Vauxhall 1 9 CDTI 150 bhp Timing Marks For Cam Belt
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- In this video I revisit the timing belt on this 1.9cdti 150 bhp engine in my Vauxhall Signum as I had previously changed the cam belt but there were no timing marks on the upper casing. I suspected it to be one tooth out as the performance was poor so I found out you need the cam and cranksaft locking tools so I use them in this video to see if the timing belt was one tooth out. This engine is fitted in many different vehicles including the Vauxhall Vectra, Zafira, Astra to name but a few.
Check out the other videos where I previously stripped this all down if you want to see the full procedure. • Vauxhall Signum Overhe...
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Martin, was the other cam locking pin for the rear camshaft? Surely both inlet and exhaust cam's need locking for optimal timing check.
The rear sprocket is the high pressure fuel pump, not a camshaft.
@@retrorestore oh I thought the 150 was a 16v?
@@bluezedd thanks for clearing that up, I think il stick to my older cars,uch easier to work on, speaking of which my mk1 zafira is due a Campbelt and waterpump after its mot in Jan
Yes it is a twin cam but it's geared inside and not from an external sprocket
Correct
Thank you for a complete explanation of how the cam locking tool works. The previous video I watched showed how to install it but failed to explain that it was spring loaded and locked into place on its own. As an American in the process of relocating to portugal I find that learning your language may be easier than Portuguese. Thanks for the comprehensive explanation.
You've actually covered some things on here that are not mentioned in other vids, nice one!
Saved me loads of grief trying to figure out why the tdc marks on the crank shaft pully didn't mean nowt or the camshaft marks seems that there an after thought by vauxhall / Opel you cannot do the job properly on some vauxhall without this tool.and thanks so much for posting the only video on yt with this tool used in detail.😁
Many thanks for posting this. I haven't changed a cambelt, for a number of years. Last one I changed was the belt, tensioner and waterpump, on an X20XEV, and before that, the V6 in my old Omega. Both, very much needed locking kits. Since then, I've either run cars with non stretch chains, or sold the car on before the belt replacement time was due. I've owned a Zafira Tourer (Zafira C) since 2015, and, now that it is very much out of warranty, I've taken to servicing it, myself. It's the 2.0 CDTi 165 version, and has a very similar belt layout, to the 1.9 CDTi 150. I'm looking forward to replacing the belt, pump, tensioners and rollers, on that one. It'll give me an excuse to add to my locking kit collection!
Nice one, good luck with it bud.
Brilliant video..i came to a crashing hault yesterday trying to get the car timed up and ready to remove the belt and waterpump. Now to spend the next 45 minutes trying to see if we have a locking kit for the car .we have so many locking kits for different motors..£10 says we haven't got the kit i need and im in for a big head ache ..once again great insightful vid
Glad it helped
Thank you Martin, about to do my 1.9 Alfa gt after a monumental belt failure, lost 12 rockers. Bought the timing kit and now thanks to you I know how to use it 👌
Nice one, Good luck bud.
That's a smart approach to check a list of items while you have it apart. Tfs Martin.
Hi Martin another good one I bet the car when you drive it feels more sprightly now I bet it will make you feel good I know it dose me when I've done something like that and it goes right for a change 👍😁
Nicely explained, Started up ok considering it’s been stood for 4 weeks, nice job 👍
The timing marks on The pulleys line up with the marks on the new timing belt. There will be 3 white lines on new belt, one line for the cam pulley second for pump pulley third for crank pulley. These are installation marks for initial fitting
Hello Martin. 👍.
A VERY good video an explanation of the tools needed .👍👍
Great job. I've done a full service on my car today, not really weather for it but needed doing! Need to do the timing belt, but it can wait until summer 😂.
Well now I know how, if I ever see one, though it’s doubtful.
Nice job and well explained.
thank you for this, i need to strip mine down to replace the crankshaft seal so this has been very helpful
Great video Martin. Thats a handy bit of kit for checking the timing. It sounds great now and should run fine.
Cheers, Jeff.
Yes, I did suspect it was 1 tooth out Jeff.
You've just saved my life, thank you so much
he who dares wins as always martin very well explained video 🔧🔧🔧🔧
Yet another top notch job Martin get the brakes sorted just in time for Christmas then enjoy the festive brake with the family you deserve it mate keep up the good work 👍 👍 👍
Great video. Thank you for a clear explanation of great info 😊
Fantastic work again Martin love ur how too vids
I was looking for a video to show the use of the tools or my 2015 Chevy Cruze Diesel 2.0 and now I found it! When the engine is a couple teeth off, the Cruze has no tach signal, and it throws a Check anti-lock brakes, and Stabilitrak warnings. the transmission also goes into limp home mode with ONLY 2nd gear. Since the computer cannot tell what RPM the motor is running, it has no way to tell the transmission when to shift. This then cascades to the Stabilitrak that modulates the throttle. Then the Anti-lock brakes are affected by the lack of Stabilitrak. All this for the lack of a relatively inexpensive tool.
Great video explaining the tools; thanks!
Good old car computers eh
@@retrorestore Yeah brother. The tachometer is driven off the fuel pump. That signal.is used for everything from transmission shift points to stabilitrack, to traction control. If it is out of ohase with the crank sensor, you get limp home mode. It should be noted that limping home refers to the car and not to the driver. Regards, Paul
The main thing is you’ve sorted it out, well done 👍
Now when do you want me to drop this Lexus gs300
3 litre 24v i have here up to you for a timing belt change
😂😂😂
Good timing using belt and braces approach with the correct tools
And you have shown you don’t need really expensive tools
Really enjoyable and interesting 🛠👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers Chris
Brilliant work as always Martin keep it up
Thank you so much, very well explained and covered all the details. I feel confident in doing mine now.
Another good episode mate.👍😎
Great video Martin the day light soon turns to night cold in the mornings as well cars as a lot of other things always need sorting in the winter glad you have sorted the problem let us know in the next video if the powers their now mate Rob
Great video! I was looking exactly for info how to use this locking tool. Explained. Your oil pan needs new gasket IMHO.
The second locking tool is for rear cam,if you put new cams in use the second tool to sync both cams
them little kits in red boxes are good value on ebay . its not like your going to use it every day
Good video Martin hopefully it will run much better now
Well explained Martin...👍
Thank you Martin thank you for teaching us
Great and usefull video. Big thx. for sharing it!
What a sad place the world would be without the knock off timing kits, the days of spending £100s on sykes special sets have gone. Nice to have the right tools for the job.
All thanks to china!!
Nice video Martin
Another Great Job Martin, well done! 👍🏻
hi mate. a good video with lots of step by step information. ta for the mention about my live stream.alos the mic works great too, i may put it on my santa list lol take care mate
Its a cracking Mic Mick, a good investment.
Brilliant video Martin and very well explained
After all the work you've done,you could probably build one of those cars from scratch !!,great video as always chef ! (That was just a joke name hope you don't mind)😀
That bottom pulley was well out. The notch on the casing doesn't line up with the pulley now so without the tool I'd have been wrong. Usually the pulley lines up with a groove somewhere but I've never had a Vauxhall.
Another good job Martin.
Superb
Hello Martin top video as always you don't fancy helping me do my mg zs 180 v6 timing belts all three of them Iam having a nightmare doing it haven't got enough hands mate it would make a great video mate
Sounds like a nightmare. Have fun lol
There is a metal plug on the engine to remove and enter a locking pin to secure the front cam
You're going to need night vision on your camera if you plan to do any more outdoors shots after 4pm Martin. lol.
Bet Sharon's pleased to get the car back!
It got dark all of a sudden Barb lol
I've done timing belt on my Alfa 159 without engine locking tool just in 8 hours,(first time doing it). Damn this tool is time savior
in my case i marked all cams before removing belt. Then tied upper cams with zip ties, after replacing belt i cut off zip ties
Did you find it fit stiff when everything back together, hand crank is easy then ear the end of the cycle it gets stiff
@@seanharris3217 belt felt tight before turning crankshaft. resistance from crankshaft rotation comes from cylinder compresion. Becouse injectors(diesel car))/spark plugs(gasoline car) were stil in cylinder sealing the volume.
@@AndriusKamarauskas mine gets stiff at the end of cycle with injectors removed, can’t hear metal on metal noice, added little forces reliefs resistance and goes back around again
@@seanharris3217 you were using timing belt locking tool before changing timing belt?
@@AndriusKamarauskas yeah after a few turns put them back on and locking tools lined up perfect, before changing rocker arms and belt the crank locking tool was a tooth or 2 out, put new parts on belt etc few rotations by hand locking tools went back on perfect all lined up
muy bueno el video
Great tutorial Martin!!
Great job 👏 thanks
another great video martin
Good work Martin 🚗🚗😀😀
Great video Martin.
Thanks for that!! Great video!!
Great vid Martin 👍
I’ve got an Alfa with the same engine just has 1 more cylinder, crank and cam were locked up with this exact tool, belt on and tensioned but when I crank it by hand it gets rather stiff that requires extra force to do the complete cycle
Good job Martin.
Should have re checked timing with locking tools & checked tension was correct after rotating engine 2 revs Martin
No need bud.
Great explanation. Thank you.
Glad you liked it
Very Good vid Murt👏👏👏🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
Merci pour cette vidéo de calage de distribution
Pas de problème merci pour ton commentaire
You really need a garage Martin.
Hello Martin, did the timing belt adjustment fix the loss of power that you've mentioned in the EGR cleaning video? I'm dealing with the same symptom with my astra 1.9cdti 150bhp feels like a 100-110bhp diesel. Thank you, keep up with the good work!
Yes, Mine is back to full power after checking with the proper cam and crank locking tools and finding it was 1 tooth out.
I've recently bought a saab 93 and have found several of these videos interesting and helpful so thankyou!!
Just out of interest have you any experience with the opcom obd2 connectors you can get of ebay? Cheers mate 👍
I do use an OBD2 reader but not Opcom i'm afraid.
Great vid matin 👊👊
Would you do a video on changing the Automatic Transmission fluid on your signum?
this a older type of the 120 ps engine, the bolt in the head fore that pin too look the camshaft its bloked on the later models , there its a " nut" on the camshaft fore hold the camshaft , when the pully must bee Removed , not fore all models ,but some whone
i didnt see you locking the diesel pump
Grazie mille mi hai risolto un bel problema
Sono contento che abbia aiutato.
Thumbs down are from people who can't afford a signum :)
How long would this take including antifreeze , for you ? Understanding would be longer for me , thanks for any reply 👍
I can't say as I film at the same time.
You wouldn't happen to have that tool kit link with any luck, please?
Sorry, can't remember.
Any ideas how I find out if my astra H 1.9 cdti is 150 or 120 bhp? Can't see it anywhere on any documents, but the area where the timing mark should be looks the same
The 120 hp engine has the oil filler on the left and the 150 hp engine has the oil filler on the right. The 120 is 8 valve and the 150 is 16 valve.
Thank you very much sir for this video, I have the same car, and now I'm not afraid anymore to do the timing belt myself. One quastion I have.... To remove Intake Mainifold (to clean it up and replace swirl flaps), do I have to be careful when I remove the fuel pump (to look for marks or loking position, something) ??? Thank you
No bud, the fuel pump doesn't have timing marks
@@retrorestore thank you very much
So what's the mark for on the crankshaft does it not line up with the cut away
Don't know bud, sorry
What kind of mileage had it done..? i scrapped my vectra estate and i think it dropped a tooth as you called it,my mechanic used some excuse to say it was uneconomical repairs,wish i had seen this video 1st..i might still be driving my 199.995 thousand mile 58 cdti vectra estate..
about 125,000 I think
@@retrorestore i think i had my monies worth out of it..£760 i paid owned nearly 4 years..loved the car..
Nice vid mart did you check the rear camshaft was in time ?
Its not a camshaft Pete, its the high pressure fuel pump
@@retrorestore hows the camshafts linked then .i presume its 16 valve ?
150hp is dohc and 120 sohc
@@ryanedwards321 thats what i thought but on the later models they were both 16v just detuned
@@ryanedwards321 that's right, this is 16 valve
Well useful to know ,great info 😅😅😅😅😅😅☕☕☕☕☕☕
U have u cams so 2 locking pins needed
It's actually a fiat engine
Hi mate, Great video. I tried doing the timing belt meself with all the locking tools & stuff but cant seem to get the timing belt on despite the tensioner pulley completely detensioned. Could you advise on how to get it on. Me car is a 1.9 cdti 150 bhp. NewTiming belt is exactly the same as the old one, Dayco brand! Tq.
New belt is exactly 100% same length and especially for this model. Tried putting it round via crank crank shaft pulley first or cam shaft or injection pulley, it just won't complete the full round,very very tight.
You need to make sure the pin on the back of the tensioner body locates in the correct hole or the belt won't go on.
@@retrorestore Thanks for d prompt reply mate. I'll try it out again today and check that tensioner. You're the best! 👍
@@retrorestore Happy Days, mate. You were spot on, it was that blithering tensioner. Cheers bruvva!
@@barrygray8356 Well done bud
Can a crankshaft sensor stop a vectra from starting
Yes it can
Thanks for your help 👍
WoW
👍
Er yes bud
Mick looks a bit like Lee without his wig......
You may want to recheck your timing. That engine is dieseling rather badly....
what a load of rubbish its running at a high idle becuase for one its flat cold and 2 its been parked a month so it will have kicked into a higher idle when the load was on the alternator ..... YT mechanics make me chuckle
@@UkCarScaene It's a joke son. Look up anti-dieseling solenoid. Martin got it....
Dont need timing tools... just cut your old timing belt in half .... LONG WAYS making sure you cut all the way threw ... remove front part of belt leaving tuther half on .. with new belt slide it on until you meet the old belt ... then cut old belt completely off and slide on new belt .... Simples ... no need for timing tools
Great idea if the old belt hasn't jumped time like Martin's did, or even worse, snapped entirely. On an engine with no timing marks, like this one, you will need something for a starting point. If a tool is available, use it and be glad somebody made one....
Did you not hear what I said in the video about the belt being one tooth out before changing it?
@@retrorestore
I did the second time I watched it ... lol
Por favor coloque legenda português Brasil
There’s two cam lockers because IT IS twin cam gaj 🤣 thanks
The second cam is geared off the first one.
@@retrorestore So how many cams is that ?
@@stufindlay3992 You only need to lock one cam as the other cam can't move as its geared of the first one.
@@retrorestore Do you these cams ever skip a tooth? Mates snapped a T belt I’m gonna try changing the rockers and belt today