Nice one , I have a faulty DMX on the way and could just be an easy fix , but if it does need a new fader , do you know where to obtain one or know of a similar potentiometer that substitutes for the DMX fader ?
Hey Paul White, I have a question regarding my oberheim DMX midi. I just got it the other day and for some reason everything works except the recording function. When I hold record and click play it stays on the “count - - 4” and doesn’t count down at all. However when I enter beats in the step sequence it retains the sounds but I can’t play them back . Any ideas of what this issue is ?
Good video ! I've got a dx and installed some of my own eproms I burnt they play sounds fine but when I start the machine up there's a high pitched squeal on a certain channel until when I hit the drum pad on that channel then it's fine, any ideas ??
J M this happens if the first two bytes on the EPROM are not the same value, or at least close. If you reprogram the first two bytes to zero, you can fix the problem. You can do this with a device programmer without erasing the chip.
I have some replacements available. They are linear taper instead of audio, but it doesn't seem to make too much difference. I don't have any of the stereo (master volume) pots, though. Drop me an email for more info.
Hi Paul - just watching & I think your usage of Deoxit Fader Grease may be wrong - seems like it isn't meant for carbon track pots/faders (though could be used on the metal parts) - Fader Lube is the stuff for carbon tracks. [I think, anyways!] Tom
From the description of FADERGREASE on Amazon: * Formulated to improve conductivity and lubricate conductive plastic and carbon compound faders * Displaces moisture and contaminants from slider contacts * Restores smooth slider action and signal quality.
@@pjwhite42 OK, it is fine for a one time thing then, still risky though. I have opened pots & some other things years ago to clean them out. I try very hard not to do that anymore as I have found the risk of breakage is very high. So I tend to regard it as an absoute last resort after all else has failed. Usually squirting F5 into the faders & sliding up and down a few times brings then back to life. Assuming you blow free dust out with CO2 first of course. I would try to find some other peace of junk gear to canabolise parts from before opening up a componant in that way, becaus it's gone wrong for me a few times in the past. Usually I can do it the one time, maybe a 2nd time but a 3rd would be really pushing it. It's not really intended to be serviced in that way, those tabs can break off very easily.
NO !! That is a common mistake. Never use WD40 as a contact cleaner. WD40 is a mechanical grease that isolates more than it conducts. And if anything, it certainly does NOT clean too, in fact it makes matters worse.
thanks !! very simple
Nice one , I have a faulty DMX on the way and could just be an easy fix , but if it does need a new fader , do you know where to obtain one or know of a similar potentiometer that substitutes for the DMX fader ?
Hi Paul. Great stuff. I was wondering if you have instruction on how to clean the rotary tuning pots?
Sorry, no.
Hey Paul White, I have a question regarding my oberheim DMX midi.
I just got it the other day and for some reason everything works except the recording function.
When I hold record and click play it stays on the “count - - 4” and doesn’t count down at all. However when I enter beats in the step sequence it retains the sounds but I can’t play them back . Any ideas of what this issue is ?
Yes veri good!!!!!
Hola como se llama el lubricante que parese grasa
Good video ! I've got a dx and installed some of my own eproms I burnt they play sounds fine but when I start the machine up there's a high pitched squeal on a certain channel until when I hit the drum pad on that channel then it's fine, any ideas ??
J M this happens if the first two bytes on the EPROM are not the same value, or at least close. If you reprogram the first two bytes to zero, you can fix the problem. You can do this with a device programmer without erasing the chip.
@@pjwhite42 thank you for the quick reply!! Appreciate you and your site !
I have some replacements available. They are linear taper instead of audio, but it doesn't seem to make too much difference. I don't have any of the stereo (master volume) pots, though. Drop me an email for more info.
Hi Paul - just watching & I think your usage of Deoxit Fader Grease may be wrong - seems like it isn't meant for carbon track pots/faders (though could be used on the metal parts) - Fader Lube is the stuff for carbon tracks. [I think, anyways!] Tom
Tom Bugs Well, it does seem to work when applied in a very thin layer. I will check out Fader lube, thanks.
From the description of FADERGREASE on Amazon: * Formulated to improve conductivity and lubricate conductive plastic and carbon compound faders * Displaces moisture and contaminants from slider contacts * Restores smooth slider action and signal quality.
Just ordered some for my older Juno 106 need to make them smooth again. Thank you
Hi there, sorry I didn't see all the products you are using for cleaning and applying....
www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-824-1L-Isopropyl-Alcohol/dp/B005DNQX3C/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=Isopropyl+Alcohol+99%25&qid=1591965805&sr=8-9#nav-top
www.mgchemicals.com/products/cleaning-products-for-electronics/cleaners/contact-cleaners/electrosolve-contact-cleaner-409b
caig.com/product/deoxit-fadergrease-dfg-213-1/
How many of these cleans can you do before breaking the tabs & thereby permanently destroying the faders? Think I'll just stick with F5 thanks.
I've never had to open a fader more than once, so I don't know..
@@pjwhite42 OK, it is fine for a one time thing then, still risky though. I have opened pots & some other things years ago to clean them out. I try very hard not to do that anymore as I have found the risk of breakage is very high. So I tend to regard it as an absoute last resort after all else has failed. Usually squirting F5 into the faders & sliding up and down a few times brings then back to life. Assuming you blow free dust out with CO2 first of course. I would try to find some other peace of junk gear to canabolise parts from before opening up a componant in that way, becaus it's gone wrong for me a few times in the past. Usually I can do it the one time, maybe a 2nd time but a 3rd would be really pushing it. It's not really intended to be serviced in that way, those tabs can break off very easily.
Why not just use Deoxit D5? I have taken some faders apart to clean them but I found most of the time just by just adding Deoxit will do the trick.
I haven't tried that. Maybe I will next time.
Can I use silicon grease?
Use only grease specifically made for faders.
Paul.como se llama esa crema ?
www.amazon.com/dp/B0015ABJA4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_XXFWR8ENCEHGBGA6RN7D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Name of the lubric?
wonder if WD-40 will do the job too?
NO !! That is a common mistake. Never use WD40 as a contact cleaner. WD40 is a mechanical grease that isolates more than it conducts. And if anything, it certainly does NOT clean too, in fact it makes matters worse.