Staying Warm in the Middle Ages: 14th Cent. Surcote and Hood
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- čas přidán 12. 03. 2022
- Staying Warm in the Middle Ages was a challenge - and maybe not helped when the nobility tried to be fashionable! A Sideless Surcote might not be a very effective winter coat, but it sure LOOKS wintery! The medieval hood is very warm and definitely one of my favourite parts of this entire medieval reenactment outfit. Making the medieval hood was inspired by my friend @OpusElenae 's Londinium Hood pattern, which is available in her ko-fi store. Check out her medieval hood tutorial on her channel as well! Excellent stuff.
I was so thrilled that the embroidery on the Londinium hood edge (inspired by medieval manuscript illuminator Anastasie) turned out as nicely as it did. I’m so happy that I can show that border off.
When I tell people I made curtains into a medieval gown, I wonder if this is the kind of medieval gown that they picture? Probably not - but I really like making curtains into medieval clothing. Just call me a 14th Century Maria Von Trapp!
Something I forgot: the belt is worn under the surcote to deter thieves from cutting your PURSE which would have been hooked to the belt. I forgot about that detail in the script.
For those of you who wanted to know, the quote on the chalkboard is the following: "“It really boils down to this: that all life is interrelated. We are all caught in an inescapable network of mutuality, tired into a single garment of destiny. Whatever affects one destiny, affects all indirectly.” ― Martin Luther King Jr.
Join my Patreon: / lizcapism
Buy me a coffee: www.ko-fi.com/lizcapism
Relevant Links:
Opus Elenae Londinium Hood Video: • I Made a Medieval Lond...
Opus Elenae Shop: ko-fi.com/opuselenae/shop
Sideless Surcote Blog Post: www.wodefordhall.com/page30.html
A La Recherche D’Anastasie Article: journals.openedition.org/crm/...
Maayankaraj Singh: / maayankraj_singh
Mayaankaraj's Atelier Shikaarbagh: www.ateliershikaarbagh.com/
My Winter Coat Remake Video: • Remaking My First Vint...
The Rest of the Medieval Kirtle Project Playlist: • Medieval Kirtle Project
Historical Winter Wear Video: • Cozy Winter Clothes fr...
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Equipment:
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Microphone: Rode Wireless Go II
Edited with Adobe Creative Suite - Jak na to + styl
![Surprising Word Origins from the Textile Arts | Kirtle Project [CC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Fpi9R-_1Hkc/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey beautiful people! I've pinned some relevant links below. They are also in the description!
Join my Patreon: www.patreon.com/lizcapism
Buy me a coffee: www.ko-fi.com/lizcapism
Relevant Links:
Opus Elenae Londinium Hood Video: czcams.com/video/WsTnprBtp8k/video.html
Opus Elenae Shop: ko-fi.com/opuselenae/shop
Sideless Surcote Blog Post: www.wodefordhall.com/page30.html
A La Recherche D’Anastasie Article: journals.openedition.org/crm/11032
Maayankaraj Singh: instagram.com/maayankraj_singh/
Mayaankaraj's Atelier Shikaarbagh: www.ateliershikaarbagh.com/
My Winter Coat Remake Video: czcams.com/video/W1Y_3yKdGuE/video.html
The Rest of the Medieval Kirtle Project Playlist: czcams.com/play/PLssGXxVbd4HOR26iZkBekWrBelRAT-_c2.html
Historical Winter Wear Video: czcams.com/video/dk9jwIYYXQY/video.html
I hope you enjoy the video!
I just love that the surcote style was called 'The Gates of Hell'. It reminds me for just how long our dress has been held responsible for the behaviour of others.
As soon as I saw the watercolour border I hoped that the embroidery wouldn't cover all of it up, it adds a touch of lightness to contrast the heavier fabrics used. Well done for being able to compromise with the inner "embroider it all!" voice too
Thanks! Along with the time consideration, I agree that the embroidery as I was doing it would have resulted in a way-too-heavy look. I am also glad I could temper my inner chaos. ☺️
I also appreciate a slower less frequent posting schedule. It's much better to know I can comfortably catch up with all my CZcams subscriptions when I get spoons to do it, rather than always being catching up or missing out on makers I really want to watch.
I signed up last week because you offered the option to pay a year at a time.... i know that right now i have the funds, but with things going up and down I couldn't be sure things would remain that way so I was happy to be able to pay a year at a time... I wish more makers could offer this option :)
I am so grateful for that thoughtfulness!
It’s a relatively new Patreon feature! I imagine it will become more popular soon. 🤞🥰
The surcote and hood are the dessert to a banquet of videos. Thank you!
I love the surcote look so much, I know it looks weird to modern eyes but I wish we saw more of them depicted.
The painted + embroidered edge on the hood is beautiful too.
Thanks!
I really love how you're creating these makes with historical figures. Thanks for all you do! When the "temptation" music started, I didn't only think "how funny" but also "I get it, hips don't lie"
I know what you mean! It cracks me up thinking about it either way. 🤣
This reminded me it's been 14 years since I made my last/only sideless surcote. I need to make a new one since I'm much better at sewing now and have access to better fabric
No otters included made me think of The Princess Beard
Absolutely Love Love Love the embroidered border!! In awe of the sheer number of buttonholes involved! A lovely Series that I will be going back to re-watch and gain inspiration for my own sewing journey. Thank you!
The buttonholes were definitely an adventure! But when you’ve got good TV and a cuddly dog, it’s not so bad. ☺️
The embroidered hood is absolutely stunning and I just might make it and wear it shamelessly next winter
I just discovered your channel - how very interesting - and now I have dozens of videos to watch.
The illuminated-manuscript-inspired border is even more meaningful given that the hood's pattern designer is a also a scribe and illuminator.
Useful tip for fur, faux or otherwise: sew it on with basting stitches, so that it can be removed and attached to other garments. Historically, expensive trim was often handled this way to allow for cleaning and reuse.
Great tip! Thanks so much.
Such a beautiful result, worthy of all that effort and thought. Your whole project now bears 'an infinity of traces', left by friends and colleagues and peers. How lovely that is!
The hood and surcoat came out beautifully! I love the decorative edge of the hood!!
Great work and also great messages throughout the video! I’m grateful Yt recommended your channel!
The outfit came together wonderfully. The surcote material is so very rich looking. Gorgeous! I bought Opus Elenae's hood pattern and cut it out. Then I took a deep breath and dove into stitching the gores. I got one done! It looks wonderful. Only three more to go. 😁 The hand sewing of it kept me calm while attempting to teach my son Gr. 12 math. Thanks for letting us take this journey with you. Take care.
The outfit came together wonderfully. The surcote material is wonderfully rich looking. Gorgeous! I'm in the middle of the Londinium Hood pattern, it's cut out and my first gore done. Then other things had to get done first (Comic Expo is coming up) I shall return to it soon. Thanks again, Liz.
I love that vine stitch top stitching! What a lovely way to accomplish a necessary task! :)
I’m obsessed with that particular stitch! It’s so tiny and so dainty!
I so love your humour!
😊
Very lovely! Love the embroidery/painting!
Thanks!
Love the faux fur tip! Vegan and sustainable historical costuming has been one of my main challenges, especially because I don't usually find large textiles for sale second hand, and it's too hot for even secondhand/recycled poly fabrics. I saw something once about a company using denim to make faux fur and saw something about doing it with a pet brush. It's my plan for a sorta medieval/historybounding costume cape....if I ever finish the embroidery...
Stunning material!
Thanks! I’m so happy I finally found a project worthy of those past two panels.
Delightful video! I'm so glad my card made it to you. I made a sideless surcote almost a decade ago with a similar type of fabric. I followed someone's pattern/tutorial but they were obviously significantly taller than my 5'1" stature which meant that the armscyes cut nearly halfway down my thighs. I hadn't thought to adjust the measurements there when I adjusted the hem length. The surcote still lives in my fabric stash and will one day be remade into something. Perhaps it is time to once again attempt to make another one!
What a lovely video, surcote and thank you for the beautiful quotations!
Thanks for watching!
This whole series is amazing !
Chaos Machine made me snort laugh
Ah yes - it's my natural state. I'm so glad you enjoyed it!
I loved how this turned out and the quotes at the end
Thanks!
Beautiful work, as always. Have I ever mentioned that I really love your research process.
I'm presently stumbling my way through the leathercraft rabbit hole I fell into over the holidays. As per usual, it's both easier and harder than it looks. My practice pieces are creating the most complex, over designed, over built tool rolls I can come up with. Because the God Kids need to be infected, I mean exposed, to yet another thing to do with their hands. And a nice tool roll gets you most of the way through a conversation of 'how' to make an object.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
So happy you've found a new thing. I love finding new hobbies! ☺
@@LizCapism New mountain to climb, and all that. Plus I'm going to need belts. Because the sewing machine is giving me puppy eyes. And I'm going to need more skirts and pants.
Then I can figure out an Edwardian bust block. Speaking of mountains to climb...
I love historical and traditional fashion and I'm trying to slowly transition my wardrobe to have as much of an old ancient vibe as possible, and figuring out what to wear in the winter is my biggest struggle. I love winter, but I also hate it because I don't have appropriate clothes in the style I want to survive the cold. It's pricey as it is, finding good winter boots (don't even have to be historically accurate as long as they "feel" right and can keep me warm in the snow) that also aren't going to leave me completely broken, I find it near impossible. Inability to find pragmatic and good looking clothes warm enough for Polish kind of winter leaves me in despair lol. Watching videos like this one (which is very educational and interesting!) makes me want to get into sewing more and more (also ethics of fur and leather and other animal parts on my clothes... yeah, as a vegan it hits home)
It’s a process! It took my years to get to where I’m at and I still have to put thought into it, especially in the winter time!
And in my experience sometimes i just hafta suck it up with more “modern-y” things.
I think there’s a real need for warmer Historybounding stuff, so that’ll definitely go on my list of potential future videos!
Ok, I had to laugh when you made a disclaimer that "Otter wax' did not include otters. (Good disclaimer, btw! It's good to know!) It reminded me that I was under a similar impression with the 'moleskin' notebooks. A little horrified that someone would be killing poor moles for their skins and making notebook (covers, I assumed) out of them. Then I actually saw the word printed. . .and realized it was a BRAND name - and most likely NOT made from moles. Phew.
Love your final outfit. Though you did not mention how it faired in what looks like beautiful, but chilly winter weather. It seems to me that even for the medieval times, there should have been another layer (for wearing outdoors in the dead of winter) and perhaps a cloak as well. I do not see only one layer on the arms and sides (brr!) being enough in the cold. Of course, this is coming from someone living in Canada, after a rather up and down winter - where the deep-freezes we hit were rather brutal and the wind chill is a serious thing. Even on the warmer days where it's barely below freezing, you can get winds with a wind chill far below what the thermometer says and that counts more than the actual temperature. So it's a little hard to wrap my head around how 'less' clothing would fair. These clothes look like you're asking for frostbite. Or - was this only worn like this in milder climates?(also a thing! lol)
I was in my family’s backyard to avoid the frostbite scenario, because as a fellow Canadian I am cautious of the cold. It was cold, but mostly on my hands, which were basically the only uncovered part of me. Don’t get me wrong, this isn’t a good outfit for long-term outdoor jaunts, but I’m wearing a linen shift, a wool dress lined with another linen layer, and though the surcote doesn’t cover my arms, it is thick woven silk lined with cotton. So my body had 5 thin layers over it! And the air between those layers did a pretty good job of insulating me. So arms were slightly cold, uncovered hands were very cold, but my core was not suffering!
I’m in Calgary in the midst of the up/down weather cycle and I feel you! Thanks for watching. ❤️🥰
@@LizCapism Oh. Well, hey, neighbour!! You know EXACTLY the weather that's got my head messed up then. lol I'm just south of Calgary in one of it's bedroom communities. (Won't say which one, cause. . .you know, public conversation and all.) So - yeah.
Thanks for getting back to me on that! That answers the question. So, technically - if your core was protected, you could run from building to building like that without worrying about getting a chill, but no walks in the woods. That makes sense! It is surprising to learn how these layers work together, honestly. Moreso against weather like ours. :)
The completed outfit is beautiful! I read the article you linked all the way through - absolutely fascinating!
Thank you for being such a thorough researcher.
I'm so glad!
Thank YOU for appreciating it! I love doing research and it makes everything so much more interesting for me. :D
@@LizCapism Me too!
Loved the quote....tied to thin sheets of paper 💙💙💙💙 may have to see if my library has the gentleman in question. The ensemble turned out so well. Such nice pattern placement. That silk has died and gone to fabric heaven.....it must be feeling that it has fulfilled its destiny beautifully!
And I wonder if winter surcoats had a sneaky pocket inside where you could warm your hands? Like wearing a giant muff!
If you want a good beginning to Carlo Rovelli, I HIGHLY recommend 7 Brief Lessons on Physics. It’s short, wonderfully written, and very educational. Bonus points if you can get the audiobook from your library, because the author reads it himself and he has a very soothing Italian accent.
@@LizCapism ooh that sounds lovely. I love it when Luca is on the lives for Foundation Revealed because I have his lovely accent in my head for a couple of days aferwards! I did find the book that the quote you used comes from (wonderful search engines these days!) and decided to search my library for a copy only to find that when I saw a photo of the book I recognised it! I bought it last year because the cover was so beautiful and it sounded interesting - I did start it but it's still on my pile of books to read. Definitely will go back to it now.
That is a magical coincidence! I hope you enjoy it. 😁
Dang it, did you HAVE to remind me that I have a Gates of Hell waiting to be made. Fortunately, I don't have the fabric for it-- which isn't true. I have 15 yards of fabric that starts off white and ombres to black. I bought it last century and still have no idea how to lay out my kirtle and Gates to best display the ombre effect of the fabric. 😠 ah, the questions garments pose.
I feel like it's my part-time job to remind folks about garments in their UFO pile or "to-do" list...
@@LizCapism Welp, job well done!
Ah, so glad that you've uploaded! Really enjoying your videos, so thanks!☺️ The flower border you made looks beautiful.
Thanks so much!
Gorgeous!!! But did it keep you warm??
It was cold, but I was mostly cold in my hands, which were uncovered. I wasn’t WARM by any means, but layers comprising a shift, linen lining, wool kirtle, cotton lining, and surcote aren’t nuthin’!
Thinking too much but: If Lady Justice is depicted wearing an entirely unnecessary piece of clothing, perhaps it could represent a part of Justice not all would consider important; perhaps mercy or charity?
OR it was fashionable... whatever.
I’m having difficulties finding the measurements. Is there some formula I’m really bad at sawing, but this look about step above my level, but the measurements have to be correct. I don’t want to waste a big piece of fabric. Can you help?