I personally would've used a 2.1mm x 5.5mm barrel jack to use a ZX Spectrum or a Sega Mega Drive power supply, having said that; well done on the usb power mod cheers.
This is inspiring, thank you! We have inherited one of these, a collection of games, and two joysticks :) I’ve never attempted to power it on. Particularly it was interesting to see the UV-cured solder mask repair, and the raised capacitance (I have one of those component testers too). I loved your technical analysis of the main ICs (the Intel chipset, so to speak!) - saved me from looking it up! :) I’ll do a couple of things a little differently; I‘ll leave the old caps in there, as the pre-1990s caps seem to live a long time without leaking, although I’ll probably remove them to test that they are near original values. There are like a few solder joints that I’ll want to resolder - at I’ll use a rust converter solution on the metal shielding - the inorganic type, i.e. acid that converts iron oxide to iron phosphate - so that no wire brushing will be needed. The composite video and audio mod is a great idea and I like the non-invasive way you did that, I’ll do the same but I guess I’ll have to use some transistors/resistors and stripboard, as I’m on the other side of the world - posting a tiny PCB would double the value and take too long :) Interesting about the power supply noise, I’ll probably persist with the original power supply method unless those regulators are faulty. Well done on your video, kudos to you for taking the time to document everything (useful for us to know how one of these comes apart!) and I’d love to see what software you get running on this :) I understand it possibly has computer functions too (is there a BASIC for it?) Thanks again!
Thank you for watching the video Alex, I really appreciate it and it is great to hear you have inherited a G7000 too with lots of games which I'm sure you'll have great fun with. With it being 2023, it's the perfect time to now power it on ;-) Please keep us updated on which games you do plan on playing on it. Regarding the old capacitors, while it was not covered in the video which I wish now it was, each of the caps did have high values, especially the one near the video and output section which also had double the cap rating and 5% voltage drop. The composite mod can be easily made with a breadboard. I have provided a link for you with all the information on how you can do this too, as you mentioned is located on the other side of the world, I have provided an NTSC version: assemblergames.org/viewtopic.php?t=4279 Regarding the solder joints you mentioned, I will look into resoldering them soon. Thank you for spotting this. :) From the information I've gathered the G7000 uses Assembly language. Thank you so much for watching the video and I really appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy New Year to you.
So ,the old capacitors they look fine on you board ,the one I have they look older ,they are not that nicely covered they look like straight up bullets ! It was manufactured in France .
Hi. Can I ask, with that composite mod, how did you find the brightness? Many people have said that the single transistor circuit is too low volage and doesn't produce a bright enough signal. Most of the mod boards I've seen, use two transistors.
Congratulations you did an exceptional job!
I've been having one for 40 years and it still works perfectly without doing anything about it
Subbed! The editing and camera work is top-notch! Great soldering footage!
Thank you for watching and the sub, I really appreciate it.
Great job Jake and well done on getting it all done before the end of the year :-)
Thank you Jamie, it was tough challenge to get it all done by the end of the year. Thank you for watching the video, and Happy new Year. :-)
What a great video! I always wondered what components powered that game console.
What an amazing labor of love!
I personally would've used a 2.1mm x 5.5mm barrel jack to use a ZX Spectrum or a Sega Mega Drive power supply, having said that; well done on the usb power mod cheers.
happy new year, and great video
Thank you for watching it, appreciate it and Happy New Year to you too.
You should get some liquid flux and flux your braid before de-soldering. It will make the solder flow into the wick much better.
I never understand the use of wick. A pump is so much easier.
Wow, great job 👏
Thank you, appreciate it :-)
Nice Job👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Excellent job, I had one of these back in the day. You need to get your hands on the chess module (C7010)😉
Brilliant 👍
Thanks, good video 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you, appreciate it. :-)
This is inspiring, thank you!
We have inherited one of these, a collection of games, and two joysticks :) I’ve never attempted to power it on.
Particularly it was interesting to see the UV-cured solder mask repair, and the raised capacitance (I have one of those component testers too).
I loved your technical analysis of the main ICs (the Intel chipset, so to speak!) - saved me from looking it up! :)
I’ll do a couple of things a little differently; I‘ll leave the old caps in there, as the pre-1990s caps seem to live a long time without leaking, although I’ll probably remove them to test that they are near original values.
There are like a few solder joints that I’ll want to resolder - at
I’ll use a rust converter solution on the metal shielding - the inorganic type, i.e. acid that converts iron oxide to iron phosphate - so that no wire brushing will be needed.
The composite video and audio mod is a great idea and I like the non-invasive way you did that, I’ll do the same but I guess I’ll have to use some transistors/resistors and stripboard, as I’m on the other side of the world - posting a tiny PCB would double the value and take too long :)
Interesting about the power supply noise, I’ll probably persist with the original power supply method unless those regulators are faulty.
Well done on your video, kudos to you for taking the time to document everything (useful for us to know how one of these comes apart!) and I’d love to see what software you get running on this :) I understand it possibly has computer functions too (is there a BASIC for it?)
Thanks again!
The nearby solder joints I’d resolder were at 10:52 in the video - can’t seem to edit my comment to include that vital info, LOL :)
Thank you for watching the video Alex, I really appreciate it and it is great to hear you have inherited a G7000 too with lots of games which I'm sure you'll have great fun with. With it being 2023, it's the perfect time to now power it on ;-) Please keep us updated on which games you do plan on playing on it.
Regarding the old capacitors, while it was not covered in the video which I wish now it was, each of the caps did have high values, especially the one near the video and output section which also had double the cap rating and 5% voltage drop.
The composite mod can be easily made with a breadboard. I have provided a link for you with all the information on how you can do this too, as you mentioned is located on the other side of the world, I have provided an NTSC version: assemblergames.org/viewtopic.php?t=4279
Regarding the solder joints you mentioned, I will look into resoldering them soon. Thank you for spotting this. :)
From the information I've gathered the G7000 uses Assembly language.
Thank you so much for watching the video and I really appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy New Year to you.
I'm afraid to power mine ,afraid it can fry something !
Thank you!
Thank you for watching it. :-)
So ,the old capacitors they look fine on you board ,the one I have they look older ,they are not that nicely covered they look like straight up bullets ! It was manufactured in France .
Hi. Can I ask, with that composite mod, how did you find the brightness? Many people have said that the single transistor circuit is too low volage and doesn't produce a bright enough signal. Most of the mod boards I've seen, use two transistors.
A game console on a PS/2 keyboard controller, how quaint.