SIMPLE Waste Oil Burner guide - by VOGMAN
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- čas přidán 4. 10. 2015
- SIMPLE Waste Oil Burner guide built for nothing from spare parts. Want a really simple waste oil burner? Want to power a home furnace or foundry on recycled fuel? No complex parts or compressors...
The sound quality on this video isn't great. I've added an improved version on Rumble here
▶ bit.ly/3UZOPaF
Here I'm talking about using waste vegetable oil - not in my car as I normally do - but in a waste oil burner. I use this one to melt soda cans recycling the aluminium for use on other projects.
There's lots of videos on this subject but I found most of these too complex or lacking detail. This oil burner is very simple. There's no moving parts and no specific dimensions. So it's an easy DIY construction for anyone out there with a few spare plumbing parts. But it works very well!
If you want to know how to build a SIMPLE and effective waste oil burner then please watch, and if you’ve got any questions, then drop me a line. I’m happy to try and help.
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Helpful links :
Mini Foundry by King of Random - • How To Make The Mini M...
Oil Burner - a great Aussie bloke with a gift for oil burning - / @glumpy10
Further to feedback received (in the comments below) I made a significant improvement to this burner. You can you this here : • Waste Oil Burner - Imp...
You can also find more details and updates on my website:
vegoilguy.co.uk/oil_burner.php
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I have watched many of your videos and learned a lot. Thank you. I have found through trial and error that a sandblast gun with no modification works great. Just compress the trigger with a stainless tiewrap and have a regulator on the air, then connect the waste oil to the siphon of the gun. Very easy.
At last ! A clear succinct description of how it's done. Fed up with collecting enough wood to fire my 3 cu ft home-made kiln so will experiment with your system. Thank you
Many thanks : )
You will need to tinker... it's a bit fiddly at first but persevere and remember it is possible. Just get your kiln hot first then carefully adjust the oil / air flow... NOT TOO MUCH OIL... that's a common mistake. Think dribble. Good luck!
Thanks man. As like you, I went through the plaster/perlite/sand/hair dryer/charcoal ordeal.
I've melted AL, CU and brass with it. I use petrobond for casting. But.. dude.. so much coal used.
Now I got a propane tank for foundry, propane tank for waste oil holding, kaso-lite 30, kaowool for outside of that and this TruePower little blower ($30ish) off of amazon with variable speeds.
I will do your method but just drill in the back of the wood for air.
Really great design. I have built siphon nozzles and probably every other design i could find on the net. After A LOT of wasted money one just comes to realize that simplicity is the key to ones success. Thumbs up.
+Reegan Macdougall
Hi Reegan. Thanks for the kind comments. It REALLY is that simple. Just make sure your blower has a bit of guts (something like an old vacuum cleaner is perfect) and do check out the IMPROVEMENT video that followed this one as the additional airflow makes a fantastic difference. I really believe most of "us types" have these kind of bits knocking about which keeps costs to an absolute minimum - and by "us type", I mean guys that like to have a go at building stuff like this ; )
Thanks for the tips. I still haven't decided wether or not to give a foundry a try, but I definitely like the idea. I've been recycling for decades, and have often thought that I might be able to make better use of the resources that I accumulate. How do you handle neighbors that may be highly sensitive to sounds and smells that come along with this?
Hi Ron. Tolerant neighbours are a must.
There's precious little smell, but foundries are quite noisy.
Excellent video. This is a simple, but efficient machine. Well done!
Many thanks!
well done on the video, answered a lot of my questions
consequently I made sure to subscribe
That's very kind. Thanks.
Thank you for this very informative video. Excellent!
Thanks David : )
The best presentation ever.
Very kind Andy, thanks 😁
great design, nice and simple ill make one
Very nice. Your channel is a gold mine of info. Thank you for sharing and been down to earth. I have seen so many channels get too big and act like a god blocking comments & people it's good to see a few good channels around like this one still. Take care be Safe.
I review every comment individually and I do delete offensive or downright stupid comments purely to keep the site as family friendly as it I can. Genuine comments are always welcomed and appreciated. So thank you 😁
great inspiration
factastic video. you have no idea how much you helped
Pleased to hear it. Thanks : )
Here's an idea:
Get two tubes and join them together at 45°, now, the horizontal tube is for air, do the same with it like you did in this video. The angled tube is for fuel intake. Get a backpack pump sprayer (used in gardening) and center the nozzle end inside the angled tube. You can control the air intake just like in this video and you control fuel intake by pressing the trigger more or less. You can use hose clamps to lock the trigger or use a sprayer with a built in trigger lock.
As for pumping, you can pump manually or get an electric sprayer.
As for ignition you can turn the fuel on just a bit and air just a bit and either ignite it with a BBQ lighter or diesel glow plug, if that doesn't work you can ignite it with propane blowtorch and then give it more throttle.
brilliant, I'm going to make one
Thank you for replying.
Happy to help.
Excellent. Very clarificatory for someone who - like me - is considering building a small furnace and weighing up the options. Great clear presentation too. And I live near a chippie that uses veggie oil :-) Cheers!
Hi Gary, I'm pleased to help.
A lot of us tinker to begin with and I think that's the best way. A simple plaster foundry like the one described by Grant Thompson (King Of Random) is very cheap and easy to make. It won't last long but it will give you a chance to try your hand.
Similarly this burner can be put together with bits of scrap - mine certainly was. And if you have access to free waste veg oil, and oil burner will save you fuel expense and recycle and waste product. Nice one.
Try your hand at lost foam casting - it's amazing the things you can make. I've made clamps, pulleys, gears and sprockets. All from throw-away metals.
If you find the hobby is for you, you still don't have to break the bank. There's lots of options.
Right know I'm just finishing off my electric foundry which I'll be sharing on YT soon.
Good luck. Enjoy : )
Great ideas and advice. Much appreciated.The lost foam method has great potential, from what you say - and maybe quicker/easier than traditional casting from patterns...?
I have seen some of Grant's videos; very good indeed, and the guy has style! However, I'll probably go a wee bit more robust from the outset once I get going. Will continue to check in on your channel as I seek the right solution.
Thank you Sir!
Thanks Gary. Glad I could help.
If robust but still easy and fairly affordable is what you're looking for, have a look at my Refractory Foundry here - czcams.com/video/n42t3M1fOyY/video.html. It's just a matter of mixing with water but the results are brilliant. Just two points for this, 1. build to the size of the biggest crucible you'll use and 2. the foundry WILL need insulating, though again this can be done cheaply with plaster - czcams.com/video/T1Mxg4EVh98/video.html
As for lost foam, have a look at these two videos of mine. I talk about different types of foam, cutting, shaping, etc. I'm making a sprocket, but obviously you could apply the techniques to anything - czcams.com/video/dNPYkTuPmEw/video.html -
czcams.com/video/HwzUutlb204/video.html : )
Do let me know how you get on. It's great to hear from fellow enthusiasts.
Thanks again - looking forward to looking at these videos.
I like the fact that you give credit to the people who gave you the ideas :D
Thanks Neil. It's only right to give credit where it's due. I like to say who inspires me... that way others might take a look and be inspired too : )
Best wishes
Geoff
I agree. It's a form of honesty and transparency that is all too rare these days.
Only confident people have no problem in giving credit to others. Well done.
So easy to make with just junk laying around. Just starting out meself but this channels great and had plenty of good info off it.
Many thanks. And good luck with your channel : )
Very high quality video, thankyou (:
Happy to help. Many thanks.
And with a name like that, I hope you've looked at my Minecraft Channel. It's new but I'm enjoying it.
czcams.com/play/UUwhuuI_QUmcQO4DbzpTiwSg.html
i'l have a look
I know this is old, but I love this video. Simple, straight forward and clear. Thank you so much for that and your time putting it up for us. One question - does the length of the pipe matter? Could it be several inches longer to get the copper pipes away from the heat of the burner. I think the lighting actually happens near the end of the large burner tube, correct?
I'll be honest, I just went with what I had : )
In an ideal world the oil becomes atomised. That's not possible with this level of technology, but it does allow the oil to spit in tiny droplets. I think if the pipe were too long, these droplets would regroup and puddle, spoiling the effect.
This is very much a premise. The idea works as I've proven. Countless others have had success and yet there's no specific dimensions, which was my goal. But I think with careful trials, it could be perfected.
Your awesome man,thanks.
Thanks Gary : )
Im going to build one and melt some metal
Thanks for showing this, very easy to follow! With regarding to casting, do you have an idea about the temperature that can be achieved on veg/mineral oils? I am interested in casting Bronze specifically, that would need some 900 - 1000°C. I have so far used the King of Random's setup but with a different refractory that seems to last a bit more, and with lumpwood charcoal it's melting steel. But long term the coal is quite dirty, leaving a sticky coat of ash all over the place, so I am looking into alternatives.. Your burner is well thought out, very nice.
Thanks for the kind words : )
I haven't got an exact means of checking the temperature, but I have melted copper with my oil burner, so you should be good for bronze. The important thing is to make sure your foundry is well insulated. That way it can accumulate heat and melt metals more effectively.
I used Plaster to cheap insulate the OUTSIDE of my foundry with excellent results. Have a look - czcams.com/video/T1Mxg4EVh98/video.html&lc=UgybgOPg0zCVEYwmKI54AaABAg
If you put venturi around the end of the air inlet pipe at the narrow end you could increase the airflow for the atomization and therefore the overall power of the burner if you wished
I think i will build this design at some point. I just think that i will modify it to being able to use propane with it. I do not know how it will go but it is cheaper to heat it up instead of coal...
Hi Geoff I'm making a foundry to melt copper and aluminium what is the best refractory cement to buy and where can I get it cheaply
Brilliant !
Thanks Dan : )
@@vogman I was going to faff about using propane
There's nothing wrong with wrong. It's the easiest way to go. Probably hotter and certainly controllable, but costly over time. But if you have access to waste oil, and oil burner is free energy : )
@@vogman I'm definitely gonna use veg oil haven't got the money for much propane as longs it melts copper
As long as it's well insulated, you'll melt copper. And for cheap insulation, look at my Get Plastered video : )
Hi. I am wondering if you can mix WMO with WVO to get more fuel. I have a fair bit of each but am thinking of combining them.
the mixture you packed the pipe with finishing plaster and mortar I believe do you think that material could withstand being used as a mold for casting aluminum? I make steel molds now but I am researching other methods and materials.
I don't think so but I could be wrong. I haven't tested it.
However I'm in the process of testing various concoctions for just the purpose you describe. As and when I have a success, I will share them via video : )
could you do a video detailing how you attached the 90°elbow and now the tee to the steel pipe, I went to my local hardware depot, described what I needed and they didn't know what it was. thanks your videos are awesome and helpful.
+Richard Wheatley
Hi Richard. Sorry for the confusion this has caused you... the truth is the copper fittings are NOT attached to the steel.
You'll note there's a wooden plug at one end of the steel pipe and this is glued in place. Onto this I screwed an ordinary pipe clip to hold the copper piping. The tee enters the steel through a nicely cut hole so its the snugness of this fit and the gripping action of the pipe clip that hold the copper pipe in place.
It's NOT strictly necessary for these to be permanently fixed (it might come in handy that they don't). One just needs to rest on the other. If the clip doesn't hold for you, a couple of cable clips or even duct tape will be fine. From my experience the steel pipe (as it's on the outside) doesn't get that hot.
I hope this has cleared things up for you. If you have any more questions, please do come back to me.
Best wishes,
Geoff
+Geoff VegOilGuy yes it does, thank you.
you know you could have an air gap between the oil delivery pipes and the burner pipes, this will prevent heat being conducted to the oil hoses
Interesting and original design for a burner. Well done!
I think Roberto is correct in that having the back of the tube open would allow secondary air in to the furnace and allow more oil to be burned and in turn heat.
You could also upscale the air inlet to say 1" and put a reversed vacuum cleaner behind the thing but then you'd be into the sort of silly outputs I do so best stick to something sensible and practical! :0)
Thanks for the mention, much appreciated.
+Oil Burner Wow! Compliments from the Oil Burner guru!!!
Many thanks. And I'm sure Roberto is pleased by your comments.
This little unit has done me proud for a while, though so far I've only been melting aluminium. I am tempted to scale up a little and maybe produce something closer to one of your machines. The problem there is that I might melt the concrete in the foundry ; )
But genuinely, kind words from an expert are very much appreciated. Keep up the good work and, of course, those fantastic safety tips.
+Oil Burner I just watched the 'improved version' and saw how much better it works now with the suggested airflow change. That sort of interaction is just fantastic. Very impressed. I am also a big Oil Burner fan. I plan to build one and post it before too long.
Geoff, In the improved version, would it make any difference if the small vacuum was closer, with a shorter hose? Would it provide better pressure if it did not have to push air all the way down the long hose before entering the burner? I know it is plastic, but it could be shielded, right?
Thanks to all. I spend hours every day learning and searching for useful info and talented people. Your work is appreciated.
Geoff, perhaps a video focusing more on aluminium (nod) , sources and processing?
Subscribed and liked .
+Zed Showsyouhow Hi Zed,
Thanks for Liking and Subscribing. That helps a lot!
I'll never deny that Oil Burner was my inspiration for building an Oil Burner. He and I share the same "keep it simple" philosophy I think. The more things there are to go wrong, the more likely they will...
I'm also a big fan of interaction. Swapping ideas and getting tips from like minded folks helps us all in the end!
The blower... I had the same idea about shortening the length. In theory, yes shorter would be better. But in honesty right now I don't want to change a thing. It works GREAT. So much heat.
I originally built my furnace to Grant Thompson spec (czcams.com/video/hHD10DjxM1g/video.html). The foundry is great (though I'm moving away from Plaster of Paris - too crumbly) but charcoal is a nightmare. By the time the crucial is hot enough to melt aluminium, you've run out of charcoal. What a pain.
I was searching for alternative ways to heat the foundry when I came across Oil Burner. I thought, "It can't be that easy," but it was! Hence the video and the nod to the guru who inspired it.
Now I get constant high temperature for as long as I need it. Last weekend I melted about 300 cans in a hour and reckon I only used 1 litre of WVO - and that was free. I'm delighted.
One tip I'll give you is this... don't expect instant flame. You need that small charcoal fire to get the furnace hot. Then introduce the oil and even then don't expect great things. But wait and listen (don't look, you'll loose your eyebrows). In about five to ten minutes it's intense heat. My crucial never glowed so hot with charcoal. If you have access to waste oil, it's well worth building one of these fabulous tools.
+Geoff at VegOilCar
Sorry Zed - also meant to say, when you've built your burner and uploaded your video give me a shout. Love to see your work.
+Geoff at VegOilCar Thanks for the tip. I hope to get my channel up and running soon. I will let you know when it is ready. I want to have several vids to start it off. I frequently find a great vid and then go looking for more only to find the channel only has one....
Hi Sir,
I am going to use your set up on my mushroom 8hr sterilization using steel drum, can a blower withstand an 8hr process?
usual restriction of a blower is only 30mins according to their specs on an on-line store.
Can a small air pump (from aquarium) about 400L of air/Hr can do the job? or the air pressure is to small to create a mist?
Hi Waye, thanks for your comments.
I'll check and come back to you on the wattage of the blower, but don't think you've got to have the exact same as me. If anything my grass blower is too powerful.
You're right about the time restraints though. I often use my blower for 2 or 3 hours without really taking any notice, but prolonged use can lead to overheating and burned out brushes (bushes - whichever term you prefer).
From my experience with aquarium air pumps, they are very weak and wouldn't be powerful enough to push the oil through the air.
I think in your position I'd probably go down the DIY route. If you can source a good mag motor (brushless / ECM), then brushes are not an issue and you can always adjust the casing and venting to help with over-heating. This could theoretically produce a motor that could run for days, never mind hours. Couple this to the fan blades of a cheap brushed model, reduce the ducting size down and you could have a winner.
I hope this helps. Let me know how you get on.
Best wishes,
Geoff
Sir, how far away is the oil tube from the air tube? I Like what you are doing keep up the good work.
Hi Gilbert. Size doesn't really matter too much my friend, it's all about working with what you've got, but if you look again at the video, I'd estimate the steel tube to be around 12 inches (30 centimetres) long. Inside the tube the oil trickles down JUST IN FRONT of the air. So it's not a measured gap... nothing so scientific : )
The idea is for the air to be forceful enough to "spit" the oil out. I dare say there is an optimum distance, but this would depend on so many factors that I couldn't measure them with what I have to hand. So my advice is don't worry too much about it, give it a go and feel free to adjust any way you like. You may well improve on things - in which case do let me know.
Hope this helps.
Geoff
how many inches were the pipes you used want to melt some magnesium wich melts at about 1,202°F should i use different mortor ratio or some other compound
Really nice build . Thanks for the info. I would like to build 1 outside & have it vent heat into my shop . Any ideas on that ? Thanks
I think you'd be right to do all the burning outside. I'm not sure of any off-gases involved but as a general rule it's good practise to ensure you have VERY good ventilation around fire (it's pointless being warm if you're dead from carbon monoxide poisoning). In the UK we used to heat our water using Indirect Copper tanks like this one...
www.tdlonline.co.uk/images/Telford%20Copper%20Cylinders/Indirect.jpg
The idea is the copper coil is filled with water from a sealed system that gets heated by burners (gas or oil say) and this in turn heats the water in the main tank... or we use radiators which are essentially this, hollow, metal tanks.
If you could arrange your Oil Burner to heat a similar coil and pump water through that coil into your workshop, circulating through a radiator, then I could see this working for you. The water inside the pipe should prevent them from ever heating to melting point and that's a hard thing to achieve anyway, so it should work.
This is in essence a basic central heating system with the boiler being the Burner / Coil. This image might help...
www.gascentralheatinguk.com/images/twopipe.jpg
The feed tank (top of the image) is also an expansion tank, which would be indoors. This creates the 'sealed' system that ensures there's always water in the coil.
Hope this helps.
Best wishes
Geoff
Thanks for the quick reply , Would i have to put a pump in line or could i just let it cycle itself through ? Thanks again
In theory it should circulate itself but personally I think a pump would work better.
Let me know how you get on. It sounds an interesting project.
How clean does the oil have to be, and how do you clean it? Dou you just simply filter it?
Thanks
For a burner like this, as long as it's been filtered and it flows nicely, it should be fine : )
That sounds very much like "Oil Burner´s" latest burner but in midget size, except for the use of the blower instead of compressed air. Very interesting indeed. Just one question: why do you plug up the back of the Steel pipe, would it not help (venturi effect) to add more air into the furnace if you left it open?. Thanks for the idea.
+Roberto .Cavanagh Hi Robert, thanks for the comments. 'Oil Burner' is very much the man... I can't compete with his knowledge or experience and wouldn't even try. That's why I mention him in my video.
As you say, his latest stuff involves compressors and pressurised tanks I think, equipment I haven't got. That's why my burner's smaller and very low tech, but it does what I need it to. If anything, my attempt is closer to his original gravity fed exhaust-pipe burner (my inspiration), but yes much smaller.
I like your comment about the back plug and I think you may be right. I might experiment with that... to be honest it's only there to support the central pipe - it doesn't do any other job.
Next time I'm casting, I'll add a few holes next to the oil feed point and see if this helps draw in air. If there's an improvement I'll be sure to add a note on the video and description - and give you credit for the idea ; )
Thanks again.
Could I tapper down the bigger pipe so it would fit in my furnace I already built or would that mess up the air flow?
+Stiggy's Nerd Cave
Hi Stiggy, thanks for your question.
I guess that would depend on how big the pipe was to begin with. I'd be more tempted to increase the hole in your furnace.
It's not so much the air flow, it's more the fact that you'd be condensing down the oil. You see, the oil doesn't want to burn. To make it burn you have to vaporise it. You do this with the fast air and dribbling oil combo. This then SPRAYS the oil into the hot furnace where it can more easily vaporise and burn. If instead you narrow the pipe after the air / oil mix, you stand a chance of concentrating the oil again and reducing the spray effect, making it harder to burn.
So again, I guess it's down to the size of the pipe but, ultimately, I do think you'd be spoiling the effect.
I will say I'm no expert... you might want to check with "Oil Burner" ( czcams.com/channels/EfdKGemqGDvpn2hSuJl2Nw.html) who's made loads of these things (this is my first burner).
I hope this helps.
What would be the hourly oil consumption rate for this flame ?
what about using an old carburetor from a lawn mower or any other small motor? i imagine this would work even better and is propably also free or at least cheap to have
It might well work : )
I work in a restaurant kitchen, so I have access to unlimited waste oil and know how much energy it holds gr8 farting around burning bits of the stuff when it is "dried."
I am itching to build a furnace and was set on charcoal, but I just may have to go with this.
Vlad, there's 4 mains ways I can think of, electric, gas, charcoal and waste oil. They've all got pros and cons but with the exception of waste oil, they all cost money and are largely fossil fuel related. If you have access to kitchen oil, you've got a truly green and potent fuel source my friend. You'll find this burner a little tricky to start up (read the comments below the video) but once you've nailed it, you'll bless its simplicity and effectiveness : )
Hey great work to burn waste oil bit one thing i want to know that can we use rhis burner for cooking .
Well cooking oil is used every day in cooking, and flame pretty much kills harmful bacteria etc, so personally I can't see a reason why it couldn't be used. I've never tried it though...
@@vogman make a try i want to see how well it can be very great substitute ;)
Maybe a air preheater could be cool, like, make the air tube pass inside the burner or around the wall to heat the air
This is quite fascinating & reminds me why CZcams is such a great platform.
I am compelled to build one of these.
Regarding the wooden bit, what if it was drilled with holes, lots of holes.. would that be a good compromise to let the air in similar to the chimney effect? Just a thought and thank you so much for sharing this. Quality content. 👌🏻🙂
Funnily enough I tried that and it didn't work for me... but by then I'd moved on to a leaf blower which was a much stronger air pump. Give it a try. Tape them up if it doesn't work ; )
@@vogman It seems flawless. Reservoir, the device and a pump.
It can feed any furnace if the input hole size in furnace matches the steel pipe.. this is one of those ".. what's the catch?" moment's but I'm not seeing one.. lol 😅.
So, making your furnace (the one on wheels) and this oil burner and I'm golden !?!
Btw, have you considered painting water glass on the walls of the furnace? It's supposed to increase the temps the furnace can withstand.. easily made too..
I haven't come across water glass. I'll have to look that one up : )
@@vogman do, the recipe is on CZcams, main ingredient is Sodium Hydroxide, I managed to pick up couple of kilo's from a hardware shop, I'm in the UK, cost about £4 per pound., the rest is silica gel.. supposedly it creates a ceramic coating for High temp refractorys, I've not tried it yet as I was looking for a furnace project until I found your channel 🙂👌🏻..
@@vogman hello again, I'll probably plague you for advice now 😁..
I've just picked up 25kg of Dinset 14 Fireclay, 1400°C.. will that suffice for the furnace? Planning on coating it once cured with the water glass.. should up temperature limit's. And I got the plumping parts for the oil burner, had em thrown around in garage.. can't wait to get my hands dirty on this project. Many thanks again for your help.. 🙂
Can this run on fat/dirt/crud from the bottom of a veg oil settling drum? Or, alternatively, can the dirty fat mixed with sawdust be used to ignite the furnace?
No, keep clear of the nasties for the engine. You can filter these out VERY easily using settling methods like this one - czcams.com/video/8UhZNgiTh5c/video.html
As for the crude, I've never tried what you suggest. Fats would certainly make things flammable I guess 😊
Can you use waste motor oil in addition to waste cooking oil?
I understand so. Personally I haven't but many people use WMO.
With enough air behind it, I think it would work. If you try it, let me know how you get on :)
what is the gardening hose reducer thingy called in specific
Hi. I think you're talking about the Hose Tail Barb Connector - like this one - www.amazon.co.uk/Connector-Barbed-Thread-Adapters-Thread/dp/B079YT5YVK
hi sir you r a great
Many thanks : )
Do you do anything specific to pretreat the vegetable waste oil before burning?
Hi Adam. Not really. I am a bit of a WVO filtering nut to be honest so mine has been settled to remove fats, water and debris. But if you're using your own used kitchen oil, roughly filtering out all the crumbs will do it. Thankfully there's no precision engineering involved here so we don't have to worry about blockages, etc.
Hope this helps.
Best wishes,
Geoff
Air at 100psi, through a .125" orifice is about 750mph.
Can you use store bought vegetable oil? Thanks!
Yes, shop bought oil is fine.
I have gallons of used engine oil can i use it for this
Very interested in doing this just not sure which oils to use
Hi Christopher. The easiest to find and use is used cooking oil. People throw this away so you can usually get it for free. It also burns cleanly without smoke or too much odour. Some people use old motor oil though I've not personally tried it : )
Would a full on air compressor work or have to much power?
Hi, thanks for the question.
It MIGHT work with a compressor, I'm not certain. I designed this burner because I hadn't got a compressor to use, so I wouldn't want to waste your time encouraging you to built something that might fail.
With this said there are already many good compressor-burner videos out there. I'm sure amongst them you can find a burner video that matches your specific needs.
Best wishes
Geoff
What does your oil drip nosel look like, I would love to make a similar burner but I don't know how to drip the oil. Did you just punch a hole in the end of a pipe? if so what diameter? Thanks
There was nothing clever involved, honestly. I just used a quality gate valve to just slightly open the flow. It was as easy as that :-)
@@vogman so just an open pipe going into the pipe? Sounds wonderfully simple, excited to try it when I get a chance.
Will it melt steel?
Hi Vegoil guy, how are you. I have a question about you video of the veg oil burner for the furnace. I noticed opposite of the oil drip pipe there was a hole but I notice you covered it with a piece of metal with screws.. my question is about that. What was/is the purpose of that metal bit? Is it to cover the whole or give a spot for oil to rest? I'm genuinely curious about it as I am building a vegoil burner from your videos design.. thank you for you time..
It's a good spot, but no, it has no importance : )
If I remember rightly there was simply a hole in the pipe and, as I didn't have another piece of pipe, I just blocked it.
@@vogman thank you for your time , it's very helpful.. keep up the good work and cool helpful video's. I'm subscribing to your channel now. I must be honest. I found you threw watching bidstackd but your very informative with your vids. So keep it up my freind... Thanks
BigD is a mate of mine and a thoroughly nice and genuine guy. I'm really pleased you're one of his subs and I'm delighted you like what you've found here : )
could you achieve the air intake another way? not electric powered maybe air vacuum once it gets going?
Hi Gerardo. I'm going to be honest, I really don't know. It does sound an interesting idea. I don't feel there's quite the draw necessary to create a vacuum... and to achieve such I thing I would imagine tolerances would have to be tight - no gaps, etc. But with that said you might well be the person to succeed with the idea. Try it. Let me know how you get on. I'd be very interested.
All the best.
Geoff
Thanks. This video is very helpful for me, but can I use diesel instead of waste oil? and if yes, is your project good enough to heat up a brick oven?.. Thanks again.
+Nakantas Jeddah
Hi Nakantas. Thanks for your question.
Personally I wouldn't recommend using diesel. It is a VERY volatile fuel. Whilst the liquid itself is not flammable, its vapours are HIGHLY combustible. I would imagine you could very quickly have a dangerous fire on your hands if you used diesel. I really wouldn't advise it.
Vegetable oil on the other hand is actually very difficult to burn. Throw a lighted match into veg oil and you'll just extinguish the match. This makes it a fairly safe fuel to handle. Plus WASTE vegetable oil is usually fairly easy to come by as a lot of businesses (restaurants, etc) have an excess of it they usually have to pay to get rid of.
When it comes to a brick oven, my oil burner certainly could do the trick, yes. But again, I really wouldn't advise you use diesel. If you did there probably wouldn't be much of the oven and - most importantly - YOU left behind.
I hope this helps.
Best wishes,
Geoff
+Geoff VegOilGuy Thanks Geoff for your valuable advice! You saved me from the danger of trying! Thanks a lot.
+Nakantas Jeddah
No worries my friend. Take care and all the best to you.
sir sodium carbonate and flux is important for doring aluminium melting please tellme
Personally I add a little table salt and also flux. The first helps to de-gas (remove bubbles) from the metal. The second encourages dross (contaminants) the rise to the surface where they can be easily spooned away. This should make your metal much more fluid, easier to pour and mould.
Hope this helps.
Hi, can you give me the Mix of your Aka Mortar or a Video? I need it for a future Project and would always credit you :)))) THANK YOU !!!
Hi again Jod. I'm pretty sure I was experimenting at the time with 1 part coarse (concrete) sand, 1 part building (soft sand), 1 part plaster and 1 part cement. I just added as much water as was necessary.
I can't make any claims about the mix. It worked. It's still inside the burner... whether it would work elsewhere I really couldn't say : )
Thank you very much as always :)))... I will do what I can, LOL.
any idea on how hot this thing could burn if you pushed it?
+Arrowflak
Hi. Thanks for the question.
I've cast plenty of aluminium with this oil burner and the graphite crucible has glowed VERY red. I think you can see this on the "improvement" video that followed this one. Crucially it stayed red for a good minute or so after removing it from the foundry, something I NEVER achieved using charcoal.
"Oil Burner" commented on this design and suggested it could handle brass and copper, something I haven't yet tried but plan to soon. His experience is greater than mine, so I'm inclined to believe him.
My personal theory is this... if there's a weakness in this design, it's in the foundry, not the burner. I actually intend to build a new foundry in the New Year to concentrate the heat more efficiently. With that done, I expect great things from this little burner ; )
I hope this helped. Have a great Christmas!
Please man what are the ratings for the blower and how much oil do I need
The output of the blower isn't specific really... anything that does a good job will do. I used an airbed inflater. In another video I found a small, cheap leaf blower on eBay and made a use of that (brilliant). Strong is best... just look around.
How much oil? It really does only need to trickle into the stream of the blower. Any faster and it won't work. So you don't actually need that much. But of course if you use it for several hours then it adds up. I can't say I've ever really measured the quantity used, but I guess a litre within a couple of hours.
The whole point behind this burner is it can be made from whatever you can get your hands on. The first time you light it you will find yourself struggling, getting the right mix between air and oil. Eventually you'll get it and love the results!
Hope this helps.
Geoff
Whats the highest temperature, you think, the veg oil can reach?
+soulhunter0
Hi. Thanks for the question.
"Oil Burner" commented on this design and suggested it could handle brass and copper, something I haven't yet tried but plan to soon. His experience is greater than mine, so I'm inclined to believe him.
My personal theory is this... if there's a weakness in this design, it's in the foundry, not the burner. I'm actually working on a new foundry right now. When it's done, I expect great things from this little burner ; )
I hope this helped. Happy New Year!
Rite Mr vegoilguy I have a problem and I think I know what the problem is but I'd like your advice.
Iv just built a propane / calor gas burner for my furnace. Now the parts iv used are a standard gas bottle adapter which you place on the top and attach the hose to (this is the part I think is thenproblem)
Then just a standard gas hose going to my adjustable flow rate Vale from an old bbq which I have bored out to 4mm to alow the gas to flow through nicely and it does but I fear the adapter for the gas bottle has a restricted flow. Is there a way you could test this theory for me and let me know about your findings or maybe you mite have try ed this already and had the same problem.
When I lite my burner a full flow the flame is like the starting flame of a your burner before you turn it up.
If you have any links for me to look at please post them as this is realy fustrating.
Thanks man
Gas burners are something of a black art...
I've had very limited experience.
I did make my own but I started from a large blowtorch similar to this - gasproducts-8923.kxcdn.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/h/a/ha138-1.jpg - but bought very cheaply on ebay. Strangely I found when this was inserted into the foundry it didn't work. So I placed a forced air inlet right next to it. It still didn't work. So looked at the injection inlet - the very fine hole that the gas passes through. I decided this was too small. Even so, I took the smallest drill bit I had, maybe 1mm, and re-bored it. It worked... but only when the torch is in the foundry. Outside the foundry, nothing Weird - but something to try perhaps...?
If I'm understanding you correctly, if your injection inlet is 4mm, this is probably much too large. At 1mm I was taking a chance.
Many people take the welding tips from Mig Welders and use them as gas inlets. Nice fine hole. Maybe this is your solution?
I'm afraid I can't suggest a particular video or resource as I'm not experienced with it... plus I think it's a regional thing due to fittings. If you're US based, Grant Thomson (King Of Random) has a gas torch build I remember seeing - typically good as all his vids are - but using parts easily available on the US market. I'm in the UK and don't recognise many of the fittings he uses. That's why I bought a dedicated torch and went from there.
Hope there's something in the above that's useful to you.
Good luck. Keep going : )
Geoff
VegOilGuy hey buddy im UK based across the water from Liverpool. I think il take the old 4mm tip out and out a 1mm tip in. Then il try it again il make a short video and post it this Sunday as I'm crazy busy at the minute. Il show all my fittings and what il be doing. Hehe can't wait now I'm all excited
VegOilGuy hey there buddy. Iv just made a small video of my fail. Could you take a look and maybe recommend any ideas or any uk metal meters that could help please.
Thanks man
Of course... I should have remembered - you've said before.
Mind you, I have trouble remembering where I live most of the time : )
Nothing wrong with failing. We learn more from our failures than our successes.
Feel free to post a link to your video here... the more people get to see your video the better your chances of getting a good result : )
he is a good friend of mine. Safety sissys. don't watch his videos. Awesome videos. And same for this good man who did this video. great videos. 73s. to everyone.
Will this burner burn hot enough to melt steel?
Hi James,
I've had one person contact me to say he's successfully working iron using this burner in a VERY well insulated foundry, so I guess that's the secret... the burner will provide the heat but the foundry needs to be able to contain and concentrate it.
Hope this helps.
Geoff
Hi. Perhaps a dumb question from a newbie. I made a vegetable oil burner and it atomises the veg oil into a fine mist. But it doesn't light. Any advise please on what kind of vegetable oil to use. I had corn oil on hand.
Hi Alex. There's no such thing as a daft question my friend. We've all been there and we all learn every day : )
Here's an interesting fact for you - veg oil (or corn oil - much the same thing) doesn't burn very well. Throw in a lit match at nothing will happen.
The vapours will burn which is why vaporising is important, but even then you'd be very lucky to get veg oil burning at low temperatures without mixing something else in. I forget how hot (I think I mention it on the video) but the immediate surroundings need to be a few hundred degrees, way hotter than we could safely handle.
If you look up Oil Burner, the mad Aussie bloke I refer to in my video (great guy - real laugh) you'll see he usually lights a fire in his oil burners before turning them on. I do the same. I light charcoal or wood and when this is nice and hot I introduce the oil.
THEN the oil burns. As it burns it heats the surroundings / tip of the burner and it begins to burn all on its own.
Get the idea? These basic DIY burners are not self lighting... you need heat my friend.
I hope this helps.
Best wishes, Geoff
Thanks.
kinda like diesel needs heat to expand before it actually ignites
Exactly. Diesel doesn't burn that well amazingly... unless you introduce heat and then you have a VERY volatile liquid. That's why its pre-heated with glowplugs and then compressed which raises the temperature of its vapours (it's virtually atomised when injected) to the point where it goes boom.
You can do the same with veg oil which is why I run my diesel vehicle on used veg oil : )
Diesel works better though as it's much more volatile... but please don't try it in an oil burner. I think you might singe more than your eyebrows.
Take care and all the best.
Geoff
If only i had the patience to write all that down
RIP Grant
I don't know what I've done wrong but the oil just won't flow into the burner tube. Instead it just sits there like it's got too much back-pressure. Not sure how to solve this
Hi Jasper. If the oil is clean enough it should have no trouble DRIBBLING (and that's all we want) so if it's waste oil try and filter it first. If it's clean, is it warm enough to flow? Cold oil is very viscous... we want runny. Room temperature is fine but if you're outdoors in a cold climate, try gently heating the oil first... even keeping it indoors for 24 hours before you begin will be enough to get it flowing (unless it's very cold).
If the oil still isn't flowing, is there a blockage somewhere? Does your release valve (I used a gate valve) actually allow a flow? Some can be less sensitive than others and not allow for much fine tuning...
If all the above is okay and everything is running downhill, you short certainly get flow... but remember, not too touch! A trickle in front of you air source to SPIT oil into an already HOT foundry.
Hope this helps ; )
do You think this would work the same way with diesel fuel ??
Diesel is a completely different concept. I would NOT recommend trying it. Petroleum fuels are HIGHLY volatile and combustible. It's the fumes themselves that ignite rather than the liquid. Veg Oil is great simply because it is so difficult to burn.
I want to make this (which I am doing) but wouldn't the oil just shoot out in small little pieces and not a fine mist. Cause oil is thick and it wouldn't mist so easily unlike something like kerosene which is very watery so the oil just wouldn't ignite
The important thing is to preheat the furnace with charcoal or similar and then TRICKLE the oil into the air. If it goes in quickly, it won't work. But if the supply is slow enough, even fine drops are good enough as they'll hit the hot surface, vaporise and ignite. DON'T use kerosene or similar. You'll get a much more violent and uncontrollable reaction that way.
@@vogman ok thanks I will try it and see
Can you tell me if the burner has a smell (of a chips bakery) at all ?
Hi Sander. It really depends on where the waste oil comes from. If it's your home, the chances are you'll hardly notice any smell. If it's from, for example, a Chinese or Indian restaurant, then you may detect an odour of various seasonings.
But I've never encountered any strong smells from used oil. Smells, yes, but nothing offensive or overpowering, and nothing that you could smell a few paces away.
I hope this helps : )
@@vogman thanks that certainly helps. I have send you an email through your website asking this and related questions. Hope you have time to get round to them as well. regards, Sander Tel.
No worries mate. Let me know if you have any problems.
Two questions: First, the only waste veg oil I know of is from restaurants. I've seen it in big barrels The proprietors always say it's being collected ( I don't know who by ) for 'recycling'. Where do you get yours from? I might be able to get some of this stuff but it does tend to be very dirty: lots of solid matter. Second, isn't it illegal to run your car from waste oil? I don't see how you could get a petrol engine to run off oil.
Hi Bruce. Lots of questions there about veg oil (one of my favourite topics).
Where? Restaurants... just keep asking around, you'll eventually find one.
Illegal? Certainly not in the UK and across Europe where there's even pumps on the forecourts.
Petrol engine? No... diesel only.
Filtering? Try my cubie method... czcams.com/video/8UhZNgiTh5c/video.html (old video so I apologise in advance - I was learning the ropes).
If you're interested in this topic (filtering or veg oil motoring), check out my website www.vegoilcar.co.uk
It tells my story and has, I hope, lots of information and plenty of FAQs.
Any problems, let me know.
Best wishes,
Geoff
I agree completely. I'd never recycle WVO for any food source, animal or human. I've witnessed first hand the junk people add to waste oil. It's not that they do it on purpose generally, it's simply that they generally clean as they drain oil so chemicals are often involved. But this doesn't explain some of the crazy stuff I've found : )
look up Diesel and you will see it was made to run of vegi oil not Diesel.
NOT ILLEGAL IN THE UK TO USE WVO IN VEHICLES AS LONG AS YOU REGISTER IT WITH THE TAX OFFICE AND YOU HAVE TO KEEP RECORDS OF YOUR MILAGE AND THE AMOUNT YOU USE ,
opps caps lock ,,
yes its always dirty as its been used alot,
try chip shops etc , and put adverts on the facebook for sale groups for :: used veg oil wanted for free : you will get it
The restaurants collect it and sell it to companies that take it and recycle it.
If you asked them, they'd probably give you a good price unless they are serious about their contract with the other guys.
hello i like to how long does a gallon last?
I have no specific figures to give you, but quite a while would be my answer. I'd expect several good burning sessions with a gallon : )
What temp will that get to!
After 1700C the refractory will start to crack up
can i use alchool instead of oil?
I'm not sure but personally I wouldn't recommend it... alcohol is very volatile and may flame too much. Veg oil is actually quite hard to burn and is therefore a much safer liquid to experiment with. Hope this helps : )
if we put waste oil in a sand blaster and spray it would this work?
Possibly Uma. It would likely vaporise the oil - a very fine mix of air and oil - which is good. But it might not ignite. Waste oil is funny stuff like that - it needs heat to get it going. But as I say, it might work.
@@vogman what if propanol is used?
I would urge you to be VERY careful with propane or any other highly flammable substance. I'd hate something nasty to happen to you.
Waste Oil is surprisingly safe to handle and use because it doesn't ignite that easily.
Personally, if you want to use gas, I'd recommend a purpose bought one. I tried making my own gas burner and it wasn't very good. But the one I got from Devil-Forge is fantastic. It makes all the difference.
I am not sure but I think you could heat your entire home on waste oil I think it would get so hot that it would not give off any oder and heat your home in minutes & if you had a pilot light you could set your air on a timer to turn on and off at intervales to your desire just think of the money you could save in the cold months.
Hi Patrick. To be honest when it's this hot there's no smoke or odour that I've noticed.
In theory there's no reason why the principle couldn't be applied to heating homes / buildings / water / anything really and you're right it's an excellent example of taking a waste product that might otherwise be dumped and using it in an effective, carbon neutral way.
I know one contributor (below) mentioned using this method to heat his workshop. Good for him.
Best wishes,
Geoff
does it work with diesel or kerosene
Sorry for the delay...
I wouldn't recommend using petrol, diesel, kerosene or any other highly flammable liquid. These are literally EXPLOSIVE. When you see one of those large Hollywood explosions in a movie, it's generally petrol that they use...
The point behind veg oil, for instance, is that it's usually free if you get waste oil, plus it's nice and stable. You could actually put out a small fire by pouring on veg oil... if you did that with diesel, you could be in a whole mess of trouble.
When it comes to dealing with high temperatures such as in a forge or foundry, I'd recommend you keep as many volatile liquids out of the equation as possible.
Hope this helps.
best wishes
Geoff
Does this work with olive oil
I can't see why not : )
seems to simple. does it REALLY work?
+Widget Lover
Hi Widget. Yes is IS simple... that's the whole point my friend, but importantly it does work.
I would say it's probably down to the power of your air blower. Mine inflates kids paddling pools, etc, so it's pretty good and consistent. If you've got something similar knocking about the house or shed, then feel free to have a bash at making your own and drop me a line. I'd love to hear how you get on.
Waste car oil or waste VegOil wil it melt iron?
I've heard from a couple of viewers that say they're using their burners to melt iron. Insulation is the key : )
Hello, Can you use a hair blower for the air intake?
Possibly a powerful hair dryer, yes : )
VegOilGuy Hair blowers here in the Philippines are powerful,
Also can be the air already be heated up so it can combust more?
I don't think that would make much difference, but give it a go. Maybe it will : )
VegOilGuy Thank!
Why is there two holes where the oil feed goes into the main tube then the lower one is closed ? Thanks
Hi John. You've got a sharp eye : )
I think the holes you're talking about were one already in the tube. It was just a bit of scrap I picked up. I blocked off the bottom one as I didn't want anything dripping out and as luck would have it the top one was just the right size to let in some copper tube.
Please don't look for anything complex in this build. It's meant to be simple - so simple even I can do it ; )
I hope this make sense. If you've got any more questions, let me know.
All the best,
Geoff
I am going to make one as I have access to plenty free wmo so thought I would make sure about the holes first ,thanks for replying ,great idea and one of the simplest I have seen to make 👍👍
Thanks John. It really is simple and it really DOES work. Read the comments below the video for tips I've given to others on the initial set up. Any problems drop me a line : )
VegOilGuy I'm going to use a bit of scaffolding pole powered by an adjustable extractor fan with 6 speed settings ,then I'm going to use it to power an oven /cooker I'm building ,more power to your elbow 👍
How safe is this equipment?
About as safe as any aspect of casting really. It's a dangerous process that needs to be approached with caution and respect. But the burner works fine - honestly : )
It's like a carborator
Exactly : )
I was just wondering if it's hard on fuel
Hi Logan,
No I don't think so. You tend to find once you've gone over to waste oil you never go back. I've been asked several times how thirsty they are and I've never really been able to say as I don't measure. But I will say this...
When I first started out, I tried charcoal like most people. A couple of hours would see me go through a hole bag of charcoal (plus I'd generally find just as the metal was getting close to melting the charcoal would run out - typical).
With veg oil, I pour a few inches into a bucket. At the end of a couple of hours, I seem to pour a couple of inches out.
Obviously I'm burning oil, but my point is I've NEVER had to top it up and I've NEVER once stopped and thought, "that's used a lot."
I can't really quantify wvo against coal, charcoal or gas, but having used all of them I can say that it "feels" like oil is the most efficient. But then as I get my waste oil for free, I'm biased : )
Hope this helps.
Geoff
can you run this on used motor oil??
Hi Ed. I've not tried it but I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work. A lot of folks use WMO in oil burners simply because it works the same as veg oil.
Hope this helps : )
the reason I ask is that I have nearly unlimited supply of wmo not much wvo available. lets here from anyone who has built your style and used wmo
what temperatures does it get up to?
Hi James. I'll be honest I don't know. I don't have a means to measure it. BUT it has melted Copper if that's makes it easier.
Best wishes
Geoff
Did the copper melt readily? I'm interested in using a setup like this for forging, and the heat needed for that slightly higher than copper's melting point.
Either way, I need to do something with my surplus vegetable oil, I collect it faster than I drive on it, so have around 500 gallons stored.
I only briefly experimented with copper and at the time there was no insulation on my foundry, but I did achieve a partial melt.
With a good stable foundry with plenty of insulation, I think oil burners make an excellent heat source.
Have you tried iron and steel? I'm looking to make a foundry that I can make my own steel from raw materials.
Can i use palm oil?
It's not something I've tried but probably yes. I run my car on veg oil and am aware that people all around the world run diesels on different natural oils like coconut, etc. It might well be worth giving it a go : )
VegOilGuy thanks
How much oil it use
Not much at all 😁
Where can I get a blower like this?
They're not easy to find. You're looking for an electric air pump capable of blowing up air beds, etc. However, what is much easier to find is something like this... czcams.com/video/Boa7_-4hMVI/video.html
VegOilGuy would an air mattress inflator do the job?
That's exactly what my original pump was, so it should : )
I also found a portable air compressor. Would that work?
It's hard to say... I've no experience with those.
There is probably a lot of carbon built up on the nozzle head after some time
Is this the vegetable oil I can get at the store?
Yes Matas, just ordinary cooking oil : )
VegOilGuy Does it get as hot as propane?
Hi Matas. I don't know the temperature of the flames.
I can say a reasonably build foundry with adequate insulation would have no trouble melting copper with a veg oil burner like this, and that's around 1100C. I know I've managed that.
So I suppose that's my answer - it's all about the foundry.
Hope this helps.
VegOilGuy It can melt copper?!? I'm sold. Thanks.
where from you sir iam from kashmir
I'm in the UK my friend. That's the beauty of CZcams.
Is it a pig on the oil
Hi Logan,
To run this oil burner, you've got to really want to do it - yes it's a bit awkward : )
It's a bit fiddly adjusting the air and the oil balance, but once you've got it sorted it's great.
But if you're looking for easy control, gas is probably a better option.
Hope this helps.
Geoff
ahh, cool you do burn it
Is waste vegetable oil literally just used cooking vegetable oil? I know it's probably a dumb question, but I really am clueless.
+Eric Matos
Hi Eric. Thanks for your question - and it is a good one. A lot of us talk about WVO without actually saying what it is.
You're spot on. Waste Vegetable Oil is simply ordinary cooking oil that's fulfilled its purpose - it's been cooked with. You can collect it domestically from your own fryer but it's better to get it commercially where large volumes are used. Typically restaurants etc get through a lot of the stuff. Every time they change their veg oil, they have a surplus of waste that's historically been dumped in landfills. This isn't good for the environment of course.
Burning WVO in an oil burner (or even to drive a vehicle on as I do - see www.vegoilcar.co.uk ) might not seem very environmentally friendly, but in essence we're taking a waste product, stopping it from being dumped, and reusing it. When it's burned, it's carbon neutral (as it's grown for that purpose). It's certainly MUCH greener than burning fossil fuels which includes gas.
I hope this answers your question my friend.
Best wishes,
Geoff
+Geoff VegOilGuy is it possible to burn clean out of the bottle vegetable oil or does it have to be used?
+Eric Matos
Virgin oil (as it's called) is very popular and probably EASIER to use than WVO. It's less viscous and you don't need to worry about filtering and de-watering it. So yes, you certainly can use virgin oil.
Hope this helps ; )
Complicate but thx.