Good luck to all the new builders out there. Take your time be picky and learn the process ahead of the actual work to save yourself from potentially ruining the components.
I’m so grateful for this tutorial. I’ve repaired tiny whoops but I’m starting my first full build of a 3” 5-6s sub 250 (depending on the battery and extra HD cameras 😅) build. The 3 guys that have helped make this first build possible are JB, BaconFPV, and MurdersFPV.
Been practicing on simulators for awhile now, looking forward to ordering everything next month! Thanks so much for all of your wisdom and the inspiration Joshua! You da man! 😁🤜🤛
I'd use some conformal on the space between the bridged wires, I'd lift the red wire and paint the ground pad heavily, since, I am assuming, they will be high amp contacts. Certainly nothing wrong with it as long as the insulator is there, but sometimes high amp circuits melt that stuff.
Maybe there should be a video 15? To show everyone how to put remote I D on this as well.. Less than a month away and I don't know how to install or where to buy a remote ID module for any of my over 249 gram quads. I know it is not your fault, and your time to do these videos sometimes got to be a pain in the a$$. Your perfect teaching skills really helps this great FPV community!! 👍
My experience with blue loctite is that if you use a q-tip to brush the top of the thread as it protrudes from a nut or threaded bolt hole AFTER you've tightened it, that holds well but is easier to back out if you need to. It's those little details that make life easier.
@JoshuaBardwell Hey Joshua. Just a trick, the gummies that goes on the ESC,FC mounting holes can be inserted easily with dental floss if there is no cut on the mounting holes.
Also, 1/8" woven sleeve would keep those motor wires a bit neater. I come from PC building and cable management is a real thing. LOL It would add some weight, but you'd only need a zip tie in the middle, instead of one on each end, so it's offset? Oh, ok, just a bit of cloth tape, fair use. Although it will age poorly, especially if left in sunlight. We also deal with the gummy mounts for case fans. when they have no cutout, put dental floss loop through hole, hook head of gummy and pull through, the floss compresses it "just enough" to fit.
It's a bit dangerous to have your positive battery lead on the ESC have the insulating outer layer touching the negative open wire. Depending upon builds and batteries, these leads can heat up quite a bit. So much that the outer insulation layer gets quite playable. After some usage that positive lead insulation layer could be melted away leaving a positive to negative bridge and major short circuit/fire/ESC burn. Probably not, but it is a possibility.
I disagree wholeheartedly. This is silicone insulation. It will not melt under any temperature experienced by this aircraft. The issue you're describing is purely imaginary.
Im asking for the analog kit for christmas i already have the controller and i have been practicing in sims im so excited to have a real quad Edit: I got it
Hi Josh I am only on the second video and I am already learning tons. I would consider myself good at soldering, I used to desolder and re-install 8087 chips on Micro controlled daisy wheel printers. They used "Stepper Motors" or the original brushless motor because of the ability to control exact rotation. But On to my question. Soldering Video. I have looked in the links below and can't seem to find your practice soldering video. Can you send me a link? Thank you, Scott😁
Joshua! Isn't there a risk of having a sharp part of the negative solderjoint/cable rub through the insulation of the positive cable as the battery cables might move, given you recommend soldering it "on top"? Great video, it's relaxing watching you solder!
I wouldn't worry about it. Silicone insulated wires can take a beating before their insulation is compromised. Of course you would want to make sure you don't leave any sharp spikes on your solder pads to break the insulation.
I was TODAY years old when I learned that you can just rotate the cups inside the XT60 connector... XD But @JoshuaBardwell what's with the black tape? Finally ran out of red? ^^
Hi mr @JoshuaBardwell, I purchased this kit from GetFpv and got one soldering station from Amazon. The soldering station is a Yihua 926 LED III orange one. I can't solder the negative and positive pad on the ESC with this soldering iron. Actually, I did not face any problems when soldering the motor's wires. Negative and Positive pads on the ESC are large and I think this soldering station does not have enough power to heat up fast during the soldering process. I want to ask what is your soldering iron. Is it Hakko? I want to get one of this.
I figured out, that soldering wire is absolutely important. I switched the soldering wire with the components of the Yihua soldering station and it worked. I threw the old one which I bought from Aliexpress. Never gonna use cheap stuff again.
Hello @joshuaBardwell from the future, in past videos you've soldered a capacitor onto the ESC with the XT60 leads. Is this no longer required / common practice? looking to get into the hobby and build my first drone, want to make sure i'm not missing anything important.
Low ESR capacitor, preferably near ESC is still very good idea to solder, it reduces electrical and RF noise and saves ESC from voltage spikes. Drone would work without it, but I Highly recommend adding it, it might save your ESC from burning
10:31 Red Loctite despite it being called permanent is Not in fact permanent. I know this first hand from working on cars and trucks. The Auto industry, is where Loctite mostly comes from. Can be used for an infinite number of fastener applications, outside that of engines and suspension, but Today its main use is in the auto industry. Red Loctite only requires a tiny bit of heat to make it "non permanent", Be that from a hot air station, a torch or your wife/GF's blow dryer.
To be fair it depends wildly on the loctite. Loctite 620 for instance is rated up to 200C. But yes in general only about 150C is needed to break most Loctite down pretty easily, and some are even less than that. Regardless though, using the wrong stuff will make you have a bad day. Often it's enough to strip the screw head out if you're not expecting it, and the folks who might accidentally use the wrong Loctite probably don't know to heat the screw up with a soldering iron before trying to remove it.
hey JB, first of all i wanted thank you for such a video series beneficial for the beginner like me. I noticed that the you have not wired any capacitor to the power connection of the ESC. have the esc already had the capacitor ?
I havent built one yet but watched several build videos now and noticed you didnt install a capacitor onto the battery pads. All the videos ive watched so far have the capacitor so im curious why you didnt use one?
The metal internal X can work as a replacement for the carbon fiber X in the older QAV-S frames if you keep the stock carbon wedges, but unfortunately the new wedge system won't quite work as it needs some slight cutouts in the top and bottom plate for the screw heads to clear and there is no additional retention of the bottom plate to the X plate which will impact the frame rigidity. Theoretically you could make it fit, but I think it would have a negative impact on performance without the center screw in the bottom plate holding everything together. There are probably ways to make it work, but it would require some "home engineering" :D
6:21 @JoshuaBardwell , are the press nuts removable? Mine are pressed in upside down. The slots were milled first and the press nuts were installed from the wrong side. So can they be pressed out or should I clearance the plate again?
@@JoshuaBardwell thanks again for your suggestion, they said they were are sending me a new plate right away. That didn't happen so I'm returning my kit now but I hope they get their stuff together in the future.
Hi Joshua. I don’t know much about ELRS receivers. But is it compatible with my XD9+ running OPENTX? Cause I’m really keen on this new build and want to purchase it.
Have I? I don't think that's true. I just did a big block of four or five frame reviews. Show me timestamps where I complained about the number of top plate screws?
We actually tried reducing that with the QAV-S standard edition on the first QAV-S two years ago, and the feedback was generally negative. The consensus from that was that most people don't care about 8 screws for the top plate and prefer strength and stability over convenience. Especially in keeping the weight low those factors come at a tradeoff. Also to be fair it's still two screws less than the JohnnyFPV QAV-S :D Also a side benefit of the stock camera mount is that you don't need to remove the GoPro or the GoPro mount since it doesn't use the same screws, makes pulling the top plate a lot easier.
Bro go buy yourself a proper set of wire strippers, diagonal cutters are great but are NOT the right tool for the job. Also shouldn’t twist your wires…
I own wire strippers. They are in the drawer above my work bench. I never use them. I hate having to think about what size of wire I'm using, then line up the correct size stripping hole, then strip. And diagonal cutters are better for cutitng wire short, and work fine for stripping. This is how I do it. This is how I have done it basically my whole life. It has never caused a problem for me. I stand by this method.
Wouldn't it be hypocritical to teach people one way and then secretly do it a different way in private? Honestly, I don't think diagonal cutters are as big a deal as some people make them out to be.
Good luck to all the new builders out there. Take your time be picky and learn the process ahead of the actual work to save yourself from potentially ruining the components.
Do you have advice on where to buy all these part for cheap ?
honestly the best advice out there is!
Thank you will do
I’m so grateful for this tutorial. I’ve repaired tiny whoops but I’m starting my first full build of a 3” 5-6s sub 250 (depending on the battery and extra HD cameras 😅) build. The 3 guys that have helped make this first build possible are JB, BaconFPV, and MurdersFPV.
Thanks a bunch for the tutorial, Joshua! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I love your tutorials Joshua! Working towards building my first drone in 2 months time, and these tutorials really help.
for the gummies, put a loop of floss through the hole and around the lip on the gummie. Pull back through. Done
hey i know its been a year but i just wanted to say this tip was amazing! thanks!
Been practicing on simulators for awhile now, looking forward to ordering everything next month! Thanks so much for all of your wisdom and the inspiration Joshua! You da man! 😁🤜🤛
I'd use some conformal on the space between the bridged wires, I'd lift the red wire and paint the ground pad heavily, since, I am assuming, they will be high amp contacts. Certainly nothing wrong with it as long as the insulator is there, but sometimes high amp circuits melt that stuff.
Maybe there should be a video 15? To show everyone how to put remote I D on this as well.. Less than a month away and I don't know how to install or where to buy a remote ID module for any of my over 249 gram quads. I know it is not your fault, and your time to do these videos sometimes got to be a pain in the a$$. Your perfect teaching skills really helps this great FPV community!! 👍
Yes definitely there will be a part showing how to add a RemoteID module. I'm working on it :-)
All videos in this series are in this playlist: czcams.com/play/PLwoDb7WF6c8l24IM83wIS94XzhuMVC2gx.html
My experience with blue loctite is that if you use a q-tip to brush the top of the thread as it protrudes from a nut or threaded bolt hole AFTER you've tightened it, that holds well but is easier to back out if you need to. It's those little details that make life easier.
@JoshuaBardwell Hey Joshua. Just a trick, the gummies that goes on the ESC,FC mounting holes can be inserted easily with dental floss if there is no cut on the mounting holes.
Joshua overcompensating for vacations 🤣🤣🤣❤
Pure Awesomeness JB . I’m getting your new frame homie 🙌
11:15 Gummi or Gummies is German for the material rubber. Anything tiny made of rubber is called gummi in the first place 😊
Sticking around for the first step that screams, “Yup! Definitely can’t do that!”
Buy the DIY build kit at:
* Analog video version - bit.ly/3QtWKOd
* Digital HD video version - bit.ly/45AUklt
Knoxville, Tennesse represent 🙌 👏 😎
We need a Knoxville Meetup!!!!???
Freestyle Everywhere
Also, 1/8" woven sleeve would keep those motor wires a bit neater. I come from PC building and cable management is a real thing. LOL
It would add some weight, but you'd only need a zip tie in the middle, instead of one on each end, so it's offset?
Oh, ok, just a bit of cloth tape, fair use. Although it will age poorly, especially if left in sunlight.
We also deal with the gummy mounts for case fans. when they have no cutout, put dental floss loop through hole, hook head of gummy and pull through, the floss compresses it "just enough" to fit.
Analytical Statement. Best yet!😊
i love the arm mounting on that frame. but in the eu, its way too expensive
Thanks Josh
It's a bit dangerous to have your positive battery lead on the ESC have the insulating outer layer touching the negative open wire. Depending upon builds and batteries, these leads can heat up quite a bit. So much that the outer insulation layer gets quite playable. After some usage that positive lead insulation layer could be melted away leaving a positive to negative bridge and major short circuit/fire/ESC burn. Probably not, but it is a possibility.
I disagree wholeheartedly. This is silicone insulation. It will not melt under any temperature experienced by this aircraft. The issue you're describing is purely imaginary.
Im asking for the analog kit for christmas i already have the controller and i have been practicing in sims im so excited to have a real quad
Edit: I got it
Babe wake up, JB posted a new build video
FYI: your recommended link for "DJI O3 Air Unit" is broken in the article description
My Xilo build is still alive and rocking 😂. 200 flights later
Thank you, good video for my.👍👍
"This is good wire and you should save it" - Every Hoarder
Maybe a video bout best first fpv drone?? Or best drone if you could choose only 1 or 2
Hi Josh
I am only on the second video and I am already learning tons.
I would consider myself good at soldering, I used to desolder and re-install 8087 chips on Micro controlled daisy wheel printers. They used "Stepper Motors" or the original brushless motor because of the ability to control exact rotation. But On to my question. Soldering Video. I have looked in the links below and can't seem to find your practice soldering video. Can you send me a link?
Thank you, Scott😁
Joshua! Isn't there a risk of having a sharp part of the negative solderjoint/cable rub through the insulation of the positive cable as the battery cables might move, given you recommend soldering it "on top"?
Great video, it's relaxing watching you solder!
I also have this doubt
I wouldn't worry about it. Silicone insulated wires can take a beating before their insulation is compromised. Of course you would want to make sure you don't leave any sharp spikes on your solder pads to break the insulation.
Hey Joshua hows the flight time on this build itll be my first very excited thankyou so much for the series
Great video! Question: no capacitor needed??
I was TODAY years old when I learned that you can just rotate the cups inside the XT60 connector... XD
But @JoshuaBardwell what's with the black tape? Finally ran out of red? ^^
Wow it's been long. You are still here.
No clean Flux also still needs cleaned lol....
Hi mr @JoshuaBardwell, I purchased this kit from GetFpv and got one soldering station from Amazon. The soldering station is a Yihua 926 LED III orange one. I can't solder the negative and positive pad on the ESC with this soldering iron. Actually, I did not face any problems when soldering the motor's wires. Negative and Positive pads on the ESC are large and I think this soldering station does not have enough power to heat up fast during the soldering process. I want to ask what is your soldering iron. Is it Hakko? I want to get one of this.
I figured out, that soldering wire is absolutely important. I switched the soldering wire with the components of the Yihua soldering station and it worked. I threw the old one which I bought from Aliexpress. Never gonna use cheap stuff again.
@@ermanpehlivan2335glad it worked our!
Hello @joshuaBardwell from the future, in past videos you've soldered a capacitor onto the ESC with the XT60 leads. Is this no longer required / common practice? looking to get into the hobby and build my first drone, want to make sure i'm not missing anything important.
You should watch the whole series ❤️
Low ESR capacitor, preferably near ESC is still very good idea to solder, it reduces electrical and RF noise and saves ESC from voltage spikes.
Drone would work without it, but I Highly recommend adding it, it might save your ESC from burning
The german word for rubber is Gummi. Maybe that's the reason. 😊
Did anyone see the FPV sucks at 4:13 in the video
10:31 Red Loctite despite it being called permanent is Not in fact permanent. I know this first hand from working on cars and trucks. The Auto industry, is where Loctite mostly comes from. Can be used for an infinite number of fastener applications, outside that of engines and suspension, but Today its main use is in the auto industry. Red Loctite only requires a tiny bit of heat to make it "non permanent", Be that from a hot air station, a torch or your wife/GF's blow dryer.
To be fair it depends wildly on the loctite. Loctite 620 for instance is rated up to 200C. But yes in general only about 150C is needed to break most Loctite down pretty easily, and some are even less than that. Regardless though, using the wrong stuff will make you have a bad day. Often it's enough to strip the screw head out if you're not expecting it, and the folks who might accidentally use the wrong Loctite probably don't know to heat the screw up with a soldering iron before trying to remove it.
Been getting lots of vibrations from dji03 and after flight using gyro flow is def no help
Thank you for cutting the power cable insulation back. Always cringe to see people solder that thick being soo short.
Are these somewhat water/splash resistant?
hey JB, first of all i wanted thank you for such a video series beneficial for the beginner like me. I noticed that the you have not wired any capacitor to the power connection of the ESC. have the esc already had the capacitor ?
The cap will be added later.
do we not use the copastors in this build?
Nice video,I need a help is Elsr 24t 2.4Gh receiver compatible with Flysky Fsi4 transmitter
Hi new here, I subscribed by the way,😊 Quick Q, Is your radio the All in 1, ELRS, or Max? and 2nd is the New transparent version the same as the rest?
29:51 Curuious to know why no Capacitor?
Keep watching the playlist. The capacitor is added in a later step.
Great tutorial, but may i ask why you didn’t use a capacitor?
I did. Keep watching.
@@JoshuaBardwell I probably skipped over it, sorry to bother you.
No bother. It's in a later video :-)
Ooh ok haha. Stupid me 😅
I havent built one yet but watched several build videos now and noticed you didnt install a capacitor onto the battery pads. All the videos ive watched so far have the capacitor so im curious why you didnt use one?
Finish the series then get back to me in that question. Or read the rest of the comments where thus question had been asked and answered. 😊😘
No Bardwell F7 in the Bardwell quad? Ô_ô
What is the tool you have featured at 24:53 for holding the wires while you solder??
they are called soldering Helping Hands
How cheaper is it to build your own drone?
JB is the reason about you mount the ESC 180degrees is it about the space?? Between the stack and vtx??
Yes that's right.
@joshua I'd like to put some hot glue on the batteries pad after soldering it, is it more secure?
No I don't think that's necessary or beneficial. If you want to waterproof use conformal coating or liquid electrical tape.
Would they deliver to the uk using your link??? Or will this full kit be available in the uk?
Hi, does the speedybee f405 stack could fit on your QAV-S 2 frame?
Witch is the best fpv Google. Under 100$.
And 💕💕💕 from India
there is no good one ... Just get a eachine or so or cheap boxed goggles
Which is better overall, the analogue or digital please? And why is the digital kit so much cheaper? Cheers from UK.
Because on the digital version theres no fpv system... if you would for examplen go for the o3 air unit from dji your gonna be up 200€
what about a capacitor on the power? it came in my kit?
Yes. It will be installed ina later step.
thanks for the quick answer! @@JoshuaBardwell
Hey Joshua, amazing frame. Does that X brace fit the older frame?
The metal internal X can work as a replacement for the carbon fiber X in the older QAV-S frames if you keep the stock carbon wedges, but unfortunately the new wedge system won't quite work as it needs some slight cutouts in the top and bottom plate for the screw heads to clear and there is no additional retention of the bottom plate to the X plate which will impact the frame rigidity. Theoretically you could make it fit, but I think it would have a negative impact on performance without the center screw in the bottom plate holding everything together. There are probably ways to make it work, but it would require some "home engineering" :D
@@QuadMcFlyFlies thanks for the info man!
6:21 @JoshuaBardwell , are the press nuts removable? Mine are pressed in upside down. The slots were milled first and the press nuts were installed from the wrong side. So can they be pressed out or should I clearance the plate again?
Please contact support@getfpv.com. This is a manufacturing issue that was supposed to be fixed before shipment.
@@JoshuaBardwell thanks again for your suggestion, they said they were are sending me a new plate right away. That didn't happen so I'm returning my kit now but I hope they get their stuff together in the future.
Hi Joshua. I don’t know much about ELRS receivers. But is it compatible with my XD9+ running OPENTX? Cause I’m really keen on this new build and want to purchase it.
Elrs is only compatible with elrs, sorry
Joshua only one question. What temperature do you use on the soldering iron? thanks !!!! :)
450 C but that's probably too hot for beginner. Suggest 425 or 400.
Thanks for all from Spain!!! We love your amazing vídeos!!! 😁😁
So my kit won't be here for a week. What sim, and which drone, best matches this drone?
How did it go? Were you able to mount a gps?
where is capacitor 😟
Ok. I am not crazy as I didn’t see it either. Previous version ran it to the front with excess motor wire.
Spoilers...He puts it on later. Keep watching. lol
@@xBarnabyJonesx okay good to know 👍
8:16 this shit happend to me and i smoked my esc
Any one pls help me to build a drone😊
Although I assume you are human, you seem to think of every tiny detail.
Whats up with that top plate? 8 screws to get to the innards? Thats unacceptable. You have bashed every quad for years that has this.
Have I? I don't think that's true. I just did a big block of four or five frame reviews. Show me timestamps where I complained about the number of top plate screws?
We actually tried reducing that with the QAV-S standard edition on the first QAV-S two years ago, and the feedback was generally negative. The consensus from that was that most people don't care about 8 screws for the top plate and prefer strength and stability over convenience. Especially in keeping the weight low those factors come at a tradeoff. Also to be fair it's still two screws less than the JohnnyFPV QAV-S :D
Also a side benefit of the stock camera mount is that you don't need to remove the GoPro or the GoPro mount since it doesn't use the same screws, makes pulling the top plate a lot easier.
Bro go buy yourself a proper set of wire strippers, diagonal cutters are great but are NOT the right tool for the job. Also shouldn’t twist your wires…
I own wire strippers. They are in the drawer above my work bench. I never use them. I hate having to think about what size of wire I'm using, then line up the correct size stripping hole, then strip. And diagonal cutters are better for cutitng wire short, and work fine for stripping. This is how I do it. This is how I have done it basically my whole life. It has never caused a problem for me. I stand by this method.
That’s great for you, however a bad practice to pass down to the beginner was the point I was trying to make. 🤷♂️
Wouldn't it be hypocritical to teach people one way and then secretly do it a different way in private? Honestly, I don't think diagonal cutters are as big a deal as some people make them out to be.
@@JoshuaBardwell 👍
I don’t have a hand hand too, but I have a third leg tool😂😂😂….sorry😑
You should probably stop calling the silicone spacers gummies. Before ppls kids hear this in the background and start eating them.