As a carpenter who owns a variety of laser line levels, it came to me I could set up a line laser on the side and one above to keep the drill bit straight as it goes in. I don't trust my aiming skills with that long of a bit... haha. You make a great instructional video. I think I can apply what I have learned watching in a Miroku shotgun I own that has crack in the same place. Thanks very much
Thanks for the tip, Jim. To me, the key is to try to keep air out of the bottom of the hole. In my experience, any air in the bottom of the hole only pushes out the epoxy. Techniques to get air out: 1) Put epoxy in the bottom of the hole with a long needle, epoxy pushes air out. 2) Use a threaded rod to auger the epoxy into the bottom of the hole (this worked extraordinarily well in the deep hole) or 3) Drill a relief hole into the bottom of the hole drilled for the dowel to let air escape (I'm not a big fan of this method, because it's too easy to miss the hole).
A good trick to use on wood dowels, is to pinch them along it's length creating long grooves where the glue/epoxy can get into the make the fix stronger. That threaded rod is a good idea too.
That is the best explanation and completion of stock wrist reinforcement I have seen on You Tube. The care, experience and enthusiasm of the presenter are great to behold. Thank you so much! Perry P., SoCal.
Thanks Mark. Love to learn from you. Your channel is creating a library with a wealth of knowledge we wouldn’t be able to afford otherwise. Keep up the great work and see you next time.
Can't beat the feel of a good worn in hickory shirt ! Fixing a broken stock on a Browning 725. The stock screw was loose when fired and split the ends off. Not enough to drill straight in. Had to pin it from the sides, trying to hide it the best I can. He needs it to practice for continental and will get a replacement later.
That is is great repair. Never ceases to amaze how much can be saved by those with the skill and know how. I am absolutely jealous of “John” having such a sweet 1886 in 45/70! Happy trails to you as well and enjoy that rifle John.
Great Mark! so nice to see how you solved this problem. Exactly as I would do it… But I did learn something new about the finish. I always like the combination of steel and wood, especially with this Winchester. Superbe!
I'm about to set about restoring my great grandmother's Winchester 1906 (made 1926) and it's had a crack just like this one for about twice my lifetime maybe even longer than that. I'm going to have to use smaller drill bits and dowels but this was really helpful for how to go about doing it! Now I need to decide how far I want to restore it and how much patina to leave. I think I'll ask dad and grandpa before I do anything past a deep clean though, since it was theirs' before it was mine. I'd like to re-blue or even possibly plate it. I think case hardened would be my choice but I don't want to retemper almost hundred year old iron.
Great Video! I sure like watching how you fixed up the 86. The wood dowels will definately make the stock alot more sturdy. I've used them in the past. I liked how you even stained them. Perfect touch! Thank you for posting!!
Thanks Mark! I was just getting over my infatuation with the 1886 and my desire to add one to my collection. However, now I'm starting to look for a new addition. I won't get as lucky as I did with my 1873...that was a steal. Keeping the search to 45/70 keeps that cost up there a little more. Thanks for the tutorial!
Morning, just watching your video, great as always. A tip i got years ago for keeping a drill bit level, is to put a large washer on the drill bit, and as you drill, it will move back and forwards depending on wether you are tipping the drill bit up or down If it stays where it is your level, always works for me and used the idea for years. Still waiting for a video about caliber and bullet size explanation like this one, an 18/86 ? In 45/70? Regards Richard 🇬🇧
@@thecinnabar8442 I'm glad that happens to other people, i used to think it only happened to the inexperienced 😄. Lovely rifle though. Regards Richard 🇬🇧
Great video , I've done similar repairs and something that really helps is the use of dowels with grooves , like somebody mentioned below, because on top of making it stronger it also helps the air to come out of the drilled hole when inserting the dowel i also clean the hole with some compressed air before inserting the dowel , i just use the kind that comes in a bottle used to clean keyboards . thanks for your videos
I'd be so nervous to attempt a repair like that. But, you know what yer doin. And I would not have a clue! Beautiful job. That stock was worth saving! I have many antique firearms, and even a cracked stock is still part of that guns history, and character. Worth saving if you can. Thanks for sharing with us. Great video.
Great work Mark! I’ll be sending my 1873 out to you soon. I’m waiting on a couple of items to come in as well as the Cody Letter on the rifle to come in before I ship it out to you. 👍
Brownells used to have (may still have) threaded brass pins for this job too. It did have the advantage of pulling things together like a wood screw. Your use of all thread here is really a solid re bar method. A hard kicker lever gun stock might benefit from this from new.
I know I am a little late for comment but thanks for sharing your technique. A good eye with deep hole gundrilling can't hurt. You only have to ruin one to perfect the method. Good eye man.
The owner could not ask for a better job. You did an amazing job on that stalk. You sure know your stuff. I have always wanted an old gun like that. Is that gun for sale? I'd sure be interested, lol. Great video I always look forward to your videos. Thank you for sharing them. Stay well & safe.
Had to fix a cheap gun rack at the Thompson Hunting Lodge didn't have a dowel handy so I got a bamboo skewer from the chef and used it with some Tightbond wood glue. We'll see what happens, should be good for the rest of the life of the rack. Hopefully! I've been told don't be afraid to mix some of your stain into your linseed oil.
It's nice to even blend in the dowels. My thought is someone years from now might think it needs to be fixed and start to do something similar. Since the dowels are covered up.... Maybe It'd be better to leave them without stain as a sign that it had been worked on. . I know it's preferences.
The dowels are still quite visible. They just don't stand out like a sore thumb like they would if they were left "in the white". It's highly unlikely that someone would miss them if working on the stock in the future.
Wood glue does not gap fill, as epoxy does. Also, most epoxy glues are 100% solids (no solvents that evaporate). For this you want a lower viscosity glue to get it to flow and penetrate the wood. Try and get the slowest hardener. I have good luck with Raka epoxy out of Florida. They have everything.
I sand or file a small flat on the side of the dowel to allow the excess epoxy to escape the hole allowing the dowel to go in until the depth mark is even with surface. I don't have to make the flat very wide thus it shouldn't have much effect on the strength of the repair.
Forgot to tell you. Firing heavy recoiling rifles in lead sleds will do this breakage. I have witnessed big guns shear scope base screws, bend action screws, and even bending recoil lugs (700 style) beyond repair. I think the aerospace engineer quoted "moment of inertia".
Fixing up a stock i mucked up lastnight. Thought it was all good but didnt jog out enough wood and put too much epoxy and nit must have set up quick because when i put the action into the stock it wasnt fitting correct. I didnt tie it down but to lte. I put the stock it abit crooked and jb welded it. Took it apart lastnight and it was stickng on one side off the stock. Tore the entire rail off one side. Glued ne piece already. 2 more pieces and rebed the rifle. Im using epoxy to mend it instead of wood glue. Also later on ilk be driling holes and adding my own metal splints and glue. I m not to worried as its a cheap wood on this stock and super dry. Almost like a dry piece of wood how it sounds whe tapped on the ground. But i have confidence in myself to fix it and I think all i wanted was a gun to work on and it didnt mattter if the release agent got squished out I can fix it. If i have to ill find an old stock and refit it nmyself, easy. Done it before and worked out nicely. Fixed the draws in a rear end of a 303 british stock and also fixed up bust and broken stock s before so i know what needs to be done. Fun fun.
Excellent restoration of a stock that but for this repair would not be serviceable, it is now stronger than when new, and the repair is almost invisible, I usually file a small flat down any repair dowel to allow the air to escape when pushed it the hole, but in this case the hydraulic action must have served to force epoxy into any other fault lines in the stock, another one saved by your skill and patience ! Chris B.
Thanks Chris! To me, the key is to try to keep air out of the bottom of the hole. In my experience, any air in the bottom of the hole only pushes out the epoxy. Techniques to get air out: 1) Put epoxy in the bottom of the hole with a long needle, epoxy pushes air out. 2) Use a threaded rod to auger the epoxy into the bottom of the hole (this worked extraordinarily well in the deep hole) or 3) Drill a relief hole into the bottom of the hole drilled for the dowel to let air escape.
@@thecinnabar8442 I think your idea of using the threaded rod is a perfect solution, not only does it allow the escape of air, but turned in anti clockwise it spreads the epoxy throughout the hole, at the same time the rough outside of the rod gives an excellent bond with the wood, also, being steel, it can be slightly smaller in diameter for the same strength, an all round winner ! Stay safe! Chris B.
Mark, this was really fun to watch! I’m curious if the repair would have been the same if it had come to you immediately after the break, prior to the original repair. Essentially, would you have glued it before the repairs you did, or done it all at once? Awesome content!
I would have glued it first and let it set up before reinforcing. Because it was completely broken, it would have been hard to keep the pieces in place while reinforcing it. If it was just cracked, I'd do it all at once.
I'll tell you something right now a 45 / 70 is my most favorite cartridge to shoot I love it. I have a Shiloh Sharps right now but I can't hold it or shoot it off hand. It's a beautiful rifle but I'm about to trade it for a rabbit ear double barrel 12 gauge shotgun and with that I can also shoot various cartridges in various sizes with the adapters that go in the 12-gauge. I still have my Hawken 50 caliber and with the combination of the two between one or the other I should be able to drop a deer. Now I'm going to have to find me something to shoot my 45 / 70 cartridges. I certainly wish it could be a lever action, I'm in love with lever action rifles but I suppose if I find something like a Henry single shot I'll buy it anyway that is a most beautiful rifle I fell in love with it when I first saw it but love doesn't win this time. Alright y'all have a great day stay safe and keep your powder dry! PS, if you've got one you want to trade for my Shiloh Sharps just let me know I'd be delighted to drive out to Oregon I used to live there. Thanks a lot thanks again for the video
my granddad and my dad showed me a trick a trick on how to get the glue back into the bottom of the hole when you cant drill a bleeder hole in and that was to make a small trough along the dowel and fill your hole then push your dowel rod until it bottoms out and the access flows back out thru the trough you cut into the dowel rod. I've used this trick a lot and it's never falled yet good luck Dave in Elko also I forgot tto mention when you do it this way it leaves no air pockets- Dave
Wonder if a horse was involved with that busted stock? I have a 62 that cracked and I used epoxy internally to stop it from running further. Also have a little single .410 that was repaired with pins about 90 or so years ago that has opened up due to humidity fluctuating over the years.
Great Video Mark, by the way what's the story on that 1895 Saddle Ring Carbine you have hanging in the back of your workshop? Planning to restore that? Pleasure watching your videos.
Thanks Celso! That one burned in a family member's house fire in the 1940's. Many years ago, before I had the slightest idea what I was doing, I put some wood on it and made a wall hanger of it. Sadly, it got far too hot to ever make a shooter of it. Thanks so much for watching our channel
Those gunsmith vises used to be made by Will-Burt and were very good quality. They no longer make them, but Midway sells a cheaper reproduction of them.
Acra Glass is epoxy. I've used it quite a bit and have some in the shop. I don't find it to be better than commercial grade epoxy, only more expensive. Relief cuts in the dowel will only let the epoxy be pushed out by the air in the bottom of the hole. Any air is the last thing to leave. The trick is to get the epoxy in the bottom of the hole instead of air. The two methods shown (long syringe and auger) are the methods to accomplish this.
@@thecinnabar8442 I have found the thin Acra Gras goes into cracks better than conventional epoxy, and the dye helps with the appearance. The thick Acra Grass stays put. The grooves in the dowels and threaded rod hold more glue and not push it out of the joint, have even drilled a hole down the center of the dowel. Great rifle and repair!
Do you use a threaded rod slightly undersize of the drilled hole? I am getting ready to repair an old double 16 Guatemalan side by sided broken stovk Great video!!!
What size pins did you use ? The drill bit seemed rather large . I hv a custom stock I need to do this to . I hv an Enfield action that was rechambered in 300 Weatherby magnum . It has several cracks from the tang acting as a wedge (like you mentioned) , and also a cpl cracks forward of the trigger guard ... I was thinking of using 1/8" brass rod to reinforce it after drilling . Do you think that would be sufficient?
1/8" brass rod should be fine. Make sure that the stock inletting isn't causing the recoil to be taken by the back of the tangs. That splits a lot of stocks. I don't do bolt action rifle stocks, but Mark Novak does a lot of military surplus stocks on his channel. There's some great info on properly bedding the actions there.
@@thecinnabar8442 ok , will check out his channel ,, and thank you for your response ... BTW , I think I like your idea of using the threaded rod better ! Seems like it would have more "bite" , thanks again ...
I have a savage 99 with that notorious Tang crack is that something you would be interested in fixing for me so it doesn’t crack any further I’m located in Michigan
I'm sorry, but I'm a little overwhelmed with work at the moment. I'd suggest looking for a local gunsmith for the work and save the hassle and expense of shipping your firearm.
@@thecinnabar8442 oh, I see I was thinking I could just ship the stock itself and not the complete firearm to avoid the FFL transfers thank you anyways and have a great day
Ok Mr Mark, your an indian brave and your horse steps in a gopher hole and falls on your rifle breaking it just like the one you repaired, he takes it back to camp and gives it Fix-A-lot to repair. From what you've seen in the collector world how would he fix it? You spoiled me rotten today, 5 of your videos, wish you had repaired my Marlin 93 that a horse actually did roll on and break. Thanks.
That brave would most likely have used a rawhide wrap and tacks. Put the rawhide on while moist and it shrinks as it dries and makes a very strong repair.
Yes! Traditional ways for a traditional rifle, what would this lovely old rifle look like with a fibreglass sheath wrapped around the wrist! This repair technique is almost invisible, and as strong as it was when new, what more could you want? Chris B.
As a carpenter who owns a variety of laser line levels, it came to me I could set up a line laser on the side and one above to keep the drill bit straight as it goes in. I don't trust my aiming skills with that long of a bit... haha. You make a great instructional video. I think I can apply what I have learned watching in a Miroku shotgun I own that has crack in the same place. Thanks very much
When I went to GS school we were taught to cut a shallow spiral around the dowel.
Thanks for the tip, Jim. To me, the key is to try to keep air out of the bottom of the hole. In my experience, any air in the bottom of the hole only pushes out the epoxy. Techniques to get air out: 1) Put epoxy in the bottom of the hole with a long needle, epoxy pushes air out. 2) Use a threaded rod to auger the epoxy into the bottom of the hole (this worked extraordinarily well in the deep hole) or 3) Drill a relief hole into the bottom of the hole drilled for the dowel to let air escape (I'm not a big fan of this method, because it's too easy to miss the hole).
A good trick to use on wood dowels, is to pinch them along it's length creating long grooves where the glue/epoxy can get into the make the fix stronger. That threaded rod is a good idea too.
Thanks for the tip.
I've had good results filing a small V groove along the dowels length, making a channel for air and epoxy to squeeze out.
I think I would make a pilot hole.
Great instructional, big help. I Love those 45/70 winchesters. Thank you for putting this together
You're very welcome!
Nice repair all the way.
That is the best explanation and completion of stock wrist reinforcement I have seen on You Tube. The care, experience and enthusiasm of the presenter are great to behold. Thank you so much! Perry P., SoCal.
Thanks a bunch, Perry! Glad it was helpful!
Always look forward to your new videos on your channel. What a great rebuild!
Wonderful job!
I enjoy watching these videos. Thanks.
Thanks Mark. Good job as always.
You are an artist ! Beautiful work!
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Great video! Great old gun!
Thanks Mark. Love to learn from you. Your channel is creating a library with a wealth of knowledge we wouldn’t be able to afford otherwise. Keep up the great work and see you next time.
Most informative! Thank you.
keep up the good work, with your quality videos, the channel will become huge I'm sure.
This work is extremely impressive!
Artisan level.
Always amazing 👍
Very good video, thanks.
Fantastic old rifle!
Thanks for sharing!
Great repair job
quite a kick on that too. great video. Subscribed
Great video. I absolutely love your content and commentary. Thanks for what you do!
Thanks Todd! Glad to hear you like the channel.
Great job Mark, as well as a great video!
Thanks Ed!
Can't beat the feel of a good worn in hickory shirt !
Fixing a broken stock on a Browning 725. The stock screw was loose when fired and split the ends off. Not enough to drill straight in. Had to pin it from the sides, trying to hide it the best I can. He needs it to practice for continental and will get a replacement later.
Good work and great video again.
Learning a lot and having fun, with every one video You make.
Thanks Mark
You're very welcome Hasan!
Well done Mark. Another great video.
Thanks Mark!
Fabulous video Mark, Thanks a lot. 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome repair great video
Thanks Steven!
That is is great repair. Never ceases to amaze how much can be saved by those with the skill and know how. I am absolutely jealous of “John” having such a sweet 1886 in 45/70! Happy trails to you as well and enjoy that rifle John.
Great video as always.
Nice work, i enjoy seeing pride in workmanship.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it
Another great job on another great rifle. All the best.
Thanks, Gary!
Great Mark! so nice to see how you solved this problem. Exactly as I would do it… But I did learn something new about the finish. I always like the combination of steel and wood, especially with this Winchester. Superbe!
Always nice after a hard days work to lay down and watch one of your videos.
Glad to hear it, Miles
Great gun and very good work!
Thanks Rooster!
Thanks Mark, gotta love the old Winchesters !
You bet
I'm about to set about restoring my great grandmother's Winchester 1906 (made 1926) and it's had a crack just like this one for about twice my lifetime maybe even longer than that. I'm going to have to use smaller drill bits and dowels but this was really helpful for how to go about doing it! Now I need to decide how far I want to restore it and how much patina to leave. I think I'll ask dad and grandpa before I do anything past a deep clean though, since it was theirs' before it was mine. I'd like to re-blue or even possibly plate it. I think case hardened would be my choice but I don't want to retemper almost hundred year old iron.
Great video, thanks!
You're very welcome, Glenn!
Thanks for your channel.
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching.
Very good learning experience thanks.
You're very welcome, Errol!
Working on fixing some hairline cracks in an 1897 winchester stock. Thanks for the tips. You are a beast. God bless sir
Another excellent video coach. And a nice repurposing use of a udder needle.
Thanks, Traves!
Nicely done Mark!
Thanks Bill. I've been watching some of those same kinds of repairs on your channel.😃
@@thecinnabar8442 thank you Mark. I am still learning every day. This was a good one!
Great Video! I sure like watching how you fixed up the 86. The wood dowels will definately make the stock alot more sturdy. I've used them in the past. I liked how you even stained them. Perfect touch! Thank you for posting!!
Thanks Dave!
Great video
Thanks, Richard! Glad you liked it.
Thanks Mark! I was just getting over my infatuation with the 1886 and my desire to add one to my collection. However, now I'm starting to look for a new addition. I won't get as lucky as I did with my 1873...that was a steal. Keeping the search to 45/70 keeps that cost up there a little more. Thanks for the tutorial!
You're very welcome, Chief!
Morning, just watching your video, great as always. A tip i got years ago for keeping a drill bit level, is to put a large washer on the drill bit, and as you drill, it will move back and forwards depending on wether you are tipping the drill bit up or down
If it stays where it is your level, always works for me and used the idea for years.
Still waiting for a video about caliber and bullet size explanation like this one, an 18/86 ? In 45/70?
Regards Richard 🇬🇧
Thanks Richard! That's a great tip. I have to admit that I was nervous about drilling that deep hole straight and not out the side of the stock.
@@thecinnabar8442 I'm glad that happens to other people, i used to think it only happened to the inexperienced 😄. Lovely rifle though.
Regards Richard 🇬🇧
Great video , I've done similar repairs and something that really helps is the use of dowels with grooves , like somebody mentioned below, because on top of making it stronger it also helps the air to come out of the drilled hole when inserting the dowel i also clean the hole with some compressed air before inserting the dowel , i just use the kind that comes in a bottle used to clean keyboards . thanks for your videos
I'd be so nervous to attempt a repair like that. But, you know what yer doin. And I would not have a clue! Beautiful job. That stock was worth saving! I have many antique firearms, and even a cracked stock is still part of that guns history, and character. Worth saving if you can. Thanks for sharing with us. Great video.
You're very welcome, Jim!
SUPER JOB THANK YOU SIR
Fascinating!!!
Great work Mark! I’ll be sending my 1873 out to you soon. I’m waiting on a couple of items to come in as well as the Cody Letter on the rifle to come in before I ship it out to you. 👍
Sounds good, Benjy! We'll be looking for it.
I love the idea of reinforcing with the all thread. Awesome job saving another beautiful rifle!.
Thanks, Daniel!
Brownells used to have (may still have) threaded brass pins for this job too. It did have the advantage of pulling things together like a wood screw. Your use of all thread here is really a solid re bar method. A hard kicker lever gun stock might benefit from this from new.
Dang! I didn't know Brownells sold threaded pins for this type of work. I thought I had come up with the idea. 😉
@@thecinnabar8442 I've used brass all thread from any good hardware store, but I'd say the steel all thread you used is stronger and probably cheaper.
I know I am a little late for comment but thanks for sharing your technique. A good eye with deep hole gundrilling can't hurt. You only have to ruin one to perfect the method. Good eye man.
The owner could not ask for a better job. You did an amazing job on that stalk. You sure know your stuff. I have always wanted an old gun like that. Is that gun for sale? I'd sure be interested, lol. Great video I always look forward to your videos. Thank you for sharing them. Stay well & safe.
Thanks Thomas. I don't think you could pry this rifle from the owner's hands.
Had to fix a cheap gun rack at the Thompson Hunting Lodge didn't have a dowel handy so I got a bamboo skewer from the chef and used it with some Tightbond wood glue. We'll see what happens, should be good for the rest of the life of the rack. Hopefully! I've been told don't be afraid to mix some of your stain into your linseed oil.
Sounds like a good fix. There were several applications of Timberlux and some of them contained walnut stain to darken the finish to match.
@@thecinnabar8442 you know what you're doing!
It's nice to even blend in the dowels. My thought is someone years from now might think it needs to be fixed and start to do something similar. Since the dowels are covered up.... Maybe It'd be better to leave them without stain as a sign that it had been worked on. . I know it's preferences.
The dowels are still quite visible. They just don't stand out like a sore thumb like they would if they were left "in the white". It's highly unlikely that someone would miss them if working on the stock in the future.
Wood glue does not gap fill, as epoxy does. Also, most epoxy glues are 100% solids (no solvents that evaporate). For this you want a lower viscosity glue to get it to flow and penetrate the wood. Try and get the slowest hardener. I have good luck with Raka epoxy out of Florida. They have everything.
I sand or file a small flat on the side of the dowel to allow the excess epoxy to escape the hole allowing the dowel to go in until the depth mark is even with surface. I don't have to make the flat very wide thus it shouldn't have much effect on the strength of the repair.
Good job, good as new
Thanks Jeffrey!
Forgot to tell you. Firing heavy recoiling rifles in lead sleds will do this breakage. I have witnessed big guns shear scope base screws, bend action screws, and even bending recoil lugs (700 style) beyond repair. I think the aerospace engineer quoted "moment of inertia".
Nice original 1886
Fixing up a stock i mucked up lastnight. Thought it was all good but didnt jog out enough wood and put too much epoxy and nit must have set up quick because when i put the action into the stock it wasnt fitting correct. I didnt tie it down but to lte. I put the stock it abit crooked and jb welded it. Took it apart lastnight and it was stickng on one side off the stock. Tore the entire rail off one side. Glued ne piece already. 2 more pieces and rebed the rifle. Im using epoxy to mend it instead of wood glue. Also later on ilk be driling holes and adding my own metal splints and glue. I m not to worried as its a cheap wood on this stock and super dry. Almost like a dry piece of wood how it sounds whe tapped on the ground. But i have confidence in myself to fix it and I think all i wanted was a gun to work on and it didnt mattter if the release agent got squished out I can fix it. If i have to ill find an old stock and refit it nmyself, easy. Done it before and worked out nicely. Fixed the draws in a rear end of a 303 british stock and also fixed up bust and broken stock s before so i know what needs to be done. Fun fun.
Excellent restoration of a stock that but for this repair would not be serviceable, it is now stronger than when new, and the repair is almost invisible, I usually file a small flat down any repair dowel to allow the air to escape when pushed it the hole, but in this case the hydraulic action must have served to force epoxy into any other fault lines in the stock, another one saved by your skill and patience ! Chris B.
Thanks Chris! To me, the key is to try to keep air out of the bottom of the hole. In my experience, any air in the bottom of the hole only pushes out the epoxy. Techniques to get air out: 1) Put epoxy in the bottom of the hole with a long needle, epoxy pushes air out. 2) Use a threaded rod to auger the epoxy into the bottom of the hole (this worked extraordinarily well in the deep hole) or 3) Drill a relief hole into the bottom of the hole drilled for the dowel to let air escape.
@@thecinnabar8442 I think your idea of using the threaded rod is a perfect solution, not only does it allow the escape of air, but turned in anti clockwise it spreads the epoxy throughout the hole, at the same time the rough outside of the rod gives an excellent bond with the wood, also, being steel, it can be slightly smaller in diameter for the same strength, an all round winner ! Stay safe! Chris B.
Cut s ome screws tips off maybe and use the screw as metal stud in the wood. Since it has thr eads to grip the glue better.
Mark, this was really fun to watch! I’m curious if the repair would have been the same if it had come to you immediately after the break, prior to the original repair. Essentially, would you have glued it before the repairs you did, or done it all at once? Awesome content!
I would have glued it first and let it set up before reinforcing. Because it was completely broken, it would have been hard to keep the pieces in place while reinforcing it. If it was just cracked, I'd do it all at once.
I'll tell you something right now a 45 / 70 is my most favorite cartridge to shoot I love it. I have a Shiloh Sharps right now but I can't hold it or shoot it off hand. It's a beautiful rifle but I'm about to trade it for a rabbit ear double barrel 12 gauge shotgun and with that I can also shoot various cartridges in various sizes with the adapters that go in the 12-gauge. I still have my Hawken 50 caliber and with the combination of the two between one or the other I should be able to drop a deer. Now I'm going to have to find me something to shoot my 45 / 70 cartridges. I certainly wish it could be a lever action, I'm in love with lever action rifles but I suppose if I find something like a Henry single shot I'll buy it anyway that is a most beautiful rifle I fell in love with it when I first saw it but love doesn't win this time. Alright y'all have a great day stay safe and keep your powder dry! PS, if you've got one you want to trade for my Shiloh Sharps just let me know I'd be delighted to drive out to Oregon I used to live there. Thanks a lot thanks again for the video
Thanks Terry! I know someone who is interested in a new Shiloh Sharps. What kind of condition is yours in?
my granddad and my dad showed me a trick a trick on how to get the glue back into the bottom of the hole when you cant drill a bleeder hole in and that was to make a small trough along the dowel and fill your hole then push your dowel rod until it bottoms out and the access flows back out thru the trough you cut into the dowel rod. I've used this trick a lot and it's never falled yet good luck Dave in Elko also I forgot tto mention when you do it this way it leaves no air pockets- Dave
If you were to cut a groove along the length of the dowel, that would allow the air to escape.
That would have been elk steaks for sure there are the end!
You could cut a groove in the dowel to let the excess glue to travel down it
i wish i had an old lever gun but you do not see them here in the midwest but i do have some henry lever guns
Beautiful and engineered repair! Where do I get the Timberluxe as I could not find it on Amazon?
Wonder if a horse was involved with that busted stock? I have a 62 that cracked and I used epoxy internally to stop it from running further. Also have a little single .410 that was repaired with pins about 90 or so years ago that has opened up due to humidity fluctuating over the years.
Been useing accraglass
Great Video Mark, by the way what's the story on that 1895 Saddle Ring Carbine you have hanging in the back of your workshop? Planning to restore that? Pleasure watching your videos.
Thanks Celso! That one burned in a family member's house fire in the 1940's. Many years ago, before I had the slightest idea what I was doing, I put some wood on it and made a wall hanger of it. Sadly, it got far too hot to ever make a shooter of it. Thanks so much for watching our channel
Howdy Mark! Another good video. What make is that fine vise?
Those gunsmith vises used to be made by Will-Burt and were very good quality. They no longer make them, but Midway sells a cheaper reproduction of them.
Why not cut reliefs in the dowels to allow air to get out. Why not use Acra Glas?
Acra Glass is epoxy. I've used it quite a bit and have some in the shop. I don't find it to be better than commercial grade epoxy, only more expensive. Relief cuts in the dowel will only let the epoxy be pushed out by the air in the bottom of the hole. Any air is the last thing to leave. The trick is to get the epoxy in the bottom of the hole instead of air. The two methods shown (long syringe and auger) are the methods to accomplish this.
@@thecinnabar8442 I have found the thin Acra Gras goes into cracks better than conventional epoxy, and the dye helps with the appearance. The thick Acra Grass stays put. The grooves in the dowels and threaded rod hold more glue and not push it out of the joint, have even drilled a hole down the center of the dowel. Great rifle and repair!
Do you use a threaded rod slightly undersize of the drilled hole? I am getting ready to repair an old double 16 Guatemalan side by sided broken stovk
Great video!!!
Yes. It needs to be a slightly smaller diameter than the hole. Good luck with your project!
What size pins did you use ? The drill bit seemed rather large . I hv a custom stock I need to do this to . I hv an Enfield action that was rechambered in 300 Weatherby magnum . It has several cracks from the tang acting as a wedge (like you mentioned) , and also a cpl cracks forward of the trigger guard ... I was thinking of using 1/8" brass rod to reinforce it after drilling . Do you think that would be sufficient?
1/8" brass rod should be fine. Make sure that the stock inletting isn't causing the recoil to be taken by the back of the tangs. That splits a lot of stocks. I don't do bolt action rifle stocks, but Mark Novak does a lot of military surplus stocks on his channel. There's some great info on properly bedding the actions there.
@@thecinnabar8442 ok , will check out his channel ,, and thank you for your response ... BTW , I think I like your idea of using the threaded rod better ! Seems like it would have more "bite" , thanks again ...
Mark could you use a vacuum chamber and epoxy like I use on knife handles to do this repair?
I've not seen one used, but it sounds like it could be promising. It's always tough to get the epoxy into the cracks.
I have a savage 99 with that notorious Tang crack is that something you would be interested in fixing for me so it doesn’t crack any further I’m located in Michigan
I'm sorry, but I'm a little overwhelmed with work at the moment. I'd suggest looking for a local gunsmith for the work and save the hassle and expense of shipping your firearm.
@@thecinnabar8442 oh, I see I was thinking I could just ship the stock itself and not the complete firearm to avoid the FFL transfers thank you anyways and have a great day
Ok Mr Mark, your an indian brave and your horse steps in a gopher hole and falls on your rifle breaking it just like the one you repaired, he takes it back to camp and gives it Fix-A-lot to repair. From what you've seen in the collector world how would he fix it?
You spoiled me rotten today, 5 of your videos, wish you had repaired my Marlin 93 that a horse actually did roll on and break. Thanks.
That brave would most likely have used a rawhide wrap and tacks. Put the rawhide on while moist and it shrinks as it dries and makes a very strong repair.
Am I the only one that has a scratch pad to take few notes while learning ?
Acraglass.
Acraglass is epoxy. I don't find it to be any better than commercial epoxies, only more expensive.
So do you ever take people stuff and fix them ? Let me know I ship mine to you?
Yes. You can find my contact information on our website: WWW.CinnabarGunworks.com
All i have is one made in japan with the stupid safty and rebounding hammer
Those are traditional ways
but what about how
they make cedar-strip
canoes -- transparent
fiberglass and resin
sheathing
Are you asking about the feasibility of using that technique to repair gunstocks?
Yes! Traditional ways for a traditional rifle, what would this lovely old rifle look like with a fibreglass sheath wrapped around the wrist! This repair technique is almost invisible, and as strong as it was when new, what more could you want? Chris B.
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If done right it would look just like the original but 100+% stronger
@@bumpercoach I cannot see how an 1886 with a wrapped glass fibre stock could look original, how would you achieve that ?
watch some "cedar strip canoe building" vids@@453421abcdefg12345