I would just like to say Big Jim’s Bows are some of the most Beautiful Bows in the World ! I’m going to save up to get a two piece someday, his are just Great !
I can't believe the difference in my arrow fight after adding the 2nd nock. Immediate results. Frustration over!!! Everything you described was spot on. Good video, glad I happened on it
Jim, I really like how clearly you explain why you do things. Also you do not presume we are all 20 years old with perfect eyesight. Thanks.
You seem to be such a wholesome and likeable guy.
I adore your craftsmanship.
One day I´ll be able to afford a thunderchild.
Looking forward to it.
Greetings from germany.
Thank you so much Big Jim for sharing this information. I for one, didn't know most of what you talked about until now. Thank you.
Thanks Jim that helps a lot I’m loving the TC !
Great job BigJim. Good looking bow with a good looking string!
Very helpful! Thank you Big Jim
Thanks, Big Jim! I'm brand new to the idea of tuning, so I really appreciate you going over some of the signs to look for and what they mean.
Thanks Big Jim for the information it looks like I’ve got some tuning issues
some great advice and tips thank you. I recently was persuaded by an Archer friend to set my nock slightly lower . This week I noticed that some of my arrows had tattered edges and there was a new wear mark on the edge of my shelf .I also noticed that I had an occasional porpoising arrow flight too . Now , thanks to your advice I know why , so I'll readjust my nock point up again and retest .
Big Jim, thanks for this video! I've watched a couple of hundred archery videos, and this is the first that has covered this part of a specific topic.
I thought my nock was low. And lately I see the outside of the plate is wearing. I never grasped one to be the cause of the other. Now I can get it tuned (I'm still a novice) and get back on track. Thanks.
BTW, I cant wait till you tell me the time has come to build my bow!
I like this series of videos
I set a second knot point like you said cause I'm a 3 under sheer It improved my groups tremendously thanks very much
Good tips! I’ve been shooting 3 under with a single nock point and will now be adding a second point!
Great advice. I lowered mine thinking it needed to be, but could not get perfect flight. After noticing wear on the outside of my rest, I moved it up to 3/4” ( 3 under) and just like that! Perfect arrow flight! Thanks
Great explanation!
Hey Big Jim. I am loving the recent uploads. Can you do a video on shot sequence, anchoring and form. I really like your practical, common sense approach.
Awesome thanks for the tips. I’ve not seen a rubber nock or stopper
Man when that dog walked across the range I thought you had a moving bear target
Dude. I just spent the last 2 hours trying to find my nock height and had to give up for the night. Had my bottom knock point way low so I didn't have to adjust them both every time 🤦
Thanks for the tip, I'll try again tomorrow adjusting both the upper and lower nock points together
Will you consider doing video on grips on your bows, how to grip, types etc
Thank you.
Thanks
I am neither a split finger or a three under shooter. I use two fingers. Right handed, i place my index finger above the arrow and my middle finger under my arrow.
I never thought about adding another knock point. I do shoot 3 under but I have noticed my fletchings are getting torn up over time.
So if my feathers are tattering, should I raise my nock height? I always enjoy your vids👍👍👍
It’s true. My bareshafts fly like lazers but I get riser contact
I liked what you said about the tattered feathers due to the fact that they are hitting the shelf, and really shouldn't. You said that they should clear the bow, and I agree with you 100%. Having said that, would you agree that you can shoot vanes off the shelf? That's all I use, I shoot split finger and of course set my nocking point high which really takes any bow/ vane contact out of the equation. Just wondering if you agree or not.
Everyone tells me no, you have to use feathers, but I use vanes and have no problems with them at all. Just my worthless two cents ... anyway God bless you, and thanks for your videos!
If the vanes are working for you.. so be it. They will clear until they don't.
The nice thing about feathers is if they don't clear because of a intermittent form issue, feathers will collapse..vanes won't..
It's your choice, do what makes you happy.. well, with your bow anyway 😄
sure wish i could get my hands on a thunderchild
Great info for 3 under shooters. Jim, where did you get the rubber bumper that is used as the bottom nock?
Hi Big Jim!
I have just started with 3 fingers under, and was told to rise the string nock slightly.
I really tested it for days, and the final result, was that I had to lower the string nock, and increase the brace height a full turn. I found it quite strange, but it works very good.
One thing that needs to mention is, I also rise my anchor from corner of my mouth to my Cheekbone, which make me get the arrow closer to my eye, any comments on this?
Likely something else going on with nock height.. if you aren't using 2 nock points, that would explain why you think it's shooting better lower.
Doubt you will get as consistent of an anchor on your cheek as you would from your k9 tooth
@@BigJimsBowCompany In Sweden you are not allowed to use two nock points on competition.
Thanks for answer, and this 3 under, I decided to give it a try, with also cheek bone for anchor.
And we are not allowed to string walk either while on Competition with Longbow.
Thanks again Big Jim
Does it matter if it is a longbow or recurve?
Thanks for sharing you’re insight again Jim. You mentioned the limbs returning at different rates effectively changing tiller by moving hand position. From a bow making perspective can you recommend how to tell if it is not tillered correctly? If it is way out it’s pretty obvious but I’ve found fine tuning difficult. I’ve made a few bows (thanks largely to your videos) and love the process of refining my perfect bow. Struggling a bit with fine tuning tiller though. I’ve been making the lower limb around 10 percent more draw weight than top which gets the dynamic tiller close to equal but as one limb is stronger than the other is it going to return faster and create imbalance? Any suggestions welcome and a massive thank you for sharing your expertise previously. Absolute legend!
Jim can you show us how you tie your nock set nock point some time? Thanks
Hey John, its called a nail knot and I believe I have a video out there of me doing that.
Thanks, bigjim
Thanks for the information.
What is your opinion of using Nitro Buttons instead of nock points?
@@BigJimsBowCompany
I believe that’s what the rubber thing on your string in this video is marketed as, or at least that’s what 3Rivers markets them as.
Thanks for responding so quickly 🏹
Jim, is that an arrow holder on your bow, if so how does it attach? Is it made of leather? Thanks
It is a stop the. Drop arrow holer made of rubber. Stays put with two sided tape.
Jim do i need two nock points when shooting split finger?
It's not necessary to use 2 nock points for split, but it has been mentioned to me by someone who knows.... that some split finger shooters would benefit from it.
Bigjim
Hi Jim,
I have a question:
For those recerve bows you made, what was the width of their limbs?
Please let me known.
Thank you very much.
I start with 1.75" glass. I take them down to 1.65" before shaping them. Probably finish out around 1.60"
BigJim
Love the information. It's great to have you uploading regularly
Glad you enjoy it!