Budget but Better - Akko 5075S Build
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- čas přidán 9. 08. 2022
- The Akko 5075 might be an excellent prebuilt but that doesn't mean it can't make an even more amazing custom. Today we're swapping the aluminum plate for the PC plate, breaking out the lubed Durock Lilac T1s and topping it off with some amazing Drop MT3 Camillo keycaps. Pull up a chair and hang for a while, will ya?
Pick up the 5075S
en.akkogear.com/product/5075s...
5075S Barebones Kit
en.akkogear.com/product/5075s...
Wireless 5075B
amzn.to/3dZ39zO
Get Durock T1s
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DB7...
Get $10 for joining Drop!
drop.com/?referer=XZWYB7
Get the XOOL Screwdriver Kit
amzn.to/3QPiaTn
Use code PUNKSHOO to save $5 off $15 or more from a great selection of keeb stuffs!
www.kprepublic.com/punkshoo - Věda a technologie
Recording white boards is hard. Thanks for your patience while I struggle to wrangle in the white balance and focus with these bright builds. If you have any tips feel free to comment or just drop one because you're feeling it!
After watching multiple reviews and modding numerous Akko boards for clients, I can conclude that Akko is the "brioche" of keyboards. It's enough of an entry and exit point for people that just want a taste of the good stuff, without spending too much of their time and effort. With that being said, I just might get a 5075S myself. I'll stop being pretentious for a moment, and just enjoy it for what it is.
Thanks for your input on Akko boards. I'm of the belief that once Akko starts dropping south-facing alu kits they will be endgame for many in the budget crowd. Like you said, the plastic boards are very reasonably priced and an easy hook. Progressing onto Mod boards, which are still extremely accessible, is only logical. Going from something like a Mod 007S to something in the GB premium scene is going to have extreme diminishing returns and may not be worth it for many light enthusiasts. Akko's in a really good spot right now.
Is it enough to enjoy it for 5-10 years for someone that just wants a keyboard to?
the build came out beautifully, the colorway is adorable. I really enjoy the way it sounds, quite good and chill.
Keep up the good work bro, you've got a new subscriber here!
Thanks for stopping by and the kind words!
Great watch, and it was a very relaxing build too!
Thanks for checking out my vid and glad you enjoyed it!
top notch just as the audio glitches
It would be much more interesting if you modified the stock keyboard with stock switches instead of adding new switches. Now my akko 5075s has arrived to me, the LEDs seem to be not knocked out. I'm going to lube the stabilizers with a thicker substance and also apply a band aid wrap mod to make them sound a bit more muffled. Also, I plan to make a tape mod, change alum plate to PC.
An interesting fact is that there is not much space inside, so in a free space where there is no silicone, it will not be possible to lay a lot of noise insulation. Our best bet is cotton wool or a very thin layer of foam.
In general, even without modification, I am delighted with the keyboard, the standard wine red are very smooth, but maybe I will change them to Gazzew boba gum, because I like quiet keyboards, and this one is definitely noisier than my old one on cherry silent red .
Thanks for your input. I used my own switches because the ones provided were lighter than my preference and I actually want to use the board. There's really nothing fancy about just reusing the Wine Reds. Only thing you can do is lube them anyway. Also, the stock stabs are great as-is. They use the new Akko plate mounts that are already pre-dampened. You don't need to mod them. Just lube them. Lastly, there is plenty of room in the case for a 1-2mm thin piece of neoprene or poron as showcased in the video. Go 2mm compressible foam if you want a heavily muted sound. Don't use anything rigid.
I'm having a really hard time deciding between this or the PC75 from Akko for my first entry into the mechanical keyboard world.
PC75B is tray mounted and does not have plate options. The case is semi-transparent and has perimeter leds where the 5075 has side leds and an opaque case. Lastly the PC75B has wireless connectivity and the 5075S comes with shine through keycaps. Outside of that they are quite similar.
Great Video! Would you recommend this board over epomaker’s TH80 and next time 75, or are there any other boards at this form factor that you recommend
Hi and welcome! This is a great board and has its good and bads vs the other boards you mentioned. Its subjectively better than the NT75 plastic boards but may be considered slightly inferior to the south-facing sockets of the TH80 if you're not going to use the RGB. For other boards I strongly suggest taking a look at the channel as a whole. 75% exploded knobbed is my favorite layout so most of the videos are going to be just that. Thanks for stopping by!
@@punkshoo Thank you for a great response I just wanted to ask how is the rgb on this board if do intend to use different keycaps as I’m thinking of the 5075s barebones kit would be a nice kit to lightly mod.
The RGB is amazing. Check out the video I did on the prebuilt 5075S with Akko's own shine through keycaps.
czcams.com/video/mWaQBspm0BI/video.html
I’m a beginner for these kind of things and i’ve been deciding whether I should get the feker ik75 or the 5075b plus. I’m leaning towards the 5075b plus, although i’m afraid of the LEDs falling 🙁. I’ve heard that the ik75 is better than the 5075b, got any advice?
They're both great options and carry nearly 1:1 features. I find the gasket mount on the 5075 to be quite a bit better and the added RGB side lighting is really nice. I wouldn't worry about the LEDs falling off. That was an early issue and I have not heard about it happening since Akko corrected the shipping issue. You can really go wrong with either board, though. Check out the T83 video I did a couple weeks ago for a really killed IK75 white label prebuilt. Thanks for watching!
that elephant deskmat is dope where’d u get it from?
Glad you like it. You can get it here: amzn.to/3zbg75f
I'm new to this, but I bought this board, and I'm looking at GMK Arctic Keycaps, there should be no compatibility issues with these right?
Hi and thanks for checking out my content! GMK keycaps are Cherry profile and generally have interference issues with north-facing switches. You can mitigate this by using long-pole switches, switches with Cherry profile interference mitigation (notched/angled top housing), or doing various mods (paper mod, 3D printed cap insert, etc). So, yes, by default interference may be an issue but since there are so many ways to avoid it in the modern enthusiast landscape its almost a non-issue.
cant decide weather i should get this or v1
If you need QMK/VIA and plan to use a switch/keycap combination that is prone to interference then get the V1. If you don't requite that and want the RGB, gasket mount, and plate options then get the V1. They're are both very good budget options.
Which plate for Akko 5075s Is better for gaming? Aluminum or pc plate? I'm confused after buying one😅
Plate is going to have zero impact on your ability to game. Pick whichever is more comfortable to you in sound and feel.
Would you recommend this or the Keychord v1 for new people or people who just want a stock keyboard?
This all day. The included switches, keycaps, and stabs are great for anyone looking to get into the hobby without having to dive into the deep end right away.
Hey punkshoo. I’m a big fan and been was wondering if you could to a review in the ltc nimbleback. I want to know if it is a nice board
Thanks for stopping by and for your support! I have no intention of picking up a Nimbleback since its already quite dated and there are a ton of review, mod, and teardown videos on it. If someone wants to send me one to take a look at I will happily do so but I just don't see a need for it out of pocket when so many other great creators have already done that.
Rk84 or ep84
Jk I’m not that weird guy on discord
You Didn’t tell me rk84 or ep84 cmon man I just wanted a pro’s perspective
Looks like the Dierya T83, Fekker IK75 clone. How different was it?
It has down firing RGB that allows it to fire out the site windows of the case. The software is miles ahead of the Feker and Dierya offerings as well. This was also out before the Dierya but I would agree that it closely resembles the multitude of other plastic 75% exploded layout knobbed keyboards out there. Clone is a stretch though. Awesome little keeb with its own unique properties. Over a year later and I would still recommend it any day to someone looking at entry level budget boards.
The white version went out of stock and reappeared as a MOD 007 for +$40
Sorry for the delay. The Mod 007, PC75B, and 5075S boards are all completely different. The quality of the injection molding, the molds used, and the mounting systems are different. I am also understanding that the new Mod 007 uses a VIA compatible PCB whereas the others do not.
did you have the snaps problem with your ik75
I did not
What is space bar length? 6.25u? Thx for answer
Yes, indeed.
does this keeb flex? like is it a gmmk pro type of flex (which i have heard of is non-existent) or is it a keychron q1 type of flex, or just in between? (using the pc plate)
With the PC plate its somewhere between the Q1 and GMMK Pro. It has enough flex to reduce the harshness of bottom out but not enough its going to flex under normal keypresses.
@@punkshoo ohh, thanks for the response! i kinda want to try making it a bit softer by replacing the gaskets with the kbdfans d65 gaskets rather than the stock silicone gasket “jackets” provided. do you think that would help to add a bit more flex?
Poron does traditionally provide more flex. Just make sure you're using the right thickness. If its already compressed once reassembled its not going to work like you're wanting.
@@punkshoo yeah, makes sense; i’m planning to use kbdfans d65 gaskets only on the bottom half of the case and not on the top half since the gaskets might compress and just give me a stiffer typing experience. i know i have really asked a lot of questions (lol) but do you think that only gaskets on bottom half would work or should i try placing them on the top half as well?
I would just give it a shot and see if you like it. You can always remove them. I personally would not use any additional gasket material because I really dont think there is any more flex to be gained with extra gaskets. Either use poron OR the provided gaskets. Not both. Thicker gaskets on the bottom usually give more flex so you can go thinner on the top vs the bottom.
did you pick the keycaps up from the drop BOGO?
I got them from Drop, yes
how long is spacebar in this diy kit?
6.25u standard spacebar size.
@@punkshoo thanks
what if you remove gaskets and put a thicker layer of neoprine? That might make it more thocky, what do you think? And is there a way to make it entirely plateless?
The foam is already touching the PCB so more foam wouldnt do a whole lot more. You'd also lose out on any flex at all. And, no, you cannot make it plateless because it is hot swap and your switches would pop out.
Is this keyboard better than the epomaker th80?
Thanks for checking out the video. They are equally as good. Different features more than anything. The TH80 has south facing socket to mitigate Cherry profile keycap issues but the 5075 is a true gasket mounted experience while also offering two plate options and a bunch of different included dampening material.
@@punkshoo But overall between the two which would you recommend?
small alt key kills it for me :(
That's pretty standard for most 75% kits.
wow...................Keycaps are more expensive than keyboards?
Only slightly more expensive than the 5075S barebones if you get them on BOGO.
My LEDs broke off and I contacted them. Problem is that I don't have a soldering iron... I am so disappointed. I also don't like the snap-style of the case, because it just feels like your breaking your keyboard when you try to pry it open, and when you use flat heads, assuming most people don't have proper tools, the plastic just gets a bunch of scratches and small dents.
Sorry to hear about your LEDs. Did you ask them if they could RMA it? Also, the case is actually quite easy to get open after the first time. I've opened mine a handful of times with just my fingers after using spudgers the first time. You can get a tool kit with spudgers and pry tools that won't damage finishes which also comes with a precision driver bit set for less than $10 on Amazon or AliExpress. Hopefully Akko can assist you in some way because I absolutely don't expect everyone to have soldering equipment and know-how. Good luck!