I had this camera back in the 80's and loved it, great piece of kit, virtually indestructible, your video brought back lots of very happy memories. My son is becoming interested in photography, he has a digital SLR. I have just ordered a Zenit online, hope to teach him the Joy's of film and prints. Thanks again for making me smile, not done that in a long time.
Thank you so much, this was extremely helpful. I use my dad's zenit e as well and since he didn't remember what the numbers meant specifically, i've been trying to find the exact info for a long time...
I had to watch this video to learn how the light meter on my Hanimex Praktica nova 1-b worked because it’s exactly the same. Great video makes me want to get one of these too.
Good instructions for this camera. Would like to make one for one notion. With Zenit cameras shutter speeds can be changed safely whenever desired. Shutter can be cocked or uncocked when changing shutter speed.This is mentioned in original Zenit manuals. This rule of changing shutter speeds only after advancing film applies to Fed and Zorki rangefinder cameras, possibly also with older Leicas too.
Thanks for the info! Since this camera circulated for many years and had small variations, I've found 4 different manuals. Only one actually said that the speed can be changed either way. The others didn't mention anything. It's good to know that both ways work in Zenit cameras! Thanks!
Yoo, thank you so so much!! You’re the #1 best source of info on the Zenit EM and E cameras!! At first when researching how to use my Zenit E, i came across your video, but skipped it, because i for some weird reason thought that this video only applies to Zenit EM cameras. But later i returned realizing that the Zenit EM is actually just an update of the Zenit E, and most of its features are the exact same. So huge thx to you for this! Non of the other videos or internet manuals had such understandable info!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH, this video helped me a lot to finally fully understand my great-grandfather's old camera. For the story my great-grandfather was a french communist and would buy anything that came from of the USSR instead of occidentalist products, he even owned a Lada haha
with the lens apeture you can do a simple mod, remove the pin, make a simple washer out of wire (solder wire worked for me) and then reassemble, it keeps the pin down permanently and enables full manual apeture
Hoy adquirí ésta cámara que fue amor a primera vista, no la sabía usar porque es la primera vez que la veía, así que decidí informarme. Muchas gracias, veré en qué estado esta y si está bien la usaré gracias a tu vídeo!! saludos desde Uruguay!!!
just picked up one of these for 5 bucks at a second hand store today! Came with (almost) everything. The only thing I'm missing is the cord for the flash. But, that shouldn't be too hard to find one. Or something that can work at least.
I have a zorki (works the same way). It seems that if you wind 3 times to 0 you will waste a frame. I might have to only wind 2 times to 0 to prevent that next time
Is there another use for that 30-x mode on the shutter speed aside of taking a picture with the flash? I'm not sure if I can use it to while it's too dark for 60
I have this camera. Most of my shots come out perfectly but close to half of every roll I have an issue. The focus will jump out of focus as soon as the shutter is pressed and those shots come out blurry. Any idea why this is happening and how to fix it? Thanks!!
Thank you ! This is super helpful. Do you have any videos on the basics of exposure. My TLR is just set to what I know works but it's so expensive to shoot I don't often stray too far from the perfect light conditions (bright and sunny) ... I have just bought a Zenit EM and I'd like to play with it a bit more and take risks. Your style of explanation seems quite simple. I'd really appreciate an "exposure for dummies" type video
Thanks! If you want to experiment with exposure you can use the "Sunny 16 rule" as a start. The rule is: On a sunny day set aperture to f/16 and shutter speed to the ISO of the film (or the nearest if that speed doesn't exist) for a subject in direct sunlight. By having this as a base, you can play with shutter speed or aperture by compensating one to another by "stops". For example if you want to open the aperture by one stop, you'll have to increase the shutter speed by one stop too. This is the creative part, since you can use the aperture for the desired depth of field and the shutter speed to capture movement or combine those two. I might do some photography tutorials in the future! Stay tuned!
I have a zenit em and recently i took 18 shots on film but after 18 shots the black line on the shutter speed knob shifted and its not matching the current shutter speed which is on the marking. its very complicated as i've to pull the knob and from the rotating distance i've to figure out my shutter speed manually . I hope you get what i'm trying to say..... kindly reply urgently and i always change the shutter speed after winding the film
It sometimes fixes itself after using it a few times at all speeds, including "B". If it doesn't it might need regulation from a technician. Also make sure when you wind for the next frame that you pull the lever all the way to its end.
Hi! Thanks for the video! I recently buy a camera Zenit EM but when I finished 36 photos, the film seems it has no end and I could keep move the film to make more photos What could it happen?. Finally I rewinded the film but I´m worried.
Hi! If you are certain that you have set the counter before taking the first photo ( 2:54 ) and that you have indeed 36 photos taken, then 2 things are possible: 1. When you loaded the film it didn't fit well in the slot on the right ( 1:58 ) and so when you closed the back it wasn't caught in the sprockets and when you advanced the film it didn't move at all. In this case, open the back (*in complete darkness to be sure*) and you will feel that the film is in the same condition as when you loaded it. If so, no photos were taken and you can try loading it again. 2. When the film ended, it snapped/broke from its canister and couldn't roll back. In this case the exposed film will be rolled on the right side spool and it will be difficult to take it out. If this is the case, try the unloading istructions ( 10:48 ) but you need to open the back ***in complete darkness*** and try to find the edge of the film and gently pull it out. If you can't, you'll need to take it to a photography shop to help you.
This might be really stupid, but is it important which side of the film is exposed to the light? I think I might have inserted the film the wrong way around
Yes definitely! Only one side is light-sensitive (has emulsion on) and can capture images. Make always sure you load it correctly. The sides have different colours and texture. The back side is always more glossy.
It's all about helping you focus and see depth of field more clearly. In "M" (Manual) mode, the lens blades open and close based on the aperture you set, so the viewfinder gets darker with smaller apertures. This lets you see how depth of field changes. In "A" (Auto) mode, the blades stay fully open while you're viewing, making it easier to see through the viewfinder. However, when you press the shutter button, the blades close to the chosen aperture.
I just bought this camera and the film advance lever worked once but five minuets later and it’s refusing to move. It moves a little but gets stuck. Does anyone know how I can fix that or if I did something? I can’t see anything in the video that would say that I needed to do something else first
There are many adapters that you can find. The Helios 44M lens is M42 mount. So you need to look for M42 to Nikon Z adapter. Of course the auto focus and auto aperture will not work.
Hi there, great video! I'm having a problem with rewinding where the tension is too strong to move the knob clockwise. I think the shutter button and rewind are fine, both red dots on the R. Any ideas of a solution? :-)
Maybe there is a problem with the rewind lock knob. Don't force it because the film may snap. Try holding down the shutter button instead of twisting it into position, to see if this helps. If nothing happens you can try removing the film by hand. You need to do this in total darkness or use a darkroom changing bag. When you are in total darkness, set the shutter and rewind button to R, open the back of the camera, raise the film rewind knob to release the film cassette carefully and raise the film over the sprockets. Then try to pull it, very carefully until it rolls out. Finally roll the film by hand back to its cassette and hopefully you'll be fine!
@@FilmCameras Hi, thanks so much for the quick reply! I think removing by hand will have to be the way, and I just tried it with my ruined film :-) appreciate it very much! Liked and subscribed.
Hey there, I came across an issue with my model when setting the shutter speed. As I was trying to set the shutter speed, the whole circular thing (not sure what's its called, but where you determine if you want to set 60, or 500 or simply B for the shutter speed) came off. I attempted to put it back into place, and I'm not sure if I put it in the right location. So now when I try changing the shutter speed to 60, I'm not sure if it's actually being placed to 60, and not (as an example) to 500. How can I test to see if I put it back into its right location? Thanks a ton!
To check the speeds you better set it to "B" which is the only way to tell (4:14). But *FIRST* you need to advance the film lever. Only *then* the speed dial will show the correct value. When you do this, set the dial to "B" and see if indeed it functions as it should, that is the aperture stays open for as long as you press the shutter release button. Caution not to move the dial between "B" and 500 (4:02). If you feel that it won't move, don't force it. You will know that you are in one of these values.
For some reason, my model, when setting the ISO, only has the following numbers: 16, 32, 65, 130, 250, 300. What do those numbers mean? They're definitely not the standard ISO I'm aware of
Yes, some older models have these numbers which are actually GOST (ГОСТ) the soviet equivalent to ISO. If you google it you will find GOST to ISO conversion tables. They are not far apart.
In some early models of zenit and other soviet cameras, if you set these the other way round the shutter speed might get stuck, or the speed indication won't match the actual shutter speed. In later models though there is no problem. But the users manual usully say to cock the shutter first.
Normally, for use without flash you can set it to any position you want. But to be sure, I would suggest to avoid X and MF, because there are many variations of the Zenit EM and the manuals do not always agree on that.
I have a question - if anyone has experienced the same. i Just rewound my film as per the instructions in this video (which was very informative thank you!!) however when the resistance stopped on the clockwise turning, there was still film to go into the canister but it was the first few rounds with no images on. Is that weird? or common?
Sometimes, when you rewind the film and the film leader (the first frames with no images on) is released from the take up spool, the tension of the rolled film inside the canister stops. For this reason you should continue rewinding a few times more to make sure that the whole film is inside the canister. But again, no problem exposing (the already exposed) film leader to light.
You can see if it works without using a film. Open the back and try shooting at different speeds and see if the shutter curtains are moving as they should and make sure they don't stay open or are being jammed. You can use any 35mm film, color or negative. For best results use Ilford or Kodak films. But due to the low shutter speeds of this camera, better avoid films above 400 ISO.
There is only one shutter speed knob from which you can change the speed (see 3:42). The dial on the other side is used to set the lightmeter (7:00) and does not affect the shutter itself.
For the shutter speed ring is it the X that I am matching my shutter speed to ? Or the MF? My film is ISO200 so I'm trying to match it to 1/200 but the ring doesn't actually twist that far in either direction?
No. X and MF is for flash units only. The shutter speed dial numbers should be positioned against the small line-indicator at the silver centre of the dial. Look at 3:48 where I set the speed to 1/500. And don't forget: never turn the dial between 500 and B (4:02)
No, unfortunately there is no way to tell. What you can do is advancing a couple of times with the back open when you first load the film to make sure it is taken in the sprockets.
In automatic mode if you turn the aperture ring you will see the blades move only when you've had a small aperture, so they move to the largest (completely open) and then stay there whatever adjustment you make afterwards. They will move to the desired aperture only when you press the shutter release button and go back to full open again. If in Automatic the blades move back and forth exactly as in manual mode, then there must be something wrong and you better take it to a repair shop.
@@FilmCameras Quick update, I unscrewed the aperture part of the lens, hooked the mechanism back on go the aperture pin, and bingo now it works. Took five minutes and I have no prior knowledge of cameras!
No, it is not designed to take double exposures. But after taking a photo you can use the rewind feature - like when the film ends (see 12:02 ) and try to move the film back one frame and then take a 2nd photo on top of the previous. You should make a few tries to see how much you have to turn the film rewind knob (maybe a bit more than half a turn), but it is almost impossible the two images will overlay correctly.
Thanks for your reply. Your video is very good. I have Zenit EM . I was just curious about my previous question about double exposure. Thanks a lot again. 👍
to give you an idea I bought a Zenit ET for 80 euros ( 86 dollar ) which was still in its original packaging, never used, brand new. I think you can find this kind of functional model for 20-30 euros. I won't spend more on these devices, unless I find a model in exceptional condition. These cameras are a great opportunity to get your hands on a Hellios 44 lens, they are generally sold together with the Zenit. So It might be worth it
You will have to compare it either with an external lightmeter, or easier, compare it to a modern digital camera indications. There are also some lightmeter apps for mobiles, but are not always accurate.
The camera's lightmeter is made of selenium which physically degrades over time. So there is no way to recalibrate it. What you might be able to do is compare it to a correct lightmeter and make new notes on the camera's lightmeter indications for the needle. Apart from that you can just memorize some basic rules like the "Sunny f/16 rule" to make proper exposures. But if you use the camera and learn more and more, you will see that eventually most of the times you will not need to use lightmeter to help you. This is why I think that if the rest of the camera works, it is a good one and easy to use for learning film photography.
Usually it snaps at the beginning if it was not properly loaded and the perforations were not caught into the sprockets. Also it might brake when the film ends (in 24 or 36 exposures) and you haven't noticed and force it to take more. If it can't come out easily you should follow the unloading instructions you see in 10:45 and remove it with your hand very carefully! If you want to save any photos you took, you should do this in complete darkness, otherwise all the photos will be ruined.
Its strange but most of these Russian cameras from this era all had the same thing where you had to cock before changing the shutter speed, my Zorki 4K is ghe same 🤔
This is the most useful manual for Zenit EM I've seen, thank you!
Thank you!
@@FilmCameras zinit EM?
My dad used to use this when he was young, I just found it in a box because I'm moving away and decided to start using it too. So thank you so much
this video blew my mind in so many levels
same
I shot 1000’s of pictures with this one (and it’s E predecessor) in the 70’s. Great camera, great memories, both in my head and in my albums …
I had this camera back in the 80's and loved it, great piece of kit, virtually indestructible, your video brought back lots of very happy memories. My son is becoming interested in photography, he has a digital SLR. I have just ordered a Zenit online, hope to teach him the Joy's of film and prints. Thanks again for making me smile, not done that in a long time.
Happy to hear you found my video useful! I hope you will enjoy your camera and the whole process!
Thank you so much, this was extremely helpful. I use my dad's zenit e as well and since he didn't remember what the numbers meant specifically, i've been trying to find the exact info for a long time...
This is one of the best how to videos I have seen on using a camera, love it. Love it.
Thank you!
This is a really useful video, thank you. I just bought one.
I just got a zenit e and had no idea how to use the light meter. This was super helpful
Glad to have helped!
That model was my first SLR in the late 70´s :-) It was pretty good for the price.
I had to watch this video to learn how the light meter on my Hanimex Praktica nova 1-b worked because it’s exactly the same. Great video makes me want to get one of these too.
Good instructions for this camera. Would like to make one for one notion. With Zenit cameras shutter speeds can be changed safely whenever desired. Shutter can be cocked or uncocked when changing shutter speed.This is mentioned in original Zenit manuals. This rule of changing shutter speeds only after advancing film applies to Fed and Zorki rangefinder cameras, possibly also with older Leicas too.
Thanks for the info! Since this camera circulated for many years and had small variations, I've found 4 different manuals. Only one actually said that the speed can be changed either way. The others didn't mention anything. It's good to know that both ways work in Zenit cameras! Thanks!
Yoo, thank you so so much!!
You’re the #1 best source of info on the Zenit EM and E cameras!!
At first when researching how to use my Zenit E, i came across your video, but skipped it, because i for some weird reason thought that this video only applies to Zenit EM cameras.
But later i returned realizing that the Zenit EM is actually just an update of the Zenit E, and most of its features are the exact same. So huge thx to you for this! Non of the other videos or internet manuals had such understandable info!!
Thanks for your feedback! Happy to have helped!
This is an essential guide to this classic Soviet desirable 35mm camera. And also to its quirky controls, a joy to watch, simply done and informative.
I've known this lens for quite a while, but I had no idea about the DoF distance markers. Great video!
Thank you!
THANK YOU SO MUCH, this video helped me a lot to finally fully understand my great-grandfather's old camera. For the story my great-grandfather was a french communist and would buy anything that came from of the USSR instead of occidentalist products, he even owned a Lada haha
Happy to have helped you! Enjoy your great-grandfather's camera!
I have a Zenit-E but this helped so much, thank you!
Brilliant… I’ve now got my grandads so thank you for this video 🤘
with the lens apeture you can do a simple mod, remove the pin, make a simple washer out of wire (solder wire worked for me) and then reassemble, it keeps the pin down permanently and enables full manual apeture
Congrats. I've learned many things with your video ! It's very useful and technical.
Hoy adquirí ésta cámara que fue amor a primera vista, no la sabía usar porque es la primera vez que la veía, así que decidí informarme. Muchas gracias, veré en qué estado esta y si está bien la usaré gracias a tu vídeo!! saludos desde Uruguay!!!
This is Excelent explanation for Zenit. Thank you
Very good video, thank you!
I had a Zenit TTL as my first 35mm SLR. The Helios lenses had surprisingly good glass for a cheap Russian camera
Thank you! This is very usefull and well made.
the best tutorial I've ever seen
Very helpful video, thank you!
just picked up one of these for 5 bucks at a second hand store today! Came with (almost) everything. The only thing I'm missing is the cord for the flash. But, that shouldn't be too hard to find one. Or something that can work at least.
Thank you for introducing me to this camera just got it :)
I have a zorki (works the same way). It seems that if you wind 3 times to 0 you will waste a frame. I might have to only wind 2 times to 0 to prevent that next time
Thanks very helpful indeed :)
Is there another use for that 30-x mode on the shutter speed aside of taking a picture with the flash? I'm not sure if I can use it to while it's too dark for 60
Thanks for the tutorial, it was excellent...but man that music in the background was sooo annoying
Incredible! Thanks much.
I have this camera. Most of my shots come out perfectly but close to half of every roll I have an issue. The focus will jump out of focus as soon as the shutter is pressed and those shots come out blurry. Any idea why this is happening and how to fix it? Thanks!!
Thanks
Thank you!!!❤
Very helpful! Thank you! 🥰
Great explaination skills!
Thanks!
Thousand thanks MAN!!!!!!!
Thank you ! This is super helpful. Do you have any videos on the basics of exposure. My TLR is just set to what I know works but it's so expensive to shoot I don't often stray too far from the perfect light conditions (bright and sunny) ... I have just bought a Zenit EM and I'd like to play with it a bit more and take risks. Your style of explanation seems quite simple. I'd really appreciate an "exposure for dummies" type video
Thanks! If you want to experiment with exposure you can use the "Sunny 16 rule" as a start. The rule is: On a sunny day set aperture to f/16 and shutter speed to the ISO of the film (or the nearest if that speed doesn't exist) for a subject in direct sunlight. By having this as a base, you can play with shutter speed or aperture by compensating one to another by "stops". For example if you want to open the aperture by one stop, you'll have to increase the shutter speed by one stop too. This is the creative part, since you can use the aperture for the desired depth of field and the shutter speed to capture movement or combine those two. I might do some photography tutorials in the future! Stay tuned!
@@FilmCameras Thank you for your reply !
Thank you for this video))
good video! recently i bought one but the shutter speed dial is stuck. When i lift up the dial, it doesn't moves to both sides.
I have a zenit em and recently i took 18 shots on film but after 18 shots the black line on the shutter speed knob shifted and its not matching the current shutter speed which is on the marking.
its very complicated as i've to pull the knob and from the rotating distance i've to figure out my shutter speed manually . I hope you get what i'm trying to say..... kindly reply urgently and i always change the shutter speed after winding the film
It sometimes fixes itself after using it a few times at all speeds, including "B". If it doesn't it might need regulation from a technician. Also make sure when you wind for the next frame that you pull the lever all the way to its end.
very very useful thank you so much
if you want to set iso properly, try using a converter ISO to GOST (gost is that russian word)
Hi! Thanks for the video!
I recently buy a camera Zenit EM but when I finished 36 photos, the film seems it has no end and I could keep move the film to make more photos What could it happen?. Finally I rewinded the film but I´m worried.
Hi! If you are certain that you have set the counter before taking the first photo ( 2:54 ) and that you have indeed 36 photos taken, then 2 things are possible:
1. When you loaded the film it didn't fit well in the slot on the right ( 1:58 ) and so when you closed the back it wasn't caught in the sprockets and when you advanced the film it didn't move at all. In this case, open the back (*in complete darkness to be sure*) and you will feel that the film is in the same condition as when you loaded it. If so, no photos were taken and you can try loading it again.
2. When the film ended, it snapped/broke from its canister and couldn't roll back. In this case the exposed film will be rolled on the right side spool and it will be difficult to take it out. If this is the case, try the unloading istructions ( 10:48 ) but you need to open the back ***in complete darkness*** and try to find the edge of the film and gently pull it out. If you can't, you'll need to take it to a photography shop to help you.
This might be really stupid, but is it important which side of the film is exposed to the light? I think I might have inserted the film the wrong way around
Yes definitely! Only one side is light-sensitive (has emulsion on) and can capture images. Make always sure you load it correctly. The sides have different colours and texture. The back side is always more glossy.
Superuseful, thank you very much
Excellent!
6:31 what Is this for? I dont get why and when should i use this. Can you please explain it more? Thank you.
It's all about helping you focus and see depth of field more clearly. In "M" (Manual) mode, the lens blades open and close based on the aperture you set, so the viewfinder gets darker with smaller apertures. This lets you see how depth of field changes. In "A" (Auto) mode, the blades stay fully open while you're viewing, making it easier to see through the viewfinder. However, when you press the shutter button, the blades close to the chosen aperture.
I just bought this camera and the film advance lever worked once but five minuets later and it’s refusing to move. It moves a little but gets stuck. Does anyone know how I can fix that or if I did something? I can’t see anything in the video that would say that I needed to do something else first
Same problem here
thanks ! super helpful manual. what's the conversion from ISO400 film for this camera? thanks.
ISO 400 would be closer to 350 GOST (ГОСТ). But if you choose 400 on the dial you will be fine.
What will happen if I turn the shutter speed knob between B and 500?
Thankyou anyway
I have got same question!
Can be this be adapted to Nikon F mount and eventually to Nikon Z mirrorless cameras?
There are many adapters that you can find. The Helios 44M lens is M42 mount. So you need to look for M42 to Nikon Z adapter. Of course the auto focus and auto aperture will not work.
Hi there, great video! I'm having a problem with rewinding where the tension is too strong to move the knob clockwise. I think the shutter button and rewind are fine, both red dots on the R. Any ideas of a solution? :-)
Maybe there is a problem with the rewind lock knob. Don't force it because the film may snap. Try holding down the shutter button instead of twisting it into position, to see if this helps. If nothing happens you can try removing the film by hand. You need to do this in total darkness or use a darkroom changing bag. When you are in total darkness, set the shutter and rewind button to R, open the back of the camera, raise the film rewind knob to release the film cassette carefully and raise the film over the sprockets. Then try to pull it, very carefully until it rolls out. Finally roll the film by hand back to its cassette and hopefully you'll be fine!
@@FilmCameras Hi, thanks so much for the quick reply! I think removing by hand will have to be the way, and I just tried it with my ruined film :-) appreciate it very much! Liked and subscribed.
Happy to have helped!
Make video about Flexaret
Hey there, I came across an issue with my model when setting the shutter speed. As I was trying to set the shutter speed, the whole circular thing (not sure what's its called, but where you determine if you want to set 60, or 500 or simply B for the shutter speed) came off. I attempted to put it back into place, and I'm not sure if I put it in the right location. So now when I try changing the shutter speed to 60, I'm not sure if it's actually being placed to 60, and not (as an example) to 500. How can I test to see if I put it back into its right location? Thanks a ton!
To check the speeds you better set it to "B" which is the only way to tell (4:14). But *FIRST* you need to advance the film lever. Only *then* the speed dial will show the correct value. When you do this, set the dial to "B" and see if indeed it functions as it should, that is the aperture stays open for as long as you press the shutter release button. Caution not to move the dial between "B" and 500 (4:02). If you feel that it won't move, don't force it. You will know that you are in one of these values.
For some reason for the shutter speed the "30-X" behaves the same way as the "B". Is this normal or doe it need repaired?
No, it is not normal. "30-x" should be 1/30sec speed. "B" should remain open for as long as you keep the shutter button pressed.
@@FilmCameras I didn’t think so. I’m going to get a repair quote to see if it will be worth the price of having it fixed
For some reason, my model, when setting the ISO, only has the following numbers: 16, 32, 65, 130, 250, 300. What do those numbers mean? They're definitely not the standard ISO I'm aware of
Yes, some older models have these numbers which are actually GOST (ГОСТ) the soviet equivalent to ISO. If you google it you will find GOST to ISO conversion tables. They are not far apart.
Egyszerű: Kuka!:)
3:56 caution 1 - what happens if the shutter speed is set before winding the advance lever??
In some early models of zenit and other soviet cameras, if you set these the other way round the shutter speed might get stuck, or the speed indication won't match the actual shutter speed. In later models though there is no problem. But the users manual usully say to cock the shutter first.
On the flash section, when you say set it to any other position do you mean either X or MF or any spot other than those two positions?
Normally, for use without flash you can set it to any position you want. But to be sure, I would suggest to avoid X and MF, because there are many variations of the Zenit EM and the manuals do not always agree on that.
I have a question - if anyone has experienced the same. i Just rewound my film as per the instructions in this video (which was very informative thank you!!) however when the resistance stopped on the clockwise turning, there was still film to go into the canister but it was the first few rounds with no images on. Is that weird? or common?
Sometimes, when you rewind the film and the film leader (the first frames with no images on) is released from the take up spool, the tension of the rolled film inside the canister stops. For this reason you should continue rewinding a few times more to make sure that the whole film is inside the canister. But again, no problem exposing (the already exposed) film leader to light.
@@FilmCameras that’s perfect thank you! tried and now it’s all in the canister :)
Got one of these for my birthday. Not sure if it works though and doesn't have any film. What type of film do I need? Any specific brand?
You can see if it works without using a film. Open the back and try shooting at different speeds and see if the shutter curtains are moving as they should and make sure they don't stay open or are being jammed. You can use any 35mm film, color or negative. For best results use Ilford or Kodak films. But due to the low shutter speeds of this camera, better avoid films above 400 ISO.
can anyone tell me why do we have 2 shutter speed dials?
There is only one shutter speed knob from which you can change the speed (see 3:42). The dial on the other side is used to set the lightmeter (7:00) and does not affect the shutter itself.
For the shutter speed ring is it the X that I am matching my shutter speed to ? Or the MF? My film is ISO200 so I'm trying to match it to 1/200 but the ring doesn't actually twist that far in either direction?
No. X and MF is for flash units only. The shutter speed dial numbers should be positioned against the small line-indicator at the silver centre of the dial. Look at 3:48 where I set the speed to 1/500. And don't forget: never turn the dial between 500 and B (4:02)
@@FilmCameras Ah I see! Thanks you're a life saver. I didn't know which line I was meant to be looking at at all
Is there any way to know the film is loaded properly? (for example something spinning when moving the film lever etc)
No, unfortunately there is no way to tell. What you can do is advancing a couple of times with the back open when you first load the film to make sure it is taken in the sprockets.
Watch the rewind spindle it should move if correct.
Another question, when I switch the lens to automatic I can still see the diaphragm blades move. Any idea why this would be?
In automatic mode if you turn the aperture ring you will see the blades move only when you've had a small aperture, so they move to the largest (completely open) and then stay there whatever adjustment you make afterwards. They will move to the desired aperture only when you press the shutter release button and go back to full open again. If in Automatic the blades move back and forth exactly as in manual mode, then there must be something wrong and you better take it to a repair shop.
@@FilmCameras Thanks for the reply
@@FilmCameras Quick update, I unscrewed the aperture part of the lens, hooked the mechanism back on go the aperture pin, and bingo now it works. Took five minutes and I have no prior knowledge of cameras!
That's great! Have fun!
i cant rotate the button to rewind positon
Try and see if you can rewind the film by keeping the shutter release button pressed with your finger. Otherwise the mechanism might be stuck.
@@FilmCameras thank you very much
Is it possible to take double exposure with Zenit EM ?
No, it is not designed to take double exposures. But after taking a photo you can use the rewind feature - like when the film ends (see 12:02 ) and try to move the film back one frame and then take a 2nd photo on top of the previous. You should make a few tries to see how much you have to turn the film rewind knob (maybe a bit more than half a turn), but it is almost impossible the two images will overlay correctly.
Thanks for your reply. Your video is very good. I have Zenit EM . I was just curious about my previous question about double exposure. Thanks a lot again. 👍
What is the price of this camera?
to give you an idea I bought a Zenit ET for 80 euros ( 86 dollar ) which was still in its original packaging, never used, brand new. I think you can find this kind of functional model for 20-30 euros. I won't spend more on these devices, unless I find a model in exceptional condition. These cameras are a great opportunity to get your hands on a Hellios 44 lens, they are generally sold together with the Zenit. So It might be worth it
@@PepitoMegaChocolato thanks man
How do you test the lightmeter?
You will have to compare it either with an external lightmeter, or easier, compare it to a modern digital camera indications. There are also some lightmeter apps for mobiles, but are not always accurate.
@@FilmCameras cool, thanks. didn't think of that
@@FilmCameras can it be recalibrated if it's not working right?
The camera's lightmeter is made of selenium which physically degrades over time. So there is no way to recalibrate it. What you might be able to do is compare it to a correct lightmeter and make new notes on the camera's lightmeter indications for the needle. Apart from that you can just memorize some basic rules like the "Sunny f/16 rule" to make proper exposures. But if you use the camera and learn more and more, you will see that eventually most of the times you will not need to use lightmeter to help you. This is why I think that if the rest of the camera works, it is a good one and easy to use for learning film photography.
@@FilmCameras hi! can you elaborate more
on how can i use the camera without the lightmeter?
!!
choosing shutter speed before winding is forbidden in cameras like fed or zorkij, zenit don't care about it :P
Good video, but please be gentle with the camera. The are old girls now.
Fuuuuuuck the roll broke what did I do wronngggg
Usually it snaps at the beginning if it was not properly loaded and the perforations were not caught into the sprockets. Also it might brake when the film ends (in 24 or 36 exposures) and you haven't noticed and force it to take more. If it can't come out easily you should follow the unloading instructions you see in 10:45 and remove it with your hand very carefully! If you want to save any photos you took, you should do this in complete darkness, otherwise all the photos will be ruined.
The
Its strange but most of these Russian cameras from this era all had the same thing where you had to cock before changing the shutter speed, my Zorki 4K is ghe same 🤔