I am sure you did it but since everyone else wants to tell you😅 how to do your maintenance, drive it, what products to use and brand of tooth picks to use. I thought I would mention checking the transfercase oil. Whew!!! Glad to get rid of my two cents.lol
I recommend using Baldwin pf7977 instead of wix fuel filter . And yes change the oil filter from up top like that and then it gives u a chance to check on the turbo at the same time 👌
The Baldwin filter is the best you can get for that factory fuel canister. It's supposed to have water separation and filter down to 5 micron. 2 micron is recommended by Bosch. I ran Baldwin for years in my 06 until I could afford a Fass pump. If you go cheap on fuel filters, or neglect them for a common rail, you will need new injectors before you know it $$$ And not changing bad common rail injectors ends up with melted pistons $$$$$$
You got lucky with that year Dodge, later years there's a plate welded in the way that forces you to remove the filter through the wheel well. Fun times.
Don’t forget to check the transfer case. These things are known to have the chains start stretching with poor maintenance and millage. Also grease the driveline u joints including the very hard to find a reach cardon grease port. Look it up some early 3rd gens did not have the cardon grease joint but leaving it un greased is a recipe for disaster.
Thought about putting a moment in for greasing, but didn't want to take too much time. I made a short about greasing suspension parts that will be coming out soon!
On the diff service side, I've seen clean nice looking oil on the top but when I pulled the cover there's usually a crevasse at the bottom of the pumpkin full of grunge😬
Hey brother you probably already know but they make a hand pump for 5 gallon buckets of gear oil. Comes with a little hook on the end. Pop it right in the diff and then pump her full out on the side of the truck. Also they are cheap as hell. Like 40 bucks on Amazon. Can't wait to see more of this truck! I would say it was pretty typical for a used truck.
If you search around online, you can find part interchange numbers so that you can buy all you engine parts at Cummins. My sister had an 07 Ram and there was quite a bit of difference in price
I have a 05 dodge, wish I had a Cummins but IT HAS A HEMI!!! 250,000 miles runs like a champ, has the white that you have on top of fenders, hood, top of door and roof. must have been a bad year for paint for Dodge.
My '03, which only has an upgraded set of injectors, has used the stock filter housing and stock style paper filters for over 640,000 km, but I faithfully change my fuel filter at every second oil change. My '02 is in the same boat, almost 800,000 km and it's only ever used paper filters. The bigger issues on these trucks are the crappy lift pumps and terrible transmissions. When the lift pump leaves the chat, you're going to be replacing an injection pump if you don't catch it quickly enough, a fuel pressure gauge would be a good investment. Not trying to be a critic, I'm jus sayin.
The rear gear oil is low due to the pinion seal leaking. As far as the axle seals go. I don't remember which years had issues with them leaking. My 03 has a pinion seal leak and it has 177k miles. I'd suggest changing all 3 if possible.
If you will just take the oil filter off from the bottom it won't spill. I like the fleetguard LF16035. Fleetguard is a product of Cummins Filtration. I also like the Baldwin fuel filter pf7977. The Baldwin offers down to 5 microns on Filtration. Wix is 10 I think, fleetguard is 7 I believe as well. You can check all of this for yourself because is from another do it yourselfer.
It’s normal overtime for the gear oil in the differential to “evaporate” and be low. The last two trucks I bought had low oil in the rear differential even though there wasn’t any leaks. I topped them off and they were full every time I checked the level after that. The previous owners just never checked the levels of the gear oil.
One more thing on the fuel. If will add a good fuel additive. One that has good lubricity. You will be amazed at how long your injectors will last. My 05 Dodge has 438,000 miles on it. Original everything except the water pump. It quit at 399,000 miles. But like I said do your own investigation.
Love your videos....great buy... Don't know how or why but youtube unsubscribe me from your channel...had to suscribe again, I've heard you tube sometimes does that, so be aware in case it has done that to other subscribers...Pura Vida from Costa Rica and keep it on...
I would get a airdog over fass. When I contemplated which one for my second gen I learned that airdog allows you to change the fuel pressure without tearing anything apart. It’s a simple screw adjustment
But there’s no need to adjust the fuel pressure when its already set! Air dog doesn’t have optional fuel heaters you can get like fass does! Fass makes a dual probe heater set up that threads right into the fass block, one probe heater for each filter. And they also make a sandwich fuel heater plate kit to. Ive heard people say that ‘oh adjustable fuel pressure’ ‘oh you can easily adjust the fuel with easily blah blah’. Look at what the fuel pressure is set at. And look at what you need for each injection pump set up, VE, p7100, Vp44, CP3, cp4, for on and so forth. Im just talking cummins not durajunk, powerchoke etc. cummins only. What fass sets it at is exactly where it should be. Not to high not to low. It doesn’t need to be turned up. If anything for older 12 valve VE rotary pumps and p pumps it would need to be turned down. But to much is always better than not enough lol, your just turning your tank faster at that point and ‘polishing’ your fuel. A fass 165 is gunna turn the tank over about 5 times an hour. A vp44 or cp3 is happy with about 16-18psi fuel pressure at the pump inlet. Anything less than 5psi and a vp44 burns up and it eats itself and goes into self destruct mode. A cp3 wont, it’ll try and suck it. Yeah so every time i hear someone bring up that argument its like ‘really? Really how often are you needing to adjust your inlet pressure up and down?’ How crucial is it for you to adjust from 18 psi down to 14 psi? FASS is one of the best in the industry. They been around longer than air dog. Honestly they are both about the same. Stay away from that cheap raptor crap and in tank pumps. Junk. You want filters you can change. Thats the whole point is better filtration not just better flow. Don’t mess with dropping the tank for q draw straw, just do a sump. Beans diesel has perfected the sump design with a dual port design. The older fass sumps you had to drill 8 separate holes around the sump and get them all to Line up and bolt in to secure the sump to the bottom of your tank. None sense old old design. One 3” hole and your done with a bean’s sump. Its a little scary cutting a hole in the bottom Of your tank! I was a little nervous. The kit came with the hole saw even. Its cool. When i did my fass kit i did the return line where it T’d into the filler neck hose, so i had the second port on the sump free, i used it for a fuel-in feed from the 35 gal in bed aux tank! It just gravity feeds in as the fuel Level slowly drops as its used from driving more from the aux tank gravity feeds in. The dual probe heaters in the fass are nice for winter time here in Colorado where it can drop to -20 to -30 on jan and feb. It has saved my butt. And ira nice knowing your filters aren’t going to ice up and freeze going down the road with your fuel pump system outside the vech bolted to the inside of the frame behind the fender exposed to the elements, not tucked cozy inside the engine bay where it can get somewhat heated by the engine bay heat. Thats the onto downfall to mounting these aftermarket systems where they typically go inside the frame rail. I guess you could mount in in the engine bay, but they want you to put them as close as possible to the tank so the pump doesn’t have to suck fuel as far little as possible. Having fuel heaters is just another insurance policy thats cheap to have, of course if you live in phoenix Arizona then it don’t matter as much.
@@Moose400ex na fass cuts corners. Look at there “comparison” videos against airdog. They legit are cheating in the video and saying air dog is junk. Any company that calls out other products and cheats about it is scummy. And if you’re going more than stock hp you need to adjust fuel pressure. Also who in their right mind used fuel heaters.
I’d get a Fass 165 system on there immediately!Don’t wait. Its cheap insurance. One injector on that 5.9 common rail costs as much as the entire fass fuel system. Your cp3 injection pump is pretty stout. Its not like a vp44, but it still needs a constant steady flow of cool clean filtered fuel. And filtered better than the stock oem filter does. I thinks the stock oem filter setup only filter’s down to 10-15 microns. That’s nit enough. A fass system has 2 filters. The first one is the water fuel separator that filters down to 10 microns. Then the second main filter filters down to 2 microns. I run the larger bigger CAT filters. They are much larger, and they are CAT yellow hang down and look cool to hehe. But they filter a lot smaller, down to one micron! Thats saving your injectors and high pressure cp3 pump! You will be able to delete all the stock Oem crap out of there and it really cleans up the engine bay and frees up a lot of room taking that fuel filter canister crap out of there. I would recommend doing a sump kit with the fass 165. It makes it super easy and there’s no need to drop the tank! Most kits that come with the beans diesel dual port sump even come with the 3” hole saw to cut the hole in the tank. Its super easy. Run the truck down to E all the way and that’ll leave a little less than 5 gal to drain out into a bucket. That stock oem fuel Filter you pulled out looked really bad! Just imagine the nasty fuel going to your expensive injectors! Get a fass 165 and do the beans diesel dual port sump! The second port will be your return line and will Make it easier, no need to t a line into your filler neck or drip the tank to t a line into the top of the factory fuel pump. All that stock stuff can just stay in the tank. You’ll unplug power from it and use that to power your fass at key on. Its super easy to wire up and install, the directions are full color and easy to follow. Budget about $800 for a kit with the sump and everything. Like i said its cheap insurance! And depending on where you live if its super cold fass makes optional ‘probe heaters’ that thread into the block of the fass pump. Youll see two plugged ports on the fass system. Those are for 2 probe heaters. You can run one or 2. They sell a wiring harness that comes with a Y-cable to run the dual probe set up. But basically the heater probes run on a thermostat and heat the fuel before it goes into the filters. As fuel is cycled and ‘polished’ its heated to about 70 degrees total temp of all the fuel In the tank then stops heating. Fass also makes a ‘sandwich heater plate’ that threads on in between the main filter and the fass pump. You could in theory fun that with the 2 probe heaters. Ive got the two probe heaters. Basically its one heater for each filter and keeps them from freezing snd icing up, especially the water separator. I wanna say the probe heater kit is an additional $200 bucks for the 2 probes and Cable and harness that’s all plug and play. Its worth it to me here in Colorado, in gunnison it can get -30 in jan and feb! Anyways hope that info helps! Cause that oem Fuel filter system you for there ain’t doing anything good for your injectors, you saw how nasty it was! And with the milage that that truck is showing, it might just be getting close to needing injectors if you don’t get it filtering better!
You didn't check the Transfer case.. cowboy? And id probably take that diff cover off that rearend and inspect it and clean it out, apply oil proof permatex "obviously" and refill it, If you do it soon you might be ok. But i wouldn't personally let it go too much longer. I worked at Dana world Headquarters in Maumee and their old location in Ottawa Lake Michigan on the test cell cleanup crew around 2001 to 07 they inflict some serious punishing Test cell abuse in the R&D department just pounding them things to no end, hydraulic hoses explode shooting hydro fluid 50 feet every direction, that was fun 😂being said Dana 60s are usually pretty good. Except for the marvelously stupid Dana 44 inner axle seal nightmare they designed, difficult to replace. Cheers 🫡
My man! You don't want to put a car on 4 jackstands. You do 2 jackstands EITHER on front OR rear and chock the wheels that are in contact with the ground, so it don't move. For extra safety you can put your two extra jackstands (or timbers or what have you)under the frame/axel such that if the wheels in contact with the ground should deflate, you got a back up.
You're not a real CZcamsr if you're not using Amsoil. /s From a cranky Ram owner, for the love of god, please fold those mirrors in. The filters are a MF'er. I contemplate a remote mount setup. I pull my filter out from the wheel well opening. I use a ziplock bag to catch the oil. Given the condition of the rear diff plug, I'd be more inclined to pull the cover. The white smoke early on gives me more pause. Not sure who did the tune, but it could be cleaned up so you blow no black exhaust.
Eh I do the same thing. If they are work clothes who cares what color they are? They all end up black eventually if you do enough wrenching on diesels.
OPE. Lots of commotion about the transfer case haha. Don't know why it slipped my mind, so thank you everyone. Checking and changing this morning 🫡
Don’t forget the transfer case!
For the oil filter, they don’t spill out like a gasser. If you get it from the bottom and just keep it upright the whole way out, it won’t spill.
I am sure you did it but since everyone else wants to tell you😅 how to do your maintenance, drive it, what products to use and brand of tooth picks to use. I thought I would mention checking the transfercase oil. Whew!!! Glad to get rid of my two cents.lol
Don't know how that one slipped my mind...Looked good when I changed it this morn 👍
Great find! looking forward to more content on her. I'm original owner of my '04 Cummins. You'll absolutely love it!
I recommend using Baldwin pf7977 instead of wix fuel filter . And yes change the oil filter from up top like that and then it gives u a chance to check on the turbo at the same time 👌
I had to giver a spin and the obligatory "shwoosh" sound haha
I have a 1st Gen Cummins and taking the intake boot off is definitely the way to go to get access to the oil filter.
The Baldwin filter is the best you can get for that factory fuel canister. It's supposed to have water separation and filter down to 5 micron. 2 micron is recommended by Bosch. I ran Baldwin for years in my 06 until I could afford a Fass pump. If you go cheap on fuel filters, or neglect them for a common rail, you will need new injectors before you know it $$$ And not changing bad common rail injectors ends up with melted pistons $$$$$$
Love 5.9 cummins More CONTAIN ❤️ 💕
You got lucky with that year Dodge, later years there's a plate welded in the way that forces you to remove the filter through the wheel well. Fun times.
Mine always seems to be on tighter than I remember putting it on and I have to go through the wheel well to loosen it.
I got a 2007 ram with the 6.7 and I was able to change it out under the hood. I didn’t have to snake through the wheel well or get it from underneath
I always take the air intake off and undue the oil filter from the top. Then fill the filter and put it back on through the top. Easy peasy.
Good to know, thanks!
Don't forget about the coolent and powersteering & brake fluid
Don’t forget to check the transfer case. These things are known to have the chains start stretching with poor maintenance and millage. Also grease the driveline u joints including the very hard to find a reach cardon grease port. Look it up some early 3rd gens did not have the cardon grease joint but leaving it un greased is a recipe for disaster.
Thought about putting a moment in for greasing, but didn't want to take too much time. I made a short about greasing suspension parts that will be coming out soon!
Rear diff level is about a 1/2” below the fill hole. I don’t know why they just didn’t lower the hole. 😅
Decent looking rig should give you years of service
On the diff service side, I've seen clean nice looking oil on the top but when I pulled the cover there's usually a crevasse at the bottom of the pumpkin full of grunge😬
Hey brother you probably already know but they make a hand pump for 5 gallon buckets of gear oil. Comes with a little hook on the end. Pop it right in the diff and then pump her full out on the side of the truck. Also they are cheap as hell. Like 40 bucks on Amazon. Can't wait to see more of this truck! I would say it was pretty typical for a used truck.
Just another one of those tools that I haven't pulled the trigger on yet 😅
@@NockRanch I hear ya buddy! Took me forever to purchase too.
If you search around online, you can find part interchange numbers so that you can buy all you engine parts at Cummins. My sister had an 07 Ram and there was quite a bit of difference in price
I have a 05 dodge, wish I had a Cummins but IT HAS A HEMI!!! 250,000 miles runs like a champ, has the white that you have on top of fenders, hood, top of door and roof. must have been a bad year for paint for Dodge.
My '03, which only has an upgraded set of injectors, has used the stock filter housing and stock style paper filters for over 640,000 km, but I faithfully change my fuel filter at every second oil change. My '02 is in the same boat, almost 800,000 km and it's only ever used paper filters.
The bigger issues on these trucks are the crappy lift pumps and terrible transmissions. When the lift pump leaves the chat, you're going to be replacing an injection pump if you don't catch it quickly enough, a fuel pressure gauge would be a good investment. Not trying to be a critic, I'm jus sayin.
Good input, I appreciate it!
Ive always got to the filter from the bottom, every time i pulled mine its never poured out. Use a long extension and a filter socket and done.
I need one of those filter sockets.
The rear gear oil is low due to the pinion seal leaking. As far as the axle seals go. I don't remember which years had issues with them leaking. My 03 has a pinion seal leak and it has 177k miles. I'd suggest changing all 3 if possible.
Good looking out! Added to the list.
If you will just take the oil filter off from the bottom it won't spill. I like the fleetguard LF16035. Fleetguard is a product of Cummins Filtration. I also like the Baldwin fuel filter pf7977. The Baldwin offers down to 5 microns on Filtration. Wix is 10 I think, fleetguard is 7 I believe as well. You can check all of this for yourself because is from another do it yourselfer.
It’s normal overtime for the gear oil in the differential to “evaporate” and be low. The last two trucks I bought had low oil in the rear differential even though there wasn’t any leaks. I topped them off and they were full every time I checked the level after that. The previous owners just never checked the levels of the gear oil.
Do what you did take out the filter from the top and it won't spill put unless you drop it. Do not have to drain it out first.
knowing me....I'll drop it! haha
cool!
One more thing on the fuel. If will add a good fuel additive. One that has good lubricity. You will be amazed at how long your injectors will last. My 05 Dodge has 438,000 miles on it. Original everything except the water pump. It quit at 399,000 miles. But like I said do your own investigation.
Love your videos....great buy... Don't know how or why but youtube unsubscribe me from your channel...had to suscribe again, I've heard you tube sometimes does that, so be aware in case it has done that to other subscribers...Pura Vida from Costa Rica and keep it on...
Hearing this come up quite a bit! I'll mention in my next video. Thanks!
I would get a airdog over fass. When I contemplated which one for my second gen I learned that airdog allows you to change the fuel pressure without tearing anything apart. It’s a simple screw adjustment
But there’s no need to adjust the fuel pressure when its already set! Air dog doesn’t have optional fuel heaters you can get like fass does! Fass makes a dual probe heater set up that threads right into the fass block, one probe heater for each filter. And they also make a sandwich fuel heater plate kit to.
Ive heard people say that ‘oh adjustable fuel pressure’ ‘oh you can easily adjust the fuel with easily blah blah’.
Look at what the fuel pressure is set at. And look at what you need for each injection pump set up, VE, p7100, Vp44, CP3, cp4, for on and so forth. Im just talking cummins not durajunk, powerchoke etc.
cummins only.
What fass sets it at is exactly where it should be. Not to high not to low. It doesn’t need to be turned up. If anything for older 12 valve VE rotary pumps and p pumps it would need to be turned down. But to much is always better than not enough lol, your just turning your tank faster at that point and ‘polishing’ your fuel. A fass 165 is gunna turn the tank over about 5 times an hour. A vp44 or cp3 is happy with about 16-18psi fuel pressure at the pump inlet. Anything less than 5psi and a vp44 burns up and it eats itself and goes into self destruct mode. A cp3 wont, it’ll try and suck it.
Yeah so every time i hear someone bring up that argument its like ‘really? Really how often are you needing to adjust your inlet pressure up and down?’ How crucial is it for you to adjust from 18 psi down to 14 psi? FASS is one of the best in the industry. They been around longer than air dog. Honestly they are both about the same. Stay away from that cheap raptor crap and in tank pumps. Junk. You want filters you can change. Thats the whole point is better filtration not just better flow. Don’t mess with dropping the tank for q draw straw, just do a sump. Beans diesel has perfected the sump design with a dual port design. The older fass sumps you had to drill 8 separate holes around the sump and get them all to
Line up and bolt in to secure the sump to the bottom of your tank. None sense old old design. One 3” hole and your done with a bean’s sump. Its a little scary cutting a hole in the bottom
Of your tank! I was a little nervous. The kit came with the hole saw even. Its cool. When i did my fass kit i did the return line where it T’d into the filler neck hose, so i had the second port on the sump free, i used it for a fuel-in feed from the 35 gal in bed aux tank! It just gravity feeds in as the fuel
Level slowly drops as its used from driving more from the aux tank gravity feeds in.
The dual probe heaters in the fass are nice for winter time here in Colorado where it can drop to -20 to -30 on jan and feb. It has saved my butt. And ira nice knowing your filters aren’t going to ice up and freeze going down the road with your fuel pump system outside the vech bolted to the inside of the frame behind the fender exposed to the elements, not tucked cozy inside the engine bay where it can get somewhat heated by the engine bay heat. Thats the onto downfall to mounting these aftermarket systems where they typically go inside the frame rail. I guess you could mount in in the engine bay, but they want you to put them as close as possible to the tank so the pump doesn’t have to suck fuel as far little as possible. Having fuel heaters is just another insurance policy thats cheap to have, of course if you live in phoenix Arizona then it don’t matter as much.
@@Moose400ex na fass cuts corners. Look at there “comparison” videos against airdog. They legit are cheating in the video and saying air dog is junk. Any company that calls out other products and cheats about it is scummy. And if you’re going more than stock hp you need to adjust fuel pressure. Also who in their right mind used fuel heaters.
“Broken Bolts and stripped out holes”, the man just described the sexlife of the majority of middle aged folks. It’s all down hill from here 30yr old.
Haha staring down the barrel of a shotgun, huh
One bad fillup can dirty a fuel filter like that!
I’d get a Fass 165 system on there immediately!Don’t wait. Its cheap insurance. One injector on that 5.9 common rail costs as much as the entire fass fuel system. Your cp3 injection pump is pretty stout. Its not like a vp44, but it still needs a constant steady flow of cool clean filtered fuel. And filtered better than the stock oem filter does. I thinks the stock oem filter setup only filter’s down to 10-15 microns. That’s nit enough. A fass system has 2 filters. The first one is the water fuel separator that filters down to 10 microns. Then the second main filter filters down to 2 microns. I run the larger bigger CAT filters. They are much larger, and they are CAT yellow hang down and look cool to hehe. But they filter a lot smaller, down to one micron! Thats saving your injectors and high pressure cp3 pump!
You will be able to delete all the stock
Oem crap out of there and it really cleans up the engine bay and frees up a lot of room taking that fuel filter canister crap out of there.
I would recommend doing a sump kit with the fass 165. It makes it super easy and there’s no need to drop the tank! Most kits that come with the beans diesel dual port sump even come with the 3” hole saw to cut the hole in the tank. Its super easy. Run the truck down to E all the way and that’ll leave a little less than 5 gal to drain out into a bucket. That stock oem fuel
Filter you pulled out looked really bad! Just imagine the nasty fuel going to your expensive injectors! Get a fass 165 and do the beans diesel dual port sump! The second port will be your return line and will
Make it easier, no need to t a line into your filler neck or drip the tank to t a line into the top of the factory fuel pump. All that stock stuff can just stay in the tank. You’ll unplug power from it and use that to power your fass at key on. Its super easy to wire up and install, the directions are full color and easy to follow. Budget about $800 for a kit with the sump and everything. Like i said its cheap insurance!
And depending on where you live if its super cold fass makes optional ‘probe heaters’ that thread into the block of the fass pump. Youll see two plugged ports on the fass system. Those are for 2 probe heaters. You can run one or 2. They sell a wiring harness that comes with a Y-cable to run the dual probe set up. But basically the heater probes run on a thermostat and heat the fuel before it goes into the filters. As fuel is cycled and ‘polished’ its heated to about 70 degrees total temp of all the fuel
In the tank then stops heating.
Fass also makes a ‘sandwich heater plate’ that threads on in between the main filter and the fass pump. You could in theory fun that with the 2 probe heaters. Ive got the two probe heaters. Basically its one heater for each filter and keeps them from freezing snd icing up, especially the water separator. I wanna say the probe heater kit is an additional $200 bucks for the 2 probes and Cable and harness that’s all plug and play. Its worth it to me here in Colorado, in gunnison it can get -30 in jan and feb!
Anyways hope that info helps! Cause that oem
Fuel filter system you for there ain’t doing anything good for your injectors, you saw how nasty it was! And with the milage that that truck is showing, it might just be getting close to needing injectors if you don’t get it filtering better!
Boy I had to sit down for this one. Thanks for all the info!
You didn't check the Transfer case.. cowboy? And id probably take that diff cover off that rearend and inspect it and clean it out, apply oil proof permatex "obviously" and refill it, If you do it soon you might be ok. But i wouldn't personally let it go too much longer. I worked at Dana world Headquarters in Maumee and their old location in Ottawa Lake Michigan on the test cell cleanup crew around 2001 to 07 they inflict some serious punishing Test cell abuse in the R&D department just pounding them things to no end, hydraulic hoses explode shooting hydro fluid 50 feet every direction, that was fun 😂being said Dana 60s are usually pretty good. Except for the marvelously stupid Dana 44 inner axle seal nightmare they designed, difficult to replace. Cheers 🫡
your videos are great! you have lots of projects, you should sell your house and buy an acreage
That's the plan! Just trying to save up.
Hey dude, where can I grab the red lense glasses from?
Ha! I was wondering the same those puppies are pretty slick. I think his might be prescription but none the less they look pretty cool.
They're old american optical safety glasses with a tinted prescription 👍
@@NockRanch thanks
Boy you really threw the beef to that poor old Amish guy trying to return to Jesus….. guy probably can’t even walk now !
haha hey we're all adults here. I asked, he agreed! Probably just good karma for him anyway🤞
My man! You don't want to put a car on 4 jackstands. You do 2 jackstands EITHER on front OR rear and chock the wheels that are in contact with the ground, so it don't move. For extra safety you can put your two extra jackstands (or timbers or what have you)under the frame/axel such that if the wheels in contact with the ground should deflate, you got a back up.
Awesome! Hoping to have this one for awhile.
@@NockRanch it's a nice truck you got, engine sounds great!
Cabin filter
And tire pressure??
trade for my 6.0 powerstroke
🛻🛻🛻🛻🛻🛻🛻🛻🛻😊
quit playin wit them stank!!
stankabooo
You're not a real CZcamsr if you're not using Amsoil. /s From a cranky Ram owner, for the love of god, please fold those mirrors in. The filters are a MF'er. I contemplate a remote mount setup. I pull my filter out from the wheel well opening. I use a ziplock bag to catch the oil. Given the condition of the rear diff plug, I'd be more inclined to pull the cover. The white smoke early on gives me more pause. Not sure who did the tune, but it could be cleaned up so you blow no black exhaust.
All good advice!
Make sure you grease those 2 Cardan joints in the front drive shaft or you will be one sorry guy down the road.
So. . .you plan on climbing under a truck. . .to change oil. . .and you selected a white hoodie???????? (face palm)
Eh I do the same thing. If they are work clothes who cares what color they are? They all end up black eventually if you do enough wrenching on diesels.
Livin life on the edge!
exactly!