Your comment about taking into account the direction of the grain when inserting the blade was spot on and something I didn't even consider. Great Job! 👍👍👍👍👍
Like everything else I’ve seen here;nicely done! Clear and straightforward. I love your work! I’m 68, and learning something new every time I tune in. Thanks for the nice work.
Thanks for watching, Steve! It's great to know you're picking up some useful info. Please feel free to ask questions if you're wondering about any particular project!
Great project Chad! I’ve got some old reciprocating saw blades that need to be pitched anyway. I may have to try to use one them in this project. Thanks for the instruction and the advice! Seth
Yes, definitely use the grinder! I use a CBN wheel and a finer standard type wheel, so I didn’t have a spare course one. The file definitely took some extra effort. Thanks for watching!
12:04 Extremely unsafe bandsaw technique. Please use a V-block jig when sawing round stock on the bandsaw. Otherwise you can lose multiple fingers in a heartbeat.
Haha... I tend to ramble sometimes, so I figured I wouldn't torture you all. I'm still getting the hang of talk first, do the task, talk after. Thanks for watching!
Looks good. I am thinking about making one of these. I will put a piece of copper tubing or copper coupling to fit around the end near the blade to strengthen the wood from splitting. I have made my own carbide tipped turning tools. I used a piece of ½ inch square metal stock to hold the carbide tip. I had to grind down the top of the steel stock to keep the square carbide tool from rotating. I also made one from a round carbide tip also. I turned my handle and used a piece of copper coupling on the end where the square stock went into the wood. They work great. If they get dull just rotate the carbide around 90 degrees and you have a new cutting edge. Thanks
I've never made one that takes carbide tips, but I did make a little captive bar system that takes HSS tips. The copper tubing as reinforcement is definitely a good idea with any tool that going to experience a significant amount of force. Keep creating! Thanks for watching!
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks The copper works great. The carbide inserts are a great improvement and easy to make. If the do get dull just rotate or replace. They last a long time and cut fast.
Personally, I don’t like carbide tips. I have a couple carbide tools and use them for a few specific purposes, but they don’t even compare to sharp, quality steel. HSS cuts; carbide tools just scrape (except the Hunter ones).
Interesting! But I would have done it differently. Sawed the handle in half lengthwise, made a selection for the saw, glued and sharpened. Then I would immediately insert the saw without drilling!
That's almost exactly how I made my first one. Initially, it didn't feel strong enough, like the blade could crack the seam and kick out of the slot if it caught a lot of torque. I put two pins through the handle and blade to secure it better and it lasted for years, but the blade worked it's way loose some time ago with the pins keeping it together. My new version feels much stronger to me and simpler to construct since it doesn't require carving a recess for the blade or drilling and placing pins. Also, the handle stays round since you're not cutting it lengthwise. For my personal skill set and tools it's just a little easier. Thanks for watching!
The split dowel is too clever. I had been using set screws to hold the blade in, but this is even better. I've even used reground putty knives as thin parting tools but they don't hold an edge worth a darn. Saw blades should hold up much better. Thanks.
Taking into account your clear understanding of woodworking and the associated tools, I have to ask one question based upon what my dad used to tell me..."never use a tool for anything other than its intended purpose"...(a screwdriver as a chisel; e.g.). Did you consider the integrity or strength of the sawzall blade prior to using it for a parting tool? Nice conversion, best wishes, and stay healthy.
HaHa... Good question. Using tools against their intended purpose is a daily occurrence for me! My main considerations when looking for a material to use were a thin piece of steel that's meant to cut wood and can hold an edge; the sawzall blade seemed to be a good fit. In a reciprocating saw, those things take some serious abuse; far more than I will ever throw at it. I used my old one for years with no problems. Obviously, it's flexible, which can be weird (also advantageous at times) so you have to be careful and use common sense, but really that goes for every tool in the shop. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Yeah, it looks like my cheap action cam may have reset the angle; I usually keep it on the narrowest angle. That's part of the reason why those cams have been retired and replaced by better equipment (which should be evident in my next video). Hopefully, all my future videos will be a step up. Thanks for watching!
Nah, on such a small cylinder there's not really enough torque to do anything other than possibly pop it out of my hands. However, anyone uncomfortable with my methods, should definitely do it the way they feel most comfortable.
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks I thought so too when I tried to cut a round piece (5 cm=2" diameter) with a radial saw a few years back though I knew it was strongly not recommended... Ended with a badly strained thumb that took months to heal. So yeah, what could possibly go wrong? ;) Shit happens and it tends to happen in the blink of an eye.
I appreciate your concern and warning, and it is good advice; I absolutely recognize that. I have actually cut a finger to the bone on that bandsaw making just a normal curved cut, so I know exactly how fast it can happen! I'm always extra careful of my fingers now.
Your comment about taking into account the direction of the grain when inserting the blade was spot on and something I didn't even consider. Great Job! 👍👍👍👍👍
Like everything else I’ve seen here;nicely done! Clear and straightforward. I love your work! I’m 68, and learning something new every time I tune in. Thanks for the nice work.
Thanks for watching, Steve! It's great to know you're picking up some useful info. Please feel free to ask questions if you're wondering about any particular project!
Just what I need. Thanks for the great idea!
Really nice tool, great approach using the blade and I like the technique with the handle. Thanks!
Nice tool, Chad!
Brilliant.
Great job Chad. I made something similar from a old plasterboard saw. I didn’t even need to make a handle. It works surprisingly well.
Right on!
Great project Chad!
I’ve got some old reciprocating saw blades that need to be pitched anyway. I may have to try to use one them in this project.
Thanks for the instruction and the advice!
Seth
Go for it! Let me know how it turns out.
Good stuff
I made something similar recently....thinking I'll pitch it and copy what you did it is much better! Thanks for the video.
I'm happy it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
I'm about to make one of these ... Thanks. I'm surprised the file worked on a hardened blade. I'll use the grinder I think.
Yes, definitely use the grinder! I use a CBN wheel and a finer standard type wheel, so I didn’t have a spare course one. The file definitely took some extra effort. Thanks for watching!
12:04 Extremely unsafe bandsaw technique. Please use a V-block jig when sawing round stock on the bandsaw. Otherwise you can lose multiple fingers in a heartbeat.
Great idea. I use diluted auto coolant to cool my tools. They don’t rust after sharpening them.
I missed some of what you were saying at 13:27. Ha ha! Great idea. I may try to make one. Thanks for the video!
Haha... I tend to ramble sometimes, so I figured I wouldn't torture you all. I'm still getting the hang of talk first, do the task, talk after. Thanks for watching!
Looks good. I am thinking about making one of these. I will put a piece of copper tubing or copper coupling to fit around the end near the blade to strengthen the wood from splitting. I have made my own carbide tipped turning tools. I used a piece of ½ inch square metal stock to hold the carbide tip. I had to grind down the top of the steel stock to keep the square carbide tool from rotating. I also made one from a round carbide tip also. I turned my handle and used a piece of copper coupling on the end where the square stock went into the wood. They work great. If they get dull just rotate the carbide around 90 degrees and you have a new cutting edge. Thanks
I've never made one that takes carbide tips, but I did make a little captive bar system that takes HSS tips. The copper tubing as reinforcement is definitely a good idea with any tool that going to experience a significant amount of force. Keep creating! Thanks for watching!
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks The copper works great. The carbide inserts are a great improvement and easy to make. If the do get dull just rotate or replace. They last a long time and cut fast.
Personally, I don’t like carbide tips. I have a couple carbide tools and use them for a few specific purposes, but they don’t even compare to sharp, quality steel. HSS cuts; carbide tools just scrape (except the Hunter ones).
Very good job, i also hate to waste material
Interesting! But I would have done it differently. Sawed the handle in half lengthwise, made a selection for the saw, glued and sharpened. Then I would immediately insert the saw without drilling!
That's almost exactly how I made my first one. Initially, it didn't feel strong enough, like the blade could crack the seam and kick out of the slot if it caught a lot of torque. I put two pins through the handle and blade to secure it better and it lasted for years, but the blade worked it's way loose some time ago with the pins keeping it together. My new version feels much stronger to me and simpler to construct since it doesn't require carving a recess for the blade or drilling and placing pins. Also, the handle stays round since you're not cutting it lengthwise. For my personal skill set and tools it's just a little easier. Thanks for watching!
young man; you are a talented artist. salute from Iraq
Thank you!
The split dowel is too clever. I had been using set screws to hold the blade in, but this is even better. I've even used reground putty knives as thin parting tools but they don't hold an edge worth a darn. Saw blades should hold up much better. Thanks.
I'm glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching!
Taking into account your clear understanding of woodworking and the associated tools, I have to ask one question based upon what my dad used to tell me..."never use a tool for anything other than its intended purpose"...(a screwdriver as a chisel; e.g.). Did you consider the integrity or strength of the sawzall blade prior to using it for a parting tool? Nice conversion, best wishes, and stay healthy.
HaHa... Good question. Using tools against their intended purpose is a daily occurrence for me! My main considerations when looking for a material to use were a thin piece of steel that's meant to cut wood and can hold an edge; the sawzall blade seemed to be a good fit. In a reciprocating saw, those things take some serious abuse; far more than I will ever throw at it. I used my old one for years with no problems. Obviously, it's flexible, which can be weird (also advantageous at times) so you have to be careful and use common sense, but really that goes for every tool in the shop. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Very interesting but next time don't use a wide angle camera lens , it makes everything look bent.
Yeah, it looks like my cheap action cam may have reset the angle; I usually keep it on the narrowest angle. That's part of the reason why those cams have been retired and replaced by better equipment (which should be evident in my next video). Hopefully, all my future videos will be a step up. Thanks for watching!
Good video apart from you not wearing a face shield. Personally I don't turn without one.
Good for you!
Bad idea to not have your walnut piece end supported on the first bandsaw cut.
Nah, on such a small cylinder there's not really enough torque to do anything other than possibly pop it out of my hands. However, anyone uncomfortable with my methods, should definitely do it the way they feel most comfortable.
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks I thought so too when I tried to cut a round piece (5 cm=2" diameter) with a radial saw a few years back though I knew it was strongly not recommended... Ended with a badly strained thumb that took months to heal.
So yeah, what could possibly go wrong? ;)
Shit happens and it tends to happen in the blink of an eye.
I appreciate your concern and warning, and it is good advice; I absolutely recognize that. I have actually cut a finger to the bone on that bandsaw making just a normal curved cut, so I know exactly how fast it can happen! I'm always extra careful of my fingers now.