How to use tanking slurry
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- čas přidán 9. 09. 2024
- #plastering #tanking #dampproof #
Hi Everyone, Welcome to my channel!
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My name’s Anthony and I’m a third generation plasterer from Prestatyn in North Wales. I’ve been plastering since 1999 and I’ve had the fortune to have been taught by my dad. I want to help spread the knowledge that I’ve learnt and to keep developing my skills. Plastering is an ever evolving trade and I would love for you to join me on my journey.
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Thanks for going through this process.
The brush will pick up dust on the first coat making it hard on your wrists .Have a bucket of clean water on hand to occasionally dip and clean the brush.
I know you said "its nothing special to putting this on" but to anyone who hasnt done this its really useful stuff - Im learning a lot its always the little stages that stump people when they first do this - I will be following this when I do my room. Thanks for this. please keep the vids coming!
Thanks I hope it helps, good luck with your room.let me know how you get on 👍
Anthony i have been using ka tanking for many many years in my experience you are not putting it on thick enough and i always put a base coat of cement on the brickworks as tanking can push off the mortar joints either due to salt problems from the moisture in the bricks or mortar beds but good on you for using tanking its a proper way to stop damp coming through walls
We always put a coat of render on, gives it a better seal, and also makes it easier to paint on. Also put a Bit of render light on it too once it’s all dried stops any condensation. Great video again mate
Yeah that’s great advice especially when the walls aren’t in good condition. Thanks bud 👍
@@AnthonyParryPlastering no problem mate, do a lot of it so happy to share.
@@robjb21 that’s the point of my channel is to share the knowledge. Cheers buddy
@@robjb21 how does this compare with effectiveness over products like silka render tanking? I've known that for years as the best product and wondering how effective this is at holding back damp after 5 years later say....
Would you scratch coat the first coat of render to put another coat of render lite on ?
Excellent video short but very informative, the details were brilliant, working for a small builder Same Problem, Scratching our Heads ( Just in time vid saved my 🥓) Slurry tanking Definitely going to Use your brill Idea 👍, Video ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Glad it helped George. 👍
Great video buddy. I was curious about why you were ranking a living room but well explained at the end.
Wish you’d uploaded full vids of you doing the French drain and replacing all the joists and flooring though. The more the merrier!
Keep up the great work, fellow Welshman!
Thanks Marcus, I might do one on the french drain at some point but im not sure I’ve got good enough footage of it.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering awesome buddy!
@@AnthonyParryPlastering you could just use what footage you do have, and narrate along with some diagrams/sketches to illustrate how you do it
Thank you for your tutorial..👍👍
Well done for going belt and braces - might as well while it's all exposed, and you'd regret it if there was damp penetrating later down the line 👍🏻 bet it's all lovely and cosy now!
Brilliant
Hey Anthony - Good luck with your battle against the water ingression, seems you've covered all angles there ....... Though I would say, we used the pre-mix slurry thirty years ago now, and was advised by the supplier to apply the second coat as a 'textured' slurry so that the render 'gripped' it better ..... Just a thought ... things have probably changed since ;-)
I know what you mean by a texture coat. Lucky there’s plenty of key there for me. I’m drylining the walls so it was fine for that. If I had a thick coat to go on and there wasn’t much to key into I would of stippled it then. Cheers bud 👍
So how are the walls going to breath now you've put a cement based water proofer on what's designed for basement etc ?
Exactly what kind of was thinking the walls need to breathe don’t they and for that to happen you need to use breathable products.
Hi Anthony just a quick one. You were going to board your walls at some point can you plaster straight onto the slurry with undercoat/ bonding coat. Thanks
Hi Anthony great channel just come across you, I live in Rhos on sea I used to do plastering years ago still got all my tools and thinking about getting back into it, so much has changed lol I did it when there was massive bags of browning and tin baths 😂 great to see some up to date stuff 🙌
Good video as always pal! Looks alot of hard work was put in with the French dain etc 💪. I personally wouldn't have tanked the walls. I would have just injected the walls and then sand and cement rendered them. I have used tanking on a few jobs but the manufacturer says it must be floated over with renovating or render. ( no gypsum products must be used)..
I'm guessing that's because this stuff probably isn't very effective long term...it's too thin...
I have a pub and my beer cellar has bad efflorescence and crumbling masonry. I plan to scrape away the rubbish and tank the masonry. Would I be able to apply a black bitumen paint to the lower part of the wall and white cellar paint to the rest of the walls and the ceiling over the top of the tanking to give it a clean finish or will that cause further problems? Thanks for a great video.
I have an old coal hatch in my basement. It was bricked up then all of the walls were rendered. Mould is now forming on the wall where the coal hatch is and it’s slowly spreading. Can I just put tanking slurry over all of the rendered walls then paint over the slurry? Or do I have to remove all the render, apply the slurry then re-render?
Great job! But did you tank the external wall whilst digging for the French drain?
Would this stuff be ok to seal a concrete slab roof that is leaking, it's only an out house roof used to store garden tools ect, the roof has got 2 thin cracks no more than 2mm wide and about 3 feet long, thanks in advance if anyone knows.
Can you make your own using cement and SBR?
alright mate, i’ve got to
do an internal render job, and the customer tanked the walls himself its been on the walls months, do i need to do any prep to the tanking? i was thinking of putting sbr in the scratch to help stick?
Can i apple tanking over storm dry cream.
Hi, would you have to apply a coat of sand and cement on top of that if you wanted to use dot and dab drylining method?.
Also would you put a salt treatment before you apply the tanking? Or would this not be needed.
Hi mate can we do on top of plasterboard?
Can it be applied to damp concrete ?
I'm.having water coming in to my lean to water leaking through the block wall and cant get to the outside to render so does this stuff actually work
It will stop water coming through. But water will still be behind it and water always finds a way. It all depends on how the water is coming in.
Hi, great video, can I tile on top of the tanking or would you suggest putting something on first?
Never used this stuff what would you recommended to cover this dot n dab ?, hardwall , or sand a cement ?
You can use most materials on top as long as you don’t drill into it. Ive gone over with renovating plaster quite a lot. Ive also used sand and cement. Ive not gone over it with hard wall/bonding but there shouldn’t be a problem with going over it.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering thanks buddy really enjoy your videos 👌🏻keep it up 👍🏻
why havent you drilled and injected damp proof cream round the base of walls to stop rising damp all you are doing is holding the rising damp back
Off subject I know mate but which of the sub 100 quid mixers would you recommend from the likes of screwfix etc? I'm only plastering occasionally but would like one that could knock up mortar and finish too.
Cheers
I’ll be honest with you I normally use a makita. Id imagine they’ll all do the same job, We had a Aldi mixer that cost about £50 and that lasted a while but it was only a backup.
I’d make sure they have variable speed just so you can control the mix. The Screwfix mixers should be good. I use Erbauer for my knocking off drills and there pretty tough maybe look into them.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering cheers I'll have a proper look.
Hi mate I’m just about to use this product and hoping to get the guys to dot and dab over the top the same as you have,did you get any damp spots from the dabs at low level as it says you will as the moisture can’t go back into the wall if so did they just eventually dry out before painting if so that’s fine with me.thanks again
No I haven’t had any damp spots coming through. And you shouldn’t as long as it’s cured. once the tanking is on the moisture can’t come through it. That’s the point of the tanking. The main reason why you get damp spots coming through dab is because the wall is damp and the water is finding a way of coming through. Hope that helps
@@AnthonyParryPlastering thanks for the reply,yeah I just thought they meant the moisture from the dab it’sself but if it worked for you that’s good enough for me il get them to crack on,brilliant thanks again
Haha sounds like a lovely job, did you ever finish your Hobbit house?
I’ve almost finished the lounge just needs painting now. We did finish the hobbit house. But the garden a right state I’m gonna finish the video in spring when we’ve made the area look neat. 😀
Would you not give it a strong 1:1 scud pal..a lot faster!
My mistake i didn't know you were damp proofing... Love the videos lad from Ireland 🇮🇪
Mate, the condensation building up cause you have solid brick wall with radiator on it. There is no insulation at all. So when you put heating on the cold wall becoming soaking wet. Same effect like you turn hot shower in the bathroom. Air brick not the problem solver! EWI tha is what you need to look for!
Do not thanks.
Why only a metre from the floor..?
Rising damp doesn't climb higher than one meter under normal circumstances. This is due to the weight of the rising water becomes too much upon itself to climb higher, rising damp acts through the process of capillary action.