Links to previous brake test videos: Car brake test czcams.com/video/TPf4qwtr8Fs/video.html xc bicycle brake test czcams.com/video/oYBxwzgOm2I/video.html Thermal camera bicycle brake test czcams.com/video/tqMuxfHd9Vg/video.html
Anni should do a Finland episode about the trains, those are some fancy ass trains you have over there, coming from the UK i can assure you our trains are like shit.
A good test would be to spin the lathe up to max speed, then activate the brake while simultaneously turning the lathe off, and see how quickly its able to stop all that force in a flywheel. endurance vs performance basically.
looks like the part of the lathe that has the clamps is already a massive flywheel. i would expect most lathes have some form of flywheel like that to make the work smoother and more consistent.
Gibson99dotcom You are right, but if you double the spinning mass, you double the energy as well, and so on. I am afraid that braking only the (spinning but not driven) lathe will not overload the brakes at all. A giant steel disc with 1m diameter and 100mm thickness is about 600 kg, it has about 375 kJ energy when spinning 1000 rpm. That equals when Lauri (100kg together with bike) traveling about 300 km/h, and knowing brakes always have a huge safety factor, that could might be overload a simple and cheap disc brake when the cycle is repeated many times. And that is a huge steel piece, also I think if somebody, then Lauri can acquire and transport such a piece.
Coast mode would be perfect for this and wouldn't overvoltage the DC bus on the VFD. As an aside, any reason you can't use a braking resistor with your VFD?
I know this is an old video, but things I'd like to see: - More powerful brakes- Code RSCs, Saints, MT5s, Tech 3 E4s, and if you have too much cash to burn, maybe some Trickstuff brakes. - Finned pads + Larger floating rotors- theses should dissipate heat better - Pump the lever- the pistons gradually move out to compensate for pad wear, but only do so through pumping - Possibly one of those laser thermometer things or like a thermal camera- something to roughly tell the temperature.
I wanna see some M9100 four pistons and match the rotor to the brakes this time. This video uses a SRAM caliper on a shimano disc. I bet that hurt performace a little
@@cartermacrenaris705 Hey so are the Sram Guides or the Shimano XT Quad pistons passable for All mountain/DH use? I'm not talking Saints or RSC's, those are more than I'd like to pay and I'd just go for HOPE if I'm spending $400+. Its for an old 26"er with a 180mm Single Crown with low gear ratio I like to romp around on.
@@deasternjo-seph941 Xt is always a beast. In terms of Sram, anything less than a RSC or Ultimate overheats like crazy and goes to the grip as soon as it touches the disc for more than 5 seconds.
It's worth mentioning that the "cross country brake" was a shimano brake running mineral oil, whereas the "downhill brake" was a sram brake with DOT fluid.
what do you mean by that? I know that the bike disk is to small for the moto calipers but its not supposed to great its supposed to destroy the disk which is why i'm thinking bike disk moto brake
You should put a shitload of pipes under the snow dump site and connect to a radiator in the shop and pump water through and get "free" cooling in the shop during summer. :D
Xistence Studios In the beginning it would work ok, but after a while it would probably become a cavity there when the snow melts and everything on top isn’t collapsing. Then it warms up inside like in an igloo. And you don’t want to drive around with an excavator up there with a snow cave underneath. 😆
@@Drago0900 check your info bro. They are nearly the same, but DOT mixes with water while oil doesn't, which can be either a good or a bad thing, non important if you change the fluid yearly.
On a smaller disc and worst quality brake pads i already put the pads laying smoke and cracking, by just going downhill and pedalling hard , but it´s seem's impossible to me to overheat that much the brake system
Yes!!!!! At last :) Try the TRP spyke next time. It's an mechanical disc brake calliper so you wouldn't have to worry about any boiling oil. I could recommend this rotor for the third try Shimano XT RT86 Ice-Tech
The Shimano Ice-Tech rotors have aluminium between two layers of stainless. The problem with these, and this can happen on loaded touring bikes and tandems when they do a long descent, is the aluminium melts and comes out the middle. The might be a good candidate to explode.
unogazzy84 their levers are not that great, a lot of play, and scraping sound, if you font lube them, caliper got too firm return spring, but they are pretty decent brakes, but I don't like the ergonomics of the lever. But no fluid to worry about.
Yeah I've the about the firmness of the returnsprings. I've also seen a video of a guy fixing that problem by grinding away material from the spring. I'm not gonna use the levers because I have my own shimano levers and TRP said that they would be compatible.
I tripped on something at work the other day, said "Holy sheet I almost died," which led me to think "I can't wait for the next video," which led me to "I wonder if all that snow has melted yet." So thanks for the snow dump site update! And yes, put the workshop merch in the store!
Also Shimano uses mineral oil and SRAM is using normal braking oil like on the car, so the feeling is bit different, try something like Magura DH brakes, thats the brakes I can call brakes.
xerxes I had Guide RS and RE on two of my bikes for a while but after using Saints, Guides are XC brakes compared to them. On long mountain descents I found them even dangerous so I got rid of them. I like their look but it’s not that I’m after with brakes.
@@romantom8101 Witch Is for dh? I have the guide Rs on my dh and they are perfect And yes you can use them on different bikes but when you look them up one of the uses is indeed dh
Can you try doing this with shimano brakes, Ice Tech rotors and brake pads with cooling fins? They should last at least twice longer that this ones on video
Good one again. I don't think the lathe even knew that brake was on it. Your snow plow guys are brutal. Looks like there's more pavement than snow it that pile.
It does bring to mind an interesting question. The dark color of the dirt and sand on the snow pile means that it will absorb the sun's heat more readily, but at the same time, the dirt and sand also acts as an insulator for the cold snow beneath it. I wonder what is the stronger process?
The dirt accelerates melting. It's similar to real glaciers. Additionally the snow dump is in a build up area which reduces wind speed and heat exchange with the air through conduction.
I've got a pair of the appalling Tokico 6 pot calipers from my Ninja that I would absolutely love to see destroyed on the lathe, i will happily send them to you for destruction.
@@xxXthekevXxx I'd be delighted to give them a full rebuild and ship them off to Lauri's Finnish Mechanical Euthenasia Clinic, with disc and pads included. I fucking hate those six pots.
Sram and Avid build good stuff,and bad stuff.But Shimano too.I ride Sram Level at my bar and Avid Xo trail on the disc.Its rrally nice,Guides are good on the disc but not on the bar.
Were the pads graphite? A lot of times they use graphite crucibles in foundries, so it can stand a lot of heat.... Hahaha, make some carbide pads(I know you have some broken endmills, every machinist does). I just got a carbide file guide and did a video holding the carbide against a belt on my 2x72, not even a scratch... Love the videos, take it easy...
graphite does not stand up well to high heat and quickly breaks down, those graphite crucibles are consumable items and need to be replaced after a few uses
Thanks, I didn't know that. I figured if they can stand temperatures hot enough to melt steel, they could take it, in fact, I remember the one video where AvE was trying to melt titanium in one and it held up...from what I just read Graphite can be heated up to 3000c if protected from oxidation(in an oven)...and can reach temps of 1000c and more in bar form unprotected... which means the disc brake would most likely melt before the graphite broke down...
I remember AvE sent them some stuff for Christmas(along with Cody's Lab and someone else), I think it was the year before last, that is how i found this channel...
Cool dude. It's amazing with the internet, everything is delivered to you. There's not thousands of people across the world doing the same test. Way better idea!
You can try it with the cable disc brakes intead fo the hydraulics, since there's no liquid to expand due to the heat and also they can't leak.Will be interesting to see what breaks first.
I think you should also think about about a way to reproduce the apparent wind created by the bike mooving that actually contribiutes to the cooling of the disc. Yould be amazing if you can find some “vented” discs
Hope all the way. I use mono 6 ti calipers. Long in the tooth but boy do they brake hard and consistently. That's running on a 50kg electric bike that tops out at 65mph, so they see some serious use too.
it would be good to see a test of a selection of brakes on a scale to measure how much force they can apply and how long they can hold it for before failing.
Downhill Demon exactly, absolutely no modulation, I said sarcastically, every brake I rode was better than shimano, because shimano locks up to easily for me
GeHassani They have awesome brakimg power, but you can mostly just lock up the wheel and skid, and not really slow down. Riding shimano brakes requires very diffret riding style which i dislike very much.
I'm pretty sure the explosion is going to be so great that it will change the time-space continuum so drastically that Nelli the cat will be able to talk.
The Sram guide brakes are runniung on Dot 5.1 or Dot 4 brake fluid. When they failed you reached the boiling temperature of the brake fluid. The Shimano XC brake in the previous test ran on mineral oil instead
The warping of the disc is called coning, and that's why motorcycles usually have floating rotors, allowing the outer ring of the rotor to expand without being constrained by the inner part of the rotor that's bolted to the wheel.
hi i work in a bike shop really interesting tests and results. the recall of the sram guide is still going on and doesnt matter how old your guide is you gonna get a new one :)
Curious to see Shimano Saint DH brakes with mineral oil vs. the SRAM with DOT5 fluid (higher boiling point).. Would the Saint calipers explode from the boiling oil?
I have heard a myth, that when a car has that "chip-chip-chip" sound from brakes that not fully retracts from the discs, makes the disc hot in only one spot (it expands since hot metal is bigger), and therefor makes the disc uneven and warped, and making your feel uneven braking in the wheels etc. If you spin a brake disc and unly apply brake to one spot, will the disc get warped?
Awesome video as always, guys. Kind of unrelated, but can anyone explain to me why some bikes have fluid brakes instead of cable? I know with cars, they use fluid so that all the brakes receive equal force, but if it’s only actuating one caliper, what is the advantage of fluid over a cable?
You should test some normal rim brakes too. Like Shimano dual pivot road brakes on an aluminium rim. It will be interesting to see if they last longer before complete failure of brake action.
Something I think would be really interesting to do. Run this test again, then quench the metal while it's red hot and see if you hardened it (assuming it's steel).
Links to previous brake test videos:
Car brake test czcams.com/video/TPf4qwtr8Fs/video.html
xc bicycle brake test czcams.com/video/oYBxwzgOm2I/video.html
Thermal camera bicycle brake test czcams.com/video/tqMuxfHd9Vg/video.html
Might be time to make your own brake caliper.
i can send you old brakes from Formula and bigger discs =P
Anni should do a Finland episode about the trains, those are some fancy ass trains you have over there, coming from the UK i can assure you our trains are like shit.
Beyond the press Laurie. Angled press tool so when u crush bearing or anything it shoots out in the angle. Instead of flat surface u make angled.
Can't find you on instagram put a link up please, and keep up the videos I love watching them. Especially the ones that go bang lol
A good test would be to spin the lathe up to max speed, then activate the brake while simultaneously turning the lathe off, and see how quickly its able to stop all that force in a flywheel. endurance vs performance basically.
Yeah!
Bicycle brake have no chances vs such lathe chuck - overload above projeckt thermal load.
This is what I was hoping for!
@@101picofarad unless maybe they use a larger diamater rotor or vented rotor like hope v4 since it works better with dissipating heat
@@The_Real_JN it would be useless bcs you need wind to cool it. Standing still wouldnt help much
Next time you should try turning on the lathe then turning it off and stopping it with the disc brake
Alex939 and maybe make a huge flywheel to have some rotation energy
looks like the part of the lathe that has the clamps is already a massive flywheel. i would expect most lathes have some form of flywheel like that to make the work smoother and more consistent.
Gibson99dotcom You are right, but if you double the spinning mass, you double the energy as well, and so on. I am afraid that braking only the (spinning but not driven) lathe will not overload the brakes at all. A giant steel disc with 1m diameter and 100mm thickness is about 600 kg, it has about 375 kJ energy when spinning 1000 rpm. That equals when Lauri (100kg together with bike) traveling about 300 km/h, and knowing brakes always have a huge safety factor, that could might be overload a simple and cheap disc brake when the cycle is repeated many times. And that is a huge steel piece, also I think if somebody, then Lauri can acquire and transport such a piece.
Coast mode would be perfect for this and wouldn't overvoltage the DC bus on the VFD. As an aside, any reason you can't use a braking resistor with your VFD?
Tamás Dobronyi you become member of this channel to get that badge?
8:01 "These are really easy to lose and..." *immediately loses it*
Hahahaha I thought that someone would write this ;-D Hahaha that was really funny :)
I know this is an old video, but things I'd like to see:
- More powerful brakes- Code RSCs, Saints, MT5s, Tech 3 E4s, and if you have too much cash to burn, maybe some Trickstuff brakes.
- Finned pads + Larger floating rotors- theses should dissipate heat better
- Pump the lever- the pistons gradually move out to compensate for pad wear, but only do so through pumping
- Possibly one of those laser thermometer things or like a thermal camera- something to roughly tell the temperature.
Hope tech e4/v4 and trickstuff is all ill run 👌
I wanna see some M9100 four pistons and match the rotor to the brakes this time. This video uses a SRAM caliper on a shimano disc. I bet that hurt performace a little
Ahahahhahah
What happens to mine lol
@@mtbbros964 I wrote an entire mfing para.
8:03 those are called Jesus clips...because when they go flying, only the good lord knows where they land.
Underated comment
Jesus! Where the fuck did that go?
Yup! I know that name well!
I always find them but okay, not that hard
Ah ave
Sram brakes do basically the same thing on mountain bikes under normal use... Lol
Yep, had that happen too. That’s why they’re called SCUM brakes now.
I’ve never had problems with SRAM and I race dh on them
@@cartermacrenaris705 Hey so are the Sram Guides or the Shimano XT Quad pistons passable for All mountain/DH use? I'm not talking Saints or RSC's, those are more than I'd like to pay and I'd just go for HOPE if I'm spending $400+. Its for an old 26"er with a 180mm Single Crown with low gear ratio I like to romp around on.
@@deasternjo-seph941 Xt is always a beast. In terms of Sram, anything less than a RSC or Ultimate overheats like crazy and goes to the grip as soon as it touches the disc for more than 5 seconds.
Mine not lol
"These are really easy to lose..."
0.01s later
"Where did it go ?!"
It's worth mentioning that the "cross country brake" was a shimano brake running mineral oil, whereas the "downhill brake" was a sram brake with DOT fluid.
I'd totally buy a Konepaja Vuohensilta shirt & cap...No questions asked!
maybe try a enduro motorcycle brake caliper and a bicycle disk
MrDominikni that is not how brakes work
what do you mean by that? I know that the bike disk is to small for the moto calipers but its not supposed to great its supposed to destroy the disk which is why i'm thinking bike disk moto brake
The pads will get too worn out and Touch eachother before the disk blows up since as u said the disk is too small
A motorcycle brake setup is larger (diameter and thickness) to handle to extra weight and speed of the motorcycle, so it wouldn’t work.
You should put a shitload of pipes under the snow dump site and connect to a radiator in the shop and pump water through and get "free" cooling in the shop during summer. :D
MadModders good concept , but it won't work that well
Xistence Studios In the beginning it would work ok, but after a while it would probably become a cavity there when the snow melts and everything on top isn’t collapsing. Then it warms up inside like in an igloo. And you don’t want to drive around with an excavator up there with a snow cave underneath. 😆
MadModders yeah that would probably happen , just cheaper to get an AC
That's a very common heating/cooling system used in Finland. Not under snow, but 100-150m underground where the water circulates.
Before the disc fails, the brake fluid is going to boil (Dot) so the brakes will fade/leak.
That’s why hydraulic is bett than mechanical because mechanical will get so hot it will probably net the brake to the disk lol
I would like to see the same thing happen with mineral oil
@@BegginersGuidetoCode there would be no visual difference.
@@piciu256 except for double the boiling temp if we are talking shimanos fluid
@@Drago0900 check your info bro. They are nearly the same, but DOT mixes with water while oil doesn't, which can be either a good or a bad thing, non important if you change the fluid yearly.
is it just me, or has there ever been anyone out there wanting to fly down a big flat surfaced hill with overheating brakes on fire like that?
I mean it would look cool but your bank account wouldn't think so
Yeah same
On a smaller disc and worst quality brake pads i already put the pads laying smoke and cracking, by just going downhill and pedalling hard , but it´s seem's impossible to me to overheat that much the brake system
@ yea. idk why, it just feels fun riding down a hill with smoking brakes.
regular rim v-brake can not be overheated
Yes, put the hats in the merch
Always happy to see the snow dump updates! 😄
Snow dump is calm enough now, but could attack at any time . . . So we must deal with it 😃
ken winston no it’s but cold attack at any time
Hell yeah! That's an awesome logo for the shop! If you put that on a black T-shirt then I'd definitely buy one.
try a hope v4 with sintered pads. the lever should feel pretty solid on those even if the dot 5.1 starts boiling
Another great video!! I love watching you two. :)
Keep us posted on the snow dump please.
THANKS FINALLY!!!!!!!! I gave been waiting for this for soo damn long
Yes!!!!! At last :) Try the TRP spyke next time. It's an mechanical disc brake calliper so you wouldn't have to worry about any boiling oil. I could recommend this rotor for the third try Shimano XT RT86 Ice-Tech
The Shimano Ice-Tech rotors have aluminium between two layers of stainless. The problem with these, and this can happen on loaded touring bikes and tandems when they do a long descent, is the aluminium melts and comes out the middle. The might be a good candidate to explode.
Ohh I forgot that factor. The RT76 should be a better choice.
What they should try is the trickstuff directissima maxima.
unogazzy84 their levers are not that great, a lot of play, and scraping sound, if you font lube them, caliper got too firm return spring, but they are pretty decent brakes, but I don't like the ergonomics of the lever. But no fluid to worry about.
Yeah I've the about the firmness of the returnsprings. I've also seen a video of a guy fixing that problem by grinding away material from the spring. I'm not gonna use the levers because I have my own shimano levers and TRP said that they would be compatible.
You guys have to make a video of walking around the snow dump and seeing if there is any good litter in it such as money or something
Yes, please add your shop logo to the merch shop!
go over and touch the snow dump site please! coming from Australia, I have no idea what it would be like!
if you ever see and touch built up frost in a freezer, it's sort of like that. Not exact, but close.
More brake tests!😍
I can't be the only one who wants shop merch
Finally!!!!!!! I was waiting for this!
I tripped on something at work the other day, said "Holy sheet I almost died," which led me to think "I can't wait for the next video," which led me to "I wonder if all that snow has melted yet." So thanks for the snow dump site update!
And yes, put the workshop merch in the store!
You know I want one of those hats!
Also Shimano uses mineral oil and SRAM is using normal braking oil like on the car, so the feeling is bit different, try something like Magura DH brakes, thats the brakes I can call brakes.
Yeah try Magura!
Magura also uses mineral fluid just like Shimano. In the 'power department', nothing really beats Saints...
Tamas Varga I don’t know, my guides are pretty damn strong
xerxes I had Guide RS and RE on two of my bikes for a while but after using Saints, Guides are XC brakes compared to them. On long mountain descents I found them even dangerous so I got rid of them. I like their look but it’s not that I’m after with brakes.
Or SHIMANO SAINTS!!
Guys i love your channel and especially your game!! You guys are great keep it up!!
you guys rock !!! keep up the good fun videos
Those are actually trail brakes not downhill
The sram guide R is a dh brake
@@ideapap1 sram code is dh brake. Sram guide is just 4 piston level
@@romantom8101
Witch Is for dh?
I have the guide Rs on my dh and they are perfect
And yes you can use them on different bikes but when you look them up one of the uses is indeed dh
@@ideapap1 guides will work for short dh runs but not for heavy bikepark abuse
@@romantom8101 I’m not saying you are wrong but they do and I have had them on my dh without any problem
I’ve got those on my trail bike!! Those aren’t dh. You should try saints or magura trials brakes! Sick video
Can you try doing this with shimano brakes, Ice Tech rotors and brake pads with cooling fins? They should last at least twice longer that this ones on video
Yay these are the brakes I have just a bigger disk so thanks for testing them
Would love workshop merch
I would wear the fuck out of that hat!
Do motorcycle brakes next!!
Good one again. I don't think the lathe even knew that brake was on it. Your snow plow guys are brutal. Looks like there's more pavement than snow it that pile.
It does bring to mind an interesting question. The dark color of the dirt and sand on the snow pile means that it will absorb the sun's heat more readily, but at the same time, the dirt and sand also acts as an insulator for the cold snow beneath it. I wonder what is the stronger process?
The dirt accelerates melting. It's similar to real glaciers. Additionally the snow dump is in a build up area which reduces wind speed and heat exchange with the air through conduction.
I want timo hats! Please!!!!
I've got a pair of the appalling Tokico 6 pot calipers from my Ninja that I would absolutely love to see destroyed on the lathe, i will happily send them to you for destruction.
clive ramsbotty do it!
@@xxXthekevXxx I'd be delighted to give them a full rebuild and ship them off to Lauri's Finnish Mechanical Euthenasia Clinic, with disc and pads included. I fucking hate those six pots.
I want a Vouhensilta shirt. Timo deserves a "merch-purch". Timo is a badass who cuts holes in walls & bend tubes around lathe heads with his hands.
I would love to see how long hydro brakes with heatsink and those mechanical brakes hold vs hydro.
I would buy a Konepaia Vuohensilta shirt, I think lots of people would too
It will come close to exploding, can't wait to find out!
The more merch, the better. Yes please.
Wow, that is definitely showing the durability of expensive, but high quality bike brakes.
9:19 Anni: "For some reason.." :D:D:D:D
The car rotor shattered because its cast iron. The bike rotor is steel.
David M what makes you think yours aren't? Almost all brake rotors that aren't carbon composite are some form of cast iron.
I've been hoping you do this again, next time you should try an old rim break
I think Konepaja Vuohensilta merch would be the best yet! I hope you guys end up releasing them!
I'd love to get a hat or shirt from your shop
I like your pic
thanks
@@Tmaxxnc welcome fuzzbro
Uhhh SRAM guides are garbage lmao. Get some Shimano saints with icetech rotors 👌
Except Shimano brakes use Mineral Oil which has a much lower boiling point and will basically cook the oil twice as quickly...
Sram and Avid build good stuff,and bad stuff.But Shimano too.I ride Sram Level at my bar and Avid Xo trail on the disc.Its rrally nice,Guides are good on the disc but not on the bar.
@@hiddenstorm5488 simple, hope, problem solved
John Roberts MTB XTR m9120 all the way.
Guide isn’t really a DH brake.
The Code is.
So cool! Makes me curious about mechanical disc brakes.
Would be interested to see how this goes with Shimano saint/zee because they use mineral oil instead of brake fluid like the sram
Tehkää samallainen video moottoripyörän jarruilla
Were the pads graphite? A lot of times they use graphite crucibles in foundries, so it can stand a lot of heat.... Hahaha, make some carbide pads(I know you have some broken endmills, every machinist does). I just got a carbide file guide and did a video holding the carbide against a belt on my 2x72, not even a scratch... Love the videos, take it easy...
graphite does not stand up well to high heat and quickly breaks down, those graphite crucibles are consumable items and need to be replaced after a few uses
Thanks, I didn't know that. I figured if they can stand temperatures hot enough to melt steel, they could take it, in fact, I remember the one video where AvE was trying to melt titanium in one and it held up...from what I just read Graphite can be heated up to 3000c if protected from oxidation(in an oven)...and can reach temps of 1000c and more in bar form unprotected... which means the disc brake would most likely melt before the graphite broke down...
Ave deconstruction. BTP destruction. They should do a colab.
I remember AvE sent them some stuff for Christmas(along with Cody's Lab and someone else), I think it was the year before last, that is how i found this channel...
Bicycle brake pads come in two main types: organic (resin bonded) and sintered metal.
Cool dude. It's amazing with the internet, everything is delivered to you. There's not thousands of people across the world doing the same test. Way better idea!
The first guide brakes were prone to have seized lever pistons. I think the new guides would last longer. Or shimano zee/saint :) Good video!
Hmmm,time for DOT-5 break fluid.
4 gauge dot 5.1 doesn't cut it?
hapiman97 Well,its not that so much,its the dry boil temp is the same.
I want a workshop hat!!!!
This was so cool. Thanks!
Piston seals in caliper likely decomposed under the heat and the oil went up in smoke with the pads. How many hp is in the lathe?
Sam se sraj
Not downhill spec brakes, or rotor. My gravel bike has same mm rotors.
He said 4 liston brakes haha.. those are sigle piston street bike brakes and discs
You can try it with the cable disc brakes intead fo the hydraulics, since there's no liquid to expand due to the heat and also they can't leak.Will be interesting to see what breaks first.
I think you should also think about about a way to reproduce the apparent wind created by the bike mooving that actually contribiutes to the cooling of the disc.
Yould be amazing if you can find some “vented” discs
now test hope 6 piston brakes
jaakko200987654321 or trickstuffs new dh brake
Mono 6Ti
Sram guide sux
Karolis Borkertas i like mine better than my saints
Saint works best for me
No it dont
Hope all the way. I use mono 6 ti calipers. Long in the tooth but boy do they brake hard and consistently. That's running on a 50kg electric bike that tops out at 65mph, so they see some serious use too.
I use Hope
You should bolt a flywheel to the lathe and use a car clutch. Then maybe try a high performance aftermarket clutch.
it would be good to see a test of a selection of brakes on a scale to measure how much force they can apply and how long they can hold it for before failing.
Shimano forever.
Shelby S hope you are enjoying that modulation:)
Leon Krušlin what modulation 😂 I ride zee calipers with saint levers and they have barely any modulation but I like them somehow
Downhill Demon exactly, absolutely no modulation, I said sarcastically, every brake I rode was better than shimano, because shimano locks up to easily for me
Leon Krušlin locks up too easily? Is it bad?
GeHassani They have awesome brakimg power, but you can mostly just lock up the wheel and skid, and not really slow down. Riding shimano brakes requires very diffret riding style which i dislike very much.
There's still a snow pile in Appleton, Wisconsin- it was just in the news too. Let's see which one makes it until winter.
can you make a custom pump to pump the brake? something that has more volume to keep adding pressure.
Am I the only one who wants to see more on this snow dump?
What temperature is it at different levels and does it ever completely thaw etc etc.
We want a Third Video with MOTORCYCLE / DIRTBIKE BRAKE !! Love you Lauri x)
Of course we want that merch
I'm pretty sure the explosion is going to be so great that it will change the time-space continuum so drastically that Nelli the cat will be able to talk.
You guys should definitely try and do this with a motorcycle brake. Also I would buy a hat from your shop.
Yes! Would love to be able to wear some insider-Timo-merch here in Tallinn!
The Sram guide brakes are runniung on Dot 5.1 or Dot 4 brake fluid. When they failed you reached the boiling temperature of the brake fluid.
The Shimano XC brake in the previous test ran on mineral oil instead
Yeeeess, been waiting for thiss.
The warping of the disc is called coning, and that's why motorcycles usually have floating rotors, allowing the outer ring of the rotor to expand without being constrained by the inner part of the rotor that's bolted to the wheel.
I had the same brakes on my davinchi frame before i sold it
I'm interested to see how well it stops the lathe after you turn off the power
I would definitely buy one of those t-shirts. It's a cool logo and would be great to impress other hardcore HPC fans!
hi i work in a bike shop really interesting tests and results. the recall of the sram guide is still going on and doesnt matter how old your guide is you gonna get a new one :)
You guys look great in 4k!
Curious to see Shimano Saint DH brakes with mineral oil vs. the SRAM with DOT5 fluid (higher boiling point).. Would the Saint calipers explode from the boiling oil?
+1 for workshop merch!
Could you do a video comparing braded lines to cable breaks. Also floting and vented rotors.
👍 great video's cheers.
I have heard a myth, that when a car has that "chip-chip-chip" sound from brakes that not fully retracts from the discs, makes the disc hot in only one spot (it expands since hot metal is bigger), and therefor makes the disc uneven and warped, and making your feel uneven braking in the wheels etc. If you spin a brake disc and unly apply brake to one spot, will the disc get warped?
What a great looking shop. How about a tour?
Awesome video as always, guys. Kind of unrelated, but can anyone explain to me why some bikes have fluid brakes instead of cable? I know with cars, they use fluid so that all the brakes receive equal force, but if it’s only actuating one caliper, what is the advantage of fluid over a cable?
You should test some normal rim brakes too. Like Shimano dual pivot road brakes on an aluminium rim. It will be interesting to see if they last longer before complete failure of brake action.
Something I think would be really interesting to do. Run this test again, then quench the metal while it's red hot and see if you hardened it (assuming it's steel).
I would go for a workshop T shirt! Fun video.
You should try this again with mechanical disk bike brakes. No fluid to boil. Would it just wear out the pad super fast?