Stefan, this is is hands down one of my favorite homeshop maching channels for cool projects, excellence in technique and clear explanations on how to achieve the most with modest equipment, often modified and enhanced to perfection. This Old Tony would get the nod for most entertaining content, production shenanigans, cool projects, and dubious "Dad Jokes". I admire and reapect you both.
what kind of diamond wheels are those again? And, more importantly, how do you dress them? I've got a couple of cheap import ones and they're all loaded up and black now... though they did completely EAT carbide for breakfast when they cut.
My wheels come from an Ukrainian manufacturer - I generaly use two grits, D126 for roughing and D40 for finishing. I usualy dress them with a piece of molybdenium, followed by the sharpening stick, to dress the resin binder back and make the wheel cut again. If a cup wheel is off very much, you can also lap it flat on a piece of glas with Silicone carbide lapping compound. I showed that in a video earlier this year ;)
Just want to thank You again for the excellent tip of re using the Paul Horn mini boringbars! 👍 I never used them before due to price, but now use regrounds extensively. Made a few holders for the lathe and boring head. I like the P Horn holding system better than the others I had, I am actually quite impressed by the stability and depth of cut that works despite their tinynes... Easy to change tools as well. Found a 16mm MEGA holder (B105.0016.01) that is offset and perfect for regrinding and relieving in the D-bit grinder, the offset is usually perfect for reliefs when re purposing an old insert.
Well, that was serendipitous! I've just picked up a box of 1/4" carbide tool blanks with the intention of grinding a boring bar or two :-):Cheers Stefan.
Excellent tutorial. I do not have a cutter grinder but have made similar tiny boring bars by hand on the grinder in HSS. A bit crude but with some honing they usually work OK. Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
Thanks a lot for this very valuable video! I just bought 2 of these very same grinders, one for my own shop and one for a company I do work for. Made the decision based on Yours and Robins videos. Making carbide boring bars seems really useful to me. My production of raw material for these is in the mill is no problem... Also intend to try a CBN cup to decrease dust and perhaps get a bit more repeatability over a number of parts. Present project is to facet grind some very small parts with tight tolerances in some different hardened steels. Btw I ordered 6 extra wheel holders, they are under 30 euros each.
Great video and interesting take on small carbide tools. Very cool little machine for grinding. Years ago we did similar tools by hand on the basic “bench” diamond grinders with adjustable tables. That always involved an acid brush full of kerosene for coolant flying in your face to keep the diamond wheel clean. A hand-held die grinder with a small diamond wheel was used for adding chip breakers, etc. l get the carbide rigidity thing but still like the idea of custom carbide-tipped tools and high-speed too. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Stefan, I see you are channeling GH Thomas Just last night at work I was reading through his book and read the section on boring bars, he described making small boring bars the same way but from HSS. Thanks for sharing Cheers
An excellent video - both instructional content and close-up camera work. Those two long boring bars (at 7 mins.) with the TiN coating and angled rear alignment surface are Sandvik CXS series - I like them because they are very easy to make the tool holders for, compared with the pHorn style.
Hallo Stefan. Das ist ein sehr anschauliches video. Vielen Dank für die Erklärung. Nebenbei ist es auch dein bestes Video bis jetzt. Sehr schön erklärt und auch gut geschnitten. Gruß Larry
Very cool. Someday I will grind my own small carbide boring bars but until then I will stick with my Circle Machine carbide boring bars. You will be amazed at what they can do. Circle Machine guarantees a 10:1 ratio with moderate feeds and believe me they can do it. I have a 5/32” (4MM) CM bar that takes miniature CDCD inserts with either a .002 or .007” nose radius and have had no issues boring 1.5”. I got it all for about $100 with a handful of inserts. Look for them on Ebay. You can find them in metric too and they use the same inserts
Thank you for sharing this important content with us i never have seen a bad video from you and I have never not learned from a video from you so I am grateful for what you're doing and hope you keep on doing this good work 👍😏
Great timing Stefan. I'm just in the process of grinding some special shaped lathe tools and need to go beyond the 90/0 degrees for the relief. Examining my Chinese DBit grinder I can now see how to do it. The Cinglish 'manual' has no mention of how to. Although a different method is used, once you showed how, it's now blindingly obvious.
Great video! I have purchased a single lip cutter grinder per your influence. Have all ready used it for projects. I would love to see you use it more on videos to expand my uses for it.
I only use miniature Sherline and Taig lathes for my model engineering projects ( the old Myford doesn't get used much these days ) and I now only use the Sandvik CXS boring bars , the ones you showed with the gold coating . They work very well on a small machine and can be used on holes from 4mm up wards. I have had no luck trying to grind tools using broken bits of tooling on a bench grinder. I guess that I am not just very good. LOL.
Hi Stefan - this was a great video. I'd love to learn more about what the various carbide grades are and how they compare to some of the cheaper tooling available. e.g. Banggood's "Carbide steel". Which to me is an oxymoron. If you have any videos on this topic, please let me know. Thanks, Craig
Stefan, it seems to me that you could somewhat increase the stiffness, or get a deeper eccentric for the same stiffness, by grinding a larger radius on the eccentric portion. For clearance, the radius on the eccentric cut doesn't have to be any less than the radius of the blank. You would end up with an (American) football-shaped cross section on the shaft. The downside, I guess, is that you would leave less room for chips to flee.
Yes, there are many possibilities to make them more suitable for certain tasks. Just play around in cad and see how cross sections and clearances change :)
Stefan have you consider milling a flat on the bushing opposite the set screw? You could then just push the flat against the wheel to set your reference before clamping down on the collet. It would be like using the face of a chuck to re-align a qctp.
I’m trying to dip my toes into skiving for a very tiny and delicate little lathe part. I was wondering if you have ever tried it and if you had any insight into grinding the cutters.
The PH Horn bars look very nice and you can get them in bunches, but I couldn't find a toolholder anywhere and couldn't make one in a hurry so I went with the Micro100 ones...They have a much simpler toolholder with comparable repeatability and their only downfall is being imperial sizes. They offer blanks too! PS: Since I made a 1/8" toolholder I silver braze tiny carbide tips on the tool steel shanks of PCB drills and it works great. Also the deep neck is used to avoid torsion and thus prevent rotation in the holder, as the edge is on the centerline. The PH Horn ones won't be that susceptible to this. Finally you want to make sure that the back side of a "solid" carbide endmill is actually carbide. Just balance it on your finger...the flute side should be lighter than the shank side. Most of them are not as solid as the name implies....
Hello Stefan, I have a Deckel SO grinder and I can't figure out how to do what you did at movie time 19:45, to grind the back relief angle. I am not able to swing the joint beyond 0 deg.(to the left) Do you know if is't this possible with Deckel SO? I have checked the bottom side of the joint, there are two 5mm hex sockets for adjustment but suppose those are for fine adjustment of the end stop of the joint Thank you, Laszlo
Hello Stefan. Great educational video. I also use a similar D-bit grinder and like their versatility very much. in my eyes they are a good and helpful shop tool, esp. when you need to create/sharpen a tool right now :)
Very good presentation of how to use the d-bit grinder to make small boring bars. Could you please do a similar video of how you ground your mini dovetail cutter for machining the dti holder.
Hi Stefan, how would you explain inconsistent reflection (shape of ID?) observed at 27:25 ? My first guess was its because of chuck squeeze, but it was already squeezed during cutting, so in the end should be perfectly round right?
Horn inserts are quite something for sure, the quality is just beyond and still unmatched by other vendors. we use them in our shop regularily, the smallest one is for 0.3 mm ID upwards. if only they were not expensive as fuck, the other insert we have with CBN for 6 mm ID upwards at 15 mm depth for hardenend steel clocks at around 80 euros without discount... great vid and tremendous job on the grinding, you should really consider doing edge radius tho.
Why didn't you made the relieve more eccentric? (Rotation point outside the shaft like in the original Horn boring bars) With this there would be more material in the stressed parts and less grinding.
Is it wrong that I'd buy one of those bits ground by Stefan over one off-the-shelf? The surface finish looks really good....but I suspect it may not be quite as good with my own lathe. Maybe Stefan could send me one to test! ;-D
Very informative! I"ll probably never have a use for this information (LOL), but I still love learning about it. I really liked this video as is the case with probably every video you've made, honestly and I'm pretty sure I've watched all of them. One of these days I'll get around to getting some basic metal working equipment, but the house I live in now has ANCIENT wiring and I literally have fuses and not breakers (15A for the wall plugs, and a 30A for the washer/drier). Yeah we gotta fix that, but the house will be sold in the next year or two and I'll be in a different one with up-to-date wiring and a nice heated workroom in the basement. What would you recommend if I had to get one thing, a smallish lathe or a milling machine? I've always wanted a small lathe for making metal parts. I absolutely LOVED using my woodshop class wood carving lathe even though the tools were crap and the lathe was not exactly treated well by the High School kids. Once I get all my debts paid off, I'll probably get a lightly used lathe and mill locally haha. We'll see - it's all a dream now, but a completely reasonable one if I get my sh*t together with my money - I make plenty, but spent more. Stupid credit cards, it's all their fault - I take no responsibility! /s
With the geometry you gave it (and the fact that it is solid carbide), shouldn't it *theoretically* be possible to plunge these boring bars directly into unbored workpieces? Theoretically. Kind of like a parting tool... but axial...? Sorry if I'm sounding like a complete noob (which I am).
Yes, that works within certain limitations. In plastic and soft metals like aluminium I do that often, in steel its very demanding on the tool and its alignment. But yes, absolutely possible - people like pHorn even sell miniature boring tools that are designed to drill and bore.
@@StefanGotteswinter I've also been wondering if the _sole_ purpose of the "eccentric section" is to ensure that there is nothing behind the "½-diameter flat head section" that can rub against the inside of the bore. _If_ that is the case, then must the boring bar be clamped such that it is parallel to the axis of rotation of the lathe chuck? In other words- the boring bar is obviously _fed_ *straight into* the workpiece when it is used, but must it also be _clamped_ that way? What if it was clamped at a slight angle? (anti-clockwise by a few degrees) Then there wouldn't _be_ anything to rub against the "inner wall" of the bore no matter how far in you went. Right?
This is terrific Stefan! I'll have to give it a try with my D-bit grinder. On that topic, I'd love to know how you dress your resin-bonded diamond wheels on that grinder. I might just have to spend a little more and get some name-brand diamond cup-wheels, so far all I have is the Chinese one it came with and that one hammers the work quite a bit. But trying one of these will be a good reason for me to get back to some of the tuning I still have to do on that machine :)
very good tutorial, i also had to buy a dbit grinder after the introduction to it a few months back. this one helped clear up some clouds i had in my head. any word on the electronic lead screw upgrade you did? i would very much like to see that. thanks again for your time making these videos.
@@StefanGotteswinter Thank you! I've never really understood the use of these, but this video is an easy sell! Looks like a super handy piece of equipment to have in the shop!
Thanks for the video. It was very interesting. I would also like to see more videos on using the single lip cutter grinder. Do you know of a supplier of the older style 16mm deckel collets?
@@StefanGotteswinter I hope someone from Siemens PLM is watching your videos and will eventually figure out how beneficial would it be if their software appeared in your videos.
Has anyone ever thought of putting a blind hole trough shaft of boring bar? I mean pipes are tougher to bend than a full peace of steel.Might be something worthy of trying.
stefan, this most boring content has never been presented better!
Stefan, this is is hands down one of my favorite homeshop maching channels for cool projects, excellence in technique and clear explanations on how to achieve the most with modest equipment, often modified and enhanced to perfection. This Old Tony would get the nod for most entertaining content, production shenanigans, cool projects, and dubious "Dad Jokes". I admire and reapect you both.
Thanks Stefan for the great videos. This is by FAR my favored machining channel.
I have a great source of carbide shank blanks. I make them myself on my mill :D
what kind of diamond wheels are those again? And, more importantly, how do you dress them? I've got a couple of cheap import ones and they're all loaded up and black now... though they did completely EAT carbide for breakfast when they cut.
My wheels come from an Ukrainian manufacturer - I generaly use two grits, D126 for roughing and D40 for finishing.
I usualy dress them with a piece of molybdenium, followed by the sharpening stick, to dress the resin binder back and make the wheel cut again.
If a cup wheel is off very much, you can also lap it flat on a piece of glas with Silicone carbide lapping compound. I showed that in a video earlier this year ;)
@@StefanGotteswinter link to manufacturer of wheels? I am ukrainian and I would be proud to support local manufacturer
Stefan Gotteswinter I concur, refractory molybdenum is the way to go. We use these for our Agathon grinders at work.
Just want to thank You again for the excellent tip of re using the Paul Horn mini boringbars! 👍
I never used them before due to price, but now use regrounds extensively. Made a few holders for the lathe and boring head. I like the P Horn holding system better than the others I had, I am actually quite impressed by the stability and depth of cut that works despite their tinynes... Easy to change tools as well. Found a 16mm MEGA holder (B105.0016.01) that is offset and perfect for regrinding and relieving in the D-bit grinder, the offset is usually perfect for reliefs when re purposing an old insert.
Well, that was serendipitous! I've just picked up a box of 1/4" carbide tool blanks with the intention of grinding a boring bar or two :-):Cheers Stefan.
Excellent tutorial. I do not have a cutter grinder but have made similar tiny boring bars by hand on the grinder in HSS. A bit crude but with some honing they usually work OK. Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
A complete tutorial for boring bars.
Thank you so much sharing your knowledge!
Thanks a lot for this very valuable video!
I just bought 2 of these very same grinders, one for my own shop and one for a company I do work for. Made the decision based on Yours and Robins videos. Making carbide boring bars seems really useful to me. My production of raw material for these is in the mill is no problem... Also intend to try a CBN cup to decrease dust and perhaps get a bit more repeatability over a number of parts. Present project is to facet grind some very small parts with tight tolerances in some different hardened steels. Btw I ordered 6 extra wheel holders, they are under 30 euros each.
When I grow up, I want to have a scrap carbide bin! Non-machinist thus far, but I will be a hobbyist one day, learned a lot. Keep up the great work!
Trust me, you’ll have more broken carbide tooling than you need after you do this for awhile
Very well done! I better get a cutter grinder picked up soon before you and Steve drive their prices thru the roof like shapers now. :-)
No kidding on the shaper pricing!
Here in Perth , Shapers are like rocking horse shite to get hold of !
Thank you! I ordered a grinder today. Really, your content and clear explanations are tremendously good and much appreciated.
I'd still like to see a full video on grinding D bits as there doesn't seem to be much out there.
Great video and interesting take on small carbide tools. Very cool little machine for grinding. Years ago we did similar tools by hand on the basic “bench” diamond grinders with adjustable tables. That always involved an acid brush full of kerosene for coolant flying in your face to keep the diamond wheel clean. A hand-held die grinder with a small diamond wheel was used for adding chip breakers, etc. l get the carbide rigidity thing but still like the idea of custom carbide-tipped tools and high-speed too. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Stefan,
I see you are channeling GH Thomas
Just last night at work I was reading through his book and read the section on boring bars, he described making small boring bars the same way but from HSS.
Thanks for sharing
Cheers
I adore mr. G.H.Thomas, highest respect for his livetime work.
You're a true master of craftsmanship! love your work!
Abom's toothpicks.
Stephan took a FULL MILLIMETER doc, that's serious.
His teeth and toothpicks are in imperial ,so metric toothpicks wont work-
Abom sized staff is nothing compared to Brian Block toys
An excellent video - both instructional content and close-up camera work.
Those two long boring bars (at 7 mins.) with the TiN coating and angled rear alignment surface are Sandvik CXS series - I like them because they are very easy to make the tool holders for, compared with the pHorn style.
We really like those nice micro mini boring bars they are great. Lance & Patrick.
Hallo Stefan.
Das ist ein sehr anschauliches video. Vielen Dank für die Erklärung.
Nebenbei ist es auch dein bestes Video bis jetzt. Sehr schön erklärt und auch gut geschnitten.
Gruß
Larry
Please stop adding equipment to my want list... ;-)
Nicely presented..
Very cool. Someday I will grind my own small carbide boring bars but until then I will stick with my Circle Machine carbide boring bars. You will be amazed at what they can do. Circle Machine guarantees a 10:1 ratio with moderate feeds and believe me they can do it. I have a 5/32” (4MM) CM bar that takes miniature CDCD inserts with either a .002 or .007” nose radius and have had no issues boring 1.5”. I got it all for about $100 with a handful of inserts. Look for them on Ebay. You can find them in metric too and they use the same inserts
Thank you for sharing this important content with us i never have seen a bad video from you and I have never not learned from a video from you so I am grateful for what you're doing and hope you keep on doing this good work 👍😏
Stefan, Thanks for sharing...Explained and demonstrated nicely!
Great timing Stefan. I'm just in the process of grinding some special shaped lathe tools and need to go beyond the 90/0 degrees for the relief. Examining my Chinese DBit grinder I can now see how to do it. The Cinglish 'manual' has no mention of how to. Although a different method is used, once you showed how, it's now blindingly obvious.
How....serendipitous....I really needed this info. Thanks Maestro!
Great video! I have purchased a single lip cutter grinder per your influence. Have all ready used it for projects. I would love to see you use it more on videos to expand my uses for it.
I only use miniature Sherline and Taig lathes for my model engineering projects ( the old Myford doesn't get used much these days ) and I now only use the Sandvik CXS boring bars , the ones you showed with the gold coating . They work very well on a small machine and can be used on holes from 4mm up wards. I have had no luck trying to grind tools using broken bits of tooling on a bench grinder. I guess that I am not just very good. LOL.
Wonderfully presented as always! Thank you
Excellent content! And another vote for a Stefan episode covering D-Bit making & use.
The Ifanger bars are great , especially the ones with the screw on head .
Thanks Stefan, great food for thought
Hi Stefan - this was a great video. I'd love to learn more about what the various carbide grades are and how they compare to some of the cheaper tooling available. e.g. Banggood's "Carbide steel". Which to me is an oxymoron. If you have any videos on this topic, please let me know. Thanks, Craig
How brittle are the final parts? Do you have to be very careful with them? Or can they handle a small amount of impact?
Great presentation and photography ! Thanks !
Im really digging the half hour vids. Thanks!
Carbide dust collection is very important. I'm experienced in grinding presintered carbide.
Great insight on boring bars, I learned alot😊
Very nicely done Stefan!
Thanks Robin!
Stefan, it seems to me that you could somewhat increase the stiffness, or get a deeper eccentric for the same stiffness, by grinding a larger radius on the eccentric portion. For clearance, the radius on the eccentric cut doesn't have to be any less than the radius of the blank. You would end up with an (American) football-shaped cross section on the shaft.
The downside, I guess, is that you would leave less room for chips to flee.
Or maybe you could also grind a flute to guide the chips out.
Yes, there are many possibilities to make them more suitable for certain tasks. Just play around in cad and see how cross sections and clearances change :)
Stefan have you consider milling a flat on the bushing opposite the set screw? You could then just push the flat against the wheel to set your reference before clamping down on the collet. It would be like using the face of a chuck to re-align a qctp.
Good idea, should do that :)
I’m trying to dip my toes into skiving for a very tiny and delicate little lathe part. I was wondering if you have ever tried it and if you had any insight into grinding the cutters.
most 6mm end mills and up i used is ground down to 0.008-0.007mm smaller on the shank
Thank you Stefan - very interesting as usual.
Very nice, I’ve been waiting for more videos using your d bit grinder. Always like whatever you post, very professionally done.
The PH Horn bars look very nice and you can get them in bunches, but I couldn't find a toolholder anywhere and couldn't make one in a hurry so I went with the Micro100 ones...They have a much simpler toolholder with comparable repeatability and their only downfall is being imperial sizes. They offer blanks too!
PS: Since I made a 1/8" toolholder I silver braze tiny carbide tips on the tool steel shanks of PCB drills and it works great. Also the deep neck is used to avoid torsion and thus prevent rotation in the holder, as the edge is on the centerline. The PH Horn ones won't be that susceptible to this. Finally you want to make sure that the back side of a "solid" carbide endmill is actually carbide. Just balance it on your finger...the flute side should be lighter than the shank side. Most of them are not as solid as the name implies....
Hello Stefan,
I have a Deckel SO grinder and I can't figure out how to do what you did at movie time 19:45, to grind the back relief angle. I am not able to swing the joint beyond 0 deg.(to the left)
Do you know if is't this possible with Deckel SO?
I have checked the bottom side of the joint, there are two 5mm hex sockets for adjustment but suppose those are for fine adjustment of the end stop of the joint
Thank you,
Laszlo
Thanks for the video.
Hello Stefan. Great educational video. I also use a similar D-bit grinder and like their versatility very much. in my eyes they are a good and helpful shop tool, esp. when you need to create/sharpen a tool right now :)
Perfect timing. I just got a bunch of broken high quality endmills, and was wondering how to grind them into something useful.
Very good presentation of how to use the d-bit grinder to make small boring bars. Could you please do a similar video of how you ground your mini dovetail cutter for machining the dti holder.
This reminds me of making boring tools from HSS die punches. Did it on the surface grinder with a punch grinder for the off set
Excellent very informative, I would just buy them ready made if they were cheap enough
Hi Stefan, how would you explain inconsistent reflection (shape of ID?) observed at 27:25 ? My first guess was its because of chuck squeeze, but it was already squeezed during cutting, so in the end should be perfectly round right?
Fascinating. Thank you for sharing... what would you recommend for less equipped hobbists wanting to cut small hss boring bars?
Great video Stefan. Keep it up. One of these days I'll have a little shed with a couple machines in it.
watching again
I hope its helpful :)
Another excellent video Stefan
Do you prefer flat top bits vs relieved? I've found that having the cutting corner 5 degrees proud helps pull the chips and swarf away from the bore.
Since the patents ran out a couple of years back you can get off brand versions of the Horn tools too.
Oh, I didnt know that.
If you offset carbide more you get better result. Reduced shank will be more oval shape.
Also, what do you have to say about D cutters? Homemade, would you recommend these? From what kind of steel. Thank you!!!
only here for the comments. lol. learnt a lot. glad i have a stack of round carbide before prices go up!
I make my own round-carbide stock by breaking endmills :)
This makes me want to start a Quorn grinder project!
Horn inserts are quite something for sure, the quality is just beyond and still unmatched by other vendors. we use them in our shop regularily, the smallest one is for 0.3 mm ID upwards. if only they were not expensive as fuck, the other insert we have with CBN for 6 mm ID upwards at 15 mm depth for hardenend steel clocks at around 80 euros without discount...
great vid and tremendous job on the grinding, you should really consider doing edge radius tho.
Grinding is quite fun, but dust is always pain in the butt, even in flood... It sticks everywhere😤
Thanx för shearing 👍
Why didn't you made the relieve more eccentric? (Rotation point outside the shaft like in the original Horn boring bars) With this there would be more material in the stressed parts and less grinding.
Is it wrong that I'd buy one of those bits ground by Stefan over one off-the-shelf? The surface finish looks really good....but I suspect it may not be quite as good with my own lathe. Maybe Stefan could send me one to test! ;-D
good to see you back . :)
hey sr very good video whats the name of grinding machine ?
Great presentation!
Very informative! I"ll probably never have a use for this information (LOL), but I still love learning about it. I really liked this video as is the case with probably every video you've made, honestly and I'm pretty sure I've watched all of them. One of these days I'll get around to getting some basic metal working equipment, but the house I live in now has ANCIENT wiring and I literally have fuses and not breakers (15A for the wall plugs, and a 30A for the washer/drier). Yeah we gotta fix that, but the house will be sold in the next year or two and I'll be in a different one with up-to-date wiring and a nice heated workroom in the basement.
What would you recommend if I had to get one thing, a smallish lathe or a milling machine? I've always wanted a small lathe for making metal parts. I absolutely LOVED using my woodshop class wood carving lathe even though the tools were crap and the lathe was not exactly treated well by the High School kids. Once I get all my debts paid off, I'll probably get a lightly used lathe and mill locally haha. We'll see - it's all a dream now, but a completely reasonable one if I get my sh*t together with my money - I make plenty, but spent more. Stupid credit cards, it's all their fault - I take no responsibility! /s
With the geometry you gave it (and the fact that it is solid carbide), shouldn't it *theoretically* be possible to plunge these boring bars directly into unbored workpieces? Theoretically.
Kind of like a parting tool... but axial...?
Sorry if I'm sounding like a complete noob (which I am).
Yes, that works within certain limitations. In plastic and soft metals like aluminium I do that often, in steel its very demanding on the tool and its alignment.
But yes, absolutely possible - people like pHorn even sell miniature boring tools that are designed to drill and bore.
@@StefanGotteswinter I've also been wondering if the _sole_ purpose of the "eccentric section" is to ensure that there is nothing behind the "½-diameter flat head section" that can rub against the inside of the bore.
_If_ that is the case, then must the boring bar be clamped such that it is parallel to the axis of rotation of the lathe chuck?
In other words- the boring bar is obviously _fed_ *straight into* the workpiece when it is used, but must it also be _clamped_ that way?
What if it was clamped at a slight angle? (anti-clockwise by a few degrees)
Then there wouldn't _be_ anything to rub against the "inner wall" of the bore no matter how far in you went. Right?
Excellent as usual.
Stefan i used to spend days grinding tools now i go to eBay and auctions like you modify them .I've turned out to be Mr. Cheapo and make 💰💰💰🙌
Nivea work Stefan. I also was thinking of how to grind the Robin boring bars. 👍
This is terrific Stefan! I'll have to give it a try with my D-bit grinder. On that topic, I'd love to know how you dress your resin-bonded diamond wheels on that grinder. I might just have to spend a little more and get some name-brand diamond cup-wheels, so far all I have is the Chinese one it came with and that one hammers the work quite a bit. But trying one of these will be a good reason for me to get back to some of the tuning I still have to do on that machine :)
Is the 6 jaw you use, self centering(true) or set true type? Or is it independent?
Its is set true
Thk you Stefan ! Now i just have to try :)
Whatever became of the Simplex Steam Engine?
very good tutorial, i also had to buy a dbit grinder after the introduction to it a few months back. this one helped clear up some clouds i had in my head. any word on the electronic lead screw upgrade you did? i would very much like to see that. thanks again for your time making these videos.
Could watch you all day.......
What tool & cutter grinder is this? Your website shows a Knuth KSW 200 Universal, but I think this looks much different. Great video!
Thats a dbit grinder or singlelip cutter grinder like a Deckel S0.
@@StefanGotteswinter Thank you! I've never really understood the use of these, but this video is an easy sell! Looks like a super handy piece of equipment to have in the shop!
Thanks for the video. It was very interesting. I would also like to see more videos on using the single lip cutter grinder. Do you know of a supplier of the older style 16mm deckel collets?
Great video! When do we get to see the 11? I guess I will have to some footage of mine.....
Thanks! The Emco will be covered soon. At least an overview.
Excellent Content~~~Thanks
Mr Gotteswinter,
I use this type of tool so it was interesting to see how there made.
Very interesting video for making boring bars. Good explantion about all corners. What is happen with your dust-brush?
The long boring bars are from Simtek. Used to be one company with pHorn
nice video and just a question, I am just curious is there a benefit to using such small boring bars compared to using a drill bit and reamer?
An accurately located hole.
Nice tools.
The 'ol mill turn single tool machine eh? I've been looking for a machine that uses both in one tool, saves on carbide costs. 😉
As any CAD software provider would be happy to support you - I'm wondering why did you go for Alibre instead of a SolidXxxx?
Probably because SolidXxxxx ain't cheap
@@mpetersen6 Doesn't matter, he gets it through his job.
In an earlier video, he mentioned licensing and cloud storage concerns.
well, even as I use it commercialy, money is a concern, always. And if a lower tier tool gets it done, thats the tool to choose.
@@StefanGotteswinter I hope someone from Siemens PLM is watching your videos and will eventually figure out how beneficial would it be if their software appeared in your videos.
Thanks Stefan, really helpful. BobUK
are you saying Paul Horn?
Would you make me a set pretty please? I can't afford a d bit grinder :(
Hi stefan you confused us as well thanks alot ,,, am joking absolutely thanks for your high quality video.
I need to get me a tool and cutter grinder
Has anyone ever thought of putting a blind hole trough shaft of boring bar?
I mean pipes are tougher to bend than a full peace of steel.Might be something worthy of trying.
If of the same material, hardness, and length, the answer is definitely NO!
"Hufnagel" lol x P