Rear Disc Brakes and a 300ZX Gas Pedal For My 5.0 Swapped 1968 Mustang
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- čas přidán 30. 06. 2024
- In this episode I install the Ford Explorer disc brake master cylinder in my '68 Mustang to complete the four-wheel disc brake conversion. I also finalize the custom wiring hardness and convert my throttle linkage to a drive-by-cable gas pedal from parts I had left over from my Nissan 300ZX project.
00:00 - Intro
00:22 - 5.0 Swap Wiring Harness Finish and Wrap
03:41 - Mustang Disc Brake Conversion Master Cylinder
05:27 - Mustang to Ford Explorer Master Cylinder Swap
07:32 - Mustang Master Cylinder Tear Down
12:19 - Mustang Master Cylinder Bench Bleed
12:49 - Ford Explorer Master Cylinder Install Into 1968 Mustang
14:42 - Motive Brake Power Bleeder Brake Bleeding
16:54 - 1968 Mustang Cable Driven Gas Pedal Conversion
20:50 - Cable Gas Pedal Install in my 1968 Mustang - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Nice work on the harness. That looked great. Whole project is turning out really well. Going to be another fun car.
I have 2 Explorer donors...one for a mustang and one for my 77 Bronco....this is great stuff
Good taste in cars man! These Explorers are gold mines for swaps, especially for that Bronco 👍
😎 dude, I definitely, would spend like twice the time, to re fabricate, a used anything pedal assy that I already owned, than buy a new one. Cost aside, as I'm just a stubborn, cheep bastard !!!
PS, that "wall of auto supply store" shelves, behind you, in garage, is da bomb !!!!
Haha I guess that makes two of us then
Love the attention to detail 👌 your cars are always top shelf
Great video!
Thanks!
You could cut the line and put on the new fitting on the old line as well. I make up all my own brake lines anymorel. Loving the build.
What type of flaring tool do you use? I’ve always struggled with brake lines, really any hard lines for that matter. Especially inverted and bubble flares.
@noboltsleftbehind I use a vevor compression one. In the video on my channel that I do brakes on my 72 I use it. However I tried on stainless and it was a no go and that's just to do with the line material. I recommend copper nickle lines. They will not rust out but won't crack when flairing. Also I was going to send you one of my stickers if you want one. I'll pm you on ig about it.
This over head view of the factory Export Bracelet you modified looks awesome like something a 60’s race team would do I’m so glad I got to see it in the overhead view while you were working on the master cylinder. I love Tesa tape too I used it when I redid the harness on my ‘89 Mustang Notchback it had the cracked wire insulation too. I was told by a guy that works on German cars that Tesa also keeps insulation from getting brittle as well as being abrasion resistant. Could you post information on what fuse block you used it’s nice and compact. Awesome job I just subscribed today!!
Thanks man! Good to hear about the Tesa tape, it's gonna be my new wire wrap of choice from now on for sure. I got that fuse/relay block from Amazon: amzn.to/4aoouuA . I used the same one in my Challenger for my Hemi swap build, three years and like 10k miles and it's still working great!
I love your Mukilteo population sign. Late 1960 to 1970 Era.
You’re the first person to mention it, it’s one of my most prized possessions.
@noboltsleftbehind I know that area very well. Worked up the hill at Boeing 35 years on 747 and 777 aircraft . I have done a lot of scuba diving along Mukilteo. I have lots of questions on the wiring you did. I'm working on a 1972 Bronco. I'm right now pulling out the engine on a 1998 5.0 explorer to install in my Bronco.
@@darrell119 ask away! I’m happy to help wherever I can
@noboltsleftbehind where or what, did you use to figure out what wires go where? The wiring looks very intimidating.!
@@darrell119 as far as harness strip-downs go, it wasn't too bad. I more or less followed the "efi guy"s guide, the video is here: czcams.com/video/RaY-9v-SO_0/video.html . I found some of my '96 wire colors to be different, some missing, and some extras. But the pin locations seemed to match on the PCM. Also, if you don't already know you'll have to deal with VATS security lock since yours is a '98. There seems to be a lot of mystery surrounding this, but I think I've figured it out.
That gas pedal will definitely add 5 HP
I was thinking you could cut and reflair the brake line with new metric fittings for the Explorer master cylinder
That definitely would have been the simplest way, haha. I've just never had good luck flaring these brake hardlines and getting them to seal correctly, especially the bubble flare type
Love it man, you're doing so much stuff i'd be a little scared to do, like the gas paddle!
Do you need to use seam sealer on that plate you bolted in for that? Or because it's in the engine bay it doesn't really matter that much?
Love the project!
Thank you sir! I did actually seam seal that firewall hole in the back side, I just cut that part out of the episode :)
You could have probably just changed the fittings on the end of the brake lines ???
Yes, definitely could have but I’ve had such bad luck getting brake hard lines flared, especially these bubble flares or whatever they are.
@@noboltsleftbehind they can be hard to make sometimes ex specially if you don’t do it often. I did a mustang about 20 years ago and I was able to run a lot of the engine bay wiring up it the inter fenders/wheel wells to clean up the engine bay. It looked a lot cleaner afterwards. Just a thought.
What size wheels/tires are you running?
Wheels are 15x7 and tires are 215/65R15