Ep 136 Windlass Parts and Fischer Panda Generator Repair
Vložit
- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- Back to our windlass for routine maintenance and our Fischer Panda 6Kva Generator, which might be a bit more than routine.
The windlass had a known crack in what is called the “lower clutch cone”, which was an easy enough repair. The footage shown is more about how these units work and what to look for during teardown. I also add a few of my thoughts on anchoring and using the windlass, for what it’s worth.
The generator was a bigger deal. For literally months we kept having an intermittent fault in our genset start circuit. We went down several rabbit holes trying to track it down, and watching that is useful for the person trying to diagnose this, or a similar, problem.
sailing yacht talisman, sailing, sailing youtube, boating, top sailing, oyster yachts, oyster sailboats, oyster 485, offshore, bluewater, blue water, sailing vlog, sailing vblog, sailing channels, sailing videos, cruising, monohull, BVI, BVI chartering, BEYC, fischer panda 6kva generator, repairs, issues, starter
Hey Kevin and Wendy my family just dined at the Moonlite Bay in Crosslake MN while vacationing on the Whitefish chain! God bless you and thank you for having us onboard.
Thanks Greg. Glad to hear you're having fun and living life!
Well done Kevin, you have a first class approach to diagnostics. Unless you are in the field you cannot know ‘everything’ and it comes down to systematically working through and making no assumptions. One thing that catches people out - is assuming the new part you are fitting is actually working - don’t ask!
You can never have enough tools - I refer to them as man jewellery!
😀👍⛵️
Hi Norman. Wendy liked the "Man Jewelry" term, but it's a bit lost on her since she doesn't wear jewelry much. As for diagnostics, I advise absolutely to start with the simplest possible explanation you can think of and go from there. It becomes a process of elimination, but often the answer is simple and inexpensive. And our minds are prone to imagining the worst, so we immediately want to believe all is lost.
I do love a full and organized tool chest.
Yep.
kevin , favorite sailing channel
Thanks much!
Hi Kevin, great video, when we bought Singapore Sling I didn't have a full survey - big mistake! Tried the windlass - blue smoke and burning smell from motor. First job on the list was a replacement. Interestingly, the clutch on the new one (Quick) was greased, but the winch handle socket tightens it down without a problem. I reckon Gensets are the bain of any cruiser. For the record, our Onan is giving us huge grief as the motor (Kubota 2 cyl like yours) runs fine but the alternator does sweet nothing. On advice I had to clean the slip rings (like motor brushes) and then found out that the voltage regulator had died. I was told that the most likely cause is lack of use and subsequent arcing causing a voltage spike and blowing the AVR. More money 😞. Anyway, it looks like you are on top of all of this. BTW, our davits are brilliant. Many thanks for all your help on this with the pics etc... All the best...
Thanks Dick. Too bad about the Onan. I've always thought they were a good unit. As you say, the Kubota diesel is a workhorse, but it always seems to be the stator side that causes issues. We've been blessed so far, but I suspect we're on the last leg for our Fischer Panda. Great to hear about the davits. I don't know what we'd do without them.
Always exciting to see your technical episodes, Kevin. Two notes on the French-made vertical windlass.
I have a Goiot 24V that is fitted with a friction disc clutch. This often rotated during anchor up and loosened the star nut causing the chain to slip out. Goiot had no solution so I screwed a M10 left-hand threaded screw into the star actuation. The system is of course now rigid.
The axle of the winch is subjected to corrosion and water has run in. With SKF repair sleeves I got this tight again and attached a lubrication option on the side.
Maybe someone will find this info useful.
Cool Albert. Thanks for the info. Ours is a 24V/1500W Lofrans Leopard, and I'd buy another one tomorrow if I had the need. It's an incredible piece of kit, and the guys at Budget Marine in Sint Maarten swear by it. Ours came with the boat, but was a replacement for the 1000W Lewmar version that was speced by Oyster as the OEM windlass. Most have been swapped out over the years as they proved underpowered for the task (for an 18T dry/ 23T actual weight boat).
Just went through starting issues in my old super m lol, it would turn over and start when I jumped the starter but not when I used the on the floor starter switch so figured it was the start switch, I believe I changed it out about 20 years ago also lol, sometimes you have to drive a tractor made in 1948 without power steering or live power it’s cool
Hi Brad. Great comment. My grandfather had a 1942 WWII surplus Willies CJ-2 Jeep that we (me and my male cousins - the girls took care of the horses - were tasked with maintaining). The Jeep had a floor starter, and we just figured that's how the world worked. Our version of a multimeter was a light bulb with two wires soldered on. Or a screwdriver. And I'll tell you right now that our Yanmar 4JH2 is a marinized tractor engine. If I do my job right that thing will last forever. But I've had no control over how well the previous owners treated her. We'll see.
Kevin it’s sounds like the panda fisher starter issue, was probably down to high resistance contacts on your starter solenoid.
The low current side pulls in the starter solenoid, but the large high current contracts have a high resistance so would limit stater current flow. I expect if you check the resistance of the failed stater contacts they would be high and burnt out.
Take care love videos
Mike
Hi Michael. I think in the end it was a matter of the starter tab contact vibrating loose somewhere under the solenoid cover, creating an intermittent loss of connectivity. Perhaps a small screw or similar. This is probably repairable, although given the effort and hassle of removing and installing the starter I was done with fighting with the old version. I did keep that starter as a spare, and maybe one of these days I'll tear it down for inspection.
be interesting to see what you classify as your primary tools and what you feel are must haves and then ones as luxuries.
I'm thinking about doing an episode on that. Pull everything out and then explain what level of importance it has. Generally though, my main bag is common hand tools. Screwdrivers, pliers, adjustable wrenches, scrapers, etc. Ratchets and combination wrenches have their own bag as they clutter things up. Everything else is in one of 3 other bags.
Take a heavy lead like a jump start cable, from the positive side of the battery, and touch it on the starter positive contact. If the starter motor spins fast, then it's not the starter it's the wiring or the solenoid. If you then bridge the large positive contact with the small solenoid positive contact that comes from the starter switch, with a screwdriver, that should test the solenoid. It should spark heavily and turn the starter fast. If it only clicks...the solenoid is shot.
Hi Nick. See the adjacent post. Your tests are spot-on, and I did each in turn. But as it happened, the start contact tab was coming loose inside the solenoid housing somehow. Or perhaps a wire was coming loose there. Either way, almost certainly an easy repair once off and in hand. But since I had a new one set to go I went that way instead. I did keep the old starter as a spare in case it's needed in the future (with a note in the box describing what was going on). Never did get the clicking you mention, but I've heard it on cars many times. I think that would be if the solenoid itself were weak and failing, or getting too little juice.
This is correct above. The thing is I only learned the trick at age 14 on the farm. But all the way through university engineering no one taught how and why it works that way...... Hands on learning has to make a comeback or we will be 1 generation from being a caveman again. Sorry to say that.
@@daviddecker264 Yes, but true!
There should be brushes in that starter motor. You should replace them and see if that helps.
Yep. There is. But I left some stuff out. Bridging the start pole to the battery in pole would activate the starter every time. The problem was somewhere else. We got 12v power at the start pole every time we pressed the start button on the panel, and invariably following every touch of that pole with the multimeter probe, the damn thing would start fine. I finally figured out, and this was the actual issue, that the start pole was coming loose inside the solenoid somehow. Pressing or pushing it would lead to good results, and I even zip tied it to one side for a while. But given how difficult it is to remove and replace, using the new starter I had in hand was the obvious path.
@@SailingTalisman I see so the motor is good to go you feel but you think the solenoid is intermittent. Maybe the plunger is not operating correctly like sticking sometimes. But it also could be on the low draw key side of the solenoid. Like there could be a lose connection to the electro magnet that activates the plunger. Was the solenoid humming or buzzing when it would not start. Or any noise from the motor?
@@SailingTalisman I like problem solving and fixing things. The challenges of being a cruiser must be exciting for people like me. I'm jealous 😉
nice video glad to see you still making them i learn so much thank- you
Thanks John.
James sent me.
Well welcome aboard. James rocks.
Thanks for the latest release of boat DIY porn!
You bet Sam!
Your starter problem sounds like a ground fault.