Hello Thomas, I really I apreciate your videos, and I enjoy them a lot. I miss previous diagnosis procedures before you change pieces. I think it would be interesting to know how to diagnose errors. I follow you from Spain, and I encourage you to continue with these videos. Great job.
Andoni Cadenato Velasco This was a no start that had a blown fuel pump fuse... I check the current draw of the pump with a scope (so I can see the pattern). Sample: czcams.com/video/LKh5X0xpSNg/video.html When the pumps go bad, they can stop spinning and you can sometimes get them spinning again by hitting against the bottom of the fuel tank. Sample: czcams.com/video/tpAbsCpXKN4/video.html
Nice man, i have the same car A4 B5 and need take off the pump for change but is so difficult to make and now i see your video show like easy but i gonna try take off without hurt me. Thanks man
Did this job, super easy, no special tools used or needed. I'm wondering what would happen if the one connection in the tank was switched? The one clamp is a 'T' but the other one, could it be reversed? Ever since I replaced mine a week ago with a used one a lot of times I have to crank it sometimes 10 times and feel like I need to apply the gas pedal before it finally starts but I'm wondering if I have a loose hose clamp in the tank or if I need a new Fuel Pressure Regulator or Coolant Temp Sensor(online forum suggestion). Or if I plugged the one clip in backwards. I'll have the fuel pressure tested at AutoZone first.
@Thomas EXOVCDS hey Thomas! Sorry utube didn't let me comment but I can reply to other ppl for some reason🤷🏻♂️.... First of all love the vid! I have a pump on in there mail should be here on the weekend... My '01 2.8 had ran like a top since I got it until I was in a hurry and tried to stretch out my fuel mileage after my cluster was screaming at me to FILL UP,,, it ran fine I parked it for a couple hours about 1.5miles from the gas station when I got back in I was headed straight to get gas and it fired up for just a blip (2sec's tops) then stalled it did that 3-5 times in 15min then it started and I made it to the gas station but ever since it will start up fine when it is cold but stalls after 10-15 min of driving. Dose that sound like the fuel pump is on its last lag to you??? I’m hoping I didn’t mess anything els up... The has 150k in it and in the second owner and have the hole history in a file so I know that it is the original pump, would you know who tight that ring in the bottom of the tank will be if it hasn’t been removed before? Hoping I can do it by hand??? Not sure if you will see this by the time I get my part’s.... I just read through all your comments/answer’s Defiantly earned a sub from me! Now gonna go check out you playlist!
Hey Thomas just wanted to thank you again for this video. It helped alot. I was able to unlock my pump without the tool thank God. Only hiccup I might run into is on those connectors. Like you said one is stepped and one is parallel but the problem I'm thinking of is if I put the parallel one on correctly as I'm guessing it can go on one way or be flipped around and go the other way. I kinda had to guess. None of the videos or my book said anything about it so I didn't think to make note of direction it was facing. Lol fiqure I got a 50/50 chance. I'm sure it will be fine. I put a walbro 255 pump in. Thanks again for this video.
@@EXOVCDS Lol I'm sure it's fine. Looks to be facing the right way and not twisted. Well I'll know in the am when I fire her up. Thanks again bud. Can't wait to feel it after doing fuel pump, injectors and new tune.
@@EXOVCDS hey Thomas I fired it up after work and it started and is running fine but my gas gauge isn't working. Guess I wasn't that lucky with that parralel connector! Lol. I'm assuming that's for the gas level wire. Edit: actually I just switched that parralel plug and it wouldn't start. So I'm guessing it was the correct way. It's wierd how the gauge isn't working. I have it opened up and the ball and float is fine in there. Do you happen to know what controls the gauge in the tank Thomas? Thanks for any advice.
Sorry about the late reply... are you sure that the float is not caught on something (stuck / not able to move)? Wiring diagram shows float / level sensor wire as violet/blk going to instrument cluster. The other side of the sensor / wire is grounded.
@@EXOVCDS hey no problem bud. Well here's the most recent update...Did the fuel pump, started the car and fired right up and running good but I noticed my gas gauge is on dead E, wasn't moving a bit on start up, so I took it off and I switched that parallel plug around, car wouldn't start just turn over, took it off again and switched it to how I had it and started right up. I checked in there at the float which is moving up and down freely and resting in the gas and the wires coming off the float mechanism looked fine, nothing seems out of place at that electrical box and brown mechanism that works the float. Only thing I can think of is I dropped that parallel plug into the gas itself. But the thing I don't get is that plug has to be working cause when I switched it it wouldn't start and switched it back and it started. Could it have to do with me having to wire in the walbro pump? I had to wire the positive and negative into the new walbro pump into the stock Audi connector. But the pump was working and running.
They are a pain to remouve and reinstall back on the bottom of the tank sometimes do you replace the fuel filter when you put a new pump I know I doo I would be surprises if you dind't.
Oh look! That watermark behind your videos is finally gone! That thing always bugged my OCD lol. Anyway, love the channel btw. Ive gotten so much help from these videos for my audi a4.
Alexander Case There are a lot of sites that are embedding my videos / playing them and making money off of them. The water mark helps me make sure that it is my videos that they are using... eventually I might be able to stop them form using them (need money and a lawyer).
Garth Goldberg I'll keep it in mind, thanks! There are too many to chase down... if I partner with a network, they "supposedly" go after those guys. If my channel keeps growing, I might consider joining a network.
Great video man my s4 is having the problem I have to hit the tanknto get it started and it cuts off when I try to drive so would you say the fuel pump is out and where is the fuel filter located thanks man
Yes... pump is most likely bad. Fuel filter is under the car between the fuel tank and the chassis. Look under the car on the same side as where the fuel pump is.
my 2006 audi a4 cuts off when I step on the gas pedal at a stop and also feels like cutting out while driving. Had an idea it might be the pump and change it myself but now I see this video, Im gonna have a mechanic do it.
Hey bro just wondering if you could help me out I got a Audi A4 2.0tdi b7 convertible 07 plate sometimes I can’t hear the fuel pump like you usually would? It starts most mornings but after a drive I turn it off and go back 10 mins later no fuel pump noise and it won’t start?
What is the engine production code? PD engine or Common Rail? When it does not want to start, with the key in the ON position... is the check engine light ON (it should be)? If it is not on, then the ECM is not "awake / powered up". Could be a problem with the power supply relay.
I have 2000 Audi A4 1.8t (I think B5). Does the tool #3307 fit this year? All over the net, 3307 is listed as only fitting years 2002 and later. I changed the pump once without it. But this time, it's just stuck in there.
Yes, but gas shouldn't go everywhere as long as the fuel level is low enough. Some gas will come out of the feed line if the engine was recently running (residual pressure).
Hey, thanks for the vid. My fuel gauge maxes out around 3/4. Needle output test - cluster is ok. I've heard that sometimes people hook up the sender unit backwards, like plug it in reverse polarity, and it causes that. Could that be my problem? Can't see why that would cause an issue... pump is fine otherwise
If you've heard that... could be true. I don't know. How long have you had the car? When did it start to act up? Did you change / work on the pump assembly?
The white one you have on the tabel , lok like mine , its a audi a4 b5 from 12/2000 1,8 petrol ,avant/station car. is it like the one i mean the blue or is it like the white one you have on tabel in video ? if there is different , are the prositure the same for both greetings from denmark
The two pumps (in my video) are for 2 different vehicles. Did you already remove your old pump? You have to replace it with a pump that looks the same / is the same. The old pump has a part number on top of the cover (blue or white cover). Use that number to order the correct pump.
i havet removed it yet , the top cover is white and what i sor down under it was like you're white one on the tabel så throat it might be different,But have not remove it yet, så there is stil time hehe , i vil lookr the number on the top cover , thank you very much I have not locate the fuel problem yet , only its the relay or the pump , i have a 1997-1999 2,4 v6 sedan 4 door perhaps the relay and the pump the samme il look tomorrow , i have had the relay out and manually first it to close vile its in the car and the pump stil dont work, and the relay is getting power , but i was runding out of battery power hehe så i am not sure there is enough to make the relay klik and when manual behaps its not enough to run the pump. i dit messer the connection purple one and its only about 1,5 volt on one pin and the rest of them ,tere is 3 there is abut 3,7volt when ignition is on , but then again i vas runding out of battery pover ,you nov startter relay start to klik hehe so it vilbe tommorw , but thanks again for yore replay
The fuel pump can be activated directly, by applying power & ground at the top cover connector. The 2 big pins on the harness plug are power & ground. Fuse 28 is for fuel pump... thick green/yellow wire is "power wire" and thick "brown wire" is ground wire. Apply power & ground to those "pins" on the fuel pump cover and see if the pump runs.
il already have tjek the fuse many times , i have a flair for burning fuses hehe and damm godt at it så i tjekt lol, i was wondering whats is what on the harness to the cover , so thanks, i vil certainly do that so thanks , there are to brown ones så i imagen il grund them both and put plus/pover on the green /yellow . i had a plan on taking cover off and se what vieres go to where, but this is so muths easier så i thank you were muths
Great video! Just a quick question here, I have a 1.8t b5 a4 and I have to replace the fuel line that goes from the gas tank to the fuel filter. Those two hoses you removed the one time use clamps from, is one of them the line I have to change?
Yes... should be able to snake it down / up with tank in place (if I recall correctly). worst case, the tank straps need to be loosened and the tank lowered a bit).
Our 1.8T b5 has a really hard time starting up when cold.Sometimes have to try to start it about 10 times, after it warms up it starts right up and also has no power, if you floor it it doenst rev, it goes in limp mode and after a bit you can hear a low pop sound, but it has LPG too and it runs perfect in it. Recently I replace a really clogged fuel filter. My guesses are: 1. Inside filter particles are stuck in the lines 2. Pump is dying slowly This week I will try to messure the amount of gas in LPH coming out the filter. I think this car doenst have a fuel pressure port in the engine bay. I also took the fuel rail and looked inside each injector and didn't had anything, took the intake manifold and the chamber had almost no build up. Any guesses? I will post the solution when find it, so it will be helpful for others, also will make it to the forum
Sounds like it is running lean... could be fuel pump or injectors. How long does it run on LPG? If it is mainly running on LPG, it could be that the injectors are not opening correctly because they are not always used. I would start with checking fuel pressure at the rail (disconnect the fuel line & splice a pressure gauge between the hoses) and flow. If fuel flow & pressure is good, remove the injector rail and look at the spray pattern. Check coolant temperature with a scan tool... if the ECM thinks that the engine is warm, it will inject less fuel than the engine needs and that will result in hard starting / less power. However, once the engine is warm, it should start & run normally... if not, check injector spray pattern.
It runs on LPG most of the time, but it always starts on gas then switch to LPG. Also it runs out of LPG weekly so sometimes it runs on gas only. I will tray the sensor and the fuel pressure, that I think is to blame due to no power and the really clogged filter I changed. Thanks!
I have a 2000 audi TT 1.8 My fuel gauge was acting erratically., I changed the fuel pump thinking that could be the problem, but it didn't fix it. What it does is, sometimes it works just fine/ normal and sometimes it just drops dead and doesn't move. Any suggestions or ideas? Thank you for your help ☺
Did the fuel pump come with a new sending unit / float level? What I would do... is run an "output test" on the instrument cluster gauges / needles. Basically what that does, is move all the needles through their full travel, from left to right and then the needles will / should stop in the middle. I would do that test a few times in a row. If at any time the needle does not respond as it should, then the problem is with the gauge / cluster and not with the fuel pump level sensor circuit. Yes, there could be an issue with that circuit... but ruling out the gauge / cluster itself would be a good first step. A generic OBD scan tool will not be able to run that output test, since you will need a scan tool that can communicate with more than just the Engine computer. I use VCDS to communicate with the ECM & other modules.
Thomas EXOVCDS Yes it did come with everything, if may add that Right now I have a check engine light that says cylinder 1 misfire detected, I changed spark plugs and and switched ignition coil from cyl. 1 to cyl. 4 . Check engine light came back on telling the samething. Can the CEL cyl.1 misfire I have now be related to the fuel abnormal performance of the fuel gauge I have had for the past year. (I gave up trying to figure it out. And been driving it like that) But now this CEL cyl. Misfire is making me wonder if is related. Thanks much for replying ☺
No, I don't think it / they are related. Check the injector & spark plug of #1 cylinder... compression test can't hurt either. Constant miss or only under certain conditions?
www.ecstuning.com/b-hamburg-tech-parts/fuel-pump/8d0906089a~ham/ Contact them to make sure that it is correct for your vehicle! www.ecstuning.com/ContactUs/
I replaced my pump, also replaced the intake line from the pump to the filter. I remember when I was taking off the intake line the fuel would flow out makes sense because it is pressurized well even before replacing the line the intake line would not have any fuel in it... is it the fuel pump. Do the fuel pumps come with an intake valve that keeps the pressure in the line?
Is the pump buzzing? The black hose on the top is the feed to the front. The blue hose is the return hose. If you swas the hoses, the car won't run / start. There are arrows on the two pipes that show fuel travel direction. If the pump is buzzing but you have no fuel at the fuel rail, then the filter might be plugged.
I have a huge question maybe you could help. So I have a 2004 Audi A4 1.8T in process of changing pump purchased pump from oreillys said it was direct fit but fuel pump in the car seems to be similar to a 2006 fuel pump has 3 plugs but new one has 2 I’m at a total loss could I somehow use the fuel pump I purchased?
@@EXOVCDS this is the fuel pump that looks like is in my car. www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/7497-05806591.html?DN&PartsGeek+Google+Base&+Audi+A4+Fuel+Pump+VDO+228-235-036-006Z+03-06+Audi+Fuel+Pump+04+05&fp=pp&gbm=a&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiqWHBhD2ARIsAPCDzalXi7i1l-r96QcF1QapcbTOmDyQIqHK3AFS3q_iObUR9kJr59HuBoEaAmMXEALw_wcB
@@ChaseHollandProductions not sure why you would have that style in the car... if you try to modify the O'Reilly pump, you won't be able to return it if you can't make it work. You are better off buying the newer version / the same that you took out.
hacatan24 It is best to drain some fuel out... remove the return hose (blue) from the top of the pump cover, attach a hose to the return fitting and siphon the fuel out from there.
How much fuel is in your tank. My sending unit is bad and I need to fix it. Need to get an idea of how much gas I can have in it without running out since my gauge does not register.
@@EXOVCDS Thank yo - much appreciated. BTW I forgot to ask - What are the best replacements for the one-time use clamps at the top, screw worm clamps or another one time use clamp like an ear clamp (oetiker for example). Thanks
@@EXOVCDS One additional question as I have not done this before. When rewiring and soldering the sending unit are there any considerations being that the unit is in gasoline? Also BTW, I did measure the hoses for one time clamp replacement and I am confident the correct part number are Oetiker 16700013 ear clamps. They look to be the correct size when clamped. Thanks again.
Hi. Thank you for the video. What tool are you using to twist open the collar nut? Can you provide a tool number? Also, I am watching this video to learn how to gain access to the fuel sending unit since mine has gone nuts. Is this where the sending unit is located? Do you have a video on that? Thanks again.
The sending unit is mounted to the side of the fuel pump housing. Once you have the top cover off, you will be able to see the sending unit and the wires that attach to the underside of the top cover. My tool is similar to this one: www.amazon.com/Esweny-Removal-Spanner-Universal-Adjustable/dp/B084119C3W
Great video. I gave my engine bay a cleanup with some spray for engine bays. I fucked something up and i think maybe my fuel pump has died. I can try cranking amd cranking and cranking the engine without it even really trying to start. Suddently my engine starts up but dies quickly as i press the gass pedal. I can see in my diesel filter that the fuel has been sucked in and i have to constantly re-fill it but that doesn't always help either.
Nikolai aka CasSpell have someone tsp the underside of the fuel tank with their hand, while you try to start the engine... the fuel pump could be stuck. Tapping the tank can get the pump spinning again. Key on... The check engine light SHOULD come on. Does it?
I can try :) No Check Engine lights. My Audi doesn't even have that on it's instrument panel but instead a glow plug indicator that appears when a connection goes wrong somewhere.
VW 3307, $67.09 (plus shipping) from Snap On, or $125 from Samstag Sales. (I have no idea why it's twice as much. Snap On always has the genuine article, usually Hazet or Matra/Kukko). Is this all VW which need the tool (i.e. T4) or just Passat and Audi A4?
Garth Goldberg Your T4 does not require it... your pump can be loosened by hand (I believe I have a video of a T4 pump removal). In most cases there is always a "work around" if you do not have a specific tool... but having it, makes the job easier.
About every one of these fuel pumps ive seen replaced online are easy compared to my q5 that friggen thing is a nightmare. Every time you try to install it that damm pickup hose gets jammed and crimps up and you have to keep taking the pump out cause the hose is unable to pick fuel up.Audi is nothing but junk they have way too many tiny things that can easily go wrong and all it takes is one thing and your out a vehicle for who knows how long. Audi should do the loigical thing and only have one pump if one pump dies the car dies reguardless if you have one or three. They engineered their cars into obsolete junk. Kiss keep it simple stupid. Only morons are impressed with bells and whistles loyal buyers are impressed with a car thats going to run and get them from a to b on a daily basis with no problems.
SFlightline my videos are an overview of what is involved. I record while I am at work... If you can't follow along with what is going on... you probably shouldn't work on your car.
SFlightline Are you fucking serious???? Thomas goes through the trouble of making a video to help others out and you comment that?? What an ungreatful, entitled, spolied piece of shit human being you are. Please stay away from your car as I'm positive you couldn't turn a wrench. I'm guessing once you were 1 min in and saw him taking off the cover you realized it was too hard a job for someone such as yourself.
No. I identified someone whose skills are lacking so looked elsewhere. And you have to come out of your trolls cave and have a little rant... Oh bless all the little trolls in your world!
You a badass my brother! Great info
Thank you for watching!
Hello Thomas,
I really I apreciate your videos, and I enjoy them a lot. I miss previous diagnosis procedures before you change pieces. I think it would be interesting to know how to diagnose errors.
I follow you from Spain, and I encourage you to continue with these videos. Great job.
Andoni Cadenato Velasco This was a no start that had a blown fuel pump fuse... I check the current draw of the pump with a scope (so I can see the pattern). Sample: czcams.com/video/LKh5X0xpSNg/video.html When the pumps go bad, they can stop spinning and you can sometimes get them spinning again by hitting against the bottom of the fuel tank. Sample: czcams.com/video/tpAbsCpXKN4/video.html
Nice man, i have the same car A4 B5 and need take off the pump for change but is so difficult to make and now i see your video show like easy but i gonna try take off without hurt me. Thanks man
Thank you for watching!
Did this job, super easy, no special tools used or needed. I'm wondering what would happen if the one connection in the tank was switched? The one clamp is a 'T' but the other one, could it be reversed? Ever since I replaced mine a week ago with a used one a lot of times I have to crank it sometimes 10 times and feel like I need to apply the gas pedal before it finally starts but I'm wondering if I have a loose hose clamp in the tank or if I need a new Fuel Pressure Regulator or Coolant Temp Sensor(online forum suggestion). Or if I plugged the one clip in backwards. I'll have the fuel pressure tested at AutoZone first.
Thank you very much, this was super helpful!
Thank you for watching!
@Thomas EXOVCDS hey Thomas! Sorry utube didn't let me comment but I can reply to other ppl for some reason🤷🏻♂️.... First of all love the vid! I have a pump on in there mail should be here on the weekend... My '01 2.8 had ran like a top since I got it until I was in a hurry and tried to stretch out my fuel mileage after my cluster was screaming at me to FILL UP,,, it ran fine I parked it for a couple hours about 1.5miles from the gas station when I got back in I was headed straight to get gas and it fired up for just a blip (2sec's tops) then stalled it did that 3-5 times in 15min then it started and I made it to the gas station but ever since it will start up fine when it is cold but stalls after 10-15 min of driving. Dose that sound like the fuel pump is on its last lag to you??? I’m hoping I didn’t mess anything els up... The has 150k in it and in the second owner and have the hole history in a file so I know that it is the original pump, would you know who tight that ring in the bottom of the tank will be if it hasn’t been removed before? Hoping I can do it by hand???
Not sure if you will see this by the time I get my part’s.... I just read through all your comments/answer’s
Defiantly earned a sub from me! Now gonna go check out you playlist!
you are my hero
thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!
Thanks. Very helpful.
Thank you for watching!
Hey Thomas just wanted to thank you again for this video. It helped alot. I was able to unlock my pump without the tool thank God. Only hiccup I might run into is on those connectors. Like you said one is stepped and one is parallel but the problem I'm thinking of is if I put the parallel one on correctly as I'm guessing it can go on one way or be flipped around and go the other way. I kinda had to guess. None of the videos or my book said anything about it so I didn't think to make note of direction it was facing. Lol fiqure I got a 50/50 chance. I'm sure it will be fine. I put a walbro 255 pump in. Thanks again for this video.
Thank you for the update... good to hear things went well. 50/50 is good odds! =)
@@EXOVCDS Lol I'm sure it's fine. Looks to be facing the right way and not twisted. Well I'll know in the am when I fire her up. Thanks again bud. Can't wait to feel it after doing fuel pump, injectors and new tune.
@@EXOVCDS hey Thomas I fired it up after work and it started and is running fine but my gas gauge isn't working. Guess I wasn't that lucky with that parralel connector! Lol. I'm assuming that's for the gas level wire. Edit: actually I just switched that parralel plug and it wouldn't start. So I'm guessing it was the correct way. It's wierd how the gauge isn't working. I have it opened up and the ball and float is fine in there. Do you happen to know what controls the gauge in the tank Thomas? Thanks for any advice.
Sorry about the late reply... are you sure that the float is not caught on something (stuck / not able to move)?
Wiring diagram shows float / level sensor wire as violet/blk going to instrument cluster. The other side of the sensor / wire is grounded.
@@EXOVCDS hey no problem bud. Well here's the most recent update...Did the fuel pump, started the car and fired right up and running good but I noticed my gas gauge is on dead E, wasn't moving a bit on start up, so I took it off and I switched that parallel plug around, car wouldn't start just turn over, took it off again and switched it to how I had it and started right up. I checked in there at the float which is moving up and down freely and resting in the gas and the wires coming off the float mechanism looked fine, nothing seems out of place at that electrical box and brown mechanism that works the float. Only thing I can think of is I dropped that parallel plug into the gas itself. But the thing I don't get is that plug has to be working cause when I switched it it wouldn't start and switched it back and it started. Could it have to do with me having to wire in the walbro pump? I had to wire the positive and negative into the new walbro pump into the stock Audi connector. But the pump was working and running.
They are a pain to remouve and reinstall back on the bottom of the tank sometimes do you replace the fuel filter when you put a new pump I know I doo I would be surprises if you dind't.
Yes, we recommend fuel filter at the same time.
Oh look! That watermark behind your videos is finally gone! That thing always bugged my OCD lol. Anyway, love the channel btw. Ive gotten so much help from these videos for my audi a4.
Wait never-mind, still there. Lighting made me think it was gone.
Alexander Case There are a lot of sites that are embedding my videos / playing them and making money off of them. The water mark helps me make sure that it is my videos that they are using... eventually I might be able to stop them form using them (need money and a lawyer).
*****
Send me a message. I can do some pro bono.
Garth Goldberg I'll keep it in mind, thanks! There are too many to chase down... if I partner with a network, they "supposedly" go after those guys. If my channel keeps growing, I might consider joining a network.
Do they have the same pump in a diesel,car as my cranks over but won't fire like it's not getting any fuel?
Regards
What year vehicle? Which version of diesel?
Great video man my s4 is having the problem I have to hit the tanknto get it started and it cuts off when I try to drive so would you say the fuel pump is out and where is the fuel filter located thanks man
Yes... pump is most likely bad. Fuel filter is under the car between the fuel tank and the chassis. Look under the car on the same side as where the fuel pump is.
my 2006 audi a4 cuts off when I step on the gas pedal at a stop and also feels like cutting out while driving. Had an idea it might be the pump and change it myself but now I see this video, Im gonna have a mechanic do it.
Paul Zamora Have someone diagnose / look at it first... might not be the pump.
Hey bro just wondering if you could help me out I got a Audi A4 2.0tdi b7 convertible 07 plate sometimes I can’t hear the fuel pump like you usually would? It starts most mornings but after a drive I turn it off and go back 10 mins later no fuel pump noise and it won’t start?
What is the engine production code? PD engine or Common Rail?
When it does not want to start, with the key in the ON position... is the check engine light ON (it should be)? If it is not on, then the ECM is not "awake / powered up". Could be a problem with the power supply relay.
Got a b5 that takes usually two or three cranks to start and runs about 15 mins till it dies and goes limp, could this be the fuel pump?
Possibly... you'll have to do some testing to eliminate various items.
I have 2000 Audi A4 1.8t (I think B5). Does the tool #3307 fit this year? All over the net, 3307 is listed as only fitting years 2002 and later. I changed the pump once without it. But this time, it's just stuck in there.
+Jong Kung It's mentioned in the 1997+ B5 service manual, so yes, I think it will work.
How you did it without the Tool? I am going to try next week
Hello and thanks for all the videos. I was wondering if it is the same for the Passat wagons? Thank you.
What year wagon... probably.
I was looking at a 2000 Passat wagon.
TheKillerPoncho Yeah, the B5 Passat will be similar as this Audi.
Ok cool. Thank you and have a great day.
can you relieve gas tank pressure somehow, like taking gas cap off or some other way so gas doesn't go everywhere?
Yes, but gas shouldn't go everywhere as long as the fuel level is low enough. Some gas will come out of the feed line if the engine was recently running (residual pressure).
okay, i'll give it a try.
I’m in the process of doing mine but when I when to auto zone they only sell the pump nothing else
What's the question? What else are you looking for?
I wonder why did did not make them like the mk4 VW they are not secured to the tank .
Securing to the tank makes more sense to me (stability), but it is more of a pain to replace.
Hey, thanks for the vid. My fuel gauge maxes out around 3/4. Needle output test - cluster is ok. I've heard that sometimes people hook up the sender unit backwards, like plug it in reverse polarity, and it causes that. Could that be my problem? Can't see why that would cause an issue... pump is fine otherwise
If you've heard that... could be true. I don't know. How long have you had the car? When did it start to act up? Did you change / work on the pump assembly?
@@EXOVCDS since I've owned it, somebody in the past possibly changed it. I'll take it out and check, it'll have to be fixed swapped out either way.
Ok... let me know if swapping makes a difference.
@@EXOVCDS I will, it should be resistance based so it shouldn't affect anything, I dunno, I just heard it on another CZcams video
The white one you have on the tabel , lok like mine , its a audi a4 b5 from 12/2000 1,8 petrol ,avant/station car. is it like the one i mean the blue or is it like the white one you have on tabel in video ? if there is different , are the prositure the same for both greetings from denmark
The two pumps (in my video) are for 2 different vehicles. Did you already remove your old pump? You have to replace it with a pump that looks the same / is the same. The old pump has a part number on top of the cover (blue or white cover). Use that number to order the correct pump.
i havet removed it yet , the top cover is white and what i sor down under it was like you're white one on the tabel så throat it might be different,But have not remove it yet, så there is stil time hehe , i vil lookr the number on the top cover , thank you very much
I have not locate the fuel problem yet , only its the relay or the pump , i have a 1997-1999 2,4 v6 sedan 4 door perhaps the relay and the pump the samme il look tomorrow , i have had the relay out and manually first it to close vile its in the car and the pump stil dont work, and the relay is getting power , but i was runding out of battery power hehe så i am not sure there is enough to make the relay klik and when manual behaps its not enough to run the pump. i dit messer the connection purple one and its only about 1,5 volt on one pin and the rest of them ,tere is 3 there is abut 3,7volt when ignition is on , but then again i vas runding out of battery pover ,you nov startter relay start to klik hehe so it vilbe tommorw , but thanks again for yore replay
The fuel pump can be activated directly, by applying power & ground at the top cover connector. The 2 big pins on the harness plug are power & ground. Fuse 28 is for fuel pump... thick green/yellow wire is "power wire" and thick "brown wire" is ground wire. Apply power & ground to those "pins" on the fuel pump cover and see if the pump runs.
il already have tjek the fuse many times , i have a flair for burning fuses hehe and damm godt at it så i tjekt lol, i was wondering whats is what on the harness to the cover , so thanks, i vil certainly do that so thanks , there are to brown ones så i imagen il grund them both and put plus/pover on the green /yellow . i had a plan on taking cover off and se what vieres go to where, but this is so muths easier så i thank you were muths
Just did this today, used a long pair of pliers to unlock the pump. Was super stuck in place
Thank you for watching and thanks for sharing the long pliers trick!
what audi year is this?, my 2012 A5 seems easier, clip off in out intake lines, then disconnect the power connector, then twist out......
Audi B5 platform was produced from 1994-2001.
OMG he owns a trouble light!
I'm sure you do as well.... OMG.
Great video! Just a quick question here, I have a 1.8t b5 a4 and I have to replace the fuel line that goes from the gas tank to the fuel filter. Those two hoses you removed the one time use clamps from, is one of them the line I have to change?
Yes... should be able to snake it down / up with tank in place (if I recall correctly). worst case, the tank straps need to be loosened and the tank lowered a bit).
Thomas EXOVCDS I can’t thank you enough for this!
Our 1.8T b5 has a really hard time starting up when cold.Sometimes have to try to start it about 10 times, after it warms up it starts right up and also has no power, if you floor it it doenst rev, it goes in limp mode and after a bit you can hear a low pop sound, but it has LPG too and it runs perfect in it. Recently I replace a really clogged fuel filter. My guesses are:
1. Inside filter particles are stuck in the lines
2. Pump is dying slowly
This week I will try to messure the amount of gas in LPH coming out the filter. I think this car doenst have a fuel pressure port in the engine bay. I also took the fuel rail and looked inside each injector and didn't had anything, took the intake manifold and the chamber had almost no build up.
Any guesses? I will post the solution when find it, so it will be helpful for others, also will make it to the forum
Sounds like it is running lean... could be fuel pump or injectors. How long does it run on LPG? If it is mainly running on LPG, it could be that the injectors are not opening correctly because they are not always used. I would start with checking fuel pressure at the rail (disconnect the fuel line & splice a pressure gauge between the hoses) and flow. If fuel flow & pressure is good, remove the injector rail and look at the spray pattern. Check coolant temperature with a scan tool... if the ECM thinks that the engine is warm, it will inject less fuel than the engine needs and that will result in hard starting / less power. However, once the engine is warm, it should start & run normally... if not, check injector spray pattern.
It runs on LPG most of the time, but it always starts on gas then switch to LPG. Also it runs out of LPG weekly so sometimes it runs on gas only. I will tray the sensor and the fuel pressure, that I think is to blame due to no power and the really clogged filter I changed. Thanks!
Oh one more question.... I want to check fuel pressure on my audi a4 b5... where can I check it?
hacatan24 1.8T or 2.8L
***** 2.8
hacatan24 You need to splice into the fuel rail... remove the feed hose at the rail and T a pressure gauge between the hose and the rail.
***** oh ok thanks man.
I have a 2000 audi TT 1.8
My fuel gauge was acting erratically.,
I changed the fuel pump thinking that could be the problem, but it didn't fix it. What it does is, sometimes it works just fine/ normal and sometimes it just drops dead and doesn't move.
Any suggestions or ideas?
Thank you for your help ☺
Did the fuel pump come with a new sending unit / float level?
What I would do... is run an "output test" on the instrument cluster gauges / needles. Basically what that does, is move all the needles through their full travel, from left to right and then the needles will / should stop in the middle. I would do that test a few times in a row. If at any time the needle does not respond as it should, then the problem is with the gauge / cluster and not with the fuel pump level sensor circuit. Yes, there could be an issue with that circuit... but ruling out the gauge / cluster itself would be a good first step. A generic OBD scan tool will not be able to run that output test, since you will need a scan tool that can communicate with more than just the Engine computer. I use VCDS to communicate with the ECM & other modules.
Thomas EXOVCDS
Yes it did come with everything, if may add that Right now I have a check engine light that says cylinder 1 misfire detected, I changed spark plugs and and switched ignition coil from cyl. 1 to cyl. 4 . Check engine light came back on telling the samething.
Can the CEL cyl.1 misfire I have now be related to the fuel abnormal performance of the fuel gauge I have had for the past year.
(I gave up trying to figure it out. And been driving it like that)
But now this CEL cyl. Misfire is making me wonder if is related.
Thanks much for replying ☺
No, I don't think it / they are related. Check the injector & spark plug of #1 cylinder... compression test can't hurt either. Constant miss or only under certain conditions?
Thomas EXOVCDS
Thank you for your suggestions and advice!!
I will follow them
Thank you!!
I will post my progress on this issue as I work on it. ☺
I’m struggling to find the full fuel pump only finding it in separate parts.
www.ecstuning.com/b-hamburg-tech-parts/fuel-pump/8d0906089a~ham/
Contact them to make sure that it is correct for your vehicle!
www.ecstuning.com/ContactUs/
@@EXOVCDS I appreciate the help new to the B5 scene. Thank you !
I replaced my pump, also replaced the intake line from the pump to the filter. I remember when I was taking off the intake line the fuel would flow out makes sense because it is pressurized well even before replacing the line the intake line would not have any fuel in it... is it the fuel pump. Do the fuel pumps come with an intake valve that keeps the pressure in the line?
also could it be because I siphoned the gas out then put it back in later?
Is the pump buzzing? The black hose on the top is the feed to the front. The blue hose is the return hose. If you swas the hoses, the car won't run / start. There are arrows on the two pipes that show fuel travel direction. If the pump is buzzing but you have no fuel at the fuel rail, then the filter might be plugged.
Bulgarian Boy The pump will self prime as long as there is enough fuel in the tank 1/4 tank minimum to be sure.
Thomas EXOVCDS forgot to mention I changed the fuel filter and the pump. might be a defective pump. and it is buzzing you can hear it
Make sure that the hoses are on correctly (not reversed).
I have a huge question maybe you could help. So I have a 2004 Audi A4 1.8T in process of changing pump purchased pump from oreillys said it was direct fit but fuel pump in the car seems to be similar to a 2006 fuel pump has 3 plugs but new one has 2 I’m at a total loss could I somehow use the fuel pump I purchased?
This is what is listed for your car:
www.ecstuning.com/b-uro-parts/fuel-pump-assembly/8e0906087p~uro/
Does your original pump look like this?
@@EXOVCDS it does not it is idenctical to one that would be in a 2006 I’m guessing it’s been converted.
Post a video or link so I can see.
@@EXOVCDS this is the fuel pump that looks like is in my car. www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/7497-05806591.html?DN&PartsGeek+Google+Base&+Audi+A4+Fuel+Pump+VDO+228-235-036-006Z+03-06+Audi+Fuel+Pump+04+05&fp=pp&gbm=a&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiqWHBhD2ARIsAPCDzalXi7i1l-r96QcF1QapcbTOmDyQIqHK3AFS3q_iObUR9kJr59HuBoEaAmMXEALw_wcB
@@ChaseHollandProductions not sure why you would have that style in the car... if you try to modify the O'Reilly pump, you won't be able to return it if you can't make it work. You are better off buying the newer version / the same that you took out.
whollee shit. we got identical videos.. thats funny.. U just uploaded mine today,,
Veyron640 Nice!
I got full tank.... is it bad to replace ok full tank?
hacatan24 It is best to drain some fuel out... remove the return hose (blue) from the top of the pump cover, attach a hose to the return fitting and siphon the fuel out from there.
***** thanks
Is it the same for the diesel model?
What year / model / which diesel engine? Some diesel engines don't have an electric pump in the tank.
How much fuel is in your tank. My sending unit is bad and I need to fix it. Need to get an idea of how much gas I can have in it without running out since my gauge does not register.
Anything less than 3/4 full. To be safe, less than 1/2 full. Your owners manual or service manual will tell you how much fuel the tank holds.
@@EXOVCDS Thank yo - much appreciated. BTW I forgot to ask - What are the best replacements for the one-time use clamps at the top, screw worm clamps or another one time use clamp like an ear clamp (oetiker for example). Thanks
@mptrader1620 ear or oetiker clamps. They are smooth on the onside and clamp uniformly compared to gear clamps.
@@EXOVCDS Thank you - I will remove the cover an measure and get some. Thanks again.
@@EXOVCDS One additional question as I have not done this before. When rewiring and soldering the sending unit are there any considerations being that the unit is in gasoline? Also BTW, I did measure the hoses for one time clamp replacement and I am confident the correct part number are Oetiker 16700013 ear clamps. They look to be the correct size when clamped. Thanks again.
Hi. Thank you for the video.
What tool are you using to twist open the collar nut? Can you provide a tool number?
Also, I am watching this video to learn how to gain access to the fuel sending unit since mine has gone nuts.
Is this where the sending unit is located? Do you have a video on that?
Thanks again.
The sending unit is mounted to the side of the fuel pump housing. Once you have the top cover off, you will be able to see the sending unit and the wires that attach to the underside of the top cover. My tool is similar to this one:
www.amazon.com/Esweny-Removal-Spanner-Universal-Adjustable/dp/B084119C3W
Did you get the / see the link?
Great video. I gave my engine bay a cleanup with some spray for engine bays. I fucked something up and i think maybe my fuel pump has died. I can try cranking amd cranking and cranking the engine without it even really trying to start. Suddently my engine starts up but dies quickly as i press the gass pedal. I can see in my diesel filter that the fuel has been sucked in and i have to constantly re-fill it but that doesn't always help either.
Year, make, model, engine? A diesel engine is not as sensitive to washing as a gasoline engine. Key on, is the check engine light on?
Thomas EXOVCDS no warning lights showing up and no fault codes. Audi A4 Avant B5 1.9tdi 100hp 1999 (Afn engine)
Nikolai aka CasSpell have someone tsp the underside of the fuel tank with their hand, while you try to start the engine... the fuel pump could be stuck. Tapping the tank can get the pump spinning again. Key on... The check engine light SHOULD come on. Does it?
I can try :) No Check Engine lights. My Audi doesn't even have that on it's instrument panel but instead a glow plug indicator that appears when a connection goes wrong somewhere.
And also there's no lights flashing on my instrument panel and no fault codes
For those who didn't know. To start your Audi you need to buy a... Yes you've guessed it a special tool #817432 (Yes I may say this, I got a A4 B5)
how much money would you say this project is?
thanks for the video very helpful
Fuel pump + 1hr? + tool?
www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-V6_30v/Search/SiteSearch/Fuel_Pump/
VW 3307, $67.09 (plus shipping) from Snap On, or $125 from Samstag Sales. (I have no idea why it's twice as much. Snap On always has the genuine article, usually Hazet or Matra/Kukko).
Is this all VW which need the tool (i.e. T4) or just Passat and Audi A4?
Garth Goldberg Your T4 does not require it... your pump can be loosened by hand (I believe I have a video of a T4 pump removal). In most cases there is always a "work around" if you do not have a specific tool... but having it, makes the job easier.
What year is this
Depending on location (world market) 1997 to 2001
@@EXOVCDS thank you💯
I dont want to do that :/
If the pump is dead... someone has to. =(
eww and lot of work
Justin Vancouver No smoking when doing this! LOL
I removed it with my hand. Its a bitch but it turns out.
Thank you for watching!
About every one of these fuel pumps ive seen replaced online are easy compared to my q5 that friggen thing is a nightmare. Every time you try to install it that damm pickup hose gets jammed and crimps up and you have to keep taking the pump out cause the hose is unable to pick fuel up.Audi is nothing but junk they have way too many tiny things that can easily go wrong and all it takes is one thing and your out a vehicle for who knows how long. Audi should do the loigical thing and only have one pump if one pump dies the car dies reguardless if you have one or three. They engineered their cars into obsolete junk. Kiss keep it simple stupid. Only morons are impressed with bells and whistles loyal buyers are impressed with a car thats going to run and get them from a to b on a daily basis with no problems.
I got half way through the video and gave up.... the filming is atrocious!! And the sound not much better....
SFlightline my videos are an overview of what is involved. I record while I am at work... If you can't follow along with what is going on... you probably shouldn't work on your car.
SFlightline Are you fucking serious???? Thomas goes through the trouble of making a video to help others out and you comment that?? What an ungreatful, entitled, spolied piece of shit human being you are. Please stay away from your car as I'm positive you couldn't turn a wrench. I'm guessing once you were 1 min in and saw him taking off the cover you realized it was too hard a job for someone such as yourself.
No. I identified someone whose skills are lacking so looked elsewhere.
And you have to come out of your trolls cave and have a little rant... Oh bless all the little trolls in your world!