We had to re-side our house about 15 years ago; original siding was ColorLok, IIRC, siding that broke down at the drip edge and was subject to a class action lawsuit. We went with Hardie, though I don't recall if LP was available at that time. Very happy with the choice - added sound deadening, eliminate worries about hail or other damage from typical strikes, woodpeckers live it alone, and 15 years later it still looks new.
I’m with you on the smooth texture. Traditional houses with classic clapboard siding have a smooth texture. I believe the aluminum and vinyl manufacturers started the wood grain look. other than somebody wanting a rustic cabin look the only texture was paint brush marks. Keep up the great work. I think you’re doing a great job. WE ARE !
Y’all are right about the install details! When we bought our house it already had hardie board and that was a big bonus to us. Later on we found places where poor installation caused serious damage.
I’ve had JH on my shop build for 20 years and it looks exactly the same today as it did the day it was installed. Only repainted once. Looks great, and I can power wash it with no issues.
Been waiting for this video after seeing the slicker max go up. The more I watch you guys, the more I am thinking to follow your lead for my Hardie siding. Great videos. Keep em coming...
I worked a at a James Hardie factory (formally known as chem plank). Some of the planks would end up on the floor in water and within one 12 hr shift, the planks would swell to almost twice their thickness due to absorbing that water.. tbh the planks are more paper pulp than anything. That’s why they swelled so much. Yes painting the outside surface and using the right flashings and caulk, installing it properly should prevent water damage. But if any water gets behind the hardie plank it will swell. That’s why I unfortunately choose vinyl most of the time. Vinyl doesn’t look quite as good. But if water gets behind vinyl it does nothing because vinyl is water proof.
@@MasonDixonAcres thats honestly surprising,i worked in a lumber yard that sold this stuff bout .. god what is it now, nearing 10 years ago and that stuff would the moment it gets wet just die, and it was super easy to break it in half or damage it with a little bump
I'd encourage anyone else to get a free sample and do their own test if they don't believe my anecdotal results. Yes it is a cementitious product and will break or chip if not handled with some care. Both us and our contractor who helped us install were well aware of this and it was a non issue
Cement fiber board holds paint and caulk better than LP's OSB siding. Also, it is easily repaired. Anyone can get a piece of Hardie siding and plop it into a bucket of water for a few days to see what happens. Full submersion is of course wholly outside the realm of reasonable possibilities for siding. Wet OSB based siding is something carpenter ants find delicious.
It doesn't look like it, but the inside will rot out while the exterior looks fine, but the structural integrity is fundamentally compromised. They have now added resins to the pulp mix to inhibit swelling, but It's basically still a piece of cardboard with a cement based veneer. Take a piece and hit it with a torch. It will look fine after, but becomes brittle and if you break it open you'll see the inner core is charred. Same thing happens with rot. I was a JH warranty rep and in areas with a lot of rain it just wouldn't hold up. The core rots after 10-15 years, then in can't handle thermal cycling, so another 5 years after that it starts falling apart. It will last forever in some parts of the country, but in the Appalachians, Northern Michigan/Minnesota, North East, it has a short lifespan. Not that I would install that smart side garage over it anywhere, that's just asking for trouble.
Thanks for sharing the pros & cons of each line and what you ultimately decided to go with. We found a similar take on it for LP vs Cement Fiber (though, we've only used Allura / haven't used much James Hardie here). Just wanted to say thanks for sharing! Your build is looking good! 🙂
Hardie, we did the same, for all the same reasons. We ended up with primed and painted it Urbane Bronze. Some day, I should share a photo. We also mitred the corners - that was tricky, but beautiful.
The contractor I used to work for used preferred LP over Hardy because in his experience the LP held up better to wind than Hardy. Wind would work the nails loose over time. Its possible they missed something in the installation instructions but as someone said in another comment quote, "Some of JH install recommendation is not even reasonable on what they call for so I had a rep out on the proper screw/nails that should be used". We installed hardy once when I worked there.
I have 2007 Hardie (not asbestos) on my house. I now have a second house where the outside needs remediated removal, that why I’m here. My main concern with Hardie is calcium silicate dust possibly being a hazmat removal in the future. I believe California already considers non asbestos Hardie to be hazmat removal. I’m certainly leaning towards LP because of this. Does anybody have any thoughts on this?
People have said that LP Smartside also raises dust when cut, so you need a mask. Hardie is fully recyclable. The people removing it can just wear masks.
It is obvious you have done your homework. I looked into both also.Even though there are a few professional woodworker/DIY who I listen to more than most, it is hard to wade through all the ones that would tell you newspapers make good siding because they are getting money to say that. Like your pros and cons.
Pretty good video. I did a large addition with JH board and batten. Took contractor several crews and re-dos since none of these supposed certified guys do seem to really know what they are doing. Crews who do seems to follow install caution beyond JH install instruction, which is pretty minimal honestly. Some of JH install recommendation is not even reasonable on what they call for so I had a rep out on the proper screw/nails that should be used. I did JH shakes on part of the house as DIY. JH is showing some cracks around windows on the board and batten about 2 years in. My shakes so far look pretty good. I still have some of the old house to finish in shakes, but not sure of changing product. I have read a lot of posts where contractor think it is junk. I will tend to agree if I see the product degrade on its own. Good luck on your project. Not sure why you screwed the vinyl as that would have just been roofing nailed for ease of removal while still allowing movement.
Thanks, we had no issues with Hardie install following the manual, everything was really straightforward. The cabinet screws fastening the vinyl allow movement the same as a nail, they're just easier to remove when it comes time for the addition.
@@MasonDixonAcres Please post a video showing how removing screws is faster than roofing nails :). JH lap or shingle is no harder than vinyl and DYI manageable. Dealing with large sheets of it though is not DYI so I was forced to watch and cringe paying for less than skilled labor.
Another YT video warns JH siding shouldn't be installed where it dips below 32 degrees, which I do not understand because I read JH makes different siding for different parts of the country. Do you mind sharing your thoughts on that, and telling us what part of the country you live in? Do you think JH would be suitable for Maryland?
They make two different products, one for primarily hot climates and one for climates that experience winter. There's a map on their site. We got the HZ5 planks as we are in PA, you'd want the same in MD.
Did you look into the fire (embers, sparks) resistance of these products? Just curious, I wonder if James Hardie is more fire resistant due to being partially cement?
Bummer about DK smooth side. We did DK cedar and I can't say enough good things about it. Especially if you live in a place with lots of sun, like us, I think DKs fade warranty is miles above anyone elses.
This appears to be filmed before the wind storm. Do you regret your Hardie decision after some weather? Hardie just doesn’t seem to be worth it when you factor in the installation, fabrication time, poor finish reliance and terrible impact resistance…
"Poor finish reliance" is a myth. If impact resistance is your paramount factor of importance, then go ahead and clad your house in plastic. Hardie has a more than reasonable level of impact resistance. And, in any event, is easier to repair than LP or vinyl.
Screwing the vinyl siding onto the building isn’t going to make it easier to unistall it. Faster to hammer the nails and to pull them out afterwards. Vinyl siding expands and contracts, the nails allow it to do that. Nothing you can do about it now, siding it up and ain’t going anywhere.
We had to re-side our house about 15 years ago; original siding was ColorLok, IIRC, siding that broke down at the drip edge and was subject to a class action lawsuit. We went with Hardie, though I don't recall if LP was available at that time. Very happy with the choice - added sound deadening, eliminate worries about hail or other damage from typical strikes, woodpeckers live it alone, and 15 years later it still looks new.
Nice!!
I’m with you on the smooth texture. Traditional houses with classic clapboard siding have a smooth texture. I believe the aluminum and vinyl manufacturers started the wood grain look. other than somebody wanting a rustic cabin look the only texture was paint brush marks. Keep up the great work. I think you’re doing a great job. WE ARE !
Haha glad at least someone else shares this opinion!! Thank you!
Y’all are right about the install details! When we bought our house it already had hardie board and that was a big bonus to us. Later on we found places where poor installation caused serious damage.
I’ve had JH on my shop build for 20 years and it looks exactly the same today as it did the day it was installed. Only repainted once. Looks great, and I can power wash it with no issues.
Appreciate that data point!
Been waiting for this video after seeing the slicker max go up. The more I watch you guys, the more I am thinking to follow your lead for my Hardie siding. Great videos. Keep em coming...
Thank ya sir!
I worked a at a James Hardie factory (formally known as chem plank). Some of the planks would end up on the floor in water and within one 12 hr shift, the planks would swell to almost twice their thickness due to absorbing that water.. tbh the planks are more paper pulp than anything. That’s why they swelled so much. Yes painting the outside surface and using the right flashings and caulk, installing it properly should prevent water damage. But if any water gets behind the hardie plank it will swell. That’s why I unfortunately choose vinyl most of the time. Vinyl doesn’t look quite as good. But if water gets behind vinyl it does nothing because vinyl is water proof.
I actually kept all the samples outside on the ground in the rain and mud for a couple months over the winter and none of them ever changed.
@@MasonDixonAcres thats honestly surprising,i worked in a lumber yard that sold this stuff bout .. god what is it now, nearing 10 years ago and that stuff would the moment it gets wet just die, and it was super easy to break it in half or damage it with a little bump
I'd encourage anyone else to get a free sample and do their own test if they don't believe my anecdotal results. Yes it is a cementitious product and will break or chip if not handled with some care. Both us and our contractor who helped us install were well aware of this and it was a non issue
Cement fiber board holds paint and caulk better than LP's OSB siding. Also, it is easily repaired. Anyone can get a piece of Hardie siding and plop it into a bucket of water for a few days to see what happens. Full submersion is of course wholly outside the realm of reasonable possibilities for siding. Wet OSB based siding is something carpenter ants find delicious.
It doesn't look like it, but the inside will rot out while the exterior looks fine, but the structural integrity is fundamentally compromised. They have now added resins to the pulp mix to inhibit swelling, but It's basically still a piece of cardboard with a cement based veneer. Take a piece and hit it with a torch. It will look fine after, but becomes brittle and if you break it open you'll see the inner core is charred. Same thing happens with rot. I was a JH warranty rep and in areas with a lot of rain it just wouldn't hold up. The core rots after 10-15 years, then in can't handle thermal cycling, so another 5 years after that it starts falling apart. It will last forever in some parts of the country, but in the Appalachians, Northern Michigan/Minnesota, North East, it has a short lifespan. Not that I would install that smart side garage over it anywhere, that's just asking for trouble.
Thanks for sharing the pros & cons of each line and what you ultimately decided to go with. We found a similar take on it for LP vs Cement Fiber (though, we've only used Allura / haven't used much James Hardie here). Just wanted to say thanks for sharing! Your build is looking good! 🙂
Thanks a lot!!
Hardie, we did the same, for all the same reasons. We ended up with primed and painted it Urbane Bronze. Some day, I should share a photo. We also mitred the corners - that was tricky, but beautiful.
Heard of mitered corners with wood lap but that must have been tough with Hardie. Have the sharp edges held up over time?
The contractor I used to work for used preferred LP over Hardy because in his experience the LP held up better to wind than Hardy. Wind would work the nails loose over time. Its possible they missed something in the installation instructions but as someone said in another comment quote, "Some of JH install recommendation is not even reasonable on what they call for so I had a rep out on the proper screw/nails that should be used". We installed hardy once when I worked there.
Wow. What a great presentation 👍
Thank you kindly!
I have 2007 Hardie (not asbestos) on my house. I now have a second house where the outside needs remediated removal, that why I’m here. My main concern with Hardie is
calcium silicate dust possibly being a hazmat removal in the future. I believe
California already considers non asbestos Hardie to be hazmat removal. I’m certainly leaning towards LP because of this. Does anybody have any thoughts on this?
People have said that LP Smartside also raises dust when cut, so you need a mask. Hardie is fully recyclable. The people removing it can just wear masks.
Good analysis, thanks for sharing your research.
Great Video, easy to understand. Keep Going guys.
It is obvious you have done your homework. I looked into both also.Even though there are a few professional woodworker/DIY who I listen to more than most, it is hard to wade through all the ones that would tell you newspapers make good siding because they are getting money to say that. Like your pros and cons.
Thank you!
Pretty good video. I did a large addition with JH board and batten. Took contractor several crews and re-dos since none of these supposed certified guys do seem to really know what they are doing. Crews who do seems to follow install caution beyond JH install instruction, which is pretty minimal honestly. Some of JH install recommendation is not even reasonable on what they call for so I had a rep out on the proper screw/nails that should be used. I did JH shakes on part of the house as DIY. JH is showing some cracks around windows on the board and batten about 2 years in. My shakes so far look pretty good. I still have some of the old house to finish in shakes, but not sure of changing product. I have read a lot of posts where contractor think it is junk. I will tend to agree if I see the product degrade on its own. Good luck on your project. Not sure why you screwed the vinyl as that would have just been roofing nailed for ease of removal while still allowing movement.
Thanks, we had no issues with Hardie install following the manual, everything was really straightforward. The cabinet screws fastening the vinyl allow movement the same as a nail, they're just easier to remove when it comes time for the addition.
@@MasonDixonAcres Please post a video showing how removing screws is faster than roofing nails :). JH lap or shingle is no harder than vinyl and DYI manageable. Dealing with large sheets of it though is not DYI so I was forced to watch and cringe paying for less than skilled labor.
Another YT video warns JH siding shouldn't be installed where it dips below 32 degrees, which I do not understand because I read JH makes different siding for different parts of the country. Do you mind sharing your thoughts on that, and telling us what part of the country you live in? Do you think JH would be suitable for Maryland?
They make two different products, one for primarily hot climates and one for climates that experience winter. There's a map on their site. We got the HZ5 planks as we are in PA, you'd want the same in MD.
Did you look into the fire (embers, sparks) resistance of these products? Just curious, I wonder if James Hardie is more fire resistant due to being partially cement?
Yes, there is no comparison. I think you get lower rates on your homeowner's insurance with Hardie. Also, LP needs a lot more upkeep.
Bummer about DK smooth side. We did DK cedar and I can't say enough good things about it. Especially if you live in a place with lots of sun, like us, I think DKs fade warranty is miles above anyone elses.
Definitely seems like a great product, certainly not out of the question for the future once LP works through the retooling
My wife wants to know what kinds overalls you’re wearing. I know, maybe not typical question, hehe
These are from Duluth! Love them!
Compare the cost of the vinyl to J Hardie and LP please.
At the time I purchased everything through HD it was 75/sq for vinyl and 300/sq for Hardie.
“….installed over an air gap.” What do you mean by that?
There’s a full video on it in our Exterior playlist 😉
HOW MUCH DID THEY PAY YOU???
$0.00 as noted in the description
Hardie trim is the ugliest thing. Looks like a warehouse or a garage siding
This appears to be filmed before the wind storm. Do you regret your Hardie decision after some weather? Hardie just doesn’t seem to be worth it when you factor in the installation, fabrication time, poor finish reliance and terrible impact resistance…
This was filmed after the windstorm and the Hardie only got 2 small scratches
Interested I thought you showed a lot more damage. I was looking forward to a real life Hardie repair video.
Yep all the damage was to the vinyl and one sheet of the PVC board & batten. Luckily don't have to touch any Hardie
"Poor finish reliance" is a myth. If impact resistance is your paramount factor of importance, then go ahead and clad your house in plastic. Hardie has a more than reasonable level of impact resistance. And, in any event, is easier to repair than LP or vinyl.
Screwing the vinyl siding onto the building isn’t going to make it easier to unistall it. Faster to hammer the nails and to pull them out afterwards. Vinyl siding expands and contracts, the nails allow it to do that. Nothing you can do about it now, siding it up and ain’t going anywhere.