How To Draft The All-In-One Sleeve Bodice
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- A simpler demo today to show how to flat pattern draft the all-in-one sleeve from the standard 2 dart bodice block. You see me use both styles all the time here on the channel as a starting point from which i draft many different styles, but here is a quick explainer on just how the all-in-one is created from the basic block in the first place.
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First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
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Thank you for watching!
![How to Draft Kimono sleeve patterns from Basic Bodice [Pattern Making Tutorial]](/img/n.gif)
I tried this a year ago when you first put the video out, failed so bad I didn't try again for a year, tried again, and failed again. But I kept going and figured out what I had done wrong (or rather, what I needed to change on my basic block for this modification to work)! I figured I'd comment in case anyone else had my same struggles.
- Bianca's front bodice block appears to have the side seam almost parallel to the center seam. I had to swing some of my side dart to my waist dart for my block to match.
- Bianca's front and back bodice blocks appear to be a similar width. My front block was a full 3" wider than my back block. I moved 1.5" from my front block to my back block to make them more similar
- Bianca doesn't mention it in her voice-over, but it looks like the length of the "sleeve" part of the all-in-one sleeve shoulder seam is approximately equal to the "shoulder" part of the all-in-one sleeve shoulder seam.
Before I fixed these three things, I had to put a giant swoopy curve in the arm opening because otherwise, even if I came straight up from the side seam and didn't add any extra, the shoulder seam still came nearly to my elbow. Fixing these three things, my all-in-one blocks look similar to Bianca's. I whipped out a wrap-front shirt using it over the past couple of nights, and I'm wearing it to work today! Success!
You have officially converted me to all-in-one sleeves. They're really easy to make, and they use practically no extra fabric beyond the bodice. Add the fact that they're comfortable and super cute, and you've got yourself a design winner! Thank you for introducing me to these babies, because they weren't on my radar before I started watching your videos.
Just why do pattern companies make us struggle with set-in cap sleeves and such, when there's such an easy and economical solution?
Sometimes I feel like I use the /too/ often, but then I flip through my '40s and '50s catalogs and they are ALL OVER the place so I stopped feeling guilty for using them all the time 😅❤
I was surprised at how short the video was before watching. After watching? Huh didn't need to be any longer. As always you da best
I watched your video on making a sloper from a pattern, the new bodice block one, and then the all in one sleeve dart modification. Then I, a person who has done nothing but make small hand repairs to garments, bought a sloper pattern. I was also considering an adorable late 50s/early 60s pattern but when I looked at it more closely I went "hang on that's just an all in one bodice and a gathered skirt! I don't need no stinkin' pattern!" like a person who knows what they're doing 🤣. However I stand by my decision. Once I have a sewing machine and my own table of doom I'll be unstoppable!
You've got this! Training the eye like that is the key to seeing all designs are indeed possible!
I DID IT, I MADE THE SHIRT!!! I went through the whole process of making the bodice block and have been waiting for my mockup/lining fabric for said project (curse you living in the middle of nowhere), so I decided with the about 1 meter of fabric I had to make this. And it fits and turned out great!!!!
you have officially converted me to making my own patterns this was surprisingly easy since I had the block, would have taken me way WAY longer if I hadn't done it.
I'd tried to make a block before but it was with self measurements and it came out so weird and wonky and just not it. I'm currently hand stitching the neckline facing down because I want it to be perfect, I'm so happy! It's the best fitting garment I have ever made!
You may never read this but, thank you so much for giving me the courage to make a block that fits me. I finally have one, YEAH!!!! I have completed the all in one block and I am loving my new skills and the world of patterns I can make! Again Thank you for sharing your skills😃.
Excellent work!! Hope you're having a great time drafting all the things!! ✨
I'm such a fan of all your videos but I particularly liked this shorter explanation of the pattern adjustment! It will be so nice to have this on hand as opposed to looking through the longer project videos to find these explanations
Thank you Nadja!
"DID you Miss it??"LOL Thank you for an awesome and Quick show and tell I used to get all nervous thinking of modifying a block to this and Boom it really is so very easy once you have the right blocks Again You are awesome..
Thanks Alexandra! ❤
Your videos have always been immensely helpful for taking the terror out of flat pattern drafting. They are my favorite in CZcams! I also wanted to share a book recommendation for those with dart manipulation question: Make Your Own Patterns by Adele Margolis.
Thank you Kate! ❤
Love how efficient and straight forward your videos are.
Thank you!
I thrifted a not finished jacket on the weekend and I've never made clothing but figured it was cute and $2 I'd have a crack. Thanks for sleeves! I did sew it together backwards and then sew one in on the wrong side but after finally admitting defeat and watching you put in sleeves I DID IT! Then I made interfacing and lined it so thanks for giving me the confidence to draft the pattern and forge ahead.
another comment for another watch! I have finally gotten out the block I had made by a local deessmaker and am going to sew it up and check the fit!
I have invested in posterboard and muslin and throft store bedsheets and I
AM
READY!
I want to thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge! This was so helpful and I'm amazed how you manage to explain the magic of darts in a way that is not only possible, but easy to understand and to follow. I definitely want to try out this pattern, I love the tops you showed that you made with it. You are amazing at explaining and really, I can't thank you enough. I hope you have a lovely day :)
Magic. I'm definitely going to try this. You have a great sounding voice Bianca. You could be a voice over in the movies or on the radio. 💐
Thank you Gemma! I'd love to do voice work actually, but I haven't the faintest how one gets into that 😂
I want to thank you for all your content. I especially want to thank you for sharing your vintage costume jewelry--seeing you and the fact that you remove clips and screwbacks to earrings has given me the gift of being able to wear some of my mother's and grandmother's pieces that had been just sitting in a drawer. I saw your video and thought, "Well, heck, these aren't any kind of fancy jewelry, but I like them." Boom. Now I wear the earrings all the time and get so many compliments. Thank you!!
Thank you Elaine! Things are meant to be enjoyed I figure 😅
Thanks for posting this- I know you have covered the all-in-one sleeve before, but it’s nice to have a quick way to reference!
Thank you for showing us how to manipulate the darts to make an ALL-IN-ONE SLEEVES. Much love and I must say, I love them a lot too.
Thank you Diana!
This is so easy! I can’t wait to finish my block and make this alteration. One question- if I want the shoulder to angle down more, can I add a tuck or something? I like my sleeves to be a little less square.
You can indeed draw them angled down from the original shoulder tip. The tracing of the original pattern inside sorta shows you where that top seam goes from being a shoulder seam to being a sleeve seam past the shoulder tip, and you can just adjust the angle down from there. The best way to decide on this may be to make a muslin of the full square situation like this, try it on and pin the angle you like best that still gives you enough range of motion to lift your arms and such, and then transfer/trace the exact angle you like back down onto the paper pattern.
I second what Bianca said about making a muslin of this. I tried the same modification on a dress and made the shoulder line TOO sloped; a muslin would have prevented this!
Did you miss it? Yes! I looked down at my sewing for a nanosecond and whoosh. Thank goodness for the tap back option 🤣
Eight minutes! Can it really be that easy? Brilliant as always.
Thanks Michelle! It's really that simple 😅
This is so great. I kept going back longer pattern drafting for this instruction but it’s awesome you put it in a little short reference one.
Thank you Barbie!
Thanks so much for the more detailed instructions. I love all your content (especially the hats!) but will rewatch the instructional videos a ridiculous number of times. What a lovely channel and host!
Thank you so much!
I am sticking with you you work it simple
Wow, that is great! It is very helpful. If I would have known that is so easy to add the sleeve to the bodice block, I would have done it a while ago!
And super easy to sew too, no setting in sleeves wahoo!
I love short technique video's like this!
Thank you for this tutorial! I had attempted to make an all in one sleeve block myself but the armhole was pretty tight. Now I realize the underarm seam comes out of the bust apex and not the original seam
Makes so much more sense! I'm going to try again and once I have the perfect block I also want to make the back wrap dress pattern 😍
I really like garments with this type of faux sleeves. Aside from them being flattering and super easy to put together, I just prefer to have my shoulders covered for sun protection in summer. I'm outside a lot and always carry a largish bag or backpack, which tends to mess with the sunscreen in that area. So sleeves are a must, but short, set-in sleeves are such a hassle and also less comfortable...so this design definitely gets a 10/10 from me.
I traced mine from an existing garment, but it's nice, to know the proper technique now!
I also like this format of short and to the point videos for this kind of thing. Not, that I won't happily watch the longer ones (I always enjoy listening to your commentary, while you draft and sew), but this is a very handy reference, for when one just wants to revisit a specific technique.
Thank you Rara! I've got to start breaking down techniques so I don't overload my closet again ha 😂
I love the fabulously practical ( and gorgeous!) pattern options you share with us. Thanks for sharing your pattern drafting genius!
I’m convinced darts are magical 😆 I’m watching these while I work and now I just want to go sew or more appropriately go work on making a block
I am looking forward to giving this a try. I don’t have a legitimate “block” yet, still working on that, but I will trace off my latest shirt version and see what happens. Your videos are very inspirational to me and motivate me to try new pattern modifications. Over the past two years I have been teaching myself pattern drafting, fitting, and shirt construction, and I have only begun to understand the vast possibilities. Thank you for producing these videos and for leading by example with the pattern drafting and modifications.
Brilliant . Just brilliant
Great idea to make a short video on this simple conversion :) It will be super easy to link to.
Yes! Thank you for this video! I reference your other all in one sleeve dress videos ALL THE TIME so it’s is a super handy one to have. Thank you!!!
Thank you!!! i love the all in one sleeve pattern and its nice to have this short vid to reference back to when i finish making my block pattern!
Hi ,here's a new subscriber From 🇺🇸 (USA)
Hello there!
I am too excited!
Your work is incredible.
Thank you so much for doing this in a separate video!!!! I know you've gone over it before but I'd have to watch 50 videos to find it, and then would have no time to actually get to work. :p
2 videos this week, cool!
Yeah! I have hunted through your videos trying to find the one that shows how you make this fabulous “all in one bodice/sleeve” I just recently discovered your channel on CZcams & Love, love, love your designs & tutorials. Thanks for such outstanding information!
Thank you Diana!
I loved this explanation., especially understanding the apex. The dart I am trying to deal with is one that starts low on the side seam below the waist and continues up in from the apex. There is no adjustment for petite size. I have the concept so i will be taking out my paper and trying,
YAAAHS! I've been waiting for this tutorial!!! Thanks SO MUCH!
OMG It's so easy. And it looks so stylish. Excellent explanation, thank you very much.
Thank you Artemisa! It is simple indeed!
I did blink and miss it! Thanks for asking.
Fantastic to have a simple reference video like this! Thank you SO much Bianca.
Thank you for showing this in a dedicated vlog. You always make this look so easy.
This is amazing.
PLEASE
Will you tell us how to extend this sleeve cap to make long sleeve?
Many of us cannot wear short sleeve. This would be a tremendous help.,
Thank you! I show how to make these long in my house coat video here if you'd like to see czcams.com/video/l_PhhhcLDr8/video.html
Thank you for this little tutorial, so helpful! I could really get into these little drafting reviews without the sewing part! Any suggestions on making the sleeve longer? I used an earlier version of this tutorial and my personal block to made an awesome dress. Then I decided to get fancy and made a blouse with a slightly longer sleeve (just added about an inch ) and found that it reduced mobility significantly. I'd love to make a longer sleeve version even an elbow length sleeve as seen in some vintage patterns, but not sure how to solve the mobility issue. Current plans are either adding some width across the back (my block doesn't have a shoulder dart so it's not very wide mid back to start), or making the arm hole larger by either raising the line at the shoulder or lowering at the side seam or both, but don't want to get into batwing territory.
You could try adding a gusset to the underarm, I have seen that on some vintage patterns with long all in one sleeves. Not sure if its what you are looking for but might be worth a try?
Lowering the armhole comes with it's own drawbacks, at least with longer sleeves.
It's a common fit issue with modern off the rack blazers and jackets/coats. Paradoxically, a low cut armhole means, the whole garment will move/twist (more), everytime you lift your arms.
Gussets are definitely worth considering, though. I do remember something, about this having been an feature in vintage garments as well...but where did I hear about it?
Here's is a short and to the point video, that explains how to fit a regular set-in sleeve for maximum comfort and mobility.
czcams.com/video/GqFiVww0p84/video.html
It still doesn't quite answer your question about this type of sleeve, obviously, but I think, you'll find it helpful anyway, because it explains the fundamentals of 'sleeve ergonomics' so well.
It definitely made a light bulb go on in my head, when I watched it for the first time.
Interesting! I have never run into this problem before! I usually just draw them on longer as can be seen in this video from earlier in the year here czcams.com/video/l_PhhhcLDr8/video.html
Wow., You weren't kidding! That was really easy!
Thank you once again for your clear, easy instruction. Very motivating!
Thank you Gary!
Thank you!! Can't believe how easy this looks ... now to try it myself!!
,INCRÍVEL....ESPETACULAR...MARAVILHOSA
You are a genious and explaining this stuff. Glad I tripped over your videos!
Thanks for doing these basics. Really appreciate them.
Your channel is wonderful!
Love this block. Keep fingers crossed, making first all in one block for a dress today!!!!
Thank you Ina!
Thank you!!! So helpful. I was literally trying to remember which of your videos you showed how to do this in last night.
Is an all-in-one different from a Doleman (sp?) sleeve?
The dolman, in my patterning book at least, seems to be an exaggeration of the all-in-one, so they have you lower the armhole even further and then have the whole sleeve tilt up to create even more folds under the arm almost like a "batwing" sleeve 🦇
❤❤ thank you! Appreciate how easy you make it for us new sewists!
I DID! I BLINKED!! I MISSED IT 😂 I had to rewind 🤣🤣🤣
Look out it's fast!! 😂✨
I'm shocked! Mind-blowing. Thank you very much 💓💓💓
Thanks Liv!
Thank you for sharing 🐝
Thanks for sharing ; such a practical sleeve option
And…magic 😂 thank you for sharing
Great tutorial! Thanks!
Thank you Lena!
This video was just what I was looking for! Thanks
I am 53 and a lover of vintage style. I like a slightly longer sleeve to cover the troublesome tops of my arms. Could I make the sleeve slightly longer on this block? Can you advise of any pitfalls that may encounter? Thanks for your videos, I have been sewing for years but never been able to pattern draft until your tutorials. They are some informative and real, no fuss or hype, I love them.
Thank you! I have made a long sleeve version of this sleeve before which can be seen in this video czcams.com/video/poeZoeVV51k/video.html
Fabulous! Thank you!
Thank you Jori!
I am going to make that soon
Very helpful. Instructions were clear. Thanks.
Thank you!
excellent video! My bust is too big for these to be nice most of the time, but man I would love not having to set a sleeve. It just leaves weird foldiness that I don't like.
hi how are you? nice tricks you have on your sleeves :)
Amazing! These videos are FANTASTIC…thank you for sharing your knowledge
Thank you Brenda!
I love your channel!
Thank you!
Great video!
Thank you Sherry!
This series is amazing 💕
Thank you!
oohh god this is so easy i love love love the way u explain it plz make more videos like this 3>
Thank you!
You've gotten into my brain: I'm watching this (while folding laundry) in preparation to make a modified 1-hour-dress with French darts! 'How To Make a Bodice Block' is next!
So cool! Last Wednesday I made a mock up of Style pattern 2248 out of a cotton bedsheet. All in one sleeves are a comfort revelation! You could not get me out of that old bedsheet dress 😝 Also I’m about to hem with bias tape 😎 because hell-yeah! What is the reason for the raising of the shoulder?
The 1/4" up from the shoulder is because...that's what my old pattern drafting book said to do and I still do it 😅 Probably gives a little more mobility to the sleeve I'd guess!
Extra video, yay! Looking forward to that, as always!
This is great! Again, you've unravelled the mysteries of the universe and made them accessible to us lesser mortals. One query, how do I make sure the arm scye isn't too large? I hate a gaping arm hole that shows the underarm blubber when I lift my arm.
Thank you Kaytie! I have never had a problem with this 2" lowering, but perhaps a mock up to see if you like it or a little less, this is just what I learned in my classes/textbook!
thanks!❤️
Thanks for sharing your technique, I definitely want to give this a try 😁
heck yes, thank you
So cool!
Thank you!!! 💚💚💚
I'm curious, would you still be able to sew on a separate long sleeve to this? How would you draft that? Or, more specifically, a sleeve to drop shoulder pattern, but isn't this kind of a drop shoulder. If you could find the time to show this it'd be awesome. Thanx so much for everything you do here, hugely appreciated.
Thank you! You can both attach a sleeve to this, and also just draw this pattern's sleeve longer, the later of which I show in this video here czcams.com/video/poeZoeVV51k/video.html
I almost missed this video.
I have been looking for your card block patterns. Please explain how to make them.
Thank you for this video. I have been searching for a video on this subject. Some people call this a “dropped shoulder” (at least I think that term refers to this type of top), and I couldn’t find any how to videos like this. I like this style for summer because I’m old and hate how I look in sleeveless things, but this all in one/dropped shoulder is as cool as sleeveless but covers the upper arm enough. I don’t draw very well. But I now know how to take a “regular” blouse bodice pattern and change it to an all in one bodice-sleeve. Oh- question: the vertical end-of-sleeve line- is it at a 90 degree angle to the (new) shoulder line? And to make that sleeve part longer, you just extend the shoulder line further out from the neck and then add to the curved line of the (under arm) sleeve bottom out from the side seam, to meet the vertical line? Thank you. I have a silk top that I love but don’t know what pattern I used over 8 years ago and I want to make more tops like it (I’m leery of my ability to clone it).
Question, I just tried to make this all in one from my block, my basic front block has four darts including a shoulder and armhole dart. Do I need to do anything with them or just leave them as fullness for the sleeves? I am so happy to finally get this information about the all in one. Thank you so much!!!!!!!
Interesting question! Usually when I am drafting from instructions that have a differently darted starting block than mine, some of my '40s books start with a single dart (a big waist dart) block for example, I first make my block match theirs, (so in this example case, move the side dart into the waist to get one big waist dart) so that I have the "same" style of block to start with and don't worry about anything going wonky! It is hard for me to say if this all-in-one method would work starting with more darts than two without looking at it I'm afraid! I would say try closing the shoulder and side dart into the armhole dart, or splitting the fullness of those between the waist and armhole dart before drawing on the all in one.
Thanks sooo much for sharing!!❤️
Thank you,amazing and helpful.💖
Thank you Lesley!
RIP. I need to try your method to draft my bodice block. I used the method in a book I have ("The Costume Technician's handbook") and ... let's just say that my bodice block looks all sorts of wonky. I haven't even gotten to the mock-up stage of the all in one sleeve because my bust dart is SO HUGE that moving that much fullness around leaves me with very strange shapes.
To give you an idea, before any dart manipulation, when I fold the bust dart down towards the waist, the dart triangle is about as long as the side seam from bust dart to waist. 🤦♀️
Not sure if I'll get better results with a different method of drafting, but it's worth a shot.
Just for grins (and to see what in the world I ended up with), I might just do a mock up of the monstrosity I concocted. Who knows? Maybe I did it right and my proportions are making me second guess myself. 🤷♀️
I love your videos, so to the point. I have watched this video a million times (slight exaggeration). I have made several muslins and the sleeves are too tight and the back has more fabric. If I sew the shoulder seems together the back part of the sleeve has a ripple when laying flat. Is this ok?? Thanks
Perfect!
I'm unclear as to why you put the dart into the sleeve. Can you explain please? Also would it work if you didn't?
My pattern drafting textbook explains as follows: "With the armhole absorbed into the kimono design, compensation must be made to the front bodice armhole to avoid strain when the arm is in a forward position. This is corrected by transitioning part of the dart excess to the mid-armhole before the kimono pattern is developed." (Patterndrafting for Fashion Design, Helen Joseph Armstrong.) Alas I had never read the intro to the section before, as I'm afraid I never ask why things work as long as they do 😅 The ease of movement in the garment is created by shifting that dart into the area that then becomes the sleeve essentially. It would not work without releasing some of the dart excess into the armhole because there wouldn't be enough ease to move your arms freely.
I watched it multiple times and don't quite understand what is happening. Magic, I guess?
@@happytofu5 Sometimes the answer is "because the book says so" 😅 All witches have spell books don't they? The wisdom of those who came before ✨🧵
@@TheClosetHistorian Thanks for explaining! I'm more the type of person who can't learn or remember something unless I understand it 😁 This also explains why a similar adjustment is not necessary for the back.
@@LornaKelso I had the same question. I was like "why can't you just draw a sleeve on it???" but I finally got it! When she cuts the piece and swings it down, it moves the bottom of the arm hole lower by however much space was in the dart. If you don't do that you draw the sleeve on too high and too small. Thank you for asking, I thought I was the only one who didn't get it! @TheClosetHistorian I think the textbook quote was in sewing-ese and I'm just over here with zero knowledge so my brain read it and was like "word salad" 😅 but it did finish translating when I watched the video a couple more times.
I dont know why but my mock up isn't looking right and I can't decide if I drafted it wrong from my block or that this style doesn't suit me. I am going to try a cap sleeve on my standard block since they have the same vibe and that style was also common.
The math of patterning
this does indeed look easy, but a question: would it also be possible to just angle the bust dart down a bit in order to accommodate the all-in-one sleeve? I have some 1950s patterns that have both the bust dart and the kimono sleeve, so I know it is possible, just wouldn't know how to draft it from scratch.
I would almost think it would be easier to draft the all in one just like this video, then split the waist dart in two to make a "new" side dart if you wanted one there still. The side dart is used in making the all-in-one sleeve for the sake of movement, the extra ease it creates by moving that dart into the sleeve is essential to move the arms forward freely. Also, the less darts you have to sew, the faster the project gets done anyhow 😅
I sometimes put a shirt on inside out so I can pin the wrong side of the fabric without stabbing myself when trying to adjust the fit (eg. add darts to) an existing top. The problem is that since cancer surgery, I am no longer symmetrical and turning a shirt inside out puts the right side on the left and the left side on the right compared to when you turn it right side out again. I also have some scoliosis so I am not even symmetrical from the back! I hope this isn't confusing. How do you deal with asymmetry of the 'cones' short of reconstruction surgery. I don't own a sewing form so I can't try to fit things that way.This tutorial is brilliant by the way and I am an engineer. :)
Oops! CZcams had fast forwarded me to the next video without me noticing. I meant to post this comment to the darts tutorial! Sorry about that!
Time to sort out my bodice block, huh... 😂
Love you and your videos. Question can this work in longer length sleeve..3/4 or full? Thanks 🙏
Thank you! They can yes, I show them in this video here czcams.com/video/poeZoeVV51k/video.html