Just another suggestion for the small holes that I think is less work. Drill and tap some common size (like 1/4") - insert bar with threadlock. Cut. Grind flat.
Looking good! As for mounting items on the roof I would use some mid weight channel steel and make bridges out of the channel. Weld the legs to the long sections to create the bridge and then weld the legs to the roof. Make sure the bridges are properly primed and painted before welding to the roof. Now you only need to drill and mount solar panels and auxiliary equipment to these structures with very few holes penetrating the roof and where they do penetrate the roof use sealing pass through glands to keep water out. Have you worked out a weight and balance sheet for placement of all the new furnishings and appliances? It will help keep the tail in the water and boat from listing.
Hi James when you start welding get a Ash bucket half full off water hold under where you are welding this will stop the sparks and reduce the risk of fire 🔥 hopefully this will help all the best. Terry
Jamess, have you considered using fiberglass body putty and fiberglass sheets to make patch panels and also to fill in the holes drilled into the metal roof? Using fiberglass to make patch panels would save you on unnecessary spark damage and/or inside fires caused by welding in patch panels and trying to close up the small screw holes.
just a suggestion regarding welding the big hole up if you have a fire blanket you could use it on the inside of the boat like a curtain under and a round the hole and don't forget to protect all the glass in the windows from sparks from welding and grinding as they sticks to glass like s@@t to a blanket .
At 3:00; I'm guessing you're waiting until the boat behind "Project 58" or ahead of "Sloe Patrol" move so you can Moore directly to the shore/tow path? ;-)
When you get to round eventually mounting anything externally consider using adhesive only and minimizing all penetrations and fit good quality (glued on) glands. Having used on rail mounted solar on vehicles can assure you they will not move. For most efficient solar you need to go for max voltage (connected in series and use under-panel cabling duct) so need only one gland for that. Bolts and screw fittings are not now necessary for most fittings. When you do rely on a silicon-style seal always let it cure before fully tightening secured items so the seal then forms a compressed elastic seal and not merely a gap filler. For good dissimilar metal corrosion cell isolation use cork gaskets (cut cork tiles) and compressed silicone seals and isolating teflon washers for fittings such as vents. You are correct in welding up surplus penetrations; it's the best method, quickest most durable and aesthetic remedy when done properly and now is your best time to expedite that. You might also consider widening the access hatch now also as your stair access will greatly benefit and not become a source of constant irritating injuries. The instrument panel should also be retained on an internal starboard bulkhead; but set back close to shell to maximize the stairwell access. The only external (roof mounted) gauge I would use is a centre-normal vertical needle analogue engine oil pressure gauge on centre line a few metres forward from hatch. A good gauge should not need "reading" to understand required state.
For the small holes, would tapping them, screwing in a bolt, cutting if flush to the roof and grinding it back to finish off, work? May be easier than welding?
HAPPY BIRTHDAY ROB!!! Looking good James! What I don’t understand is why they put the cooktop so far back on the counter. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Was the wooden galley backsplash the board with the gold flecked wood? 🧐 good idea using the cable to show where the holes are and how much you have to trim!!! Great work James. 😊🤗 Kathy
I enjoy all the progress you're making on your vessel and all the work that you do it's very insightful. As far as all the little holes for the solar panels that you taken off why don't you use a fiberglass body filler to do the holes up with that????
Seize the opportunity to have your solar cables running inside the boat roof as opposed to having them look untidy laying on top of the roof outside the boat. As was achieved by a fantastic solar installation done on vloger Narrowboat Adventures in a couple of episodes back. Apart from the beautiful job it is the tilting frame arrangement that can lift the panels directly into the Sun even in winter months when the Sun is low in the Sky.
Wouldn't it be easier just lay a few wet towels on the floor and tack weld a plate on the inside ,then bondo it on the outside. Less welding, less work
9:54 - At the very least, you can cut off the part with the hole and cut the remaining portion into quarters, then use/gift/sell them as cutting boards.
Bloody hell James you don't get it easy mate,😅that boat is multi layered wi stuff, even a double worktop! More stuff in there than the average house, less is more on a narrowboat surely!!🤔
Why not run a bolt into each solar panel hole then cut it off and grind it flat, then you dont need to weld or remove insulation inside ?
Hi James, just a tip from a novice welder, I would have propped up some cement sheet under the roof to stop sparks from dropping inside. 2:38 😊
As you’re working I’ve got ‘Fixing a hole’ by the Beatles running through my head. As ever, the masterclass on boat prep continues. 👍
Good luck on all the holes looks like a mammoth task tc now the oldies x🤞👍🦋
Hope you and Rob enjoy his birthday and some time off for you, James. Leigh
Happy Burfday Rob "Ole Chap" 🙂
Well done James, more hard work achieved. Happy birthday to Rob. 😊
Just another suggestion for the small holes that I think is less work. Drill and tap some common size (like 1/4") - insert bar with threadlock. Cut. Grind flat.
This is exactly my thought. They were probably tapped already for the screws, so put new screws in with threadlock, grind off the heads.
Looking good! As for mounting items on the roof I would use some mid weight channel steel and make bridges out of the channel. Weld the legs to the long sections to create the bridge and then weld the legs to the roof. Make sure the bridges are properly primed and painted before welding to the roof. Now you only need to drill and mount solar panels and auxiliary equipment to these structures with very few holes penetrating the roof and where they do penetrate the roof use sealing pass through glands to keep water out. Have you worked out a weight and balance sheet for placement of all the new furnishings and appliances? It will help keep the tail in the water and boat from listing.
Happy 🥂🥳🎉Birthday Rob 🤩🥳
Great Job James thanks for sharing 😊👋🏾
Have a great Birthday Rob
Hi James when you start welding get a Ash bucket half full off water hold under where you are welding this will stop the sparks and reduce the risk of fire 🔥 hopefully this will help all the best. Terry
Happy Birthday Rob!
I started to say poke a knitting needle through with some yarn but the cable idea worked great.
You can obtain fire blankets for welding as used in industry to protect anything and anybody below.
I was hoping you'd stick something through the holes to locate them. But I think the correct way to fix them would be with some P38 ; )
Nice progres👍
Happy birthday Rob🍻
Hi James, I am really enjoying the renovations. You can always wedge a bucket half full of water under the hole, sorts out any sparks.
Do you still have the fire blanket? Back the holes with the fire blanket, and have you on fire watch, no need to dampen the whole area. 😉
What a great idea to work out where all the holes are , brilliant thought James.
You could leave a wire in each hole or group to let SD know where each one is that he needs to weld.
What a absolute ⭐️😎👌👍
Do you not have a fire blanket James? Put it under where welding you would be able to stand under it and hold it as they weld.
Enjoy watching the progress 🙂 but cringe when you use that chisel to prize things away. Mortifying for woodworkers 🙁
To be honest the health and safety person in me was more concerned about the knives on the magnetic knife strip 😂
Jamess, have you considered using fiberglass body putty and fiberglass sheets to make patch panels and also to fill in the holes drilled into the metal roof? Using fiberglass to make patch panels would save you on unnecessary spark damage and/or inside fires caused by welding in patch panels and trying to close up the small screw holes.
just a suggestion regarding welding the big hole up if you have a fire blanket you could use it on the inside of the boat like a curtain under and a round the hole and don't forget to protect all the glass in the windows from sparks from welding and grinding as they sticks to glass like s@@t to a blanket .
Like another said, poke some wire through the holes in the roof, or use some welding rods to poke through to show you what insulation needs to go.
Some good progress 😊nice video 😊thank you
Have a great weekend.
At 3:00; I'm guessing you're waiting until the boat behind "Project 58" or ahead of "Sloe Patrol" move so you can Moore directly to the shore/tow path? ;-)
When you get to round eventually mounting anything externally consider using adhesive only and minimizing all penetrations and fit good quality (glued on) glands. Having used on rail mounted solar on vehicles can assure you they will not move. For most efficient solar you need to go for max voltage (connected in series and use under-panel cabling duct) so need only one gland for that. Bolts and screw fittings are not now necessary for most fittings. When you do rely on a silicon-style seal always let it cure before fully tightening secured items so the seal then forms a compressed elastic seal and not merely a gap filler. For good dissimilar metal corrosion cell isolation use cork gaskets (cut cork tiles) and compressed silicone seals and isolating teflon washers for fittings such as vents. You are correct in welding up surplus penetrations; it's the best method, quickest most durable and aesthetic remedy when done properly and now is your best time to expedite that. You might also consider widening the access hatch now also as your stair access will greatly benefit and not become a source of constant irritating injuries. The instrument panel should also be retained on an internal starboard bulkhead; but set back close to shell to maximize the stairwell access. The only external (roof mounted) gauge I would use is a centre-normal vertical needle analogue engine oil pressure gauge on centre line a few metres forward from hatch. A good gauge should not need "reading" to understand required state.
Sweary Dan is going to have plenty to swear about.
Hi James.
Looks like those solar brackets were sealed as badly as the chimney. ☹
Happy birthday, Rob!
For the small holes, would tapping them, screwing in a bolt, cutting if flush to the roof and grinding it back to finish off, work? May be easier than welding?
Holes are already tapped. Bolt thru with some sealant and cutoff .
HAPPY BIRTHDAY ROB!!!
Looking good James!
What I don’t understand is why they put the cooktop so far back on the counter.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Can you use some of the old solar panel holes to mount your new panels? Sods law ... They are all in the wrong place :-)
Was the wooden galley backsplash the board with the gold flecked wood? 🧐 good idea using the cable to show where the holes are and how much you have to trim!!! Great work James. 😊🤗 Kathy
I enjoy all the progress you're making on your vessel and all the work that you do it's very insightful. As far as all the little holes for the solar panels that you taken off why don't you use a fiberglass body filler to do the holes up with that????
James. Take the knife off the wall mate. Accident waiting to happen.
Love the intro haha
Loved the intro with you peering through the hole! very good idea.
Seize the opportunity to have your solar cables running inside the boat roof as opposed to having them look untidy laying on top of the roof outside the boat. As was achieved by a fantastic solar installation done on vloger Narrowboat Adventures in a couple of episodes back. Apart from the beautiful job it is the tilting frame arrangement that can lift the panels directly into the Sun even in winter months when the Sun is low in the Sky.
Wouldn't it be easier just lay a few wet towels on the floor and tack weld a plate on the inside ,then bondo it on the outside. Less welding, less work
Good video
9:54 - At the very least, you can cut off the part with the hole and cut the remaining portion into quarters, then use/gift/sell them as cutting boards.
just a suggestion ; would the worktop sections from the hob area be suitable for steps when you do your front and rear entrances ?
That is a creepy thumbnail....😨😅
Bloody hell James you don't get it easy mate,😅that boat is multi layered wi stuff, even a double worktop! More stuff in there than the average house, less is more on a narrowboat surely!!🤔
💜💙💚
👍👌❤️🇨🇦