Mini Cooper S R56 running rough... Error 2880, high pressure fuel system faults...
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- čas přidán 11. 12. 2020
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Hi
This car came to me after "new" parts we're fitted, but did not fixed the problem...
Now, was this misdiagnosed, or...
It is a long video, and yes, I could have made it 10 minutes long, but thought would be interesting for you to follow me through the hurdles and mistakes...
Follow me on this video, to find out what was the problem and how to resolve it.
Hope you enjoy the video.
Any questions or comments put them below.
Like always, thank you for watching! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
If I were the garage owner who fitted the pump I would not be a happy chappy. All that extra work and cost because the replacement was a dud. What's that old saying "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweet taste of low price is forgotten". Top diag again Luis.
Agree... Nice saying... think first time I heard it...😊
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I really look forward to seeing your videos, I especially like the fact you don’t edit it to show you just simply diagnosed it with out the odd wrong direction & I’ll explain why , we all have problem jobs and seeing videos with people just seemingly diagnosed with no fuss don’t give the viewer a real world experience.
Personally have made many mistakes over the years trying to get to the bottom of problems ( and continue to do so ) every day is a school day and we learn by mistakes ... or stepping stone to Succeed as I like to call them
Thanks for taking time to share Louis
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To be honest, I also have not much patience to edit...😋
But I totally understand and agree with you!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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Buy Cheap Buy Twice, Great diagnosis 👍
Absolutely!
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Yep you're right, I bought a used one for 160e and after 2 weeks I had to buy a brand new one witch is about 500e
Oil filled temp compensator on bottom of HPFP leaks causing start and running problems when cold . Well known problem at dealership . Many replaced !!! . Good diagnosis .
Thanks!
For watching and for your comment!
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Had the same, same problem! I didn't try to guess. I told the owner to replace the low + high pressure pump and pressure sensor. The mini had done 200k+miles. It worked after the replacement. Lucky I guess? I like what you do and the recordings. A lot learned. Am at Nairobi Kenya.
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Thanks, for watching and for your comment!
Great video. Thanks for sharing . You have the tech and the knowledge. imagine the garage . "It cant be the pump we fitted a new one"
Pretty much...😊
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Thanks a lot. You Share with us your experiences at temperatures below zero.
I hope next year u can have one close and warm place .
Take care 🙏
Thanks!
I wish that too... 😋
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Amazing journey to get this repaired!
Never seen a petrol engine with such a fuel pump mounted to the cylinder head. Very interesting.
Always remember to check basics such as oil level. I was working on some car with engine management problems and it was tricky. Eventually I decided to look at dip stick. There was hardly any oil in it and one cylinder already very low compression!
I missed if and when you checked live date for the coolant temperature, especially as it was a fault that occurred only when engine was cold.
Main handycap for you was doing this with a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. Hope Santa is going to bring one for you!
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Santa is usually not that generous... lol
But yes, I need to get one...
Thank you for watching and for your comment, appreciated!
Thanks 👍👍👍
This video saved my mini, i was about to set it on fire 😂. Bro your hard work helped me so much. My mini wasnt giving any codes but pressure was low. So i bite the bullet and changed hpf pump. Perfectly starts fine. Thanks 🙏🏼 to you
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That's great!
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Gonna set mine on fire too man same problem here😂😂
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My mini has started acting up about 2 months ago and it's off the road since while I slowly shotgun new parts into it hoping to fix the issue. The car is fine if driving with barely any throttle but if you give it any good throttle it makes a machine gun popping noise from the exhaust and it feels like misfires and power cuts.
I've replaced the hpfp twice, lpfp, coils, plugs, vanos solenoid, new maf, new map sensor, new vacuum lines, new pcv hoses, new diverter valve and a new valve cover. Throttle body is less than 6 months old, likewise the water pump, aux waterpump, waterpipe, friction wheel, thermostat, turbo and lines.
I was told the main sender could be the issue and others say timing...Im not hearing any chain rattle and the guides look fine too. I really wish there were people who diagnose like this in my area...because I am so tired of throwing money at this car at this point. Ive sank 3-4 times more than what I paid for the car over the past 2 years and I love how it drives when it wants to cooperate but Im getting to the point where Im ultimately going to end up parting it out if its not the sender....
@Raymo2u
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The timing can be easily checked by scoping it... I have videos for that, search my channel...
Everything else can be checked by looking at live data, etc...
As for the high pressure fuel pump, hope you have installed a genuine pump... as the aftermarket ones can be a hit and miss, and if you are not using a scan tool and live data, it can lead you in the wrong direction...
Diagnose, test and replace the faulty parts.
Just throwing parts with the hope that it will fix it, can become expensive very quickly... as you know...
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Great work Bro👍
Really if this type of fault is not attacked properly, there's a good chance of replacing a pile of part's while troubleshooting😉
There are many situations where we Tech's take a deep breath & say "Boy I don't have the right tool for this job" it happens😉
But you made the right call & fixed it, which is important👍
Thanks for sharing Bro & Stay Safe👍
Indeed...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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I had my fingers crossed here mate 🤞😊... always Tough when you have new faulty parts fitted top work 👍👍👍🙌
Indeed...
Thanks!
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Brilliant work Louis, thank you for all your hard work 🤗
Thanks Jay... for watching and for your comment!
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Excellent video well done. Watched as my '11 R56 had the yellow check engine / low power light on though has now disappeared the following day... The engine was running perfectly fine despite the check light so will suspect the pump being a bit worn due to millage at 98K.
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Excellent absolutly excellent video Louis . More challenge you got the video more exciting. Huge thx for you for this. I enjoyed so much it made me paralise to the screen. Pls do more like this. CZcams is flooded with simple car repair videos and thoes are boaring. This all we need good videos like this. THX thx
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More on the way...
Stay tuned...😉
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
well there you go, demonstrating once again that intuition and experience can be just as useful as testing, good call, think how much time it would have saved if you had just thought to check the oil at the start, .. something we always used to do when we had the good old carbs, .. anyway good call .. and interesting problem.
Absolutely... sometimes we regret no starting from the other end...lol
Thanks, for watching and for your comment!
Nice real world diagnostics. Thanks
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Thanks!
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Luis, thanks for the info/video enjoyable as always and u are AWESOME. cheeeeers
Thanks!
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Great diagnosis as usual 👍💪
Thanks!
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Great diag! You should get a current clamp you can hook up to your scope, so you can check the current waveform in the pressure regulator. Perhaps there was a difference between cold and hot, if it was stuck when cold or something like this.
I do have a clamp... Just never thought about that...
I believe was just the temperature and expansion of the materials, that was making the pump to pump slightly better perhaps...
Who knows...🤷♂️
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
great video enjoy it watch it two time , like the fact you keep the mistakes i gain from them! question could fuel trim have help?
Yes and no...
Due to the low fuel pressure the trims would most likely be a bit all over the place...
Would however show something wrong with the mixture...😊
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
The reason the pump start to work when the engine is warm is because the pump is filled with its own oil. That why there is a membrane on the bottom. You can measure the dept of the membrane with a vernier gauge. If its deaper than 26mm the pump lost to much oil and should be replaced. You can find a document about this in ista. Bmw/mini even have a special tool for measuring the dept with the pump still mounted on the engine.
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Mine measures about 27mm but seem to be getting good pressure to fuel rail on live data, having issues with the car hesitating and idling slightly rough, kinda seemed like a vacuum leak but smoke tested and no leaks.. don’t know if I should still suspect the pump or not
Have you scanned the car?
@@LMAutoRepairs hi, yeah I’ve scanned it but it’s not bringing up any fault codes unfortunately and no EML, the car is a Peugeot 207 GTI 175bhp but is the same engine as the Mini Cooper S N14
Live data... check live data...
Good job Luis as always, if u did check the oil level earlyer u should find also earlyer the reason of this trouble, whatever we are all learning and learning every day, thanks Luis for all ur videos. ur Algerian follower was here :-)
That's correct...
But the fact that the car just had a new timing chain, oil change, and the "pump", it never lead me to check it...🤷♂️
Well, got there in the end...😋
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs Another question Luis, do u have any idea why the faulty fuel pump work fine when the car is worm?
@@KaKi_AutoDiag
Has I have already answered on other comments... the only thing I can think about, is that the temperature and expansion of materials, would seal something or whatever... I never opened the old pump... so, can't really tell...
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@@LMAutoRepairs What made me wonder even more is, why it runs good even when cold when you disconect that pressure regulator (fuel metering valve). Obviouslly car run with default values at that point, and everything is good. Would be nice to see duty cicle for the regulator once the connector is off.
I kinda did show... the ecu just stops cycling the valve once fails to achieve the correct pressure... it is on the video...
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for another great video!!!
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Too good to see sm challenging videos bro ... Like u does .. and likes ur words that ohh dear .. 😂
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Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Amazing work
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Thanks!
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Having a similar issue, not as bad of a misfire on mine, when cold starting and then stalls, live data shows actual - 3.76 MPa and Set - 5.00 MPa. After a help with the throttle and running, at idle actual fluctuates between 4.48 & 5.18 MPa, revs up ok but misfires at idle, No engine lights but fault codes are 2C9E, 2D52, 2DCD, 2A92 & 2746. Just had walnut blasting done aswell to see if that was the problem
Another great video 👍
Thanks!
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Where did the "working" replacement high pressure fuel come from and how much did it cost? Thanks
Thank you for the grait working very helpfull
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Long video but very helpfull
Thanks!
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This was excellent and worrying because we can't trust replacement parts. Everything seems to be made in China these days. A massive country. I'm surprised that there aren't quality control procedures. I'd have changed the sensor (wrongly) because I'd have thought it was the only thing getting warm. Changing the pump twice would have defeated me. Well done.
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Thanks, for watching and for your comment, appreciated!
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Very nice! Cheers mate
No worries...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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Another good one!
Thanks!
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I’ve lost count of how many of the pumps I’ve fitted and the weird ways they can play up, went through the pain of buying what turned out to be poor quality new parts as well, they change slightly around 2010 on the n18 engine but are still rubbish I’ve done 7 in the last 3 months ish and the only place I buy now that I’ve never had an issue with is Neo brothers
Yes... they are problematic...
Thank you for watching!
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amigo soy de chile, al final fue la bomba de alta presion (pump hpfp) ?? la cambiaste dos veces ?? tengo el mismo problema y ya compre una bomba hpfp y sigue con el mismo fallo 2880 y los parametros del escaner son los mismos cuando te fallaba
In France we call it the 1.6 thp motor, there are a always a problem with the fuel pump or the chain tensioner be careful with that to there is 3version of the chain tensioner if it's you're car put the V3 on it's take about 4bolts 30min 50pnd of torque for the chain tensioner and that's it do it before is to late
As I explained in the video, the had all that just weeks before...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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Nice one buddy
Thanks!
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Hi. Can you explain on n18 engine what is fuel nominal pressure value and fuel rail pressure PID difference or relation and how it works? Thank you
Thank you! I've had the same exact problem and two aftermarket reman pumps were both not working and had driven me nuts. Mini/Bmw also threw the kitchen sink at this car and could not fix it either. About 4k in it now
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Hope you get it sorted...
Thank you for watching!
i'm reporting this Video, for discrimination against Crisps! Thansk for the video :))
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Thank you for watching!
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Nice one
Thanks!
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Thanks bro i appreciate u and i need help
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Thank you for watching!
Good one
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I had a similar problem to this on my 2011 Cooper S. It wasn't as bad as this and would run rough on cold startup and then trigger the engine light. I found someone on eBay who refurbishes the pumps so I sent it to him and fingers crossed it has been great since. He said the Chinese ones sold on eBay are just old pumps taken from scrapped cars which are cleaned and sold as new. A new genuine pump is £900+ so you can see why people buy the cheap ones.
Yes... they are expensive new...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Hi who refurbed it for you?
Great video once again !
I now you now tho i cant stress anough how much damage you can do running an engine with fuel contaminated oil ... The oil almost loses all its lubrication effects because of the petrol mixed in ... Even running it at idle for short periods is going to wear out all bearing and certainly the pistonsidewalls and pistonrings ...
I know... the good point was that the oil was new... 😋
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
I lol'd at 'it runs like a bag of crisps'
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Hi mate, excellent video. Quick question, does ista come with integrated bmw/mini wiring diagrams? Or is that another software you are using
Comes with everything...
At least, it showed as it does on BMW when I used it on Mini...
Thank you for watching!
@@LMAutoRepairs thank you for getting back to me! Random question lol, I remember in one of your videos you said you work nightshift.
You don’t work on the railways by any chance do you? Your face looks familiar
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No... I don't...
You might have seen me on CZcams...
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Hey man i have a question I have a 2014 Honda civic si sedan im going 10mph and my vsa light turns on and it sounds weird
Scan the car, check live data and go from there... most likely an erratic reading from one of the speed sensors... but is just a guess...
Thank you for watching!
hi louis, great work you are doing i see most of your videos, which have helped me alot.... i have a r56 n18 engine.. with problems on the quantity valve... with the conector out i have 12v on orange wire and 0v on the white wire.... if i plug it in and start the car... i have permanent 12v on both wires... you think it may be the ecu??? thanks for the help
fuel pump presure is ok checked with insta... but the valve is always on 0% it will not work
Hi
Have you load tested the wires?
Have you scoped the signal?
Is the ecu actually trying to pulse the valve?
What pressure are you getting?
You need to test more things before blame the ecu...
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Im having the same problem. Whats the difference from fuel pump assembly and a high pressure fuel pump? And i keep getting that same beep as youre driving. 2010 mini s clubman doing same exact thing.
The fuel pump is the one in the fuel tank...
The high pressure fuel pump, as the name indicates, is the pump that increases the fuel pressure to higher values... in this case, the problematic one...☺️
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Mine reads O mpa while on warmed up bogging and throws half full check engine light 😭
I am from Chile that is why I do not understand the language so much, in the end was the high pressure pump defective? did you change it twice? thanks for the video friend !!!!! regards!
I did not changed it twice...
Someone changed it first... but the "new" one that was fitted was also bad...
So, I had to replace it again...
That is what happens when you get cheap parts...
Yes, was the high pressure pump...
Thank you for watching!
the main issue is just too expensive original parts and probably expensive repair labor costs that make poor quality cheap parts attractive to people. Also i get it how it can lead down the rabbit hole its not easy to think of sanity checks, but in this case verifying that the original pump starts to work when warmed up would have helped a lot.
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Indeed!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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do you have manual for this car R56 ... hope to get it by email
hi can you tell me where u got your ista+ from, cheers
Can't remember now...
Got it somewhere from "Google"...😋
Thank you for watching!
I changed the hpfp and it starts ups just fine again. But the check enigne light still comes on and the is fuel slightly dripping down the high pressure line even i tightened it correctly. Changed the line 6 months ago. Could this be the issue and I have to buy a new one again?
Possibly... what are the codes stored?
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@@LMAutoRepairs Bought a new line and it isn‘t dripping any more but Check engine light still comming up but only after full throttle.
@@LMAutoRepairs Also had it at the Bmw workshop before and they checked everything but couldn‘t find anything then the hpfp. Still cc-id 029
Check live data at full throttle, perhaps the pump is not building or maintaining the pressure...
Are they branded a genuine high pressure pump like Siemens/bosch ?
This one if I recall correctly, was just a knock of aftermarket...
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How can tell a genuine one?
Running like a bag of....crisps😂😂😂
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Did not wanted to be rude...
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I though it was a bag of spanner’s? 🤔
Eh my friend I got a question how many volts should I see on DVM when I check camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor
If a 3 wire, a ground, and voltage (usually 5 volts)... the signal you can't really measure it with a multimeter... if is working OK, with the engine running, you might see 5 volts...
But for that you need a scope...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
2 wire 345 ohm's
@@cgmartgarcia7792
If is a 2 wire, then that generates an AC signal...
Have a look here... Will give you a better idea...
dannysengineportal.com/crankshaft-camshaft-position-sensor-testing-done-the-easy-way/
Eh body I need you help I got mazda mpv 2005 with P0403 EGR is electronic I replaced EGR I still got P0403 I replaced PCM and I still got PO403 don't know what to do
Start by diagnose before throwing parts at it...
Wiring?
Have you checked wiring?
Can you actuate the egr?
Have you checked the intake for carbon build up?
The P0403 is a generic code... live data can give you more information...
Thank you for watching!
I checked EGR ohm's 22 ohm's old and new one I wires continuity everything is good
Question! I know this video is old but I have the same car with a similar issue. My fuel quantity control valve is always at 0%…. You said you checked for 12v under load, do you mean car on or just battery on? I don’t see 12v at all when I put a meter on it, but I don’t have a fancy pulse meter like that. I’ve been leaning towards a faulty ecu, I have continuity between the plug and ecu but no voltage. This is the only video I’ve seen with a similar description, figured It would be worth a shot to ask. Thanks!
The PWM signal from the ecu is too quick for a multimeter...
But again, and as per the video, if the ecu fails to build the pressure due to a faulty pump, will stop modulating the valve... so no voltage...
The scope will be able to show you right after start the engine, if the ecu is attempting to regulate the pressure...
Hope that helps...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Ok, gotya… my problem is I have too much pressure, not too little. Seems like nothing is being regulated and car is at maximum fuel pressure. I appreciate your response, thank you!!
Ah...
You never mentioned before that your issue was too much pressure...
Anyway, what is the pressure readings with the engine off?
Thinking about the possibility of the pressure sensor reading wrong...
What codes do you have on the ecu?
@@LMAutoRepairs with the car on at idle I have 10,000 kpa and only goes up if I drive it. Never thought to check pressure with it off. I’m no mechanic but it’s now on its 8th mechanic that cannot figure out the issue. I’ve replaced the hpfp and fuel rail sensor. Car chugs and stutters and has no power ltft and stuff at -25 all the time. And fuel quantity control v at 0%… also no codes no matter how hard I try to get one to come up.
What is the background of the car?
Have you bought it like that?
Boos I'm waiting ur I'm 608 diagnosis and key progarming video please make one video
No worries...
I done a few keys already, but haven't record any... Will do soon...
Thank you for watching!
I have bought from NEO Bros. They specialize in Mini parts. Avoid China parts for high pressure fuel systems. Great I investigation though and what is the software on the lap top you are using? Thanks
BMW ISTA...
Thank you for watching and for your comment, appreciated!
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What caused the 25 amp fuse to blow ?
That's a good question...
It could have been because of the extra load while the ecu was trying to achieve the pressure... or a poor quality fuse...
As I said in the video, I really don't know why it happened, and surely enough, it did not happened again...🤷♂️
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs I was sure it was a short to ground on the power side of the high pressure pump and a bad pressure sensor. just goes to show new does not mean good. thanks for sharing bud.
Have you ever had a problem with the Autel resetting adaptations on a BMW?
Not that I remember...
What exactly issues are you referring to?
Thank you for watching!
@@LMAutoRepairs Hi, I was just wondering, I use an autel and a launch, they both seem to have a slight difference in the procedure to reset adaptations, I am not entirely convinced either are working in my case, I have just got Ista to try, see if that helps me. Thanks Jonathan
I never used launch...
But never had issues with Autel MS908P....
@@LMAutoRepairs Thanks, I have the maxicom 908, maybe I am not using the right pid, on the procedure there is no key on key off cycle, I will try Ista and see,thanks again Jonathan
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P3091, 2880
Should I change HPFP ?!
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How I am supposed to know?
Test everything, if everything else checks OK, then there is a very good possibility that the pump is at fault...
Thank you for watching!
Hi Luis, where abouts are you located? My in laws are having issues with their volvo V40. it keeps giving error that start button malfunctioned. However it does start sometimes. We have checked the ecu, ecm and the wiring and it seems all good, no corrosion and cant work out what might be causing it. If possible and youre not too far, maybe you could take a look? Will pay for the work.
Hi
Have you had the car scanned, and live data checked?
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs we did. With vida it says start button circuit B and C stuck Signal low. With another scanner that Halfords used it showed lost communication with immobiliser unit.
@@soldiers303
I would check the button...
I believe they have 2 circuits inside, just like the electric hand brake ones... and if both fail to make contact at the same time, they can trigger faults...
But you should be able to see that on live data...
@@LMAutoRepairs thanks I'll try that. Didn't think of checking live data. We did get a replacement button though but it came together with reader and I think it has to be programmed.
@@soldiers303
Don't think it does...
That should be just a reader... reads the key and sends the data to the immo module...
But I might be wrong...
Worth a try...😉
hi there great video as usual where can i get ista?
Many places...
A Google search and you will find it...
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Where to find mini Cooper Dtc codes list and references .. like p0203 ..
P codes are generic codes...
They are pretty much the same to any car...
Thank you for watching!
@@LMAutoRepairs I could not find the code u did in this video ..2880...
@@adnabandasha3201
Those are specific bmw codes... not the generic P codes...
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I was screeming bias voltage,
Thanks!
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So the problem was the pomp ?
As per the video... yes.
Thank you for watching!
Code 2C01……2012 mini cooper countryman
This mpv 2005 when reach 200f start loss power
200f?
The crank or camshaft sensors don't usually give those symptoms...
They usually prevent the engine from start, or hard to start... if is failing like for example due to temperature, can stall the engine while driving... loose power, is usually not the case...
Those hp fuel pumps seem to have a lot of problems on the n14 engines. Too bad that they don't have rebuild kits for them as they do for the VW engines. Here is one being rebuilt czcams.com/video/gGO5jYdmzXY/video.html
True...
This pumps all work in the same principle...
I repaired the vauxhall ones in past...
Yes, repair kits would be great!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Hello, Good work 😊😊😊😁, if you don't mind i need wiring diagram of renault scenic 2000 1.9 dci of mass air flow 😊😊 thanks
Engine code?
@@LMAutoRepairs the engine code is F9Q
Looks like...
Pin 1 to ecu B28
Pin 2 to ecu C25
Pin 3 to ecu B19
Pin 4 to Main relay (12v ignition on)
Pin 5 to ecu B44
Pin 6 to Ground
@@LMAutoRepairs thank you very much 😁😁 i will not forget this, 😄😄
@@LMAutoRepairs thank you very much 😁😁 i will not forget this, 😄😄
Ahhh the old Chinese proverb when buying Chinese stuff goes something like “only fool buy from China and expect it to work”
I remember swapping my spark plugs for a new set only for my misfire still to be there, ye you guessed it one of the new plugs was faulty. 😤😤😤 time consuming and annoying.
Indeed it is annoying!...
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STOP buying sensors and such from euro car parts. 👍
Is not me...
LoL
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We’re the fuel trims bad running rich
Don't think I have checked them... I focused of the fuel pressure regulation... as would most likely affect the trims anyway...
Thank you for watching!
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@@LMAutoRepairs Hello Lm Repairs
I am a huge fan of your work all the way from South Africa
I am 18 years old and I am planning to go into the field of auto electrical?
Could you inspire me and let me know what you studied and how did you get to where you are now...
And what model of diagnostic tool do you use?
@@trevinopadayachee8570
Hi
That's great, hope you succeed!
I never studied anything related with electrics or cars... I learn as I go along really...
The scanner I use, is the Autel, Maxisys MS908P
🇨🇳 China pump 😂😂
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