Glocked Brass, Bulged Cases and how to fix it
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Glock Glocked Brass, Bulged Cases and how to fix it using the Lee Bulge Buster. This is a common issue when shooting Glock's but you can fix this using the Lee Bulge Buster.
NOTE- If you are shooting 9mm Luger you'll need to use the Makarov to do it.
Here is a link to the standard version covering most popular pistols. www.amazon.com...
For 9mm Luger, use the Makarav Crimp die with the internals removed. Here's a link for that. www.amazon.com...
Again, thanks for watching and please share this video.
Great stuff. I bought 5000 pieces of used brass. I’ve had many failure to feed. And many of them have been because of the bulge. Great video keep up the good work.
Mr. Vaughn,
I want to thank you for the educational video on bulge brass and how to overcome it. I like you shoot in competitions. I thought it would be more cost-effective if I reloaded 9mm ammunition. Just a little preface, I usually reload .308 on a single stage press. However, I decided to step up my game and purchase a Hornady Lock and Load Ammo Plant with the case feeder and bullet feeder. Go Big or Go Home! Right! I know I probably should have gone with a Dillion instead, but at the time I could not afford a Dillion. Anyway, I purchased 9mm mixed brass from an online company and used Blue Bullets, 124g. I was using RCBS resizing die, and the rest where Hornaday dies, including the taper/crimp die. Once I got my powder measurement dialed in, everything seemed to be working correctly. I pumped out over a thousand rounds. Everything looked great until I put them in the Hundo case gauge, from Ben Stoeger Pro Shop. By the way, one of the best case gauges I've ever used. Anyway, only 40% would not seat properly in the case gauge. I pulled the bad ones out, and that is when I notice the bulge around the base of the brass. I could not figure out what was going on. Of course, I went to CZcams and did my research, and thank goodness your video came up first. I followed your instructions about purchasing the Lee Makarov 9mm die, along with the bulge buster. It seems to work and took out some of the bulge on the brass, but not all it. However, it still would not seat fully in the case gauge. So I thought, why not use a Lee carbide 9mm resizing die, minus the depriming pin. After getting it set up, with the Lee carbide 9mm resizing die, without the depriming pin. I ran a couple of my loaded rounds through. Lo and behold, it worked! I was overly excited that I would not have to pull ever bullet. I went to check the bullet retention it moved. Unfortunately, in resizing the brass, the case mouth loosens around the bullet. Ughhhhhhh! I sat back for a minute and thought to myself how to fix this problem. I then inserted my Hornady Taper/Crimp die and ran a newly resized loaded 9mm back through. Voila! It worked. I checked all the measurements, and everything is within spec. So, I want to thank you for leading me down this path of enlightenment. I know, pretty long story for saying thank you and great informational video. Thanks for your help.
I had trouble with range brass and couldn't figure out why until a friend told me about the Glock barrel chamber. I finally started using a Lee U Die (undersize) and haven't had any trouble since. You probably are aware, some may not be, you can always tell a round fired from a Glock by the distinctive firing pin strike too.
I enjoy your videos, very informative.
Terry Stover glad you enjoyed the videos. Yep, you can always spot a glocked brass..!
I've been having this exact issue where reloaded 9mm Luger won't go into battery and this makes total sense, although I thought .391 was the base diameter from the factory. I'll be checking all mine now!
If you full length size the brass first its much easier to bulge bust and less stress on you and the press. I mentioned this to LEE and they agreed that was the way to do it. They also told me they didn't support bulge busting 9mm with a MAK die. I've done about 5k 9mm without an issue FL sizing first. I use an APP for FL sizing and bulge bust 9mm, 40sw, 45 acp and 223. Really speeds up the process.
I LOVE your hoodie.......lol. Thanks btw, I bought the Lee and the Makarov dies and it solved the issues
Sir. Would pls... send the exact name of bulge buster kit? Both 9mm luger n 9mm makarov pls.....
Good video!! Answered a question I had about my reloading 9mm! Had a case with a bulge and wasn’t sure what the dangers were, but you explained it “to the point”!! Wish all vids were like this!Thanks, Joe
Definitely bulge buster NOT recommended for 9mm, period. Any bulged ammo from any glock 9mm should not be reused if run thru factory barrel. It's because it has a unsupported barrel
Very informative and helpful......thank you. I shoot a lot of 9mm, most it from Glocks, and I have seen many bulges and smiles while processing my brass. After watching your video I plan to get a bulge buster and add an additional step to my brass preparation. Also,it sure sounded to me like you nailed the type/name of the Glock barrel rifling.
Good video. My advice to all: reload for aftermarket barrels with brass that has not been fired in factory barrels and use Glock barrels with factory defense ammo only and don't reload those.
Except for 1911's the very first semi-auto I purchased was a CZ variant which has a fully supported chamber that has a slightly larger chamber. To make it a highly reliable pistol. The Glock chamber is not slightly larger to make it more reliable it is considerably larger. Which is why it has an issue in this regard. Your pictures by fully reforming the case. They recognized this a couple of decades ago when some of the early 40 Smith cartridges were made with out enough interior dimension to safely be reloaded and in some cases were blowing up Glocks in brand new ammo. I will refrain from naming the mo. Because they have since been better at their powder charges and the issue of the interior case Dimensions has been corrected.
The problem exists that these excessive chamber dimensions are unnecessary for a firearm to function in a highly reliable fashion. The proof exists in the fact that there are highly reliable firearms that have existed for decades longer than the Glock which also still enjoy a well-deserved reputation for being exceedingly reliable. Just replacing the barrel on a Glock with a barrel with a much spider chamber, those still militarily loose enough to be reliable is proof of concept. The problem isn't in reloading the ammo the problem is is getting rid of the original Glock chamber.
I just got a Glock 30s in 45 acp. I will be reloading for it soon. Ty for the info
I have a glock 21 and have been reloading for it for a year. I have not seen 1 budlged case and the all have chambered in my other guns fine.
For low pressure rounds I do not think this will be an issue.
Not for 9mm yes
Good Video!! Just a FYI @ 3:10 you mention your caliper is a "Dial Caliper" but sorry that's a digital caliper. A dial caliper has a dial, a vernier caliper doesn't have either. Sorry, the machinist in me. Another way to fix this is to use the old non-carbide steel dies that size down to the shell and require sizing lube. I wrote to RCBS and Lee and they both never wrote me back. Not a good option when they want to sell carbide dies for progressive presses.
I only shoot 9mm and pick up mixed range brass. Since 9mm casing has a slight tapered to it Lee doesn't recommend or sell a bulge buster kit for 9mm. It's best to use their undersize die in which I do. I case check every round and if it doesn't pass I'll throw it away.
Thank you for the video sir, and the detailed explanation.
I think I’ll just buy a barrel with a fully supported chamber instead of creating an extra step in my reloading process
Sammi specs for 9mm chamber is .3913 +.004 and case is .3910 -.007 so per Sammi that case is within specs! I agree the bulge is a problem but by your measurements it should chamber or your chamber is out of spec. I own a ammo manufacturing company. And I would use pins to check my chamber and make sure it's in spec have
Several years ago I had some concerns about the Hornady resizing dies and I contacted the company and I was informed that they only make what other class as "Small Base Dies" Now, most of my dies are RCBS but I do have a couple sets of the Hornady and LEE's.
Now, I know .25acp is not in class that being discussed here but its a good example of what I'm talking about.
If I size them with the Hornady dies and seat a bullet into the case I get a lot more noticeable bullet bulge, it works but it looks like crap. Well, I started looking around for some RCBS dies and I couldn't find any without a high price Special Ordering, so I bought a set of Lee Dies, well the problem I have with them is that on some cases after sizing I had lose bullets, so the LEE die didn't size the case down far enough. All that to say this, if Hornady dies are small base sizing would that take care of the Glock bulge?
And is it possible that some of the resizing problems with these Glock Bulge's could be a bigger problem with reloaders using LEE sizing dies? I'm getting the idea that between LEE, RCBS, and Hornady in their base sizing that RCBS is right in the middle.
So, going back to my 25 ACP sizing issue, as a resolve what I do is I full length resize with the Lee die, then I go back and only neck size with the Hornady die just beyond the seating depth of the bullet (maybe .030") I finish the rest of the loading process with the LEE dies, I really like the short stem in their expander die.
I will give the lee bulge buster kit 5 stars. I've run at least 2,000 rounds through mine including 380, 9mm and 40 S+W. Most calibers use the Lee carbide final crimp die, but the 9mm Luger needs to use the 9mm Makarov final crimp die.
Hi
Thanks for your advises
On Lee Bulge kit, I used to resize complete ammo after reloading,
It's safe, and more easy,
And ammo are surely resize at SAAMI specifications sizes after all the reloading process on the progressive press.
So you don't have any ammo doubt when competitions starts.
Excellent, Thanks! Just received mine, time to go use it!
Good video, and explanation....will share this with friends !
I really appreciated your instruction on Glocks and bulges. I had heard this was a characteristic of Glock factory barrels, but I did not understand why.
It was recommended to me that I get a 9mm sizing die that .003 smaller than the norm; they call it a reducer die, I think. I actually do most of my reloadign with a Dillon progressive press, but I have established the habit of running ALL my once (or more) fired 9mm cases through this die, mounted in a RCBS Partner Press. It's another step, but it's really worth it to me. I use a case gage on every round as I reload, and now the gage rarely refuses a round.
Christopher McCarnan k
Great Video Sir! This was just what I was looking for. I've wondered if there was a way and I've been told many times NO and what do you know they were wrong again. hahaha. I've been reloading SW 40 for 6 years and always run my brass through the Lee Belly Bulge never a bad round.
I bought the lee App press. Man, I was bulge busting with speed. For $75. the press rocks. Yes still need the bulge busting die. I was letting them fall into a large bucket. I use the lee collator. fill up a long pex tube I made to length. Fill tube. Pull collator off. put fingers on each end. flip tube over to get shells aiming the correct direction. Put the tube in feeder and boom I am bulge busting fast and easy. remember lube your cases. It makes them pass through the die so much easer.
Mighty helpful video. Thank you !!!
Using a Makarov die on bulged 9mm cases will eventually break the internal carbide ring. That's why Lee no longer recommends pushing 9mm cases through a Makarov die. When you crack the carbide ring (and you will), Lee will only replace it once.
To remove the bulge from 9mm, the best method is to roll size.
i spoke to lee today and now they will not cover any 9 mm die used in bulge busting as it destroys the carbide lining . I'm surprised they don't just make a solid carbide tool to bust the bulge we all have a problem with it
I learned something at 3:20 thank you.
Question - Reloading and then running a "Glocked case" appears to me to be able to do the 5-7 times over an average brasses life expectancy, thus very little issues with the brass attributed to bulge. The problem seems to me to try to run this brass in a non Glock firearm as it may not chamber well. Thoughts?
.391" is the proper spec for 9mm Luger cases and should chamber in your firearm just fine so long as your case length and case mouth are also sized within spec.
Just found this out, when I started shooting a conversion barrel from Stormlake, making a 40C into a 9C, I had been shooting nothing but factory ammo in these barrels , & started to handload again due to ammo shortage and found all my handloads do not cycle in these barrels, (I have Two slides), so I am struggling to shoot my 40C/9C. But funny thing, the handloads run great in the M&P 9L 2.0, go figure. All my brass was previously shot in Glocks.
Great video.
The Lee website states the Bulge Buster “ Will only work with 380, 10mm, 40 S&W, and 45s”. But you said you are using it with a 9mm.
Barbara Riley I am and still do, since making this video Lee now says not to use it for the 9mm so try at your own risk, but I’m still doing it and I’ve never had an issue.
So, after watching your video, I went right to the Lee Precision site. The bulge buster die is NOT for 9mm. In fact, Lee warns to not “fix” Glock fired bulges, as the bulge actually thins the case wall and “fixing” it can result in ruptures. M just going by what is on the Lee page. I recently experienced the Glock bulge and it is frustrating. You might want to check with Lee in regards t this video. Thank you.
Thanks for taking the time to make this! Questions, would not buying a after market barrel stop this in the first place! I used a case gauge to verify fit after reloading. Another YT has this process with 9mm using a makarov die!
....or you could size the brass old school by using a steel die (yes you'll have to use sizing lube). A steel die sizes further down toward the base and maintains the proper taper profile.
That may be why some are having issues and some not....different dies doing the same job with different results.
Excellent informative!! 👍
On their product description, Lee now says “not for 9mm” (because 9mm para cases are “tapered not straight wall” . Why have they changed their tune?
is this still an issue? I have owned 6 glocks, all 9 mm and all gen three or newer and never experienced the dreaded bulge. Have loaded at least 100K 9 mm without an issue. WAs told this was an old issue with earlier gen models and normally 40cal only.
Ok, I had definitely heard of the bulge on range .40 S&W glock brass and the Redding and Lee bulge busters. It seems maybe more common with the .40. But I hadn’t heard as much about it with the 9mm. So why wouldn’t just using my resizing die fix the issue? I thought that was the whole idea? Or does the Glock barrel bulge it more than the resizing die can handle? Thanks for the look at this Lee tool.
Super helpful! Thank you!
I looked it up on Amazon and they said the 9mm is a tapered case and they don't make a adapter. That it is not for 9mm.
Would a lee factory crimp die help remove case bulge since it includes a carbide sizing ring in the die’s construction? I can say I’ve never had any issue with any cartridge that has been ran through the lee factory crimp die.
That IS the bulge buster. You remove the crimp collar, and use the push through piece and plastic container.
Its by design for reliability and efficiency Glock inherent Go Bang. So their tolerance slightly loose to feed all ammo in almost all condition. Naturally an issues "problem" for reloaders
You should mention that after resizing 9mm Luger cases through regular dies, they will become shorter than the specified .749" minimum length., are you seeing that after running the cases through your Lee Dies? I have a Lee die set for the 9mm but it's not the Bulge Buster, which I use to reload 9mm cases fired through my Ruger P-89 9mm and I often find that a lot of the cases measure between .744" and .747" after resizing them, which I feel a bit uncomfortable reloading.
When using a Makarav die, is it the factory crimp die? Also can you use it on a loaded cartridge? If so what do you remove on the die? Thanks
The link you have from Amazon has in the description that 9mm won't work with this. Can you explain? Thanks
For 9m Glock fired cases. What dia and adapters do I need to remove the bulge? I would like it in Lee if possible. I look on the midway and they say lee bulge buster won't work on 9mm. Help, please.
What he is using is for a 9mm Makorav
@@basrutten641 Yes I own two of them now. 1 for backup
So which Makarov die is this? A resizing die. or a crimping die? Seating die?
If you shoot a lot and use range brass for practice, buy one of the roll sizers on the market. No worries about the Glock or 9mm major bulge!
I'm looking at getting one for testing and showing on the channel. Hope to get one in my hands and see how I like it.
Vaughn Precision, pricey, but the Rollsizer from Australia is an awesome unit. I bought the 12 volt powered one and I have yet to have a failure to chamber.
I need to do this with 10mm cases. What die do you recommend??
I have the bulge buster kit for 40 S&W . It uses the Lee factory crimping die fo 40 S&W. I am assuming that you are using the factory crimping die for 9 mm, right ? Thanks
Do you ever see thinning where the case is reformed?
So I just size my cases in the 9mm die then through the 9mm Makarov carbide die without the carbide sleeve. All the cases are .388 all the way down to the rim aswell
is it wise to bulge bust all of my 9mm? Due to the tapered case
Great video and topic.
I thought the Lee 9mm Luger factory crimp die removed brass bulge. What is the purpose of using 9mm Makarov ?
My guess, it's because the mak base is 0.02mm bigger than luger. I've tried this on a lee die for luger and had to use an incredible amount of force. The tapered case doesn't want to pass through. If you bought a 3 die kit, don't buy a factory crimp just for bulge busting. At least not a luger.
Don't know if my comment is going through. But would like to get more info on the die set of a part number. Thanks
Not sure if you're still looking but there are amazon links in the comments at the top of the video. In case you can't see those (mobile?) here are the 2:
Lee Precision Model LP90487 Bulge Buster Kit
Lee Precision 90807, Carbide Factory Crimp Die, 9x18mm (9mm Makarov)
Apparently the 2nd one is required for 9mm Luger.
Right on now I know 👍🏽
Hello, I have owned my G17 for just over 3 years; I'd like to get into reloading as a hobby. Would you suggest just buying a Lone Wolf barrel (and not dealing with the bulge issue [as it seems unsafe])? And what is your opinion of the least expensive way to get into reloading multiple caliber rounds (pistol
ifle)?
Great video and thank you!!!!
Robert Wagner email me at vaughnprecision@gmail.com and I’ll fill you in on some reloading things
How is it able to remove the bulge when the rim of a 9mm is bigger in Diameter the the case is? What is the part number on the die you are using? Thanks.
You are measuring the bulge in the case. The rim diameter will not change. So just keep the rim out of the way. Since a 9mm has a base of 0.394 and a major brass diameter of 0.391 they must be swaging the rim diameter smaller 0.003. He was using a MAK die . The MAK rim and case are both 0.392. So his rim is only 0.002 small and his case is 0.001 large. Probably both well within production limits.
Lone Wolf barrels huh?
Can you just use the crimp die without the other
Very interesting! Can you take the buldge out using a regular 9mm resizing die?
No, not all the way, because a standard resizing die doesn't size all the way down to the case head, but you should still run it through a resizer after.
Started loading not long ago , great info , once you debulge do you run the reseize /deprime die after as per normal? I assume this first step is a precaution as you shoot Glock , you you do this if you shot other pistols then Glock
Just an FYI, Lee doesn’t recommend doing this however I still do it with no issues. What I’ve been doing over the past several years now is run an aftermarket barrel, these don’t bulge the cases like a Glock barrel does. But yes, once I remove the bulge it’s the standard steps to reloading
Where did you get the 9mm bulge buster? I can't find one for 9mm
The Lee Bulge Buster Kit do not come with any die that’s why you can’t find one for 9mm.
Just looked on Midway website has a note not to use on 9mm for some reason.
This works fantastic,.....many don't know about using the Mac die for the 9mm !uger.I guess !ee no longer recommends this as the die/carbide part may crack but how many thousands of brass will get resized before or if the carbide ring cracks? I would just buy a new one for 12-13 bucks and continue on.My ammo for 9mm and 40 S & W is 100 percent functioning when using these dies.
johnwilliams40 thanks ..!! Was not aware of the cracking dies. Thanks for the info..!
Lee could fix this by just making an all steel die, and then making lubing of the brass mandatory for use. No more carbide die ring breaking and allowing us to get rid of the bulge.
Do you use the same press to reload or a different one?
Looking at his room, probably has a progressive press out of frame somewhere.
When de-bulging can you use your current non Lee die such as RCBS or Dillon?
I am looking into reloading 9mm exclusively shot from a G19 for this G19. Is this possible and safe?
Yes, the reloads will be fine as long as your loading correctly
My 2 cents: NO, IT'S NOT REALLY SAFE. Once that brass has been stressed and bulged you can't re- strengthen it in that weak area. It will always be weak in that spot. Yes, you can shrink it back to the correct size BUT, it's still weak in the previously bulged area. If you run it again and that weak area lines up at the 6 o'clock position in the chamber you have just increased the odds of a blow out KABOOM!! Glocks have a bit of unsupported chamber area at the 6 o'clock chamber position, right at the feed ramp. This is why you don't want to press your luck. Brass is fairly cheap, and in these guns it's a good idea.
so i have a question. are you losing the tapered shape of the 9mm when sending it thru the makrov die?
Nope, the taper is the same
@@vaughnprecision cool thanks bro. ill have to buy one. but it seems most are sold out.
When dealing with Lee, I find that if you don't have their part number and order by name...there is no telling what you get. Would you have the part number for that die? And is it a brass sizing die or a bullet sizing die for the Makorov
Not off the top of my head and I don’t recall the number being stamped on the die either
My Makarov die is too narrow. I'm about to break my press when I go to size .388 sized cases through the Makarov die and buldge buster adapter
Your cases are not out of spec. 0.391" is the cartridge spec for 9mm Luger. If yours are at 0.388" then they should chamber in your firearm.
You can hide it, but you can't fix it. The brass is compromised.
The Lee Bulge Buster is not recommended for 9mm by Lee
How many times can or should you do this with the same brass before it's dangerous? I'm getting into reloading .40 but only have a glock in that caliber. Thank you
I only do it once. I run an aftermarket barrel so they won’t bulge. But once I remove the bulge I only do it one time. Don’t want to work the brass
@@vaughnprecision thank you
Brass shot in a loose glock barrel is weak. Resizing these cases only hides the already compromised brass. If you are smart you'll not reuse brass shot out of a glock. Particularly 40 cal brass. It's a problem in all of them but worse in the 40. Don't blow your hand off trying to penny pinch!!
I bought some reloads from a gun show and out of 1000 I had two rounds that jammed the gun, when I cleared it I noticed that a live round failed to seat in chamber and the casing had a huge bulge where the casing meets the bullet. I was wondering if this was from the reloads or was it my pistol? I have MP shield 9 mm first gen only changed the trigger on it everything else is stock
Unfortunately without seeing it I have no idea. Run some factory though it and see how she runs.
If you decide to keep using a factory glock barrel will I have any issues using the bulge buster or the cases that are resized?
I know this is a year old but whatever. If the chambered round is rotated in the chamber at the same spot where it was the last time it was fired then there is a theoretical weak spot being subjected to the same forces again and again. The risk is LESSENED but not eliminated when very close examination of the brass is done prior to reloading it again. Some say it is not worth the risk. It is a risk that we must make for ourselves.
I just received mine. I bought the kit and the 9mm Makrov crimp die and ran several though. I did feel the resistance, but when I go to measure them in my LE Wilson case gauge, they still won't pass. I ran them though several times again and they still won't pass the gauge test. So....does this work or no? I'm looking into the Redding GRX die now!
Your 9 Makarov die is probably a defective one. Contact Lee Precision explain your problem.
What crimp die do I need for 357 sig?
What is the part ( or parts ) number?
Found the makarov 9 mm die but which lee bulge buster do you use with it
What do u mean? There’s only one Lee Bulge Buster.
The 9mm is a tapered case and the rim is larger in dia. then the case. How does the case go thru that die?
That is why they use the 9mm Makarov die, as it does not have a taper.
My brass is already at a .388 diameter but my rounds still won't pass a plunk test in my lonewolf g17 barrel. My case overall length is 1.100, and my projectile diameter is .356 (ACME) . Should I get my chamber reamed, what case overall length works for you?
Did you find a solution? I would try shortening the COL first than reaming the barrel chamber.
@@cpd969 Yes I did, but not after I sold my glock and started loading for CZs. A CZ definitely taught me to shorten the COAL unless I was using something like Berry, or Xtreme bullets.
Loaded 1000s with lee dies. Shoot glock and many others no issues so far
"Puh-lig-un-ull"
I guess I'm wierd, but I have NEVER had any problem with my handloads in my Glock.
Older glock barrels had less support at the head and could bulge and possibly weaken the brass (glock Kabooms). I just check all my brass in a lyman 8 hole checker. .40 and 10mm seem to be the worst.
Easy!
Dumb the Glock and by a gun which fully-supports the brass.
:)
you said you use the glock barrel for protection , that don't sound right , the gun can still blow up on factory ammo , i have seen it happen a number of times. remember the glock smile.
The only real reason I use the Glock barrel is because it will eat most anything I throw down it. I only use the aftermarket because it doesnt bulge the case so bad.
Why take long way around the barn to get to the door and it’s still broken. It’s the barrel chamber specs. CHANGE OUT THE DAMN BARREL TO A WOLF, OR OTHE SUITABLE. Or shoot SAAMI spec ammo!! Glock sez it’s the chamber and there’s hundreds of folks measuring and measuring and still it stays the same. I load thousands of 9mm on Stars and Dillons with no trouble in Glock standard barrels but one has to know how to do this. Nothing wrong with tapered cases. Years ago there were small base dies made for .243, 6 mm rifles etc that were autos and their chambers were a tad larger than other bolt gun chambers. This has been solved for 60+ years or better. Chamber and die have to match.
Guess I'll never buy a glock
rt dc the Glock will eat anything. However if your going to reload, the factory barrel isn’t the best. Just upgrade the barrel.
Do you remove the primer before you throw the case through the bulge buster?
not always