Bob, you are a treasure. I bought a 201k aluminium machine which had lost a fight with someone with an oil can and no idea what lint was. The poor thing was badly skipping stitches and I couldn't fix the timing because the line on the needlebar adjustment gauge just wouldn't line up. While following along with this video I discovered that the gauge had swivelled and had been put back on the bar upside down. Timing was correct but the needle bar height was out by nearly 1/4 of an inch. This video turned what I thought would be hours of work into a 20 min job for a complete novice. Thank you!
Bob, you definitely have THE best videos on youtube. I've restored a few 201-2's, and own one. Absolutely nothing sews better, smoother or quieter. Truly the best ever made by anyone.
"The spring is usually very well attached". Famous last words. I started working on my 201 in my 8' x 8' sewing room. On my machine the spring sprung somewhere in that tiny space. Hubby and I spent hours searching for the spring - never found it. "Hello E-Bay, my old friend". LOL
@@BobFowlerWorkshop Yup, that one. When I installed the new spring, I discovered why you stated that it was supposed to stay on snug. It was really difficult to attach. Took hubby about 20 minutes. It’s on now! Thanks, again for your videos!
You should pull out the very ending with the trick for reinstalling the needle clamp and make it its own movie! I don't know why I think I'll remember how to do it the next time...only to have to find this video again! :)
Thank you for filming this process and sharing it on CZcams! I found one of these machines at a thrift store and decided to fix it up myself! Your videos are so helpful and informative! Thanks again!
Thank you for this - I've done it once before for a machine I did for a friend and have another pulled apart and cleaned (that will be my own machine). I did that several months ago now so this video will be really handy for when I have to put it back together again.
My sliding block, does not slide, lol. My hand wheel does not turn, my needle bar does not raise, my presser bar does not raise, sighhhh. I’m gonna keep at her though.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop yep. I managed to get slight movement in everything except the needle bar and horizontal hook drive shaft. The presser bar is now fully operational YAY. Other than the WD version called “penetrant” any idea on what I could to to get those parts moving chemically? I’ve tried steel wool as well and a good clean. I read maybe a bit of kerosene, should I try a drop of rust converter or will that just make it harder to knock those bar/shafts out if it comes to that?
@@alisonaussie4995 If you need something with a bit of abrasive power to clean dried crud, you can (carefully) use a green Scotch Brite pad to help get the nasty stuff off.
Bob, I’ve watched this video about 20 times today as I put my 201 back together today. This has been so helpful! You mention that you would be setting the needle bar and presser foot height later-but I can’t find the video that you address this. Help! Thanks so much for your amazing content. BTW - the bobbin video that you recorded last week came out in the nick of time.
This righty loosy, lefty tighty screw almost drove me crazy. But if you don‘t know it either.... But now, this f...... screw is loose 🤣😂 You are one of the best, thanks a lot and take care.
Can you please make a video to show how to replace the 201K tension unit as a whole please. There are many videos out there on how to disassemble, clean and reassemble the 201 tension unit, but can’t locate one that shows which screws etc need to be removed to replace the tension unit as a whole! Thanks in advance.
Thank God I came across your video's! I am restoring a 15-91 and a 201-2 and your video's are the best!!! I have a question. When taking the motor apart on both machines, neither one of them had the fiber washer. I don't see one on the shaft or on the bearing. How important is it and where do I buy one?
Hi Angela. Not all motors have the fiber washers, and some even have thin plastic washers, yet others have none. It's purpose is to set clearances and reduce/remove end play from the motor shaft. If yours doesn't have it, and if it looks like nobody was in there before you, don't worry about it, it probably was never there. Just make sure to carefully check the face of the bushing inside to see if it is stuck to the bronze as that can happen.
Hi Bob, thanks for this video! I came across it while trying to fix the problem I'm having where lifting and lowering the presser foot lever does not cause the tension stud pin to move so the tension discs are always in the engaged position. I started following along thinking I'd just clean the whole area but thought I'd ask, before I get too far, whether you think I'm likely to find the cause of this issue or, generally, whether there is some standard cause for this problem which I've heard is not uncommon for 201s. Your guidance would be most appreciated!
There are a number of reasons why this may be happening. My guess is that either someone played with the set screw that holds the upper thread tension unit in place and it's too far out from the body, so now the pin does nothing, or, the pin is missing, or, the transfer bar in the needle bar box is bent and not engaging the pin. I'll show the possibilities on this Sunday's Sunday Morning Quickies.
Hi Bob. Great video, thanks so much. It's been essential for breaking down my 201-2. A couple comments: I found it much easier to remove the metal cap blocking the needle bar from the top rather than from the bottom. You don't have to find the right size punch and awkwardly hit it from the bottom. I took a wooden dowel pin and hit it with a hammer to knock that metal cap DOWN and out. Much easier in my opinion. Also, have you checked the inner part of the head, near the light, next to where the access hole for that needle bar set screw is? This is where the set screw for the tensioner assembly is on my machine, from 1938. I don't believe yours was stripped, I think the screw is simply meant to be inserted on the other side. Of course, I could also see how this may have been a minor design change over time.
This has nothing to do with a singer, but rather a Kenmore. I went and looked for one of your CZcams videos and came across this one and speaking of disassembly, this is what I did ……..I have the 158.18023 and was wondering if you have a video on how to reassemble the high shank mechanism. I unscrewed the left side, took out the nut on the right side and I’m totally lost now. Actually, I bought the machine and found out that it didn’t have the nut but I found one that fits so I don’t know if it has to be Kenmore specific or if this one will work but what I’m trying to do now is just trying to find a video on how to put it back because it looks like there is some sort of calibrating that needs to take place. Thanks
at 12:30 what are you turning fomo the back of the arm to tighten down on the needle bar? Mine looks different and has nothing to unscrew or screw through the hole in the back.
Which style needle bar clamp do you have? There are two styles, one with a screw in the back that can only be accessed with the needle bar in the lowered position, and one with the screw in the front. at 12:30, I'm going for the screw on the back of the clamp. Seem my video "A Tale of Two Needle Bars" for more info: czcams.com/video/rphb5wBzjek/video.html
Bob You have been very helpful to me but I am having a very hard time finding what you called in this video a pressure bar adjuster, most of these sites you sent me to Don’t Know What I am speaking of, Once again I have a Model Number 66 singer, built in 1919, Maybe You could help me with a part number or something else which would be of help. Thank Again.
That is not the part, I do appreciate your diligence in trying to help , but it is the knob which goes over that rod and has threads where it goes into the casting on the head, as a guess I would say the threads are 7/16 and hole that goes over rod Is 5/16 the knob is knurled for turning , thanks again.
thank you for this, I have a 201-2, that is making scary noises, I think it was damaged in transit, (still sews, but sounds angry about it) I am in the midst of trying to figure out, where the noise is coming from, and what can be done about it .
Thank you for the very helpful video ! I can't get the pressure bar out because it's stuck in the little block. Would you have an idea to separate them ?
Sure... remove the sets crew, take off the presser foot and screw, then grab the bottom of the shaft with pliers and rotate it to break it free from the schmoo. If she doesn't want to move, try slathering the rod with some oil and scrubbing with a green Scotch-Btite pad.
Another question... How would you deal with a stuck needle bar ? It's stuck in its up position so I can't access the screw trough the hole you mention. I think it's actually because of the needle bar that the whole machine is frozen. All the other parts slightly move when I turn the wheel.
Preferred tools... My favorite subject! I love this screw driver set: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QRCYCXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and to get the backside type needlebar clamps it's hard to beat this bit: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXC2964/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Hi Bob, thanks for a great video, I really appreciate your detailed explanations (calling out the screw bit numbers is 👍). I’m curious if you’ve ever had to reposition the needle bar bushing (part #66558) on a 201? How would you go about moving that bushing down so it’s a bit lower? Thanks!
It's a bit unusual to have to move the needle bar bushing on a 201, but the process would be the same as for most of the others: loosen or remove the set screw, then use an appropriate sized punch and a few gentle taps to nudge it into position. Just be careful to use a punch large enough that you don't damage the top of the bushing. Also, GENTLE taps go a long way - don't wail on it, you can break the casting!
Yeah, definitely a bit weird. I noticed that my timing gauge was a few millimeters above where it should be located but I was having trouble figuring out why. When I removed the set screw for the needle bar bushing the recessed flat spot was showing up above the screw hole (if that makes sense) so my best guess is the whole busing is just up a bit too high. Am I correct in assuming that the set screw should land on that recessed section on the needle bar bushing?
@@P_Hamtramck That would be a safe assumption, but you must remember that there is a degree of adjustment there as well. I just made some measurements on a few different 201's and the top of the needle bar bushings AVERAGED 7mm above the inside of the castings. I hope that helps. If you look at page 46 of the adjusters manual, it specifies how to set proper needle bar height. That height is correct when the top of the eye of the needle is 1/16: below the point of the hook when set in timing position. Hope this helps.
Hi Bob I just got a singer 16-88 and the needle bar was loose, I'm trying to fix this up and get the right timing.. But there's no mark on the bar, I think it's a fixed timing ( shuttle going one way only) which mean only the bar can be moved to set the correct timing .. I'm lost here, if you can help that will be magnificent =D I've been trying for 3 days to get this work.. Thanks!! Same model is Consew 18, and there's almost nothing talking about these machines, and how to fix them.
OK, here's what you can do if you don't have timing marks - you'll need to channel your inner jazz musician and improvise! You will want the needle plate removed, as well as the feed dogs to make this process easier. On a piece of stiff paper, make 2 very fine marks 2.5mm apart. Yes, 2.5mm, but you can eyeball that easy enough. You will also need to make another gauge with points 1/16" apart. Make a a very fine mark on the needle bar clamp - think a very thin line (You can use India ink, then scratch a line with a pin or razor blade). Turn the balance wheel towards you until the needle bar is at the absolute bottom of the stroke. Place your 2.5mm gauge up against the end of the machine so that the lower mark is aligned with your mark on the clamp. Next, turn the top of the balance wheel towards you so the mark you made on the needle bar clamp is aligned with the top mark on your 2.5mm gauge. Don't move anything! With your needle bar in this position, the point of the hook should be directly behind the needle. If it's not, loosen the linkage that is attached to the hook and adjust. You will want to confirm the position of the needle bar as you do this - keep checking... The next step is to measure the needle bar height. Using your gauge with the 1/16" marks, measure the distance from the top of the eye of the needle to the point on the hook, that distance should be 1/16". If not, loosen the needle bar clamp and move the needle bar up or down to adjust. A magnifying glass helps a lot. It sounds hard, but it's really not. It may take a couple of tries, but you'll get it. I hope this helps...
@@BobFowlerWorkshop Thanks so much I will do everything you said as the best as I can.. I was not sure if I could loosen the linkage that is attached to the hook, I thought about I may need to move the hook to get all the thing aligned correctly, now it makes sense.. The only thing I found was this: bring the needle bar to bottom dead center and from there you rise the needle bar approx 2.5mm (as I said I have no exact values for the Class 16) and an that point the hook tip should be in the center of the needle approx 2mm above the needle eye. I was kinda lost, but now I will try everything you explain to me. Thanks so much again, I will be back.. :-)
@@BobFowlerWorkshop As I understand it, as soon as the needle bar get loosen, you need to loosen and readjust the shuttle hook to retime with the needle and bar right ?even though it was not displaced, but because the needle bar got loosen? I tried to figured out this mechanism phenomena.. Is is frequent that these machines have no marks on their needle bar?
I'm curious as to how that is possible. The 201 needle bushing is fixed in position in the cast iron body and is not adjustable laterally. Is your needle bent?
I'm trying to do this disassembly/reassembly on a Singer 66 dumpster find. I've been able to clean most of the grime from around the needle bar but still can't get it loosened enough to separate it from the take-up lever. Do you have any advice?
@@BobFowlerWorkshop The lever itself isn't seized. What you do at around the 3:43-3:44 mark of the video with removing the bar itself from the apparatus - that's what I can't manage. There was a significant amount of old grease and buildup caked around the bar in that area. I've cleaned it as best I can, but the bar is still stuck in the take-up lever apparatus.
@@RT-rc4jv Ahhhhh.... Ok. With the clamp screw removed, or at least loosened, try this. Put the needle clamp back on if it's off, and using finger pressure only, try to spin the needle bar in its bushing and clamp by rotating the needle clamp. I had one just this morning that was stuck as you mention.
Great question! Really the only thing a 66 and a 201 have in common is the class 66 bobbin. The 66 uses an oscillating hook whereas the 201 is a rotary hook. The advantage of a rotary hook is the rotating mass of the hook never has to change direction, whereas the oscillating hook changes direction before every stitch to get to the starting point. Thus, a rotary hook machine vibrates less. The needle bar parts are pretty close, but not quite the same. The big difference is underneath the machine.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop I now have one , I ordered it along with some other parts from a guy on eBay, Now I have to get all of the problems addressed, Thanks once Again.
Bob, you are a treasure. I bought a 201k aluminium machine which had lost a fight with someone with an oil can and no idea what lint was. The poor thing was badly skipping stitches and I couldn't fix the timing because the line on the needlebar adjustment gauge just wouldn't line up. While following along with this video I discovered that the gauge had swivelled and had been put back on the bar upside down. Timing was correct but the needle bar height was out by nearly 1/4 of an inch. This video turned what I thought would be hours of work into a 20 min job for a complete novice. Thank you!
Bob, you definitely have THE best videos on youtube. I've restored a few 201-2's, and own one. Absolutely nothing sews better, smoother or quieter. Truly the best ever made by anyone.
Glad to help! I love my 201's...
"The spring is usually very well attached". Famous last words. I started working on my 201 in my 8' x 8' sewing room. On my machine the spring sprung somewhere in that tiny space. Hubby and I spent hours searching for the spring - never found it. "Hello E-Bay, my old friend". LOL
Which spring??? The one on the fork that actuates the upper thread tension release?
@@BobFowlerWorkshop Yup, that one. When I installed the new spring, I discovered why you stated that it was supposed to stay on snug. It was really difficult to attach. Took hubby about 20 minutes. It’s on now! Thanks, again for your videos!
Wish I could send you a photo of my 66k I think my timing is out and your videos have been very helpful.
email it to me at argosybob@gmail.com
You should pull out the very ending with the trick for reinstalling the needle clamp and make it its own movie! I don't know why I think I'll remember how to do it the next time...only to have to find this video again! :)
I'll shoot a video of that!
Thank you for filming this process and sharing it on CZcams! I found one of these machines at a thrift store and decided to fix it up myself! Your videos are so helpful and informative! Thanks again!
That's great to hear, thank you!
Thank you for this - I've done it once before for a machine I did for a friend and have another pulled apart and cleaned (that will be my own machine). I did that several months ago now so this video will be really handy for when I have to put it back together again.
Glad it helped!
Thank you, thank you, thank, YOu, you’re awesome. Have a great day. 👏
My sliding block, does not slide, lol. My hand wheel does not turn, my needle bar does not raise, my presser bar does not raise, sighhhh. I’m gonna keep at her though.
Sounds like you have a bad case of schmoo in the mechanism!
@@BobFowlerWorkshop yep. I managed to get slight movement in everything except the needle bar and horizontal hook drive shaft. The presser bar is now fully operational YAY. Other than the WD version called “penetrant” any idea on what I could to to get those parts moving chemically? I’ve tried steel wool as well and a good clean. I read maybe a bit of kerosene, should I try a drop of rust converter or will that just make it harder to knock those bar/shafts out if it comes to that?
@@alisonaussie4995 If you need something with a bit of abrasive power to clean dried crud, you can (carefully) use a green Scotch Brite pad to help get the nasty stuff off.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop thanks Bob, I've got it all completely unstuck now and cleaned.
Bob, I’ve watched this video about 20 times today as I put my 201 back together today. This has been so helpful! You mention that you would be setting the needle bar and presser foot height later-but I can’t find the video that you address this. Help! Thanks so much for your amazing content. BTW - the bobbin video that you recorded last week came out in the nick of time.
Thanks for keeping me honest! |Here it is:
czcams.com/video/kHUDcxJpgcY/video.html
This righty loosy, lefty tighty screw almost drove me crazy. But if you don‘t know it either....
But now, this f...... screw is loose 🤣😂 You are one of the best, thanks a lot and take care.
Yeah... I've seen that screw butchered a few times...
Can you please make a video to show how to replace the 201K tension unit as a whole please. There are many videos out there on how to disassemble, clean and reassemble the 201 tension unit, but can’t locate one that shows which screws etc need to be removed to replace the tension unit as a whole! Thanks in advance.
Thank God I came across your video's! I am restoring a 15-91 and a 201-2 and your video's are the best!!! I have a question. When taking the motor apart on both machines, neither one of them had the fiber washer. I don't see one on the shaft or on the bearing. How important is it and where do I buy one?
Hi Angela. Not all motors have the fiber washers, and some even have thin plastic washers, yet others have none. It's purpose is to set clearances and reduce/remove end play from the motor shaft. If yours doesn't have it, and if it looks like nobody was in there before you, don't worry about it, it probably was never there. Just make sure to carefully check the face of the bushing inside to see if it is stuck to the bronze as that can happen.
Did you make a video about the balance wheel?
Hi Bob, thanks for this video! I came across it while trying to fix the problem I'm having where lifting and lowering the presser foot lever does not cause the tension stud pin to move so the tension discs are always in the engaged position. I started following along thinking I'd just clean the whole area but thought I'd ask, before I get too far, whether you think I'm likely to find the cause of this issue or, generally, whether there is some standard cause for this problem which I've heard is not uncommon for 201s. Your guidance would be most appreciated!
There are a number of reasons why this may be happening. My guess is that either someone played with the set screw that holds the upper thread tension unit in place and it's too far out from the body, so now the pin does nothing, or, the pin is missing, or, the transfer bar in the needle bar box is bent and not engaging the pin. I'll show the possibilities on this Sunday's Sunday Morning Quickies.
Hi Bob. Great video, thanks so much. It's been essential for breaking down my 201-2. A couple comments: I found it much easier to remove the metal cap blocking the needle bar from the top rather than from the bottom. You don't have to find the right size punch and awkwardly hit it from the bottom. I took a wooden dowel pin and hit it with a hammer to knock that metal cap DOWN and out. Much easier in my opinion. Also, have you checked the inner part of the head, near the light, next to where the access hole for that needle bar set screw is? This is where the set screw for the tensioner assembly is on my machine, from 1938. I don't believe yours was stripped, I think the screw is simply meant to be inserted on the other side. Of course, I could also see how this may have been a minor design change over time.
Some 201's have the set screw on different sides. It can drive you crazy! Mine was in fact stripped...
This has nothing to do with a singer, but rather a Kenmore. I went and looked for one of your CZcams videos and came across this one and speaking of disassembly, this is what I did ……..I have the 158.18023 and was wondering if you have a video on how to reassemble the high shank mechanism. I unscrewed the left side, took out the nut on the right side and I’m totally lost now. Actually, I bought the machine and found out that it didn’t have the nut but I found one that fits so I don’t know if it has to be Kenmore specific or if this one will work but what I’m trying to do now is just trying to find a video on how to put it back because it looks like there is some sort of calibrating that needs to take place. Thanks
at 12:30 what are you turning fomo the back of the arm to tighten down on the needle bar? Mine looks different and has nothing to unscrew or screw through the hole in the back.
Which style needle bar clamp do you have? There are two styles, one with a screw in the back that can only be accessed with the needle bar in the lowered position, and one with the screw in the front. at 12:30, I'm going for the screw on the back of the clamp. Seem my video "A Tale of Two Needle Bars" for more info: czcams.com/video/rphb5wBzjek/video.html
we repainted our 201 and our presser bar is stuck...won't glide in, any suggestions?
Hi Gia. It's probably paint in the hole. It doesn't take much as the clearances are very tight! Try cleaning any paint out with a small wire brush.
Bob You have been very helpful to me but I am having a very hard time finding what you called in this video a pressure bar adjuster, most of these sites you sent me to Don’t Know What I am speaking of, Once again I have a Model Number 66 singer, built in 1919, Maybe You could help me with a part number or something else which would be of help. Thank Again.
Try this listing, it's #25 in this ebay listing, same part for a 66 as a 15
www.ebay.com/itm/383282639062?hash=item593d6cf0d6:g:QgMAAOSwyMVd2blR
That is not the part, I do appreciate your diligence in trying to help , but it is the knob which goes over that rod and has threads where it goes into the casting on the head, as a guess I would say the threads are 7/16 and hole that goes over rod Is 5/16 the knob is knurled for turning , thanks again.
OK Bob I think I have found it on E-Bay , not sure but will let you know when package gets here, Once again thanks for caring.
thank you for this, I have a 201-2, that is making scary noises, I think it was damaged in transit, (still sews, but sounds angry about it) I am in the midst of trying to figure out, where the noise is coming from, and what can be done about it .
I'd love to hear the noises... Where is it coming from,? Needle bar area? Underneath?
Thank you for the very helpful video ! I can't get the pressure bar out because it's stuck in the little block. Would you have an idea to separate them ?
Sure... remove the sets crew, take off the presser foot and screw, then grab the bottom of the shaft with pliers and rotate it to break it free from the schmoo. If she doesn't want to move, try slathering the rod with some oil and scrubbing with a green Scotch-Btite pad.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop it worked perfectly ! Thanks a lot 😃
Another question... How would you deal with a stuck needle bar ? It's stuck in its up position so I can't access the screw trough the hole you mention. I think it's actually because of the needle bar that the whole machine is frozen. All the other parts slightly move when I turn the wheel.
Bob How do i remove the needle bar bush
Can you please tell me what size bit and screw driver you used to get the needle bar screw undone from the back? I have the same set up on my 201-2
Preferred tools... My favorite subject! I love this screw driver set:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QRCYCXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and to get the backside type needlebar clamps it's hard to beat this bit:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXC2964/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
@@BobFowlerWorkshop thank you so much you may have saved my sanity 🙏 haha
Hi Bob, thanks for a great video, I really appreciate your detailed explanations (calling out the screw bit numbers is 👍). I’m curious if you’ve ever had to reposition the needle bar bushing (part #66558) on a 201? How would you go about moving that bushing down so it’s a bit lower? Thanks!
It's a bit unusual to have to move the needle bar bushing on a 201, but the process would be the same as for most of the others: loosen or remove the set screw, then use an appropriate sized punch and a few gentle taps to nudge it into position. Just be careful to use a punch large enough that you don't damage the top of the bushing. Also, GENTLE taps go a long way - don't wail on it, you can break the casting!
Yeah, definitely a bit weird. I noticed that my timing gauge was a few millimeters above where it should be located but I was having trouble figuring out why. When I removed the set screw for the needle bar bushing the recessed flat spot was showing up above the screw hole (if that makes sense) so my best guess is the whole busing is just up a bit too high. Am I correct in assuming that the set screw should land on that recessed section on the needle bar bushing?
@@P_Hamtramck That would be a safe assumption, but you must remember that there is a degree of adjustment there as well. I just made some measurements on a few different 201's and the top of the needle bar bushings AVERAGED 7mm above the inside of the castings. I hope that helps. If you look at page 46 of the adjusters manual, it specifies how to set proper needle bar height. That height is correct when the top of the eye of the needle is 1/16: below the point of the hook when set in timing position. Hope this helps.
Hi Bob I just got a singer 16-88 and the needle bar was loose, I'm trying to fix this up and get the right timing.. But there's no mark on the bar, I think it's a fixed timing ( shuttle going one way only) which mean only the bar can be moved to set the correct timing .. I'm lost here, if you can help that will be magnificent =D I've been trying for 3 days to get this work.. Thanks!! Same model is Consew 18, and there's almost nothing talking about these machines, and how to fix them.
OK, here's what you can do if you don't have timing marks - you'll need to channel your inner jazz musician and improvise!
You will want the needle plate removed, as well as the feed dogs to make this process easier.
On a piece of stiff paper, make 2 very fine marks 2.5mm apart. Yes, 2.5mm, but you can eyeball that easy enough. You will also need to make another gauge with points 1/16" apart.
Make a a very fine mark on the needle bar clamp - think a very thin line (You can use India ink, then scratch a line with a pin or razor blade).
Turn the balance wheel towards you until the needle bar is at the absolute bottom of the stroke. Place your 2.5mm gauge up against the end of the machine so that the lower mark is aligned with your mark on the clamp. Next, turn the top of the balance wheel towards you so the mark you made on the needle bar clamp is aligned with the top mark on your 2.5mm gauge. Don't move anything!
With your needle bar in this position, the point of the hook should be directly behind the needle. If it's not, loosen the linkage that is attached to the hook and adjust. You will want to confirm the position of the needle bar as you do this - keep checking...
The next step is to measure the needle bar height. Using your gauge with the 1/16" marks, measure the distance from the top of the eye of the needle to the point on the hook, that distance should be 1/16". If not, loosen the needle bar clamp and move the needle bar up or down to adjust. A magnifying glass helps a lot.
It sounds hard, but it's really not. It may take a couple of tries, but you'll get it.
I hope this helps...
I did a video on timing the 66. You'll find it here:
czcams.com/video/TZy567gCVgs/video.html
@@BobFowlerWorkshop Thanks so much I will do everything you said as the best as I can.. I was not sure if I could loosen the linkage that is attached to the hook, I thought about I may need to move the hook to get all the thing aligned correctly, now it makes sense.. The only thing I found was this: bring the needle bar to bottom dead center and from there you rise the needle bar approx 2.5mm (as I said I have no exact values for the Class 16) and an that point the hook tip should be in the center of the needle approx 2mm above the needle eye. I was kinda lost, but now I will try everything you explain to me. Thanks so much again, I will be back.. :-)
@@BobFowlerWorkshop As I understand it, as soon as the needle bar get loosen, you need to loosen and readjust the shuttle hook to retime with the needle and bar right ?even though it was not displaced, but because the needle bar got loosen? I tried to figured out this mechanism phenomena.. Is is frequent that these machines have no marks on their needle bar?
I enjoy w atching your video. Can you do a video on adjusting the needle bar on a Singer 201? My needle is to the left of the plate hole.. Thank you.
I'm curious as to how that is possible. The 201 needle bushing is fixed in position in the cast iron body and is not adjustable laterally. Is your needle bent?
@@BobFowlerWorkshop no. Brand new needle. I just received the machine Friday from an eBay seller. No needle in it when received.
@@yvejo7938 email me some pictures of the problem to argosybob@gmail.com
I'm trying to do this disassembly/reassembly on a Singer 66 dumpster find. I've been able to clean most of the grime from around the needle bar but still can't get it loosened enough to separate it from the take-up lever. Do you have any advice?
Is the needle bar seized up or down?
@@BobFowlerWorkshop The lever itself isn't seized. What you do at around the 3:43-3:44 mark of the video with removing the bar itself from the apparatus - that's what I can't manage. There was a significant amount of old grease and buildup caked around the bar in that area. I've cleaned it as best I can, but the bar is still stuck in the take-up lever apparatus.
@@RT-rc4jv Ahhhhh.... Ok. With the clamp screw removed, or at least loosened, try this. Put the needle clamp back on if it's off, and using finger pressure only, try to spin the needle bar in its bushing and clamp by rotating the needle clamp. I had one just this morning that was stuck as you mention.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop worked like a charm! Thank you!
What's the difference between that one and a 66 they look so much the same to me
Great question! Really the only thing a 66 and a 201 have in common is the class 66 bobbin. The 66 uses an oscillating hook whereas the 201 is a rotary hook. The advantage of a rotary hook is the rotating mass of the hook never has to change direction, whereas the oscillating hook changes direction before every stitch to get to the starting point. Thus, a rotary hook machine vibrates less. The needle bar parts are pretty close, but not quite the same. The big difference is underneath the machine.
Floppin in the breeze🤣
That knob is completely missing on my machine.
What's missing, the adjusting screw???
@@BobFowlerWorkshop I now have one , I ordered it along with some other parts from a guy on eBay, Now I have to get all of the problems addressed, Thanks once Again.