Badass video Mr. ELLWIN IM saving up to get that exact engine 383 lt1 and im 3/4 the way there im hoping to have you tune it if i can get the torque heads unit to go with it
@@EllweinEngines yeah I finished it up last weekend. Think that will be the next video on the channel.... made 45 psi on the drill at about 450 rpm on 10w30... Now just trying ro get the cooling system setup since I cut the front end off the camaro for a rock solid motors tube front.
Didn't say it in the video you showed it in, but thanks for showing the bearing part number for the WP Drive in the block. Doubt mine needs replaced as the block only has 50k miles on it and was running fine when I pulled it out of my T/A. But while I've got it down to the bare block I'm replacing everything. And finding that bearing PN was becoming a pain in my ass. The part number showing in ALLDATA was obsolete with no supersede that I could find.
@@EllweinEngines I've found a few but have not pulled the trigger on them yet as the ones I've found are made by a company called Precision Bearings out of China. And I'm a little worried about the quality. So I'm still on the hunt.
Great video. I just recently had my 94 LT1 383 stroker overhauled, new gaskets freeze plugs, coolant system from water pump to radiator, heads milled and redone with bigger springs, clutch, headers. 4000 dollars I’ve spent so far. I get it back and it’s running hot. Not a leak anywhere, pressure tested, fans working, fluids seem to be fine. Any ideas on what could be going on? Just can’t seem to figure it out while running out of money. Thanks
I think sometimes this would be the steam line (back of the heads) is clogged. I like to hear that the water is trickling into the coolant expansion tank as a verification that the steam line is working. Maybe the thermostat is the wrong style? A genuine LT1 thermostat is taller. You probably already checked all of that. But those are the common things I see.
Make sure you have a true lt1 160 thermostat installed. If you do, my absolute best guess is you are running lean now with the upgrades. You need to tune the ecu, on a 94-95 that's a pain in the ass unless you know about obd 1.5
@@coreysharp9794 I’ll keep that in mind thank you. I’m thinking it’s either that or I didn’t fill the coolant system back properly. Also, I just noticed only 1 fan was running and I never see both going. I even thought maybe I had a coolant line backwards but I see fluid moving. I appreciate the response.
@@USGovsOwnersRtheRealEnemy on my 93 the fans run in a series. The driver side comes on 1st and handles the load. The passenger side only comes on over 200 something. You know how wild the temp gauge is... Also, there are bleeders on the lines off the pump if you got air in the system. Last time I replaced the pump and coolant I refilled it from the top of the pump until it was full, put the thermostat in and then filled the radiator. I fired it up with the cap off and waited until the thermostat opened and then continued to fill it until she was full.
it's hard to estimate. Typically it is close to $10,000 for all the good forged bottom end and the good heads and supporting parts. That's a true honest forecast of cost.
Man I would love to have my 93 lt1 in my corvette built by you! 😮
Engine is coming along great Karl! Can’t wait to install in the the SS…
Badass video Mr. ELLWIN IM saving up to get that exact engine 383 lt1 and im 3/4 the way there im hoping to have you tune it if i can get the torque heads unit to go with it
Another solid looking build! Thanks for sharing these videos! Awesome to see a pro builder at work!
Thanks. Is your LT1 finished?
@@EllweinEngines yeah I finished it up last weekend. Think that will be the next video on the channel.... made 45 psi on the drill at about 450 rpm on 10w30... Now just trying ro get the cooling system setup since I cut the front end off the camaro for a rock solid motors tube front.
@@YerkitRacingChannel Love me some Rock Solid Motorsports!
Didn't say it in the video you showed it in, but thanks for showing the bearing part number for the WP Drive in the block. Doubt mine needs replaced as the block only has 50k miles on it and was running fine when I pulled it out of my T/A. But while I've got it down to the bare block I'm replacing everything. And finding that bearing PN was becoming a pain in my ass. The part number showing in ALLDATA was obsolete with no supersede that I could find.
Were you able to find the bearing available somewhere? I can see if I can find who I ordered from and also the Timken bearing too.
@@EllweinEngines I've found a few but have not pulled the trigger on them yet as the ones I've found are made by a company called Precision Bearings out of China. And I'm a little worried about the quality. So I'm still on the hunt.
Great video man! Where did you get those splayed 4 bolt main caps I want to do the same for my 95 lt1
Milodon small block Chevy splayed caps. Good stuff.
Great video. I just recently had my 94 LT1 383 stroker overhauled, new gaskets freeze plugs, coolant system from water pump to radiator, heads milled and redone with bigger springs, clutch, headers. 4000 dollars I’ve spent so far. I get it back and it’s running hot. Not a leak anywhere, pressure tested, fans working, fluids seem to be fine. Any ideas on what could be going on? Just can’t seem to figure it out while running out of money. Thanks
I think sometimes this would be the steam line (back of the heads) is clogged. I like to hear that the water is trickling into the coolant expansion tank as a verification that the steam line is working. Maybe the thermostat is the wrong style? A genuine LT1 thermostat is taller. You probably already checked all of that. But those are the common things I see.
Make sure you have a true lt1 160 thermostat installed. If you do, my absolute best guess is you are running lean now with the upgrades. You need to tune the ecu, on a 94-95 that's a pain in the ass unless you know about obd 1.5
@@coreysharp9794 I’ll keep that in mind thank you. I’m thinking it’s either that or I didn’t fill the coolant system back properly. Also, I just noticed only 1 fan was running and I never see both going. I even thought maybe I had a coolant line backwards but I see fluid moving. I appreciate the response.
@@USGovsOwnersRtheRealEnemy on my 93 the fans run in a series. The driver side comes on 1st and handles the load. The passenger side only comes on over 200 something. You know how wild the temp gauge is...
Also, there are bleeders on the lines off the pump if you got air in the system. Last time I replaced the pump and coolant I refilled it from the top of the pump until it was full, put the thermostat in and then filled the radiator. I fired it up with the cap off and waited until the thermostat opened and then continued to fill it until she was full.
wow no lube on the crank bearings, and torque to 100% on a single cap with out the other even installed. bet it lasted 20 min
any idea how much hp your customer made with that bottom end setup since they were forced induction?
No not yet. The car is almost finished and maybe we will know soon.
Do needed the windrage tray installed
Yes. Most definitely. If no windage tray there will be oil and air. You'll see 40 psig at the gauge but that's oil and air
Thank you and that’s what thought
do you tack the oil pick-up tube on your builds?
No. Most of them no.
Thank You, Karl Good Work Good Video & Music
thanks
What is the average hp these 383 make with stock ported heads? Just looking for a ballpark I know cams ect can change a lot.
With stock ported heads by someone like Lloyd Elliott I see 500 + HP on the engine dyno. 450 hp with a very mild streetable camshaft.
@@EllweinEngines thanks
Karl what pistons did you go with on the 383 build
SRP Pro 361108
How much would this cost to put in my car?
it's hard to estimate. Typically it is close to $10,000 for all the good forged bottom end and the good heads and supporting parts. That's a true honest forecast of cost.