How to Lubricate Your Bicycle Chain: The right way and the wrong way
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- čas přidán 29. 09. 2020
- We'll show you how to oil a bike chain. First, you only need 2 types of chain lubricant: A dry lube such as Finish Line Dry Lubricant and a wet lube such as Finish Line Wet Lubricant depending on the weather conditions.
Lubricants' such as White Lightening can really gunk up your drivetrain and can be difficult to clean. Multipurpose lubes just pick up dirt and grime. Those that have heavy way like components just gum up the chain and are difficult to remove. At least this has been our experience.
I do a quick 2 minute drivetrain cleanup as noted in the upper right about every 150 miles. Then add the lubricant as follows:
When applying the chain lube:
1. Don't spay with an aerosol lube or drop on the chain where it runs over the cassette (as you turn the crank). Just gets all over your cassette, derailleur and can contaminate your brakes (especially disc brakes).
2. In fact, don't use a spay. Rather drop it on the rollers of the chain as shown as you spin the crank backward. When the chain is covered, stop adding the lube but still spin the crank backward to work the lubricant into the sides of the rollers.
3. The next morning before my ride I'll wipe the excess lubricant on the bicycle chain plates and rollers. By the way, wiping off the surface of the rollers does not affect the wear of the cassette. Rather, it's chain wear of the rollers and pins that create a greater distance between rollers that will wear the cassette. If you leave the lubricant on the surface of the rollers, it will just pick up grime and dirt. I do a quick drivetrain clean (clean chain rings, clean pulley wheels, cassette and clean chain) and lubricate about every 150 miles on my road bike. Those times I ride in wet and muddy conditions, I'll do a more thorough cleaning with degreaser or other chain cleaner, soap and water, rinse and dry. After using degreaser/wash/dry, you may need several coats of lubricant.
This should become part of your routine road bike or mountain bike maintenance. - Sport
I don't rush lubricating. I lubricate each link separately.
I actually do the same although many do as lubricate as in the video. Lubricating one drop on each link takes more time but is the best way to go, won't splash on other components and saves lubricant. Regards, Tony
Me too! one small drop for one link:)
same here,1 drop per link.much cleaner and no waste of oil🤗
Remember, this is part of a bigger process. See our videos on 2 minute drivetrain cleanup:
czcams.com/video/I_5fNbDN3UA/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
and
czcams.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
Yes, that is what I do. One drop of lube on each link.
I was doing this as a 9 year old with 3 in 1 oil. My Dad showed me how to look after my bike. I'm 62 now and still playing with bikes.
Are you still using 3 in 1 oil? 3 in 1 oil was originally made as a chain lubricant. Recent studies show it is in the middle of the large pack of chain lubricants. What we didn't do as 9 year old's was to wipe of the excess so it doesn't pick up more grime and grit from the road which actually increase chain wear. But there was a lot we didn't know to do when we were kids. After 3 or 4 years or when we out grew what we had, we threw the bike to the side of the driveway to rust away. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speedTony, if you had 3 in 1 oil at home. Would you use it on the bicycle for your new chain on basic level old school MTB for urban use. Or would you really prefer to go to the store and get Finish Line Wet lube? 🤔 Cheers! JB
I think that there are better chain lubricants availably then the regular 3 in 1 oil. But that's my personal opinion. As to use of a wet or dry lubricant, depends on the weather/road conditions. @@JohnnyB43
@@tony10speed OK, I´ll go for a specialized oil then with a decent review and not too high a price. And maybe I will try using wax when summer comes. Thanks! 👍🙂
Thank you for your videos sir!!! Today I cleaned my bike chain for the first time. Not perfect, but at least I know how to do this in the future
Thanks Tony, always look forward to your words of wisdom...
Your welcome. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Cheers Tony. Simple, direct, clear communicative demos that are easy and quick to understand. Watched your video on pedal clicking...solved my problem immediately. Thankyou. .....Safe Riding from UK. 👍🚴🏻♂️
Thank you and safe riding from the US.
Just bought a Trek FX2 with an XXL frame, and it’s been a few years since I applied lubricant to a chain. So thanks for this video, because you get some things I didn’t even think about.
Thanks, uncle Tony! 🚴💨
You're welcome. Visit our CZcams home site at czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you very much for showing the proper way to lube the chain on a new bicycle or old one. It really helped and I wasn't quite sure whether you should wipe off the excess oil the next day or not. So that answered a big question for me. Thank you.
To make less mess, you can drop the lubricant on each link as you turn the crank. A little more time consuming but works well. Be sure to leave the lubricant over night to let the solvent evaporate before you wipe the chain to remove the excess. Glad the video was helpful. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I'm happy to know that this is exactly the way I oil bike chains. I even use these same Finish Line Dry and Wet Lubricants. Thanks!
You're welcome. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you for providing such a concise video. No wonder you're the first result when searching for how to lubricate bike chain!
Thank you. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you very much, Mr. Tony! This is very helpful for begginer cyclist like me. Please stay safe and have a great day! 🌻
Glad you find it useful. Our aim is to make videos for all level cyclist. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
yes, i am not a beginning cyclist - but i have a new bike which is designed in such a way i would not dare take anything apart - that - and every time i want to go to the shop ANOTHER LOCKDOWN FOR 2 MONTHS. so i have gone close to two years with out a professional tuneup. I ride all year around - my shop people sold me wet lube and dry lube - and so that is what i use. Recently i lost one of my lubes and used a different kind- WHAT A CRAZY MESS - i was actually worried it would have messed up my bike- got home -took degreaser to everything so that i could start from scratch. Nice to see that you do this the same way that i do. I cannot 'pick up or prop up' my bike - so - i will do a section of the chain, then get my husband to lift the back end - and we turn it and do again. Cheers . it's nice to know i actually feel like i am doing something right.
@@333Eriana Some one wrote in and said: "if I watch a video and don't learn something new, that must mean I'm doing it right." As you work with your bike, do the simple things first and the more you'll learn. Much of what I learned as a kid was watching the shop mechanics in the store doing their thing. It was fun, but I knew when I "didn't know" and would let the mechanic do their thing. With time and practice (especially fixing other peoples bikes), I expanded my horizons.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Wear hellmet Dear 😊
Like the dad I never had :)
Thank you for explaining this to all of us. It's helped me learn the little, important thing that is chain oiling. I didn't even know there were different types of chain lube.
Here's a guide on chain lubricants you may find useful:
www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/chain-lubes/
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
same here bud :)
Thanks for the informative video, Tony. After putting it off for several weeks, I finally went ahead and cleaned my chain (using a dedicated chain cleaner), and cassette and derailer wheels (using a brush and paper towels) and was surprised how dirty the whole powertrain had gotten after about a month's worth of usage since the last full service I had at the local bike shop. I then applied dry lube onto the chain as per the video instructions (I only bike on dry days), cleaning off the excess the following day, and wow did it make a difference in the ride quality. The ride was a lot smoother than before and my Apple watch reported that I actually travelled slightly quicker on this bike ride than the past few days.
Great. It pays to keep things clean and lubricated. You may be interested in 2 other videos we have on 2-minute quick drivetrain cleanup:
czcams.com/video/I_5fNbDN3UA/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
and
czcams.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
Give this a 10/10👍🏽 Everything is still clean after 4 light rides, using this method. Going to try this “each link lubricate” method next. Thanks Tony
Applying one drop to each link takes a minute or so but there is less waste and less chance of getting lubricant on the rim (rim brakes) or rotor (disc brakes). What I do, myself, is start at my master link (or one can mark the start point with a permanent marker), place a drop of lubricant on each pin/roller once around to the start point, pedal the bike backward by hand to work the lubricant in, let it sit for a few hours or overnight. Then wipe the excess lubricant off the chain with an old t-shirt. Regards and let me know how things work out, Tony
Brief, but spectacular, as always. Thank you Tony!
Thanks. That's our aim. Safe cycling.
Thank you very much for an informative video Tony, especially the advise to leaving it overnight. Greetings from Denmark
Some people like to lubricate the chain by placing one drop on each roller/pin once around to save lubricate. Be sure to let the solvent dry for several hours or overnight if possible before wiping of the excess. Regards from the USA, Tony
I hadn't considered letting it stand overnight. Makes sense. I'll give that a try. Thanks for posting!
Letting it stand allows most of the solvent to evaporate as the Teflon particles pernitrate into and the rollers and pin. Regards, Tony
Good tips...that's exactly how I lube my chain, been doing it that way for many years.
Some suggest placing the lubricant drop by drop on each chain ring at the rollers and pins. Then turning the crank to work it in. Leave it overnight and wipe off the excess. A little more time consuming and is a personal choice.
Keep up the good work. Regards, Tony
Sometimes I do it that way when I feel ambitious, but never noticed any difference in performance. Your right it's a personal choice.
I really appreciate the format of this video. You stated the purpose of the video before anything else.
Thank you. That's our aim. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Nice video. Greatings from Serbia, Europe.
Thanks. Also see our 2 companion videos:
czcams.com/video/I_5fNbDN3UA/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
and
czcams.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed 👍👍👍👍👍
Good tip on applying a slightly heavier coat if you've done a full degrease, rather than a 'quick clean'.
Thanks George.
Thanks Tony, well explained how to do. I learned the good way
Glad it helped. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
thanks I learn something about leaving it overnight.
Few videos seem to mention this critical fact. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Excellent video. Very much appreciated. Thanks
Glad it helped. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Tony, nice write up. I've used both products in the past with good success. I switched to wax at the end of last year and I'm sold! Getting the drivetrain clean enough to switch to wax is a bit of a pain (complete and total degrease!) but results are worth it. Entire driveline is soo much cleaner. Very easy to rewax once you've gone through the initial cleaning / waxing. My mountain bike will get the treatment next.
How do you remove the residual wax and grime before you re-wax you chain?
@@tony10speed you don't, you just rewax. Any wax still on the chain from before will melt and become one with the wax in the pot. The dirt (what little there is) will also come off. Eventually the wax in the pot will become too dirty, at which point you bin it and start a new batch of wax.
Having been waxing for over year now and I can honestly say it has saved me a huge amount of time and effort in not having to clean the drive train. I keep multiple chains and rewax 2 or 3 at once, each waxed chain lasts about 400km. Swapping to a new chain is a 2 minute job.
@@supnongl I appreciate the info and I'm sure my viewers do also. Last question: Do you use a re-usable master link or just "break" the chain with a chain tool?
@@tony10speed I use the wipperman connex quick links. No tools required, even pliers are unnecessary. They're expensive but very strong
There is a fantastic guide on waxing here
zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wax-instructions/
With more indepth info here
zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/waxing-how-to-zen-master-guide-v4.pdf
Well done mate! This kind of vídeo helps a Lot...
Greetings from Brazil!
Thank you and greetings from the USA. Tony
You can tell he's a decent bike mechanic - he fit's his tyres to the writing ( on the tyre ) is at the same place as the valve on the inner tube, so when he gets a puncture it makes it easier to find the thorn/glass shard in the tyre.
Good observation. You obviously know how to work on bikes yourself. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Hey Tony, good video, well explained. Greetings from Uruguay.
Thanks and regards from the US, Tony
This was very gratifying to watch. I have never seen this video, or any other explaining how to lube a chain, but I use the same two lubricants and apply it exactly the same way. I even let it dry overnight and wipe off the excess the next day. I never realized I have been doing it right all these years. Thanks Tony, I think I should go ahead and subscribe.
Sounds like you're doing a great job. We hope to bring you more videos that will be useful to all levels of cyclist. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
The first time I used White Lightning it just came onto the market. Halfway through a 3 hour MTB ride it started raining. I turned around to come back. My bike got so caked with mud I had to stop a few times to dig it out of the rear triangle area. BUT.....My chain looked brand spanking new. Not a drop of mud on it. White Lightning RULES!
I use to use White Lightening and it is still a good product. A key to use is wiping down the chain before re-lubrication or the wax like substance builds up on the chain, cassette, and pulley wheel making quite a mess. It does work well in the rain or muck. All a matter of preference. Thanks for your input.
Regards, Tony
i use finish line as well as boeshield t 9,,,mostly in the winter in minnesota where they salt the roads..i also lube the cassette ...it pays to take time doing this...been riding for 62 years now
Thanks Davie. Keep on riding and be safe, Tony
Thank you very much Mr. Tony I just finished lubing my chain on my bike. I have 116 rolling pins, I lube each pin one at a time, then peddled counter clockwise to let penetrate in the grooves, now I’m letting my bike set for 2 hours before I go out on a ride. Please feel free to text me back. Enjoy your day.
Don't forget to wipe off the excess lubricant from the surface of the chain. Regards and safe riding, Tony
@@tony10speed OK Thanks for reminding me.
I didnt know that the chain stretching was the main cause of cassette wear, thanks for the vid, very good!
Thanks. See our video on cassette wear (if you haven't seen it already):
czcams.com/video/g5uqTNmikro/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I use Squirt Wax, have been for over two years, winter and summer. I put a drop on each roller in the chain, starting at the quick link, as Tony did.
After all the rollers are done, a couple of revolutions of the pedals to spread the wax around the rollers, agains, as Tony did in his demo.
Done !
How long does the Squirt Wax last? Do you have to clean off the residual wax before re-lubrication? Thanks, Tony
@@tony10speed Typically 100-150km for clean road riding. I just wipe the chain with a dry cloth to clean it and then apply one drop to each roller. Turn cranks and then wipe again. This cleans and lubricates in one step. Right before a long ride I might reapply a small amount, but typically I just wipe and reapply every 100 km. I never clean my chain with solvents because it never needs it. Squirt will flake off a bit (especially if too much is applied) so you should put a doormat under the chain when storing inside the house.
@@bengt_axle Thanks for your feedback. Helps keep us informed. Regards, Tony
I'm a fan of Fenwick's professional chain lube. Runs very smooth and doesn't attract dirt. One application lasts about 200 miles and will survive a shower but not a long wet ride.
Thanks for the info. Will have to give it a try. Regards, Tony
Thank you TM. Love your work mate. You wear the leaders yellow jersey.. 👍👊
Thanks for the compliment. Cheers and safe cycling, Tony
Great video, straight to the point. Thanks.
You're Welcome. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Realy enjoy ur videos, short and to the point
Thank you. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you, Im new to cycling and your video has helped me understand how to lube a chain!
Your welcome. Note that some cyclist suggest dropping lubricant on each roller (starting at the master link), one by one until completed once around. Once done, turn the crank backward about 20 rotations to work the lubricant in. Let it sit a bit and then wipe off the excess. This is more time consuming but saves lubricant and there is even less splashing. I actually use this drop by drop on the rollers method myself although many do as in the video.
Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed thanks for the additional info!
Merci pour la vidéo Mr Tony Marchand ! 👍🇧🇪
Je t'en prie. Cordialement et en toute sécurité à vélo, Tony
Good video Tony. I act in a different way: after cleaning the chain and the cassette with a brush, I spray some wd40 on a toothbrush. Then I pass the toothbrush soaked with wd40 on the cassette and then, with a few back turns of the pedal, I pass the toothbrush on the chain. By so doing I don’t need to remove the lubricant in excess with a rag at the end of the process.
You hit a greatly debated issue. WD-40 is a penetrant, degreaser and anti-corrosive leaving a small thin film of oil which wears off very quickly. WD-40 Bike has a different chemical, but from my research, has the same effect. Some use WD-40 as a cleaner and lubricant and swear by it while others say to wash the chain after use of WD-40. I also feel that you should wash your chain after use of WD-40 in that most degreasers will degrade subsequent lubricants you apply to the chain. The following highlights the debate:
bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14372/can-i-use-wd-40-on-my-bike/14377#14377
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed
I use wd40 as a degreaser/cleaner by gently pressing the button on the can and let it gently foam on the chain without spatter. I keep a shop rag under the chain to catch any drips and backspin it through the rag a few times when complete. After the cleaning is done I’ll let it dry overnight, then hit each link with a drop of pro gold.
I tend to get around 5000 miles on a chain on my road bike lubing every 200-300 miles and using the wd-40 as a cleaner every other or 3rd lube.
Great video. I also use the master link as my start/stop point.
Great video Tony.
You're Welcome. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Haven’t ridden my road bike much lately but I recall using a spray Teflon product after having thoroughly cleaned the bicycle chain. Before then, i use to thoroughly clean and then do a waxing method which was time consuming.
Waxing is very popular in wet climates but does take time. I don't use a spay product since it's more difficult to control where the spay goes. You want to keep lubricant away from rim (if you have rim brakes) and away from disc brakes and pad. Sprays are just too messy. There are a number of products on the market that contain Teflon varying from Finish Line Dry, White Lightening , Squirt and more that come in dropper form as shown in the video. I like the Finish Line but which you choose is a matter of personal preference. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed - BTW, with the bike either upside down or on a bike stand, when using the Teflon spray I would be holding a rag underneath the chain to trap and wipe the excess spry onto the links, then afterwards allow the chain to air dry.
Agreed, one doesn’t want overspray onto the rims braking surface.
@@russjohnson5443 Thanks Russ and get out and enjoy the beautiful weather, Tony
Great video! We do many things the same way. I've used DuMonde Tech for a long time -- fantastic product! Some habits that I've developed while lubing chain:
- Shift to big ring and small cog before lubing to get chain farthest away from rim brake surface
- Clean rims with iso alcohol on paper towel in case anything splattered while applying. As a result, my pads and rims have lasted for eons.
- Use whatever iso is left over on paper towel to clean tar & junk off of tire, and inspect tire cuts for glass bits etc. and pick them out
Thanks for the tip. Do you allow the DuMonde to dry (for several hours or overnight) before wiping off the excess? How often do you have to reapply? Do you need to clean the chain each time before re-application? These answers would be very helpful to our viewers?
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed I've never let chain lube sit&soak overnight - that's a new idea I just got from you! My typical 2x/week ride is 40mi/2500ft, and my ritual is to clean & lube (sparingly) before every ride. There are so many heated debates on if/how to properly clean chains, with no one-size-fits-all correct answer. What works best for my riding environment and behavior is to wipe down the chain side-plates, pulleys, chainrings really well. I give the cassette a good flossing every few rides or so. I apply lube atop the inside rollers, hoping gravity carries some grit away in any excess lube that drips to the floor towel. I don't touch the rollers or spend time trying to deep-clean my chain with contraptions, ultrasonic tubs, etc. I replace my chain at 0.5% wear (~2 seasons) and get good drivetrain performance and durability. Hey - right or wrong, it works for me ;-)
I should have mentioned that cleaning rims/pads is not just for splattered lube, but removes any other abrasive dust/grit/gunk that collects there.
Also re: Dumonde lube, I've haven't tried their new Pro X lube. I've always used their "classic original" stuff.
@@chuckb4375 You are right, no one-size-fits-all. Thanks for your feedback and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed One thing that hasn’t been discussed is how to prevent lube (particularly Teflon products) from getting onto the shop floor, creating a hazardous slick area around training stand. I’ve been spreading a towel or sheet to catch the drips. Do you have another method?
@@chuckb4375 I use an old T-shirt for the same purpose: to catch any drips of lubricant.
well spoken, specific and explanation............. good video.
Thank you. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I can recommend Joe's Eco Nano Dry, waxy lubricant with teflon and nano particles. Last around 300km, silent and don't attract too much gunk. Cheers!
Thanks for the info. When you apply Joe's, do you let it cure and take it for a ride or do you wipe off the superficial excess after it cures. For our viewers, here's a review from bikeradar:
www.bikeradar.com/reviews/maintenance/oils-and-lubricants/chain-lubricant/joes-no-flats-road-dry-nano-lube-review/
Regards, Tony
You take a one look at this guy, and you know he is the expert
Thank you YB. We try our best. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks Tony, This Helps.
I am Bharadwaj from India
You're Welcome Bharadwaj. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Great video. Super helpful. Thank you
You're Welcome. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Simple and adequate for the purpose
Great Tony..God bless you sir
Glad it was helpful. Regards, Tony
Thanks for the advice!
One note: If you have the time, place one drop on each link as you go around until you reach your start point (I mark the point with an indelible marker of use the master link as the start point). This decreases any "splashing" and save lubricant.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I cut up an old T-shirt and wet it with synthetic motor oil. I pour oil onto the chain just as you do and I wipe the chain with the wet rag. It works wonders and no longer skips, clangs and runs rough. My shifts are spot-on now.
I've been told that synthetic motor oil is very viscous and does not penetrate well into the chain. It also picks up a lot of grime from the road unless you wipe down the chain very thoroughly with a dry cloth. Has any of this been a problem for you? Appreciate any feedback you can give us. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed The synthetic motor oil I use is the Walmart brand. I use a liberal amount of oil and make sure that the oil gets into the rollers and the links are well coated. I wipe off the dirt and the excess oil with an old t-shirt. I adjusted the derailleurs and my chain runs silky smooth. Before doing this, I thought I needed a new chain, but now I ride my bike everyday with no trouble at all. Once every two months is enough for me and, surprisingly, it doesn't pick up a lot of dirt. 🤗
I have used for years exactly the same lubricants on my Dura-Ace chain as you use and never had any issues. I do change my chain every spring.
I have tried a variety of chain lubricants over the years, but keep coming back to Finish Line. Cleans up well and goes on easily. Even after a year (5000-7000 miles), with attention to cleaning and lubrication, my chain shows little wear. Although, like you, I replace it each year as preventive maintenance. Regards and safe cycling. Tony
@@tony10speed I thank you for your reply. I started using Finish Line, because an advertising decal stuck to a frame I bought years ago recommended it. I decided to give it a try and have kept using it ever since.
Feels good knowing I'm doing it right
Excellent. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks, excellent explanation !
You're welcome. Also visit our CZcams home site at czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
It helps a lot❤️
Glad it was useful. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I always use Morgan Blue touring. It persists extremely well and it penetrates quickly. It isn't suitable for racing. But if you ride long distances in any weather it simply stays INSIDE the links where it is needed rather than splattering from the outside. The outside of the rollers can look clean, dry and shiny. That is a good thing because it doesn't pick up dirt. It is those two inside surfaces where you need it. So the combination of the penetrating oil and the heavy greasy one achieves this brilliantly. I am much more particular about oiling though. Much slower than this. ONE drop on the joint where the oil works down both sides to lubricate both the pin and the roller. The exact point is vital if you want to lubricate both wearing surfaces of the chain. Just one link at a time. Counting the links very carefully. Always on the upper side of the lower run of chain ( the inside as it passes over the sprockets). If all goes well there should be no visible oil on the chain by the time you have made one complete cycle. It should already be inside where it serves a useful purpose. With this oil and this method the system is splatter free almost as soon as I have finished. Certainly by the time I have put my helmet and gloves on I can ride the bike with no trace of oil splatter. You can hear that it is properly oiled by the silence of the chain. I live on dirt roads but with cleaning and oiling I expect the chain to last some 30000km or about 2 years of riding.
I have not used Morgan Blue myself, but I am amazed that you can get 30,000 km out of a single chain! Here is a review of the product for our viewers:
road.cc/content/review/248023-morgan-blue-race-oil-road
Thanks for sharing, Tony
I use 3 in 1 - certainly seems much better than any bicycle specific lube - used it on RAB 2019 🚴♂️👍👌
3 in 1 oil was originally made as a lubricant for bicycle chains. When you look at chain specific lubricants, it ranks in the middle of the bunch. Here's an interesting article on 3 in 1:
pedalchile.com/blog/3-in-1-chain
Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed thank you - that is really interesting :-)
thanks Tony, that's helpful.
Some suggest dropping lubricant on each roller one at a time, once around. More time consuming but saves lubricant with less mess. But only if your obsessive compulsive (like me). Also, visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Good man. Thanks for advice
You're Welcome. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
In industrial machinery (and old Raleighs) chain drives are fully encased and are either oil bath or oil irrigation lubricated. That’s ideal, but not practical for a road bike.
I like to apply lube using a small “acid” or “flux” brush. Even doing it this way, don’t back pedal too fast or you will get spatter on your rim. Also, put something down to protect your floor if you rent!
The amount oil needed to be effective is quite small. I have had success wiping off as much as possible right after applying. Just give it overnight to dry before riding to let the solvent evaporate.
Thanks for you input and ideas. I like your idea of using the "flux" brush for application and you're right that only a small amount of lubricant is needed. I've tried wiping off the excess the lubricant right after application but lately have allowed it to sit overnight to allow lubricant penetration before wiping off the excess. It's a matter of personal preference. Either way, keeping your drivetrain clean and lubricated has certainly extended the life span of the chain and components as well as improved performance.
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Hi Tony hope you keep well thank you learned how to lube the chain❤Very good chanel as well 😊
Thank you. Our aim is to keep it simple and to the point for those of you who want to understand how bicycles work and what we can do to improve their performance. Regards, Tony
Great tips from sifu!
Thank you. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Glad I found your channel
Thanks for watching. Hope to bring you more good videos. Visit our site at tony10speed.net
Regards, Tony
This is spot- on!
My usual chain lube is a 1:5 mix of 90 weight gear oil and mineral spirits. It penetrates the rollers and dries well. The chain seems quieter than with other lubes, too, which benefits the “engine control module”.
This mix cleans the chain effectively, too. Wipe off as much as you can and see all the black stuff coming off. The little jar I use to hold the lube gets darkly clouded as I dip my brush. You might think that’s dirt, but no! I keep a magnet in the jar and within a few hours the lube is clear again and all the stuff is clinging to the magnet. That’s metal wear, microscopic amounts, but it comes from the chain! MTB would of course have some actual dirt, as would chains that had excess oil for dirt to cling to.
The best lube is not worth paying for if you don’t use it often enough to keep things clean. If you keep things clean and lubed frequently, you don’t need super fancy lube. Oil really does work. Solvent makes it easier to apply it where you need it.
Well said. I'm interested in your 1:5 mix of 90 weight gear oil and mineral spirits. Do you clean the chain or wipe it down before applying the mixture? Does it pick up much grime and grit from the road when used? How often do you need to re-lubricate the chain? You said that the metal wear sticks to the magnet. Does the road grime and grit settle to the bottom so you can re-use the mixture? We can all learn from your experience. Thanks and regards, Tony
Tony Marchand
Hi, Tony.
Thanks for your kind remarks.
As you do, I give my road bike a quick once over and chain lube about every three rides. The lube lasts longer than that, I can go a long way before I get any squeaking or just that louder chain/sprocket mesh sound. Measuring the chain, I get at least 1500 miles before I see much wear.
Because I do it frequently, I just do the cleaning and lube in one step. I brush the stuff on, backpedal about 10 seconds, then wipe off as much as I can. I let it dry overnight before riding.
There is a tiny amount of oil that shows between the plates, and there must be some on the outer surfaces, but the chain never looks gunky. I think any chain would look gunky, regardless of what lube is used if the excess were not removed. In my case, I can usually grab the chain with my hand and not get it horribly dirty.
The residue in my little jar is almost entirely ferrous material that finds its way to the magnet. The dirt settles on the bottom, but there is very little.
Because the mix clears so well, I reuse it all the time. I even rinse my application brush in it after applying (really clouds it up).
I don’t usually clean off the jockey and tension wheels, so oil does accumulate there and it attracts dirt, so I do have to scrape it off occasionally. Could avoid this if I bothered to wipe them every time...
The cleanest lube I ever used was NAPA Auto Parts Dripless Oil, which is another solvent based product. Cheaper than most bike lubes, cleans better than my mix, and you can handle the chain without messing your hands even after 100 miles. Doesn’t last as long, though.
Gear oil is by far the best bike chain lube. I buy a brand called chain L which has extreme pressure stabilizers added so it can last over 1200 miles per application.
@@___Bebo___
I agree. It’s made for gear teeth, so it has extreme pressure additives. I think that, and its viscosity make the chain so quiet when you use the stuff.
My current chain is a basic SRAM with about 3,000 miles on it, and I have yet to see measurable wear. I measure it frequently because I find it hard to believe!
@@trackie1957 I hit my chain with the chain brush every 300 miles for ten seconds good as new. I get more life with the gear oil cause your rollers never go dry.
Good stuff Tony...thanks.
Thank you. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I’ve used wax and Squirt , and I like finish line dry the best. The rollers turn easier and more smoothly then with Squirt which also attracts more road detritus .
I've noticed the same. Thanks for your input. Regards, Tony
I used both. Finish Line is a great product. That being said, apply liberal amounts of Squirt Lube and let dry over night. Before applying, do not skip Tony's Turpentine cleaning procedure and remove old wax from the derailleur and cassette cogs and chainrings. There is no need to wipe off excess in the morning, and the added bonus is the solvent, water, which is probably less hazardous than Finish Line solvent and less smelly as well.
@@kottelkannim4919 Thanks for the tip, Tony
I'd add a step to this . . . wipe the chain BEFORE applying the lube to remove whatever gunk you can (and wipe it after as shown in the video). It might be helpful for viewers to know that it's the chain parts you don't see that you're lubricating . . . oil on anything you can see doesn't add to performance but does add to picking up dirt.
Yes, this is only one part of the process. See our videos on 2 minute drivetrain cleanup:
czcams.com/video/I_5fNbDN3UA/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
and
czcams.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
That is a good way to think of oiling.
Thank you sir! Helpful!
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czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
simple explanation thank you
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czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I like to use white lightning it works really well.
How often do you have to apply it and do you need to clean the chain before each application?
Thanks Tony, much appreciated!
Your welcome. Glad to help. Regards, Tony
Very informative!
Thank you. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I lube in much the same way, but I like to remove the wheel and insert a chainkeeper/roller (Park, Pedro's, homemade, etc.) so I don't have to worry about spilling/spraying lube all over the cassette or the rim/braking surface. Then, while the chain is drying, I can give the cassette a good cleaning, too.
Good idea. Thanks for the tip. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I spray wd40 on it. Never thought much about the chain. Now I know. Thanks for your video.
WD-40 is a water displacement product with a tiny amount of lubricant - which isn't enough to lubricate the chain. I, myself, stick with a specific chain lubricant of which there are many. Ask a hundred people and each will have there favorite. I ride in dry conditions and prefer Finish Line Dry, but that's just me.
Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I agree, Well done ,
Glad it was of help. Regards, Tony
I used EP80 (car gearbox oil) which is way cheaper than bike-targeted products and works incredibly well. It's also great against water: my bike lives outside in the street all year and I only have to oil it every 3 or 4 weeks, which is typically 250-300 miles. I never clean the chain (so it is hideously dirty admittedly) and the last one I checked for distance did about 7000 miles. All urban cycling, generally quite fast. Mind you, I'm running with a single gear. You wouldn't get 7000 miles with a derailleur in there.
No problems with rust on the chain or other parts of the bike? I'm impressed. Keep cycling and be safe, Tony
I use squirt wax and it’s absolutely brilliant stuff 🙌
Thanks for the input. Squirt wax is preferred by some. The chain needs to be perfectly clean prior to use. One needs to use sufficient amounts to coat the chain and preferable let it sit overnight before your next ride. How many miles before you need to re-apply the Squirt? Do you clean the chain before re-applying the Squirt?
Here is one of several reviews I came across:
advntr.cc/review-squirt-dry-chain-lube/
Anything to add? Regards, Tony
I use squirt wax too for my mountainbike. Every 150 km i re-apply the wax. Im on my second chain and my cassette has arround 2000km. Because of the wax dirt and grit doesn't stick to my chain and my cassette won't wear that fast. I guess i will do arround 4000 km with my cassette.
@@kebab1535 Thanks for the info Kebab. Regards, Tony
I clean the chain on the bike then take the chain off and soak in a tray of oil for an hour. Gives time for all the pins to soak in. Then chain is hung up overnight, wiped down in the morn and put on bike. Lovely smooth action for a good few km.
Sounds like a lot of work. Do you use re-usable master links (quick links)? What kind of oil do you let it soak in?
@@tony10speed I use multigrade engine oil. Its less work than cleaning and lubing it on bike. Yes quick link makes it real simple, and once its hung up to release the excess oil a wipe with paper is all thats needed. The tray is a food type aluminium one and if the chain is cleaned before immersion u can reuse oil bath quite a bit.
This was a great time to use the tinted oil using the correct method.
Thanks. Will put that on another video for completion. Regards, Tony
Thanks Tony - I tend to use a wet lube all year round (Muc Off or Fenwicks) but use a much lighter coat in the summer. I find it just gets absorbed and lasts longer than any dry or wax lubes.
Do you wipe off any external lube after applying before the ride?
@@tony10speed yes with a kitchen towel - always wipe excess lube off jockeys cassette and chain plates after a long ride and usually get 400KM per application!
@@Bluesman2509 Thanks for the helpful tips. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
thanks a lot , very helpful :)
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks for the great videos!! Do you also lube the derailleur rollers and moving hinge points with a separate lube?
You can (if you're not using a wax base lubricant). I like a light lubricant such as Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant. See:
czcams.com/video/GZYcJcWiF2U/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Good advice
Keep lubricant from getting all over the cassette, derailleur and especially disc brake where it can ruin the brake pads and decrease braking. Regards, Tony
that's actually a messy way .. ha ! but it works .. i gues the older you get time is precious.
How you doin Sir. Fight On !
You are actually correct. The best way is to place a drop on each link/roller one at a time until the chain is lubricated. Then let it sit and wipe off the excess before the ride. But as you point out, most cyclist don't want to spend the time (even the younger cyclist)!
Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks Tony!
Some advocate placing the lubricant drop by drop in each roller & pin to save lubricant and not be as messy. That's the way I lubricate my chain, but it's more time consuming and most lubricate as in the video. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
@@tony10speed I don't mind the mess and it saves me time! Thx Tony
Interesting visual moment at 1:12, the black/yellow/black pattern in the overlapping cassette gears is then mimicked by the yellow/black/yellow overlapping figures in the newspaper illustration.
Interesting observation. Not intentional. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I thought the crimped and spot welded chain and seat stays to the dropouts were classic.
Good one!
Note: Some suggest dropping lubricant drop by drop on each link starting at the master link and moving the chain around until you've finish lubricating each link. This is more efficient, less likely to splatter lubricant around but takes more time. I prefer the link by link approach myself but many cyclist don't want to take the time or effort. It's personal choice. Remember, this is part of a bigger approach of drivetrain cleanup as expressed in our videos below:
czcams.com/video/I_5fNbDN3UA/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
czcams.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
Well done.
Thank you. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Nice video, thanks :)
You're welcome. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
🖌I've recently started using a painting brush to apply the chain oil sparingly and evenly. Apply a few drops of oil to the brush and touch the running chain, also back and forth.
How do you keep it from splattering on other drive train components and do you think this is better then applying chain lubricant one drop at a time to each roller/pin and working the chain backward? Would be interested in your thoughts on this. Thanks, Tony
@@tony10speed Of course you shouldn't handle the brush like Jackson Polock, better like Claude Monet. I use a small, stiff flat painting brush and drip a minimum of oil onto it and apply it thinly on the surface of the chain, especially inside towards the rollers and pins, running the chain under the brush, with the brush also backwards, to distribute oil evenly everywhere. After letting it soak in for a while, I rub the outside of the chain briefly with a paper towel the next day.
I see the advantage of the brush as being quick, clean and requiring only a small amount of the expensive chain oil. I store the oily brush in a suitable plastic box until the next use, it could also be a plastic bag.
@@Tag-Traeumer Thanks for the further explanation. Nice tip and will give it a try. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Thank you very much, also with best regards. (Of course I also wipe the chain clean before painting with oil.)
Nice one Subscribed Please keep it comin
You're Welcome. Also visit our CZcams home site at:
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Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Tony why you stop vlogging?
It’s the same as lubricating a firearm. It’s a microscopic film of oil that does the job not a wet mess. I was taught by the American Honda race team to line a chain right before it pivots at the front sprocket so that the lube instantly gets worked into the link before it can drip off.
Good point. As opposed to the video, I now put the lubricate on drop by drop on each link to save lubricant and not make a mess. The idea of putting on the chain just before the pivot point on the chain ring is great tip. Thanks again and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you Sir
See our videos which also may be of help:
czcams.com/video/I_5fNbDN3UA/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
and
czcams.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
I've mainly used motor cycle engine oil no problems tried the chain spray lubricant which was to heavy. Even made mix copper slip chain saw main bearing grease, axcel gearbox oils engine oil worked ok for extreme wet condition .I personally miss the old reusable quick removal link off with chain into warm oil over night hang up dripping off ,back on used to have two chains
Sounds like the oil mixtures you use would pick up a lot of grit and grime from the road. Do you find this the case? P.S. KMC makes reusable master links (removable quick links) for your specific speed chain. You can remove and reuse the master link 5-6 times before you should replace it. You should alway replace the master link when you replace the chain, since it also wears. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed I only ride off road but your right about picking up dirt etc but I'm a nothing ventured, thanks for tip about links really like your video's thanks.
Thanks a lot Sirr 🙂
Glad to be of help. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
I have been a sawmill oiler for six years and bicycle tourist. I am not saying you are wrong just going to give what I know. It's impossible to lubricate the rollers with out taking out the pins. All of the steps we take on cleaning and making our chain feel so pretty and smooth is just removing fine dust and grits. Most bicyclist pay 8$ dollars for a 4oz bottle this is $350.oo A gallon. I have personal got better results from 3-N 1 lubricate oil manly because of the container and oil property. This is not the best for a chain. (There's no better chain lubricant then gear oil) I thank you for sharing your respect and knowledge this is mine. A bicycle hobby is to over priced just add up how much we pay for a bicycle tire weight and milage then go look at your car tires???
For every chain lubricant on the market, there is a dedicated following. Interestingly, 3-N-1 oil was originally produced as a bicycle lubricate and in testing, stands in the middle of the available lubricates on the market today, and is cheaper. Gear oil is a good lubricant but you really need to wipe off all the excess otherwise it picks up a lot of dirt and grime. I appreciate your input and do agree that so much of the bicycle industry is over priced. My goal on my CZcams channel is to repair the parts you have (without buying new over-priced parts) and to keep your bike in top running condition, no matter how old tit is. Thanks again and regards, Tony
Simple thing but grate to see what I've been doing wrong.
Also visit our CZcams home site at czcams.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Practical...thanks
Many feel that lubricating each link one by one is less messy and won't waste or over lubricate the chain. See comments below. It's a matter of time and personal preference. See comments below.
Also remember this is part of a bigger process of drivetrain cleaning and lubrication:
czcams.com/video/I_5fNbDN3UA/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
and
czcams.com/video/0CSUVMxyy3w/video.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand
Regards, Tony
I watched this video because it came up on my Que probably because I've been researching ebikes and I want to know everything about proper maintenance for such an expensive ride. My actual thoughts about this video are that I owned a cheap mountain bike from 1993 until it got sold in a garage sale after my divorce in 2016, I rode it often in the summer maybe put lube on it once a summer if that and never had an issue with the chain. Was I just lucky? I don't know. Be well. 👍😎
Depends on how much you road the bike and in what type of weather. For those of use who put in up to 200 miles a week in all kinds of weather, we clean and lubricate weekly. But less miles in dry conditions may not be a problem as you point out. Thanks for the information. Let me know how it goes with the Ebike hunt and which one you decide on. This is an area which is new to our shop and we're still learning. Regards, Tony