What Is Stand Development?

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  • čas přidán 22. 07. 2021
  • *Disclaimer*
    I didn’t realize when I was editing the video but the regular developed image is out of focus. So the sharpness comparison i made here is not a fair comparison!
    How to properly stand develop:
    Pre soak the film for 2 minutes prior to development
    Once you add the developer, use inversion agitation for the first minute.
    After that, place the tank in the tempered water bath for 30 minutes
    After 30 minutes give the tank one full tilt, then place back in the water bath for 30-60 more minutes. All together I did 60 min for this. Maybe could’ve gotten more shadow detail with a 90 min dev time.

Komentáře • 25

  • @jogrev
    @jogrev Před hodinou

    Excellent. Thank you for sharing!

  • @bowenisland100
    @bowenisland100 Před 6 měsíci +1

    I really appreciate your clear, "no nonsense" video style. Thank you.

  • @raulnava8282
    @raulnava8282 Před 2 lety +4

    I used stand development on films that I may not know the developing times, it works perfectly. Thank you for sharing!!!

    • @TheNegative
      @TheNegative  Před 2 lety

      Yeah it works pretty well for that! You’re welcome thanks for watching!

  • @millerviz
    @millerviz Před 2 lety +3

    I do a sort of hybrid "stand" development. I use Rodinal 1:100, I agitate normally for maybe five minutes, then move to two minute intervals and finally 3 minute intervals. Usually about 20 to 22 minutes is enough time with this scheme. You do see the sharpening effect and the speed increase with this method but you avoid issues with insufficient agitation in true stand development.

    • @TheNegative
      @TheNegative  Před 2 lety

      Stand developing is fun sometimes. I’d like to try it for landscapes.

  • @davidkachel
    @davidkachel Před 2 lety +21

    The bowl of fruit image on the right (normal development) is not less sharp because of stand development to the other negative, as you claim. It is simply out of focus because the camera or subject, or both, moved out of focus. You should try again and lock your camera, subject, and tripod down completely. What your refer to as a halo effect due to higher accutance is in fact the edge effect of Rodinal. And once again, the image on the right is out of focus, this time even more noticeably.

  • @Flying4Film
    @Flying4Film Před 2 lety +1

    I'm really enjoying your channel. Very clear and to the point as well as explaining things I've some times wondered about.

    • @TheNegative
      @TheNegative  Před 2 lety +1

      Thanks! Yeah trying to make a video for all those unanswered film questions.

  • @riswanc
    @riswanc Před 2 lety +1

    Love your videos, straight to the point and informative

  • @paulschmolke188
    @paulschmolke188 Před 2 lety

    Never had that much spare time when processing film but I appreciate the commentary and methodology. Good video.👍🏽👍🏽

    • @TheNegative
      @TheNegative  Před 2 lety +1

      Thanks for watching! It definitely is a bit odd to have that much free time while processing but I’ve gotten into audiobooks and it definitely helps catch up on the audiobooks haha

  • @rafaelfrontadogomez2745
    @rafaelfrontadogomez2745 Před 2 lety +1

    I shot a couple of 120 rolls few days ago wit low light and I am going to try it tomorrow to get the much of them!! I am quite exited!!

    • @TheNegative
      @TheNegative  Před 2 lety +1

      Can’t wait to hear how it turns out! I like stand for low light stuff. Definitely helps!

  • @alexegorov8774
    @alexegorov8774 Před 5 měsíci

    Going to use stand development for expired film, thanks for clear instructions👍🏻

  • @jacopotassinari
    @jacopotassinari Před 2 lety +2

    nice video, I will for sure try some stand development soon ^^

    • @TheNegative
      @TheNegative  Před 2 lety

      It gives a really unique look! It’s more distinct in 120 and 35mm. Enjoy!

  • @some_dego
    @some_dego Před 8 měsíci

    did you ever try push 1 or 2 stops with stand development method?

  • @areallyrealisticguyd4333
    @areallyrealisticguyd4333 Před 2 lety +2

    I try to avoid stand developing 35mm but 120 and 4x5 is amazing. Idk what it is with sprocket holes but they always seem to give my film streaks. On larger formats that's not really an issue plus you can notice the sharpness and less of the grain.

    • @TheNegative
      @TheNegative  Před 2 lety

      Yeah I’ve noticed that too! I don’t think it works as well on 35mm. Film is film of course but each format reacts a little differently and I think that’s an often overlooked quality.

    • @mynewcolour
      @mynewcolour Před rokem

      I do semi stand and get zero visible bromide drag. I agitate thoroughly initially, then once each half hour. Most dev times are 1 or 1.5 hrs.

    • @g-r-a-e-m-e-
      @g-r-a-e-m-e- Před 7 měsíci

      Yes, bromide drag (although there is no bromide in Rodinal) has been my problem with 35mm film. Not necessarily very bad in every case, but once you start looking for it, it is often there. But I could add more agitation into my routine, which might help.

  • @danferrel9612
    @danferrel9612 Před rokem

    How does this compare to the Zone System or BTZS?

  • @daledanowski9962
    @daledanowski9962 Před 4 měsíci

    i used rodinal way back in the 1980 s