Testing a Bad Honeywell General Purpose Relay and Taking Apart to See the Burn Marks!
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- čas přidán 29. 04. 2016
- In this video, I test a Broken Honeywell General Purpose Relay to find the contacts inside burnt up. After testing with a 24v transformer and a multimeter, I open it up to show you what happens when too much amperage runs through one of these!
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Supervision is needed by a licensed HVAC Tech before doing this as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
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For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Here is the link for the Honeywell 24v General Purpose Relay amzn.to/2d7f8rI
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Here is the link to the Fieldpiece SDMN6 Dual Pressure Testing Manometer with Pump-amzn.to/2jyK5Ka
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Another great video. Thank you!
Thank you very much!
Nice transformer tester. Great idea
Isn't that nice, yeah, thanks!
Great video! I purchased an extra transformer for testing HVAC 24v type relays (fan, auxiliary heat, etc.). Of course, more often than not these transformers are wired to 240v in the unit, however, I figured that while out of the unit I could get by using a 120v transformer provided the output is the same. In this case it's: 24VAC, 40VA (ELK-TRG2440 Auto-Resetting Transformer). It's a plug in unit. Would this be sufficient for occasional intermittent testing of removed 24v relays? Any advice you could provide would be most appreciated. Thank you.
Yeah sure, instead, you could use a multi tap transformer 120, 208, 240 such as this one in the video and you could wire it in as needed or just use the 120v with a plug on the end for recepticles. The transformer is also linked in the description section under the video, thanks- - czcams.com/video/aYmxMn_KWZY/video.html
super!!!
Many many tHanks.
I am testing my 24V transformer / relay from a McClain boiler. I replaced the part about a month ago because the system would call for heat and the transformer/relay would just click non stop. Although the part lasted over 3 years last time, this time I am surprised it only lasted a month.
When I test the relay (set at 200 ohms), it shows resistance for the lower terminals (14.3). Terminals 1 and 3 does not show any resistance (meter reading does not move). Terminals 4 and 6 has a resistance (1.5). I assume this means terminals 4 and 6 are contacting each other. In your video, with no power, 4 and 6 should have zero resistance.
Again, I am surprised this part failed in a month. Do you think something is overloading the 50/60 HZ relay?
I got this relay on my furnace what exactly does it do?does it tell the blower motor when to turn on?
It is called a general purpose relay and can be used for many different things depending on the amp ratings of the particular relay. They used to be used in the fan control relay before control boards where used as well, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel ..can this relay be the reason why my a/c take a while to turn on,4 or 5 degrees difference from set temp
Is there a way to call you with questions and pay you for your time?
I thought checking resistance with power on was a bad thing.... possibly causing a short?
I was checking the resistance across the no powered set of contacts. That is the only way to test the contacts. Never test resistance of a live contact, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel thank you
This has nothing to do with relays but i was hoping i could get your opinion. I had a service call for no heat on a packaged carrier unit with an economiser at a church. I found a limit switch near the heat exchanger tripped. Gave it time to cool down, reset and turned it back on. Everything seemed to be running as usual but i only had a temp rise of 30 degrees at most. Checked blower motor and adjusted belt to get more speed, gas pressure is 3.5, removed filters and checked for any obstruction but i still couldnt get a higher temp rise. I did a visual inspection of the heat exchanger and found no obvious signs of a problem. I suspect that its a clogged heat exchanger and im returning to do a combustion analysis and CO detection. I was just wondering if you had any insight on what more i could have done? Thank you so much for your time and i would love to donate to your patron if you could share the url to your page please.
So if you increased the temp rise then that switch would be more likely to trip. Not sure what kind of unit it is but if the economizer was slightly open and you took return temp upstream of it and then another temp on the supply it would fool you into thinking it was only a 30 degree temp rise when it actually is near the normal 50 degree temp rise but just with cold air mixed into the return. If a blower speed is too fast, the temp rise can be too small if it is not sucking air through the economizer. Usually that sensor trips when there is a clogged filter or blower problem which you took care of. Sometimes those switches go bad over time too and trip at a lower temp. It is best to do the other tests and let me know how you make out and what your thinking, thanks and the url is - patreon.com/acservicetech
@@acservicetechchannel its a 48HJE-014 carrier if that rings a bell. I honestly dont have much experience with economisers but the doors were completely shut and return doors were fully open. That makes alot of sense what you said about the blower mixing cold air. Im gonna mess with the fan speed a little more. Based on what ive told you, if i find nothing wrong with the combustion, do you think it would be alright to leave it as is? Return was 53 and supply was 85-89 max btw. That was really the only thing thats hanging me up. Im in maryland and it just snowed. The church also experienced a huge power surge a few days ago