How To Do a Subterranean Termite Treatment
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2013
- goo.gl/sjm3Yo ...Click here to buy Subterranean Termite Treatment!
This video will show you how to do your own subterranean termite trenching treatment around your home. This treatment can protect your home from subterranean termites for up to 10 years! Subterranean termites are the one of the most damaging termites and cost homeowners in the U.S. $4.5 billion dollars in treatments and prevention every year. The termite treatment cost is significantly less when you do it yourself.
Subterranean termites can be difficult to detect and hard to get rid of, especially when drilling and spraying is involved. While many recommend experts to control subterranean termites, you can do it yourself with our tips, especially with our guide: how to do your own termite treatment. This page offers information on these damaging pests and options on outlines subterranean termite control options.
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timestamps
1:00 Save Money on Termite Treatment
1:25 Dig a Trench Around Your Home {Step 1}
1:40 Pour Termiticide {Step 2}
2:26 Refill the Trench {Step 3}
#diypestcontrol #domyownpestcontrol #domyown
as an ex technician I can say do your self a favor and remove any dead wood, wood debris, fire wood away from your house. That will help. for starters
Agree. For this reason, I do not use mulch up against the house. I use stone.
Thanks for the tutorial. We bought the termiticide and followed the tutorial. We did find it useful!
Right on! Useful video. I get to do this soon.
Thanks for posting.
just ordered my turas sc 78oz from your web sight, thank you so much the video was great, to the point really helped!! gave me the confidence to "do my own" saved me a lot of cash!!!
Good video. Thanks for the great tips. I thumbed up and subscribed!
This video reminds me when I had bedbugs in my home, every advise I got pointed me to the exterminator. I on the other hand decided to follow my instincts, went to ebay bought some 30 dollar powder sprinkled it on top of the carpet, threw away my fav couch let it it sit for a week, vacuumed it away. I did the same process two weeks later I have not seen the sons of itching backs again. worked for me at least, so now here we go termites....
Bedbugs are harder to get rid of than termites, because they can hide for up to 2 years in any nook (even behind lightswitch panels!). Pretty much anywhere. BUT...using that powder you got on ebay (which was probably inexpensive diatomaceous earth mixed with boric acid powder or borax powder), that stuff kills bedbugs very effectively, because it lasts as long as you keep the powder in place. They cannot build a resistance to it (like pesticides), because it works mechanically by suffocating them and drying them out. It just takes longer. You were smart to leave it in place for as long as you could. You just need to reapply it every few weeks initially and then once per month for 1 year (for good measure!), and wear a good mask when working with it and only get the diatomaceous earth that is 'food grade', not 'commercial'. The commercial type is heat treated and used in pool filters, and because it's heat treated, it contains a high level of silica which is very dangerous to breath in. Not good to breath the food grade stuff in either, but it's far less dangerous.Also, if you have pets or small children, I would ONLY used the diatomaceous earth, not the boric acid or borax, because that could be harmful if they ingest it, whereas D.E. (diatomaceous earth) is not harmful if ingested (food grade only). Food grade D.E. is available at any garden store or online. Just be sure it's not next to toxic odor pesticides on the shelf at the store (you don't want it absorbing any of that). It's VERY inexpensive too! Also, they can't build a resistance to citrus spray. The limonene in citrus just knocks them dead, almost instantly!
Do you remember the name of the stuff you used that you ordered on eBay?
Nice job on training
great video thanks.
Bryan: this video shows how to use Termidor to do a termite treatment. Termidor is legal for anyone to buy and apply in every state except: CT, NY, SC, MA, IN, WA. Termidor is the EXACT SAME chemical "professionals" are using. Doing it yourself is definitely the way to go as long as you're willing to do the digging and drilling involved. DIY termite treatments save people a ton of money (75% or more) and you can easily get the same results as hiring an exterminator.
Yeah but the label on the bottle is federal law and it clearly states that chemical is to be used by a licensed professional
Had to deal with 2 situations. 1 slab home had swarm in kitchen looked around an hour to find where it came from to determine treatment. Drywall tile cabinets Windows and sills floor vents light on ceilings quarter round plumbing penetrating slab even adjacent rooms found nothing. Then checked over by kitchen island with no plumbing used for prep only. The floor had brick pavers and a couple of inches from island noticed a little dirt about pencil lead size touched it and a worker poked his head out. We treated it and on drilling wood shavings came out. Apparently when the house was built a wood stake was left there and the floor was thinner there. The termites found the wood ate on it til they got to a crack there then swarmed.
#2 guy said termites had swarmed in every room of his house on the east side during the day while at work. Checked all the rooms as well as the rest. Dead swarmed were in air duct vents east side but no mudtubes. This meant they must have gotten in a junction then spread towards the light in the vents. Asked him which seemed to have the most in a room. With his answer went to the garage utility closet to see if they entered there but it was empty and plenum in floor sealed. Asked owner about that he stated due to water issues it was moved into attic. Went to attic problem found and solved. They tubed up fireplace to attic and started swarming east unit came on sucked them in blew into duct going to east side in attic you could see trail of dead ones going toward unit . Both were dealt with. This would have been difficult for a DIY TO HAVE dealt with but not impossible.
I treated several house in the Philippines with a small amount of Termidor and they have seen all their ant, cockroach, and termite problems disappear. I treated these houses 4 years ago and still they report no issues. My house in Florida and it has the Sentracon bait stations, which I inspect and service my self. I did drill some 3/4 holes in the outside concrete blocks, put a 3/4 pvc fitting with a cover so I could inject Termidor in the blocks about 5 feet above the concrete slab. I did this every 8 feet. The termidor treated blocks will be there a long time and I can retreat it periodically in about 20 minutes every few years. I did this also to a rental home and my neighbor reported he no longer sees fire ants in his yard. Not an intended affect but a good effect.
When you treated the block did you check the inside wall and flooring to make sure none leaked through.
If you treated the block every 8 ft apart are you sure you don't have gaps that aren't covered with treatment?
Termidor is the best in the states.
thank you so much!!!!
You’re only showing a rod & trench. Make a video on doing a full treatment, trenching, down drilling, stem drilling and all.
Yup, not everyone only has soil around their home. This is only showing half of the process. Not to mention interior walls that may be effected through crack or gap in the foundation
I love that big grin! LOL
This guy is so excited to murder termites. I love it haha
not the best gloves for using pesticides, would recommend a home owner to wear tyvex suit, full length rubber gloves, shoes or boots that don't absorb moisture, breathing and eye PPE. your respirator should be labeled for chemical use, not just a dust mask. Also important to follow label instructions precisely. Correct dilution rate is essential. Other than that not a bad video as long as you are just treating the exterior of a slab structure with unimproved soil around the perimeter.
I agree, I have built my own home by hiring different people that say they are experts and even have licenses, but I have learned that if you do alot of good reaserch your self, you can do a better job at DIY than alot of these other so called pros, most are just in it to take your money and run. I have done alot of jobs my self in my new home and Its to my intrest that its done right, of course I always ask at least 3 experts and take the most common sence advice.
Just push the dirt in the trench before the water absorbs into the ground. Screw the pump sprayer. If this stuff "spreads like a plague" then there's should be no need for pump spraying
I was thinking this, do 10ft section at a time, push the dirt back or fill with top soil (which is what I'll probably have to do because austin has nothing but rocks in the damn soil) and move on to the next section.
Per earlier comments, yes sometimes it's better to get a warranty...however, if you're older than say 30...you know a warranty is only as good as the person selling it to you! A lifetime warranty is NOT your lifetime or your car or houses lifetime, it is the lifetime of the company and just because they manage to stay in business does NOT mean they will honor said warranty. You can DIY or you will have to manage whoever you hire. Sad you can't trust someone to just do what they say they'll do. Example. I hired someone to mow my lawn when I usually do it myself. I asked do you do what you want or are you open to taking direction? The answer "we do how you want us to do it". Ok mow high and don't walk on my newly laid dirt which was recently laid and pressed to try and level correct yard. What happened? They mowed low and footprints and mower tracks all through my dirt! DIY no one else cares!!
Yep. I also got ripped off by a "professional" exterminator. Decided to research and do it myself. Nobody cares for your property as much as you do. But sadly, many seem to care just as little about a good reputation.
Prime Termite, your pretty funny, a homeowner if they take the time to read up and learn what they are doing usually a homeowner can and will do a much better job than a professional can, they can take as much time as they need to, its their home so doing the best job is in their best interest..
Coming from under the house only a issue if there is a crawl space. The Hoke in the video is a monolithic slab it's a solid foundation only way termites could get in under the home if there is a break in the slab
Or plumbing penetrating slab or crack around vent attached to any air duct in slab.
Termidor the way to go
what about if I have termites on my bathroom window? I just noticed lil white small insects and the wood is rotten, I just never paid attention to it. any advice ?
The holes in the concrete are already drilled as I had a liquid barrier put in back in 2021. Cost $700.
Great vid thanks. Quick question. Any advantage to using the new Termidor HE? I noticed the trench required is smaller...only 4x4. In addition you only need 2 gallons for every 10 linear feet. The ratio of the HE is 1.6oz per gallon of water. So, you still need 3.2oz for every 10 feet. The HE seems to be twice as expensive too. Other than the smaller trench size, any advantage to using the HE over the SC?
Termidor HE is available only to licensed Pest Control Operators, so we do not carry this product currently. Some PCOs really like this product since they can carry less product and do certain treatments more quickly. We recommend contacting BASF directly if you are a professional and have questions about the use of this product. pestcontrol.basf.us/contact-us.html
What about property that have concrete around the perimeter ?
Why use a pump with a sprayer when you can just mix back the dirt you pull out with the termiticide using a shovel? That way it’s faster.?
So bark mulch is probably a bad idea for around the hluse?
Question? I have a very visible 8-10 inch gravel foundation that's leveled all the way up to my house only my driveway does not have this perimeter. Do I still need to dig a trench? If so do I dig up the gravel or the dirt 8 inches out from my gravel and house?
When doing a liquid soil treatment for subterranean termite prevention, the treatment must be right next to the structure to be effective. So if there is gravel next to the building, then the gravel would need to be pulled back or removed so that you could dig and treat the 6 inch x 6 inch trench of soil/dirt (not the rocks). If the gravel is fairly deep, then you can either use a hollow rod like PVC pipe or metal piping forced through the rocks and down into the soil to apply the termiticide into soil in a kind of makeshift rodding. This can be fairly difficult if you have clay soil, so usually pulling back the gravel and trenching is actually easier.
The other option for subterranean termite prevention is to use a Termite Baiting System. Termite bait stations are placed about every 10-15 feet around the structure in the ground, 2-4 feet from the foundation outside the dripline of the roof.
Please give us a call at 866-581-7378 if you have other questions or would like to discuss your situation with our Customer Service experts!
very informative....so how would you treat pier and beam construction? Slab houses are post 1950 houses what if you have a pre 1950 house? Also if I wanted to treat wooden posts in the ground for my outdoor fencing. How do I do that?
With pier and beam structures you must trench and apply termite solution around each pier under the home. You would do the same for the wooden fence; trench around the wood and apply the termite solution around the posts. Please let us now if you have any other questions. We are always happy to help!
Termites can enter bottom of wood post and eat wood for a long time before contacting treatment. Best to have have non wood posts or when building fence dig holes pore 3-4inches of concrete in then put post in level it then pour concrete to top of ground level. You will break ground contact this way. The concrete would have to crack or they would have to tunnel to ground level then tube to wood you can trench around the concrete apply treatment to stop them. Building fence that way will also help with wood rot from ground moisture. Also whether you use fence panels or sections DON'T have them contacting the soil. Extra thing you can do is get a wettable borate product and soak or paint on the wood it will stop termites as well as some rot.
This is a great video, and I just watched a professional do it to my house yesterday. We had such a bad infestation this past year, the termite company came out to retreated the house again. The professional did EXACTLY what you did in the video - 6-8" wide and 6-8" deep. He did punch a pointed rod down in the soil 6-10" if able about every 3-4 feet, but he said really not necessary - The poison will seep in. He just did it to accelerate the poison getting deeper in the soil to try and kill the colony faster since we have been having such a bad year. The professional had a very nice spray system, and it poured treatment with a large wand at probably 5-7 PGM if not higher - It filled the trench like you did with the bucket. He sprayed on the soil going back in before shoveling it back in and then sprayed it after back in trench. He drilled the walls covered by concrete patios and doors and sprayed in those holes created with a smaller wand probably 1/2 to 1 GPM to facilitate going into the smaller hole.These comments on "brain surgery"...Please!!! It's comments from the professional who are threatened by this. The process shown is very feasible with buckets and a small yard sprayer. However, there are systems with 12V pumps with 25-30 gallon tanks made for 4 wheelers for about $90-$220. You could put this system on a pull around garden wagon and do the exact same thing. I will be retreating my house about every 5 years since the filled in swampland in Arkansas seems to be LOADED with termites. Have no fear - This is VERY easy to do, and if they didn't retreat it for free, I would have done this exact thing myself. I will do it myself in about 5 years versus the $1500 retreatment bill. You can buy a 4 wheeler sprayer and not feel guilty for that price.
And how do you propose to get the chemical barrier beneath the concrete slabs that are attached to your home ? ie. patios garages and air conditioner slabs . You need to invest in a heavy hammer drill . Do it yourself ! And good luck with that !
Wow, I sense you are a little threatened - None of this is rocket science. I was a plant maintenance engineer, and I've used a hammer drill millions of times. It's a non-issue for anyone who knows how to use a drill since it is a pretty simple tool, so don't try and frighten people reading this. Let's use our heads a bit - An individual can also rent one from Home Depot or any machinery rental place; No need to purchase. However, let's not start tearing up customer's beautiful concrete patios just yet. For all intensive purposes, you could very well treat concrete slabs just like the side of a slab house - Trench them. It's still creating a vapor barrier as the poison seeps into the soil just just like the foundation. The only way I would drill a patio, wall, door, or foundation is if the infestation was already in the house. "Good luck with that" - You are a funny man, and you assume people are helpless and can't work with machinery these days!
Arkansas Woodworking
Arkansas Woodworking - While reading ddavid1962 immediately thought the same thing you said in your comment; It just came out loud and clear...
Arkansas Woodworking ;
Great info Sir. One silly question, I get that we want the Termiticide deep in the soil hence the 6" trench but why not a shallower trench and while product still seeping backfill right away and treat that dirt?
Termites travel within a foot from the top of the soil. Digging a trench that is shallower than 6" may delay the effectiveness of the treatment. The minimum depth for a trench termite treatment is 6". The termiticide will automatically treat the first 6" and then the termiticide will then leach further down in the soil with time.
What are the names of the products I should use to do this Liquid Barrier ?
Thank u for your Video !!
Thanks for watching! We have several items that you can choose from.
Dominion 2L www.domyown.com/dominion-2l-termiticide-concentrate-p-1223.html can last 7 years in the soil.
Termidor www.domyown.com/termidor-sc-p-184.html and Taurus www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html will last 10 years in the soil.
Boy, the "Pro's" leaving comments saying us stupid homeowners are not able to do something could at least spell correctly or explain that there are dangers with working with some materials or chemicals. Maybe I missed it but even the maker of this video should push the importance of reading and understanding all the literature and safety precautions that come with any products of this nature. Something I know for a fact most professional people don't take the time to do either. Once they think they know they never look again even though things do change over time.. That no one is mentioning any actual dangers of contamination or the like sort of proves the point.. READ ALL SAFETY AND HANDLING DOCUMENTS on any product you use.. Every time before you use them so as not to confuse them with anything else.. A real Pro could recite them word for word from memory. And spot any changes in them immediately. I read all literature and labeling on anything like this or other home repair products I use. every time.... That writing is actually there for a reason.... And I can do anything a Pro can it just may take me a little longer because I put more thought and care into it. I want things done right, and that is why I do them myself. .
Well said, Dave. I've hired professionals to do things and afterwards I've had to go back fix them. Like you, I do research before I do a job, I buy the proper tools and materials, and I take the time to do it right.
deezynar
+Dave Greaves as an ex terminte technician you can do your own pest control. As far as dangers use reasonable protective clothing you should be fine. Theres no magic to this.
@@desertdispatch thank you for your comment. I was worried about doing this but your encouraging words let's me know this video is good and I can do this myself.
do recommend a diy treatment before construction?
Before construction treatments should be done by a professional pest control operator so you can pass the initial inspection. You will not be able to provide a certificate of termite protection if you do this treatment your self.
What type of safety precautions are necessary when using Taurus SC. Do I need skin protection like gloves? Di I need a respirator of some type because of fumes? And ............ any other precautions?
The specific PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) required for use of a registered pesticide is always provided on the product label. For Taurus SC, these items include long-sleeved shirt and long pants; shoes and socks; and waterproof gloves such as barrier laminate, butyl rubber, natural rubber, nitrile rubber, viton, etc. A respirator is required while working in a non-ventilated space such as crawl space, and protective eyewear is required when working in a non-ventilated space or applying by rodding. Please refer to the Taurus SC product label for complete details. www.domyown.com/msds/Taurus_SC_Label1i.pdf
What does per foot of depth mean as in, "For example, for treatment of 10 linear feet with a four-foot depth, use 16 (4 x 4) gallons per 10 linear feet." per the instructions. Do you need to go down 4 feet in some cases if so what conditions. Thanks
+rawrawraw321 Only on the front side (outside) of houses with basements is the 16 gallons per 10' necessary. Typically that ratio reduces as you walk downhill outside to the basement level to the original 4 per 10' per 1' of depth. The reason for only trenching 6" on a monolithic slab house (that means no basement, no crawl space) is that the treatment will be absorbed by the surrounding soil another 6". Another way, as we professionals in the industry do it, is use an old pair of boots and use your foot to knock loose soil back in as you treat it by yourself. Don't spray foot. Do not apply in the rain or chance of rain to let the treatment bond to the soil. Once it has bonded to soil, rain is not a factor but construction is. Treatment always needs to be reapplied after disturbing the soil.
What happens to the treated soil after monsoon? Does it get washed out? How long will such a treatment be effective?
If you have severe flooding or similar rainfall that would cause the soil to be displaced, then you would probably need to retreat after that event. If this is a regularly occurring event, then a soil treatment probably isn’t a good idea since you would constantly be concerned about the treated soil be moved or washed away. In those areas (such as a lot of coastal areas), then using a termite baiting system is more practical and reliable than doing a soil treatment. Keep in mind that our advice and product recommendations only apply to the US. We are not able to tell you what is allowed or effective in other parts of the world.
I have a two level "daylight" basement home , the front of the house has a concrete patio that I will drill but the footing is probably 10-12' deep in this area. How do I address this ? Thank you in advance !
You will need to drill down at least 18-24 inches to get to the soil and further in.
Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.
I see plenty of information on how to do the initial barrier however there is zero info on doing a yearly re-treatment that the pest control company does yearly for $150. I imagine it entails spraying down thr surface at the perimeter and behind the bathtub (access panel in sheetrock in adjoining room), however I'm just guessing. I didnt follow the pest control guy around when he came last August for a follow-up.
If you do the trenching treatment, that treatment will last for ten years. It is also recommended to take the same product and spray up 1 foot and out 1 foot from the foundation twice yearly. This will also take care of most of the insects that could be around your foundation.
I had professional subterranean termite removal around my home last year and paid $1,000 to kill them. Now he wants $150 per year to "recheck" to see if they have returned, and to pay $150 per year every year as maintenance. You said that termite treatments last 5 to over 10 years. I guess that the $150 per year to "recheck" (not retrench) is a bit of a ripoff then? Thanks for the advice.
I just got quoted 2k
Portions of my house sit on pillars that go down to the ground and not directly on a slab. Am I able to go around the perimeter of house like in the video or do I need to go around each individual pillar?
If you have pillars under the house, then it is best to do both a perimeter trenching treatment and to treat around each pillar that is under the house as well. This will give you the most complete treatment.
What about inside the crawl space not just the outside of your home what about inside of your crawl space if you have dirt inside the crawl space
If you are able to access the crawl space to do a trenching treatment, then we definitely recommend doing so for the extra protection for your home. If you are using a fipronil product (such as Taurus SC or Termidor SC) then this treatment is not usually required except for treating around any piers that are under the home. With other active ingredients, we recommend treating inside the crawl space. Also, if you have active subterranean termites inside the crawl space, then you would need to trench in the crawl space. If you have any other questions, feel free to call us at 866-581-7378 M-F 9a-5p EST.
My neighbor just discovered he's got termites and luckily he just needs to have a little repair done to his windows. Now I'm thinking if contacting pest control for an estimate. This looks pretty simple for a "country boy" to do. If I go this route, should I dig a deep small hole every so often and pour the solution in so it gets deeper penetration or is the six inch ditch good enough? Also, I've got a dog, would this be harmful to her?
Thank you for your questions! You should dig the 6”x 6” trench and you can use a piece of rebar to poke holes that do not go below the footer every 12 inches or so for a deep penetrating treatment. Be sure to keep your dog out of the area while doing the application and until it has dried. After that, your dog will be able to re-enter the area with no issues.
Thank you for the video. Does it have to be so close to the foundation of the house?
Yes, your liquid termite treatment needs to be right next to the house to protect it. Otherwise, you are just leaving space for the termites to get to your home.
@@domyown One of my home's walls is directly bordered by a sidewalk (shared sidewalk with the home right beside me about 5 feet away). There is no soil I can dig into without taking out the sidewalk.
Any suggestions for treating this section of the house? Thanks!
@@mikebevan1034 You will have to drill holes in the sidewalk and pour it in with a funnel. I believe the holes are supposed to be 1 ft apart. Google it. I've seen it in a few places.
I have a concrete slab as patio in the backyard but is 20X15 and i will soon get pavers from corner to corner in the backyard so i can treat the areas that i still dont have any concrete or pavers but what about the concrete area? Do i have to drill a trench? should i tell the installers to drill a long trench in the concrete next to perimeter of the house so i can easily put the liquid before they put the pavers on top? What they are doing is they are not removing the concrete slab but putting recycle concrete on the sides that have dirt to level up the existing concrete slab and then on top they will put the pavers. So should i tell them to drill a trench on the perimeter or should i treat now the area that doesn’t have anything yet and then treat the perimeter of the new patio with pavers? Thank you!! 🙏🏼🙏🏼
To treat areas with Termidor SC that have a soil to foundation interruption such as a patio, you would drill holes in the patio using a ½ diameter concrete drill bit that is 18-24 inches long. The holes will be drilled every 12 inches and filled at a rate of 4 gallons of finished solution every 10 feet, just like you were doing in the trench. Please review the Termidor Product Label www.domyown.com/msds/Termidor_SC_Label.pdf and our article How To Do A Termite Treatment www.domyown.com/subterranean-termite-treatment-guide-a-478.html for all the proper techniques for a home owner to treat this area. Please let us know if you have any other questions.
I have a crawlspace under my entire house. The floor of the crawlspace is dirt. Can I did dig the trench along the inside perimeter of my foundation wall, so it's done under the crawlspace?
In cases where you have crawl spaces, you need to trench on both sides of the wall for the best protection. And if the walls are hollow blocks it is recommended to drill into the blocks to apply termiticide as well. You should also trench and treat around any piers that touch the ground under the house.
A lot of my house is surrounded by brick. I've seen a professional company drill holes about every 18" through bricks and "inject" a liquid through the holes. Is the product you are selling the same?
Yes, liquid termiticides can be used to drill and inject into brick. Normally, horizontal drilling through brick is not needed unless you have a hollow block wall leading into a basement that you need to treat on the inside. You would follow the instructions laid out at the link below to our Termite Treatment Guide on how to do a trench around the foundation of your home with Termidor to get the 10 year protection from subterranean termites. Any areas you have concrete against the foundation (i.e., patio, sidewalk, driveway/garage) where you can't trench, you would need to drill a hole every 12 inches across and treat the soil below the concrete. These instructions are also laid out in the guide and product label of Termidor SC which you can find a link to under the Product Documents section on the Termidor SC page. www.domyown.com/termidor-sc-p-184.html
Termite Treatment Guide
www.domyownpestcontrol.com/subterranean-termite-treatment-guide-a-478.html
I Live in Florida.It can rain like it does in the tropics.How do you keep this from leaching. Also,our groundwater for drinking begins at 35 feet
+john fleming This treatment, when done according to the instructions, does not move, even with rain. The product binds down to the soil and does not allow for translocation.
If you have landscape work done against foundation or put in a planter and move or add soil there you will affect the treatment plus excessive moisture can break down chemical faster. Gutters and good drainage away from the foundation is recommended.
why do you dig the trench and not just pour the product on the ground around the house?
How do you deal with pavers and driveway. I live in AZ in the valley and our home has a significant number of pavers surrounding the home. We have two couryards covered in pavers How are these treated.?
When performing a liquid soil treatment for termite prevention, the idea is always to create a continuous barrier around the structure. Where there is concrete, you would use a hammer drill to create holes about 2-4 inches from the foundation and every 12-18 inches, then fill the holes evenly so you are still applying 4 gallons of termiticide per 10 linear feet. If you cannot drill between the pavers, then you may consider installing termite bait stations instead of doing a liquid soil treatment. Bait stations are placed about every 10-15 feet around the structure, 2-4 feet from the foundation and outside the dripline of the roof.
You can learn more under Prevention Option 2 in our Subterranean Termite Prevention Guide here:
www.domyown.com/subterranean-termite-prevention-guide-a-479.html
I have concrete, I need to drill holes 🥺
My house is about 1,000 square feet. Home many 20 oz bottles of Termidor do I need to purchase?
You will need to measure the distance around the structure to determine how much product you need. Each 20 oz bottle of Termidor SC will treat 60 linear feet for termite trenching, plus you will need a few extra gallons for the backfill. Please call us at 866-581-7378 if you have more specific questions about termite treatments
Does it made a difference treating the outside or in the crawlspace?
When you are treating for just prevention of termites in a trench only the outside is required to be treated but you should also treat around and pillars or beams in the crawl space as well. If you are dealing with an active infestation inside the home it is also then recommended to trench along the inside wall of the crawlspace as well.
The previous pest control guy took short cuts by not digging enough depth and width and did not wet the top soil. Some of the area around my house are also covered with 3-4 inch of gravel or bark mulch, what are the suggestions to treat those area to create the barrier? Thanks.
To treat the area you would need to remove the gravel/mulch completely from the area 6 inches out from the house and may need to retreat if not treated deep or wide enough. We have a step by step guide that will walk you through how to do your own termite trenching treatment. You can see the guide by clicking on the link here www.domyown.com/subterranean-termite-treatment-guide-a-478.html
@@domyown Thanks for the info. Another question is that the yard covered by mulch has termites when I open them up to plant trees. How to kill them and their colonies in this situation?
@@dougs3866 You could use Bayer Advanced Termite Killer Ready to Spread Granules. This is a ready-to-spread granular formulation using Imidacloprid. Simply use the shaker jug to sprinkle the Bayer Advanced Termite Killer Ready to Spread Granules on the ground, water in, and walk away. www.domyown.com/bayer-advanced-termite-killer-ready-to-spread-granules-p-3333.html
Can this work around a tree that termite is eating through? I wouldn’t want to lose the tree that provides a lot of shade.
You would not trench around a tree for prevention no, it is only done around structures. Termites do not normally attack live, healthy trees so you most likely will not find any products that will work as a ground barrier around the trees. While you can treat nests directly in the tree for termites with something like Termidor Foam, getting the tree healthy/identifying issues will help with reinfestation
Can I fill my trench w/ the old school Tree Bark treatment or that alone if it dies the same?
When using Termidor SC in a trench around the home you must use soil as it is designed to bind to it.
Question: I want to order this product but want to ask question before ordering it, I have 3ft concrete around parameter and 8ft in back porch, would it be ok to treat termites from that much distance ? or it has to be treated by the foundation? I found leak in to my closet and noticed termites activity also. thank you.
Yes, you will drill through the concrete every 12 inches and apply the product as close to the foundation as possible. Please let us know if you have any questions.
You also need to address the leak or the ones inside can bestained above it by the moisture.
I already hired someone to do the trenching around my house. The directions on bottle says 1/8 oz. to every gallon so if you use four gallons of water you need 1/8 + 1/8+ 1/8 + 1/8 = 4/8 oz which is 1/2 oz. which is .5 oz per 4 gallons of water. Hopefully it will work because alot of termites have been detected. Exterminator wanted to charge 800 bucks plus 125 every service vist.
Tony Garza Unfortunately the information you have listed is not correct. The instructions for Termidor direct you to use .80 fl oz per gallon of water or 3.2 fl oz per 4 gallons of water. 4 Gallons of finished solution should be used per 10 linear of your tr4ench. Please let us know if you need further assistance. We can be reached at 866-581-7378
***** Thanks for setting me straight. I misread the instructions and would be a total waste of time. The trench around the house has been dug, but at a bad time. It has been raining heavily and I'm afraid the dirt that was dug out will erode down to nothing when its time to put soil back in. Any suggestions? Thanks for the video.
Tony Garza
We recommend applying the termite solution as soon as possible. You need 24 hours with out rain to do so. If there is a lot of rain predicted in the coming days you can cover the trenches and removed soil with tarps. This will stop the trenches from eroding and stop the soil from being washed away. Then when you are ready to do the treatment, pull up the tarps and you are ready to go.
***** This morning we had the chance of adding the four gallon with 3.2 oz of pesticide. We did it but it was so humid friend backed out of helping me after that. Dragged my wife so she could help me put the dirt back in. She sprayed while I put the dirt as it went back in.She got tired so we only completed half and need the other half perimiter of the house. Mind you its about 2600 sq. ft. Its' hard to find good help these days. 50 percent chance of rain tomorrow so I'm kinda worried. Thanks again.
Tony Garza
You can always count on us to be there to help! You are very welcome and let us know if you need anything else.
So where do you get the product?
You can shop subterranean termite treatment products on our website here... www.domyown.com/subterranean-termites-c-3_483.html
Had a guy come out and say they had to dig 45 degree holes to treat i believe he said “under slab”
If you have termites coming from cracks or other openings in a slab, then it can be necessary to drill through the slab to be sure you are targeting the termites that are already present. Please feel free to give our Customer Service team a call at 866-581-7378 if you have questions about your treatment!
Can you use a boric acid and sugar mixture instead?
Whether Boric acid were used on its own, or mixed with sugar, it would not provide any sort of attractant to the termites, nor would it work to control a colony. Home remedies are never recommended for termite treatments as you need to properly protect the integrity of the home and its foundation.
the best termite products we have now are not non repellants ….. 1 Sentricon station every 10 ft…..no confusion
Exactly...that's what we use
Hi, how do i treat my new slab-on-grade foundation, pre-pour?
If you are treating a slab before pouring, then you would use 1 gallon of finished solution (0.8 oz per gal of water) per 10 square feet. It seems like a lot, but keep in mind that you only have one opportunity to do this treatment.
If it fails after it's done you have to get a concrete drill. Drill where it's against the older part of the house treat that and the exterior perimeter then repair any damage hopefully they don't gert far before they're found.
Can you use this product before and or after it has rained?
You should not do a termite treatment if it is raining outside or if you are expecting rain within 24 hours. If it has just rained and the ground is saturated with water, then you should wait for the ground to dry up some so that you do not have a muddy trench and so that the soil can absorb the termiticide and dry in a timely manner. Feel free to call our Customer Service team with any other questions: you can reach us at 866-581-7378 M-F 9a-5p ET.
If I treat today for example and the forecast shows rain the following day, do I need to be concerned with rain?
Ideally, you would have at least 24 hours without rainfall in the treatment area so that your treatment has plenty of time to dry before rainfall. The exact amount of time needed will depend on how saturated the ground may be before your treatment.
@@domyown Thank you
Nobody ever answers me back on these things but if the bug guy didnt dig a trench n just sprayed all around the outside of the building will the spray last n work???
If you spray only on the top surface of the ground and do not trench or inject termiticide into the soil, then you will not have termite protection. Most professional companies will use a truck-mounted sprayer and inject termiticide into the soil when doing a liquid treatment since digging a trench is labor- and time-intensive. If you have been paying for a service, be sure to review your service records and get more details about what was done if you are not sure.
How to treat a 21 foot Baja boat I just bought that came with termites She is a 1997 212 Isalander
The only product we have for spot treating termites on a boat is PT Alpine Foam. Usually termites found on a boat are drywood termites, so you will need to look for the kickout holes to the colonies and apply the Foam directly into these spots. Please feel free to call us at 866-581-7378 if you have additional questions. www.domyown.com/pt-alpine-ant-and-termite-foam-p-1281.html
Also if you can find a liscened fumigation person. If you live near an area that ships or receives grain overseas they may be able to help you as some grains require fumigation before shipping.get someone to identify termite type first. Dry wood termites the wood will have tiny pinholes and if it hasn't been moved may have wood dust particles shaped like miniature grape but cereal.
some of these none repellants may not be be so undetectable ……
What Pier and beam foundation
A pier and beam structure has support piers in the ground under the structure with beams that connect them, so there will be a crawl space under the home rather than a concrete slab onto which the house is built. If you have these piers under your home, then you would need to trench around each one just as you would around an exterior foundation. Please feel free to call us at 866-581-7378 if you have other questions about your treatment.
Special equitment and knowledge is required …..period
how far must you be from well water?
DO NOT apply finished dilution within 5 feet of any well or cistern. Soil between 5 and 10 feet from a well or cistern must only be treated by the backfill method described on the product label of the product you are using.
Hi! Im hearing termite scratches already on my wall , is this still applicable in my situation? Thanks alot!
I have an L-shaped concrete pad porch, about 20x16 in front of my house. Will digging the trench around the porch be enough?
Im a termite technician from Hanco exterminating, when you have concrete around the foundation of the house. the most effective way to treat is to drill a hole every FOOT through the concrete right up beside the foundation and spray termiticide into the drilled holes
Thanks Seth. I have an additional problem. I have a deck porch over the old concrete porch. I thought if the termiticide were to be applied at further intervals, I would just remove some of the boards, but every foot would practically require me to remove most of the decking. I guess this is one thing I can't do on my own.
+Maphiro611 If you have a crawl space underneath your house, you can actually go along the foundation from the inside of the crawl space where the porch area is and drill every foot and spray termiticide directly into the soil under your porch from within the crawl space.
@@SefwaddGaming can you use a backpack sprayer after the holes in the concrete are drilled to apply the thermidor into the ground ? Or do you need to have a skid with tank /gas motor running to apply the chemical better into the holes on the concrete
Hello everyone,, question? I will have fumigate my home next week., is it possible , I can DIY the treatment in my basement coz it costs so much money for the treatment. Anyways my home is a 100yrs old thanx in advance
Termite treatments are one area where in many cases you absolutely can do the treatment yourself, but at other times it may be best to higher a professional. If you have an existing termite infestation that has caused extensive damage, you have several sites of infestation, or there is a lot of structural work that needs to be done, then sometimes it is best to have a professional company handle the treatment. Professional treatments may also carry a warranty which could be needed if you have a severe issue that may require follow-up treatments.
If you have a basement where there is a concrete floor and you have live subterranean termites, then the basement will need to be treated, typically by drilling through the concrete floor to treat the soil beneath any cracks or expansion joints where the termites are getting in, by treating hollow blocks, or other entry points. We do have excellent Termite Inspection and Termite Treatment Guides on our website. Please feel to call us at 866-581-7378 if you would like to discuss your situation with our Customer Service team!
This video DOES NOT say how much taurus is mixed with the 4 gallons of water. 4 gallons every 10 feet yes, but the big question, how much taurus goes in the 4 gallons
The application rate for Taurus SC is 0.8 ounces per 1 gallon of water, so you will use 3.2 ounces per 4 gallons of water.
sure they can…they can drill 2 holes in every cinder block, and drill down through any abutting slabs every 12 inches…just as effectively as a professional. AND since the home owner is insuring the results himself, he can do that just as effectively as a professional……..oh ya prolly more like 200 gallons…if you follow the label.
Shouldn’t you have dug the trench right up against the foundation. In addition, when you backfill, the soul is too high against the foundation. It’s touching the siding in some places. You want about 4 inches of foundation showing.
Yes, your trench should be against the foundation; however if you need to have a small amount of dirt to prevent too much runoff, then you can mix all that dirt next to the house after you pour your termiticide or when you spray the backfill. The idea is to have a barrier of treated soil that is 6 inches wide and 6 inches deep next to the structure. You can continue to level the soil after treatment as needed for the structure you are treating.
How much product for 4 gallons?
How much for 1 gallon sprayer.. Thanks
When diluting Termidor SC with water, you will use 0.8 fluid ounces of the product per 1 gallon of water. There really is no math required for this. You will just measure 0.8 fluid ounces of the product using the measuring reservoir on the bottle. You will then pour that amount of product into 1 gallon of water. When using a 1 gallon sprayer, the idea is to fill the sprayer up half way (1/2 gallon), add the 0.8 ounces of Termidor SC, agitate (or shake up) the chemical, fill the sprayer to 1 gallon, and agitate the chemical again.
If you are using the product for the trenching method for termites, which requires 4 gallons of finished solution for each trench, then there is a little bit of math required. Since 0.8 fluid ounces goes into 1 gallon of water, you will use 3.2 fluid ounces per 4 gallons of water.
@@domyown thanks just about to mix and thought it was 2.5 ounces to 4 gallons
Dominion 2l
What if I have rermites in a certain area if I dig willi disturb them and they will escape under my house ? What if I dig where the termites at active and pour this chemicals will they die instantly ?
We suggest that you read over our Subterranean Termite Treatment Guide www.domyown.com/subterranean-termite-treatment-guide-a-478.html for a better understanding of the recommended treatment methods for subterranean termites, including trenching. When using a termiticide like Taurus SC www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html in a trenching application, the non-repellent nature of the active ingredient allows the pests to touch, ingest, and spread the insecticide throughout their entire colony. This will typically eliminate termite colonies in less than 90 days on average, but it does take time for the product to take full effect.
I have tried this twice and to the label, it did not work that well
Give our customer service staff a call! 866-581-7378
What about the ones already inside the house destroying it??????
If you are already finding live termites inside your home, then you will want to spot treat the colony with a termiticide concentrate or ready-to-use termiticide foam. We have more details in this guide: www.domyown.com/subterranean-termite-treatment-guide-a-478.html
Please feel free to call us at 866-581-7378 M-F 9a-5p ET if you need assistance with your situation.
Why not make, say, 4 or 5 gal. then immediately after pouring it into the trench, shovel the dug out soil into that part of the trench, before it all absorbs into the ground. Then that top soil will also be saturated with the Termiticide. Is there any reason why your 'Dominion 2L Termiticide' will not be just as effective as the more expensive Termiticide? Thank you
Unfortunately in order for the application to be effective it is advised to follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. You will need to spray the soil that is being put back in the trench in order for the application to be effective. Dominion is not necessarily less effective but it will last less time in the soil than fipronil products. Dominion will only last 5-7 years in a trench when many fipronil products will last up to 10. Please let us know if you have any other questions.
@@domyown
[ "You will need to spray the soil that is being put back in the trench in order for the application to be effective]"
Your answer makes me think that I was not clear with my first question.
I'm asking, if I pour the poison into the trench, and BEFORE it sinks in the ground, I put the dug out soil into the Termiticide within the trench.
That way, ALL of the soil, is saturated with the Termiticide. No need to spray since all of the soil has the Termiticide mixed in.
I'm ready to but more of your Termiticide.
@@urdivine Yes, that process is correct, however per manufacturer label it is still recommend that you spray the soil that is being put back in the trench in order for the application to be effective. Thanks.
random foraging can be limited, and continued activity will occur …..where access has already been well established.
Uhhh, that wasn't 10'.
What do you do if there is concrete around most of the foundation?
If concrete such as a carport slab or sidewalk is against the foundation in the area where you need to treat, you will be required to drill through the concrete to apply the termiticide solution to the soil. Using the hammer drill with a 1/2" x 18" concrete drill bit www.domyown.com/sds-hammer-drill-bit-p-1412.html, come out 2-3 inches from the foundation and drill holes every 12" into the concrete along the foundation wall.
You are not only drilling through just the concrete here, but also as deep as you can into the dirt. The deeper the better. Once the holes are drilled, you fill at the same rate you did the trench, 4 gallons per 10 feet. If you drilled the holes 12 inches apart, then you would have 10 holes over 10 feet that you are trying to fill with 4 gallons. This works out to be a little less than half a gallon per hole.
To fill these I would recommend using the one gallon sprayer on a "pin stream" setting so you can force the liquid down the hole and not splash it everywhere. You can also use a funnel and pour the termiticide down the holes. It is difficult to get 4 gallons per 10 feet in the holes, so it is important that you use a long drill bit, at least 18" long, so you can bore out enough dirt to hold the termiticide. Sometimes the ground is slow to soak up the termiticide you place in the holes. You may need to fill the holes, then go work on something else for an hour, come back and fill them again, go work on something else... 3 to 4 times to get the proper amount down the holes. Once the holes are filled all you need to do is patch them with a concrete patch filler you can buy at a home improvement or hardware store, or you can use our Trebor plugs www.domyown.com/trebor-plastic-plugs-12-inch-p-288.html that will close the hole with no concrete mess.
@@domyown Thank you so much for your incredibly detailed and informative response. I appreciate the time, effort, and dedication but you have to helping others. Thank you so much. Have an amazing day.
@@sharonhalter-day3334 You are most welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
If this kills termites within the soil, will it also kill ant colonies in the soil. I've been putting HEAVY ant granules down but they seem to have limited and short lived effect.
Ants typically are moving over the top of the surface of soil whereas termites will be below the surface completely moving between the layers of dirt. If any ant colonies were to pass through the treated soil around the homes foundation, they likely would still pick it up and be able to transfer some of it through the colony for control. If you find ant granules are not working for you in your yard, you may have a higher ant population than you originally thought, which may need a baiting application to allow product to get carried back to the source of the nest. Most insecticide granules that are spread over your yard will only kill those ants which touch the directly treated surfaces, which can give the impression you aren't seeing a lot of results. You may want to look over our Outdoor Ant Kit to see if this may better suit your needs. www.domyown.com/outdoor-ant-kit-p-14503.html
Depends on the type of and as well try to get it identified you may need wood and bait or liquid bait. Read the label it will explain how to use it correctly.
I have a detached garage and termites are actively penetrating the studs from inside the garage. Do you not treat the active bugs on the inside after doing this? I'm assuming they have to go back down underground and the more that stay alive, the more the poison distributes to the rest of the colony?
Will it be effective if I just do around 2 or 3 outer walls of my house?
In order for a termite preventative treatment to be effective, you need to create a continuous barrier all the way around your home. We like to think of it like putting on sunscreen: if you only put sunscreen on half your body, the other half is likely to get burned.
@@domyown Sadly I have one wall I can not trench along...not sure what to do.
@@BanjoPicker If you cannot trench because of concrete, then you would drill to get to the soil below. Another option is to use termite bait stations where you cannot do a liquid application. Please call our Customer Service team at 866-581-7378 so that we can better assess your specific situation. We look forward to assisting you!
!
Does it kill my plants?
Do you just do a small portion of the house
I cant trench my whole house because my plants/flowers
Yes, you should do a trench around the entirety of your home. If trenching is not a possibility you may want to consider using termite bait stations instead. Please read over our termite treatment guide so you can see your options.
www.domyown.com/subterranean-termite-prevention-guide-a-479.html
DoMyOwn ok ty
Do you think the chemicals will kill my plants?
@@nystagmus Incidental spray on the plants should not harm them. You must take care to make sure no sprays get on edible vegetation.
Too bad it requires a license or registration to be able to use and apply termiticide. What you are suggesting is against the law.
In most areas, you can treat on your own property. If you are treating others’ property for payment, then you must be a licensed pesticide applicator in your area. Please check with your local Department of Pesticide Regulation for concerns about pesticide use in your county.
What do you do iff there is cement ????
Martha Ponce Get underneath the cement with a rod and apply the chemical.
Italiano
How do you make sure of avoiding underground gas lines and pipes?
In many homes it's fairly obvious where the utilities go in, but it's always a good idea to have utilities officially marked. In the United States, the number to call is 811 before digging (or go to the website, search for "call811") for utility maintained lines. Depending on your home, some lines may not be utility maintained all the way to the home (typically water only goes to the property line), but usually gas and electricity are maintained all the way to the house by the utility (YMMV). When you call, they will direct you to the right contacts at the local utility companies. I believe it's either free everywhere or at least most places. There are also private marking companies for lines that are not utility maintained.
I don't see that using 2 people is all that helpful. It seems to me that you could simply spray the untreated dirt then refill the trench YOURSELF. Isn't that so?
Yes, you could treat the backfill dirt yourself, as stated in the video it is just a lot easier when you have 2 people completing this task.
Haha, you're just afraid of losing business. I know several people who have successfully done their own termite treatment. The bulk of what you would pay a company is all in the labor to do the digging. If people can dig a trench they can do their own termite treatment no problem.
Facts
What if you have a basement with termites on a support column or have had room addition or multi level house or water well or cistern in the structure or thick shrubs or ivy against house or a water garden with fish against it ? What if there's a deck a few inches from the ground built on or you have slab house with cracks in the floor as well as air conditioning ducts in the slab? Or god forbid an inaccessible crawl with visible supports you can't get to ? That stuff hasn't been addressed yet.
@@jmckinney90 I brought out legitimate concerns the average home owner doesn't consider. I haven't been in termite work for a long time and just encountering people had to deal with these issues at times. There were people who did it themselves and it didn't work because of things they weren't aware of like cracks or the type of foundation they had. Even short cuts by a builder or even the homeowner themselves doing remodeling. I have no dog in this or effect on my pockets and find lots of generalizations on these do it yourself threads.
how do you guys sell to people without licenses?
+Rommel Dafny You are not required to have a license to purchase these products listed for sale on our website. You are only required to have a license if you are applying the products for profit and/or to others peoples property.
lmfao
yes you can treat your own home....and you can issue your own future damage repair warranty!
An intelligent comment !