Digitize 35mm Slides and Negatives - Slide copying with a digital camera
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- čas přidán 30. 03. 2020
- Digitize 35mm Slides and Negatives. Slide copying with a digital camera is the best way to digitize your slides and negatives. I also briefly test Negative Lab Pro.
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I've come back back here to share my experience of doing this. I use a 60 mm lens with macro capabilities. I made a tube housing with a template from an old enlarger which is the exact same size as the slide. I use a 6500 k LED light source. The 60 mm lens can be set to exactly match the size of the slide by moving the back and forth so that eliminates cropping time in post production. Set the shutter to 2 second delay to eliminate camera shake. I use F5.6 or F8 because sometimes the slides are slightly curved and not a 100% flat. I'm happy with my results.
I'd like to try the HDR on contrasty images.
Thanks Peter. Now I can copy all my thousands of slides I shot on my Olympus OM1 OM2 and OM4 back when I was young. Thanks again.
Thanks Peter. I have been meaning to do this for a while.
Thank you Peter for the instructive video! For slides you could also use an old slide projector, remove the lens of the projector and take the picture from the slide stage. You need to exchange the light bulb against a less powerful one and replace the collector lens with a matte glass. There are even cheap kits available to do the conversion.
Advantage is you always have the slide in the same position and using a magazine, an automatic change of the slides. This way its possible to digitize about a hundred slides in ten minutes. If you are interseted, I can send you a picture of the setup.
Keep up your good work!
That sounds like a great solution. I need to test that! Thanks for the tip!
Christian, thank you so much for this comment. I had no idea you could use a projector to scan slides. It sounds like a simple and clean method and I will search for ways to do it. (Thanks also to Peter for his solution too.)
Oh my gosh! Thank you, I have the perfect lens to do this. I adapted a 70mm enlarger lens to fit my camera with a helicoid adapter(to make it focus) It acts like a macro lens. The thing is crazy sharp, it had to be made that way because it was for enlarging prints. I have a lot of my negatives from shooting film in the 90’s I’m so gonna try this!
Nicely presented. I've neglected my own slide and negative conversion project for far too long. This gives me a push to get it over with. Thanks. :)
Try to make time to do it. It is a great way to back to old images. A lot memories.
Wow. I live in New Mexico and those pictures of now just white sands but literally every other image truly blew me away. Thank you so much for sharing this you have no idea how much it means to you a young person still trying to learn photography, shoot with Olympus btw and your videos have definitely been a giant influence on my decision to use Olympus and buy into the system.
Really great to hear. Yes that was a long time ago when I visited the White Sands.
Thank you Peter, the video was very interesting and informative.
You are very welcome!
Thanks for sharing. Some great tips & guidelines for slide Y negative copy work.😎😎
Thank you, Peter. This topic was on my wishlist. Appreciate the way, you explain it - simple and highly informative. Greetings from snowy Sofia, BG!
Thanks for you comment. Snowy Sofia, in April?
@@ForsgardPeter Yes, it is not so unusual here in Sofia :) A day ago it was 15-18 cm snow carpet here. Twice in the last two weeks indeed. With temperature amplitude from +25 to -5 within 24 hours. You were here at the beginning of March, in the rainy early spring, as I remember. Have a good time and stay safe!
Wonderful video, I have 1,000's of Kodachrome 64 slides from the 70's and 80's, would like to digitize the very best of them. I needed this help to get started, thank you for the professional advice and everyone who contributed below.
Thanks.
Thank you Peter for this interesting video. I will try it soon. And thank you for your opinion "sharpness" isn't all what's werth.
Thanks. Yes I do think thta there are other things in photography that can be more important. Not always, but sometimes.
Great video Peter. I have about 1000 slides to digitize. This will help - thank you.
Greta to hear. You have some digitising to do!
Thanks, Peter. I have tried to copy slides in the past with various scanners - a very laborious and slow method delivering mixed results. I will try your suggested method - at least the image capture will be more or less instantaneous. Best wishes. Keep well.
Thank you. Stay safe.
9:11 is breathtaking
Hi Peter.....this is an outstanding new....I have lots...lots...of slides..since the analog photography
days....Thanks a lot for your help..!!!
Best regards.
Great to hear!
You teaching is great Peter!
Thank you.
Awesome video - exactly what I wanted to know. thanks for posting! :D
Glad it was helpful!
Fin to see photos from the past Peter. You should do a video on "old school photography" and the image quality development from like the 80s to 2020
Some people says photos looked better in the past than today.
Keep up the good work
Thanks. A good idea. I will look into it.
Great video Peter, now my wife thanks to you wants me to scan all the negatives😊
Sorry.... 😀
Thanks Peter. some good advice there. I use the 60mm macro and high resolution and a lightbox with film raised above the lightbox to eliminate any surface defects as you point out. With colour negatives I use VueScan (the full version) to load in the RAW files and find it does a great job of making a positive image and getting the colour correct and it handles high resolution RAW files from Olympus perfectly. I use DXO Silver Efex (comes with DXO Nik) for black and white negatives after reversing them first of course. Black and white are easier to do of course, no colour to correct.
I have compared my E-M5 mkII high res images against my old Imacon Flextight Precision II scanner and the Olympus images are even better and higher resolution (a lot depends on quality of your film too), would be interesting to compare to the newer Hasselblad scanners that took over Imacon, not that most people would rush out and buy one (you can buy a lot of Olympus gear for the price of one).
Anyway thank you again.
Nice to see this Peter! I did a version with lego from my childhood, for my Nikon D800 and Sigma 150mm, so that when I "expand" the lego, it gives me nearly full frame on the D700 with the film in the negative holder. I don't need to fiddle with the film to camera distance, and I can do it on a flat surface without a tripod. I haven't experimented with my M43 gear though.... I did use the E-M1 MKII to "scan" my 645 films though but I usually shoot 35mm with my Olympus OMs so I use my Nikon to do my scanning since it's full res as opposed to crop with my M43. But you mentioned Hi Res which is probably something I should look into
Legos are good for many things! Do you happen to have a photo of that somewhere?
Lots of info. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Comprehensive. . . I particularly like the concept of using a slide copier and removing the inferior optics.
Really good and clear presentation.
Thank you!
I used a light table as my light source. For the camera mount I used a plumbing 3" screw joint so I could adjust the height. I cut out a hole in a piece of cardboard for the slide and took pictures of the slides. It wasn't perfect, but it was faster than the slide scanners and the resolution was very good. I did have to crop out the black areas. Some of the pictures are from 1946, when my Dad was stationed in Paris after WWII. There is a great shot of Place de Concorde with 4 or 5 cars and some pedestrians strolling across the street. Also the beach at Honolulu with one hotel and no people. Lots of fun to see these images.
Sounds great! Old images are fun to watch.
some great tips and ideas there, thanks. I did try out my own copier years ago, a black card with a 35mm hole and glued on mount to position the slide correctly. I used a Nikkor macro lens on my D700 (I still have that and I'm taking on board your tips to give it another go). The only difference is LED lights were not really available so I used my nikon flash off camera, behind the slide and inside a small diffuser. good results but I think a dedicated copier is better and I like the LED you used. I was thinking of stopping down quite a lot, because DoF is so low in my nikkor lens that a curved slide would be oof. not sure, might try out different settings. miles faster than my old nikon slide copier and my canon flatbed scanner.
Hi Peter! Good Video! I scan my old slides with Oly 5 Mark II, 30mm Macro lens and Nikon ES-1 slide Adapter with very good results. In lightroom I can develolp the RAWs. Kind regards, Johannes
Sounds great! Thanks for sharing.
The method I intend to try is using a slide copier and bellows from the Pen F film camera system that I bought used. I was thinking of using an incandescent light source to get full spectrum illumination. Fortunately I am retired and have lots of time on my hands.
Thank you so much for the inspiration. After viewing your video, I got the impulse to make my own quick and dirty two-pence system for scanning my slides. I'm definitely for "good enough" solutions. Mine works great with : a compact Panasonic Lumix LX3 (9mgPxl), a bloc of styrofoam (for stabilizing and adjusting the 1 cm distance between the lens and the slide) and the screen of my laptop (set at maximaum brillance, as the source of light).
Wonderful!
@@ForsgardPeter My elcheapo Micky Mouse method as opposed to my Pooaroid 4000 scanner...
flic.kr/p/23pAT8h from #FlickrSpelio..
Peter, thank you for yet another useful and insightful video which I only just came across (I subscribe but haven't gone through all your back catalogue yet). I was wondering if I could use my 12-40 F/2.8 and a tube as I don't have a macro lens or the Olympus extension parts. The 12-40 will focus down to 20cm even at 40mm I believe. If you don't know then that's fine, I'll just have to give it a try :)
Awesome!
great video my friend .
Am digitizing several images. Focusing tip - shoot w/emulsion side facing camera and focus on the film emulsion - then reverse in post. Color correction is most difficult part of digitizing slides, in my view; have lots of 40 yr old Extachrome slides that faded over the years; makes color correction a chore. Reversal of B&W negatives seems to work ok in post. Look forward to your follow up vid and how you handled colors.
Thanks for the great tip! I will mention that and credit you in my follow up video.
THANKS! I bought the Kaiser tool. Here are my settings for Kodachrome 64: EM1-MkIII, Oly 1.8/45, 37-52 step-up ring. RAW capture. Light: PHILIPS LED Wake-up light, max power. WB: lightbulb. Aperture priority at f/8, push the histogram to the right just avoiding highlight clipping. Post Process: recover highlights 20-50%, REDUCE contrast 10% or so, recover shadows as needed (rarely), increase colour saturation as needed, fix WB as needed. I had little problem with dust, just used a lens brush and a rubber air-blower.
Thanks for sharing your workflow. Yes I know, dust is the biggest problem. It is a lot of work.
Thanks , nice tip, time for me to digitize my tons of old slides now 😅
Great to hear, it is exciting. From how many years you have those slides.
@@ForsgardPeter ooooo ages, since before I did A levels in the UK , back in the 90's
Thank you Peter. I have a small Logan light box and I'm using my Zuiko 60mm macro lens for slide copying. Your video is really helpful. I find that using the histogram to fine-tune the exposure is helpful.
Ed Cox perfect lens for this work. I use f5.6 for sharpest results.
Gino Vairo Thank you Gino. I agree.
Great to hear.
Peter, good topic ....
Thanks.
Very well done video Peter . . . I must check out your hints for dealing with the Orange Mask in colour Neg materials . . . .I learned my trade on 4"x5" gear, initially MPP Mk7 (and monorail) and Gandolfi wood and Brass variants . . . . Later on I moved to 4" x 5" Sinar - and Olympus OM2 and OM4, and finally Nikon F Phot FTN - I now have a Nikon DSLR (5200). About Kodachrome . . . . . Kodachrome was UNIQUE in as much as it was a "non-substantive" film. The colour couplers were NOT resident in the camera stock . . . . In essence - it's a monochrome film . . . The colours were resident in the processing lines at the licenced Labs that processed it . . . ALL the other colour reversal films (Ektachrome, Agfachrome Fujichrome et al) have the colour couplers IN the Camera Stock - which explains why they were never as sharp as Kodachrome . . . . . This is bourne out by the Fact that "National Geographic Magazine" would only accept Medium Format Trannies. . . . the ONLY exception being 35mm Kodachrome 🤗 . . . I guess that in the Digital World - this is now much simplified . . . . .
Good info. On certain Nikons (others may have this also) there is a built in negative to positive converter for shooting negative film, so you dont have to flip it in lightroom.
Thanks for the info. Quite handy feature.
I use a Nikon DX DSLR, ES-1 Adapter and the Nikkor 40-mm Macro DX Lens. It's very quick to digitise slides. I can copy 3-4 a minute using this setup.
Sounds like a good solution.
I 'm no photographer but I understand some film shooter shoots film because of the look that is very different from bayer filter look. So why then subjecting your film to the bayer filter interpolation instead of buying or using affordable full rgb color dedicated scanner.
Thanks for the great tips on slide copying. But as for the sharpness issue: Back in the 80's, I shot Kodachrome 64 and 25 with Leica lenses. Those lenses abilities to resolve surpassed even the grain of the film stock, so that the film grain was the limiting factor to sharpness. And... especially with the 25 (and Panatomic-X negatives in B&W, for that matter)... I find the grain resolution of these slides to rival the abilities of a modern 24MP digital image.
Not so much with Ektachrome and other slide films, which seem to me far grainier.
Did that two decades ago with a Minolta Dimage scanner that could handle 120 as well as 135. 😊
My Minolta Dimage can handle only 35mm film. I used a flat bed scanner.
Thank you very much for this video. Please can you summarise the ideal setting for the camera: f-stop, ISO and speed, and also I couldn't catch the name of the slide holder fixed to the end of your camera lens, please? Thank you!
The slide copier is Kaiser. There are other brands also available. I would stop down 2/3 one stop, the shutter speeds depends on the light source. It works the same way as in any type photography. ISO I would keep as low as possible and would keep ISO200. If you to L64 and L100 the dynamic range is a bit less. Slides are quite contrasty and you need all the dynamic range you can have.
I have the Nikon copier ES-2 and usually use it with a crop-sensor Nikon and the Nikkor 40mm lens. It also works well on Olympus with the 30mm Olympus macro lens and a step-up filter to mount the 52mm slide copier. I find it helps to turn off the IBIS, otherwise the image jumps around on the view finder. It helps a lot to have a RAW file to work with, and I've even done a couple contrasty ones using HDR.
Forgot to add that I use a flash placed behind the ES-2 slide holder for illumination.
A flash is also a good choice for lighting. Should have said that in my video.
I use my E-M1 Mk. I with the 60 mm macro lens on a tripod, the slides are on a Kaiser slimlite plano light box with 5000 Kelvin, postprocessing in Lightroom and the results are very good.
Thanks for sharing.
Vh n nhi
I had been wondering if I get the 60mm Macro lens ( nice to have anyway) if I would need any extension tubes and other paraphenalia and it sounds like not.
Thanks for the video. It's really useful in these days. By the way, you look obsessed with the toilet paper :-D
I am not, but it is useful thing to have!
@@ForsgardPeter :-D
Thanks for this. Just subscribed. I have a full frame mirrorless 35mm camera (Canon R5) and a Laowa 90mm 2:1 macro lens which has 67mm filter threads. I have a 67 to 52 step down ring. Will the Kaiser duplicator you are using work with my gear to copy slides? If so, I'll buy it. I'm unsure about how removing the Kaiser lens, and the length of the tube, will work with my set up.
Great video, I needed this very much. I have the Olympus OM System Slide
copier with rail. I am using the 50mm f3.5 macro lens. The system has
been adapted to the MFT camera I own. I am having trouble getting the
whole slide image, or 35mm negative in the frame. I also have a Accura
zoom duplivar adapted for my Nikon DF, and that works really well. Any
suggestions on the OM system would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice idea. I've already done this using a device I bought for about £50. While locked in I'm scanning my old photo albums. The best I've found is the Google scanning app although I considered using a tripod and my OMD10. Many of the photos were taken with an OM1 and OM10 in the 70s although to be honest they're not that great. I have photos on slides of the Sibelius monument in Helsinki 1977.
Peter Quinn try the Negative Lab Pro app. I use that and it works great as a LightRoom plugin. There’s also FilmLab App which is now bringing out a stand alone desktop app (distinct from their phone app) for film conversions that is getting good reviews (I haven’t used it though).
Sibelius monument is still there. Google scanning app is a good app. Thanks Gino for the tip on FilmLab app. I will check them out.
I see a number of slide duplicator tubes, all with lenses. I cannot tell which ones can have their lens removed without breaking the tube. Which one did you buy?
Thanks Peter, I always find your You-Tube videos to be helpful. This one was a particularly good idea.
... If you are searching for topics to broadcast, may I suggest addressing the custom menus? On both my EM1 mark ii AND on my EM1 mark iii cameras, the C1, C2, C3, (and C4) dial positions correspond to whatever button customizations I chose to store in those line items on the reset menu..... However, I keep getting confused over the options to "Reset" "Assign" "Save" and "Recall" (What is the difference between ASSIGN and SAVE?)… A video on how to set and use the custom menus might be interesting...
…. Also, do you know whether or not Olympus has plans to allow real names to be assigned to the C1, C2, C3, and C4 positions? (I would like to relabel them --- customizable names would be best --- in my case, I'd like wildlife, landscape, portrait, default as my labels)…. I would preset the camera controls for shooting landscape, but if I happened to see a rabbit or squirrel, I could quickly move from C1 to C2 mode choices, and get both pictures!! :-) ). If you have any influence over Olympus, I'd like you to pass on the suggestion for label options under the Reset/Custom Modes menu. Thanks..
Thanks Skip. I will look into that. Sorry that we could not help you with that yesterday on my Live Stream with Rob. Rob said he will also look into this.
Very useful
Thanks. Have you digitized your films or slides?
@@ForsgardPeter I've done some, using a Plustek scanner, but it's very slow and tedious. I have several boxes of stereo slides from the early 1970s that don't fit in that scanner so might try your tips to scan those.
Very good tutorial, thank you. Also a good photo project for staying at home. Does it count as toiletpaper challenge when doing this with a self-made Slide-Holder? 😅
Yes it does! Have you tried it?
@@ForsgardPeter unfortunately I had not the time for the toilet paper challenge as I still have to work from home, but I think after Rob Trek's entry I will pass, it can't be topped 😅 and for the slides: I realized they are at my parent's house, who I don't want to visit because of the virus, but I will definitely try it because giving them to a service for scanning is very expensive and scanning with a flatbed scanner takes weeks 🙈
That other light sources can be used ?. Kiitos for your knowledge Peter.
Which light source you mean?
@@ForsgardPeter A table lamp (perhaps with a special light bulb) flash, something easy and cheap, something that is in the house. (FALCONEYES F 7 AMAZON:170 e + 25 e).?
Thank you Peter -- been researching this on my own recently as well. Even with my 16Mb G85 sensor I should be able to pull pretty much close to the full resolution of most 35mm slides and negatives. As you said one tricky part is reversing color negatives -- can't wait to see your video for that (though I don't use Lightroom or the Olympus software). What model (old) slide copier attachment was that? Stay Safe!!!
Aengus MacNaughton check out Negative Lab Pro (used as a LightRoom plugin) or FilmLab app which is available as a standalone desktop editor. Makes the conversion of colour negatives much simpler. I ‘m a big fan of NLPro. I’ve been using HirRes mode on my OMD EM1 m2 for digitising film and it gives gorgeous results (but big files!) and a clear improvement over the std resolution.
The copier is Kaiser. It does not have any other brand marks. Thanks Gino for the tip about Negative Lab Pro. I will test that too on my follow up video. if there is a tryout version.
@@ginovairo6487 -- I use Cyberlink Photo Director -- it approaches Lightroom in many ways -- but unfortunately it cannot import Lightroom presets (there are some that I would love to get). I would bet that I can figure out (or maybe someone in the Photo Director community has a preset) how to reverse the orange cast of the color negatives.
@@ForsgardPeter -- I had read that using some of the old slide copier adapters designed for 35mm cameras with a M43 adapter would not work correctly because the M43 sensor has the crop, thus the size captured from the slide would have that crop. So I have seen similar ideas about using those old slide copiers but putting extension tubes between the 35mm-mount-to-M43 adapter and the camera. But I think that you are definitely right that using a real M43 macro lens (not cheap!) and removing any built-in lens in the copier will definitely yield better quality.
@@ForsgardPeter -- Oh! Besides reversing the image correctly for color negatives to compensate for the orange cast -- there is the matter of fixing color for faded negatives and slides. So if you have some time in your video -- try converting a faded slide or negative and discuss how to properly correct the color (pull white balance in the software from somewhere in the image that *should* be white???). Thanks Peter!
Would have been a lot better if you had went or showed exactly what your set up was. This is something I have wanted to do for a long time, get my slides into the iMac Photos or LR. I own a 30 & 60mm Macro and a 45 f1.2. I really don't want to spend a lot of time experimenting, I just want a set up that works.
The set up for everyone is different anyways. It depends a lot what other gear you have. The 60mm f2.8 is a worth to try. Just set up the light behind the slide and frame your shot and fire away.
Well, I think most of us have plenty of time to experiment. It's probably the best way to learn.
John Fallows I just finished my setup with my M5- MK III. I started with Nikon ES-1, 60mm Olympus Macro. Needs Extension rings between lens and ES%1 that totals 42mm. I use $15 Daylight LED for my light. Works great for regular slides. I would probably use my scanner for high end slides. I returned 5he ES-1 and bought a used ES-2 on Amazon. The ES-2 has a film holder for negatives and a thumbscrew lock which prevents the ES-2 extension from moving once set. I hope this helps..
Scottishboy1956 producing RAW files with a DSLR offers a significant advantage over domestic scanners for editing. Some of the commercial lab scanners like the frontier or noritsu scanners are great but a good DSLR digitised copy will give them a run for their money. Especially if you are able to use the HiRes mode of Oly cameras.
Good tips. Thanks Peter. One question I have. When copying, does the shiny side of the film or negative go away from the lens or toward the lens?
It does not really matter.
Just saw your video only a couple of days ago.
Great video, as all of your videos ;-).
Tried various lenses (with or without extension tube(s)), and obtained the then 'best' results with the old 12-50mm (in the macro position !).
Then tried both of the 45mm (the 1.2 and the 1.8).
I was wondering why I would not get acceptable results myself when using also the 1.2/45 and the 16mm extension tube.
Then realised that you used 2(!) step-down rings - so you gained some 3mm extra distance between lens und duplicator tube (I just bought a 62mm->52mm).
For me results still were not satisfying (quality of the 1.2/45mm at the absolute minimum distance is IMHO 'not the best', although the lens is 'razor sharp' in general use/portrait), and still needs cropping, so I ordered 52mm extension tubes (lengths 7, 14 and 21mm each) to increase distance between lens and the slide holder, and then will combine them with the 2.8/60mm, which should be the perfect lens for this job.
Will keep you all updated.
Thanks. yes please keep us updated.
Hello Peter,
a really interesting video, thank you very much. Is the mentioned video about negative-processing available? I have looked for it in you channel - but in vain.
Another question: I made a first try myself with an oldfashioned OM-Zuiko 50mm f3.5 macro. But my pictures are definetly less sharp than the original slide (checked with a magnifier). I tried F8, ISO 200 and LF + RAW. Do you have an idea how to get it sharper?
It is this one: czcams.com/video/P13IAlAOWdE/video.html.
It might that the Zuiko 50mm f3.5 is not so called tele centric lens. In the film era it did not matter in which angle the light hits the film. In a digital camera light has to hit the sensor straight so lenses has to be tele centric. The closer you are the more likely it is that the light hits sensor in an angle and that might cause the unsharpnesss.
@@ForsgardPeter
Dear PEter,
many thanks for your reply. Concerning the lens I already thought about this kind of problem, thanks for your hints. At the end I have to invest and get the M.Zuiko 60 mm f2.8 macro. Or do you a better idea? What´s about the 12-50 mm F 3.5-6.3. It is supposed to have macro capabilities.
💥✨💥 Thank you for this info. Exactly what is that Kaiser slide copier? The model, where I can purchase it.???
Here: www.kaiser-fototechnik.de/en/produkte/artikel.php?document=/en/produkte/2_1_produktanzeige.asp&display=1&nr=6506
Hi Peter I was wondering if you are getting better results from this method than you get from your dedicated slide scanner or is it the speed advantage that you prioritise?🙏🏾
I have a bunch of slides & negatives from the late 80s onwards too. I was looking at getting then done professionally - but it's expensive, so despite investigating I haven't invested.
Maybe this is an opportunity to do it 'in house'.
I think it depends on how many, expectation, cost and is there a mix of formats as well. Back then without many choices as today, we often looked at getting either the Nikon or Minolta scanners. For instance, my Minolta Dimage scanner could handle 120, 135 and APS and I had over two decades of stuffs.
I have not really tested using camera vs. a film scanner. I did get ok results with the scanner back in the days, but I find that I can get the same results a lot faster and easier.
Thanks Peter, I understand you are satisfied more for convenience and that, for you there was too little of a difference for you to stick to your Minolta scanner. If you decide there are some slides or negs (35mm) that deserve an even better scan I have a tip. Back in the day I scanned my whole slide archive with the Nikon coolscan (25000 skr). then many years later I rescanned all with the Minolta Dimagescan II (5000skr), many years passed and I became curious and wondered if the technique you showed in your video would surpass my old scans. I dug out my old scanner from the loft to set up a comparison, however, it’s scanner light had stopped working so I did some research to see what was available to buy today. There were less than a handful of scanners that seemed worth buying but one model kept being mentioned time and time again on the scanner websites and CZcams reviews; it was the Plustek Opticfilm 8200i scanner, a company that was unknown to me and the price (under 4000skr) was cheep enough that I thought I had nothing to loose by trying it. To say that I was blown away by how far technology had come since the Minolta days would be an understatement, the Plustek in combination with Vuescan software is so good that I am now on my third rescan of my entire archive. A long and arduous task but truly worth it, I have yet to try your set up and compare which is why I was curious to know your results. 🙏🏾
Thanks for sharing your workflow. I have not tried the newest scanners and my knowledge of the quality is from the era of my Minolta Image scanner. Would like to hear your opinion after you have make copies with a camera.
Peter, Do we have the slide oriented so that the emulsion side is towards the camera lens?
In my opinion it does not really matter. If it is the "wrong" way you just have to flip it in post.
Hi peter, I don’t have a macro lens but can a 12-40 pro with macro adaptor work with this scanning tool?
Extension tubes are one solution. Quite inexpensive and works very well.
Kiitos Milwaukeesta
hi from spain! do I need a macro? I wanf to digitalize my 35 negatives. I have nikon d750 and prime lenses: 35,50,85. I have seen a panagor zoom slide duplicator. But would be the best way to do it? atach to camera or to a lense (no macro)? thanks for your time
You do not necessarily need a macro. Panagor sounds good. If you can get a hold of extension tubes. This will make the lens focus closer.
@@ForsgardPeter ok, so this panagor will act as a macro? what is the sense od adding extension tubes? thanks for your rapid response
Dear Peter,
it´s me again. Basically you show 2 different approaches - either with the Kaiser or with a light plate and camera downwards on a tripod. Which one do you recommend? I tried the latter one. It is flexible concerning lens and settings, but somewhat difficult to adjust. I assume with the Kaiser it might be easier - but either it works with the lens and the given distance, or it does not. Did it work allright with the 30mm Macro shown in the video? I have no precise measurements of the Kaiser. They say it is 125mm long.
I got an 12-50mm 3.5-6.3 in the meantime. The quality of the pictures is better, in high res mode I see the film grain. Which lens can you recommend with the Kaiser?
Thank you once more for the video. There is a lot of stuff about digitizing in the net - but only very little with MFT cameras. I have looked the video several times in the meantime.
Both are good methods. I personally prefer the Kaiser. The other method is ok too. With Kaiser i have used different lenses and none are perfect. 60mm is a bit too long and 30mm a bit too short. 45mm is about the best one. Without Kaiser it is easier to adjust the cropping. Also it does not require any extra gear.
I’ve done some test: nikon d90 with nikkor 55mm some slides and an Rx visor. The first trouble I found out has been with the with balance. The colours came out very different. I tried to premeasure, I tried to change it manually but the colours still look too different . Any tip?
Use the same white balance as your light source. That should help.
@@ForsgardPeter Fixed😃.I War doing something wrong. Thank you
You didn't say what F stop one should use. Also many digital cameras profiles like portraiture, landscape etc. Should we use landscape because it's sharper?
Stop down a stop or two. That will give you the best results. Profiles are not that much about sharpness. They more about color saturation and contrast.
Thx Peter, Planning todo this with extension tubes and use my em1 mk3 to scan some 35mm film. Question: How do you invert the histogram in Workspace?
I will post a video about today.
@@ForsgardPeter Thx Peter, know how to do the histogram reversal in Capture One but not in Workspace, so it would be a great help. em1mk3 .ORF files is currently not supported in Capture One or my Mac. (I am doing B&W)
Using curves and reversing them is the way to fix the image colorcast. I will show how to do it in Workspace in my video about fixing color negatives.
I feel like we've all been making the same video this week 😅😅
Yes it seems that way. 😀
My Nikon Super Coolscan 8000 ED is still my go-to way of digitizing negatives, especially my medium format Hasselblad negatives but I also have a PS-6 slide/strip film attachment for my PB-6 bellows which also works well with the D850 and 55mm f/2.8 AIS Micro Nikkor. Flatbed scanners are a decent, though not a very alternative to a dedicated scanner, especially if you use glass film holders like I do with my 8000. If I have a lot of Hassy negatives to digitize I tape the strip to my light table to ensure it lies flat and light them from below with a strobe. For this kind of critical work, a color meter (I use a Minolta IIIf color meter) is essential. I never trust the D850 presets, they may be close but not close enough for critical work.
Thanks for sharing.
👍
How do you fix the slide copier to the lens?
With an adapter. It is T-mount to MFT on this particular adapter. Sometimes the adapter is not attached and I photograph through it.
@@ForsgardPeter Thanks. I thought that you were attaching it to the front of a lens.
wow you travel all the world, before i was born... hahah
I did my share when I was young.
Takes ages to get to the point !!
Sorry to hear.
I'm 5 minutes into your video and you still haven't told me anything. Gotta go.
Sorry that I was not able do a good job with this video.