I found a limit of Stock K24! What happend to my engine!? k24 max power stock internals
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Lets have a quick look at what might have happened to my stock k24 engine after the catastrophic failure. k24 max power stock internals
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Dang it! Can’t wait to see on the track again . 👍❤️🇨🇦
me too
Nice disconnecting rod! Teardowns of spectacularly failed engines are really popular on the I Do Cars channel. I like the Clockwise Motion baffled sump insert, it's a really nice piece, it's for the K20 alloy oil pan.
Thanks for the info!
i used to use the clockwise motion sump baffle
when start to get extra g force from aero it struggled to cope had a big end fail
the best option is dry sump for race cars when you start getting much over 1g
Hi Ruskiweld; thicker headgasket = placing the head higher on the block = affecting your camshaft positions by a small bit. If you are using the standard camshaft timing belt wheels without possibility to adjust, your cam positions will be affected. We have had exacly the same issue when doing this on our b18C4 block. So most probably you will also need adustable cam wheels to br able to compensate.
great info! thank you
Idk what mean stock.
But without forging element ~500 is max if you dont wanna do 20 drag races and 5 top speed trials b4 breakdown of engine
agree
L19 studs with bare hands oops :D Hope it all goes well man! Can't wait to see this ripping properly!!
jesus how come everyone knew about this bare hands thing but not me!!!!
@@RuskiWeldFab TBF I found out randomly from the Torque Test Channel!
Hi
You made mistake L19 you should not tuch with bare hand.
Like most high strength, quench and temper steels - L19 requires special care during manufacturing to avoid hydrogen embrittlement. This material is easily contaminated and subject to stress corrosion. It must be kept well-oiled and not exposed to moisture.
Try to avoid any more kontakt with the screes.
I cant wait how is going to be with the new engine 😁
wow didnt know that! i be very carefull now not to touch!
Yeah grease from your skin can affect L19 studs/bolts.
You shouldn't touch the L19 bolds without the glowes.They are extremly sucepteble to rust..Especialy if you neglect the oil in the car.
now you telling me 😁
@@RuskiWeldFab
You should first make a video and the touch the bolts😀.
Clean it with alcohol and then relub them.
Common knowledge you can't touch l19 bolts without gloves....TAF
It really isn’t that common 🫣
Can we see the big end journal and bearings on cylinder 4 please. As it was making a noise 30 seconds before it let go
i am not wasting more time digging deeper. not worth my time sorry
@@RuskiWeldFab define wasting time
wasting time is looking for clues that might not lead me anywhere. all the components that failed will be replaced on new engine anyways.
L19 + moisture causes metal embrittlement
well now i know
@@RuskiWeldFab good videos keep them coming
cheers
Honda conrods?! Carillo or Pankl.
K1 i believe
@@RuskiWeldFab ok, try and pray..
How much power was it making?
I guess I missed the dyno video .
I had my rotrex k24a4 detuned to 379whp ran it for about 8 years until started to use a bit of coolant. Bought last year a stock jdm k24a again detuned it for road racing on e85 using boost control on the supercharger because otherwise it would make mid 500whp. Reason I ask about how much power you were making.
What i can tell is your shifts were harsh & no oil baffle pan. So who knows maybe those 2 things were the culprit.
Love what you do. keep wrenching my friend.👍
dyno video not out yet. it was tuned to 412 essentialy on gate pressure to test.
@@RuskiWeldFab by the way I use the summit racing baffled oil pan. At least here in the states is the most cost effective & holds 7 quarts of oil. I think with the components you mentioned you should be ok at that power level. My friend is at 550whp on a turbo time attack AWD with I-beam rods & no issues for 2 years other than eating 4th gear :-).
@@RuskiWeldFabwhat fuel and how experienced is your tuner? I've been at 450whp for a year on my daily driver
oh man ...I'm so sorry to see that it let go Ruski. '
The torque transfer during clutch engagement on gear shift'(Into peak or near peak torque RPM) does fall under the category of dynamic loadings which would cause those stock K24 rods to fail. 11 out of 10 scenarios, where elevated torque(especially from forced induction), it is guaranteed that the rods will not cope with the loadings. I did mention this to you on the video where you unveiled the Honda power plant was to be used.
I know people like to say how cheap and readily available these engines are ...but there are still a finite number fo them out in the wild. Those engines are very capable to produce the power. Take this as a learning event for sure ...and rebuild with capable components to really have the Fastest Clio!! ...All the best!!
edit: If you had an oil cooler fitted, you're gonna have to replace it along with all the associated flexible lines due to contamination.
how have you solved the issue of torque transfer during clutch engagement ,This seems to cause allot of K24 failures . even if there engines are built
@@RSADYNAMICS first off, there are 'built' engines ...and 'built' engines. The killer with the K24 engines is the stroke length, and a rather weak 'light-weight' rod design used for its OEM projected HP/Trq levels. As usual with the prolific aftermarket supply of performance oriented parts, there are loads of options for the reciprocating components. Sourcing the right parts for what is intended in the 'build' is priority. The K Series engines do also suffer with vibration/harmonics that can cause significant problems which will lead to failures. Hence the reason Honda fitted an integral Oil pump/Balance shaft setup from the factory. The TypeR/S oil Pump is more desirable because it has better oil delivery, so many swap out the OE oil pump for the Type R. This elevates the Vibration issues. Best bet is to fit a Super Damper(fluid filled) Crank damper to help with this issue. The I beam Rods which Ruski is sourcing are lighter than the H beam rods, but again don't handle the kind of Torque that an H Beam rod will handle, so maybe start with some quality H beam Rods. Appropriate spec'd pistons(based on desired HP, Fuel available, racing class, etc.). A very experienced builder that has experience with K series builds for sure.
I can continue, but this comment will go on for hours, ha! Have a look next door to see what others who have had success ...mind you, not just take joe from the internet's advise ...find out what successful teams have been using. Good luck, and remember ...motorsport ain't safe, and it ain't cheap!
@@danielcgomez I am building a Subaru with a K24 engine I bought. I have already got a harmonic dampener and a 2000 oil pump. I’ve seen people do this build and it always fails. My guess is the rod to stroke ratio is not ideal and the engine needs to be destroyed to 2.2 L using a different crankshaft for the S 2000 or custom. This will stop the side loading on the cylinder walls and prevent the engine from catastrophic failure . I am also going to use a anti surge tank
А пластину поддержки цилиндров поставить?
да нафиг надо
💔 'Promosm'
First
why did you go with k24? This engine is useless for what you want unless you set limiter at 7000rpm. You need k20 engine in there
quite a big statement lol. please explain about limiter at 7000 also please explain what i want it for and why is it uselss?
@@RuskiWeldFab past 7000 rpm you are in "to fast piston speed range". Under boost on track it doesn't take long to accumulate metal fatigue for piston to breake.
You will be looking at another engine swap in no time.
It is just how k24 was designed... To big of a stroke, to large of piston surface... There is no helping it... You can mitigate some of that with hi quality forged pistons but on k20 you dont have to deal with any of that and building reliable stock 400-500hp makes more sense than what you are attempting to do.