Copper vs Aluminium VRAM Heat Sinks
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2018
- Which one to get, copper or aluminum? Lets take a quick look!
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Very few DIY cooling vids out here lol. This helped with my VRM issues on my ITX board. Dropped it about 10 celsius and stopped the runaway temps. nice hidden find.
Thanks for watching!
Buddy did you use the copper or aluminum on your vrm motherboard i need to put some on mine and im desperate looking for information my vrm goes to 57 60 degrees under load i'm afraid of burn this thing.
@@mr.schaeffer5399 60? thats barely even warm!
at least for PC equipment
@@virtualtools_3021 Hmm yeah but it's 60 on HW monitor the real temperature can be 30 degrees more easily because i didn't measure with a real thermal camera, and with my overclocks i don't see an improvement in performance maybe because of that.
heat dispersion is also about overall surface area of the radiating medium. Seeing how tiny the copper heatsinks were compared to the aluminum, I am pretty impressed.
I've used that 3M tape to attach additional heatsinks to the backplate of the VRM heatsink on an old Asus P8Z77-V MB (unsually it has 3 of its 8 pairs of VRM mosfets on the back of the PCB, hence under that backplate). It's actually intended as a thermally _stable_ rather than _conductive_ tape but it does work quite well in the latter respect because it's so thin. The afore-mentioned heatsinks (a line of five 20x20x15mm aluminium) get very warm to the touch, and a IR thermometer indicates they get to over at 50°C at their bases, so they're definitely removing some heat. I also found (like you ) that this sticks _enough_ but not too much and is easy to remove without risking damage. Appreciate seeing you confirming that this is a valid method (I'm about to use the same little copper suckers on graphics vram as here).
I am still using this method and it works well especially with graphics cards.
@@TechnologyHive I forgot to mention your use of clamps - great idea - having just RTFM (read the ******* manual!) this is what 3M recommends. I might put the card, with the sinks clamped, into a warm oven (80°C) for an hour to aid sticking.
Do you guys know how I can get my hands on this? There are similar products on Amazon but they are have a fair number of bad reviews, mainly around the adhesive not being strong enough.
Thanks for the video. Doing a hybrid AIO mod for my RX 5700 and wanted to make sure I apply these correctly.
And what came out?
quite interesting, I always appreciate science-based review. sometimes reputed graphic card producers totally forget about VRAM heatsink.
*cough* ASUS *cough*
*It's a very significant improvement if you take into consideration the size difference between the copper and aluminium heat sinks... The copper ones looked (from casual observations) to have way less than half the surface area of the aluminium ones, yet they still out perform the aluminium ones.*
*That's why copper is king in the heat sink world... Unless you can afford fine silver (.999) and you have the time/skill to make a heat sink or two from a couple of fine silver bullion coins... THAT would be an interesting video!*
Copper also has more density. It definitely helps dissipate heat better. Thanks for watching btw!
@@TechnologyHive
*Surface area is the relevant factor here.*
I think metals like gold and platinum conduct heat best and metals like aluminium and nickel dissipate heat best. So royal metals are best at conducting and unroyal metals are best at dissipating heat. That is also the reason that cpu coolers have a copper base with copper heat pipes and aluminum fans. What if you go an extreme route? And expensive but interesting experiment...
@@TechnologyHive disagree cos you measured wrong you were measuring the heat sink so that means
the aluminum was hotter meaning it was pulling out more heat from the vram that means the heat sink into the aluminum more and faster to draw out the heat how it should, were the copper will do it slower and keep it more in.
real test would be 1 hour pc run time then measure
,then turn off pc and remeasure in 10 minuets -
@@Jozavenue Yeah, or at least - measuring the surface heat at the heat-sink is without value unless you also read off the internal temperatures. It's easy enough to do with free software.
copper transfers heat faster thru itself (better transfer and absorption), but aluminum dissipates heat faster into the air, that's why the core of the heatsink is copper, while fins are aluminum
That time when you remember your class on thermodynamics and material science. Nicely done there 😁
I have a aluminum frying pan in my kitchen. It cools faster than anything else in my cookwares.
It's ok to cook in aluminum unless it's something highly acidic.
What about a copper aluminum alloy?
Obvious phishing attempt is obvious
Hey, thanks for the vid. Was thinking of doing a custom loop but am going to have to use a cpu block for the die, Ill be doing this mod on my VRAM modules and VRMs on my motherboard
Nice video, thank you for that.
In addition to that the thermal conductivities of the used metals:
Aluminium: 236 W/(mK)
Copper: 401 W/(mK)
So copper get away the warmth nearly twice as good, as aluminium does.
And like the other guy said before: the surface of the copper-heatsinks is smaller. If you take heatsink with lammellas your outcome should be much better.
All depends on following formula:
Q= ^/s * A * delta-T
Energie equals thermal conductivity per way multiplied with surface and temperature difference.
Thanks for this very interesting and pertinent review and comparaison.
Take care of yourself.
Thanks for watching!
Both Copper and aluminium are great for cooling. It is not only about the material, but about surface, air temperature and airflow. Which way are the heat sink "wings" placed etc.
This is actually helping me in design elements of a custom waterblock I am making. I was curious if just making copper bars that bolt to the board would be enough to keep voltage regulator temps safe and that appears to be the case. this could greatly simplify my block design as going over SMD's to attach different zones of the card is difficult and less universal in design.
im in the same boat here, hows it going?
I've built 2 blocks where the SMD contact points are with copper bars attached to the shared top copper plate of the water block. Works flawlessly. You just have to remember the joint solder increases the depth of the bar and you have to account for that in measurements.@@hectororestes2752
hey, you helped me a lot, thanks for your video and your time doing it! :)
I am glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Very interesting ! Thank you for your nice work !!
Glad you liked the video 🙂
@@TechnologyHive I see that you used 3M 9448A tape.
where did you get it ? I searched on 3M website, but it's rather strange : nowhere we can find the exact Thermal Conductivity (something like XXX W/m-K) value ..... What is the width of this Double Coated Tissue Tape ??
Dude i love , iam modding my loud rtx 2016 and iam hopping to fix both the noise and temperature with a aio and now after vid some vram heatsinks thx u got a like and a sub
Did it worked? I'm thinking in doing something quite similar to my GPU
@@FelixOnn1 it did just make sure u use glue type termic past or else over time they will fall
Would be cool to see you update this video. I think its still relevant, also try adding them to the motherboard heat critical componetnes
Great great review man!!!
Being that the copper has a pretty flat face, what would happen if you put the aluminum heat sink on top of the copper one?
Good test..where did u apply these hear sinks ? And will it make any difference if apply at all black components..
I respect the benchmark and thank you the upload and the work with it.
As I see the difference very small as a theroetical calculation would be: 1. DRAM modules power consumption is little 2. To suggest the power the surface is big -> EZ to cool, so in this case a margin of difference between of Al and Cu.
What I would test: LAPING the DRAM plastic surface. That would be another very interesting benchmark.
Thanks for watching!
If i could see differences between the stock glow that comes with the fins vs the tape
Amazing test ! Very Like !
Thx for the useful video!
i ordered 12 of similar ones like yours but i wanna put em on top of a back plate of my water cooled gpu, under heavy load back plate tend to run ass hot, back fan set as intake helps a lot bringing temps down, but i want to move it step further putting proper heat sinks on backplate for more surface area.
In that case I would have ordered something a bit bigger, since you have an exhaust fan moving air out. But perhaps the small ones help 😊👍
Hi. Do you need two heatsinks for M.2 NVME (one for the bottom and one for the top? What's the thickness in mm for both heatsinks?)? And should we remove the sticker for better contact with the thermal pad?
What's the thickness in mm is the big heatsink you used in this video?
Thank you.
God bless, Revelation 21:4
Hey, I really love your GPU mod. I´m going to do that to a Vega 64.
that's 20% improvement, pretty sweet
how if you put it from the side, so there are 2 heatsink for 1 vrm, also it will be higher
Nice video bro, I would like to know where did you buy your gpu cooler! Thank you.
This one I bought from an online store in my country. I live in Norway. Store is called Proshop.no
i have a ps4 fat 16 vram each one 512mb 8 on the back and 8 on front both sides i want to use copper thermal pads 1mm thickness problem that i dont know how to make the pads stable on both sides thermal paste won't make it sticky any advice ?
I have heard you need almost a third more surface area to get the same cooling out of aluminum. Thats why more fins in aluminum radiator than copper. Anodized aluminum is just for looks and cools slightly worse than bare aluminum. And corroded aluminium cools worse than anodized. The thicker the metal the longer it takes to heat and cool. More fingers and thinner work better. That's why aluminum blade type heat sinks. More surface area contact with air or liquid the better to dissipate heat. Like when the geographical pole is overland we have ice ages. Now that its over the arctic oceans it dissipates the cold making planet warmer. When it reaches Siberia we will see global cooling as it makes ice sheets their. Its all about the surface area and how well the heat or cold transfers.
Exactly if it absorbs heat better it has to release better otherwise you'd break the laws of thermal dynamics. The biggest reason companies use aluminium is cost and ease of manufacture which subsequently lowers cost.
true but then it all ends up being a factor of cost as well xD Aluminum is way cheaper than copper so I guess it ends up becoming a cost issue for manufacturing xD
Why 3M 9448A? It's just a short-chain acrylic adhesive with no thermally conductive filler. 0.1mm thermal adhesive pads don't have quite the holding power of acrylic, but they should conduct heat better, and they do hold well enough for small heatsinks like all of these. That being said, normal double sided tape or this 3M does work in a pinch, because it's mostly liquid, it maintains some thermal conductivity, it's just not all that ideal. But you should keep this in mind, because you're adding up thermal impedances, thermal impedance of die to IC case, case to tape, tape volume, tape to heatsink, heatsink to air; you task is to evaluate the sum of heatsink related impedances, but it's likely swamped by the impedance of 3M tape. That being said that is still likely to be an improvement over the direct impedance of carbon epoxy IC casing to air.
Thermal adhesive glue is actually remarkably bad compared to paste and even fairly cheap 1W/mK thermal tape. There's basically never a reason to use it, unless you actually want things to never come apart no matter what.
Aim the pyrometer laser above where you're measuring temperature, as there is an offset between the laser and the IR optics. Always make sure the complete sensor frustum is pointing at organic surfaces, never at metal. Of course with pins and such you can't quite avoid it, but you can do your best, in particular you should never try to measure on heatsinks, as they are reflective in the measurement range. PCB solderstop lacquer has infrared emissivity in pyrometer's IR measurement range of around 0.95, for which the pyrometer shows the correct temperature value; aluminium has emissivity of around 0.1-0.4, depends on surface treatment (depth of eloxation), and copper has emissivity of less than 0.03, so it's basically invisible. When you point your laser at the edge of the card like that, most of the thermal optics frustum is on the heatsink below. In your measurement that you do later with stick on heatsinks on, nothing you measure makes any sense at all - the lower measurement on copper might as well be explained by its lower emissivity (and higher reflectivity) in the specific measurement range of the pyrometer, rather than the actual temperature difference. If you have to measure a temperature at a heatsink you have to get a K-type thermocouple, and you can glue it right to the side of the chip with some thermal paste and some Kapton tape to hold it in place, or the PCB there, just make sure not to short something. You can then figure out whether the heatsinks were an improvement by measuring this nearby temperature instead.
As a rule of thumb, you usually need an aluminium heatsink about twice the size of copper one to reach the same performance, and with geometry adjustments; i wager a guess, the heatsinks shown are insanely close to each other in terms of their °C/W value.
Arctic alumina adhesive has a thermal conductivity of 9.5w/mk which is better than quite a few pastes out there though it is permanent there is a way to make it semi permanent by mixing 2parts adhesive to 1 part paste!
@@AutodidactEngineer Never trust the spec values coming from consumer oriented companies, they are, with a few scant exceptions, complete garbage! Pulled right out of their behind. For years Arctic Silver Inc (this very same company) have claimed that AS-5 has a thermal conductivity of what, 8.7W/mK, right? In independent testing, it has been shown to be right around 1W/mK.
The design of the heatsinks matters such as much as the material used, as well as the overall surface area. A small Al heatsink with several long fins will cool better than an equally small Cu heatsink with a few short thick fins.
Yes that is a factor to concider also, as well as the material it is made from. It is for this reason that most heat sinks today are a mix of both copper and aluminum. Copper absorbs the heat better than aluminum, but aluminum radiates heat better into the air than copper. The designs are important as well! Thx for watching.
@@TechnologyHive but ur findings show Al was 45° and Cu was 43° (cooler since it radiated better)
What tape is he using I want to try it on my ASUS H410M-E Mobo VRM
So the copper ones were actually smaller & did better slightly so if they were same size (about 3x) you might get 12 deg cooler instead 2 at the MOST
I think so. But it was difficult finding them all the same size so had to work with what I had if you know what I mean. 👍
Would have been good to see what the software was pickign up from the temps too. Obviously the extra surface area helps the aluminium, though I am going to do it with the aluminium because the lighter weight should mean it will not fall off the tape which is pretty shitty- as they will be upside down. Also going to think put a small fan blowing horizontally to get direct flow in there, making sure not to interfere negatively with the gpu's fan and wind direction.
Nice video thanks
hi , i'm here from 8/2020 building my custom cooling rig for my pc .
the first wrong something you did in this video is comparing 2 different material with not fair factor . the factor is the two material must be with the same surface size that exposed to air flow . you picked two different shapes with two different surface size . i'm keep watching ..
Hello what is the actual size of the mini copper heat sink? Thanks!
Copper is ALWAYS better for three reasons. 1-It has much better conductivity, can move heat further and faster. 2-It has more density and therefore more mass for the same size. 3-It is more malleable and less likely to vibrate in sync with chokes in the VRMs which may be close by.
I combine both but copper in the bottom is not bumping or flat join with alumunium up dont know how much celcius down
If you want more peformance just use thermal glue. Because its more more thin and fill the air gap more efficient
Very true. Just make sure to find the right stuff.
which the best for hashborad asic ? and which better for gpu?
Hey. Nice Test. I think, the Alu Headsinks arethe better tip, than copper can oxidation, and what is, when the Cu is green :-)
It's a good point especially in humid environments 👍
Your measuring the temp of the Heat Sinks or the Chip itself i wonder ?
Good video, thx for this
Glad you liked it!
There's a kit of 100pcs on amazon (mixed sizes). So i will be heatsinking everything . Why..bcos.
what kind of tape is it? how can I find it? thank you!
And silver ...normaly better reflectance ,and het conductivoty then both copper and aluminium.
A bit more expensive...but hey how ´cooln would that be ?
Great job
What if you use thermal pad in place of double tape?
What tape is he using I want to try it on my ASUS H410M-E Mobo VRM
@@aravindraja8034 Double Sided Mounting Tape 1”x 32.8 Ft 3M 9448A Double Coated Tissue Tape Strong Adhesive Heavy Duty Transfer DIY Tape White Color for LED Strip Light Office Home Car Décor(9448AB)
Great video
Thanks!
What tape is it?
I use nickel, sometimes copper...get down with the thickness!
I have since found a better option: www.amazon.com/Thermal-Adhesive-Performance-Heatsink-Computer/dp/B085CLXM7J/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=thermal%2Btape&sr=8-3&th=1
It does not matter to me where you buy it. This stuff works better.
Are all the VRAMs measures the same? I mean if i buy those copper heatsinks, they probably have the size of the VRAMs? Wich measures should i buy?
They are pretty generic in size. 7- 10mm is the average size which works well for vram chips.
thanks for the vid.
Thanks for watching it!
Are these tiny heatsinks good for regular RAM? like better than the shroud type heatsinks?
Yes they perform better than the typical heatspreader on most kits.
What is type of COPPER for a heat sink when precision CNC machining is required
Telurium Copper is typically used for CNC machinist.
thank you very much for your efforts. you've just solved all my doubts about gpu cooling!
Nice man. Glad it was helpful 😊
I'm sorry to bother you but I have a favour to ask. I'm seeing a ton of ceramic heatsink listings on AliExpress, eBay, etc. Could you run a test with those versus the copper and aluminum ones? Thank you for the great video by the way. I subscribed! :D
Ceramic is an insulator.
@@TechnologyHive That depends entirely on their composition. They are typically good electrical insulators, and some compositions are very good for thermal conduction.
if you want thermal conductivity and efficient at that, shouldn't the aluminum be painted or colored white?
It doesn't matter since it's just absorbing heat through conductivity, not through light.
the reason they use aluminum is because its WAY cheaper.
disagree cos he measured wrong he was measuring the heat sink so that means
the aluminum was hotter meaning it was pulling out more heat from the vram that means the heat sink into the aluminum more and faster to draw out the heat how it should, were the copper will do it slower and keep it more in.
real test would be 1 hour pc run time then measure
,then turn off pc and remeasure in 10 minuets -
@@Jozavenue do you are aluminum fanboy or what? oO i'm looking for a solution for my VRM but everywhere i goes i only see people bashing the aluminum and praising copper you are the only one saying the opposite.
@@Jozavenue He measured the back side of the PCB where the chips are soldered to and not the heat sink. So the measurement was accurate. Only flaw I can see is that the heat sinks have a different designs.
For anyone interested in buying those things
enzotechnology.com/air_cooling.htm
btw is that possible to have vram heatsink inside gpu waterblock?
Hmm, I think the infrared temperature meter meters the temperature so large area that this is not accurate. The red laser dot is there to just throw aim in the right direction.
disagree cos he measured wrong he was measuring the heat sink so that means
the aluminum was hotter meaning it was pulling out more heat from the vram that means the heat sink into the aluminum more and faster to draw out the heat how it should, were the copper will do it slower and keep it more in.
real test would be 1 hour pc run time then measure
,then turn off pc and remeasure in 10 minuets -
Please link or name the tape please!
So thermal tape is pretty much just as good as thermal glue but more convenient?
if you get the good stuff. (3M brand)
Nice keyboard by the way... i got one just like that !!! 😎
It's nice 🙂
My vram uses the radiator via thermal pad to get cooler but the pcb on the other side is pretty hot when I stress the gpu. Would it improve things if I stuck heatsinks on the other side, directly on the pcb? That would overlap with other tiny components too and not make a good contact but wouldn't it be better than nothing?
I wouldn't do that, but you can if you want of course. I'd look for another way to drop temperatures. I no longer have my computer parts inside a case anymore and this alone I'm proved temperatures by around 10-15 degrees.
@@TechnologyHive Thank you for the suggestion. It was open before but my cat always made me nervous when she was around. I may try a couple of fans directed toward the back plate then.
@@chongtak that's what I would do to be honest. 👍
@@TechnologyHive Thanks for your answers, you've earned a new suscriber.
@@chongtak Thank you ☺
anyone know why, after i replace my thermal pad
it keep rebooting what happen ??
I'm sorry to hear this. Is this on a video card? It could be many things. You may have damaged a component during the assembly or disassembly of the card's cooler. Another potential reason might be that you've used an incorrect pad thickness for the specific component. If the pad is thinner than it should be, it will not make good contact with the metal contact surface of the cooler.
nice content
hey, what is that huge aluminum heatsink in your video?
Hi. It's the Arctic Mono plus gpu heatsink.
Should I use a specific tape for this?
Look online for the right tape to use with these. You don't want anything too thick. www.ebay.com/itm/Japan-SEKISUI-5760-Double-sided-Thermal-conductive-Adhesive-Tape-for-Heatsink/171112683534?epid=753204017&hash=item27d71c580e:g:xwkAAOSwDdNaskkm
Can't find the links in the description to buy these products man
I believe the seller on eBay no longer has them available. I could be wrong.
What is the name of the 3 m tape? Thanks
I have since switched to a better tape: www.amazon.com/Adhesive-10mmx25mx0-25mm-Thermally-Conductive-Computer/dp/B08MZGJCGB/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=thermal%2Btape&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
Try this. Copper plating + alluminum heatsinks
Nice, could you post the exact model for that 3m tape? Appreciate
www.ebay.com/itm/1-Meter-20mm-25mm-40mm-Width-3M9448A-Double-Coated-Tissue-Tape-Thermally/174568845969?hash=item28a51d3291:g:DxoAAOSwwSpf4k~h
@@TechnologyHive Thank you..
Ps5?
I wonder how good of a heatsink I could make with aluminum foil 😂 it’s moldable you can wrap it around hot chips if done right. But I’m sure something will short circuit. But would be a nice experiment
Sounds more like a heat trap to me
1.Can avoid tape and use specially fabricated clamp minimum contact.2.oversize heat sink will be better if it fits.
Can you give me some a link please?
Or some references?
I would like to do the same modification on a aorus 1080 ti xtreme edition.
(I'm french)
Nilesh Yalkar I was thinking the same a loose metal in metal contact. But I don’t know much about motherboards. I was also looking into making a custom fan! Heatsink with those small parts and a few laptop fans
link for the heat tape please?
It has been updated. www.ebay.com/itm/194746839962?hash=item2d57d0f39a:g:b~EAAOSw-sBiBiGh&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwP%2BFJ2ledzMaYdmya9Odio33FJstbeIBTPq7tSxsF%2Faz9OVf7nCh8pqe6xDdxGOd34I%2BljtzgLwcsaCzDIA07WpWVJkw6C6zRsVkRlI7yPGYs0pXdAmopq6oLqoAbRjvGqGuinNalCg0qQtu508OvygYIurIqUWLL2XcknHpJ5NfFHY24xCNIEr%2FNT%2Blvdxqlc4JH%2B3y8zHMIUgLDQWP4Sx7dr%2F%2BUdm6tY%2Frq98GOvGBdtgaHyHm7LiHWSlZ4yxEtg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7zm-Ij0YQ
Nice
Thank you!
those guns are useless for this type of measurements, to easy to make an error
get a meter with thin thermocouple and stick it between heatsink and memory
i had one of these, brand new, used only coupple of times.... last time i inserted batery wrong way aaaaand smoke start coming out when i pressed the button :/
I know this is old but I think it would be a much better idea to instead of using singular smaller heatsinks use like a larger slab of heatsink then cut it into shape and use it as one larger piece!
You are right. Unfortunately I do not have the proper machinery for the job. I own a miter saw and a few other metal cutting tools. But the aluminium slabs I have are larger and would require something like a bandsaw to get it all into the right dimensions.
@@TechnologyHive Not having the tools for the job is the worst feeling, when I first started I only had a crappy corded drill and a hacksaw😄.
I can still remember friction drilling with a rusty nail🤣🤣.
Keep these videos coming man, you are awesome!
@@AutodidactEngineer That means a lot!! Thank you for the compliment!! And yes, I agree, the right tools make a huge difference. I'd imagine you'd know how many tools you'll need for a single even small project LOL I will keep the videos coming, thanks again!
What about .925 silver?
I've always wondered that
what tape did he used?
It is sold out. But it's this one. www.ebay.com/p/1831396795?iid=283382186454
What cooler is on the gpu? Damn
It's an Arctic Cooling eSport black.
@@TechnologyHive no. The one on the graphics card, sir. What low profile cpu cooler did you put on it? Seems like "plug and play" mounting.
Oh sorry. I already found your video about it. This cooler no where to be found
@@izzatti7446 ah sorry I misread that. Yes its hard to find nowadays. Best bet is eBay.
I dont think that's conductive tape, it will be better than air, but I guess there are way better tapes out there
It is working just fine at the moment. It sells as thermal conductive tape. But we will see in time if it continues to perform.
@@TechnologyHive I yesterday went down the rabbit hole of tapes and the Parker 412 or 3m 8810 (or 8805, 8815 depending on thickness) seem best. The one you have really is not specifically for heatsinks. It will probably work fine, just like regular tape, but just that it's not designed for it. A little bit up in the page : www.micforg.co.jp/en/cat_tapee.html#t_t412
@@Rombbb Thanks for the tip 😊👍.
Can I cover my laptops copper pipes with these?
Did you find answer?
Yet?
You were making mistakes while measuring temperature. It doesn't read the laser pointer, it reads an inch below that.
Alright alright alriiight.
As far I know Aluminum reflect 95% infrared heat. So, your heatgun showed its cold but it actually block the heat.
I wonder why we use Aluminum as heat sink?
If you look closely, you'll see that he points the gun at the back of the PCB, not the heatsink.
@@bgtubber I got it
@@Taahmim 👍
do you have a link for the tape?
Hello. Yes, here you go: www.ebay.com/itm/5Meter-Long-2cm-Wide-Double-side-Heatsink-Thermal-Adhesive-Tape-for-Heat-Sink/142797051205?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Technology Hive is there one on let's say amazon that ships are quicker? This one says July 21-august 10. That's crazy long wait
You would have to look yourself man. I know of this one only from experience with it. Anything else is not guaranteed.
i disagree cos he measured wrong he was measuring the heat sink so that means
the aluminum was hotter meaning it was pulling out more heat from the vram that means the heat sink into the aluminum more and faster to draw out the heat how it should, were the copper will do it slower and keep it more in.
real test would be 1 hour pc run time then measure
,then turn off pc and remeasure in 10 minuets -
A liquid nitrogen heat sink :D
XD that's pro man!
how does ceramic heatsink perform?
I have never tried them.
Maybe that tape is new but the "3M' tape I used failed on me multiple times when the card cooled down they fell off i also used multi special solvents recommended by 3M lol what a joke i could lost my entire MOBO or PSU F that tape
I recently experienced the same. I'm disappointed at 3M.
I completely disagree cos he measured wrong he was measuring the heat sink so that means
the aluminum was hotter meaning it was pulling out more heat from the vram that means the heat sink into the aluminum more and faster to draw out the heat how it should, were the copper will do it slower and keep it more in.
If you look again, I was measuring the rear side of the memory chip. 👍
I REALLY APPRECIATE this test - BUT I must say that it is an unfair comparison as the Copper sink has More Material & More Surface Area in it's design... A fair test would use sinks that are IDENTICAL in design, where only the materials differ... However - I can still deduce that Aluminium is better, as it does almost the same job as Copper, with less material & a less efficient design - so THANKS again... =]
I could not find anything else similar to each other at the time of video. Today it might be a different story. Maybe I'll update the tests.
@@TechnologyHive I did a check & this is the only one similar to the Copper you used that I found(What the name of the Tape though?): www.ebay.com/itm/114466028230?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1aa6b4fac6:g:kKUAAOSwkmZfiW3I&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSR84A%252FGMxXIqJzFmDq6lDLiVGg7z2YXM79DGcDpKCPO3wOgAk0obDsJAlhzVlapaNf3pxAszKrN7DN7ydnX%252BQjN%252B8UMn%252BRpZqcdf9vB78nsp42tXMdS9AtAC5fX9dSGnsiNP9ZaCoD%252FH3ldlkaSTnhus2U2TVMYQMLTvynpsk1TWgrcASeXrHGJ5LL8nvFtpLTzpjYXt2j2FxwcR9FFXgiDjVm%252Ffcc8SJFFPWwd2lJC2n81wEGzWG55lmcLoJ4MJvrf%252BOou2%252FIdiSo1XgCreQ2JiS04%252Bwogj3X6ncgq4aBlxZ6f%252F9avFDC3cJnJjJJ8g9ucO48meZMt0wCvlmxhkw4l5bdJXVsDd8%252Frae1A2yKFK0GIPWBxNmlgIavTflY1%252B6VElpECLCnxO1L7lNB%252B%252FZI5rMagTKxLB5K7eZFvUk%252FGw0nl8m7BGmo7aob2JLDMu4YzbFuW15BfkfUe%252FrzL1HIIcccTtw8bCFUENjpUa2n3NTB2ZP3cvyxdY06FJTabPN7cYlhIhoFIBli0iNEwEZsqCxvdfWj6KVYv%252FjHsd%252BhnF11c9XhYS9S%252BMb1dKCkSKESgKVcFuGt5oG2SwPb1VqXNH7bgXnI1iiTeXOUtIqfPbp7RWpb2kG5ZPjT4zRr%252Fhr2kDhlK62BWwsaIJ7rLNn4sFXStKlGTJSi%252FRYluowrGcGT7g9ymUbwKF2MPbSqctiulbJwLEctDEJnLtfsA1VFOBXDsMDElgIZdO2LmM7M7JAPIisSlTkeqjabLFB%252B5lvLUmT8cNmT35hE%252BiDsy5TXsYUcXnHIiW8SnINGOtxJpddTX%252B%252Fc%252BMNUfcBcxg9vjw8%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
Using 3M 9448A as thermal glue/tape is horrible advice. It is not designed for heat transfer. Use 3M 8810 instead.
I have since found a different tape that works better. Thanks for the tip anyway.
The copper would only be warranted in certain citiatiosn
If I were a heatsink manufacturer, I would use copper on all base plates. Period. And make the heatsink fins of aluminum. 👍
Copper did better because (i think) it has more mass (heavier). So theoretically it is a bigger sink. Use good quality tape and u be golden. (More like copper color, golden)
disagree cos he measured wrong he was measuring the heat sink so that means
the aluminum was hotter meaning it was pulling out more heat from the vram that means the heat sink into the aluminum more and faster to draw out the heat how it should, were the copper will do it slower and keep it more in.
real test would be 1 hour pc run time then measure
,then turn off pc and remeasure in 10 minuets -
@@Jozavenue But he measure the back of the card not the heatsink itself i think.