This is a quick, basic video showing the quickest and easiest way to add tire sealant to tubeless tires. This applies to all types of tubeless bicycle tires.
Thanks for the video. Worth mentioning is that it's worth to keep the little bottle. It's more eco-friendly and cheaper to buy a large bottle of sealant and use the little one to refill.
That's exactly wot I've done, I bought a big note of stand tire sealant and use the small bottle 2 refill. Only thing I dont get is dont u need 2 spin ur wheel rnd 2 get the sealant 2 go all the way rnd? Like how does it work inside the inner tube?
@@RaikenXion Yes, it's always suggested to spin the wheel and place it sideways (both sides) and spin the wheel in that configuration also, to spread the sealant. Of course, if you're going to be riding very soon it will have the same affect.
Great suggestions below, but missed by all is after removal of the valve core use a hex key that fits down into the valve and clear any old sealant away. I've often had it almost completely plugged and the new sealant wont flow into the tire.
My workflow when using the small bottles like that is that I rotate the wheel so the valve core is somewhat upside down. I then press the bottle firmly against the valve stem then rotate the wheel to the bottom so the sealant will now pour into the tire. Once the bottle is empty I will of course reinstall the valve core. When I inflate, I turn the wheel enough so that when I use my floor pump it doesn't splatter the sealant up into the valve core. Not sure if that last part is useful but it seems it prevents the sealant from splashing up onto the core and becoming trapped once I close the presta valve. Of course this only works if you can get the wheel off the ground, or if the bike has been flipped upside down. If the bike is firmly on the floor I would suggest rotating the wheel just a few degrees so the sealant isn't splashing onto the bottom of the now flat tire sitting on the floor.
This was a big help. I’ve been riding my road bike for years, but because of moving to a mountain community, I now have a road bike with tubeless tires. I’m motivated to learn how to care for the bike myself as much as possible. Your video was a big first step for me. Thank you!
Ok. I did my first sealant re-fill on a tubeless tyre today (tyre has a small puncture that wasn't sealing). I'm not the mechanical type. Despite it looking easy in videos I thought I was looking in the face of disaster with seemingly most of the new sealant on the floor and not being able to re-inflate the tyre. The problem, which I discovered after re-inserting the valve-head a number of times, was that little threaded washer at the base of the valve stem. It wasn't tight enough and air was escaping via the base of the valve stem. Just checked the tyre and after a few hours it's holding up so...hopefully the puncture is fixed. I now feel more confident about topping up my bike sealant and am rather proud of myself!
I’ve been using this technique for over 12 years now. I started this technique out of necessity back when I got a flat on a tubular road tire after just one ride. No way was I willing to throw it away and spend another $70 on a replacement. I pulled out the core, added two ounces of sealant, put the core back in, and went for a ride. That lasted the entire life of the tubular. Great tips!
Cut the tip of the bottle at an angle and it will fit further down the valve stem and you'll spill less sealant. Great video @Clint Gibbs straight forward! Well done
Good tip. If you're trying this for the first time, though, be aware that not all valves have removable cores. The valves that came with my Ultegra wheels were not removable.
Good info Clint. For sealant bottles w/o the cone end I keep a turkey injector syringe and a short piece of vacuum hose that fits the injector and valve stem.
After the Stans Injector Kit blew up all over the place, it was promptly thrown away. (The tube that is inserted into the injector is just pressed fit not threaded. Yikes!) I tried your method. WOW success at last! A simple and effective idea. Thank You
Thanks for the video. Just thinking for newbies like me, might be a good idea to mention that you probably ought to spin the tire for a while or go for a ride to distribute the sealant
Sealants such as Stan’s race and Silca warn not to put sealant in the valve as it will clog it. Read the directions on the sealant before using this method. You can also use a small zip tie as a dip stick to check the sealant level. Here in inland Southern California, sealant dries out quickly in the summer as temperatures are frequently over 100 degrees.
I hope you could also sum it up in the description and provide a link to the Stan valve core remover (maybe as an affiliated link for yourself as well).
Hi Clint ;) Love your vids, I find them informative and note worthy, please, (unless already made), can you show how you go about wrapping the chain stay with shielding as you often do, what if unshielded rear derailleur cable is fitted by default, what do you do? Also, there are many videos about going one or two by drive trains...what if one wishes to go three-by drive train? Can you give some pointers regarding this. Many Thanks and Kind Regards :)
Here’s a video I made about it a few years ago czcams.com/video/A7NuMIzMtX4/video.html You would not want to wrap any chain stay protector over an in shielded cable. you want to make sure you do the chain stay protector first and then put the do regular cable wire over top if it will fit.
Works great with Stans, but I tried this with some Slime Pro I got for free and the particulate rubber would clog the hole quite a bit, leading me to take off the cap to clear the clog with a used brake cable three or four times before I finished.
Very simple but informative video. I broke the valve stem while putting air, and used this tool to replace the stem core. The mistake I made is, opened the valve before taking the air out, and spraying a lot of sealant outside in the process. The sealant in my tire was put in recently. Do you think I should more sealant because of what I lost, or should there still be enough inside? Thanks!
Any tips for adding sealant to a nee tubular tyre mounted with a valve extension, sealant doesn't go in, instead it get stuck in-between and starts to get hard quickly, unable to inflate it after squeezing some in.
i have been tubeless for 12 months now. should i be stripping the tire off, washing out the old goo and redo this operation? how to get the old sealant off the bead? i have heard reports reseating a tire with old goo on the bead can be a real pain in the butt.tire are 2.3" MTB tires.
I just did that recently! Luckily my Bike came with a valve removal tool. But for the insertion I just got myself a syringe from the pharmacy and combined it with some medical tubing from an old oxygen mask which was just small enough in diameter to fit inside the valve. Cleanest refill imaginable and it also only costs a few cents. You could also get a special syringe from Stans but that'll cost you about 10 bucks and will do basically the same. Maybe worth it if you can't scrounge up the right sized medical tubing - not sure how well the medical syringe would work on its own.
Easy explanation and my LBS gave me the 2oz Giant sealant bottles you used so I think I’m set, but one question - I never sloshed my tires around when I first got the tubeless tires installed to find out what a “full tire” with 2oz of sealant sounds like, so how do I know if I’ve still got 2oz of wet sealant in there or not and, if not, should I add something less than 2oz?
@@Velofil if im correct the milkit valve holds pressure without a valve core to ease the filling of sealant with a seal that can be broken with their syringe. So if you want to change out your tire you have to poke something in the valve to release the air?
New to tubeless. Very helpful video! First time installing sealant into my brand new bike. The only issue I’m having is that I’m struggling to air up my tires after sealant installation. It seams as though air is struggling to pass through the valve. Is it possible that sealant got on the tip of the valve during installation and is preventing air to pass? Troubleshooting recommendations? Thank you!
Get a valve core remover and take out the valve core. Make sure there's no sealant blocking the valve. In the video below I show how to take out the valve core at 6:30 czcams.com/video/hpeGQ9kZMPg/video.html
How much Stans would you recommend putting in a 20" recumbent trike tire? The tire is 1.5 inches wide. This would be the initial application. Would one 2 ounce bottle suffice for each tire? Your video was very concise and informative. Thanks.
I have always used the bottle to add sealant with the exception of when I'm installing a new tire. Some mechanics will claim it's better to use a syringe with a with a thin injection end so to avoid clogging the stem with sealant. I've never had that problem.
Thanks for the video - 0:48 are there other sealant bottles that have this convenient "injector" ? I can't seem to locate Stans' 2oz bottle where I am right now and Amazon has been out for weeks !
First application into road tyres, not hearing the sealant "slosh" around when I was shaking the tyre (the no-tubes dance), or when spinning the wheels. I used 60mls (equal to 2oz). Should I add a bit more sealant after letting the first lot apply to the inside of the tyre?
Question - so I had a tire blow on me due to an unknown sharp object. Sealant sprayed all over the place. I used Stan’s dart plugs to plug it up. Sealant finally stopped coming out and the tire appears to be holding pressure quite nicely. Should I add more sealant now? Also - do some portable bike tool kits - the ones you throw in your saddle bag - have a core remover?
Never knew about this with bikes (only with cars) and I've been cycling for 15+ years. Can I ditch my inner tube repair kit and just keep the sealant and a pump? Many thanks
Unless your rims are tubeless ready with the rim strip already installed, you need to get a tubeless rim strip. Stans sells conversion kits with a rubber tubeless rim strip.
Sealants great for running ultra low pressures when you want a supple and compliant ride without the risk of pinch flats. It also creates a tad bit of weight savings ( about 5 oz/140 gms per for a typical gravel tire). However, you really need to carry a tube with you, even if you go tubeless. A plugging kit is also smart (often called bacon strips). The tube comes in handy when you're 20 miles from nowhere and your hole is more like a gash and the sealant is just bubbling up and the plug doesn't hold either. Then its best to put something in between your savior tube and tire...like an energy bar wrapper or a dollar bill until you get back to civilization.
Clint how often do you recommend adding tire sealant I ride the bike about every other week and average humidity here along the Southern California Coast
can this be done on the initial setup? meaning, i am finally ready to pull out the tubes on my "tubeless ready" rims and tires.... or do i have to do it differently the first time around ?? thanks.
One tip I have if you use a lezyne mini pump with the flexible adaptor then you need to do the core up very tight or it will be unscrewed when you take the adaptor off. This happened to me and it was a bad time in the woods I can tell you.
Yep, I've seen that many times...spend 5 minutes and valuable calories pumping up a tire, only to have it blast back out. Repeat a few times, then put in a tube...consider golf, then come to your senses.
@@ClintGibbs Happened to me for the first time the other day. I thought I had a valve key in my tubeless repair kit but had left it at home. I took about 4 or 5 attempts and about 15 mins.The tyre had partly come unseated too so I had to pump so fast. I was having a fully bad time.
You can, but that will happen when you ride. This video is mainly focused on adding more sealant, which means you've already had sealant in the tire and the tire has already coated. In a new application it doesn't hurt to spend the tire. In the old days when we converted standard tires we would let the tire rest on its side to seal the sidewalls.
It all depends on the climate. Just shake the tire around and listen. If you can hear it sloshing around then you're okay. If not you need to add some. I've had sealant last a week and I've had it last 5 months. On average I think 4 months would be about right.
@@ClintGibbs So if you keep putting sealant over and over like every 4 months, I'm just curious what happens to the old sealant. Does it evaporate eventually or dries up and sealant will eventually consume the tire? Just trying to rap it around my head. Thanks
That used to be really important back in the day but I found with today’s tubeless ready tires that it’s not as important. If your tire is not holding air it’s definitely a good idea to lay the tire on its side to let the sealant move around the sidewalks. Also good to shake the tire back-and-forth. But again, I haven’t had to do that recently.
I removed my valve core and tried using FlatOut with no success. The bottle has a built in tube dispenser that fits over the valve completely, but the liquid just stops at the valve. Air lock? I tried putting in some air and it was clear, but the sealant just will not flow. Any ideas? TIA
It sounds like the sealant is clumping before you put it in. The only suggestion I can make is shake the bottle real well before you try it and make sure the valve does not have any clumps of sealant in it.
great vid but my stupid shimano rims came with valve cores that are fixed and not removable. I guess i need to get removable ones if they even make them for this wheel set. thanks
run tubeless on my road bike and use a sealant called "finish line", I'm happy with it but with my bike suspended in the bike stand the imbalance of the wheel is VERY noticeable while spinning. I did put the correct amount into the wheel, should I be concerned about this? Thanks
I doubt it's the sealant causing the imbalance. My guess is it's either your valve stem or the wheel is not true. Usually the sealant will stay in place by gravity as the wheel spins. When the wheel goes faster this centrifugal force will spread it out. At least that's been my experience.
@@kennethwise7108 Clint's correct when sealant's used correctly. However, you may have dried "globs" of sealant in a specific area inside the tire. This happens sometimes when the factory or whoever mounted these tires used too much sealant, didn't spin the tire, and/or it has sat for a period of time puddling...thus drying at the bottom. Imbalance is more noticeable on ultra lightweight set ups. We see it at my bike shop where I work. Excessive dried sealant globs up and, in general ,is a PITA to remove from a salvageable tire...especially the beads, which need to be fairly clean in order to seat again. So basically, if your hub is spinning smooth and the rim is true, and there is no other binding cause for the imbalance. I would remove the tire and inspect for dried puddles and globs. An old inner tube, cut into rubbing patches is great for cleaning beads, just grease your elbows first...or splurge on a new tire. 😁
You don’t need to do that. Tubeless ready tires will hold air without sealant. The sealant is just there to seal any punctures you may get while riding.
Thanks for the video. Worth mentioning is that it's worth to keep the little bottle. It's more eco-friendly and cheaper to buy a large bottle of sealant and use the little one to refill.
That's exactly wot I've done, I bought a big note of stand tire sealant and use the small bottle 2 refill.
Only thing I dont get is dont u need 2 spin ur wheel rnd 2 get the sealant 2 go all the way rnd? Like how does it work inside the inner tube?
@@RaikenXion Yes, it's always suggested to spin the wheel and place it sideways (both sides) and spin the wheel in that configuration also, to spread the sealant. Of course, if you're going to be riding very soon it will have the same affect.
I was just thinking this.
lazurm great advice for a new setup, but for a refill, not really necessary
Great suggestions below, but missed by all is after removal of the valve core use a hex key that fits down into the valve and clear any old sealant away. I've often had it almost completely plugged and the new sealant wont flow into the tire.
My workflow when using the small bottles like that is that I rotate the wheel so the valve core is somewhat upside down. I then press the bottle firmly against the valve stem then rotate the wheel to the bottom so the sealant will now pour into the tire. Once the bottle is empty I will of course reinstall the valve core. When I inflate, I turn the wheel enough so that when I use my floor pump it doesn't splatter the sealant up into the valve core. Not sure if that last part is useful but it seems it prevents the sealant from splashing up onto the core and becoming trapped once I close the presta valve. Of course this only works if you can get the wheel off the ground, or if the bike has been flipped upside down. If the bike is firmly on the floor I would suggest rotating the wheel just a few degrees so the sealant isn't splashing onto the bottom of the now flat tire sitting on the floor.
Love finding a 3yr old video telling me exactly what I needed to confirm quickly! Thank you!
This was a big help. I’ve been riding my road bike for years, but because of moving to a mountain community, I now have a road bike with tubeless tires. I’m motivated to learn how to care for the bike myself as much as possible. Your video was a big first step for me. Thank you!
super helpful, just went tubeless about a month ago, and was overthinking this a little (lot) thanks for shutting that down 🤘🏼
Ok. I did my first sealant re-fill on a tubeless tyre today (tyre has a small puncture that wasn't sealing). I'm not the mechanical type. Despite it looking easy in videos I thought I was looking in the face of disaster with seemingly most of the new sealant on the floor and not being able to re-inflate the tyre. The problem, which I discovered after re-inserting the valve-head a number of times, was that little threaded washer at the base of the valve stem. It wasn't tight enough and air was escaping via the base of the valve stem. Just checked the tyre and after a few hours it's holding up so...hopefully the puncture is fixed. I now feel more confident about topping up my bike sealant and am rather proud of myself!
If I may suggest spinning the wheel an repositioning the wheel to distribute the sealant...
Great comment!
I was wondering how the hell inserting it at one point does the whole tyre. ( completely new to tubeless)
True but its a top up, not sealing. So his tires are already properly sealed.
@@Jacktoriousrexrex inflation, and the air pressure it provides, probably evenly-ish distributes it, but I can’t believe he didn’t spin it.
I’ve been using this technique for over 12 years now. I started this technique out of necessity back when I got a flat on a tubular road tire after just one ride. No way was I willing to throw it away and spend another $70 on a replacement. I pulled out the core, added two ounces of sealant, put the core back in, and went for a ride. That lasted the entire life of the tubular. Great tips!
Great video. Thank you for the basic video. As you recognized at the start of the video, some of us are new to doing our own bike maintenance.
Brand new to this. Thanks so much for helping me easily fix my tubeless tire!! Ready to ride again!
after years of trial and error I've been using your method for quite a while now. By far the easiest way to add sealant without breaking tire bead.
Great video, I'm brand new to this, thank you for your short, sweet, and to the point explanation on how to do this!
Love the quick tip maintenance vids!
Thank you for the video and making it very easy to follow. Much appreciated 🚲
Cut the tip of the bottle at an angle and it will fit further down the valve stem and you'll spill less sealant. Great video @Clint Gibbs straight forward! Well done
Thank you so much, helped a ton after looking everywhere for a video to show me just this, simple and fast.
Thank you for this video, Clint. It was very helpful.
Excellent, thank you! I‘m just trying this as I am setting up tubeless for the first time.
Thanks for the video, really helpful, I just followed the video to add sealant to the tubeless tyres on my new bike and it went perfectly 👍
Many thanks. Simple and straight forward demonstration.
Thanx for sharing this quick and easy way really helpful.
Thanks for this video! I didn't know how to do this for my new bike and it saved me a lot of trouble!
Thanks for the video, simpler than I thought.
Good tip. If you're trying this for the first time, though, be aware that not all valves have removable cores. The valves that came with my Ultegra wheels were not removable.
perfect..followed your instructions and just did both of my bikes! thx a bunch..
Good info Clint. For sealant bottles w/o the cone end I keep a turkey injector syringe and a short piece of vacuum hose that fits the injector and valve stem.
Thanks for a super straightforward demo.
Thanks bro! What the easiest way n clear tip to fix by bikes...self.❤
Super helpful, many thanks for this!
Simple and efficient!
Great video. Thanks for making these simple videos - so helpful! 😊
Very helpful. Thanks.
Great vid mate, really helpful
Really helpful explanation
Thank you this video should have way more likes
Perfect tutorial.
After the Stans Injector Kit blew up all over the place, it was promptly thrown away. (The tube that is inserted into the injector is just pressed fit not threaded. Yikes!) I tried your method. WOW success at last! A simple and effective idea. Thank You
Thanks for the video. Just thinking for newbies like me, might be a good idea to mention that you probably ought to spin the tire for a while or go for a ride to distribute the sealant
great Video thanks for the information
thanks man - easy to follow - ill see how i go
As easy as that! Thanks bud - job done.
This was excellent.... thanks!!!
Super great info!
Exactly what i want to know thank you. I have a sealant with a bottle like that. So i was thingking if i can just pour it into my valves 🤣🤣 thank you.
Thank you, I was wondering how its done! I have to seal my tubeless mountain bike tires !
Great vid! Thanks!
Helpful, thank you.
Very helpful
Don't forget to shake up that sealant! (Just installed my *first* set of tubeless w/ sealant, so no expert here, but just watched all the videos ;-)
Sealants such as Stan’s race and Silca warn not to put sealant in the valve as it will clog it. Read the directions on the sealant before using this method. You can also use a small zip tie as a dip stick to check the sealant level. Here in inland Southern California, sealant dries out quickly in the summer as temperatures are frequently over 100 degrees.
Many thanks
I hope you could also sum it up in the description and provide a link to the Stan valve core remover (maybe as an affiliated link for yourself as well).
Hi Clint ;) Love your vids, I find them informative and note worthy, please, (unless already made), can you show how you go about wrapping the chain stay with shielding as you often do, what if unshielded rear derailleur cable is fitted by default, what do you do? Also, there are many videos about going one or two by drive trains...what if one wishes to go three-by drive train? Can you give some pointers regarding this.
Many Thanks and Kind Regards :)
Here’s a video I made about it a few years ago
czcams.com/video/A7NuMIzMtX4/video.html
You would not want to wrap any chain stay protector over an in shielded cable. you want to make sure you do the chain stay protector first and then put the do regular cable wire over top if it will fit.
Works great with Stans, but I tried this with some Slime Pro I got for free and the particulate rubber would clog the hole quite a bit, leading me to take off the cap to clear the clog with a used brake cable three or four times before I finished.
Hi thanks for advice can I use any tyer like maxxis Hookworm as a tubless or it need to be tubless tyer?
Very simple but informative video. I broke the valve stem while putting air, and used this tool to replace the stem core. The mistake I made is, opened the valve before taking the air out, and spraying a lot of sealant outside in the process. The sealant in my tire was put in recently. Do you think I should more sealant because of what I lost, or should there still be enough inside? Thanks!
making mistakes is how we learn... I've had my fair share. I would add some more sealant.
Thank you
Any tips for adding sealant to a nee tubular tyre mounted with a valve extension, sealant doesn't go in, instead it get stuck in-between and starts to get hard quickly, unable to inflate it after squeezing some in.
Subscribed
How often are you adding sealant on your gravel bike?
i have been tubeless for 12 months now. should i be stripping the tire off, washing out the old goo and redo this operation? how to get the old sealant off the bead? i have heard reports reseating a tire with old goo on the bead can be a real pain in the butt.tire are 2.3" MTB tires.
Thanks.
I just did that recently! Luckily my Bike came with a valve removal tool. But for the insertion I just got myself a syringe from the pharmacy and combined it with some medical tubing from an old oxygen mask which was just small enough in diameter to fit inside the valve. Cleanest refill imaginable and it also only costs a few cents. You could also get a special syringe from Stans but that'll cost you about 10 bucks and will do basically the same. Maybe worth it if you can't scrounge up the right sized medical tubing - not sure how well the medical syringe would work on its own.
It's all a dream
Easy explanation and my LBS gave me the 2oz Giant sealant bottles you used so I think I’m set, but one question - I never sloshed my tires around when I first got the tubeless tires installed to find out what a “full tire” with 2oz of sealant sounds like, so how do I know if I’ve still got 2oz of wet sealant in there or not and, if not, should I add something less than 2oz?
You're just going to have to crack open the bead and take a look.
Have you ever tried the milKit system? I use this since years and I'm really happy with it.
ive been wondering how you deflate the tires with this system
@@ultiss works like a normal presta valve, the milk stays inside! (The position during the deflating should not be at the lowest point)
@@Velofil if im correct the milkit valve holds pressure without a valve core to ease the filling of sealant with a seal that can be broken with their syringe. So if you want to change out your tire you have to poke something in the valve to release the air?
@@ultiss No, you can release the air just by pushing the valve. The sealant stays inside as long as the valve isn't near the sealant level.
New to tubeless. Very helpful video! First time installing sealant into my brand new bike. The only issue I’m having is that I’m struggling to air up my tires after sealant installation. It seams as though air is struggling to pass through the valve. Is it possible that sealant got on the tip of the valve during installation and is preventing air to pass? Troubleshooting recommendations? Thank you!
Get a valve core remover and take out the valve core. Make sure there's no sealant blocking the valve.
In the video below I show how to take out the valve core at 6:30
czcams.com/video/hpeGQ9kZMPg/video.html
How much Stans would you recommend putting in a 20" recumbent trike tire? The tire is 1.5 inches wide. This would be the initial application. Would one 2 ounce bottle suffice for each tire? Your video was very concise and informative. Thanks.
Yes, one bottle should be fine
I have always used the bottle to add sealant with the exception of when I'm installing a new tire. Some mechanics will claim it's better to use a syringe with a with a thin injection end so to avoid clogging the stem with sealant. I've never had that problem.
thanks
I use ( drive safe ) from UK. It's a green goo on my car and in my inner tube.
Hi does the tyre have to be flat when putting the sealant in thanks
Thanks for the video - 0:48 are there other sealant bottles that have this convenient "injector" ? I can't seem to locate Stans' 2oz bottle where I am right now and Amazon has been out for weeks !
Possible That's, though I have not tried it
www.amazon.com/dp/B07YF3BY57/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_7Y4SFb63VKH9Y
First application into road tyres, not hearing the sealant "slosh" around when I was shaking the tyre (the no-tubes dance), or when spinning the wheels. I used 60mls (equal to 2oz). Should I add a bit more sealant after letting the first lot apply to the inside of the tyre?
No, that usually is not necessary
Question - so I had a tire blow on me due to an unknown sharp object. Sealant sprayed all over the place. I used Stan’s dart plugs to plug it up. Sealant finally stopped coming out and the tire appears to be holding pressure quite nicely. Should I add more sealant now? Also - do some portable bike tool kits - the ones you throw in your saddle bag - have a core remover?
Yes, add more sealant. I do keep a valve core remover in my tool bag.
czcams.com/video/cND8zMJPpZo/video.html
Digging the mohawk
Unattended faux hawk 😉
Never knew about this with bikes (only with cars) and I've been cycling for 15+ years. Can I ditch my inner tube repair kit and just keep the sealant and a pump? Many thanks
Unless your rims are tubeless ready with the rim strip already installed, you need to get a tubeless rim strip. Stans sells conversion kits with a rubber tubeless rim strip.
Sealants great for running ultra low pressures when you want a supple and compliant ride without the risk of pinch flats. It also creates a tad bit of weight savings ( about 5 oz/140 gms per for a typical gravel tire). However, you really need to carry a tube with you, even if you go tubeless. A plugging kit is also smart (often called bacon strips). The tube comes in handy when you're 20 miles from nowhere and your hole is more like a gash and the sealant is just bubbling up and the plug doesn't hold either. Then its best to put something in between your savior tube and tire...like an energy bar wrapper or a dollar bill until you get back to civilization.
Clint how often do you recommend adding tire sealant I ride the bike about every other week and average humidity here along the Southern California Coast
This should help
czcams.com/video/hpeGQ9kZMPg/video.html
can this be done on the initial setup? meaning, i am finally ready to pull out the tubes on my "tubeless ready" rims and tires.... or do i have to do it differently the first time around ?? thanks.
If you have rim tape already installed then yes. If not, you have to pull the tires off and put on tubeless rim tape
Cool thx. Is there a certain amount of sealant to put in? Can you put too much?
On mountain bike tires I typically do 2 ounces. Some people do more, especially on downhill bikes. You cannot put too much but it will add weight.
One tip I have if you use a lezyne mini pump with the flexible adaptor then you need to do the core up very tight or it will be unscrewed when you take the adaptor off. This happened to me and it was a bad time in the woods I can tell you.
Yep, I've seen that many times...spend 5 minutes and valuable calories pumping up a tire, only to have it blast back out. Repeat a few times, then put in a tube...consider golf, then come to your senses.
@@ClintGibbs Happened to me for the first time the other day. I thought I had a valve key in my tubeless repair kit but had left it at home. I took about 4 or 5 attempts and about 15 mins.The tyre had partly come unseated too so I had to pump so fast. I was having a fully bad time.
@@grandad1982 Ive replaced some of my Lezyne pumps. Still have 2.
Very quick, simple video u get a like and a sub from me very helpful thanx.
Would do you use a full 2 ounce bottle for a top up? I have a brand new Trek Domane and have put 1500 km on it. Any risk in using too much?
That should be fine. No risk other than just adding excess weight.
I do not have a bike stand. Is that needed to do this to tubeless tires? I'm newbie to tubeless. Trying to learn. Thanks!!
No, you can just flip your bike upside down on the ground and do it. That is, have it rest on the handlebars in the seat.
Does this method work on the Race Sealant from Stan's? Because the instructions on the bottle says not to inject Race Sealant through the valve.
Race sealant is a bit thicker so I would go with theit recommendation. Just pop open the bead and pour it in.
This might be a dumb question, but once you have added the sealant and aired up the tire, should you spin the tire to spread it out?
You can, but that will happen when you ride. This video is mainly focused on adding more sealant, which means you've already had sealant in the tire and the tire has already coated. In a new application it doesn't hurt to spend the tire. In the old days when we converted standard tires we would let the tire rest on its side to seal the sidewalls.
How often do you recommend adding new fluid, my bike has done 2.5k?
It all depends on the climate. Just shake the tire around and listen. If you can hear it sloshing around then you're okay. If not you need to add some. I've had sealant last a week and I've had it last 5 months. On average I think 4 months would be about right.
@@ClintGibbs So if you keep putting sealant over and over like every 4 months, I'm just curious what happens to the old sealant. Does it evaporate eventually or dries up and sealant will eventually consume the tire? Just trying to rap it around my head. Thanks
That's never used it before hade no idea how to use.. 👍
Great video. I’m guessing you either ride or spin the tire after adding sealant. 👍
That used to be really important back in the day but I found with today’s tubeless ready tires that it’s not as important. If your tire is not holding air it’s definitely a good idea to lay the tire on its side to let the sealant move around the sidewalks. Also good to shake the tire back-and-forth. But again, I haven’t had to do that recently.
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How do you know it’s time to put new sealant or more sealant in and how much sealant is enough?
Every 3-4 months, half of a small bottle per tire
I removed my valve core and tried using FlatOut with no success. The bottle has a built in tube dispenser that fits over the valve completely, but the liquid just stops at the valve. Air lock? I tried putting in some air and it was clear, but the sealant just will not flow. Any ideas? TIA
It sounds like the sealant is clumping before you put it in. The only suggestion I can make is shake the bottle real well before you try it and make sure the valve does not have any clumps of sealant in it.
How long does this last? And what do I do when I need to add more?
It depends on the conditions and the condition of your tires. I've seen it last a couple weeks and then I've seen it last 5 months.
I have a new bike and tires. When will I need to add sealant and how do I know it's needed?
Use it right away, the tire or tube will repair itself
Can you carry that small bottle of sealant in your bike kit without the cap popping off. Does it screw on?
The bottles have foil that has to be removed before the sealant can come out. Kind of like a safety seal.
@@ClintGibbs thanks
I have an old tire that needs to be resealed, but I don't have a compressor, what do you recomend?
Try standard floor pump first. If that doesn't work you can use a CO2 cartridge.
great vid but my stupid shimano rims came with valve cores that are fixed and not removable. I guess i need to get removable ones if they even make them for this wheel set. thanks
I would think the basic stans ones would work.
Ty for the great video. How much sealant (ml) do you use for a CX and a 29er MTB Tire?
1.5 scoops in a CX tire, 2 scoops in a mtb tire. Or if I'm using one of the 2 ounce bottles I just put the whole bottle in for both.
run tubeless on my road bike and use a sealant called "finish line", I'm happy with it but with my bike suspended in the bike stand the imbalance of the wheel is VERY noticeable while spinning. I did put the correct amount into the wheel, should I be concerned about this? Thanks
I doubt it's the sealant causing the imbalance. My guess is it's either your valve stem or the wheel is not true. Usually the sealant will stay in place by gravity as the wheel spins. When the wheel goes faster this centrifugal force will spread it out. At least that's been my experience.
@@ClintGibbs that's a good point. I'm still trying to figure out of it's a problem worth trying to eliminate or just say of well, it is what it is...
@@kennethwise7108 Clint's correct when sealant's used correctly. However, you may have dried "globs" of sealant in a specific area inside the tire. This happens sometimes when the factory or whoever mounted these tires used too much sealant, didn't spin the tire, and/or it has sat for a period of time puddling...thus drying at the bottom. Imbalance is more noticeable on ultra lightweight set ups. We see it at my bike shop where I work. Excessive dried sealant globs up and, in general ,is a PITA to remove from a salvageable tire...especially the beads, which need to be fairly clean in order to seat again. So basically, if your hub is spinning smooth and the rim is true, and there is no other binding cause for the imbalance. I would remove the tire and inspect for dried puddles and globs. An old inner tube, cut into rubbing patches is great for cleaning beads, just grease your elbows first...or splurge on a new tire. 😁
for the floor pump, how many psi do you recommend?
I run around 22 front and 24 rear
Should the tire not be rotated to allow the sealant go all around the tire before you inflate it?
You don’t need to do that. Tubeless ready tires will hold air without sealant. The sealant is just there to seal any punctures you may get while riding.