CadetPedals Demonstration and Build
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
- Thingiverse Files:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:465...
Arduino Project (Build Information, BOM, and reference pictures in ReadMe):
create.arduino.cc/editor/vinc...
Instagram:
@Vince_Prints
Email:
3DVcreate@gmail.com
0:00 Demo
0:37 Introduction
1:12 Explanation
4:25 Build Guide
6:47 Outro - Věda a technologie
You’re here for the rudder pedals. I’m here for the foot cam. We are not the same.
Oh my god 🤣, when should I drop the OF link?
Fantastic design Vince - Very impressive!
This is the best and most detailed build guide I have seen. Fantastic job and keep producing more.
Excellent and off-the-chart! Thank you for freely sharing such a wealth of information and your talents... It's inspirational to anyone w/ an interest in engineering and such an asset to the flight sim community. Already built the CadetYoke & CadetThrottle... up next the CadetRadio!
Wow, these are amazing, all of the projects so far and have given me ideas for some stuff for dcs.
You are a genius! Thanks for this beautiful design!
Nice work Vince!!
Really amazing! I'm in the process of building your CadetThrottle while modifying the front plate to suit my needs. I cannot thank you enough for designing these, as I am having so much fun.
I'm using his yoke with the mod to allow width adjustment and I modded the clamp to fit a 12mm shaft. I've learned so much from @Vince_Prints and he's helped get unstuck a time or two. Love the compact design of these pedals.
Ok thanks.
First of all, awesome design... really appreciate your effort and generosity sharing your work, you've done all the heavy lifting. I've just finished building one, but I've had to 'remix' it a little bit to components and parts I have available - I'm using AS5600 hall effect sensors instead of pots, resized the PVC tubing (we have metric 25mm OD), and resized the screw holes as I don't have those brass inserts. Having the STEP files made it easy, so again, much appreciated for sharing!
printing my pedals now and intend to use hall effect sensors too... whats your thoughts long term on these and the AS5600 units
Simply amazing
Great design. it moves like a real GA plane
Cant wait to see next video!
I am on a bit of a hiatus, but the design is finished just need to finish recording the video!
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing :)
Many thanks! I'll build them when I finish my exams
I haven't finished it yet but regret starting this. Pedals are wobbly, they don't feel solid at all. Base parts won't fit each other propperly, and wiring... omg, I've been wiring potetiometers with the Arduino with shitty duponts and a horrible pcb I've made for such a long time. What's the result? Wires popping out, bad conections and bouncy axes. I'm very grateful that Vince spent time designing this, but I'm not sure if it worths it. Maybe it's better to save a little money and buy the Logitech
Just in the process of assembling mine while the pedals print! Amazing design, thanks for doing it. Only issue I've had was the grips are too large by a hair to fit inside the base are need some filing probably due to the elephants foot on the first layer, if you end up making some revisions, maybe consider taking a hair more off the grips to make life easier
Big fan of your projects.. You got a new subscriber here :)
Thanks so much!
Man, you're just awesome! Thank you!
You're welcome!
U R A GENIUS! TKS A LOT!
Fantastic wrk!
Genius design
Thank you! Cheers!
Sensacional.
Great project, I'll be printing it soon - with a small change.
You could make it precise, easier to build and more robust:
BU0836A 12-Bit Joystick Controller instead of arduino (12bit analog inputs instead of 10bit)
Magnetic (Hall effect) sensor Allegro A1302 and a magnet instead of potentiometers. (No gears, no dead zone, no wear)
ansome job thanks for share it ! i will try to do it if i found some time for !
Have fun!
i will make it thank u
I would love to build it but i don´t have a 3d printer :( but AWSOME work keep it up!
Great design except for the key-ways. I just slowly drilled a few holes in the bottom of the pedals and unused sections of the the toe brake gears (as we don't need the full range of the big gear anyway) and added small screws to hold in the PVC pipe. This also helps lock the gears so they can't fall off if key-ways are cut too big (not confessing to anything.).
Haha happy you found a solution
My first pedal is printing
Nice build you have can you help me with how can i get the springs and whats the specs of them
question, how do i like this video more than once? :P Awesome design. i have been looking to buy a virpil rudder, but it is so hard to invest in something like a rudder that just do not have the importance as the prices for them are portraying. Your desing is just so good! :D And ofcourse such a helpful and nice of you to share your creations :D Keep it up :)
Kind comments, such as yours, are why I keep building! Thank you so much! New video is in the works--stay tuned!
I've made all of the pedal, but I'm struggling with the springs. Do you have de exact especifications of the sprint at the tension arm and pedals?
Sweet! Next time for the fusion 360 animation make the parts different colors so it's easier to see what goes where.
Noted! Other than this, is it fairly simple to follow?
@@VincePrints haven't assembled it myself but looks fairly straight forward, maybe also include a brief list of parts you need to purchase in the video too :)
@@marty4032 will do, did you find the BOM on the Arduino page?
Congratulations on making it into the /diyhotas reddit hall of fame.
Thank you!
@@VincePrints No problem, they are amazing. Started making them and the tolerances are so good that everything is capable of being friction fit.
This is great. Gotta rework the models with metric though before i try and make it.
Everything should be metric except for the tube sizing, just because of availability in the US! I believe there are already remixes for metric tube sizing available on thingiverse, but please modify as needed with the included .step files!
Great build. Question, how did you calculate the gear ratio of the pivot? or was it done by eye? will be trying this one out.
Great question, I did this mostly by eye but it can be done mathematically. I was mostly trying to get a specific angle value for the pivot (I believe +/- 45 degrees if I remember correctly) and then scaled my gearing ratio with respect to this. Given that this would create 90 degrees of total rotation and the potentiometer has 270 degrees of total rotation, you can calculate the gearing ratio to be 1:3. The real key is the map() function within the Arduino sketch that converts the HIGH and LOW limits of the potentiometer (how mar it is able to spin) and scales them to fit the values expected by the computer. Hopefully, this helps!
Excellent design and implementation, what sized build plate do you have on your 3D printer?
My Prusa MK3 is 250 x 210 x 210mm and my Prusa mini is 180 x 180 x 180mm
Nice! I want to build this but did you have an Video how to soldering the cables in the arduino and how to program this. Thx
There are channels that have some really good soldering and Arduino tutorials, I would suggest searching for those!
Very nice project - the design seems to be leaned on the MFG Crosswind rudder pedals?
Engineering principles yes, but different design overall
Hi.
Could you provide a complete part list for it?
Could find any in the description
The complete BOM is available on the Arduino build page
Question if you connect 2 arduino for example 2 Leonardos will the game be able to read both at the same time? or do you somehow need to connect them?
You can have multiple connected at once to your computer as separate controllers. That is how all of my controllers can work simultaneously!
This is fantastic! One question: is there anything in the way of me 3D-printing an alternative to the PCB pipes? They're hard to come by where I live
Potentially haha you'll want to use something that can withstand the weight of your leg, which is quite a lot of force for a 3d printed part on a sheered slot line this. A wooden dowel or metal pipe would also work
@@VincePrints Aaah okay. So that's like the main load-bearing part? Makes sense that I don't 3D print then, thanks :)
@@SimmziNOR There is another design by Michael Rechtin at 9:26 in the following video czcams.com/video/nO-lanEc5vM/video.html Maybe you could mix and match. I like Vince's model but I'm considering remixing a little to make it wider and use an xbox controller in the center for the inputs (for Elite Dangerous which allows multiple controllers for game input). The top bar with the gear, use it to mover the analog stick, and for the pedal brakes, use the analog trigger buttons (like in this video czcams.com/video/Qy1amRL5POE/video.html.
Hey whats the smallest 3d printer bed this can be printed onto?
I'm using an Creality Ender 3 to print this. 220 x 220 mm
Incredible job, I will try it. What are the dimensions of the springs that you used?
They should be listed on the thingiverse page
Nice. Imma build one myself. What is the potentiometer shaft length?
I'm not sure of the exact length off hand but they should be modeled correctly in the CAD file!
Would you recommend printing the pedals with or without supports inside the hex shapes?
I printed with supports
Still a noob when it comes to this. When we upload the sketch to the board, should it come up as a new joystick on the joystick panel or is it just when you go into a game, does it serve as an axis?
You need to calibrate the joystick within windows, you should be able to find quite a few videos on this within CZcams!
Why not use hall effect sensors? (Thank you for the design, I think I'll try to make it)
Just used what I had 🤷♂️
Im loving seeing all of your diy builds and since im also a DIY'er im really interested in your projects.
However may I sugest some force feedback on the pedals? Maybe with a bit of arduino code and 3 stepper motors we can give some feedback from the airplane to the controls.
Can anyone give some hints about the real NM force that is felt in real aircraft?
That may be critical to find a right spec motor to attach it.
Force feedback would require a lot of research and gearing mechanisms that extend beyond my development scope for the project. While possible, it would become much more than a cheap Arduino project--perhaps someone would be willing to modify my designs to make this possible.
@@VincePrints Well since Im printing your pedals is just a case of after print figuring out the necessary changes to fit 1 motor to drive the rudder steering and 2 motors for braking. (the brakes im thinking in linear actuators to limit the course movement of the brake pedals)
Maybe there is a way of changing the brake pressure, a spring per pedal and a linear actuator compresses more or less the pedal spring to give some sort of "brake feedback".
Could you give hints about the force that is present at the real aircraft? Rudder NM and brake NM?
I've edited my MS_Sidewinder FF2, to be a cessna yoke with FF. Now im targeting to do some sort of same thing in the pedals. Also maybe a nice ideia to use another MS_Sidewinder FF2 and his motors to do what i want in terms of rudder.
Update: What do you think about this mini linear actuators between the pedals and the pedal coil? That way we can make the brakes feel stiffer or softer as sent by the simulator software.
pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005001421552415.html?src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=9437679086&albag=97536833404&trgt=296904914040&crea=pt1005001421552415&netw=u&device=c&albpg=296904914040&albpd=pt1005001421552415&gclid=Cj0KCQjwutaCBhDfARIsAJHWnHvkymVD-F1Jths9cUVdGl7CqXZrNV_wzfwDAoAauk6JzO7nthJTDWIaAgxCEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
On the directional side of pedals a single stepper motor would do the trick.
What your toughs on that? Also do you allow me to mess and edit a bit with your project in order to fit there 3 motors and position sensors.
Can you share the design but not in STL file format in order to do some editing of some parts to try to integrate the 2 linear actuators that ive told and a rudder motor.
@@frederiko1982 I wish I could help more! I've never piloted a real aircraft before, so I have no idea.
Steppers and linear actuators would be sufficient in providing back pressure, but I think you will find that you need a lot more force than you think to replicate the sensation you are describing. Also, back driving that small linear actuator would draw a lot more current than the pro mini can handle, so you would want to consider or power options--almost certainly 9V or higher.
Another consideration is that you would need to dig into the MSFS2020 SDK to pull information from the game to drive your feedback mechanism.
The .step file is listed in the thingiverse project page, you just have to look for it!
It would be better to put torsion springs on the brake pin axes, it will stay cleaner and there will be no danger of your socks getting stuck.
Thats a great idea!
Are your heels touching the ground when actuating the rudder (not the brakes)?
Yes
Incredible project!!
First of all, thank you very much for the great contribution. I have a question about the calibration. If I'm not mistaken, in windows there are 3 axes to calibrate: Pedal potentiometers (X, Y) Central potentiometer (Z). I can't do a good calibration and it may be because of the position of each potentiometer. Could it be because the potentiometer is set to its center position rather than its home position before each pedal is moved?
Can you help me to calibrate?
There are 3 axis to calibrate: the 2 toe brakes, and the center mechanism. When calibrating within the windows USB manager, make sure you move the pedals fully in either direction so that windows can see the full value of the potentiometer. The fact that it is in the middle of it's range should not be impacting your ability to calibrate.
Hope this helps!
@@VincePrints Thank you very much for your answer. I am seeing that my problem is with S: A2 (right pedal). It seems that it does not receive signal, I have checked several times the connectors and the potentiometer. Could it be due to an Arduino Pro problem? Could you change the connector to A0 for the right pedal ?. Thanks in advance
@@frankfdj You should be able to change to any available analog input as long as you modify the Arduino code
@@VincePrints thanks , is what I will do, I think I have broken pin A2 by inverting GND and 5v ... hehe. I will use A0 and reconfigure in Arduino code. Thank you so much!!
Hello which one did you use Arduino and components
Everything is listed on the Arduino build page--link in description
What guage of wire did you use to wire everything?
I believe it was 20AWG which is still maybe overkill
How stable and how smooth running is it? I wonder why you didn't (and no one else on thingyverse) include 8mm rods and linear bearings into your design. Usually everone who owns a 3d printer has several of these laying around as potential spare parts for maintenance.
Still smooth after a few months of use. This style of pedal had a variable width when it actuates, making it a less than ideal candidate for rails-- though that would strengthen the design. I also did not have linear rails or bearings lying around.
@@VincePrints
Hmm weird. What 3d printer are you using? The linear bearings of my heatbed failed during christmas so it was good to have some laying around or I wouldn't have been able to print for a long time.
@@Bullshitvol2 I have a PRUSA MK3 and a PRUSA MINI both from the first few shipments--still holding strong and I highly recommend it. I do regular maintenance to the hotend but I've never had issues with any of the bearings (yet!).
Thanks you so much for free sharing these things, Amazing work !
You could put a PayPal or a spreadshirt in thé description, because wow that's worth it !
I have a question : how much plastic do you need to create all of this ? (I plan to buy flight simulator and a joystick, and dont have enough money for the rudder , and I find it Amazing to do it myself (not totally 😅))
Great work, nice animations, congrats !
Hey Leo!
The amount of filament used will depend on a few variables like wall thickness and infill of the printed parts. For this project, I didn't document the exact amount but on the CadetYokev2 I made a spreadsheet documenting a lot more of this type of information (still learning the types of info people want haha). If you import the parts into your slicer, you should be able to estimate the amount of filament needed based on your preferences.
Also if you are interested in contributing, you can click the thingiverse link and hit the "Tip Designer" button on the right-hand side of the page. This will redirect you to my PayPal!
Cheers,
Vince
@@VincePrints Thanks you very much for this fast (as f) answer !
I didn't thinked about this option, but that's pretty straight forward.
Concerning the tip, I'll try to convince my parents to do one, because its just amazing what you do !
Cheers,
Leo
If the information is helpful to you, I did the math, and in my case, I'll need between 700 and 800 grams of filament : 320 black, and 400 grey
So I'm looking at the arduino diagram. Did you connect all 3 wires together?
Side note it'd be nice to have a still image of what the wiring looks like on the board
@@complicatedbreakfast7645 All 3 5V wires can be connected together and then connected to VCC on the Arduino. All 3 GND wires can be connected together and then connected to GND on the Arduino. The signal wires should be connected to A1, A2, and A3 respectively.
A still image of the board would not reveal anything additional. I just run a little wire from 5V on the JST connector to the 5V pin on the Arduino so that when I plug it in, 5V runs from the board to the correct JST pin--there are no other components or hidden features.
If you are having trouble picturing this, I would recommend bypassing the JST connectors and just soldering your wires straight to the Arduino board.
Hope this helps!
@@VincePrints got it now thanks. I just spliced a piece for the wires to connect to on each side
is there a link for the rest of the rudder pedal base?
I'm confused? All of the files are on the Thingiverse page.
@@VincePrints it wasnt downloading everythimg for somereason fixed it
Whst is a good way of cutting those keyways in the PVC pipes? Was Gonna try a lasercutter but that was pretty toxic apparently xD
I suppose you could, I used a drill and a file but a Dremel would probably be more efficient.
@@VincePrints i finnally finished it turned out quite good. Gonna try to edit it a littlebit cyz some of the hardware looks diffrent here than what you designed it around ^^
BUT. when i have finished coding it. My arduino and all the data from the pots are suuuuper slow xD am i missong something? :O it like lags/janks when moving then axis.
@@Creedarn Double-check your electrical connections, there should little to no latency!
@@VincePrints i changed the coding part and it worked better guess it is something with the way arduino reads it.
leftPedal = analogRead(A3);
rightPedal = analogRead(A2);
rudderAxis_ = analogRead(A1);
rightPedal=map(rightPedal,0,1023,0,255);
leftPedal = map(leftPedal,0,1023,0,255);
rudderAxis_=map(rudderAxis_,0,1023,0,255);
Joystick.setYAxis(rightPedal);
Joystick.setZAxis(rudderAxis_);
Joystick.setXAxis(leftPedal);
Should i get them in abs?
I printed in PETG but ABS is also a viable option.
which printer do you use?
I use two--a PRUSA MK3 and a PRUSA MINI
Where do you, get all the parts from?
Links to all materials are listed on the Arduino build page ReadMe. I tend to source things from amazon because its fast and easy here in the US
how did you get it to work with fs2020? mine only shows that the device is connected but doesn't allow me to assign any axis to anything
Did you calibrate in Windows?
@@VincePrints yes the calibration part is done
@@OvaisDIYGarage It should appear as "Arduino Leonardo" under the Controls tab where you would select keyboard and mousse controls typically.
What software did u use??
Fusion360 to design, Arduino IDE for programming
Hallo. Just got to flight simulators. Dont have rudder due to expensiveness. May i know how much these gonna cost me based on the used materials? Many thanks. Greetings from Philippines
Hello Emil, depending on what tools and supplies you already have, it should cost ~$50USD. The complete bill of materials (BOM) can be found on the Arduino build page in the ReadMe!
Hi, i can't download the joystick library, because the link is dead, can you share it again please ?
Thanks !
Sorry about that! For some reason, it added a ")" to the end of the link when clicked, it should be working now!
-Vince
@@VincePrints thanks !
any chance you willing to share the Fusion360 file, wanna mod them a bit for heli usage.
The .step file has always been available on the project page
sorry must have missed it, will go relook. thanks. ... then to figure out how to pull a step file into F360 and make it a solid design/components, ;) never stop discovering/learning. @@VincePrints
can I use arduino mega 2560? I had those laying around
The Mega2560 does not support USB communication and as a result, will not work for this project unless you plan to use a program like MobiFlight.
@@VincePrints omg that's why im thinking about.
But is it possible to have it working in mobiflight? I don't have idea how to set it up :(
@@ryandconan You may want to consider just purchasing a Leonardo board. They are VERY cheap on amazon or from a Chinese retailer.
I have it made and everything but I don’t know how to use it on war thunder is their any way you could help me
I have never played that game so I'm not sure, you may want to try posting in r/HotasDIY to see if anyone has experience with that.
I just ordered all the parts to make this for use with war thunder. I'm assuming the yaw would be for the pedals, and the brakes would be under left break and right break.
@@wegz15 This is correct
@@VincePrints hey for some reason now when I use the sketch It says their is no such file or directory in still really new to all this stuff so I don’t know what is going in and before it didn’t give me this error
@@brand0n505 You need to download the joystick library and install it in the Arduino IDE. Here is the github repository:
github.com/MHeironimus/ArduinoJoystickLibrary
awesome , thankyou very much, could you help me though , when i compile the code i get this error.
Arduino: 1.8.12 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino Leonardo"
CadetPedals:4:1: error: 'Joystick_' does not name a type; did you mean 'Joystick'?
Joystick_ Joystick(JOYSTICK_DEFAULT_REPORT_ID,JOYSTICK_TYPE_JOYSTICK,
^~~~~~~~~
Joystick
C:\Users\THE EGG\Desktop\downloads\CadetPedals\CadetPedals\CadetPedals.ino: In function 'void setup()':
CadetPedals:16:11: error: expected unqualified-id before '.' token
Joystick.begin(); //Starts joystick
^
C:\Users\THE EGG\Desktop\downloads\CadetPedals\CadetPedals\CadetPedals.ino: In function 'void loop()':
CadetPedals:23:11: error: expected unqualified-id before '.' token
Joystick.setXAxis(leftPedal);
^
CadetPedals:27:11: error: expected unqualified-id before '.' token
Joystick.setYAxis(rightPedal);
^
CadetPedals:31:11: error: expected unqualified-id before '.' token
Joystick.setZAxis(rudderAxis_);
^
Multiple libraries were found for "Joystick.h"
Used: C:\Users\THE EGG\Documents\Arduino\libraries\Joystick
Not used: C:\Users\THE EGG\Documents\Arduino\libraries\AxisJoystick
exit status 1
'Joystick_' does not name a type; did you mean 'Joystick'?
This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.
Someone had a similar issue. You need to make sure you have the correct version of the joystick library installed. You can find it here: github.com/MHeironimus/ArduinoJoystickLibrary
Hope this helps!
How much did this cost?
Depending on which components you already have, between $30-$50. The entire BOM is on the ReadMe of the Arduino Project page in the description.
Shame thingiverse is fucked right now...