You Sir are so wonderfully English. I am always mesmerised by the simplicity and genuine enthusiasm of your tutorials. I have been in the UK for about 15 years now and only once I have met a true master carpenter of a similar caliber to yours. You represent the true wonderful gene of Englishness. Also, kudos for being a Milwaukee guy like me.
The perfect mix of precision engineering and precision carpentry....... huge fan of hidden fixings and clean lines....... 👌 great content as always but longer videos needed please........😃
I love the use of new technology meeting the traditional materials Robin and you are definitely an ambassador for that thinking. I remember an old 'New Yankee Workshop' where Norn built a bench just using 3/4 Ply, making the legs from angles of the same. I could never find a system that would take a stacked dado cutter though. One funny of that series was the subtitle that kept coming up saying 'guards removed for photographic reasons' when it would be impossible to complete the cut with a guard in place.
What I like to see is the quick western approach to a joinery solution, but in the back of my mind is also how the Japanese traditional joiners (and traditional joinery) have done it. Just adds to the depth of this trade.
As James B. has already said, traditional joinery with carefully cut joints was not exclusively a Japanese thing! That's just how it was done back in the day. Of course, Japan being Japan, they hate to change anything so old methods linger. You'd probably love to see a Japanese house framing. They still use heavy timber framing for the basic frame, complete with traditional joints and a guy balanced on the ridge beam banging them in with a huge mallet. But the frame is pre-cut at the factory (probably computer controller cutting) and delivered onsite shrink-wrapped on palettes. A crane is hired and the whole thing goes up in a day. But then substantial amounts of modern metal fasteners are also used. This system reminds me exactly of something Japanese framers would use. Well generally it's all thru-bolts, but maybe in 20 years this will catch on!
Robin/ I'm getting addicted to your videos even though many of the projects would be way above my abilities or ambitions. They should carry a health warning! Meanwhile thank you for this guilty pleasure.
I've never personally used but have been aware of products like this from a company called knapp in Austria like the recon connector. They have a lot of ingenious hidden connectors from timber framing to furniture
Hi Robin Just watched this video again, its an amazing thing how timber technology has developed over the years how we would have loved to have had this years ago, it is a good thing that this type of development happens it all helps to make life easier but it is also more pleasing to the eye than seeing a lot of bolts and washers all over the place. Thanks for another great vid.
Fantastic video Robin! Always a thorough explanation of the details. June 1 is my 52 bday and this feels like a gift. 651 thumbs up and 0 thumbs down. 56.5K subscribers here. looking good!
Nice video showing something new, keeping the work looking tidier and most importantly preventing me looking like a total muppet for the first 10 mins when i get handed these with no instructions for the first time 👍
Good tip about the connectors, Robin - I wasn't aware of these. I've designed and used other types (also some concealed) but this one is genious in its simplicity. Thanks!
Never seen those ties in Oz they look good. Those type of lam beams are also now hard to get hold of. Not due to the shortages they were before. Not stocked by the engineered timber makers. You can get them but special order. Not sure why they were good and great to work with.
Nice! However, you can do a sliding dovetail made with wood, and it is just as strong just set up time required . Those connectors are "expensive " here in the States. Cheers, mate ✌️ nice work.
Great video, thanks. The screw direction does seem counter-intuitive - pulling the screws rather than pushing them, but I guess there is a good reason.
By putting the screws in at that angle it reduces the shear in the screws compared to them being at 90degrees. They could not be angled up as they would then emerge out of the top of the beam.
That's a good point. Makes me wonder if they did some lab tests of shear strength vs pull-out strength and decided this was the superior solution, even if people's initial instinct is that it's wrong.
Wait, Robin, by contraption, do you mean a....jig? A beautiful, by the manufacturer jig? And the man who loves who jigs DOESN'T have one?! I. Am. Shocked. Very cool connectors though!
Hi, I've been watching your videos and can see the toolkits you use. Would you do a video or an Amazon list on beginner tools you'd recommend for the average home diy'er?
Hi Robin. What drill bit were you using to pilot the nail holes? Couldn't quite see what you had attached to the drill. Thanks and great video, as always. Best, ROddy
Hi Robin, a question for you...If I am doing resin studs into treated timber ledger, and also using treated 6x2 for the frame do you have to use stainless steel nails and stainless steel studs or can you use normal nails and studs.... or have you done a video on it...?? Just was wondering about the treated timbers chemicals and how they affect nails/studs etc....
Doesnt putting that bracket on the top half of the beam mean all the load is taken up in the top 50% of the beam? with the bottom just hanging of it? I would have thought this would reduce the maximum loading capacity of the beam and potentially allow it to split along its length?
You aren't loading the beam up to its maximum shear capacity. The connection will designed for the forces on the beam and not the maximum force the be can take.
@@krellon the timber beam is likely designed for its bending capacity or deflection. You are right in saying that this connection will not be able to take the full shear load of the beam. Timber design is all about the connection as they are usually the "weakest" point. Even on traditional timber frames member sizes are larger than they need to be to get the connections to work.
The glued timber beam with layered timber and glue acts almost like a horisontal truss, which makes it a lot stronger than a standard wooden beam even if it's not fastened at the bottom. The glue is a very strong bond.
Very nice work!! Question though... how do you connect these "2 horizontal glulam beams" with "the vertical post"? Do they simply rest on the vertical post or is that another joint that was not shown in this video? Any details would be very welcome! Thanks!
Hi Mate, the post end of the glulam is supported by these Simpson connectors and they act like a flat dovetail, the other ends of the beams sit on pockets in the timber frame as normal
Hey Robin, I'm about to build a glulam framed veranda on my timber frame house. I've been on the Simpson website, but the choice of fixings is huge. Can you remember the series number of exactly the ones that you used on the super great video. Cheer 😊
Robin, any videos or help on working out compound angles? I'm building a garden corner sofa, the seat base is pitched 5° and the backrest is at 105°. I'm doing two 30° 'corners' so it's a bit more comfortable than a 45° corner. Trying to figure out the compound cut at a 30° corner where the backrest is pitched at 105° is blowing my mind! 🤬😂 Love your work! Cheers
Should have a look at the program Sketchup if you havent already (Free trial). Not too complicated to use, and really helps when making things like that to sort out the angles/dimensions etc.
Might be a daft question but here goes. Would there be any additional fixings? it seems like the weight of the beam is sat on the Simpson plates. In terms of bearing they are max 5mm thick and any movement on post would mean the beam slips? Apologies if I've got this wrong
Heya buddy. Have you had any experience fitting the Simpson BTALU concealed hangers? I'm struggling to work out what method to advise my builder/carpenter to use to form the slot to the supported 120x320mm glulam on site.. needs to be 115mm deep from the end of the beam and ideally not full depth (i.e invisible from underneath). Not sure if a circular/plunge saw would get deep enough. Grab the chisels?
Hi Mate, I have used the connectors that you mention, indeed I have them in my garden house where I have a big glulam frame, I ordered my Glulam pre slotted as the slot for the spine needs to be a pretty good fit, it could be done on site by making a jig and using a router as far as you can then a forstner type drill bit the same size that would follow the slot that the router made and keep everything true, I did have to drill the dowel positions on site and again this was pretty tricky and I made a jig to keep my drill true and aligned
@@ukconstruction Many thanks for the quick reply man, you've made me one happy fanboy today! The method sounds achievable and a lot more sensible/affordable than the chain mortiser approach that Rothoblass suggest on their vid (looks like a cool toy though!!). All the best.
That corner post sounded pretty dense, is that glulam too? I'm doing a similar detail on a garden room and was proposing a steel post but that looks much better.
I believe that is his favourite hammer, been with him a long time - if I remember correctly. It seems to work just fine, so why change it :), if it ain't broke ...
I admired you precisely for the traditional solid wood joints. But now with these metal joints on such a massive wood I no longer accept it. Thank you for everything I learned from you. I'm unsubscribing. All the best.
I'd say that's very fickle to unsub from someone for showing an alternate method. I have no idea what videos Robin has lined up. But I can guarantee you'll learn something useful everytime. Your loss. ✌
You Sir are so wonderfully English. I am always mesmerised by the simplicity and genuine enthusiasm of your tutorials. I have been in the UK for about 15 years now and only once I have met a true master carpenter of a similar caliber to yours. You represent the true wonderful gene of Englishness. Also, kudos for being a Milwaukee guy like me.
Thats really kind to say!! love your YT name!!!
The perfect mix of precision engineering and precision carpentry....... huge fan of hidden fixings and clean lines....... 👌 great content as always but longer videos needed please........😃
Thanks 👍
Nice to see you got the camera in so close that we could actually see what you’re using.
I love the use of new technology meeting the traditional materials Robin and you are definitely an ambassador for that thinking. I remember an old 'New Yankee Workshop' where Norn built a bench just using 3/4 Ply, making the legs from angles of the same. I could never find a system that would take a stacked dado cutter though. One funny of that series was the subtitle that kept coming up saying 'guards removed for photographic reasons' when it would be impossible to complete the cut with a guard in place.
What I like to see is the quick western approach to a joinery solution, but in the back of my mind is also how the Japanese traditional joiners (and traditional joinery) have done it. Just adds to the depth of this trade.
Traditional joinery was also practiced outside of Japan including but not exclusively in England.
As James B. has already said, traditional joinery with carefully cut joints was not exclusively a Japanese thing! That's just how it was done back in the day. Of course, Japan being Japan, they hate to change anything so old methods linger. You'd probably love to see a Japanese house framing. They still use heavy timber framing for the basic frame, complete with traditional joints and a guy balanced on the ridge beam banging them in with a huge mallet. But the frame is pre-cut at the factory (probably computer controller cutting) and delivered onsite shrink-wrapped on palettes. A crane is hired and the whole thing goes up in a day. But then substantial amounts of modern metal fasteners are also used. This system reminds me exactly of something Japanese framers would use. Well generally it's all thru-bolts, but maybe in 20 years this will catch on!
Robin/ I'm getting addicted to your videos even though many of the projects would be way above my abilities or ambitions. They should carry a health warning! Meanwhile thank you for this guilty pleasure.
I've never personally used but have been aware of products like this from a company called knapp in Austria like the recon connector. They have a lot of ingenious hidden connectors from timber framing to furniture
Hi Robin Just watched this video again, its an amazing thing how timber technology has developed over the years how we would have loved to have had this years ago, it is a good thing that this type of development happens it all helps to make life easier but it is also more pleasing to the eye than seeing a lot of bolts and washers all over the place. Thanks for another great vid.
My pleasure Peter thanks for watching mate!!
Fantastic video Robin! Always a thorough explanation of the details. June 1 is my 52 bday and this feels like a gift. 651 thumbs up and 0 thumbs down. 56.5K subscribers here. looking good!
Happy birthday!
Blimey…a jig Robin doesn’t have…amazing…!!
Lol...... 😃
YET!
Nice video showing something new, keeping the work looking tidier and most importantly preventing me looking like a total muppet for the first 10 mins when i get handed these with no instructions for the first time 👍
Thanks for showing these connectors they look to be a super product!
Glad you like them!
Looks excellent, but that is why I’m a subscriber, thank you Robin.
That is a nice joining system. Thanks for showing it in action. Love Spax. Pretty much the only screw brand I use anymore.
Good tip about the connectors, Robin - I wasn't aware of these. I've designed and used other types (also some concealed) but this one is genious in its simplicity. Thanks!
My man Robin rocking the versace to work 😉
Such a neat way of joining
Never seen those ties in Oz they look good. Those type of lam beams are also now hard to get hold of. Not due to the shortages they were before. Not stocked by the engineered timber makers. You can get them but special order. Not sure why they were good and great to work with.
great job looking good Robin
You are the Robin I want to be as a carpenter :)
I really like the engineered timber technology that’s out there. We’ll be needing more options if we have to reach all these sustainability goals
Nice! However, you can do a sliding dovetail made with wood, and it is just as strong just set up time required . Those connectors are "expensive " here in the States. Cheers, mate ✌️ nice work.
Thanks John!!!
Lovely sound when your knocking the nails in.
Thanks for sharing, always interesting work.
Great video, thanks. The screw direction does seem counter-intuitive - pulling the screws rather than pushing them, but I guess there is a good reason.
Hoping you've got a few videos queued up for the entire build beforehand but I guess your big build might have taken over
By putting the screws in at that angle it reduces the shear in the screws compared to them being at 90degrees. They could not be angled up as they would then emerge out of the top of the beam.
That's a good point. Makes me wonder if they did some lab tests of shear strength vs pull-out strength and decided this was the superior solution, even if people's initial instinct is that it's wrong.
Excellent Robin. Thanks for explaining. Really neat fixings
Wait, Robin, by contraption, do you mean a....jig? A beautiful, by the manufacturer jig? And the man who loves who jigs DOESN'T have one?! I. Am. Shocked.
Very cool connectors though!
Will make my own! Nice comment mate
Really enjoying your vids mate! Big thumbs up buddy!!😁👍👍
Thank you 👍
Great video Robin ,thanks
Robin Clevett saludos de chile 🇨🇱🇨🇱🇨🇱🇨🇱
Quality as always
very nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
Very interesting construction nice video.
Hi, I've been watching your videos and can see the toolkits you use. Would you do a video or an Amazon list on beginner tools you'd recommend for the average home diy'er?
Hi Robin. What drill bit were you using to pilot the nail holes? Couldn't quite see what you had attached to the drill. Thanks and great video, as always. Best, ROddy
Can you do a video on fitting this roofing system you have used on the garden room please mate and links to where you got trusses from etc? 👌🏻
they make pockets for bags, its a great place to keep nails and screws
Nice idea with the bits holder on the impact! Is it glue on the impact?
You can buy them. Makita do one. Scott Brown had them on his channel a while back.
no it is a machine screw. Look up Bitmag
@@tentonhammer5469 Scott Brown who ? only joking mate
Great product! Thanks for sharing Robin.
You are so welcome!
Really enjoy your work buddy. Laid up here, very frustrating.
Sorry to hear that
@@ukconstruction no worries mate, thankyou. I have two new knees about ten weeks, so I am getting there 👍
Why are the screws pointing down
Instead of up
good stuff Robin, can you make a video about BESPOKE COWLEY CONNECTIONS?
I will look into it mate and do my best
Thanks for the video, what are the width and height of those glulam beams? Thanks
just found it at 6.57 140 x 270, thanks!
Mind if I ask - which timber frame engineer do you use?
How is this connection locked? What if the wind gets under the roof?
If you look at 10:38 there are fixings either side of those brackets.
Is there away to use these fixings, if you couldn’t come down onto the bracket? Like if you were under-slinging a beam to support pre-existing joists?
Hi Robin, a question for you...If I am doing resin studs into treated timber ledger, and also using treated 6x2 for the frame do you have to use stainless steel nails and stainless steel studs or can you use normal nails and studs.... or have you done a video on it...?? Just was wondering about the treated timbers chemicals and how they affect nails/studs etc....
Doesnt putting that bracket on the top half of the beam mean all the load is taken up in the top 50% of the beam? with the bottom just hanging of it? I would have thought this would reduce the maximum loading capacity of the beam and potentially allow it to split along its length?
You aren't loading the beam up to its maximum shear capacity. The connection will designed for the forces on the beam and not the maximum force the be can take.
@@Aaron-gl8cm But isnt that wasting wood right? get thinner cheaper beam and use its full potential?
@@krellon the timber beam is likely designed for its bending capacity or deflection.
You are right in saying that this connection will not be able to take the full shear load of the beam. Timber design is all about the connection as they are usually the "weakest" point. Even on traditional timber frames member sizes are larger than they need to be to get the connections to work.
The glued timber beam with layered timber and glue acts almost like a horisontal truss, which makes it a lot stronger than a standard wooden beam even if it's not fastened at the bottom. The glue is a very strong bond.
Very nice work!! Question though... how do you connect these "2 horizontal glulam beams" with "the vertical post"? Do they simply rest on the vertical post or is that another joint that was not shown in this video? Any details would be very welcome! Thanks!
Hi Mate, the post end of the glulam is supported by these Simpson connectors and they act like a flat dovetail, the other ends of the beams sit on pockets in the timber frame as normal
Hey Robin, I'm about to build a glulam framed veranda on my timber frame house. I've been on the Simpson website, but the choice of fixings is huge. Can you remember the series number of exactly the ones that you used on the super great video. Cheer 😊
Robin, any videos or help on working out compound angles? I'm building a garden corner sofa, the seat base is pitched 5° and the backrest is at 105°. I'm doing two 30° 'corners' so it's a bit more comfortable than a 45° corner. Trying to figure out the compound cut at a 30° corner where the backrest is pitched at 105° is blowing my mind! 🤬😂
Love your work! Cheers
Should have a look at the program Sketchup if you havent already (Free trial). Not too complicated to use, and really helps when making things like that to sort out the angles/dimensions etc.
Smart.
How do you rate those drills??
Those hidden joint hangers are 40€ here in France
Hi Robin slapped legs me thinks leaving your saw laying on the ground😆😆
Can the connectors be used on green timber?
Might be a daft question but here goes. Would there be any additional fixings? it seems like the weight of the beam is sat on the Simpson plates. In terms of bearing they are max 5mm thick and any movement on post would mean the beam slips?
Apologies if I've got this wrong
They have an angled profile like a french cleat so the weight of the beam/load actually tightens the joint. Lateral movement not possible.
@@mjslug thanks, seems like a no brainer for future works
Heya buddy. Have you had any experience fitting the Simpson BTALU concealed hangers? I'm struggling to work out what method to advise my builder/carpenter to use to form the slot to the supported 120x320mm glulam on site.. needs to be 115mm deep from the end of the beam and ideally not full depth (i.e invisible from underneath). Not sure if a circular/plunge saw would get deep enough. Grab the chisels?
Hi Mate, I have used the connectors that you mention, indeed I have them in my garden house where I have a big glulam frame, I ordered my Glulam pre slotted as the slot for the spine needs to be a pretty good fit, it could be done on site by making a jig and using a router as far as you can then a forstner type drill bit the same size that would follow the slot that the router made and keep everything true, I did have to drill the dowel positions on site and again this was pretty tricky and I made a jig to keep my drill true and aligned
@@ukconstruction Many thanks for the quick reply man, you've made me one happy fanboy today! The method sounds achievable and a lot more sensible/affordable than the chain mortiser approach that Rothoblass suggest on their vid (looks like a cool toy though!!).
All the best.
Great content as always! Where did you get the bit holder on the side of your impact driver from?
It's called a bitmag. Tftools have them
Robin what is the model of Hikoki circular saw you were using when u made that rafter jig template. It looked like it came with a hard plastic case.
Hi Travis
It is a C3607DA36V Multi Volt Circular Saw with Brushless Motor
@@ukconstruction Oh awesome. Thank you.
Hey, do you recommend a milled hammer or?
Hi Mate, I have no preference mostly I use a smooth faced hammer, have a great day!!
@@ukconstruction thanks, you too! :D
Where do,you,buy the glue lam?
What are the roof trusses called robin? Have they got firing strips on in this video to allow for 2.5m maximum height? Cheers
I think this is bigger than 2.5m his got planing permission and looks like metal web joists for roof.
@@dalemoore11 ah ok, thanks for the reply
👍
That corner post sounded pretty dense, is that glulam too? I'm doing a similar detail on a garden room and was proposing a steel post but that looks much better.
Yes this is also Glulam, its a great product and perfect for heavy construction
🚀🚀🚀
Wouldnt say it’s simple mate ❕if it’s the latest technology
👍👍👍👌lovelly
First comment. Kong is Strong.
I've seen shoemakers use less tacks than what goes in them brackets 😯
👍🤟🇮🇪☘️
First
Who cares
@@09conrado Nick does
@@09conrado typing first is something I expect from children. Not grown men 🤦♂️
Great work. But for god sakes man, that hammer of your is Neanderthal. Get a stiletto.
I believe that is his favourite hammer, been with him a long time - if I remember correctly. It seems to work just fine, so why change it :), if it ain't broke ...
I admired you precisely for the traditional solid wood joints. But now with these metal joints on such a massive wood I no longer accept it. Thank you for everything I learned from you. I'm unsubscribing. All the best.
I'd say that's very fickle to unsub from someone for showing an alternate method. I have no idea what videos Robin has lined up. But I can guarantee you'll learn something useful everytime. Your loss. ✌