I've seen copper sheeting installed under the ridge caps with about 3" protruding out onto the roof. This method calms any qualms about exposed nailing.
Yes, that method works great for thicker copper that's more like sheet metal. It's prohibitively expensive to put on as much as you see me do here. If you tried to do that with this thin copper, it would flap around like paper. In my www.roofingripoff.com book I show you photographs of the building where I made the discovery of how copper ions prevent the oxidation of asphalt. The minimum ratio of copper to asphalt is 1:50. The copper you see me use in this video will shed copper ions for at least 50 years even though it's so thin. That's all you need to protect an asphalt roof for two or more owners of the building. The thicker copper you've seen will last 200, or more, years. Most regular people don't need it to last that long.
The copper strips release copper ions each time it rains. These ions bond with asphalt molecules and prevent cross linking. Asphalt becomes hard and brittle when too many asphalt molecules cross link. Brittle asphalt causes the colored granules to come off, the shingles curl, and soon the roof looks shabby. Everything you need to know is in my book. Go download the first three chapters right now at: www.roofingripoff.com
Brian you are correct. That foil will not stand up to high winds over time. If your going to install copper it should be a solid 3" strip with a hemmed edge,and installed under the vent ridge lower edge with 1 1/2" exposure. Plus the foil cap looks ridiculous.
The method in the video is for those that want to do the copper *AFTER a roof is installed*. In new-roof installations, do a blind-nail method as you see in the photo at the top of this page: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/ That's my daughter's new home and the copper has survived five monster Nor'easters and has not come off.
@@quebec801 Aluminum wouldn't work. This thin copper has withstood numerous fierce Nor'easters here in NH and all is good. You just need enough copper to outlast the asphalt. It does no good to put on heavier copper that might last 300 years as flashings on cathedrals, etc.
@@askthebuilder thank you Tim! The amount of exposure (12") is what allows for resistance to algae, lichen and moss for 20-25 feet. 3" exposure won't do it. Also having it cover the whole ridge allows it to 'disappear' whereas installing beneath the top row would make it stand out more.
This is a hack job. Go buy some thin 12 oz copper from menards and at least you could reuse the copper when you're done. And I'm sorry, but advising anyone to not caulk an exposed nail on a roof is just lazy. Sure you're not going to notice the water from one nail, but that's not the point. Any exposed roofing nail will pop up eventually if it's left exposed on a horizontal surface (unless it's a spiral nail).
Thanks for your insight and advice Tim. I live in humid hurricane alley Florida. Algae growth is a persistent problem. I've owned an ocean going boat so I agree that copper kills things (it does a great job on boat bottoms). 60, much less 120 mph winds blowing the copper away with the sparse nails and the weak copper is a concern. While blind nailing it, as you show, would keep the top side attached, the wind would blow up the bottom... Do you have a stronger method to attach the copper?
Hi Tim, I was wondering if you are going to post anymore of your shed DIY project? Tim, the information you posted on that series was so valuable and I appreciate your professional and meticulous instruction. Great tip above by the way. Happy Holidays! Mike
Thanks so much for this fantastic video. It answers almost all my questions. I've been waiting for this to see if I can tackle this job myself. At only 71 years old, I'm sure I can. The only questions left are: - As your other reader queried, can this help mitigate the growth of moss and lichens. If it can, you should make a point of that-not only for cosmetics but also for safety as they tend to make the roof more slippery. - Are you selling the copper sheets? If so, how do we buy it and what lengths does it come in? If you aren't selling it, what thickness copper sheet do you recommend? Jack from NW NJ
Looks like I'm going to need to pin this one to the top! Yes, the copper will STOP all algae, moss and mildew growth. Yes, I sell the copper for LESS money than you can buy anywhere else when you calculate in the COST of the special nails. Go to: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/ to get the current pricing. It comes in just two lengths: 20 and 60 feet.
@@askthebuilder nice PCB board copper 0.0042" or 4.2mil copper roofing is done with minimum 0.0261" why do you do this? No wonder you can't get it anywhere else its not for roofing its for computer components.
Simple. Go back and watch the video once more and pay attention to what I say from 0:16 to 0:23. I suggest you get a copy of my book and gain a competitive edge against all your competitors.
Hi Tim, once you have light moss and Gloeocapsa Magma, how long will it take for copper ridge cover to clean up the roof? I have seen strips installed under the top row of cedar roofs and you can defiantly see the difference.
it depends on the amount of sunlight and how much rain you get. I'm happy to talk on the phone to help you: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
About as thick as a sheet of paper. That's why it's so inexpensive and doable. You only need the copper to last for 20 or 30 years. Thicker copper sheeting is made to last hundreds of years - think of the flashings you see on old government buildings or cathedrals. BUY IT NOW at: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/
You have exposed nails on all roofs. The last cap shingle ha exposed nails. Flashings at the base of dormers and chimneys have had exposed nails for decades to prevent uplift. It's all about how much water rolls over the exposed nail head *and* the type of nail that's used. Mine have ringshanks that help seal the nail shaft. You can also put a sealant over the nailheads if you want, but the UV rays of the sun will destroy the sealant in five years or less. You could solder these nails if you want because the nails are solid copper and the material is solid copper.
You need to read my expose' book: www.RoofingRipoff.com. I'm the first person in the world to discover this magic quality of copper. Get unlimited FREE tips like this each week by subscribing to my newsletter at www.AsktheBuilder.com
It depends. Is the existing roof in fantastic shape? This means no shingles curling, no bare spots where granules are missing, and very little granule loss overall. If the roof already shows extensive wear, the copper is not going to bring it back. You should really read my book. roofingripoff.com
Thanks for your quick reply. It is in good shape with no curling. Does have a little moss on east side of roof but not much. I will read your book. Enjoy your videos. Looking for one now on how to set final drain at floor level for transition between a tub and now a new shower base. Watched your videos on the drain plumbing up to filling hole with foam but need the last piece of the puzzle.
No worries. If it's in good shape, my copper should really work. I sell it for less than anyone else: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/ If you need help on that plumbing issue, I do affordable phone consults. Just finished one two hours ago: shop.askthebuilder.com/products/15-Minute-Phone-Conversation-with-Tim.html
It's 3 oz per square foot. It's about as thick as heavy-duty aluminum foil you'd have in your kitchen pantry. It will probably last on a roof for about 100 years. You'll be dead and gone.
I rarely disagree with you, but I think those exposed nails will leak overtime. Nails should be hidden (except the last shingle on the ridge cap where you dont have an option).
Brad, it's okay to disagree! No harm in that. Let me ask you why you feel this way? I agree it's best for blind nailing roofs, but there are lots of places on common roofs where face-nailing happens. I did too many re-roof jobs on houses built in the early and mid-1900s and have seen thousand of face nails that never leaked. It's important to realize these old nails were not ring-shanked. You'll often find face nailing at base flashings of dormers and chimneys. You'll find them at the corners of some plumbing vent-pipe flashings and ventilation flashings. Smooth-shanked nails were notorious for pulling out of the wood roof sheathing and this movement created a pathway for water. Ring-shanked nails stay put. Can you share your roofing experiences with me where you've seen leaks caused by face nailing?
Ask the Builder What i have seen is that face-nailing (even w ring shank nails [which are MUCH better] ) is that it is still a hole through metal. Over time that long piece of copper will expand & contract with heat & cold every day. And that constant moving back n forth with expansion works back and forth against those nails, slowly expanding the hole that is made around those nails, which can lead to leaks. Same principle as why i dont like exposed fasteners in standing seam metal roofs (hidden fasteners always best). Over time some of those thousands of holes will leak (for various reasons, but one of those reasons is the expansion/contraction of the metal over time working against the screws making the holes they made slightly larger...enough to leak). I am not as experienced as you by a long shot, but i have seen things like this happen over time. Enjoy your channel! Gotten many great tips over the years
If you are worried about leaks, why not put a strip of self sealing membrane under the copper then nail it on. I would think that would stop any possible leaks from the nails.
Joe, yes the copper will stop all algae and mildew growth. For this to happen, there needs to be fairly regular liquid precipitation falling on the roof so the copper ions get washed down the roof. Watch this video I taped about 14 years ago showing how powerful the copper is: czcams.com/video/G93vvGutaLs/video.html
It's best practice to do blind nailing, but up on a ridge cap you don't have the issue of water running down over the nail head. Exposed nails on sill flashings have been non-leakers for decades.
Yes. It's been known for hundreds of years copper is a natural biocide. I was the first person in the world to identify that copper stops asphalt molecules from cross-linking. When that happens, asphalt becomes brittle.
I sell the stuff you saw in the video above. I'd say it's the thickness of heavy duty aluminum foil you'd get at the grocery store. My guess is it will take 100 years to wear it out. Get it here: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/
Oh, I must have missed that! The range is 20-25 feet. Go to this page to see a photo of how it works. Scroll way down towards the bottom:. You'll see a roof with a cupola on it. www.askthebuilder.com/roof-maxx-review/
@@JustNo8808 The more copper the better. It needs to get sunlight on it so the photons break off copper ions that wash down onto the roof with the next rain. It's all covered in my roofingripoff.com book.
The detailed answer is in my roofingripoff.com book. I was the first person in the world to discover that copper slows the oxidation of sun-damaged asphalt molecules. If I were you, I'd grab a copy and become empowered.
You can do what you want, but I'd never do it. The expansion and contraction of the copper would break the bond. Face nailing the copper up on the ridge is not an issue. Drill a pilot hole 60% of the diameter of the copper nails and you'll never have a leak. You can put a dab of silicon caulk on each nail head if you're worried about leaks.
It's good to use your grey cells. The truth is, this material has survived fierce wind storms on many customers' homes with no failure. It's foolproof on new installations where you can fold the edges under the lapping shingles. But for existing installations, you just nail it well and all is good.
You might be confused about the purpose of the copper. While everyone knows it's a biocide as is zinc preventing algae and mildew growth, I was the first in the world to discover copper prevents the cross-linking of asphalt molecules. Do you have the evidence zinc does the same thing? Can you send the scientific evidence to me? The bottom line is zinc may *NOT* do the same as I say in this video.
Sadly you don't know what you're talking about. Look at the photo here. That's lots more than 25 inches... www.askthebuilder.com/installing-copper-strips-under-shingles/
Not sure I understand how one strip of copper at the very top of a roof will improve the life of the whole roof? I get that the protection will occur under the copper but what about below it?
@@dwayne0t You need to be aware of wind damage. You might want to invest in one of my phone coaching calls before you make a SERIOUS mistake: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
@@dwayne0t Can you offer up examples of what kinetic force would rip the metallic copper? It would be helpful to all if you provided a URL to a video showing this damage and what caused it. I can't picture it happening. Help us all out.
Try it again. We had a very pesky problem that wiped out all the websites on my server. It was supposedly fixed overnight. Let me know if it works for you.
Interesting, I was thinking of antifouling for a boat's hull, not a roof. Old boats used to have their hulls covered in copper to stop marine growth and wood eating worms... If it's thick enough... I'll have to remember this!
That's correct. It's been known for hundreds of years that copper is a natural biocide. But I was the first person in the world to discover that copper bonds chemically to asphalt molecules preventing crosslinking. When too many asphalt molecules crosslink, the asphalt becomes brittle and fails. Adding a copper strip up on top of your roof allows shingles to last for 40, 50 or more years. Read about it here: www.roofingripoff.com
This method is what you do on an existing roof. If roofing NEW, look at the photo at the top of this page for the blind-nailing technique: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/
The cupric oxide that travels with the runoff water will kill roof moss. That's why copper nails are used on tree stumps to prevent them regrowing new trees: the copper kills the stump. So the copper will kill flora. How does that stop the runoff from the roof hitting the ground from also killing vegetation alongside your house, like bushes and flowers, and the grass in your lawn? You can install gutters to mitigate the volume of runoff from the eaves of the roof, but that redirected water in the gutters still has to go somewhere, like farther out into the yard, down a driveway to hit the lawn, or down to the street to get carried into the street sewers. Copper oxide is used in some pesticides, and homeowners are warned about letting pesticides run off their lawns into the street sewers which go into ponds, lakes, and streams. CuO is toxic to plants, and even you and others have noted it will kill the algae on a roof. Why would CuO be toxic specific to just those plants, and not to other plants? CuO can be used to kill some fungi in the soil, but that is a one-time or rare treatment, not on every rainfall or snow melt year after year. CuO is also toxic to marine organisms, and that rain falling over your roof has to go somewhere. Regardless of the cost, is filling the city dump with shingles that have to get replaced more often more pollution than poisoning the ground and water bodies with continual dumping of CuO? Copper does have environmental impact. Copper brakes are getting phased out in some state due to its pollution and deleterious effects on plants and animals. So, now your promoting more and more homeowners add to copper pollution. No thanks. Reminds me of consumers that consume lots of water, and even detergent which has to get processed at the sewage plant, to clean recyclables despite there hasn't been a new drop of water made on this planet for millions of years. Pollute one resource to reclaim another. I'm sure the adoption of copper strips onto roofs will be slow and sporadic, so that source of copper pollution won't be addressed until many decades from now.
The copper bonds with the unstable asphalt molecules that have been split apart by the photons from the sun. Don't assume all the copper makes it to the ground.
No one asked for an environmental wacko political dissertation. The miniscule amount of CuO that hits the ground in safely absorbed by the ground. If any actually washes into city processing plants is so miniscule as to be non harmful.
This copper will really help you keep an ion your roof.
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHA!
I've seen copper sheeting installed under the ridge caps with about 3" protruding out onto the roof. This method calms any qualms about exposed nailing.
Yes, that method works great for thicker copper that's more like sheet metal. It's prohibitively expensive to put on as much as you see me do here. If you tried to do that with this thin copper, it would flap around like paper.
In my www.roofingripoff.com book I show you photographs of the building where I made the discovery of how copper ions prevent the oxidation of asphalt. The minimum ratio of copper to asphalt is 1:50.
The copper you see me use in this video will shed copper ions for at least 50 years even though it's so thin. That's all you need to protect an asphalt roof for two or more owners of the building.
The thicker copper you've seen will last 200, or more, years. Most regular people don't need it to last that long.
The copper strips release copper ions each time it rains. These ions bond with asphalt molecules and prevent cross linking. Asphalt becomes hard and brittle when too many asphalt molecules cross link. Brittle asphalt causes the colored granules to come off, the shingles curl, and soon the roof looks shabby. Everything you need to know is in my book. Go download the first three chapters right now at: www.roofingripoff.com
Brian you are correct. That foil will not stand up to high winds over time. If your going to install copper it should be a solid 3" strip with a hemmed edge,and installed under the vent ridge lower edge with 1 1/2" exposure. Plus the foil cap looks ridiculous.
The method in the video is for those that want to do the copper *AFTER a roof is installed*. In new-roof installations, do a blind-nail method as you see in the photo at the top of this page: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/ That's my daughter's new home and the copper has survived five monster Nor'easters and has not come off.
Whats next? Aluminium paper foil
@@quebec801 Aluminum wouldn't work. This thin copper has withstood numerous fierce Nor'easters here in NH and all is good. You just need enough copper to outlast the asphalt. It does no good to put on heavier copper that might last 300 years as flashings on cathedrals, etc.
@@askthebuilder thank you Tim! The amount of exposure (12") is what allows for resistance to algae, lichen and moss for 20-25 feet. 3" exposure won't do it. Also having it cover the whole ridge allows it to 'disappear' whereas installing beneath the top row would make it stand out more.
This is a hack job. Go buy some thin 12 oz copper from menards and at least you could reuse the copper when you're done.
And I'm sorry, but advising anyone to not caulk an exposed nail on a roof is just lazy. Sure you're not going to notice the water from one nail, but that's not the point. Any exposed roofing nail will pop up eventually if it's left exposed on a horizontal surface (unless it's a spiral nail).
Thanks for your insight and advice Tim. I live in humid hurricane alley Florida. Algae growth is a persistent problem. I've owned an ocean going boat so I agree that copper kills things (it does a great job on boat bottoms). 60, much less 120 mph winds blowing the copper away with the sparse nails and the weak copper is a concern. While blind nailing it, as you show, would keep the top side attached, the wind would blow up the bottom... Do you have a stronger method to attach the copper?
You bet. Blind nail it as I did at my daughter's new home. You can see the photo here: www.askthebuilder.com/roof-moss-video/
Perfect! Thank you. @@askthebuilder
Hi Tim, I was wondering if you are going to post anymore of your shed DIY project? Tim, the information you posted on that series was so valuable and I appreciate your professional and meticulous instruction. Great tip above by the way. Happy Holidays! Mike
TNX Mike. I doubt it. If you want to see all of them, you need to purchase access. shop.askthebuilder.com/shed-building-videos/
Nothing wrong with that, I don't mind paying for the good stuff Tim. Cheers
m3mikec
Thanks so much for this fantastic video. It answers almost all my questions. I've been waiting for this to see if I can tackle this job myself. At only 71 years old, I'm sure I can. The only questions left are:
- As your other reader queried, can this help mitigate the growth of moss and lichens. If it can, you should make a point of that-not only for cosmetics but also for safety as they tend to make the roof more slippery.
- Are you selling the copper sheets? If so, how do we buy it and what lengths does it come in? If you aren't selling it, what thickness copper sheet do you recommend?
Jack from NW NJ
Looks like I'm going to need to pin this one to the top! Yes, the copper will STOP all algae, moss and mildew growth. Yes, I sell the copper for LESS money than you can buy anywhere else when you calculate in the COST of the special nails.
Go to: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/
to get the current pricing.
It comes in just two lengths: 20 and 60 feet.
@@askthebuilder nice PCB board copper 0.0042" or 4.2mil copper roofing is done with minimum 0.0261" why do you do this? No wonder you can't get it anywhere else its not for roofing its for computer components.
Simple. Go back and watch the video once more and pay attention to what I say from 0:16 to 0:23. I suggest you get a copy of my book and gain a competitive edge against all your competitors.
Hi Tim, once you have light moss and Gloeocapsa Magma, how long will it take for copper ridge cover to clean up the roof? I have seen strips installed under the top row of cedar roofs and you can defiantly see the difference.
it depends on the amount of sunlight and how much rain you get. I'm happy to talk on the phone to help you: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
Excellent presentation! How thick is the copper sheet used in the video?
About as thick as a sheet of paper. That's why it's so inexpensive and doable. You only need the copper to last for 20 or 30 years. Thicker copper sheeting is made to last hundreds of years - think of the flashings you see on old government buildings or cathedrals. BUY IT NOW at: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/
Nail holes in the roof?
You have exposed nails on all roofs. The last cap shingle ha exposed nails. Flashings at the base of dormers and chimneys have had exposed nails for decades to prevent uplift. It's all about how much water rolls over the exposed nail head *and* the type of nail that's used. Mine have ringshanks that help seal the nail shaft. You can also put a sealant over the nailheads if you want, but the UV rays of the sun will destroy the sealant in five years or less. You could solder these nails if you want because the nails are solid copper and the material is solid copper.
+R Terry He did cover that in this video.
Unless that nail is going through ice and water shield, NOT a good idea.
How long has this been in practice? last 2 to 3 years? have people been using this method for some time?
You need to read my expose' book: www.RoofingRipoff.com. I'm the first person in the world to discover this magic quality of copper. Get unlimited FREE tips like this each week by subscribing to my newsletter at www.AsktheBuilder.com
Can this be added to a existing 15 year old roof with the same results?
It depends. Is the existing roof in fantastic shape? This means no shingles curling, no bare spots where granules are missing, and very little granule loss overall. If the roof already shows extensive wear, the copper is not going to bring it back. You should really read my book. roofingripoff.com
Thanks for your quick reply. It is in good shape with no curling. Does have a little moss on east side of roof but not much. I will read your book. Enjoy your videos. Looking for one now on how to set final drain at floor level for transition between a tub and now a new shower base. Watched your videos on the drain plumbing up to filling hole with foam but need the last piece of the puzzle.
No worries. If it's in good shape, my copper should really work. I sell it for less than anyone else: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/ If you need help on that plumbing issue, I do affordable phone consults. Just finished one two hours ago: shop.askthebuilder.com/products/15-Minute-Phone-Conversation-with-Tim.html
@@askthebuilder Copper Cat advertises that simply installing their copper strips alone will kill existing growths over a period of months
What gauge is your copper roll product? How far down the roof will it prevent moss from growing on my roof?
It's 3 oz per square foot. It's about as thick as heavy-duty aluminum foil you'd have in your kitchen pantry. It will probably last on a roof for about 100 years. You'll be dead and gone.
He did not answer how far down.
20 - 25 feet - he answered that question already - go see pics at shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/
I rarely disagree with you, but I think those exposed nails will leak overtime. Nails should be hidden (except the last shingle on the ridge cap where you dont have an option).
Brad, it's okay to disagree! No harm in that. Let me ask you why you feel this way? I agree it's best for blind nailing roofs, but there are lots of places on common roofs where face-nailing happens. I did too many re-roof jobs on houses built in the early and mid-1900s and have seen thousand of face nails that never leaked. It's important to realize these old nails were not ring-shanked. You'll often find face nailing at base flashings of dormers and chimneys. You'll find them at the corners of some plumbing vent-pipe flashings and ventilation flashings. Smooth-shanked nails were notorious for pulling out of the wood roof sheathing and this movement created a pathway for water.
Ring-shanked nails stay put. Can you share your roofing experiences with me where you've seen leaks caused by face nailing?
Ask the Builder What i have seen is that face-nailing (even w ring shank nails [which are MUCH better] ) is that it is still a hole through metal. Over time that long piece of copper will expand & contract with heat & cold every day. And that constant moving back n forth with expansion works back and forth against those nails, slowly expanding the hole that is made around those nails, which can lead to leaks. Same principle as why i dont like exposed fasteners in standing seam metal roofs (hidden fasteners always best). Over time some of those thousands of holes will leak (for various reasons, but one of those reasons is the expansion/contraction of the metal over time working against the screws making the holes they made slightly larger...enough to leak). I am not as experienced as you by a long shot, but i have seen things like this happen over time. Enjoy your channel! Gotten many great tips over the years
If you are worried about leaks, why not put a strip of self sealing membrane under the copper then nail it on. I would think that would stop any possible leaks from the nails.
Rob, that’s what i would recommend!
Does this also help kill moss growth?
Joe, yes the copper will stop all algae and mildew growth. For this to happen, there needs to be fairly regular liquid precipitation falling on the roof so the copper ions get washed down the roof. Watch this video I taped about 14 years ago showing how powerful the copper is:
czcams.com/video/G93vvGutaLs/video.html
I was told to place the strip beneath the first row of shingles and to nail *beneath* the shingles, or the roof would leak??
It's best practice to do blind nailing, but up on a ridge cap you don't have the issue of water running down over the nail head. Exposed nails on sill flashings have been non-leakers for decades.
Awesome we put some copper strips a little bit thicker than this one to help prevent the growth of moss and it works
Yes. It's been known for hundreds of years copper is a natural biocide. I was the first person in the world to identify that copper stops asphalt molecules from cross-linking. When that happens, asphalt becomes brittle.
so 3oz per square foot works out to be between 4.4 and 5 mil
Very good. I came up with 4.4693248 mil but who's counting?
Hi Tim. How thick was the copper roll? I see online that they offer many different thicknesses starting at 1 mil.
I sell the stuff you saw in the video above. I'd say it's the thickness of heavy duty aluminum foil you'd get at the grocery store. My guess is it will take 100 years to wear it out. Get it here: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/
This is the video we discussed. Steve Barland
Did we also discuss the *THANKS* text link under the video? I can't recall...
Another person ask this but you did not answer? How far down the roof will the Copper strip protect. 5-10-15-20 feet?
Oh, I must have missed that! The range is 20-25 feet. Go to this page to see a photo of how it works. Scroll way down towards the bottom:. You'll see a roof with a cupola on it. www.askthebuilder.com/roof-maxx-review/
@@askthebuilder Wouldn't the pitch effect the length the copper effected?
@@JustNo8808 The more copper the better. It needs to get sunlight on it so the photons break off copper ions that wash down onto the roof with the next rain. It's all covered in my roofingripoff.com book.
Is there a way to do it without nails? Just tuck it under? Adhesive? 12 year old roof. Don't like thinking the nails
On a new roof, blind nail it as you see in this photo. shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/ Feel free to do the same on an existing roof.
@pm4995 3 oz per square foot
Why would just covering the peak / cap shingles with copper sheet extend the lifespan of overall asphalt roof.?
The detailed answer is in my roofingripoff.com book. I was the first person in the world to discover that copper slows the oxidation of sun-damaged asphalt molecules. If I were you, I'd grab a copy and become empowered.
@@askthebuilder that copper slows the oxidation is curious to me.
Hello, just wanted to know if you could use an adhesive instead of nails?
You can do what you want, but I'd never do it. The expansion and contraction of the copper would break the bond. Face nailing the copper up on the ridge is not an issue. Drill a pilot hole 60% of the diameter of the copper nails and you'll never have a leak. You can put a dab of silicon caulk on each nail head if you're worried about leaks.
@@askthebuilder thank you kind sir
@@liquidcooled1 YW as we say in Morse. If you want astounding FREE weekly tips, subscribe to my newsletter at www.AsktheBuilder.com
What is the link to purchase this? I can not find it anywhere
This is the EXACT product. Be sure to blind nail it as you see on my website: amzn.to/3NymIxd
Please share material source
York Mfg in Maine above Portland
Thinking high winds will get under this very thin copper and tear it apart.
It's good to use your grey cells. The truth is, this material has survived fierce wind storms on many customers' homes with no failure. It's foolproof on new installations where you can fold the edges under the lapping shingles. But for existing installations, you just nail it well and all is good.
Strips of zinc or galvy will do the same .
Skinny strips at the top and again 6 ft down
You might be confused about the purpose of the copper. While everyone knows it's a biocide as is zinc preventing algae and mildew growth, I was the first in the world to discover copper prevents the cross-linking of asphalt molecules. Do you have the evidence zinc does the same thing? Can you send the scientific evidence to me? The bottom line is zinc may *NOT* do the same as I say in this video.
@@askthebuilder can you do a video on how it words? it would be interesting to watch
@@gemmrk I describe in great detail how it works here: shop.askthebuilder.com/roofing-ripoff-pdf-ebook/
LOL. 12 inch wide copper do you know what that cost it’ll kill your bank account more than it kills moss. And it only works for about five rows.
Sadly you don't know what you're talking about. Look at the photo here. That's lots more than 25 inches... www.askthebuilder.com/installing-copper-strips-under-shingles/
Not sure I understand how one strip of copper at the very top of a roof will improve the life of the whole roof? I get that the protection will occur under the copper but what about below it?
As I said in the video, I think, it's all explained in my Roofing Ripoff book. Go to: www.roofingripoff.com
Copper salts trickle down the roof slope when it rains.
I have 29' of shingles on each side.What about 16" copper, there is no ridge vent.
That's a good plan. Be sure to blind nail it as you see in the photo at the TOP of this page: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/
@@askthebuilder This is an existing roof, cant I apply it on the ridge cap shingles as you demonstrate, only with some overhang?
@@dwayne0t You need to be aware of wind damage. You might want to invest in one of my phone coaching calls before you make a SERIOUS mistake: shop.askthebuilder.com/15-minute-phone-or-video-conversation-with-tim/
@@askthebuilder The York 106PT copper will rip long before any damage to the cap shingles, no?
@@dwayne0t Can you offer up examples of what kinetic force would rip the metallic copper? It would be helpful to all if you provided a URL to a video showing this damage and what caused it. I can't picture it happening. Help us all out.
Me: oh Im really interested in how copper keeps roofs clean. . .ok he said its on the website ill just follow this link. Dang "error 403"
Try it again. We had a very pesky problem that wiped out all the websites on my server. It was supposedly fixed overnight. Let me know if it works for you.
How thick should the copper strip be?
Think heavy-duty aluminum foil. 3 ounces per square foot. You can get it here: amzn.to/3PzXWiq
Interesting, I was thinking of antifouling for a boat's hull, not a roof. Old boats used to have their hulls covered in copper to stop marine growth and wood eating worms... If it's thick enough... I'll have to remember this!
That's correct. It's been known for hundreds of years that copper is a natural biocide. But I was the first person in the world to discover that copper bonds chemically to asphalt molecules preventing crosslinking. When too many asphalt molecules crosslink, the asphalt becomes brittle and fails. Adding a copper strip up on top of your roof allows shingles to last for 40, 50 or more years. Read about it here: www.roofingripoff.com
Too bad it looks ridiculous lol. I like the look of the kind you tuck under the shingles better.
This method is what you do on an existing roof. If roofing NEW, look at the photo at the top of this page for the blind-nailing technique: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/
The cupric oxide that travels with the runoff water will kill roof moss. That's why copper nails are used on tree stumps to prevent them regrowing new trees: the copper kills the stump. So the copper will kill flora. How does that stop the runoff from the roof hitting the ground from also killing vegetation alongside your house, like bushes and flowers, and the grass in your lawn? You can install gutters to mitigate the volume of runoff from the eaves of the roof, but that redirected water in the gutters still has to go somewhere, like farther out into the yard, down a driveway to hit the lawn, or down to the street to get carried into the street sewers. Copper oxide is used in some pesticides, and homeowners are warned about letting pesticides run off their lawns into the street sewers which go into ponds, lakes, and streams. CuO is toxic to plants, and even you and others have noted it will kill the algae on a roof. Why would CuO be toxic specific to just those plants, and not to other plants? CuO can be used to kill some fungi in the soil, but that is a one-time or rare treatment, not on every rainfall or snow melt year after year. CuO is also toxic to marine organisms, and that rain falling over your roof has to go somewhere. Regardless of the cost, is filling the city dump with shingles that have to get replaced more often more pollution than poisoning the ground and water bodies with continual dumping of CuO? Copper does have environmental impact. Copper brakes are getting phased out in some state due to its pollution and deleterious effects on plants and animals. So, now your promoting more and more homeowners add to copper pollution. No thanks. Reminds me of consumers that consume lots of water, and even detergent which has to get processed at the sewage plant, to clean recyclables despite there hasn't been a new drop of water made on this planet for millions of years. Pollute one resource to reclaim another. I'm sure the adoption of copper strips onto roofs will be slow and sporadic, so that source of copper pollution won't be addressed until many decades from now.
The copper bonds with the unstable asphalt molecules that have been split apart by the photons from the sun. Don't assume all the copper makes it to the ground.
No one asked for an environmental wacko political dissertation. The miniscule amount of CuO that hits the ground in safely absorbed by the ground. If any actually washes into city processing plants is so miniscule as to be non harmful.
That looks like straight trash, and a 50+ mph wind would send that whole piece to the next state.
Not if you BLIND NAIL it on new installations as you see in the top photo on this page: shop.askthebuilder.com/copper-roof-strips/