I have a friend who is a Blacksmith and he showed me the same sparks you have going on. As far as I understand it, the sparks are metal burning. My thinking is that you are getting to melting temp then going way above it very quickly and therefore burning and oxidising the metal before it can 'puddle'. Maybe see if you can get to melting temp and then hold it there without burning? Would be interesting to see if this changes your results. Great project! :)
I could only dream of an induction heater of that stature! Well done! I'm still working on my ZVS induction heater with relative success, and some failures, but even failure is a success of sorts.
Yes well I don't quite yet have the knowledge to make a full bridge inverter as of yet so for now I'm having a great time with my "shitty" zvs induction heater
Hello. How did you calculate the matching transformer, which feeds the series circuit of the inductor? This transformer can be seen at 3.28 time on video. Maybe you know where i can read about the design of such transformers. Thank you
Congrats! Sugg; Why are you using that big ferrite toroid on the output coil. The output tank can go directly to the 4 transistor driver & it will give more output.
can you put a tube in the middle with water flowing through it then going to some baseboard heating. can you heat water then pump it to your house and heat it?
Sir, you mention that you would publish de build details at 3:57 in the video. Yes I listen to the video several times and took notes. Can you tel me where I can find these details. I am specially interested in the characteristics of the toroid which you used on the coper coil. Merci Beaucoup.
:D ... Is it even more beautiful in person? You behold a piece of functional electronic/physics art! ... Yes, I am jealous, looking forward to your implementation and observations. B
Hi i made induction furnace but i have one qustion what amount of voltage required in work coil and current i set 10 to 100 volatge what is best i have work coil of 20 turns and 50 uh
What's the point of producing these omndirectional expanding magnets? Later research will show if they restrict expansion in any of the orthogonal axis this behavior will stop. Much like if we stop a gyroscope from preceding it will fall.
Since this furnace needs a lot of parts, where are you finding parts at reasonable costs ?? I just like that you are really working hard on making things happen without fear of FAILURE. I will be doing the same thing soon. Hope you can guide me with asked question. Nice work fella too.
I don't know where Mr. Zero Labs gets his parts, but I get a lot of parts from aliexpress and banggood for pretty good prices. If you "will be doing the same thing soon.", you might want to start out with a complete ZVS induction heater. 1800 watt units start out as low as about $60.00.
hi!! great job, its evident you know a lot about electronics, thanks for sharing!! i have a doubt, its possible to turn it on when there is a pice of metal inside the induction coil???or you have to wait the circuit to be oscilating on its own before you use it.
Hello Tim. I am not the original poster of this video. But I did try turning my 2500 watt Chinese ZVS induction heater on with metal in the work coil and it worked okay. Here's what I did: I first apply power mains power to my DC supply and wait for it to be ready for full power (about 4 1/2 seconds) Then I placed a 2 1/2 inch diameter thick wall aluminum tube fully into the 10 turn work coil which has a 2 5/8" inner diameter. I then switched on the DC power to the circuit. In this case, the total DC amperage went to 17 amps. I didn't see any "spiking" of the current as I did this, so I think it will work just fine. When I removed the aluminum tube from the work coil, the current dropped to about 6 amperes, which is normal "idling" current for that setup. My other experiments with Chinese ZVS induction heaters can be seen here: spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm Pete Stanaitis ----------------------
+Kyle Micallef My tank resonates at 54KHz give or take a couple depending on the load material placed inside and temperature. When I say "locked" that means the PLL oscillator found the peak resonance and locked onto that frequency. It then stays locked even as conditions inside the work coil change. For instance, as steel heats, when it reaches the Currie temperature, it becomes non-magnetic. That loss of magnetic permeability changes the inductance of the coil and the resonance of the tank. The PLL circuit follows those changes to stay locked at peak resonance. You're going to hear me talk a lot about Currie temperature as the experiment progresses as it's an important factor in the manufacture of the alloy.
I look forward to the day where info like this rewrites the books and is taught in schools along with the premise "This is how it works AS BEST WE KNOW" instead of teaching incorrect information as settled fact.
None. The whole point is to size the caps to not exceed the max voltage rating at resonance. This is calculated from the tank circuit impedance at resonance.
Not my video, but I did work in the high Vacuum heat treating industry years ago. Answer: No. We didn't melt steel there, but we did melt copper and heat things up to about 2300F on regular basis. We used the melting point of silver to check instrument calibration, by the way. Nobody ever told us to adjust for the vacuum (which usually was in the 1/10 of a micron range.)
What material is required for the crucible? Does this coil have to sit inside the crucible or can u slot the crucible inside the coil? Forgive my ignorance, electrical engineering type stuff is wonderfully fascinating but i have little knowledge in the field except what people are trying to do with resonance (which is where my true interest is along with crystalline based electro charge geometry and dynamics
I apologize if it seems that I am hijacking this post. But I have answers to some of these questions here: spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm
I may be just guessing... but have you tried submerging the electronics in a tank of deionized water or mineral oil? The pc overclockers sometimes submerge their entire electronics. It may wick away the heat more efficiently and eliminate any hot-spots/ burnouts. Another thing I would attempt (but may not work) is trying surplus Russian military CAN capacitors. Series a few up for the correct value and pass each with a VERY SMALL value film etc. to up the response time. On one project I was working on; I tried replacing same value large cans with small hi-voltage film... the films melted almost instantly. Yet the cans had been doing duty for many years. The surplus military can caps are cheap as dirt and virtually indestructible. These capacitors together may solve your issues. Check eBay for the Russian caps.
Hello Rick, I have been experimenting with using a ZVS device to make steam, for home heating and to run a small steam engine. See my CZcams channel here: czcams.com/users/zerwell47 My testing indicates that there is a lot more BTUs being admitted to the testing room, than is represented in the input energy: Input voltage- 120V AC at 60 Hz at 4 amps (E field) = 480 watts/hr. The secondary output: 40V AC at 50Khz at 500 amps = 20 Kw/hr. of Electro-Magnetic Oscillations (waves) (EMO) (B field). The B field, acts at 90 degrees to the E field. Apparent COP = 41.6. When the B field comes into the vicinity of Ferrite materials, the iron atoms start to vibrate violently, causing BTUs to be thrown out of the “Sea of Energy” enveloping all matter. I am having severe overheating problems on the secondary. The #10 stranded electric wire, supplying the coil is melting the plastic coating. Your suggestion of submersing the equipment in mineral oil seems like a worthwhile consideration. Thank you for the idea. Chuck Bagwell, Erie, MI.
You're reaching Curie temperature and you don't have the power to overcome it. The metal hits a certain temperature and loses its magnetic properties. Thus, your induction heater is not as effective. You're hovering in that state.. the metal will sparkle as you go back and forth gaining and losing temp. Put it in the proper crucible and you can overcome this. Or get a more powerful induction heater where you can control the frequency.
Your videos are awesome sir! I have loads of surplus electronic equipment you might be able to use. If you live anywhere near me I would love to visit you and bring a few things you might be able to use? Best wishes to you & please be safe! Cheers! LW
Ok. After my rather rude criticism, the least I can do is to help out a little. I just saw your design. It is a self oscillating full bridge to drive the tank circuit. Just like the usual push-pull ZVS except that you're making it a Full Bridge. You still don’t need the PLL. If you're going for self oscillating then learn how to make the gate driver using T2. Don’t disconnect T2 from the way you have it running now. If it runs now then the polarities are already connected correctly. Just push the start wire of T3 through the hole and it will self oscillate. It may start at around 50 Volts at the input. Just 4 transistors with the input power as you have it, the gate drive transformer and the main transformer. There are tons of self oscillating circuits that use feedback from the collector or Drain with a transformer to feed back to the gates. Think about my suggestion. Sketch it out and see that it works. Also since you're only using it for the induction heater, you don’t need the filter caps on the high voltage line. very expensive and useless in this application. 3500 uF x 2 etc. at the input rectifier. take them all out and use them somewhere else. your load does not care if it is DC or 120Hz AC,
Yeah dude, I see that he didn't see your response but those are awesome points there. In addition to that, the input capacitors are also worsening the power factor, which we get penalized for. I'd like to see your view. Since it's not right to send RF in the power lines, would it be ok to put some tiny value cap after removing the rectifier and the 3500uF? I'm in a similar project, but I'm constructing an induction cooktop. So what's your view on that? And any suggestions for my project?
well, you still need the rectifier without the 2 big caps. dont worry about PF. if they do penalize you for that it is almost insignificant. all the appliances in ur house with motors have low PF. so dont worry about that. and yes you can make a simple L/C EMI filter at the input before the rectifiers.
yes indeed that is a lot of fun and very pretty. I am strait off to 4hv to search for your project there. I am very interested in the alloying process and would like to know if you have any documentation on the rest of the project as I will be trying to replicate this in the next few weeks. If I was a rich man I would definitely but 2 celem caps...1 for you and 1 for me. thanks for the excellent explanation and informative style. best of luck sir!
zero have you ever heard about experiment with water bubble bombarded with sound waves ? I think it's called sunoluminesence please please please try to replicate the results of that experiment
could you run a central heating pipe throuth the coil to heat the pipe to get cheap central heating to the whole house and hot water ,would that be economical ,to good to be true??? I can see why i went throuhg the school system and never herd of nikola tesla and wilhelm reich, supressed knowledge
There would be NO heating advantage. Nothing "cheap" about it. The electrical energy needed to run the circuit is the source of the heating power. One could just simply buy an electric heater and get the same heating ability. Regarding Tesla, etc.: There is so much knowledge to be transferred these days that it is no surprise to me that Tesla wouldn't be covered. But I think that depends upon which classes were available and which classes you chose to take in school. Do they even have "electric shop" in high school anymore? Pete Stanaitis ---------------------
@@harlolindo7749 I suggest that you gather some more specific information- -Exactly how large is the container? If you are describing a propane cylinder, what size is it? -Verify that the container is made from steel, not brass or copper. -Do you want to heat the whole thing, at one time or just some portion of it? -To what temperature does it need to be heated? How rapidly? -If your application is not a "secret", be prepared to discuss your goals.. Then contact a company such as: www.inc.com/profile/ameritherm-inc or: www.ambrell.com/ or: radyne.com/ There are, of course, Chinese companies that make or resell larger induction heating units, such as: www.alibaba.com/product-detail/25kw-50kw-80kw-100kw-120kw-160kw_60018066977.html? and: spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.1.2ee2e886mvZFl6&s=p I have no connection with any of the above, except that our blacksmith club had a demonstration put on by the Radyne people several years ago, and they seemed like nice people. Many people buy a Chinese Induction heater that can produce about 7.5 KW (even though it is sold as a 15 KW unit). Here is one example of that product offering, but you might need more power that this one can provide: www.amazon.com/Frequency-Induction-Furnace-Silver-Copper/dp/B00WHU96P6
I need to heat a mixture of iron and gallium to form an alloy and cool it gradually starting from one tip of a crucible to the other. See czcams.com/video/2xjhK2aSV1E/video.html
1) Much more likely to sublimate the metal, 2) More difficult to control the temperature during the cool-down phase, 3) Atmosphere around the molten metal impossible to control using a gas flame with water byproduct.
Here is a 3kw induction heater made by me czcams.com/video/TRYKMu2_wFA/video.html , it melts stainless stell (non magnetic) wich is much harder to melt than normal steel. You can see how it lifts up the piece o metal, melts it and then almost levitate it until the power cuts off.
Once iron and steel reach the curie temperature they too become nonmagnetic. Mine will operate at 3KW from household current when I switch from 120VAC to 240VAC. It would be nice if you open sourced your design.
One thing I don't understand. Why is everyone spending the big bucks trying to reinvent the wheel? High current HF induction coils are a byproduct of the Tesla coil and it's variants. People quickly noticed that iron inside the primary coil would quickly glow red hot or even melt. If you want a good induction coil, just make a high output (1k to 2k watts) Tesla primary circuit. It is not rocket science. If you want a specific frequency, then specifically design and tune the primary coil / parallel capacitance for that frequency as you would for a good match to a Tesla secondary. Homemade, I could build a target frequency resonant coil/cap tank for under fifty bucks.
"The circuit I ended up making is a full Phase Locked Loop with H-bridge power driver. There was no other way to get reliable high power." why the PLL? and what is a "Full" PLL vs what? half a PLL? i have made at least 20 different H-Bridge drivers ranging from 500 Watts to 120 KW and never needed a PLL. PLL is used for synchronizing. What are you synchronizing to? Invariably when I see an old man on CZcams, who is experimenting I find that he makes things as unnecessarily complicated as possible. Either he is a BS artist and wants money from the public or he is just floundering around and does not have the patience to read the theory.. Are you retired and bored so youre doing this? have you been banished to the basement? There are so many HBridge drivers on CZcams, why don’t you copy what they are doing instead of messing around. And then the “REAL” reason you are making this is to tinker around with some Gallium alloy. So how much power do you need for that? You can buy a 1KW unit on eBay for $30. So how much time and money have you spent on this BS PLL HBridge?
I see not everyone is only money oriented.Thanks God they are guys like you
good to see you back
Very impressive Z...
I have a friend who is a Blacksmith and he showed me the same sparks you have going on. As far as I understand it, the sparks are metal burning. My thinking is that you are getting to melting temp then going way above it very quickly and therefore burning and oxidising the metal before it can 'puddle'. Maybe see if you can get to melting temp and then hold it there without burning? Would be interesting to see if this changes your results. Great project! :)
Great job Mark!
wow, most interesting, thanks for posting, looking forward to seeing updates. only 1500watt, nice.
Great job Zero.
I enjoy your video's Mark even tho I don't understand completely how all this stuff works. I wish I knew more about this stuff, it's very interesting.
Awesome Video great job Z
Nice job. I'm thinking of building another one again.
Since you like this Zero I suggest when you get that bell jar you look into sputtering. Create lovely surface alloys.
Great project
It's basic power and transformer theory. Impedance ratio is the turns ratio squared. Power is voltage squared divided by impedance.
great job... success always is your business... congrats
Thanks a lot for your explain ... i have to make PLL using IC 4046 but I'm afraid if it cannot lock at resonance freq
im a new subscriber keep it up i love these types of videos I also love to tinker with stuff
it's so wonderful and nice surprise..! there is same avometer DYNASCAN on my hobby room...SİNCE 45 YEARS...:D
I could only dream of an induction heater of that stature! Well done! I'm still working on my ZVS induction heater with relative success, and some failures, but even failure is a success of sorts.
Yes well I don't quite yet have the knowledge to make a full bridge inverter as of yet so for now I'm having a great time with my "shitty" zvs induction heater
I'd call your reply very disrespectful. If you can't say something nice, don't say anything.
Just to be clear, I was commenting about "Durchgebaut"'s post. about that "ZVS is s**t ---".
Sometimes it is easy to forget that we all had to start somewhere :)
good for you! don't be disheartened. ZVS is also good. no switching losses.
Hello. How did you calculate the matching transformer, which feeds the series circuit of the inductor? This transformer can be seen at 3.28 time on video. Maybe you know where i can read about the design of such transformers. Thank you
Congrats! Sugg; Why are you using that big ferrite toroid on the output coil. The output tank can go directly to the 4 transistor driver & it will give more output.
can you put a tube in the middle with water flowing through it then going to some baseboard heating. can you heat water then pump it to your house and heat it?
I can't find anything on Alt-nrg about this induction heater have a link or ?
nice hair cut. I mean induction heater. ;) looking good Z ~Russ
+rwg42985 I shaved for my audience too!!! :P
C'est super
Sir, you mention that you would publish de build details at 3:57 in the video. Yes I listen to the video several times and took notes. Can you tel me where I can find these details. I am specially interested in the characteristics of the toroid which you used on the coper coil. Merci Beaucoup.
Nice work. One of those expensive caps would be awesome. Good stuff man.
Ordered Monday. Should be here today!
That's great. Looking forward. :)
twitter.com/0_Labs/status/915742236108869632
:D ... Is it even more beautiful in person? You behold a piece of functional electronic/physics art! ... Yes, I am jealous, looking forward to your implementation and observations.
B
Nice to see that you not are using your time, one something there are not walking anyway Best
Pls give description about ferrite core material
Hi i made induction furnace but i have one qustion what amount of voltage required in work coil and current i set 10 to 100 volatge what is best i have work coil of 20 turns and 50 uh
What's the point of producing these omndirectional expanding magnets? Later research will show if they restrict expansion in any of the orthogonal axis this behavior will stop. Much like if we stop a gyroscope from preceding it will fall.
Non jello, magnotromitor what? Sounds interesting. Is it like circumnavigation of Lenz law? Or a solid state EM generator?
What sort of temperatures does this thing generate?
The only clue you give is the Curie temperature.
Can it reach temperatures of 2300° and above?
:
Since this furnace needs a lot of parts, where are you finding parts at reasonable costs ?? I just like that you are really working hard on making things happen without fear of FAILURE. I will be doing the same thing soon. Hope you can guide me with asked question. Nice work fella too.
I don't know where Mr. Zero Labs gets his parts, but I get a lot of parts from aliexpress and banggood for pretty good prices. If you "will be doing the same thing soon.", you might want to start out with a complete ZVS induction heater. 1800 watt units start out as low as about $60.00.
@@frenchcreekvalley Thank you for letting me know Sir. I will take your advice on sourcing items needed for the project.
hi!! great job, its evident you know a lot about electronics, thanks for sharing!! i have a doubt, its possible to turn it on when there is a pice of metal inside the induction coil???or you have to wait the circuit to be oscilating on its own before you use it.
Hello Tim. I am not the original poster of this video.
But I did try turning my 2500 watt Chinese ZVS induction heater on with metal in the work coil and it worked okay.
Here's what I did:
I first apply power mains power to my DC supply and wait for it to be ready for full power (about 4 1/2 seconds)
Then I placed a 2 1/2 inch diameter thick wall aluminum tube fully into the 10 turn work coil which has a 2 5/8" inner diameter. I then switched on the DC power to the circuit.
In this case, the total DC amperage went to 17 amps. I didn't see any "spiking" of the current as I did this, so I think it will work just fine.
When I removed the aluminum tube from the work coil, the current dropped to about 6 amperes, which is normal "idling" current for that setup.
My other experiments with Chinese ZVS induction heaters can be seen here:
spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm
Pete Stanaitis
----------------------
What frequency of AC are you using?
Is that what you mean by "locked on", are you finding and using the materials ideal frequency?
+Kyle Micallef My tank resonates at 54KHz give or take a couple depending on the load material placed inside and temperature. When I say "locked" that means the PLL oscillator found the peak resonance and locked onto that frequency. It then stays locked even as conditions inside the work coil change. For instance, as steel heats, when it reaches the Currie temperature, it becomes non-magnetic. That loss of magnetic permeability changes the inductance of the coil and the resonance of the tank. The PLL circuit follows those changes to stay locked at peak resonance. You're going to hear me talk a lot about Currie temperature as the experiment progresses as it's an important factor in the manufacture of the alloy.
I look forward to the day where info like this rewrites the books and is taught in schools along with the premise "This is how it works AS BEST WE KNOW" instead of teaching incorrect information as settled fact.
what are u talking about. he made a design for an induction heater.
@ 11:49 sure it wasn't galvanized?
Hello, you talk about the capacitors being 250Vac in the series resonant circuit , but how much overvoltage You get at resonance?
None. The whole point is to size the caps to not exceed the max voltage rating at resonance. This is calculated from the tank circuit impedance at resonance.
it looks like the bolt is getting both EM heating and a short from last turn so its a double power
I wonder if you could use a vacuum chamber instead of an argon chamber, would it significantly lower the melting temperature?
Not my video, but I did work in the high Vacuum heat treating industry years ago. Answer: No. We didn't melt steel there, but we did melt copper and heat things up to about 2300F on regular basis. We used the melting point of silver to check instrument calibration, by the way. Nobody ever told us to adjust for the vacuum (which usually was in the 1/10 of a micron range.)
My glovebox could never hold that vacuum. Nor could anyone work with gloves inside a vacuum.
Good afternoon. Fellow, you can ask me to provide the diagram
What would be required, to extend the coil to create a 12 inch cylinder for heating 1 inch bar stock?
12" long x 1" bar stock requires 2 KW. 1" x 1". 36.37 seconds/inch; 436.46 secs/foot
John Conrad Many thanks. This helps me a lot.
What material is required for the crucible? Does this coil have to sit inside the crucible or can u slot the crucible inside the coil? Forgive my ignorance, electrical engineering type stuff is wonderfully fascinating but i have little knowledge in the field except what people are trying to do with resonance (which is where my true interest is along with crystalline based electro charge geometry and dynamics
I apologize if it seems that I am hijacking this post. But I have answers to some of these questions here:
spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm
Would you sell this in kit form? I like:)
I may be just guessing... but have you tried submerging the electronics in a tank of deionized water or mineral oil? The pc overclockers sometimes submerge their entire electronics. It may wick away the heat more efficiently and eliminate any hot-spots/ burnouts.
Another thing I would attempt (but may not work) is trying surplus Russian military CAN capacitors. Series a few up for the correct value and pass each with a VERY SMALL value film etc. to up the response time. On one project I was working on; I tried replacing same value large cans with small hi-voltage film... the films melted almost instantly. Yet the cans had been doing duty for many years. The surplus military can caps are cheap as dirt and virtually indestructible. These capacitors together may solve your issues. Check eBay for the Russian caps.
Hello Rick,
I have been experimenting with using a ZVS
device to make steam, for home heating and to run a small steam engine. See my
CZcams channel here: czcams.com/users/zerwell47
My testing indicates that there is a lot more
BTUs being admitted to the testing room, than is represented in the input
energy: Input voltage- 120V AC at 60 Hz at 4 amps (E field) = 480 watts/hr.
The secondary output: 40V AC at 50Khz at 500
amps = 20 Kw/hr. of Electro-Magnetic Oscillations (waves) (EMO) (B field). The
B field, acts at 90 degrees to the E field. Apparent COP = 41.6.
When the B field comes into the vicinity of
Ferrite materials, the iron atoms start to vibrate violently, causing BTUs to
be thrown out of the “Sea of Energy” enveloping all matter.
I am having severe overheating problems on
the secondary. The #10 stranded electric wire, supplying the coil is melting
the plastic coating.
Your suggestion of submersing the equipment
in mineral oil seems like a worthwhile consideration. Thank you for the idea.
Chuck Bagwell, Erie, MI.
Maybe come up with the colloids this guy-Petros Zografos- uses to create hydrogen with RF?
Why you put zener diode between gate resistor and gate
Clamps transient over voltage from destroying the MOSFET.
Whats your frequency of operation? Those look like Beryllium insulators which is highly carcinogenic. you can make clay spacers or even a crucible
54KHz. Insulators are aluminum oxide. I do plan to make some of my own ceramic forms.
Ceramic forms... u said it. use pieces of ceramic tiles or get some 4"x4" small tiles for
cool! i mean hot... well done! thank you Zzz!!! ,\o/:)
You're reaching Curie temperature and you don't have the power to overcome it. The metal hits a certain temperature and loses its magnetic properties. Thus, your induction heater is not as effective. You're hovering in that state.. the metal will sparkle as you go back and forth gaining and losing temp. Put it in the proper crucible and you can overcome this. Or get a more powerful induction heater where you can control the frequency.
I realize this. Working on it. Thanks for following.
Your videos are awesome sir! I have loads of surplus electronic equipment you might be able to use. If you live anywhere near me I would love to visit you and bring a few things you might be able to use? Best wishes to you & please be safe! Cheers! LW
And where might that be?
he doesnt say where... another wild goose chase
Why not using oscillator based driver and controller!
By definition, this *IS* an oscillator based circuit.
Nifty
Ok. After my rather rude criticism, the least I can do is to help out a little. I just saw your design. It is a self oscillating full bridge to drive the tank circuit. Just like the usual push-pull ZVS except that you're making it a Full Bridge. You still don’t need the PLL. If you're going for self oscillating then learn how to make the gate driver using T2. Don’t disconnect T2 from the way you have it running now. If it runs now then the polarities are already connected correctly. Just push the start wire of T3 through the hole and it will self oscillate. It may start at around 50 Volts at the input. Just 4 transistors with the input power as you have it, the gate drive transformer and the main transformer. There are tons of self oscillating circuits that use feedback from the collector or Drain with a transformer to feed back to the gates. Think about my suggestion. Sketch it out and see that it works.
Also since you're only using it for the induction heater, you don’t need the filter caps on the high voltage line. very expensive and useless in this application. 3500 uF x 2 etc. at the input rectifier. take them all out and use them somewhere else. your load does not care if it is DC or 120Hz AC,
Yeah dude, I see that he didn't see your response but those are awesome points there. In addition to that, the input capacitors are also worsening the power factor, which we get penalized for. I'd like to see your view. Since it's not right to send RF in the power lines, would it be ok to put some tiny value cap after removing the rectifier and the 3500uF? I'm in a similar project, but I'm constructing an induction cooktop. So what's your view on that? And any suggestions for my project?
well, you still need the rectifier without the 2 big caps. dont worry about PF. if they do penalize you for that it is almost insignificant. all the appliances in ur house with motors have low PF. so dont worry about that. and yes you can make a simple L/C EMI filter at the input before the rectifiers.
Why did you choose 54 KHz?
Why not 30 KHz or even lower?
Pete Stanaitis
lower the frequency larger the object to experience equivalent field. And you need more of those expensive caps.
yes indeed that is a lot of fun and very pretty. I am strait off to 4hv to search for your project there. I am very interested in the alloying process and would like to know if you have any documentation on the rest of the project as I will be trying to replicate this in the next few weeks. If I was a rich man I would definitely but 2 celem caps...1 for you and 1 for me. thanks for the excellent explanation and informative style. best of luck sir!
zero
have you ever heard about experiment with water bubble bombarded with sound waves ? I think it's called sunoluminesence
please please please try to replicate the results of that experiment
I have seen it. With all due respect, that is not the direction I am going. I need to remain focused here.
could you run a central heating pipe throuth the coil to heat the pipe to get cheap central heating to the whole house and hot water ,would that be economical ,to good to be true??? I can see why i went throuhg the school system and never herd of nikola tesla and wilhelm reich, supressed knowledge
There would be NO heating advantage. Nothing "cheap" about it. The electrical energy needed to run the circuit is the source of the heating power. One could just simply buy an electric heater and get the same heating ability.
Regarding Tesla, etc.: There is so much knowledge to be transferred these days that it is no surprise to me that Tesla wouldn't be covered. But I think that depends upon which classes were available and which classes you chose to take in school. Do they even have "electric shop" in high school anymore?
Pete Stanaitis
---------------------
How can I contact you, I need a large induction heater with the coil diameter 0.5 m .
What do you need to heat? (I am not Mr. Zero Labs, but I can suggest some contacts).
email: spaco@baldwin-telecom.net
I need to heat a human sized gas container. I don't want to build it, I want to buy it.
@@harlolindo7749
I suggest that you gather some more specific information-
-Exactly how large is the container? If you are describing a propane cylinder, what size is it?
-Verify that the container is made from steel, not brass or copper.
-Do you want to heat the whole thing, at one time or just some portion of it?
-To what temperature does it need to be heated? How rapidly?
-If your application is not a "secret", be prepared to discuss your goals..
Then contact a company such as:
www.inc.com/profile/ameritherm-inc
or:
www.ambrell.com/
or:
radyne.com/
There are, of course, Chinese companies that make or resell larger induction heating units, such as:
www.alibaba.com/product-detail/25kw-50kw-80kw-100kw-120kw-160kw_60018066977.html?
and:
spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.1.2ee2e886mvZFl6&s=p
I have no connection with any of the above, except that our blacksmith club had a demonstration put on by the Radyne people several years ago, and they seemed like nice people.
Many people buy a Chinese Induction heater that can produce about 7.5 KW (even though it is sold as a 15 KW unit).
Here is one example of that product offering, but you might need more power that this one can provide:
www.amazon.com/Frequency-Induction-Furnace-Silver-Copper/dp/B00WHU96P6
I need to heat a mixture of iron and gallium to form an alloy and cool it gradually starting from one tip of a crucible to the other. See czcams.com/video/2xjhK2aSV1E/video.html
Prepare for lift off
seems you could have used just an hho water-torch if you wanted to melt metal..you did that before didn't you
1) Much more likely to sublimate the metal, 2) More difficult to control the temperature during the cool-down phase, 3) Atmosphere around the molten metal impossible to control using a gas flame with water byproduct.
ok makes sense
Should we be shielding ourselves from a device like this?
Here is a 3kw induction heater made by me czcams.com/video/TRYKMu2_wFA/video.html , it melts stainless stell (non magnetic) wich is much harder to melt than normal steel. You can see how it lifts up the piece o metal, melts it and then almost levitate it until the power cuts off.
Once iron and steel reach the curie temperature they too become nonmagnetic. Mine will operate at 3KW from household current when I switch from 120VAC to 240VAC. It would be nice if you open sourced your design.
Only 1.5 Kw
What's your point?
What I mean, it is with only 1.5 kW can get as much power into heat..
1.5 KW is what u get from the 120VAC mains. so what are u saying? 1.5KW..... and????
Better to offer schematics please
One thing I don't understand. Why is everyone spending the big bucks trying to reinvent the wheel? High current HF induction coils are a byproduct of the Tesla coil and it's variants. People quickly noticed that iron inside the primary coil would quickly glow red hot or even melt. If you want a good induction coil, just make a high output (1k to 2k watts) Tesla primary circuit. It is not rocket science. If you want a specific frequency, then specifically design and tune the primary coil / parallel capacitance for that frequency as you would for a good match to a Tesla secondary. Homemade, I could build a target frequency resonant coil/cap tank for under fifty bucks.
"The circuit I ended up making is a full Phase Locked Loop with H-bridge power driver. There was no other way to get reliable high power." why the PLL? and what is a "Full" PLL vs what? half a PLL? i have made at least 20 different H-Bridge drivers ranging from 500 Watts to 120 KW and never needed a PLL. PLL is used for synchronizing. What are you synchronizing to?
Invariably when I see an old man on CZcams, who is experimenting I find that he makes things as unnecessarily complicated as possible. Either he is a BS artist and wants money from the public or he is just floundering around and does not have the patience to read the theory.. Are you retired and bored so youre doing this? have you been banished to the basement?
There are so many HBridge drivers on CZcams, why don’t you copy what they are doing instead of messing around. And then the “REAL” reason you are making this is to tinker around with some Gallium alloy. So how much power do you need for that? You can buy a 1KW unit on eBay for $30. So how much time and money have you spent on this BS PLL HBridge?
Boy, was that an educational post or what? I'll bet you don't have many friends. You better hope that you never get "old"!