@@HighlineGuitars LOL, ok Chris. Don't break your arm. My comment was just making the title more descriptive, for the benefit of your viewers. But if you want to take it personally...
@@HighlineGuitars I've been commenting positively on your channel for years. One time I criticize your lack of a descriptive title, and this is how you respond. You can call me a troll if you wish, but you're coming off insecure and immature. Stay humble.
@@getenlightened Your original comment was a smart ass remark, not a critique. It makes you look like your angry because you can't afford a $10k CNC machine.
Nice simple instructions. I never thought about using aluminum for making woodworking tools before but it makes sense if you’re looking for stability and longevity. Thanks for opening up possibilities. I’m thinking this would work using old style 20th century home workshop power tools on aluminum as well.
Chris, don't listen to these jerks. I've been following you for years and incorporate tons of your techniques into my guitar building. I recently purchased a CNC and one of the things I wanted to do was build my tools. You were the first person I went to because I know you build your tools and anyone who has watched any of your videos knows you've been working with CNC for a very long time. You even built your own CNC from scratch! I have ordered my block of aluminum to do this exact project and I appreciate the bit recomendations, speeds and feeds etc...for a CNC newbie like me it's a god-send. Keep up the good work brother! You're my go-to when I have a guitar building issue because I know you've been there, done that....
On aluminum, we use WD-40 both as a lubrication agent and to keep the cutting tools and aluminum cool. With a piece of stock that thin and that long, the heat will build up in the piece as it is being cut. That heat can cause it to bend up like a banana during the machining ops, then when it cools, it can either lay back down or sometimes it will curl worse... All that said, the resulting error might be a few thousands of an inch. If you can live with some error, then it's no problem. We use a giant shell mill to cut the profile into our radius beams. It's fun to see how quickly the chips fly!!!
In my experience, the biggest factors are your feed rate and depth of cut on each pass. If you go slow enough and shallow enough, you don't need any lubricant. If you were manufacture these sanding beams and had to put them out at high volume, lubricant would save you time.
My concern with any device where I cannot see the effect I am having on the material I am sanding is that I may go too far or find that I am off line. This certainly applies to the concave crowning file that StewMac sells and I prefer a crowning file working on each side separately. Although the idea here seems simple I don't see much gain over a shorter block which allows me to see where I am hitting the frets (or missing them) and when to stop. I would be interested to know how others have approached this issue.
Use a Sharpie marker to mark the tops of your frets. As you file, stop frequently to gauge your progress.When leveling, you're done when the mark is gone from all of the frets. When you're crowning, the line should get thinner and remain in the center of the frets length. In the end, you'll find there is no tip or trick that can replace skill and experience.
Just to throw in my 2 cents...I built a jig that centers both the neck/fretboard, held down with 2 sided tape. It has raised walls on either side that snug up to the radius block. I simply move the block back and forth along the fretboard and the sidewalls keep it from straying from dead center. Works for both radiusing fretboard and for leveling the frets.
That's the tool I was thinking about making! Also I was thinking about a jig for compound radii. How would you tackle compund fretboards? I was thinking about making one of these with the compound radius and sand in the direction of the frets but trying to put more pressure where the beam would travel a smaller distance, but then that wouldn't be too accurate and it would be kind of useless for the fretboard itself since you'd be sanding across the grain. I also tought about one of those dangly things with two different length arms suspending the neck, but something tells me this approach is also problematic.
For compound radius fretboards, I use my CNC machine with a very fine finishing operation that doesn't require finish sanding. For leveling frets on a compound board, I spot level rather than use a beam.
@@HighlineGuitars I’ve found that if you use a *flat* sanding/leveling beam that is long enough to span the entire length of the fretboard you’re working on, make sure the nut on gtr is removed, and use nothing lower than P400 sandpaper (I’d start with 600 at first to play safe) and use the sanding/leveling technique of going in *perpendicular* sanding motions ONLY (instead of the typically done lengthwise/up-n-down-the-fretboard type motions) works fantastically.. *as long as* you make SURE to skew the motions *towards the bridge side* to be a “longer” stroke so that the whole operation follows the *conical* shape of the fretboard, you can achieve fantastic results! You *must* pre-blue (sharpie etc) all the frets before starting and must check *often* to verify it’s going accordingly. Use radius gauges to check. This technique can also give a gtr that has a static radius a compound radius on the frets too if done right! However - you probably don’t want to use any extremes in your radii selection, to limit the ultimate amount of fret material being removed and subsequent crowning work Cheers
Wish I had CNC. My only issue is that I worry the software is too hard for a doofus like me to figure out. Lol. These things are expensive on Stewmac and being able to make one from aluminum is a massive cost saver. You really need several blocks and beams of different lengths, etc. Great video. Thanks!
@@sergeyromashkin7876 agreed, I'm always surprised to find out how many people who live around me have a machine and the experience to do something simple like this.
Mark, great video. Do you offer your service to fabricate these in different radius/length (shorter) ? I have an Ibanez that has a 12.5 radius and have not been able to find anything aftermarket.
Bill - If you need a custom aluminum radiusing beam like “Mark’s” (Chris....) here, I would look into your local metal/CNC shops in the area and just call around and ask what it would cost and compare their prices against if they supplied the material and/or the CAD file. It would probably be very economical compared to going thru any luthier supplier
@@TylrVncnt It would probably be cheaper to buy one. I spent 40 years as a machininst and because CNC's are primarily for high production runs, it would be cost prohibitive for a shop to generate a program and the set the machine up to run just one part. Finding a hobbyist with a small CNC mill would be the best bet. I know my brother has one but not sure how big the work area as he's in Missouri and I'm in Texas.
Hey could u make a 16” radius beam, aluminum, 20” long or so for me please? If so, let me know please, also how much would cost me…!?! I always like when someone is taking the “idea” (which is on the market already) to the next level, a “precision Japanese” level, why not…!?? Thank u for your videos…
Good now everyone watching can just plug in the program for their CNC Mill... or CNC machining center they have in the back of their shop and make their own $20 sanding block... out of $140 piece of aluminum stock .... perfect
@@HighlineGuitars Not exactly in poverty... In fact I have a machine shop...I built and sold steam engines during the Y2K scare ... and modified steam engine valves designs but no CNC stuff... Im sure i could figure something out on my Lathe too .. However , this seems to be a machining sort of video more than a educational one about luthier tools I watch your videos... this one just theew me for a loop ...like everyone is going to have a Machine shop.. took me a long time to put one together..
i saw the title.. and I said "Yes!" but learning that I need a cnc machine I said " Oh NO!" can't afford that.. the title can attract a lot of viewers and probably many will have the same reaction..
@@HighlineGuitars I think it depends.. in my case, because i am learning how to fix guitars and the tools can be very expensive, I look for alternatives. "Am I going to buy cnc machine just to make a radius block?"
"How to make a fretboard radius sanding block with a $10,000 CNC machine"
Fixed the title ;)
"How Smart People Who Make Good Decisions In Life Make A Fretboard Radius Sanding Block"
Fixed your comment ;)
@@HighlineGuitars LOL, ok Chris. Don't break your arm.
My comment was just making the title more descriptive, for the benefit of your viewers. But if you want to take it personally...
@@getenlightened Troll
@@HighlineGuitars I've been commenting positively on your channel for years. One time I criticize your lack of a descriptive title, and this is how you respond. You can call me a troll if you wish, but you're coming off insecure and immature. Stay humble.
@@getenlightened Your original comment was a smart ass remark, not a critique. It makes you look like your angry because you can't afford a $10k CNC machine.
Nice simple instructions. I never thought about using aluminum for making woodworking tools before but it makes sense if you’re looking for stability and longevity. Thanks for opening up possibilities.
I’m thinking this would work using old style 20th century home workshop power tools on aluminum as well.
Chris, can you at some point do a deep dive into your Rhino process for creating this file plus also a fretboard radius?
I’m thinking of doing that with my current 6 string multi-scale project. czcams.com/play/PL7TLAFxVOtrUWrmGO4-C_nwdwCuCVzNns.html&si=G--fLQnrfCOg4rx-
Chris, don't listen to these jerks. I've been following you for years and incorporate tons of your techniques into my guitar building. I recently purchased a CNC and one of the things I wanted to do was build my tools. You were the first person I went to because I know you build your tools and anyone who has watched any of your videos knows you've been working with CNC for a very long time. You even built your own CNC from scratch! I have ordered my block of aluminum to do this exact project and I appreciate the bit recomendations, speeds and feeds etc...for a CNC newbie like me it's a god-send. Keep up the good work brother! You're my go-to when I have a guitar building issue because I know you've been there, done that....
Sorry pal, you can't change the rules: "how to make" CANNOT apply to a video with a CNC machine.
@@brownobservablephenomena You've obviously never used a CNC, it's more work than you think. Plus, just go away.
Hey Chris do you mind sharing the bits used, feed and speeds please ? Thx
You can also machine compound radius beams.
On aluminum, we use WD-40 both as a lubrication agent and to keep the cutting tools and aluminum cool. With a piece of stock that thin and that long, the heat will build up in the piece as it is being cut. That heat can cause it to bend up like a banana during the machining ops, then when it cools, it can either lay back down or sometimes it will curl worse... All that said, the resulting error might be a few thousands of an inch. If you can live with some error, then it's no problem. We use a giant shell mill to cut the profile into our radius beams. It's fun to see how quickly the chips fly!!!
There was no heat generated during the carve. Both the bit and material were barely warm after it was done.
In my experience, the biggest factors are your feed rate and depth of cut on each pass. If you go slow enough and shallow enough, you don't need any lubricant. If you were manufacture these sanding beams and had to put them out at high volume, lubricant would save you time.
My concern with any device where I cannot see the effect I am having on the material I am sanding is that I may go too far or find that I am off line. This certainly applies to the concave crowning file that StewMac sells and I prefer a crowning file working on each side separately. Although the idea here seems simple I don't see much gain over a shorter block which allows me to see where I am hitting the frets (or missing them) and when to stop. I would be interested to know how others have approached this issue.
Use a Sharpie marker to mark the tops of your frets. As you file, stop frequently to gauge your progress.When leveling, you're done when the mark is gone from all of the frets. When you're crowning, the line should get thinner and remain in the center of the frets length. In the end, you'll find there is no tip or trick that can replace skill and experience.
Just to throw in my 2 cents...I built a jig that centers both the neck/fretboard, held down with 2 sided tape. It has raised walls on either side that snug up to the radius block. I simply move the block back and forth along the fretboard and the sidewalls keep it from straying from dead center. Works for both radiusing fretboard and for leveling the frets.
What is the thickness of the sand paper when measured in different spots with a caliper? What is the tolerance?
I have no idea and see no reason to care.
could you tell me were you purchased this aluminum would like to make one
www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-X-3-1-2-ALUMINUM-6061-FLAT-BAR-20-long-T6511-Solid-Extruded-Mill-Stock-/362618741342?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
That's the tool I was thinking about making! Also I was thinking about a jig for compound radii. How would you tackle compund fretboards? I was thinking about making one of these with the compound radius and sand in the direction of the frets but trying to put more pressure where the beam would travel a smaller distance, but then that wouldn't be too accurate and it would be kind of useless for the fretboard itself since you'd be sanding across the grain. I also tought about one of those dangly things with two different length arms suspending the neck, but something tells me this approach is also problematic.
For compound radius fretboards, I use my CNC machine with a very fine finishing operation that doesn't require finish sanding. For leveling frets on a compound board, I spot level rather than use a beam.
@@HighlineGuitars I’ve found that if you use a *flat* sanding/leveling beam that is long enough to span the entire length of the fretboard you’re working on, make sure the nut on gtr is removed, and use nothing lower than P400 sandpaper (I’d start with 600 at first to play safe) and use the sanding/leveling technique of going in *perpendicular* sanding motions ONLY (instead of the typically done lengthwise/up-n-down-the-fretboard type motions) works fantastically.. *as long as* you make SURE to skew the motions *towards the bridge side* to be a “longer” stroke so that the whole operation follows the *conical* shape of the fretboard, you can achieve fantastic results!
You *must* pre-blue (sharpie etc) all the frets before starting and must check *often* to verify it’s going accordingly. Use radius gauges to check.
This technique can also give a gtr that has a static radius a compound radius on the frets too if done right! However - you probably don’t want to use any extremes in your radii selection, to limit the ultimate amount of fret material being removed and subsequent crowning work
Cheers
Wish I had CNC. My only issue is that I worry the software is too hard for a doofus like me to figure out. Lol. These things are expensive on Stewmac and being able to make one from aluminum is a massive cost saver. You really need several blocks and beams of different lengths, etc. Great video. Thanks!
Find someone who offers CNC carving services.
@@sergeyromashkin7876 agreed, I'm always surprised to find out how many people who live around me have a machine and the experience to do something simple like this.
I agree with the expense and learning curve of C&C. Id probably want to kill myself two days into it.
About $100 at Philadelphia Luthier Supply and its 21 1/2" long compared to Stewmac's 18" long
@@Rod_Daigle why would one want to pay 100$ for a fretboard?
Mark, great video. Do you offer your service to fabricate these in different radius/length (shorter) ? I have an Ibanez that has a 12.5 radius and have not been able to find anything aftermarket.
Sorry Fred, I don't.
Bill - If you need a custom aluminum radiusing beam like “Mark’s” (Chris....) here, I would look into your local metal/CNC shops in the area and just call around and ask what it would cost and compare their prices against if they supplied the material and/or the CAD file. It would probably be very economical compared to going thru any luthier supplier
@@TylrVncnt
It would probably be cheaper to buy one. I spent 40 years as a machininst and because CNC's are primarily for high production runs, it would be cost prohibitive for a shop to generate a program and the set the machine up to run just one part. Finding a hobbyist with a small CNC mill would be the best bet. I know my brother has one but not sure how big the work area as he's in Missouri and I'm in Texas.
How about some home made tools that are not made on a c&c.
Search through my past videos. I have many on the subject of homemade tools made without CNC.
Would this work for a compound radius fretboard?
Sort of. You have to make two half length (10" instead of 20") sanding blocks. One for the starting radius and another for the finishing radius.
Chris, did you run both passes in same direction?? or the finishing pass in the short direction across the piece?
The rough pass was along the Y axis and the finish was along the X axis.
@@HighlineGuitars y axis is the long side of the piece? not sure which way you have your machine setup or how you ran it, just curious
@@joem6859 I forgot to mention the X axis is across the width of the project.
"scrap rosewood" way to flex bro you win lol
Hey could u make a 16” radius beam, aluminum, 20” long or so for me please? If so, let me know please, also how much would cost me…!?!
I always like when someone is taking the “idea” (which is on the market already) to the next level, a “precision Japanese” level, why not…!??
Thank u for your videos…
Sorry, but I only make guitars and tools for myself.
Good now everyone watching can just plug in the program for their CNC Mill... or CNC machining center they have in the back of their shop and make their own $20 sanding block... out of $140 piece of aluminum stock .... perfect
I paid $18 for the aluminum on eBay. Poverty sucks.
@@HighlineGuitars Not exactly in poverty... In fact I have a machine shop...I built and sold steam engines during the Y2K scare ... and modified steam engine valves designs but no CNC stuff...
Im sure i could figure something out on my Lathe too ..
However , this seems to be a machining sort of video more than a educational one about luthier tools I watch your videos... this one just theew me for a loop ...like everyone is going to have a Machine shop.. took me a long time to put one together..
Is the CC machine free
What’s a CC machine?
@@HighlineGuitars my apologies CNC, most guys looking at this are trying to make a piece at home. They don’t have machines of 5hat calibre.
@@havennewbowtow8835 Sorry! My channel is really intended for those who do.
i saw the title.. and I said "Yes!" but learning that I need a cnc machine I said " Oh NO!" can't afford that.. the title can attract a lot of viewers and probably many will have the same reaction..
So every how to video on CZcams should list the tools used in the title? That’s just crazy talk.
@@HighlineGuitars I think it depends.. in my case, because i am learning how to fix guitars and the tools can be very expensive, I look for alternatives. "Am I going to buy cnc machine just to make a radius block?"
That size of aluminum cost $60 in my place😥
*Scrap rosewood*?????? :(
dude , no one has all that machinery at home....why dont you just sell em already made ?
Dude, my videos are for people who do have all this machinery. That's why I only have 69K subscribers.
You didn't make that beam.
CNC did it
You didn't make your comment.
A computer did.
Please, change the title. With the money I need to make what you suggest I buy 10.000 sanding blocks !!!
And what would you suggest for a title?
@@HighlineGuitars "How to make radius sanding block for $10,000"?... Come on my friend, just humor !
VIDEO GARBAGE IF NOT SHOW PICTURES OR VIDEOS WHEN MAKING IT. THAT´S BAD. A SUPER A LOT OF LIKES LOST.
Noted. And thanks for your input!