I have a 1984 dodge 360 motor on an old Lindsay 150 air compressor. I has a seized water pump that I broke loose. Motor still running good but it was getting hot after a few minutes and boiling over the radiator. Scratching my head on it. So I figured the water pump vanes on the pump had most likely corroded off. NOPE the pump was good but its getting replaced. So I decided best thing to do was replace the water pump. So once I got it pulled I found one side of the inlets to the head was completely plugged solid with a crystalized material. Motor still full of antifreeze in the heads. NOTE this motor has set for many many years. Also while cleaning there was big pits in the timing chain cover that was seeping small amounts of water into the oil pan. This was a fresh pit break though, so not even enough water had gotten into the oil to change the color of the oil. So I had to clean the head inlet by doing a ton of flushing, clean tested the thermostat. Then ended up having to change out the timing chain cover and the water pump. Now everything is sealed correctly. Cleaned the radiator with a flush and a lot of water flushing until clean. This plugged inlet to one side of the head was the mail problem. Would have never found the issue without pulling the pump, So NOW problem solved. NO more overheating. Engines setting for many years can have many problems that are hard to find.
had a 1976 ford 5.0. Replace pump and was running hot. Pulled the new pump and it was the wrong rotation. Could not get a cast replacement anywhere. Finally got an Edelbrock high flow and had to shim all the pulleys to make belts line up. Always check the rotation of the impellor.
Just had my 83 d150 overheat while i had it idling for a bit. Shes been good while on the highway previously so i'm thinking i'm just not getting enough airflow as its got some dinky electric fans set up right now. That and she probably could use a good flush as the overflow can is a nice rusty orange now. Thanks for giving some good starting points without another "replace your cap" which is what everyone was suggesting.
Very good and thorough explanation. Just troubleshooted one overheating problem and it is the water pump going bad leaking through the seal. The leak allows the water to empty to where there is not enough in the cooling system and it overheats. It is a Camry 2007 and it is time for water pump and timing belt replacement. Thanks for the post. Very helpful.
a partially clogged radiator will cause overheating, even if u can run a water hose through one end and out the other it might need cleaning out or rebuilt... and those newer style water pumps with a stamped steel impeller can cause the water too move too slow and that will make steam ,again overheating,,,hunt for ,look and find a water pump with a cast iron impeller, works great at moving water and lasts longer too.
I changed everything thats coolant related. All belts and upgraded to a severe fan clutch too... Nothing worked. I bought a new overflow coolant cap..now my 454 stays within temp..didnt think the overflow affected the system? 454 7.4l
NOTE: Internal Clogged (Engine Block Passage) is the hardest and you could pull all your Hair out before you realized it's in the " Engine Block Passage Clogged " ://.
my old dodge (89 d150 318/727) would run right ware it should then traffic or hill it would run hot. old owner had put a heavy spec water pump thermostat and a standard radiator. couldn't finger it out. the motor got pulled and tore down, the water jackets in the block looked like some sort of clay was in them. miss that old motor what killed that one was a worn out roller cam.
I am torn between getting a high flow water pump or another new radiator (got the one from autoZone for $140 but didn’t do the trick) to figure out my f250 7.5l 460 engine. As soon as it is under any load it gets hot as heck and very sluggish
I have seen in severely neglected cooling systems (or where people use plain water) where the blades on the water pump have corroded away. Usually by this point the radiator and heater core are beginning to plug up and replacing parts and a through block flush are the only cure. Flushing (heck even just draining the radiator and refilling with 50/50 mix) the cooling system every 3-4 years regardless of mileage helps prevent corrosion. Even if the vehicle is not driven, coolant helps prevent corrosion and keeps the rubber from degrading. And I agree; plastic water pump impellers are very stupid. When they break, getting all of the plastic pieces out of the block is a total pain.
Great video and great information. I have one question. Do you know what the problem could be if the coolant reservoir looks like it's boiling? 1991 Nissan D 21 truck overheats, steam from exhaust, boiling/ bubbling coolant reservoir. Could it be the head gasket?
Yes. Classic signs. Pull the head, have it checked for cracks and have it surfaced. It WILL be warped. Go back together following the torque specs perfectly. Keep the revs under 4,000 those engines don't like high rpms.
I have 360 magnum cammed with Eddie heads fully built i cant even get a tune on it cause i have baby it to break it in and to top it off it turns off i have to keep the pedal at 900 rpms it runs cool at idle but underload it creeps up and i have to pull over its a brand new engine i cnt even break it in i changed water pump three times bought another radiator i saw redish thickish stuff that came out. i see people cutting blades off the water pump on youtube leaving 4 blades that supposedly pull more heat of the block ? I think more blades the better but . i took off the thermostat same issue but now i believe this redish clay is in the block i can't even go on the highway it starts to creep up i need help what if get the 3rd row radiator is twice thicker is bout $400 and if it still does
"Reddish clay" sounds just like stop leak. What size radiator are you using? A V8 needs a 26" radiator at the minimum. Was "another" radiator a NEW radiator or just one that may or may not be plugged? Don't mess with the water pump... a stock pump works well and a mad scientist experiment is just going to screw something up. First off get the block clean, then clean the radiator and go from there. If the radiator is questionable go ahead and find a new rad.
I have a metal impeller and one vein on its broken it's a high flow unit from summit it came broke I was in a jam and installed it on my 7.5l 91f250 do you think it could be causing cavitation? I also put a 4core with electric fans in it trying to make it run generally cooler now it runs hotter WTF need help it's still getting hot when I remove the thermostat
The key is WHEN does it get hot....at speed or sitting idling? Is this a new radiator you installed? Have you checked the engine timing to make sure it isn't advanced too far? No vacuum leaks? Have you shot the temperatures at the radiator and on the thermostat housing to make sure they are matching what you gauge indicates?
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage it's a new 4core aluminum with 2 12" fans in a shroud, timing no I didn't check it hasn't been messed with for awhile,no I have not shot both temps the coolant overflowing out the reservoir was enough for me , It gets about 200 on highway traffic is an overheat if I'm sitting still or barely moving unless I keep the rpms up, 25 mph in drive it gets hot 25mph in second it comes down a bit
Not enough airflow. Usually the fan clutch has failed. Remember that the fan keeps it cool sitting still, the airflow coming from the outside keeps it cool on the highway.
Youve forgot a fourth way a water pump can fail. My 1979 dodge truck had the bearings fail on the water pump and the water pump locked up and broke the belts.
LOL....The dumb mechanic i just went to put a new radiator on my Jeep for overheating.....and nothing is any better!!!! He acts like he doesnt have a clue now what is wrong with my Jeep!!!!
I have a 1984 dodge 360 motor on an old Lindsay 150 air compressor. I has a seized water pump that I broke loose. Motor still running good but it was getting hot after a few minutes and boiling over the radiator. Scratching my head on it. So I figured the water pump vanes on the pump had most likely corroded off. NOPE the pump was good but its getting replaced. So I decided best thing to do was replace the water pump. So once I got it pulled I found one side of the inlets to the head was completely plugged solid with a crystalized material. Motor still full of antifreeze in the heads. NOTE this motor has set for many many years. Also while cleaning there was big pits in the timing chain cover that was seeping small amounts of water into the oil pan. This was a fresh pit break though, so not even enough water had gotten into the oil to change the color of the oil. So I had to clean the head inlet by doing a ton of flushing, clean tested the thermostat. Then ended up having to change out the timing chain cover and the water pump. Now everything is sealed correctly.
Cleaned the radiator with a flush and a lot of water flushing until clean. This plugged inlet to one side of the head was the mail problem. Would have never found the issue without pulling the pump, So NOW problem solved. NO more overheating. Engines setting for many years can have many problems that are hard to find.
had a 1976 ford 5.0. Replace pump and was running hot. Pulled the new pump and it was the wrong rotation. Could not get a cast replacement anywhere. Finally got an Edelbrock high flow and had to shim all the pulleys to make belts line up. Always check the rotation of the impellor.
Just had my 83 d150 overheat while i had it idling for a bit. Shes been good while on the highway previously so i'm thinking i'm just not getting enough airflow as its got some dinky electric fans set up right now. That and she probably could use a good flush as the overflow can is a nice rusty orange now. Thanks for giving some good starting points without another "replace your cap" which is what everyone was suggesting.
The OEM clutch fan with a good HD clutch will solve your airflow problem for sure.
Very good and thorough explanation. Just troubleshooted one overheating problem and it is the water pump going bad leaking through the seal. The leak allows the water to empty to where there is not enough in the cooling system and it overheats. It is a Camry 2007 and it is time for water pump and timing belt replacement. Thanks for the post. Very helpful.
That's right. I've seen more corroded radiators causing overheating than bad water pumps.
Correct. Explained well. Unless oil is super low those are the main factors in cooling system issues.
Please explain low oil. I think I let my oil get to low and now I'm overheating
a partially clogged radiator will cause overheating, even if u can run a water hose through one end and out the other it might need cleaning out or rebuilt... and those newer style water pumps with a stamped steel impeller can cause the water too move too slow and that will make steam ,again overheating,,,hunt for ,look and find a water pump with a cast iron impeller, works great at moving water and lasts longer too.
I changed everything thats coolant related. All belts and upgraded to a severe fan clutch too... Nothing worked. I bought a new overflow coolant cap..now my 454 stays within temp..didnt think the overflow affected the system? 454 7.4l
NOTE: Internal Clogged (Engine Block Passage) is the hardest and you could pull all your Hair out before you realized it's in the " Engine Block Passage Clogged " ://.
Thanks, that's true.
my old dodge (89 d150 318/727) would run right ware it should then traffic or hill it would run hot. old owner had put a heavy spec water pump thermostat and a standard radiator. couldn't finger it out. the motor got pulled and tore down, the water jackets in the block looked like some sort of clay was in them. miss that old motor what killed that one was a worn out roller cam.
What if the guage shows low temp but after a few minutes the reservoir seems to boil over? Pump?
what car do you have?
What would you say is wrong with an f150 that only overheats at coasting speeds. When the engine is under load or at idle it’s fine.
I am torn between getting a high flow water pump or another new radiator (got the one from autoZone for $140 but didn’t do the trick) to figure out my f250 7.5l 460 engine. As soon as it is under any load it gets hot as heck and very sluggish
@Tyler’s forgotten car rescue
I have seen in severely neglected cooling systems (or where people use plain water) where the blades on the water pump have corroded away. Usually by this point the radiator and heater core are beginning to plug up and replacing parts and a through block flush are the only cure. Flushing (heck even just draining the radiator and refilling with 50/50 mix) the cooling system every 3-4 years regardless of mileage helps prevent corrosion. Even if the vehicle is not driven, coolant helps prevent corrosion and keeps the rubber from degrading. And I agree; plastic water pump impellers are very stupid. When they break, getting all of the plastic pieces out of the block is a total pain.
Can burnt valves, valve lash or timing cause overheating?
Great video and great information. I have one question. Do you know what the problem could be if the coolant reservoir looks like it's boiling? 1991 Nissan D 21 truck overheats, steam from exhaust, boiling/ bubbling coolant reservoir. Could it be the head gasket?
Yes. Classic signs. Pull the head, have it checked for cracks and have it surfaced. It WILL be warped. Go back together following the torque specs perfectly. Keep the revs under 4,000 those engines don't like high rpms.
I have 360 magnum cammed with Eddie heads fully built i cant even get a tune on it cause i have baby it to break it in and to top it off it turns off i have to keep the pedal at 900 rpms it runs cool at idle but underload it creeps up and i have to pull over its a brand new engine i cnt even break it in i changed water pump three times bought another radiator i saw redish thickish stuff that came out. i see people cutting blades off the water pump on youtube leaving 4 blades that supposedly pull more heat of the block ? I think more blades the better but . i took off the thermostat same issue but now i believe this redish clay is in the block i can't even go on the highway it starts to creep up i need help what if get the 3rd row radiator is twice thicker is bout $400 and if it still does
"Reddish clay" sounds just like stop leak. What size radiator are you using? A V8 needs a 26" radiator at the minimum. Was "another" radiator a NEW radiator or just one that may or may not be plugged? Don't mess with the water pump... a stock pump works well and a mad scientist experiment is just going to screw something up. First off get the block clean, then clean the radiator and go from there. If the radiator is questionable go ahead and find a new rad.
I have a metal impeller and one vein on its broken it's a high flow unit from summit it came broke I was in a jam and installed it on my 7.5l 91f250 do you think it could be causing cavitation? I also put a 4core with electric fans in it trying to make it run generally cooler now it runs hotter WTF need help it's still getting hot when I remove the thermostat
The key is WHEN does it get hot....at speed or sitting idling? Is this a new radiator you installed? Have you checked the engine timing to make sure it isn't advanced too far? No vacuum leaks? Have you shot the temperatures at the radiator and on the thermostat housing to make sure they are matching what you gauge indicates?
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage it's a new 4core aluminum with 2 12" fans in a shroud, timing no I didn't check it hasn't been messed with for awhile,no I have not shot both temps the coolant overflowing out the reservoir was enough for me , It gets about 200 on highway traffic is an overheat if I'm sitting still or barely moving unless I keep the rpms up, 25 mph in drive it gets hot 25mph in second it comes down a bit
the impeller can and dose sometimes completly rust away, just google it!
Yes it can
What if you changed that Radiator?
So what if it starts heating up at a light and goes back down when you start moving
Not enough airflow. Usually the fan clutch has failed. Remember that the fan keeps it cool sitting still, the airflow coming from the outside keeps it cool on the highway.
Youve forgot a fourth way a water pump can fail. My 1979 dodge truck had the bearings fail on the water pump and the water pump locked up and broke the belts.
Dang....
dohh!
Lol all that hand work.
LOL....The dumb mechanic i just went to put a new radiator on my Jeep for overheating.....and nothing is any better!!!! He acts like he doesnt have a clue now what is wrong with my Jeep!!!!
BlaBlabla
You talk to much dude
New rule for the channel...if you don't know the difference between TO and TOO, which was taught in grammar school, don't comment.