Timing an FTE From Scratch (1HDFTE Rebuild Pt 4)
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- čas přidán 20. 01. 2022
- This week we time the FTE from scratch, attach the rest of the fuel components including injectors, lines, fuel return rail, etc. And get the engine just about ready to go back in the 100 series!
If you have any comments or questions about the build, please let me know! I may even be able to cover your questions in next weeks episode or on instagram (see socials links below)
RESOURCES:
General torque specs 1HZ/1HDT/FT/FTE- www.sugarlump.no/cruiser/1HD-T...
ECD-V fuel pumps (FTE is V4)- gershon.ucoz.com/Denso/injpump...
1HDFT engine manual (not quite the same engine but close, applicable for most procedures)- www.manualslib.com/download/8...
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I'll use this space to stress that I am not a qualified mechanic! Just a mechanical apprentice giving it a go :)
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DISCLAIMER:
This video is for entertainment purposes only. I am not a fully trained, but merely a mechanical apprentice. I take no responsibility from any repercussions from potentially false or misleading information provided in this video. To complete any of the jobs, procedures or vehicle upgrades shown in this video, please see your local mechanic. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
The time and precision gone into this! Absolutely outstanding! 🤩
Legend 😍 Thanks heaps Ethan! ☺️
Lovin the vids mate, looking forward to it starting 👍
Really good edits !!! Learning so much . Cheers
Keep up the great vids mate love watching 👌
Love ya work mate. 👌👌👌
Awesome video Mate! 👌
Looking like you are thorough Will and have time to do the Job properly, looks a bit exciting with it all coming together
Very nice video, mate. I will check mine, too.
Based on your video I can be easy to replace from my Engine cylinder head from 1 HDT for 1 HDT-FE. The bottom part is the same. It could give me more power due to more saction of air.
You shouldve pressure tested the injector return rail that runs along the top of the injectors. Its all too common for them to leak and even tho it may only be a drip, over time it will start to fill the sump to the extent the engine will take off and or oil pressure will drop away. Only needs 5-10psi max put into it.
Something to look into for the next service and future projects. Thanks for that 👍👍
Trivial information, but today my Dad's 76 hit 150 000km, while is was driving. (had to stop to take a picture).
2010 model HZJ76 (SA spec)🇿🇦
Timming belt was done 2000kms ago before a trip. So with the help of the internet I could turn off the T.belt light.
Edit: So in Land Cruiser terms she's barely worn in or considered still a baby.
150,000 is still a baby! Hopefully you’ll get a lot more k’s and years out of that one 😎
What did you time the injector pump too?
Love the details you add when doing each step, just one question though, when you were doing the valve clearances, you measured at the cam push roller and not at the valve head, that will give you an incorrect setting won't it due to the different distance from cam rocker points to cam push roller and the valve contact point.
Cheers for that. And yeah I had to double check that when I saw the manual too. Ben does them at the rollers at work under the instruction of the mechanics there (I haven’t done FTE valves at work myself yet) and he reckons that’s the way to go. She all runs perfectly so I guess we didn’t mess it up too bad! Not sure if it’s different for FTE vs. FT either
@@WillsLandcruiser I guess if you set it at the roller to the minimum allowed setting then add the extra leverage from the pivot to the valve point, it probably works out to be very close to the max allowed clearance so still within the range. If that's the case then it's definitely easier access for clearance checking as getting into the valve point is a bit squeezey. When I did mine I was balancing on the bull bar, over the radiator, guts get a bit sore towards the last few adjustments.
@@dcf476 yeah quite possibly! They’d have to be pretty similar clearances if you think about. Much easier access doing it at the rollers too. I’m not 100% sure if it’s the “right way” to do it but it works!
Definately do it between the adjuster and the valve bridge.. theres a ratio. And if ya do it at the roller they can be loose. Seen it on other engines
Hey mate great work! Just went through the same process with an FT motor. Did you have any issues with nozzle seals (push in cups) leaking when running? Did you install them with any sealant?
I haven’t noticed any leaks so far! We replaced them with fresh ones obviously and they were a tight fit. Didn’t think to use any sealant but they seem to be fine so far!
Hey when you time it, isn’t it meant to be BDC?
Hey did you use RTV, on the waterpump gaskets?
Also how did you torque the balancer to 420nm?
Yes I did use red silicone/RTV/gasket maker on the water pump- either side of the gasket. And I torqued the balancer with an 800nm torque driver on the medium setting
Hi Will, I am having an issue with my 1HD-FTE in my 79 series. Has started to produce a constant exhaust smoke, hard to tell but is light in colour maybe with a tinge of black? Has done 290000km light use and well maintained. In the last year or so have had done by a reputable 4x4 diesel workshop : timing belt system, valves adjusted, intake system removed & cleaned and provent 200 catch can fitted; smoke has Started and gotten worse somewhere in this time frame. Also wanted to mention that injectors have never been cleaned or replaced. Any thoughts on where I should start or components to suspect? Apologies for the long message.
Cheers mate.
Always a bit hard to diagnose over message like this. But try and distinguish a colour to the smoke if you can. Blue = oil, Black = rich fuel mix, White = coolant, but white can also be unburnt fuel. Start with some basic tests like a cooling system pressure test and a compression test. From these you might be able to work out what’s being burnt that shouldn’t be! And hopefully you can come up with a diagnosis and repair based on this. Hope this helps Dean! 👍
Hi Buddy, first of all you should check or replaced the oil o-ring on the top of the valves. It can work only around 100 000-1500 000 km. Second that you should check nozzle sprayer replace them as well. Check the oil pressure on the Hot engine. The last point it is Rings on the pistons, first to check the pressure in the cylinders it should be around 30 Bar by each. If the pressure in cylinders is less, the engine should be full rebuild, and install all new spare parts parts.
Hi Will!😎
So you can adjust timing advance on 1hd-fte? Did you do it on this build?
I’m not sure about adjusting timing mechanically. Being an electronically assisted injector pump I was under the impression the timing was in the hands of the ECU. With +70 injectors, a G turbo and a unichip, I reckon that’ll be enough!
@@WillsLandcruiser thank you!😊 There was one pic that you showed how to adjust timing advance ,mechanically. Unichip has definetely the option to adjust timing . We don't have those Unichips here in Finland 😭😭
@@tuomashaanpaa8209 Yeahh okay there you go. Nah we didn’t mess with the timing! Just that unichip map but that is a shame you don’t have them in Finland!
@@WillsLandcruiser the fte is an awesome motor I’ve got a 4.5 stroker 1hdfte that I’m putting into my patrol very soon
@@brodybaker960 4.5 nice! That’ll be a beast 😍
Is this the same motor that recently threw a leg outta bed?
The mig works magic 😉😂 nah different block
Valves clearances lol
I hate when you tubers make you wait another week to turn the key ☹️