Removing a difficult rear rotor from a GM Truck / SUV
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- Removing a difficult or stuck rear rotor from a GM Truck / SUV including Tahoe / Yukon / Suburban / Silverado / Sierra.
I am working on a 2005 Tahoe but this will also help many others that have a drum type emergency brake incorporated into the rear rotor which many vehicles do. The rust and corrosion on the inside is getting hung up on the emergency brake shoe and making it difficult to remove.
Intro and outro Music:
Valerie by Jason Mercier
/ jasonmercier
Filmed with iPhone 6. Edited with GoPro Splice.
2004 Chevy express 3500 rear rotors. Im glad I came across your video, I was about to give up on changing the rotors but after watching your video it gave me the confidence that I can do it. You saved me quite a bit of money not taking it to the shop. Thank you.
let me save anybody who's about to watch the seven minutes of frustration he just wants you to pull on one side of the rotor and bang on the other with a hammer they're done
...and explain to them why it’s getting stuck. Thanks for the input. 😜
i dont even remember making that post to be honest, sorry about that. choosing to do the rear brakes in january and running into this was a bundle of fun. beating the brains out of it did the trick, seems like the main problem is they used a 1 piece shoe. never had this problem on cars that use two shoes
Fuck sakes so annoying
Nothings worse than being frustrated at a job then watching a how to video only for it to be 10minutes of what when why where trying to find the how, makes me even more frustrated
Omg ty so much. Was feckin killin me. Even trying to understand he needs a long vid for youtube $
Add 2012 chevy traverse to your list. 97k, first rear brake job and man, the rotors were stuck. After trying all the tricks, i used my 4 ton hydraulic ram wedged between the rear frame and rotor. Driver side took a bit but broke loose. The passenger side, wow. It was amazing how much pressure it took to break it loose.
Hey Boston Joe - thanks! I had tried everything, getting the rear rotor off my Yukon. I pounded this way, I pounded that way, my neighbors were starting to glare at me. I used your technique and it came right off. The side-pounding/side pulling method works great where you have rust and the deep rotor going over the parking brake.
Awesome, EXACTLY what it was, 200K motor, parking brake pads were totally wrecked and grinding inside, 20min fix once I got the darned rotor off. THANK YOU.
Your explanation of this made it so much easier to understand! Although I didn’t have a rubber mallet, I was able to patiently whack around the edges towards the outside of the truck and get it free. I was whacking at it for 20 minutes in all the wrong ways before watching your video! Thank you
Working on a nissan and none of the videos for that vehicle helped, after watching this I used a hammer and turned the rotor to bang most of the rust out (alot fell out so I knew it was working) the rotor eventually tilted free and came right off. Thank you Boston Joe!
Glad you found it helpful!!
Ran into this same problem today, then watched your Video, 10 minutes later it was off, Thanks for the help. Ron
Thanks so much for this video on how to remove rusted on rotor. I was getting frustrated trying to get it off! I also before had sprayed some KW penetrant on the inside of the rotor, it probably helped too, but after a couple hits with the ball hammer, came right off! I'm a widow and not very strong, like you guys, so when I did what you suggested and the rotor came off, it was a great feeling, thanks again!!!
So glad it helped. Persistence will get you through anything!!!
Thank you for the refresher course.
I had a pretty good idea how to do that but I wanted to see it one more time before I tackle it.
Thanks. Almost 2 years from the date you posted and it helped me today!!
Glad it helped!!
I've learned from my F250 to just drive slowly while cycling the parking brake off/on...let it drag a bit.. that breaks up the rust on the pad and rotor surface inside... rear rotors come off... not much whacking with a hammer required... now once with my Dodge Dakota, drivers side front rotor was stuck...tried the nut and bolt trick....no go... eventually bought a 12 ton hydraulic jack that can be used sideways...set it up between the rotor and truck frame.. jammed a 4*4 on the other side to keep the jack from turning the steering knuckle while pushing on the rotor....a few good pumps on the jack and the rotor met an unstoppable force... keep the wheel nuts on the rotor loosely so it catches the flying brake rotor :)
Love the tips!!!
@@BostonJoe620 No prob !!
First time I've ever commented on a video and i want to say THANK YOU for explaining the everything behind and under the rotor. I was sledge hammering for nearly an hour and after a few hours away i came across your video. My ebrake on on lol. Either way the ebrake has been giving me issues for a good long while now so im glad i know the issue. Killed birds i guess. Now i can replace the disc and shoe brakes. Thanks for the video!
🍻👍
Thanks for the video. So in my case once you said emergency break I realized that I had to release it. I was hamering it like crazy, and after releasing the ebreak it came off like butter 🧈
2013 Chevy equinox I slammed the crap out the rotor and did not come out I had the e break on omg going back and do it right thank sir even 2 years later great advice!!!!
Good luck Karloz!!
Thank you Thank you Thank you brother!. Replacing the rear pads on an 01 Tahoe I had the stuck rotor issue. I live in Ohio also where the salt builds up rust. I tried everything including PB Blaster bath, chipping rust away from the axle hole, pounding here, pounding there...nothing. Then i hit were you said to with the dead blow hammer about 15 good whacks and she was off. You could tell the change of tone in the hammer hit when the rust let go and the rotor came loose. Thanks Boston Joe and thanks CZcams.
Love it!!!
Thank u so much. Way easier than me close to breaking the rotor off😅😅😂😂😂😂
I spend 2 hours with a hammer yesterday. I was not able to remove it.
I went to harbor freight got a 12 tone hydraulic puller o boy the rotor pop off my dodge 3500 single rear wheel.
I could not believe It best 100 bucks I ever spend
I’m gonna take a look at the puller. Sounds like something great to have in the garage.
Bang on bud. Thought I had to remove the cable but onn Ontario, same thing. Salt, corrosion and flat out rust was hangin me up. Strait to you tube(cause they got it all), hit your vid and pretty much the same thing I did.
I dont have a heavy hammer so I used the removal holes on the rotor itself with 2x 7/16(I think) bolts, 9/16 socket and worked it slow.
Good vid, nice car.🤘
Since I live in NYS and NYS does not require a working E brake on Automatic Transmissions I have removed my E brake shoes. I carry a pair of Chocks in the truck. I have a GMC Jimmy.
Thank you for this video John! I was doing plenty of whacking but not enough pulling
It’s Joe, but glad it helped!
Looks better than my 2018 they have to stop with calcium chloride its killing everything
Agreed. I have 69 Camaro that I’d love to take out but once they start throwing it on the roads, she has to go into hibernation!
Thank you for this video 🙏🙏🙏
Brother those rear rotors on my Jeep wrangler were hell to get off. Four years of New York Winters did their work. First the rotor bolts were frozen and needed to be drilled out. Then the rotor took some pounding from a four pound hammer to finally come off. I replaced them anyway so I didn’t care what I did to the rotors. They were completely rusty.
Thanks for the help
Thank god for you my man!!! I almost set my wife’s Saturn vue on fire
I had to take off my entire steering knuckle to get at my fronts. Rotor rusted to bearing assembly which was rusted to the staring knuckle. Lots of hammering and some use to an angle grinder and lots of swearing it all came loose. Without removing entire assembly I never would have been able to complete the job.
People, leave this man alone! If you want to get to the bottom of the problem, just fast forward. Most fellas on here know how vcr and cassette tapes work lol
7:33 to find out....just bang on it! WOW awesome job there Boston!
If you didn’t want the ‘why’ just click on a video with a short time span. Your welcome.
Lol holy shit worked like a charm i was hitting it with a mallet prio to getting it off but with the hand on 1 side and hitting it came off with ease, thank you for posting this
Glad it worked!!
Has an emergency brake because all cars have to have one. Whether you ever use it is your prerogative. Yeah, they get a lip on the edge and if you can’t back them off enough it can be hell getting it over the shoes. He says these have some kind of one - piece ‘ band ‘ which probably makes it even worse.
I found turning it by the lugs a bit at a time while doing all this beating ( or in between the beating ) from behind helps work it off.
Then there is a nice press fit on the center to hub plus rust which could be holding it on. For that a torch is best - heat and expand
Awesome additional info!!
Worked, thanks bro
Tried the pulling and the hammering to no avail. Still stuck on the lip of the parking brake. In desperation, I turned on the engine and shifted the truck from Drive to Reverse until it popped off on its own! And it did not ruin the parking brake like the puller would have done. Figured the spinning finally ground down the rust and lip of the drum. Yes, I did have it safely on jackstands!
Love this! May help a lot of folks out!!!
@@BostonJoe620 Yeeee!😬
Your rotor looks good
I always do rotors at the same time as the pads.
It was likely not the drum parking brake shoe stuck to the rotor inner surface. The thing that happens is the center pilot hole is precision fit and it ends up rusty over time and is like it is welded to the hub. It is rarely the flat part of the hub surface but that center pilot. Some cars have a threaded hole you can thread a bolt into to push the rotor off. If it is stuck and no release hole I use a large hammer to bang hard between the lug nuts and it will shock the rust loose and the rotor pops off. Just be real careful to not hit the lug studs or you may end with more problems.
Fred, Great input!! Thank you for taking the time to post so that folks searching will be able to check that out on their particular setup.
Gunna try and make it a quick job rear end in and out 22 minutes without set up and I hv two replace my line soo I'm READY for a challenges NOT a struggle thanks for the advice and tips. ILL TRY NOT TO CRUSH MYSELF TO DEATH.
Experienced the same problem with my 2008 GMC Sierra Denali. Left rear slid off, no problem. Right side had to be hammered off. Overall though, the brake job was fairly easy. Had to replace the left rear brake caliper because it wouldn’t fully retract, and that was easy.
Joe thanks so much another trick that worked for me!
Need to address possible solutions of E-brake seized up against the rear rotor, not allowing rotor to be removed.
Awesome video man very helpful. Thank you!!
Removing the emergency brake worked 👍🏾
Awesome. Glad to hear it!
Awesome job
Thank you Bob!
@@BostonJoe620 m m hi lbvubv
Thank you
Couple thoughts. In hind sight, do you think it would have been better to engage the parking brake a couple times while moving slowly to break up rust and debris holding it to the rotor? Another thought was, after I finally got it off, I turned the adjuster back before I installed the new rotor. Again in hind sight, if I would have thought of it, I could have removed the rubber cover on the back/bottom of the hub and used a screwdriver to adjust the parking brake down before trying to fight the rotor off. Just some thoughts. Comments?
Those were my initial thoughts too. Before dismantling the rear rotors, drive the vehicle slowly, for a short distance while engaging the emergency brakes, park it, engage the e-brakes then maybe with a hard release of the e-brake would help break rust and debris loose. I've not replaced my brakes yet but I'm going to remember to do this. Thanks for the video
Some say spray water at the disk then hammer around the face the water help getting at the rust better than wd40 Or air hammer the front face or long bolt at the back to push the disk off
I have the exact mess and I'm up on 4 stands. Wasn't sure what was up or if the e brake was on some how. Thanks
Short version… pull with the left hand while taping with a hammer on the right. Thanks
Lmao. Freaking e-brake. Thanks Boston joe! From a Georgia Joe. I struggled with that rotor for hours. Released the e-brake and it practically fell off. Thanks again. I'm not a mechanic. Just poor. Lol
One other thing is using an air hammer with a mushroom tip and running it along the drum section of the rotor hat
Great tip!!
Thank u very much sir god dang emergency break was on god dang it 😭😂
Bro. Great video. Just get to it!!!!! Just tell me how you figured out a good way to get it off!!!!!
Bang away. Lol. My video is really for someone that also wants to know why the rotor is getting hind up.
My truck is a 15 sierra 1500 with 56k on it. First time the rears were addressed. I live in central NY so we get hammered with the salt. What happens if the e brake shoes get messed up when the rotor comes off? The shoes were stuck so bad that it pulled them out some along with the rotor. A couple springs came out and a couple smaller brass retaining clips like the ones on the lug nut studs. Thank you. Great video.
Invest in coated roters less rust when you have to remove it in 4 years 👍
Agreed. But that only works for the second time around. Many folks have purchased used and have to deal with the junk steel parts that a previous owner has used.
What If you paint them ?
Thanks for the great video! I just redid the rear brakes and rotors this weekend. If the top of the hat on one of my rear rotors is really hot compared to the other, could that be a sign the parking brake shoes are binding on that side? The car is not pulling to one side or the other and the pedal feels solid, just noticed the rotor was really hot and noticed a burning smell.
Could be the emergency brake shoe hanging up but also could be your disk brake caliper. When brake fluid gets old it breaks down and the boiling point changes. This can cause some or all the calipers to stick and western your rotor prematurely.
Boston Joe 620 Thanks for the tip. I adjusted the star adjuster all the way out and can move the hub freely. I was also able to push the piston all the way in, but the aftermarket pads do not move at all within the caliper bracket. I was going to file down the ears, so they slide more easily to see if that does the trick.
02 s10 here. Just did the job but also did the backing plates. Gov lock diff. c clips etc... the job is complete but my e brake cables on each side are way too short now. 180k on truck. Even with the cable disconnected at the pedal I cant get them connected to their levers. The adjuster under the ds door looks like it only adjusts the ps brake. Even if I connect the ps cable, which is crazy difficult, it's futile because its the same as the pedal pressed. Any idears?
Not sure my friend. Someone on the net has to have had a similar situation. Keep searching!!
@@BostonJoe620 I'll keep fiddling with it. Keep the vids coming :)
Sooo I sat there pounding and pounding it got loose but I still couldn’t take it off… I released the e brake and it slid right off😅
These things will make you bring back things you never stole! There the worst even when the park brake is retracted all the way.
Off topic question, how do you like that flooring I was thinking on getting it for my garage
RaceDeck, loved it. I’ve since sold the house and the garage sealed the deal.
Metal beads in dead blow hammer is lead shot like shotgun pellets.
There were actually recalls on these by gm, such a crappy design mine have been a headache for years
I would rather have the drums on the rear
Once I released the parking brake it was all smooth sailing from there.
#ImDumb
Less talk and more action. This guy never just shuts the hell up
Your welcome
Annoying mtha fker right lol like stfup there's real mechanics on CZcams that presents video 10x better than this telemarketer guy.
nice video, well done, I was wondering if the chevy 1500 van is the same, as far as rotor changing goes.
I’m not sure my friend. Check the rotor. If it’s got and inner surface on the back for a drum type e-brake I’m sure it will.
Hey Joe, what's the flooring you have down in your garage in this video?
racedeck.com
Very cool and easy to put down.
I'd imagine this guy tells stories like my wife, like Jesus get to the point already.
Your welcome
I broke the back side of the rotor trying to get it off and it is still on there. Try it again tomorrow, had to walk away.
If you are not going to save the rotor anyway why bother with a rubber mallet? On my 2007 Durango it has pretty much the same setup. I beat on it with a steel mallet. Came off pretty quick once you break the rust bond.
I actually used a dead blow hammer. I shouldn’t even have mentioned rubber mallet in the video. The dead blow actually has weighted beads in the hammer that allow more striking force per blow.
I need help, I did what you show in the video, but still impossible! What can I do?
Try what Kook said if the rotor is completely frozen.
Jesus F Christ! How did that take 8 God damn minutes?! I watched it at 2x and I still think it could have been 2 mins long.
You wanted a video that had no explanation. Simple tip only click on videos with times under 2 minutes. Problem solved.
I can't get mine off AT ALL. I've loosened the e brake all the way and the one side of the car came off after that but the other side is completely suck. It's loosened all the way and is still stuck on the pads I can feel the springs wanting to pull the rotor back onto the hub. I'm at the point where I'm getting no help bc everyone else it seems there pads weren't completely stuck to the inside of the rotor. The harder I pull the rotor the more it brakes the internals of the e brake, I'm at the point now where I'm going to have to replace the e brake but I still can't get it off! It's so frustrating bc I'm missing work and every day just gets zero results. Any advice of how I can just force it off would be great I no longer care about the e brake and just want this over with.
Mark, I didn’t see this right away so I hope that you somehow got this one off and the frustration is gone!! It’s most likely the metal rot and rust holding onto the brake shoes. I would usually use a dead blow hammer to loosen and get as much of the rust to break away.
Joe, Yea it was one of the brake pads that was completely rusted stuck to the inside of the rotor. I tried soaking anything and everything I could access with pen fluid and it still wouldn't come off. I finally got sick of it and just man handled it off. It broke apart all the springs and thank God didn't brake the piston but yea it sucked big time. I just said screw it and removed the e brake on the driver side and the passenger side was fine and came right off. It's just who ever owned the car b4 I bought it didn't take care of it at all and now I'm dealing with the issues.
*Spoiler Alert* for those that looks at comment before watching video don't waste your time just move on to the next video that actually gets to the point
Your welcome. Yes, it seems you didn’t want the explanation of why it was happening. Simple tip for you, just click on videos with under two minutes. You’ll have the cheat code but will never know why things happen.
Man you saved me
Awesome. Cheers!!
What point of the video does he actually get to the fng point?
It’s the explanation of why it’s happening. Your welcome. Good luck on your next project.
Knock a stud inside the rotor and you can get at the adjuster
Mine had so much rust that even when I adjusted the star wheel completely down I was still hung up. But great add! Because I don’t think that I mentioned it at all.
@@BostonJoe620 this is how I always beat flat rate time on old ford Taurus
But how do you get a new rotor back on, after ebrake expands! Ahhhhh
E-brake will only be expanded while it's applied, which it won't be when you're replacing your rear brakes.
Pro tip make sure your emergency brake is off you may be fighting for no reason. Ask me how I know….
Great point papabear8160!!
8 minutes to get to "hit it from the back with a hammer".
Your welcome
8 minutes of fluff, but no Punch Line
Wiked smaat....
Man... all that time, all I had to do was release the parking brakes
Or just back the emergency brake off
If there is no rust build up, you would be correct.
Good lord that didn’t show me anything why does everyone on CZcams want to talk and talk and talk just show me gd
Why do I have so many comments that say that it helped them, then? If your issue is the the emergency brake then the explanation helps. Perhaps you have a different issue.
Skip all the bs and go to 6:55 to see the solution.
Better off just click on someone’s video that is 1 minute long if you don’t want to know the ‘why’. You will learn a lot in life that way. 😉
This was a 3 1/2 minute video that he made into an 8 1/2 minute video. a complete waste of 5 unnecessary minutes.
Your welcome. Judging by the rest of the comments, you are in the minority. Sometimes you may just have a different issue.
Boston Joe 620 at least his math checks out. Gotta give him credit for that. 🤣
Thanks dude but too much beating around the bush...
My wife says the same. Lol
@@BostonJoe620 lmfao 🤣 that's what she said... stay safe buddy
2015 Dear Lord my 2015 silverado 2500Hd is ever triple pain in the ass. It almost killed me.🤒
I hear ya!!!
holy crap! he took soooo long to get to the point i had mine hammered off 4 mins before he shared The Obvious!!! waste of time!!
Some folks like to know why it’s happening. Good luck on your next repair.
Thats not it. Its the rotor seized to the axle with the bolts. So you have to put heat to it and pound off. Simple. All that wasted time
If the disc moves at all then this statement is wrong. If someone reading this has a rotor that is simply frozen with no movement at all once the wheel is removed than this may apply.
9 minutes to tell me to beat the s*** out of it, really? And yours wasnt even stuck.
If you didn’t want the explanation then don’t listen. Your welcome.
GM have the worst brakes of any vehicle, no more GM's for me.
Sadly GM is cheaping out on a lot of items recently!!
wtf took u forever to get to d point
Your welcome.
Nice video but way too long! Took 7min just to say hit it with a hammer. Spit it out yo!
Needed the ad revenue for my next project. 😂
That was painful to watch. Lots of talking instead of getting to the point.
Your welcome.
Useless information
It’s helped some to at least know why and how the e-brake is integrated into the rotor. Thanks for the feedback.
The title of the video is "removing a difficult rotor from a GM truck" let me know when you change difficult rotor because that didn't happen in this video.
The word ‘remove’ is different than ‘change’. Change would imply that this was a full replacement video. My description lets people know that I discuss how to remove a ‘Rear’ rotor that is hung up on the e-brake shoe that is part of the rear setup on a this and similar GM vehicles.
dude you yacked for 7 minutes. you should get to it within 1 minute and it would have been a 3 minute video. Sorry man, just real feedback for you. It's a video, not a radio show.
I could summarize pretty much anything into something smaller. If you don’t want explanation just limit your search to short videos. Thanks for watching.
Talked way to much sorry
Don’t be sorry. Your welcome. You just wanted the solution and not the explanation.
Get to the damn point
I hate that it took you 5 whole minutes to tell me that you hit it with a mallet.