How To Replace A Catalytic Converter - Chrysler Town & Country 3.8L
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- We diagnosed this 2005 Chrysler Town & Country 3.8L with a bad catalytic converter. It came in with a P0420. This video gives you a step by step process on replacing the converter. Also watch: • How To Diagnose A Chec... for the diagnostics.
The automobile consist of:
Powertrrain
1. Engine:
• Fuel System: Purpose is to deliver fuel to the engine. It consists of the fuel tank, pump, gauge/sensor, filter, pressure regulator and injectors.
• Air Intake System: Purpose is to clean and direct outside air into the engine. It consist of air filter, ducts, air plenum and intake manifold.
• Exhaust System: Purpose is to direct exhaust gasses out of combustion out of engine. It consists of the exhaust manifold, converters, pipes and mufflers.
• Cooling System: Purpose is to remove excess heat from the engine. It consists of water pump, hoses, radiator, thermostat, cooling fan and coolant recovery tank. Also the oil system serves as a cooling system as well as a lubricating system. It consist of oil pump, pan, filter and cooler.
Drivetrain:
1. Clutch: Purpose is to connect the engine and transmission together. It consists of clutch drive disc, driven disc, release bearing, clutch fork, cable, slave cylinder, master cylinder. There are three types of clutch systems: mechanical, cable and hydraulic.
2. Transmission: Purpose is to match engine speed to road speed. Two types used are manual or automatic. These consist of gears, linkages, cables and converters for automatics. A manual is connected to the clutch by a flywheel and automatic by a flexplate.
3. Driveshaft: Purpose is to connect the transmission to the rear axle. It consists of a slip yoke, shaft and universal joints.
4. Rear axle differential: Purpose is to change the angle of motion from engine to the wheels. It also divides torque between the wheels. It consists of a ring and pinion gear, carrier, bearings, crush sleeve and axle shafts.
5. Wheels/Tires: Purpose is to provide traction to the road as well as carry the weight of the vehicle.
Vehicle Control Systems:
1. Brakes: Purpose is to slow and stop the vehicle. It consists of master cylinder, brake booster (vacuum or hydraulic), calipers, drums, pads and rotors.
2. Steering: Purpose is to direct vehicle in the required direction. Consists of steering gear (rack & pinion), steering wheel, column, inner/outer tie rods, pump, reservoir, hoses and pipes.
3. Suspension: Purpose is to provide stability and handling while also providing comfort to the ride. Consists of shocks, struts, sway bars, end links, springs, trailing arms and bushings.
Comfort System:
1: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning (HVAC): Heats and cools interior air to passenger comfort. Also circulates outside and inside air.
• Air Conditioning: Consist of condenser, compressor, accumulator (receiver/dryer) orifice, expansion valve, hoses, evaporator, controls, actuators and modules.
• Heating: Consists of heater core, valves, hoses and switches.
Electrical Systems:
1. Power Generation: Creates electrical power to run all the electrical systems. Consists of the alternator.
2. Power storage: Stores unused power to start the car and supply voltage to the alternator to create more electricity.
• Both systems consist of wiring, harnesses, fuse, relays and modules
"Now we are gonna see if we can't beat it off.................. THE PIPE!" lol like how he threw that in there at the end.
Did a job like this on a 1998 Chrysler Grand Voyager minivan. When replacing the exhaust system bolts. A friend I know who is a mechanic used anti-seize on bolts. The anti-seize allows easy removal in the event of future repairs.
my left ear is really enjoying this
Lmfao I’m dead!!! I was thing I got the same shit!!!!
HA!!!
I was just looking for info on this on google. Found this video. Shocked at how big the part is. I didn't know it was part of the muffler system.
This is crazy tight for the driveway. I need a little more room to work with. I'll have to remove windshield wiper and drain tray, for better access to remove and reinstall the two top (very hard to get to) welded together bolts. With the van jacked up on 4 cinder blocks, (with support jacks), I'm going to loosen the front centered motor mount, and the passenger side mount, and lower the engine enough to get easily to all the bolts. Gonna take my time and try this today, on my 2007 Town&Country, 240,000 miles. It'll be well worth the savings ($1200.00) if the van don't fall. Thank for the video. 7/20/17
Nice, I just cut my pipe behind my cat, hollowed out the cat and spliced my pipe back together, it would barely climb a hill at 50 mph before but now has more horsepower than it's ever had.
Wanna save yourself some troubles? Since you are probably gonna do the downstream, and upstream Oxygen sensors during this repair. The upstream will require o2 socket to get out.
The 4 bolts on the converter on my van were practically impossible to get off because they were nearly welded from the heat cold HEAT COLD. I snapped two of them during removal. There are 4 nuts with a lock tab, on the engine side of the mount that are 15mm, and will spin around if your bolts are rusted or fucked up, if they spin the tab will fold over the nut causing much more problems. If you can get a wrench on them to keep that from happening. I highly recommend it. I did break the bolts (M-8 1.25/45mm) and got replacements at oreileys.
Now upon install of new pipes, I recommend a pipe expander to get that pipe all the way in to avoid those exhaust leaks. And to get around extreme man handling of those connection points.
I soaked all bolts with PB Blaster before wrenching. Everyone says the top right bolt is barely accessible. But with two 6"extensions(swivel kind) and two 3" extensions I got that bolt easiest out of the 4.
The rear pipe clamp needed a torch to heat up and break loose as I snapped my first 15mm on it.....
5 bolts did take me two days. Be prepared for fun.
Exactly why I cut it after the cat, hollowed it out, and put a clamp on it and called it a day
@@johnnyversaci7091 Oh yea? Did you use/buy a short exhaust connector with 2 clamps or? And what did you use to break up honeycomb inside the cat? About to do this on a 05 T&C
@@tinytim9453 I used some screwdrivers of different sizes to break up the cat, after cutting the pipe with a sawzall. After that I did what you said which barely ever works, the small pipe with exhaust clamps.. but then I realized u can buy a clamp that has a piece of sheet metal you wrap around the pipe and tighten the bolts, from advance auto I will get the part number for u
This is exactly what I was looking for. They didn't even address how the bolts were put on. I was just under my van, which is rusty, and started shaking my head. I can reach three nuts uncomfortably and I hope that top right bolt treats me right, because I can't figure out how to reach the back. LOL. It's covered in PB Blaster right now. Wish me luck.
Thanks for this. I came here just to find out the bolt sizes.
When I was checking for exhaust leaks, I grabbed the hot exhaust pipe with my bare hand. Don't ever do that.
Ouch lol
Gloves
Really great job on this video guys, thanks so much!
Question. Why wouldn't you add a clamp where the new pipe meets the old, just in front of the muffler?
Excellent. Thanks
Great video! Thank you
i figured out the top right bolt. first be sure you soak all the bolts with some sort of penn.oil several times the will come off easy. the top bolt takes a 13mm socket w/a ratchet not a breaker bar. no room for the bar. i added a deep 14mm socket and 5 in ext on the rachet go under between the plate and tie rod the rachet will only click afew times but its enough to turn the bolt. the other bolts take along ext. and breaker bar they will come out. be sure you use new bolts and flag nuts get them at chrysler this will make life easier.
My 2013 Grand caravan showed the code for a faulty catalytic converter. I took it to the warranty and they "replaced" it. After they gave us the GC back,I noticed it sounded a bit louder. I got home and used it the next day with the same results. Then today,the same. I lay down in the front to see the catalytic and guess what??? It wasn't a new catalytic converter and it have only one screw (bolt) and no gasket😠🤬😭. I'll have to go back to the dealer and start ww3 there.
Will a p0430 be the same,how do you know its not the sensors?
"...beat it off. The pipe." 😆 🤣 😂
Hi I need help try to find the same on the used to fix my car P0420
How do you know that the O2 sensors weren't defective
So you didn't weld it?
Wish this would've helped me. Had my van at Firestone today. They said there was a rear and front catalytic converter on my town and country. They also said the after market had the O2 sensor in a different place where it hits the frame, nonflush. I dunno.
Jumped right past the top right bolt
Hi does anyone know we’re to get the on the use to replace
Glad to see it!
lets try again showing just how hard it is to access those bolts
Is this car and a dodge caravan the same car? Or similar enough to use this video to change it?
PARTS FROM WHERE? AND PRICE$$??
Will your car still work, "run" if someone cut off your catalytic converter without the sencer in a 2007 Sebring
Great job thanks guys, one more think
Can you give us made and part numbers for both if you can.
Great job of not showing how to loosen or tighten the top right bolt… 😡
Yeah. Dont show us anything but the handle.
I have a 2002 caravan 3.3 that I'm talking the Cadillac converter off what size bolts are they? Thank you
I'm always looking for a NY version of something like this...🤔..how did You get these frickin whatever kinda frickin bolt or nut n bolt or what the frig it is..outta there...then I can go from there....thanks for the video you guys, it helped to get a look at it..👍
-- Did you get those nuts and bolts off?
Hot wrench here in the salt belt
It's never that easy
So ive tried to get mine off. A 13 just spins on it like its too big a socket. So then i tried a 12mm would not fit. Then tried a 1/2 and still spins. How do i remove the bolts to the manifold now. ?
Torches
What happened to the sound?
how in the world did you get the top right bolt off. i have been trying but my socket and long extenions do not want to line up with the bolt. HELP!
Bought a couple half moon wrenches 13mm and 15mm. Ended up using the 13mm. Advise buying Snap Ons since they have a thinner box end which will fit over the bolt head without hitting the circumference. I bid each wrench at $25 and won them. If I bought them new they would have cost over $100. Btw, it is unnecessary to remove the rubber support forward of the muffler. Get some penetrating oil and spray after loosening the band that secures the pipe section. Then grab a big hammer and slug the forward support till you break the pipes loose then wiggle the pipes while pushing them apart. After the flange bolts are removed there is enough room to move the Cat forward enough to separate the two pipes. This is especially helpful if you are only on jack stands. Being patient is key, I'm retired so I just picked at it and ended up buying a cutting wheel to remove the bolt at the 10 o'clock position because I was a dummy and rounded it because the bolts were hard to break. No big deal I bought some great tools and still saved $800.
Was that a broken bolt at 2:23?
I'm having trouble removing the top right bolt on the cat that goes to the exhaust manifold. I'm working from the ground, swapping the engine out of a 02 with a 3.3
Brian Jenkins any luck. had the same problem 13 mm socket and rachet on the end of rachet used 14mm deep socket and a 4 in extension for leverage. very little room to turn bolt but it will also soak bolts as long as you can with penn oil this will help. i tried many things this was the only andwer other than cutting it up in pieces w a hacksaw.
hit send you need to go under the van inbetween the tie bar and plate very little room to do this but you can get up in that small space to get to thar darn bolt. a breaker bar is too long it hits the plate or tie bar to turn the bolt remember to really soak those bolts with penn oil i mean really soak them.
Recommend penetrating oil and an obstruction wrench 13mm. Reason being the sidewall on the snap on has a thinner wall and allows you to get on the bolt head. After over wrenching I rounded the bolt head on the 10 o'clock bolt but overcame it by buying a cheap pneumatic 3" cutter. This approach might be useful for the majority if they are extra stubborn and merely replace the bolts and nuts.
@Brian Jenkins -- I removed the windshield wiper cowl and was able to get that top right bolt out going at it from the top of the van instead of trying to take it out from underneath the van. -- A 1/2 inch regular wrench fit the bolt good on my 2007 short wheelbase Caravan, and after some penetrating oil, it came right out.
the bolts that come off, do they have a nut you have to loosen like on a tie rod or do the just come straight off?
They have a locking type spacer that keeps the nut from turning. Recommend allowing some Penetrating Oil to soak in for a few minutes first. The 2pm bolt head might require either a flare type crows foot 13mm or good Snap On 13mm obstruction/Halfmoon wrench due to it being super difficult to reach. Reason for Snap On is the boxend is much thinner so it goes over the bolt head. If you get a smaller open end wrench it will allow you to double wrench for more leverage. If the bolts prove difficult I ended up using a 3" pneumatic cutter which fits up there but that 2pm bolt I fortunately was able to easily wrench off with the obstruction wrench which was good for me due to it's inaccessibility.
What size was the clamp that you guys add in ?
Doing this without a lift is a pain in the butt. They also fail to address the nuts on the back of those four bolts! Fought those rusty bastages for hours. Also that rusty beast of a clamp in the back can sometimes be spot-welded, which is another pain. For something so simple (six bolts) it has many unexplained caveats!!
I agree that they missed a lot of steps-the bolts are crazy tight and hard to get to.
+Sam Degonia That's why man invented a cutting torch !!
It is weird how folks tend to oversimplify work needed to avoid an issue. Some stuff you have to figure out but if one knew then perhaps tools needed might help but I guess that's why we're here! Lol!
i have an '05 and i need a new converter cause mine has gotten noisy as heck. im debating over whether i should get a Mopar one or aftermarket
Cobra Ninety Six hello guys what cat did you finally get ( aftermarket or OEM ? Price for both $
I went to Hottexhaust and applied my VA discount for a $126 discount. $449 shipped.
I have the same van 2005... I mounted a strap on the pipe 3 feet after cat and fixed to frame it quit rattling and is quiet now. I hope this works for awhile.... worth a shot
how much you think that one you took off will go for at a scrap yeard ?
Around here.. northern Ohio, I'd get about $120 for the cat off a Chrysler. That's if the honey comb inside is still whole.
where did you get your new bolts and nuts , what size were they . thank you very much
scooter12368 just go to the chrysler websight or dealer they can set you up with bolts and flag nuts. they just need year and engine size.
how many hours does it take to fix it ???
Carolyn Logan 15minhr
lol- good one - as long as it takes when - DYI.
Is this the same for a 4 cylinder Chrysler voyager 2003?
Mr Frannk Thanks for watching but due to Michael's passing we can not answer any questions.
Oh I'm sorry for your loss.
Aim a light toward the bottom of the car, and it won't show up as black on the video.
Where'd you get the aftermarket cat?
I got one on ebay for 63$
leaving people with false expectations , not cool
I couldn't get the top number 4 bolt out, what would you guys suggest??? I also have a 2005 town and country
-- Hi. -- Did you ever get that bolt out? -- If so, how did you do it?
@@VAIO294 I couldn't get it out, I tried something different that worked for me
@@cesarflores9805 -- OK.. Glad you found something that worked for you. --- I removed the windshield wiper cowl and was able to get that #4 bolt out going at it from the top of the van instead of trying to take it out from underneath the van. -- A 1/2 inch regular wrench fit the bolt good on my 2007 short wheelbase Caravan, and after some penetrating oil, it came right out.
Take care.
.
Torch.
Lol ratchet instead of a impact
I like how u didn't show how much of a pain in the ass the top right bolt was. Try taking the converter off laying on the ground it fucking sucked
--- I removed the windshield wiper cowl and was able to get that top right bolt out going at it from the top of the van instead of trying to take it out from underneath the van. -- A 1/2 inch regular wrench fit the bolt good on my 2007 short wheelbase Caravan, and after some penetrating oil, it came right out.
Terrible.. left audio only, can't see anything, no narration.
Well that's because you're supposed to listen to it, not look out for it bro. Hope that helps!
dude video sucks cant see it