I Make a Medieval Linen Chemise | Ever After Italian Renaissance 1490s Camicia - Part 1
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- čas přidán 17. 03. 2021
- I machine and hand sew a medieval renaissance linen camicia. I'm working on a series of garments to recreate a historically accurate version of Danielle's Court dress from Ever After: A Cinderella Story with Drew Barrymore from 1998. Her green and yellow court dress is truly iconic to me, and the look is super similar to 1490's Italian Renaissance styles. I've chosen to start with the linen Camicia or Chemise, the innermost layer of the gown. Later I will make each of the layers to complete the look.
#sewoutofmycomfortzone
Pattern used for this Camicia by Charles Mellor: / 228205906107670687
Website I've been using to draft the other patterns: web.archive.org/web/2002060203...
Bonus: Diana the Corgi and Bean the Chihuahua dogs.
Renaissance by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommons.org/licenses/...
Artist: audionautix.com/
Folk Round by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommons.org/licenses/...
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
Artist: incompetech.com/
Journey in the New World by Twin Musicom is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommons.org/licenses/...
Source: www.twinmusicom.org/song/258/j...
Artist: www.twinmusicom.org - Jak na to + styl
That was quite an undertaking, I wept along with you regarding the seam ripper neckline sequences. That you so much for linking from Historical Sewing.
Thank you! Seam ripping sucks, especially since it was hand sewn ugh, but I'm very glad I did it, or I really wouldn't like how it fits lol
Oh my heart, those seam ripping sequences, i was internally crying for you. I mean, HAND SEWN seams, come on. That must've really hurt. And after all that, it turned out great (not that I know much about Renaissance undergarnments, i'm more from the early medieval nordic part. Best undergarnment patterns ever).
It really really did, I was just so upset at myself, but I couldn't let it be lol. Thank you! Sometimes seam ripping is the only way to make something amazing 💚
I personally love medieval and Renaissance dresses because they’re comfortable and flow nicely. You really do well creating these kinds of dresses.
Thank you! And that's definitely the reason I decided to sew in this time period, the dresses are gorgeous, and I feel like a princess in them!
Nearly every time I sew a chemise, at least once I mess up the underarm gusset and have to resew it! Your chemise looks gorgeous in the end!
Thank you! And that seems about right haha, I def mess up at least one thing that needs seam ripping every time, so frustrating!
Ever After = Is my favorite Drew Barrymore movie
Thank you! Gosh I do love her Breathe dress, but I do agree, there are some much more interesting dresses that she wears. I think I mostly like the Breathe dress for the wings 😂 her court dress is I think my fav of hers
@@AbiSueCostumes - I love her wings!!! I would LOVE a pair of them. To wear when I work Ren Faire.
@@ravenmaclennan3512 oh most definitely!
I suspect the ‘pair of bodies’ description is because, yes, it’s shaping/supporting the body and at first it laced in the front and the back - thus, a pair.
Makes sense really
learned a lot but my favourite lesson by far is the blood/saliva bit
My mom taught me that, I'm sure it was passed down or something haha
The puppy drama was the icing on the cake 🧁 Thank you for sharing your process! Your calm example will have me on my best behavior with my own mishaps. Blissings to you and your family 🌟
Thank you! They are pretty hilarious 😆 ❤️
This is so incredibly helpful to watch from start to finish! Thank you!
Thank you, I appreciate the feedback, I'm so happy to help!
The underarm gusset at that time period was bigger and a square, to allow the arms to go upwards without tightening or misplacing the fit. The square gusset was placed with the more flexible grain allowing to stretch as the arm goes up. I loved your process, btw.
Thank you
Omg I love this movie, love this dress. Subscribed. Gotta come back and watch the rest later.
I cannot believe I never thought of using Ever After as inspo for historical costumes before. 🤯👍
Thank you so much! And omg right? Ever After has the best dresses, I so want to make more of them 😍
Ellie really liked watching you make this, thanks!
Awww I'm so happy! 😊
In case you haven't looked it up, giornea is pronounced "jor NAY uh". I'm getting ready to augment my Italian wardrobe, starting with the camicia, so CZcams is suggesting all kinds of things for me.
Thank you! I can never get that pronunciation to stick in my head, I think my brain gets stuck on the G 😅
How fun! I def want to make more Italian Ren pieces, I really love the look 💚
Ever After is my favorite movie... I was just watching it the other night after I watched Bernadette Banner and a bunch of other creators critiquing 2022's period movies and shows for historical accuracy
I think the individual garments of the movie are quasi accurate to some periods but I noticed a variation of periods represented possibly
I'm not very educated on the various periods of historical dress so I couldn't be sure but that was my assessment
I'm making a chemise in similar style but possibly more French with insertion lace etc so I'll be rewatching this video a bit as I struggle lol
Thanks for the video!
Ever After is one of my favs too! They def took some creative license with the costumes, but I just love it regardless.
Good luck with your chemise! Insertion lace is so pretty. Happy that my video will help as well!
New subscriber here. I know this video is a few years old but due to a variety of medical conditions my creativity has changed in what I am capable of doing. Thank you so much for sharing each step including your errors. It truly helps.
Curfuffles! !
So happy my video helped, and welcome to my channel! 💚
I made this last week, it was a bit of trouble shooting until I realized all the gore should all be the same size! I made two of each size at first 😅. Thank you for your video, seeing you pin the gore was the aha moment I was looking for
So happy to have helped! 💚
Ohhh my gosh that neckline put you through the ringer. It is not an intuitive pattern, that’s for sure! Good job sticking to it and finishing the chemise! It’s beautiful! :D
Thank you! If I had only wanted to use a drawstring I wouldn't have had the issue 😂 silly me
Very pretty 😀
Thank you!
Love it, like you say , it will go with many dresses/robe's. But i feel your pain with the seam ripper... Wow, first view and comment.
Thank you! I'd much rather seam rip a couple times and actually like my garment hehe. What you gonna do!
As far as the pair of bodies goes, part of why you're having trouble finding further info is that their use in Italy (along with pantalette underwear) was largely regional. Also, typically the first bodies are documented as being from somewhere between 1500-1550CE, so in the slightest possibility that they may have existed a bit before that in the 1490s, they certainly would have been in their infancy and not in widespread use at all. Much of my research has turned up the idea that in many regions, Italian women were using linen tape as a bust stabilizer/binding in this time period or tight inner bodices of some stiffened fabric.
That's what my research came up with as well. In the end I found that the stiffened bodice was enough, I didn't need any other support.
When I did Italian re-enactment I would line the bodices with duck canvas (rather busty here) with stays in the sides and along the lacing sides to reinforce the stiffness.
Giornea, pronounced Jor-nia, like Giorgio Armani. 😊 PS- my family surname was DiGiorgio before we left Sicily for America. Basically Giorgio is George, the gior pronounced like jor.
This was interesting. I live in Veneto region/ Italy and have decided to start sewing a Renaissance dress. Looking on the internet, books... for an idea. I will start by the camicia. If you are not sure how to pronounce a word, just write it in the google translate and listen to there pronunciation. It does help me a lot. Ciao ciao
Thank you! Renaissance is such a pretty time period, so fun to make! And thank you, I did try looking it up before, but had forgotten how to pronounce by the time I filmed 😅
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Love the video. My dogs help me like yours, by lying on the fabric as I try to work. Sad about the burn and blood, but shows us anyone has accidents. I enjoyed your video. Love the info you share, and felt for you each time you had to seam rip all that lovely handsewing and gathering. How long was the chemise body wise.i.e. knee length, ankle , floor etc. It's just it looked less than full length the first time you tried it on. Thanks I have really enjoyed this first video and will try to copy you and make one for me. PS all those ruffles and cuffs are amazing and I love the nest way you attached them gabrielle
Thank you! My dogs are hilarious, but sometimes very not helpful 😂
So the chemise I made it as long as I could with the width of my fabric, which is 54 inches. I'm very tall, so it may be shorter than the average chemise haha, but it works pretty well for me I think. It sits just below the knee for me, there were some in that time period that were about that long.
I love how full and ruffly it is! That's my favorite part 💚
This is the exact pattern I've been looking to make for my renfaire garb! Thank you for making and posting this video! What was the name of the website you picked up this linen? All the linen I find locally is too thick and I couldn't quite make out what you said in the video?
The reply you made earlier about the cardboard drafting mats from Joanna's is an awesome tip also! I. Sure I've seen them in the store but it never clicked to me that I could use them on the floor!! 💚
So happy to help! I got the linen from DharmaTrading.com they have three thicknesses, I love them! And the mats are so great, makes crawling around the floor just a bit easier lol
What was the sizing of the arm gussets you used? sorry if you already said but I couldn't find anywhere that gave the measurement
I think I did 8 inches by 8 inches like the pattern calles out: www.pinterest.com/pin/228205906107670687/
Could you tell me the with and length of fabric in cm? Also the triangles and rectangles? Thank you ❤🌹
Hi there! This is beautiful!! I was wondering what your final sleeve measurements were? You mentioned you altered them. Thanks, and great video!!
Hello, and thank you! I used the wider measurement from the pattern for the width, 45'', then I added 3 inches to the longest length for 38'', I have really long arms so I usually add about 3'' to most patterns
@@AbiSueCostumes Thank you so so much!! Making this for my mom for christmas, so I really appreciate your tutorial and your quick reply! Happy holidays!! 🎄🎁
@@lexischaub5298 so cool, I'm sure she'll love it! Happy holidays 🎄💚
Hi! I'm working on a camicia very similar to this but I only used one gathering thread. Was that a huge mistake and what's the purpose of two?
Hi there! Two gathering threads makes it easier to gather, less likely to break, easier to pin. One thread is doable, just makes it a little more fiddly 😊
❤️ ❤️ ❤️ Where did you get that awesome drafting mat?
Joann's has the cardboard ones, I usually replace them every 5 years or so
hello! I wanted to ask why 54" inches for the width? Is it measured by how many pleats you want? Or is it based on size?
Hi! So I just decided to use the entire width of my fabric, which was 54 inches, I knew I wanted a good amount of gathering, plus I'm pretty dang tall, so I figured I'd start with the widest I can get, and it worked out! I could have cut some off the edge if it seemed too wide.
The widest part of my body, my hips, are about 43 inches I think, if that helps you figure out how that'll work for you. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Would this look bad if made with some muslin? I'm feeling inspired and it's all I have on hand right now
It would probably look great with muslin! I've made Ren Faire chemises out of cotton before, and they turn out just fine 😊
@@AbiSueCostumes I hand sewed the entire sing in less than 24 hours and it doesn't look half bad in my opinionnn
@@nicodianime that's so cool, congrats!
How much linen did you buy for this chemise?
I think I had 5 yards for this, but don't think I used all of it
Wait did you cut 4 gores of one of the sizes or two of each?
4 gores, if you're talking about the triangles that go on each side of the skirt part. One gore per side, front and back
I use google translate for words like camicia.
Giornea is pronounced Jor-nay-uh. Think of Gior similar to "George" but with a rolling R.
Ahhh gotcha, thanks!
Better than my rendition
Do you take commissions? ❤
I don't sorry!
Gee-or-neea
Thank you!
The smock on the neckline would have been easier to adjust by gathering the traditional way, probably.
It could be yeah, I was going by what I had in my head and no instructions haha, so this is how it went
@@AbiSueCostumes i"m very sorry for the spelling nightmare. XD
@@Antonio-mn5pq no worries! I'm terrible at spelling myself, I use spellcheck way too much 😅
What is the fabric name
For the chemise, I'm using linen fabric ☺️
@@AbiSueCostumes thank you , your Sewing Project is Amazing ❤️❤️
Thanks so much! 💚💚
New SUBBIE Here #YAY
Yay, welcome! 🎉💚
I believe in Italian you pronounce gi as j?
Very likely
Instructions and video are very hard to follow.
Sorry to hear that
Yikes. Your poor hand.
Yuuuup not the best 😆
It's pronounced "jor-NEIGH-ah". For next time, Cs and Gs with an I after them are a CH or a J sound, and you don't pronounce the I as a separate vowel (so "ca-MEE-cha" instead of "ca-MEE-chee-a". Just make a point of listening to Italians speaking. In bocca al lupo!
Thanks!