The sound improvement from your old videos to your new videos is great. I just watched a new video and I learned a lot, so I clicked on this one and I was, like, 'where did the sound go?' Whatever change you made to your set up, it worked.
I keep coming back to this video, it's so expertly presented. The video is great ,the lighting is great, the audio is great, to say nothing of the actual subject matter. Thanks for the hard work.
When working with cork, in order to create more realistic looking rocks. I do the divot, etc but I also put some texture paint on the top of it, to disguise that it's cork. Just some of the citadel stuff will do, but I prefer AK as they make more realistic products for mud, earth etc. I only pout this on the top layer though, where it would be most obvious that it's lots of smaller pieces (well cork, LoL) you can then work this further with basing sand and stuff. just to give it a dusty appearance with loose stones and stuff. I always do cross contamination as well, so I have some of the mud on the stones and some of the stones in the mud, etc. It really helps with the realism. Then also pigments are a god send for basing. A pigment or two can really help to sell it.
Vince : reference the holey areas, me myself I'd fill them in using old paint brushes cut down and hot glued in, so that texture and height variation is another concept to add. Plus when applying your pumas stone from Vallejo before drying takes place I dip the base into grit and stones, because I find it is easier that playing with texturing and your fingers only can hold so much at a time. Maybe you can trial this method and see what effects you come up with to add height and the effects of weighted stone!
Another great video Vince! One thing I'd look into making is some "Gloop" instead of using paste and filler, basically mix some Filler+PVA+Grit+Paint and you got an amazing filler/paste combo, you can play around with the grit to create different effects and textures. I find it to be superior to all the "basing pastes" since the finish is rock hard plus I can tailor the mix to my needs.
Yes, I know that is also a possibility, I have always liked and preferred the basing paste because there are several options of grit control and I always know what I am going to get (using Dark Earth vs. Grey Pumice, etc.). That being said, that is also a good way to go and I know that the Terrain Tutor also has some great tutorials on making the "slurry." ;)
I really like doing overhangs with my rocks. then if you have the guy standing (partially) on the overhang, too. Looks awesome. I did a priest with an Evicerator that was standing on a Lion King style rock, poking the chainsaw off the overhang. The base did so much for the mini. it was like a mix of nature and warzone, and I had bits of barbed wire with poles that had been stuck into the ground (bit gotten half blown up) was only the second scenic base I ever made as well, and carved my rock out of cork (got it looking good, but took work) my first one was done with an actual piece of slate, that took all day for me to drill through with a GW hobby drill (for pinning the mini) they were both for Evicerator priests for an Imperial Guard army as well.
I remember basing some napoleonics/French chassuers(light cavalry) with coffee grounds! Great tips. I personally like cork and other bits from model railroad shops. I like how you explain height/ scale etc. if you’ve been modeling a while you may know but lots of people don’t... hopefully posting this will lead to many more realistically scaled bases in the gaming community! Good stuff. Thanks for posting
You've helped me save time in all aspects of this hobby. I thank you for that firstly and you're well spoken so that's always a plus. Accolades aside, if you could answer a question. How would you go about getting a sun bleached effect on the carapace and shoulders of an imperial knight? Thank you.
Sure, I assume you mean you want to see highly faded paint. It's going to be a tough effect to sell on it's own. THe basics of the paint would be to desatuate it toward a high tint (i.e. white). Sun bleach burns the color out of things toward white. The issue is, if it's out in those elements, it's not just sun bleaching, its scratches, rusting, damage, streaks, grime and general weathering that all need to be in that mix as well. At the same time, if you have color in shadows (such as the piece on the knights chest or groin), those should remain mostly saturated with the original color.
Great tutorial, please keep them coming. Yet again I find myself saying that's how I do it just after you say don't do it that way. You have given me a lot of ideas for a 40mm figure I want to paint up.
Excellent, any ideas I can inspire are a win for me. My goal is always to present a lot of options and hopefully, you can springboard from there to your own ideas and projects. :) - thanks for watching and commenting.
I'm so glad I ask you a question about this nurgle mini on facebook ! You show me this channel and I learned a lot of stuff ! Amazing work thanks man :D
Great video! I love to get inspiration for different bases, especially for when making skirmish forces/warbands :) For larger armies I generally go with a faster approach.
Yes, the hope here is to let people use the items they like for the amount of complexity and time they have for the force at hand. Thanks for watching and commenting and I am glad it was helpful :)
Great video thank you!! It helps really much to see various techniques and materials being used, i think the most variety we add to bases the better it is
I recently discovered a substance similar to kitty litter but for absorbing oil and grease stains off shop floors etc. I run it through pantyhose for awesome superfine grit, then through screen door/window sized screen for rough grit (gravel) and unsifted it's about like river rock at 28mm/1/48scale. Use the superfine to make texture paint and sand, then the next scale up for fine gravel.
Hey discovered your channel this weekend and spent hours watching your Hobby Cheating series - it's fantastic! Thank you very much. Could you please do you one on different varnishes. Whenever I varnish I feel it really dulls down the model and all those nice highlights I've spent so much time on. Maybe you can offer some tricks on how to varnish better. Thank you again!
Thank you very much and I am glad the content was helpful. I have a Varnish Tips & Tricks on my to-do list, so it is coming. Quick recommendation in advance of the video, Testor's Dull Cote, and use it before applying your metallics. It's the only varnish I trust for pure finishing and protecting and it tends not to dull anything out.
After this I finally broke down and did a cork base. I've always hated the look of the typical cork base because it is often so obvious. I did ONE previously but it was mostly to make a slotted base for a metal model that I didn't have an appropriate size slotted base for. So my Skarbrand I was working on was surgically removed from his base, his stupid thing he was standing on for the captain Morgan pose was removed, and now he's on top of a towering cork rock formation, and he's looking like a proper centerpiece model! Now I just need to finish painting him...
Another fantastic tutorial! Very relevant to my interests as I'm trying to improve my basing game. Should have some polyfilla paste left over from decorating the house and I'm sure the houseplants won't miss a bit of bark!
This may sound odd, but it never really occurred to me to combine spackle and cork pieces like that; generally, when I'm stacking corking I'll use tweezers and picks and various other hobby tools to basically "sculpt" the cork (for lack of a better word) by breaking up the edges and the top surfaces until it look more organic. I'll definitely have to give this a shot. As a general tip (for anyone who may not know) you also add a little bit of rubbing alcohol to your glue and water mixture or put a few drops of it down on the surface of what you're trying to seal in; in both cases, the alcohol helps break the surface tension of the water and glue, which in turn allows it to spread out and soak in faster. You can also make something very close to the basing paste yourself; just add various grits of fine and coarse sand to the spackle - you can also add some white glue if you're worried about adhesion - and mix them together. There's no real recipe, you just sort of add things until you like the consistency and, if you want, you can also add a couple of drops of paint in if you want it pre-colored (like the various basing pastes).
Yep, I know the Terrain Tutor has some great tutorials about that as well. I tend to break them up, but I know that you can combine those depending on what you are trying to create.
Awesome tutorial mate. Thank you. I'd love to see this going ahead. Maybe one with actually showing how you do rocks, mud etc. And one with what kind of flock you are using.
this was really informational and I loved it! I want to do it all!!! LOL My first mini to base and paint is a Young Emerald Dragon so something like this, with height is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!!
If you cant get spackling paste i highly recommend using liquitex modelling paste, it works in just the same way as spackling paste plus you can file it down if there is too much texture...
Love the basing videos :-) When I started out I thought to go with black bases forever but I really came to love basing a lot :D Especially since the minis (as you once pointed out) stay in the shelve most of the time. I would love to maybe build a diorama but am very unsure where to start. With all your basing videos as reference could you pretty please make a video about how to get into dioramas? Like how many minis do I need, how much of a "story" can be told and what extra materials do I need and so on^^ All the best wishes from Germany :-)
I would direct you to Massive Vooddoo.com, their tutorial section has a bunch of info on Dioramas they have done as well as techniques. The real answer is anything goes. There are dioramas with 0 figures and 100+ - it's just about capturing a scene that has a story you want to tell - massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2009/10/tutorial-overview.html
I meant to ask before: When you say Dap, do you mean their wall filler? I went to Home Depot yesterday and the guy said "Dap is a brand and they make a lot of products." :D
Hey bud iv noticed that sometimes my sandy bases "peel back" my other ones are on really good and im happy with it. I think it was because after useing the white glue then adding the sad I never let it dry completly before adding more white glue ( thinned down a little ) on top to seal it in. I get bad results with Gorlilla gel super glue as it dry to fast and is more tricky to base with. So I got the Elmers white glue and will let it dry for a day then add another layer on top. No clue how this happend but this is my guse before I had even lower grade white glue and it worked very well. Would love to hear your thoughts. ( the gorlilla glue works great for smaller pebbles very strong )@@VinceVenturella
Amazing concepts and techniques. Do you need to hit the base with a varnish to hold the little bits from flaking off? If so, is that done before or after painting?
Another great vid. The flat top of cork has always driven me nuts when I see it. Question about the spackle, is there a reason you use that instead of just using the basing paste for that step?
You could, I like to build up a nice solid base rather than waste the more expensive basing paste, it also dries a little more solid and is easier to build up large areas (i.e. it doesn't shrink), but depending on the size of the base, you could do just the base.
so you don't have to dry this stuff out in the oven, or even clean it? not sure if we can get this in the UK. I picked up a big bag of komodo bark for lizard tanks, and it's dirty with soil and damp (needs dried in oven) I looked all over for info on what kind of bark to get, but couldn't find anything. Then I find this after I have already bought it.
is "DAP" similar to liquitex modelling paste? I was looking for something for creating a bit of height at the ground level, before adding your mud or whatever. I wasn't sure which product to use, so I just bought that as it's a brand I know (I use their inks)
does the vallejo texture paste not have enough glue grip to hold the grit/rocks on its own if you push it in a bit, without the PVA mix? i've not used it myself but have heard a number of other places speak about how it has a strong hold
@@VinceVenturella do you think it's strong enough glue in flock and more softer granular materials like sawdust if you press them down a bit? Or would you still use PVA for that kind of stuff
Solid video as always! What glue do/would you use for securing a large mini (stonehorn in my case) to the bark? Would you advise pinning the mini to the bark also? Thanks
Always pin such large models, you just have to. It's also nice as they have really flat feet and are an easy pin. I would also recommend Loctite Ultra Control Gel Glue, that's what I use for such jobs to make him secure.
I've been trying to find that kind of bark for quite a while (mostly through google), but I can seemingly only find the 40L bag variety around here, I assume for outdoor/garden use. I've started questioning if they even make it where I'm from... :/
Hi Vince! I came back to this video while I'm messing about with my Sylvaneth bases. Do you still use DAP as basing material these days, or are you more into using Vallejo's pastes? Thanks in advance and see you next Wednesday!
Hey nice work but i have a question : why did you usef dap then vallejo dark earth, wht didn't you use only one of them like only the dark earth? I mean I don't understand the difference between them and why using one or the other
DAP is mass, it's just building up area (it's drywall putty effectively). Dark Earth is texture, it's the final layer to make it actually ground. Hope that helps. :)
DAP is drywall joint compound, you can find the product (likely under other names) at your hardware store. It's basically for filling holes in drywall.
Random question but what is the advantage of the gridded matts so many hobby painters? My mother is a quilter and i know those matts are used for rotary cutters since they wont cut through the material when making cuts across fabric.... but ya theyre expensive and im just curious what the function in hobby painting is for.
I find the advantage is just that I don't destroy my death. The little measuring bars are occasionally useful, but really, it just keeps paint, razor cuts, spilled washes off my actual desk. I would call it useful, but by no means essential.
Most cutting mats out there are also self healing, which means over time any cuts left in the surface will close by themselves. It also helps keep your hobby knife blades from dull quicker, since they're hitting the cutting mat when they go through/when you complete a cut as opposed to a hard desktop surface.
Hey Vince sorry to bother you but I have a bit of an issue with a seraphon army I was basing with a nice colour potting sand but after I sealed it with watered down PVA it's made some not all now, look like building sand I'm drying guys out now on a radiator incase they might be still too wet, I was going for a simple desert sand is there anything I can do ? I don't want to paint every thing if I don't have to
Well, I'll be honest, I never recommend using unpainted anything on the miniature, including ground texture. It's just always better to paint it. In addition to things happening like you describe (which is always possible when dealing with natural elements) it can also change greatly over time. My best advice when using anything natural is make sure it's dried out, seal it, prime it and paint it. In general, you want everything on the mini painted or it will really stand out. That's probably the best advice I can offer, hope it helps.
Can plaster of Paris be subbed for spackling paste by chance maayyybe? I have a ton of art supply's and the oil paints about the only thing I can use ironically. Anyways...plaster has properties of cement but I'm assuming what your using is a paste Any experience on this?
I will honestly say I am not sure. You may be able to, but I am not familiar enough with it. I would check out The Terrain Tutor's channel, as he has some vids on using pastes like that and has some alternates. My concern is that PoP generally wants a mold or something similar, but it may be perfectly fine.
Well, the basing pastes have lots of options from Vallejo. The white stone has basically no sand and is super smooth, the white pumice is extremely gritty So my advice would be find the one you like with the right amount of grit.
@@VinceVenturella ah, could you do, if you want and can of course, make a video about cork and stuff used on bases with an actual figurine on it. Best regards, Alex
Stynelrez from Badger makes a nice white primer. It's got some better coverage than Vallejo as far as consistency. I usually don't use primer, but white paint (model are White or Game Air Dead White), with the thinner, it tends to avoid that grit.
Are you going through the actual block reservation (i.e. not the hotel itself?) - that being said, it's highly likely yes that occurred. That being said, I wouldn't sweat it too much, rooms always open up in late february, early March as people cancel.
Vince Venturella wow must be a big event lol. I may just have to book a near by hotel or ill have anxiety trying to wait for.a room.to open up. When does thw VIG package go on sale. I want that swag bag!
I don't think they have announced the date yet, but it's usually in September if memory serves. If you want a nearby hotel, book the emabassy suites next door. It's walking distance, cheaper, and full suites.
So check out Papercuts videos (he does amazing videos on terrain and basing). He is in the EU and has all sorts of product recommendations (including a replacement for this). Hope that helps.
This comes up every so often, I don't understand why sometimes the balance is off. When I play it I am much louder than the audio, but I did turn it down in future videos.
Vince this is an oldie but a goodie. People need you to bump this video.
Very much appreciated. :)
The sound improvement from your old videos to your new videos is great. I just watched a new video and I learned a lot, so I clicked on this one and I was, like, 'where did the sound go?' Whatever change you made to your set up, it worked.
Yeah, it took a while for me to figure out the sound thing, it could still improve, but we are getting there. :)
I keep coming back to this video, it's so expertly presented. The video is great ,the lighting is great, the audio is great, to say nothing of the actual subject matter. Thanks for the hard work.
Glad you enjoyed it! Alwqays happy to help. :)
When working with cork, in order to create more realistic looking rocks. I do the divot, etc but I also put some texture paint on the top of it, to disguise that it's cork. Just some of the citadel stuff will do, but I prefer AK as they make more realistic products for mud, earth etc. I only pout this on the top layer though, where it would be most obvious that it's lots of smaller pieces (well cork, LoL) you can then work this further with basing sand and stuff. just to give it a dusty appearance with loose stones and stuff.
I always do cross contamination as well, so I have some of the mud on the stones and some of the stones in the mud, etc. It really helps with the realism. Then also pigments are a god send for basing. A pigment or two can really help to sell it.
Yep, also a great idea for sure.
As always, top tier content Vince. Thanks!
Thank you sir, much appreciated.
love your basing tutorials,please keep them coming :-)
There is much more to cover for sure don't worry, more is coming. :)
Vince : reference the holey areas, me myself I'd fill them in using old paint brushes cut down and hot glued in, so that texture and height variation is another concept to add.
Plus when applying your pumas stone from Vallejo before drying takes place I dip the base into grit and stones, because I find it is easier that playing with texturing and your fingers only can hold so much at a time. Maybe you can trial this method and see what effects you come up with to add height and the effects of weighted stone!
Awesome ideas, I really love the brush idea, what a great idea to get the final use out of those broken down brushes.
Another great video Vince!
One thing I'd look into making is some "Gloop" instead of using paste and filler, basically mix some Filler+PVA+Grit+Paint and you got an amazing filler/paste combo, you can play around with the grit to create different effects and textures. I find it to be superior to all the "basing pastes" since the finish is rock hard plus I can tailor the mix to my needs.
Yes, I know that is also a possibility, I have always liked and preferred the basing paste because there are several options of grit control and I always know what I am going to get (using Dark Earth vs. Grey Pumice, etc.). That being said, that is also a good way to go and I know that the Terrain Tutor also has some great tutorials on making the "slurry." ;)
Gotta love Mel!
Great video Vince. A light coat of clear epoxy or super glue will give a nice hard coat over the dap so you don't have to worry about chipping
Yep, in general, I always have something over top (like the the mud here), so I don't generally have to worry about it, but it's a good tip for sure.
I really like doing overhangs with my rocks. then if you have the guy standing (partially) on the overhang, too. Looks awesome. I did a priest with an Evicerator that was standing on a Lion King style rock, poking the chainsaw off the overhang. The base did so much for the mini.
it was like a mix of nature and warzone, and I had bits of barbed wire with poles that had been stuck into the ground (bit gotten half blown up) was only the second scenic base I ever made as well, and carved my rock out of cork (got it looking good, but took work) my first one was done with an actual piece of slate, that took all day for me to drill through with a GW hobby drill (for pinning the mini) they were both for Evicerator priests for an Imperial Guard army as well.
makes sense
I remember basing some napoleonics/French chassuers(light cavalry) with coffee grounds! Great tips. I personally like cork and other bits from model railroad shops. I like how you explain height/ scale etc. if you’ve been modeling a while you may know but lots of people don’t... hopefully posting this will lead to many more realistically scaled bases in the gaming community! Good stuff. Thanks for posting
Thank you, basing is a big deal for me, I love bases that tell a story with the miniature so I am hopeful this helps others do the same. :)
thanks this was really helpful 5yrs later!
Glad it helped!
You've helped me save time in all aspects of this hobby. I thank you for that firstly and you're well spoken so that's always a plus.
Accolades aside, if you could answer a question.
How would you go about getting a sun bleached effect on the carapace and shoulders of an imperial knight?
Thank you.
Sure, I assume you mean you want to see highly faded paint. It's going to be a tough effect to sell on it's own. THe basics of the paint would be to desatuate it toward a high tint (i.e. white). Sun bleach burns the color out of things toward white. The issue is, if it's out in those elements, it's not just sun bleaching, its scratches, rusting, damage, streaks, grime and general weathering that all need to be in that mix as well. At the same time, if you have color in shadows (such as the piece on the knights chest or groin), those should remain mostly saturated with the original color.
Vince Venturella Thank you very much for the information! And the insight into how to make it look real. You the man.
Great tutorial, please keep them coming. Yet again I find myself saying that's how I do it just after you say don't do it that way. You have given me a lot of ideas for a 40mm figure I want to paint up.
Excellent, any ideas I can inspire are a win for me. My goal is always to present a lot of options and hopefully, you can springboard from there to your own ideas and projects. :) - thanks for watching and commenting.
I'm so glad I ask you a question about this nurgle mini on facebook ! You show me this channel and I learned a lot of stuff ! Amazing work thanks man :D
Excellent, glad to help as always! If you run into any other challenges, I am happy to help.
Great video!
I love to get inspiration for different bases, especially for when making skirmish forces/warbands :)
For larger armies I generally go with a faster approach.
Yes, the hope here is to let people use the items they like for the amount of complexity and time they have for the force at hand. Thanks for watching and commenting and I am glad it was helpful :)
Awesome! Flawlessly presented Vince. Thank you for the tutorial, basing mini's is now not a mystery thanks to your beautifully presented techniques!
Glad to help as always sir.
Great video lots of helpful tips I will definitely use for my new world eaters army, thank you 👍
Happy to help!
Totally amazing. This will change my hobby forever.
Excellent, always happy to help. :)
Great video thank you!! It helps really much to see various techniques and materials being used, i think the most variety we add to bases the better it is
Thank you, very glad to help as always, and thanks for watching and commenting. :)
You sir are my personal hero and savior! I'll never stop supporting you! :D
Don't give me that kind of carte blanche! Who knows what I will do when I go mad with that kind of power. :)
If you go mad I'll just have to deus ex machina and become a better painter than you, leading humanity forward! :D
I recently discovered a substance similar to kitty litter but for absorbing oil and grease stains off shop floors etc. I run it through pantyhose for awesome superfine grit, then through screen door/window sized screen for rough grit (gravel) and unsifted it's about like river rock at 28mm/1/48scale. Use the superfine to make texture paint and sand, then the next scale up for fine gravel.
That sounds awesome, I will have to look into that.
Hey discovered your channel this weekend and spent hours watching your Hobby Cheating series - it's fantastic! Thank you very much. Could you please do you one on different varnishes. Whenever I varnish I feel it really dulls down the model and all those nice highlights I've spent so much time on. Maybe you can offer some tricks on how to varnish better. Thank you again!
Thank you very much and I am glad the content was helpful. I have a Varnish Tips & Tricks on my to-do list, so it is coming. Quick recommendation in advance of the video, Testor's Dull Cote, and use it before applying your metallics. It's the only varnish I trust for pure finishing and protecting and it tends not to dull anything out.
Mr. Vince- oh boy you are so RIGHT. Testors dull Cote is awesome!
After this I finally broke down and did a cork base. I've always hated the look of the typical cork base because it is often so obvious. I did ONE previously but it was mostly to make a slotted base for a metal model that I didn't have an appropriate size slotted base for.
So my Skarbrand I was working on was surgically removed from his base, his stupid thing he was standing on for the captain Morgan pose was removed, and now he's on top of a towering cork rock formation, and he's looking like a proper centerpiece model! Now I just need to finish painting him...
Awesome, can't wait to see how he looks when you do get it painted.
No more painted cork pieces placed alone over a base! ;) Nice tutorial, as usual.
That's what we are trying to avoid here - the just a piece of cork has really been bothering me and I am hoping this helps.
Another fantastic tutorial! Very relevant to my interests as I'm trying to improve my basing game. Should have some polyfilla paste left over from decorating the house and I'm sure the houseplants won't miss a bit of bark!
Indeed, raiding the houseplants and home projects is the only upside of doing those projects ;)
This may sound odd, but it never really occurred to me to combine spackle and cork pieces like that; generally, when I'm stacking corking I'll use tweezers and picks and various other hobby tools to basically "sculpt" the cork (for lack of a better word) by breaking up the edges and the top surfaces until it look more organic. I'll definitely have to give this a shot. As a general tip (for anyone who may not know) you also add a little bit of rubbing alcohol to your glue and water mixture or put a few drops of it down on the surface of what you're trying to seal in; in both cases, the alcohol helps break the surface tension of the water and glue, which in turn allows it to spread out and soak in faster. You can also make something very close to the basing paste yourself; just add various grits of fine and coarse sand to the spackle - you can also add some white glue if you're worried about adhesion - and mix them together. There's no real recipe, you just sort of add things until you like the consistency and, if you want, you can also add a couple of drops of paint in if you want it pre-colored (like the various basing pastes).
Yep, I know the Terrain Tutor has some great tutorials about that as well. I tend to break them up, but I know that you can combine those depending on what you are trying to create.
Awesome tutorial mate. Thank you. I'd love to see this going ahead. Maybe one with actually showing how you do rocks, mud etc. And one with what kind of flock you are using.
Then you would want this video right here, as it more or less picks it up from here - czcams.com/video/Yre0wBPNso0/video.html
Another great tutorial. Thank you, Sir.
Thank you, much appreciated as always. :)
this was really informational and I loved it! I want to do it all!!! LOL My first mini to base and paint is a Young Emerald Dragon so something like this, with height is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!!
Glad it was helpful! :)
you really need more subs this is fantastic art thank you
Thank you, very much appreciated and glad to help. :)
I have to say, great result. You sir make it look easy. Now i gotta re base half my models :P
Thank you, much appreciated. I have a strict no rebasing policy, which means I hate at least half my models at any given time ;)
If you cant get spackling paste i highly recommend using liquitex modelling paste, it works in just the same way as spackling paste plus you can file it down if there is too much texture...
Good recommendation! :)
Love the basing videos :-) When I started out I thought to go with black bases forever but I really came to love basing a lot :D Especially since the minis (as you once pointed out) stay in the shelve most of the time.
I would love to maybe build a diorama but am very unsure where to start. With all your basing videos as reference could you pretty please make a video about how to get into dioramas? Like how many minis do I need, how much of a "story" can be told and what extra materials do I need and so on^^
All the best wishes from Germany :-)
I would direct you to Massive Vooddoo.com, their tutorial section has a bunch of info on Dioramas they have done as well as techniques. The real answer is anything goes. There are dioramas with 0 figures and 100+ - it's just about capturing a scene that has a story you want to tell - massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2009/10/tutorial-overview.html
Thanks for all the info Vince
Thank you sir, much appreciated as always.
Very comprehensive video - thank you. Do you ever sterilize/dry natural materials like bark or sand in the oven prior to use/storage? Thanks!
If you get them from outside directly, yes, it's a good idea.
I meant to ask before: When you say Dap, do you mean their wall filler? I went to Home Depot yesterday and the guy said "Dap is a brand and they make a lot of products." :D
All purpose spackling paste, sorry, should have been more specific. :)
Vince Venturella Not at all my friend thanks for the reply!
Good video man its great. Thanks for sharing this.
No problem 👍
Hey bud iv noticed that sometimes my sandy bases "peel back" my other ones are on really good and im happy with it. I think it was because after useing the white glue then adding the sad I never let it dry completly before adding more white glue ( thinned down a little ) on top to seal it in. I get bad results with Gorlilla gel super glue as it dry to fast and is more tricky to base with. So I got the Elmers white glue and will let it dry for a day then add another layer on top. No clue how this happend but this is my guse before I had even lower grade white glue and it worked very well. Would love to hear your thoughts. ( the gorlilla glue works great for smaller pebbles very strong )@@VinceVenturella
Amazing concepts and techniques. Do you need to hit the base with a varnish to hold the little bits from flaking off? If so, is that done before or after painting?
I do often, it's a good idea, generally after priming.
This is awesome 👌
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Another great vid. The flat top of cork has always driven me nuts when I see it. Question about the spackle, is there a reason you use that instead of just using the basing paste for that step?
You could, I like to build up a nice solid base rather than waste the more expensive basing paste, it also dries a little more solid and is easier to build up large areas (i.e. it doesn't shrink), but depending on the size of the base, you could do just the base.
Thanks, Vince, just what I was looking for. How thick are your cork sheets usually?
Usually either 1/8th or 1/4 inch.
To help someone from "across the pond".......What is dap? Is it filler, plaster of Paris or something else. Probably a dumb question but, there it is.
Spakling paste for Drywall, awesome for these sorts of tasks.
Easy cheap source of cork. Walmart has it in the office/college section as something to stick pushpins in.
Yep, those art packs are a good source for sure. Amazon also has some nice choices if like me, you don't like leaving your house. ;)
so you don't have to dry this stuff out in the oven, or even clean it? not sure if we can get this in the UK.
I picked up a big bag of komodo bark for lizard tanks, and it's dirty with soil and damp (needs dried in oven) I looked all over for info on what kind of bark to get, but couldn't find anything. Then I find this after I have already bought it.
Nope, it's just ready to go.
is "DAP" similar to liquitex modelling paste? I was looking for something for creating a bit of height at the ground level, before adding your mud or whatever. I wasn't sure which product to use, so I just bought that as it's a brand I know (I use their inks)
Sure, that can work, especially for bases. DAP is really drywall paste, so it sets quite strong.
does the vallejo texture paste not have enough glue grip to hold the grit/rocks on its own if you push it in a bit, without the PVA mix? i've not used it myself but have heard a number of other places speak about how it has a strong hold
It will, I wasn't using it that way then, but I do so now in the more recent videos.
@@VinceVenturella do you think it's strong enough glue in flock and more softer granular materials like sawdust if you press them down a bit? Or would you still use PVA for that kind of stuff
10:45 I'd have hidden a skull in that gap (or a Nurgling or something thematic for whatever mini is going on there)
Always a great idea.
Do you think that spackling right to the base and adding things after is fine? As opposed to a cork base
Sure, no issue there.
Do you do anything with the bark to prevent it from rotting or something in the future?
Nope, the indoor bark is already treated.
Solid video as always! What glue do/would you use for securing a large mini (stonehorn in my case) to the bark? Would you advise pinning the mini to the bark also? Thanks
Always pin such large models, you just have to. It's also nice as they have really flat feet and are an easy pin. I would also recommend Loctite Ultra Control Gel Glue, that's what I use for such jobs to make him secure.
@@VinceVenturella I'll give that a go. Many thanks
I've been trying to find that kind of bark for quite a while (mostly through google), but I can seemingly only find the 40L bag variety around here, I assume for outdoor/garden use.
I've started questioning if they even make it where I'm from... :/
I found some nice bark in the pet shop, it was intended for reptile terrariums. I couldn't find any in the garden section of B&Q (UK)
Hi Vince! I came back to this video while I'm messing about with my Sylvaneth bases. Do you still use DAP as basing material these days, or are you more into using Vallejo's pastes? Thanks in advance and see you next Wednesday!
I still use DAP to build stuff up, then the paste on top.
@@VinceVenturella Great to know! Thanks for the reply!
Hey nice work but i have a question : why did you usef dap then vallejo dark earth, wht didn't you use only one of them like only the dark earth? I mean I don't understand the difference between them and why using one or the other
DAP is mass, it's just building up area (it's drywall putty effectively). Dark Earth is texture, it's the final layer to make it actually ground. Hope that helps. :)
what is that "dap" stuff? I'm at 11:07 the white stuff he's filling the gaps with he keeps saying dap? Is that correct?
DAP is drywall joint compound, you can find the product (likely under other names) at your hardware store. It's basically for filling holes in drywall.
@@VinceVenturella O wow thanks for the reply!! And the info, you're the best man take care, be safe, and happy 😁🐢
I wonder what product alternative this would be in the UK for Dap. 🤔
Any kind of drywall paste will work, I am sure there are options at the hardware store if you ask for drywall spackle/paste. :)
Random question but what is the advantage of the gridded matts so many hobby painters? My mother is a quilter and i know those matts are used for rotary cutters since they wont cut through the material when making cuts across fabric.... but ya theyre expensive and im just curious what the function in hobby painting is for.
I find the advantage is just that I don't destroy my death. The little measuring bars are occasionally useful, but really, it just keeps paint, razor cuts, spilled washes off my actual desk. I would call it useful, but by no means essential.
Most cutting mats out there are also self healing, which means over time any cuts left in the surface will close by themselves. It also helps keep your hobby knife blades from dull quicker, since they're hitting the cutting mat when they go through/when you complete a cut as opposed to a hard desktop surface.
Good evening sir - quick question - where do u get your cork?
Usually in bulk from the hardware store or a similar place. IKEA also sells packs of simple cork for placemats, those are a good grab.
Hey Vince sorry to bother you but I have a bit of an issue with a seraphon army I was basing with a nice colour potting sand but after I sealed it with watered down PVA it's made some not all now, look like building sand I'm drying guys out now on a radiator incase they might be still too wet, I was going for a simple desert sand is there anything I can do ? I don't want to paint every thing if I don't have to
Well, I'll be honest, I never recommend using unpainted anything on the miniature, including ground texture. It's just always better to paint it. In addition to things happening like you describe (which is always possible when dealing with natural elements) it can also change greatly over time. My best advice when using anything natural is make sure it's dried out, seal it, prime it and paint it. In general, you want everything on the mini painted or it will really stand out. That's probably the best advice I can offer, hope it helps.
Hey vince, actually i don't have airbrush, so how would you advise me to base coat those rocks without the possibily of making a zenithal highlight?
Well,you can zenithal with rattlecans, but the easiest way is just spray black or dark grey, then heavily drybrush with a grey/white.
Do you varnish the base? would you varnish before adding grass, flowers etc?
You could if you really want to seal everything in, but I generally don't, I haven't had much a problem with anything coming loose.
Can plaster of Paris be subbed for spackling paste by chance maayyybe? I have a ton of art supply's and the oil paints about the only thing I can use ironically. Anyways...plaster has properties of cement but I'm assuming what your using is a paste
Any experience on this?
I will honestly say I am not sure. You may be able to, but I am not familiar enough with it. I would check out The Terrain Tutor's channel, as he has some vids on using pastes like that and has some alternates. My concern is that PoP generally wants a mold or something similar, but it may be perfectly fine.
Hi Vince,
What do you think about Vallejo ground texture? I think it has maybe to much sand on it?
Well, the basing pastes have lots of options from Vallejo. The white stone has basically no sand and is super smooth, the white pumice is extremely gritty So my advice would be find the one you like with the right amount of grit.
Hello there, do you have pictures showing this base with a miniature on it?
I'm not sure I ever put a miniature on this base :)
@@VinceVenturella ah, could you do, if you want and can of course, make a video about cork and stuff used on bases with an actual figurine on it.
Best regards,
Alex
@@Red.Diffraction.Studio I actually have a whole playlist of basing videos - czcams.com/play/PLcdsbwBroEmCHEnhbqM2E-TmREz12mEF2.html
Somebody has been busy today. What white primer would you recommend? I keep getting really gritty coverage
Stynelrez from Badger makes a nice white primer. It's got some better coverage than Vallejo as far as consistency. I usually don't use primer, but white paint (model are White or Game Air Dead White), with the thinner, it tends to avoid that grit.
Awesome! Thanks!
I like to put paper and a coat of baking powder over the top and paint it like asphalt.
That's a really nice idea, I am going to have to give that a try.
@@VinceVenturella Trick is to go slow and make sure you get the super glue even before you lay down the baking soda.
Awesome! You said ‘cavalry’ instead of ‘calvary’ 😄
I try to pronounce certain things carefully and certain things very, very wrong. ;)
Vince Venturella 😁
so when im trying to book a room for adepticon it says none available. did the hotel really sell out already or am i doing something wrong lol
Are you going through the actual block reservation (i.e. not the hotel itself?) - that being said, it's highly likely yes that occurred. That being said, I wouldn't sweat it too much, rooms always open up in late february, early March as people cancel.
Vince Venturella wow must be a big event lol. I may just have to book a near by hotel or ill have anxiety trying to wait for.a room.to open up. When does thw VIG package go on sale. I want that swag bag!
I don't think they have announced the date yet, but it's usually in September if memory serves. If you want a nearby hotel, book the emabassy suites next door. It's walking distance, cheaper, and full suites.
Vince Venturella thank you
anyone knows a product in the EU thats like those bark pieces?
So check out Papercuts videos (he does amazing videos on terrain and basing). He is in the EU and has all sorts of product recommendations (including a replacement for this). Hope that helps.
What bark are you using?
Indoor bark from the garden center.
Thank you!
so in short just go nuts with everything you have
I mean...yes? - It's a good summation. In general, nature is busy, random and organic, so go nuts and make something busy, random and organic ;)
Don't waste anything eh? What do you do with all the left over right hand gloves? xD
Doh! You got me on that one. ;)
cheating??? no such thing in this realm of life lol
TOtally agree, the name of the series is a bit tongue in cheek. ;)
I like your videos but please speak louder or turn the volume of your speaking louder than the music.
This comes up every so often, I don't understand why sometimes the balance is off. When I play it I am much louder than the audio, but I did turn it down in future videos.