I've Been Installing Fence Posts WRONG This Whole Time
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Today I'm reacting to a video from my friends over at SWI Fence and their awesome post driving method. This may change the way I install fence posts forever...
► SWI Fence's Full Video - • Driving a Steel Fence ...
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Thought you’d sneak this by us huh 😂😂. Now you know Dan the Man!
Sweet! I'm on Joe Everest's channel! 😲 (I'm the camera guy.) 😄
I held the flashlight in the blair witch project
When I started doing fence I was taught to set all posts in mixed concrete, then started working for a company that sets terminal post and drives all line post this i am talking about chain link posts just to be clear and after doing it this way for awhile I realized my line post seemed to be stronger then my term post because the concrete would be set but the ground around would be weak so then I started dig half hole pounding half way and setting half way and it seems to be a more steady post and allows to start stretching on faster without any or much movement in the post
Half dug half pounded sounds good, thanks for sharing
I've exclusively driven posts for vinyl fence, 8' and 10' galvanized steel pipe, for the last 12 years in Edmonton Alberta Canada. We drive them at least 4' deep, and basically never have a problem with heaving or movement. We've recently started driving our gate posts too, they are a 10' thicker pipe.
We run 5 Rhino gas pounders and 1 ready driver
You can post pound vinyl? interesting, do you just run a 5x5 insert on a post pounding tool? Also how are you top lining vinyl with the standard pockets for rails?
@@GingrBreadMan I think they drive metal posts and use vinyl post convers?
Is there a follow up to this? I'm highly interested in the concept. It seems like it could be just as good if not better than concrete footings for many reasons including what you explained about disturbing the compacted soil.
We're installing our first fence with postmaster+, after watching both you and SWI talking about it I was committed to the idea. Driving these steel posts seems like it would increase efficiency and profitability by a good margin, not to mention longevity.
These run $37 at Lowes treated 4x4 runs $16, cedar 4x4 also $37, if they last, definitely worth trying out.
PS: the helper is the one we call “The Dragon” 🐉
Mark was a cool guest on that last one! Love your channel man! Incredible how much there is to fencing and business!
I got the redi driver from SWI Wyoming installed 50 9' postmasters so far its a game changer
Would like to see the study on driving v setting posts.
In Montana we pounded everything 4×4 to 6 inch wooden. This is a video of my old boss pounder a cedar rail fence ( everyone says I'd impossible). So I say if your ground can handle pound away joe makes fencing more enjoyable. I now live in Southern Oregon. Pure clay ground and post move way to much without lots of cement (weight)
Yeah I am to soft with just pure clay and high winter rain. The ground becomes way to soft and post freely move around. Montana works great
Driving posts is great when the ground allows it , we use this method mostly on chainlink and pvc on steel posts whenever we can. With the gas powered driver or rhino with air compressor
I bought the postmaster posts but was unable to rent a driver, they're not available where I live.
The closest rental was 3 hour drive
I rented an auger near me for $40 for 4 hours
I really wanted to drive them vs concrete
The postmaster posts are ideal in the northwest due to the wet climate
I’m not sure it would work in my area, we are so stoney and Rocky, I use a rock bar as much as a spade or shovel when digging holes.
I feel bad for guys in rocky ground, we only have 1 area that was built on a landfill and the ground is so bad we stopped selling in that particular area. the rest is clay or sand luckily.
Yeah I agree I’m in Ohio and there are big rocks in almost every hole we dig. I would like to try it out but I think the investment cost for me would be too much. But if you can use it, it looks like a great way to do it. Time is money for sure.
I would love to see that driven here in San Antonio, Tx where digging a 36" post hole can be an all day job involving a rock bar and lots of profanity. Even using an auger on a tractor is a crap shoot. there are many posts I have set that I gave up on breaking out the rock, and simply used a post anchor (like you would on existing concrete) and calling it a day...
Hi I've watched your videos and love them. In this vide they have an attachment which will allow the 4" wide post to be driven down by the post driver. Would you happen to know what type of flange this is or a link to purchase it? My local tool rental shops don't have an adaptor for the 4" post.
Thanks.
I just have an issue with the stability issue of the metal posts. Seen one video where they can bend the post either way with just their body weight.
Great video! Do you have a link on the research paper on driving posts vs setting them? Would love to read it.
Looking into the postmaster before rebuilding my fence. I like to get outdoors from time to time and more often than not simpler is better and lasts longer. There are things you can find built into the ground that is just metal supports and earth that are from the 1950s that still hold up great. Better for the environment too in the grand scheme of things. Just my two cents but if it costs less and holds up just as well, it probably will become the norm!
I wish I could use this method but the ground here in North ga is really rocky
Seen a bunch of these videos, always interesting.
Would it be reasonable to building a fence with shorten postmaster post? In other words, using the box stores off the shelf 7.5ft postmaster post and then driving them 3.5ft into the ground and then using only the 4ft that is above ground to extend the fence up to 6 ft? This may not be easy to figure out the details but my questions is more a structural one.
Recently I had a 6ft fence blown over about 15 degree from upright. Of course it was due to the 20 year old 4x4 rotted at just below ground level. I looked at a several types of metal brackets for repairing this and was not impressed. So just as a test I used a some postmaster posts as the support for the rotted 4x4. It's not pretty but I am looking more for something longer lasting than 4x4. What I did was I dug and broke out 2 ft of the concrete on one side of the 4x4 post and then pounded the 7.5 ft postmaster post for a total depth of 3.5 ft into the ground. This left 4 ft above ground and then screwed the postmaster post to the existing 4x4. I am lucky we don't have rocks in the ground and the ground was wet so pounding the post the extra 1.5 ft was not that hard.
As a alterative would using a 4x6s instead of 4x4s extend the life by very much?
I'm about to tear out a fence and replace it with a postmaster board on board fence. I was planning to use the existing holes for the new posts I put in. The holes are about 24" deep, What do you think about buying 9ft postmasters, driving them 12" deeper than the hole, then pouring concrete to fill up the hole? That way it's slightly driven but set in concrete as well?
How the heck do you drive these without a machine?
Any update on your opinion after a year? I’m going to build a fence in a couple weeks and think I am falling in love with this concept. Last longer, no concrete mixing and pouring necessary..
It’s a great concept, there are a lot of fence companies across the states going to 100% driven posts.
So how deep are they being driven? is there a certain amount that must be driven according to the height above ground?
Can you drive a t-post with a regular electric jackhammer with a socket adapter on it?
How is the driving post working out for you?
My only wonder is with pounding posts In is eventually the post will rust and rot away, I’m sure with cement it’s the same thing but I just feel like that’s the only reason why we haven’t pounded poles in. If someone thinks other wise please try and sell me on this cause I love the concept and it would be a huge time saver
With it being galvanized I'd rather have concrete. The concrete provides more stability as the fulcrum is at grade as wind will try to make the post wiggle in the ground and cause cavities around the post for water to get in and for the fence to start moving more. The galvanized coating on the post also interacts with the concrete and prevents rust for probably half a century or so. I guess you might try to just fill in the top 10-12 inches of the hole with concrete and then drive the rest of the post in from there. But that is still exposing the bottom part of the post to groundwater which kind of defeats the whole purpose of galvanizing. Everything feels great when it's brand new but I'm more concerned about 15-20 years down the road. These posts are bomber, but only if done right.
Hey Joe, did you ever find out anything on this, if it works in your area or not? Im in the KC area and am looking into trying this method and wanted to see if there was an update? Thanks for the help!
Would you try this if you have kinda lose ground? Would it be better than concrete?
driving the post makes sense.
Agreed, thanks for weighing in!
"There's a research paper...." That's a professor statement.
If the ground is super hard, like where I'm at, u don't see this working wouldn't it bend the metal?
Are chain link fence gates exactly 3ft feet wide or not always square, also exactly how much more inches of space do you need to leave in between the terminal posts where gate would be installed for a snug fit?
I live in Neosho, MO and about to do a fence. I cant hardly find postmaster at the lowes around here and says online I cant order. Did they stop making them?
@@JoeEverest yeah I seen they have some in Springfield last i looked. They were the closest store to me that had any.
Irrespective or regardless.
There is no “irregardless”.
“Irregardless was popularized in dialectal American speech in the early 20th century. Its increasingly widespread spoken use called it to the attention of usage commentators as early as 1927. The most frequently repeated remark about it is that "there is no such word." There is such a word, however. It is still used primarily in speech, although it can be found from time to time in edited prose. Its reputation has not risen over the years, and it is still a long way from general acceptance.” www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/irregardless#:~:text=Is%20irregardless%20a%20word%3F,and%20with%20a%20consistent%20meaning.
@@JoeEverest Just because you’re not the only guy using a word, doesn’t mean you should. Axe me how I know.
Great video!
Joe!! Irregardless?? 🤦🏻♀️🤣
It’s a word! Promise! www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/irregardless#:~:text=We%20define%20irregardless%20as%20%22regardless,to%20function%20as%20an%20intensifier.
Just checked the price of this posts. WHAT????? Dollar or two higher than wood posts? I don't know where you are shopping, but if that is true, I suggest buying from rural king. HUGE price difference between the two kinds of posts. HUGE!
The statement was accurate back in 2021, when the video was made. Lumber prices were through the roof for Treated Pine, they’ve come back down since then.
@@JoeEverest oh! I see. I got excited cause I'm about to put in a fence. Not nearly the same. Guess I should still be thankful. Lol loving your videos
Awesome video I’ve been looking at the postmaster posts for a while but it seems like it’s a unicorn where I’m located and I’d like to be able to purchase some I can’t seem to find anybody that sells them
Thanks Rod! You might check your big box stores, it seems like they’re carried somewhat randomly throughout the US. You can also check with your local fencing contractors. If they have an account set up with Master Halco then they have access to them!
I struggled to find steel posts near me too. I tried ordering through lifetime fence's website but they wanted over 1300$ just for shipping! my local home depot only had 6 in stock and said they couldnt order more for me because theyre no longer carrying them. So i had to drive an hour away to a home depot that still had enough in stock for what i needed. a huge pain in the ass, and i hope these become more common so the average DIYer has better access to them. If all else fails, you could use chain link posts and get adapters to use wooden rails with them.
how do you keep the post totally square going into ground????......also if it isn't square, if you push it one way or the other, does it want to return to it's original driven-in point????......for ease, it's a great idea but I can imagine my 100 foot fence line looking down it and seeing posts go in and out as they go down the yard...at least with concrete you can level it in both directions and stake them until they harden.....hmmmmm
My assumption based on chainlink installs with post pounding is you set them high and cut them down to height, these posts can be boxed out with wood so I'm assuming it isn't as much of an issue having a cut end because it's capped. I don't do post master instslls but I've heard a lot about them so take what I say with a grain of salt
solid but ground was frozen to 11 inches how about in soft soil
I would be skeptical if the grounds to soft, in sandy soil I find you can easily pull the posts right out of the ground. The fence tends to be all over the place but i'm not sure if concrete would yield the same result. I would definitely advise against it with gates because I can easily move the posts out of position and then pull it right out of the ground hell I can rip out posts with concrete if the ground is to soft. I just tend to dig massive holes with loose sand jobs and lots of concrete and it seems to work, pack the bottom of the hole though otherwise it will sink over time.
Joe I'm getting ready to install a horizontal fence in south Texas from a company called "slipfence" can you let me know if you have heard of them and if so what your thoughts are please.
@@JoeEverest thx for the opinion. I chose it only for two reasons. 1) it looks nice and 2) looks li,like, it would be easier to repair the boards when needed.
My property has many good-sized rocks, so it seems a bit risky to try these out. Could these be used by setting in concrete as traditional 4x4s? Would they work well for 3 or 4 board farm-type fencing?
"Irregardless of the method"
Postmaster posts cost way more than 4x4 and they don’t come in 10’ when I need 10’ for a 6’ fence to prevent frost heave
They are more expensive on day one, but the first time they don’t need replaced you’re money ahead. They do make a 10’ post.
Consider the cement as well and long term cost.