Watched this a number of times, once familiar with the process I used the techniques provided in this video to fill spoiler holes in my decklid. Can't thank you enough.
Thank you . This was forthright and informative. Thank you for disclosing you did the same on the other side. Working on putting a new 4 cycle engine in boat.
A very informative video. Clear and concise instructions. Thank you. I'm going to use this method to repair a hole and crack in my caravan rear panel although I cannot get to the underside
Watching this to get past the sheet I am using. It is a bow n arrow and using thick epoxy. Learned 3-4 things to use in first few minutes. Prep application and the both taping and sanding with the tape. Now I can feel confident in filling in spaces which I figured was a fleeting idea. Thanks! *props to mr. sticky stuff on ebay for trusting me.
easily the best instructional video I have come across on youtube. clear and thorough. Question: what about irregular damage in a panel? I have a panel that has some splintering in the fiberglass where the hole is.
You can repair holes with irregular damage the same way. Clean up your edges to remove any stray fibers or resin that may be preventing the panel from laying flat. Once you've cleaned that up you can follow this same process of dishing out a repair area and filling it back in with fiberglass and resin.
For new viewers, take care to do no more than 4 layers at a time, and be sure to dab ALL of the mat to translucent and all air bubbles dabbed out. One trick also is to use an onion board (filler mixing board of waxed paper stacked for single use clean surface.) to prewet the mat before applying it on top of the wetted out area. This will prevent the pinholes that he had after sanding.
Thank you , answered all my questions , need to repair fractured door on my trans am. I was thinking to dish and bevel area out to make a stronger application.
Excellent narration! You did create a lot of sanding work for yourself with the extra large pieces you applied. You really only needed 4 layers max, as well.Good point about not overdoing the amount of resin. A fiberglass roller is a good tool for these smaller repairs.I would have shot some guide coat over the area before the last sanding with 180. Then you could really call it good with no doubt.
To fill a hole like that you want to cut small to larger patches of matt so you don’t over build. Less work grinding then fill with duraglass and finish with plastic filler.
Great job on the video....I always wondered how fiberglass repairs are made. It does seem to be a lot of work to fill in such a small hole, I think I am just going to leave the antenna on my car as-is.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience, I would like to honour your effort by sharing my experience. Working with these materials (especially fibreglass) with out a respirator is a good way to develop interstitial lung diseases. Please protect yourself!
I am working on a 1971 Corvette Convertible that I had to retrieve from the body shop after 22 months and 3,000.00 dollars worth of nothing done to it but butcher the panels. I have seen this video like 20 times and always discovers more details that I miss on prior views. I already did a repair on driver side door skin (inside, as I removed it from the door frame using your other instructional video on how to separate panels) and came out pretty good for being the first time I have tried fiberglass repair. Getting ready to work on the outside layer. Thanks for taking the time to do this tutorial and being so clear when explaining. If this shop that the body was at sanded the panels a little too much and exposed some fibers, do I have to try sand that smooth then prime over it? Can you tell which primer?
Thanks for the video! Great explanation and instructions. My C5 got very little damage after getting off the track. Ripped out a panel, now I got broken holes where the panels used to attach to the body. Will this methodology allow me to drill new holes after the repair? Need that to attach it back to the body...
I stripped the paint using a razor blade to remove most of the paint. Whatever couldn't be lifted with a razor blade was removed using a paint remover called Citrus Strip. You can get it at your local home store.
Hi 71corvette, I'm working on a 1990 ZR-1, is this the same process for smc panels? Any advice on smc? Thanks for a very well explained video. As a mechanic I'm no body man but think I'm getting ready to try, thanks👍👍🏁
Why don't you just fill it up with a bunch of good ole Bondo over cardboard? After all, it's just an old Corvette. It's not like it's valuable or anything. Ok, I'm kidding. I love your car and I love this video. Great job!
Here's a question for you, Sir. Sometimes a Corvette or Hot Rod will come into my shop and will have air bubbles (size of a pea) in the paint. I can sand them down and repair them with filler, but sometimes the bubbles will reappear a month or two down the line. What is causing this and how do i stop it?
Awesome vid(even if it is a chevy lol). I really liked using the tape as a guide of sorts. I wholeheartedly agree about using a DA or power sander. Especially around character lines as its very easy to go overboard and blow thru the gel coat. Also kudos on using the towel or rag for feeling for a smooth surface. Our metal finishers wear poly-knit gloves for this reason and they use very thin COTTON gloves on the paint polish deck. My only bit of constructive criticism is, as someone else noted, when sanding/grinding fiberglass/SMC/carbonfiber you should absolutely use nitrile gloves and a respirator. Oh and not to be too nit-picky but you really shouldnt blow the dust from the sanding with an air gun. Please use a hepa-vac or at least a regular vac. That stuff is nasty and one it’s in your lungs it’s staying there. Thank you for your help sopporting gear-heads everywhere. Far too many clowns these days just want to cut a check. Braaap! 🤘🏻🤘🏻
Good, informative video with good explanation of technique. However, you forgot to mention masking the hole underneath ! Some people may not realise you have to do that to stop fibres protruding through too much ............
when I'm using Glass and resin I sometimes have a shrinkage problem with my work after its refinished I usually use 3m two part fiberglass repair from the paint Store your thoughts please
Fiberglass resin is prone to shrinkage. This is because sometimes not all of the resin is cured by the hardener. Over time this uncured resin evaporates. This can be a very slow process and can take 6 up to six months. The potential for shrinkage can be reduced by using high quality resin, using as little resin as necessary to complete the job, and allowing the body work to "cure" for several months before painting. Parking the car in the sun on a hot day can help speed the process.
Great video bro… the last thing I was planning on doing today is watching a how-to on fiberglass repair but here I am…. very informative and helpful. Think I may try to do my FJ40 top myself…. I don’t want to be THAT guy but I’m a little concerned that you aren’t using a respirator for the sanding. I’ve done the same with sanding and concrete work and feeling it now
I was curious as to why you didn't do the underneath support work first? Would seem to me that having a solid base u9nderneath your top repair would allow more aggressive wetting out of the top section and not having excess resin drooling down on the cardboard and perhaps having excess cleaning and sanding laying on your back in the trunk. Admittedly, I didn't watch your underside repair so I could be full of hops with my assessment.. Also, it was hard to tell from the video, but if your top surface was slightly convex, wouldn't using your sandpaper have better and more even pressure if the block was flexible such as a piece of closed cell 1# density minicell or other flexible foam. I really liked your surface prep on the top and instead of the blue tape, I spend the extra couple of dollars and use the lime green 3M autobody style tape. I also take the time to make the masking tape profile shaped more like a band aid by using a bit more tape and then taking an Exacto knife and cutting the the inner curves before the lamination begins. Thanks for taking the time to educate us. I can see some hack just goobering in Bondo in the hole and paying for it later down the road.
Interesting.. wow.. it's been 6 years but still.... would a mechanical sander be too aggressive? way way more sanding than I imagined... I have a panel that needs several holes filled.... I may just find a professional that can get me the quality necessary... I'm so glad I watched this. I know my limitations and this just might step beyond my capabilities... or desire.
The process is a bit different but, essentially, yes. The materials are the same. At the factory the OEM panels were pressed between a male and female mold to press out excess resin and create a smooth surface on both sides of the panel. Those are called press molded panels. Some less expensive replacement panels, called hand laid panels, are made by blowing a mixture of resin and fiberglass into a female mold. This process yields somewhat thicker panels that are smooth on the outside only.
Correct, just a piece of cardboard duct taped tot eh underside of the rear deck. Once the top side was repaired I repeated the process from the underside.
your suppose to re gelcoat that area when finished just saying prevents bleeding later cause that body filler will shrink down into that glass but anytime you dig into glass you MUST re gel coat the area
I really liked your fiberglass work. But your filler application could use a little practice... lol Sorry not tryin to bust your chops! Hope the Vette project turned out well.
1) you had pin/air holes because a) your repair was very resin rich (weakens repair) b) you didn't make enough of an effort to get the air bubbles out (virtually none). 2) the reason you have filler on both sides of the repair is because the repair is actually to high. 3) the fiberglass should be lower than the actual surface and the filler is what tops it off or what would have been the gelcoat layer. You dont want 'glass making contact with the paint surfaces. 4) with as good as a touch your fingers can provide, the best way to inspect that repair is to wet it down, then take a light and at different vantage points inspect the repair for smooth planes. Or spray it with a high gloss temporary coat of paint and inspect visually. 5) many a amateur repairer has regretted not doing step 4 after their finally and very expense paint repair disclosed issues after the fact. 6) as in many you-tube videos, the title should read. How "I" repair fiberglass, not "How to repair ..."
Ray Nic, your statement is poor... #1... resin rich is not a definition. because you can make repair 100% resin without fiberglass. this is how they make "soap dish" with pretty seashell in them. they are tough material. #2. i prefer to put filler on "hidden side" first. thus thicker down there. this way means less fiberglass layering on the visible side.. OP is right about #3. he already removed paint via sanding up to 6 inch. but what he should have done is apply tape first then sand ... assuring to his knowledge the paint is removed in the taped off area. with #4. you supposed to use final, usually called smoothing resin (is simple resin but laid on top of cured fiberglass repair and feathered.... this gives you the best sandable surface. this way would give you best smoothest surface for paint job..
Geeeezs mate wear a mask ,.,an don’t blow the dust get a small dust buster vacuum .be very more careful with solvents and dust .in the 80s to late 90s there was no health and safety now after 30 years of panel paint i have Stage 3 Severe emphysema an can’t do nothing my life is fucked at the age of 50.
So this video was taken in Feb 2015 just about 2 years ago. I am willing to bet that if this car is painted you have a nice witness mark in the area that you filled. Here is why, fiberglass used by GM was formed under pressure several thousand pounds. Your repair has no where near the density and will expand and contract at a different rate than the original glass. There are methods to simulate such density which you have not done. Decent job for a home hobbyist but this would not fly on a high level Corvette.
The car isn't painted yet but, thus far, there's no evidence of any shrinkage cracking around the repair. Sure, there are other ways to complete these repairs but this approach is very common and is a reasonable method for those who don't have the means to undertake more extraordinary measures. If you have any links to a vacuum or press molded repair I'd like to see it. Bet it would be interesting.
Reallly.. you talk 3 minutes about a brush and plastic cup that coast 50 cents ..and just came back with the liquid with no words how to mix it or what kind or or... oh brush
Agreed. I typically wear a full respirator when doing any sanding. However, it makes it hard to hear my voice clearly in the video so I skipped it while filming.
I bet he works for Evercoat, but I can tell by his finger nails that he doesn't do this kind of work for a living. I can't believe he ground 3/4 of the panel away. Wow. I had to repair my antenna hole. I just used Dynaglass to fill the hole, sanded it flush to the original panel level and redrilled. No problem. Plus he resined the tape down. Lol.
Hector Delgado thank you this video is about when a douche doesn't know he's a douche LOL speaks about elementary s***like it's complicated and then overcomplicates the prep and sanding while claiming he's taking precautionary measures yet really only precautionary against his own inexperience and making the antenna delete out to be a structural integrity liability lol! He needed masking tape to use as a depth gauge!!! Wtf?
Sorry but using fiberglass on a steel fender probably wasn't the best idea. The prefered method would have been to weld a steel insert, that would ensure fender stays straight and strong. If fiberglass was only option, I would have removed fender and added fiberglass from the inside of fender without having to grind steel keeping it strong. IDK just my opinion
Watched this a number of times, once familiar with the process I used the techniques provided in this video to fill spoiler holes in my decklid. Can't thank you enough.
Excellent instructional - both in the visuals and the narrative. Cheers
I need to fiberglass a bumper split I got over this last weekend. This is excellent. Thanks so much for the video.
Thanks for the video, you know what you are talking about, this video tells me all i need to know to repair a hole in my Alpine A310 body!
Thanks for making this vid. This will help me big time with my C3 project.
Awesome. Thank you for sharing your wisdom!
Thank you . This was forthright and informative. Thank you for disclosing you did the same on the other side. Working on putting a new 4 cycle engine in boat.
Thank you for a very good tutorial. I have a VW dune buggy that is going to need a whole heap of repairs like this.
Thanks for posting. Doing some fibreglass work soon. Learned some valuable tips. Thank you 😊
Great lot of Pro Tips, thanks friend.
A very informative video. Clear and concise instructions. Thank you. I'm going to use this method to repair a hole and crack in my caravan rear panel although I cannot get to the underside
Excellent video - thanks for making this.
Excellent! GREAT video pal.
Thanks for sharing the info. Very helpful.
Watching this to get past the sheet I am using. It is a bow n arrow and using thick epoxy. Learned 3-4 things to use in first few minutes. Prep application and the both taping and sanding with the tape. Now I can feel confident in filling in spaces which I figured was a fleeting idea. Thanks!
*props to mr. sticky stuff on ebay for trusting me.
Nice video. Wish all how to's were this nice.
Thank you for sharing. Excellent explanations. That helps me a lot!
Thank you for making this. :)
easily the best instructional video I have come across on youtube. clear and thorough. Question: what about irregular damage in a panel? I have a panel that has some splintering in the fiberglass where the hole is.
You can repair holes with irregular damage the same way. Clean up your edges to remove any stray fibers or resin that may be preventing the panel from laying flat. Once you've cleaned that up you can follow this same process of dishing out a repair area and filling it back in with fiberglass and resin.
For new viewers, take care to do no more than 4 layers at a time, and be sure to dab ALL of the mat to translucent and all air bubbles dabbed out. One trick also is to use an onion board (filler mixing board of waxed paper stacked for single use clean surface.) to prewet the mat before applying it on top of the wetted out area. This will prevent the pinholes that he had after sanding.
Just bought a 77 vette. Thank you so much
Thank you , answered all my questions , need to repair fractured door on my trans am. I was thinking to dish and bevel area out to make a stronger application.
Excellent video, thanks
Thank you my friend not scared to try it now !
Good video. Well detailed.
Excellent video.
Excellent video!!!
just what I needed to see thanks
Fantastic video thank you.
Excellent narration! You did create a lot of sanding work for yourself with the extra large pieces you applied. You really only needed 4 layers max, as well.Good point about not overdoing the amount of resin. A fiberglass roller is a good tool for these smaller repairs.I would have shot some guide coat over the area before the last sanding with 180. Then you could really call it good with no doubt.
Excellent repair
Great Job!!
To fill a hole like that you want to cut small to larger patches of matt so you don’t over build. Less work grinding then fill with duraglass and finish with plastic filler.
Great job on the video....I always wondered how fiberglass repairs are made. It does seem to be a lot of work to fill in such a small hole, I think I am just going to leave the antenna on my car as-is.
Great video
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience, I would like to honour your effort by sharing my experience. Working with these materials (especially fibreglass) with out a respirator is a good way to develop interstitial lung diseases. Please protect yourself!
Really interesting. Thanks.
I am working on a 1971 Corvette Convertible that I had to retrieve from the body shop after 22 months and 3,000.00 dollars worth of nothing done to it but butcher the panels. I have seen this video like 20 times and always discovers more details that I miss on prior views. I already did a repair on driver side door skin (inside, as I removed it from the door frame using your other instructional video on how to separate panels) and came out pretty good for being the first time I have tried fiberglass repair. Getting ready to work on the outside layer. Thanks for taking the time to do this tutorial and being so clear when explaining. If this shop that the body was at sanded the panels a little too much and exposed some fibers, do I have to try sand that smooth then prime over it? Can you tell which primer?
Thank you, thank you, thank you !!!!
Thanks for the video! Great explanation and instructions.
My C5 got very little damage after getting off the track. Ripped out a panel, now I got broken holes where the panels used to attach to the body.
Will this methodology allow me to drill new holes after the repair? Need that to attach it back to the body...
Well done 👍🏽
nice job my man.
Thank you. This was helpful. Please show (and use?) protective equipment (like a respirator mask) more diligently in your next one.
Hi man! Thank you for your great video! What would be the best way to fix large area of cracked gel coat on lots else
Keep the videos coming. Good job. Will be doing a 1972 soon so more body prep videos would be great.
How did you strip the old paint?
I stripped the paint using a razor blade to remove most of the paint. Whatever couldn't be lifted with a razor blade was removed using a paint remover called Citrus Strip. You can get it at your local home store.
😊 good job I would have fixed it the same way
Thanks for info I have a light cluster on the back of a motorhome that’s got a hole in the bottom I am going to take it off and re spray the cluster 👍
Hi 71corvette, I'm working on a 1990 ZR-1, is this the same process for smc panels? Any advice on smc?
Thanks for a very well explained video. As a mechanic I'm no body man but think I'm getting ready to try, thanks👍👍🏁
Haven't done much work on fiberglass but when I do body work I always feather the edges first then the rest.
Why don't you just fill it up with a bunch of good ole Bondo over cardboard? After all, it's just an old Corvette. It's not like it's valuable or anything.
Ok, I'm kidding. I love your car and I love this video. Great job!
I wonder if this process would work on roof holes?
Great video! Can you post a materials list?
Is bondo necessary? If its in a hidden area, can I just use resin and fiber sheets?
Thank you sir
Did you add a sealer after you repaired it?
Thanks for that
Here's a question for you, Sir. Sometimes a Corvette or Hot Rod will come into my shop and will have air bubbles (size of a pea) in the paint. I can sand them down and repair them with filler, but sometimes the bubbles will reappear a month or two down the line. What is causing this and how do i stop it?
Would this work on plastic door panels???
Awesome vid(even if it is a chevy lol). I really liked using the tape as a guide of sorts. I wholeheartedly agree about using a DA or power sander. Especially around character lines as its very easy to go overboard and blow thru the gel coat. Also kudos on using the towel or rag for feeling for a smooth surface. Our metal finishers wear poly-knit gloves for this reason and they use very thin COTTON gloves on the paint polish deck. My only bit of constructive criticism is, as someone else noted, when sanding/grinding fiberglass/SMC/carbonfiber you should absolutely use nitrile gloves and a respirator. Oh and not to be too nit-picky but you really shouldnt blow the dust from the sanding with an air gun. Please use a hepa-vac or at least a regular vac. That stuff is nasty and one it’s in your lungs it’s staying there. Thank you for your help sopporting gear-heads everywhere. Far too many clowns these days just want to cut a check.
Braaap! 🤘🏻🤘🏻
Good, informative video with good explanation of technique. However, you forgot to mention masking the hole underneath !
Some people may not realise you have to do that to stop fibres protruding through too much ............
He put a cardboard backer underneath.
when I'm using Glass and resin I sometimes have a shrinkage problem with my work after its refinished I usually use 3m two part fiberglass repair from the paint Store your thoughts please
Fiberglass resin is prone to shrinkage. This is because sometimes not all of the resin is cured by the hardener. Over time this uncured resin evaporates. This can be a very slow process and can take 6 up to six months. The potential for shrinkage can be reduced by using high quality resin, using as little resin as necessary to complete the job, and allowing the body work to "cure" for several months before painting. Parking the car in the sun on a hot day can help speed the process.
what respirator mask is best for working with fiberglass
The dust particles generated are relatively large so any general purpose respirator will suffice to keep the dust particles out of your lungs.
Whats the best way to close in the gaps on the doors to make the gaps closer?
The only proper way to do it is by extending them using fiberglass mat and resin. It's a lot of work to create a durable long-term repair!
Great video bro… the last thing I was planning on doing today is watching a how-to on fiberglass repair but here I am…. very informative and helpful. Think I may try to do my FJ40 top myself…. I don’t want to be THAT guy but I’m a little concerned that you aren’t using a respirator for the sanding. I’ve done the same with sanding and concrete work and feeling it now
I wonder if this process would work on a fiber glass shower surround.
Yes, the process is essentially the same. I'm not sure what they do to match the surface color afterwards though.
I was curious as to why you didn't do the underneath support work first? Would seem to me that having a solid base u9nderneath your top repair would allow more aggressive wetting out of the top section and not having excess resin drooling down on the cardboard and perhaps having excess cleaning and sanding laying on your back in the trunk. Admittedly, I didn't watch your underside repair so I could be full of hops with my assessment.. Also, it was hard to tell from the video, but if your top surface was slightly convex, wouldn't using your sandpaper have better and more even pressure if the block was flexible such as a piece of closed cell 1# density minicell or other flexible foam.
I really liked your surface prep on the top and instead of the blue tape, I spend the extra couple of dollars and use the lime green 3M autobody style tape. I also take the time to make the masking tape profile shaped more like a band aid by using a bit more tape and then taking an Exacto knife and cutting the the inner curves before the lamination begins. Thanks for taking the time to educate us. I can see some hack just goobering in Bondo in the hole and paying for it later down the road.
Interesting.. wow.. it's been 6 years but still.... would a mechanical sander be too aggressive? way way more sanding than I imagined... I have a panel that needs several holes filled.... I may just find a professional that can get me the quality necessary... I'm so glad I watched this. I know my limitations and this just might step beyond my capabilities... or desire.
Is that how fibreglass is made? fibreglass, resin and filler?
The process is a bit different but, essentially, yes. The materials are the same. At the factory the OEM panels were pressed between a male and female mold to press out excess resin and create a smooth surface on both sides of the panel. Those are called press molded panels. Some less expensive replacement panels, called hand laid panels, are made by blowing a mixture of resin and fiberglass into a female mold. This process yields somewhat thicker panels that are smooth on the outside only.
What did you use for the backing piece?
its just cardboard.
Correct, just a piece of cardboard duct taped tot eh underside of the rear deck. Once the top side was repaired I repeated the process from the underside.
Is the cardboard backing permanent or do I remove it after repairing the surface? Thanks.
Angel Araiza It would be removed when disc sanding the underside.
Was that epoxy resin ??
that's what I want to know?
I doubt it since it gels around the 10min mark. My guess is polyester
should I take the body off of the frame for fiberglass repair
Good video, also I like Greek yogurt with fiberglass resin on top hahaha
I have to refiberglass my go kart seat and I’m just gonna try it out
your suppose to re gelcoat that area when finished just saying prevents bleeding later cause that body filler will shrink down into that glass but anytime you dig into glass you MUST re gel coat the area
I've read and have been told by corvette body guys that theses older c3s are not gelcoated to begin with.
Dude there is no gelcoat on this vette
I think the two worst smells in a glass shop is a small batch of resin kicking off and smoking and grinding old fibreglass.
what is your fiber glass resin ??
I use Evercoat resin.
good video, if you saw how I did my fiberglass repair you would laugh. Mine did turn out pretty decent so far but we shall see the final product.
what resin ( the brand ) are you using ?
I typically use Evercoat products.
Vendors send chevy panels with hole in it St. louis would fill the hole for radio delete copy the factory example.
You need to stay what kind of cleaner you're using.
I really liked your fiberglass work.
But your filler application could use a little practice... lol
Sorry not tryin to bust your chops!
Hope the Vette project turned out well.
I can smell the resin
You are suppossed to put a backing piece of glass underneath first and actually fill the hole, the hole is still there...
Safety glasses
1) you had pin/air holes because a) your repair was very resin rich (weakens repair) b) you didn't make enough of an effort to get the air bubbles out (virtually none).
2) the reason you have filler on both sides of the repair is because the repair is actually to high.
3) the fiberglass should be lower than the actual surface and the filler is what tops it off or what would have been the gelcoat layer. You dont want 'glass making contact with the paint surfaces.
4) with as good as a touch your fingers can provide, the best way to inspect that repair is to wet it down, then take a light and at different vantage points inspect the repair for smooth planes. Or spray it with a high gloss temporary coat of paint and inspect visually.
5) many a amateur repairer has regretted not doing step 4 after their finally and very expense paint repair disclosed issues after the fact.
6) as in many you-tube videos, the title should read. How "I" repair fiberglass, not "How to repair ..."
Ray Nic, your statement is poor...
#1... resin rich is not a definition. because you can make repair 100% resin without fiberglass. this is how they make "soap dish" with pretty seashell in them. they are tough material.
#2. i prefer to put filler on "hidden side" first. thus thicker down there. this way means less fiberglass layering on the visible side..
OP is right about #3. he already removed paint via sanding up to 6 inch. but what he should have done is apply tape first then sand ... assuring to his knowledge the paint is removed in the taped off area.
with #4. you supposed to use final, usually called smoothing resin (is simple resin but laid on top of cured fiberglass repair and feathered.... this gives you the best sandable surface. this way would give you best smoothest surface for paint job..
Geeeezs mate wear a mask ,.,an don’t blow the dust get a small dust buster vacuum .be very more careful with solvents and dust .in the 80s to late 90s there was no health and safety now after 30 years of panel paint i have Stage 3 Severe emphysema an can’t do nothing my life is fucked at the age of 50.
awesome for your lungs yummy
So this video was taken in Feb 2015 just about 2 years ago. I am willing to bet that if this car is painted you have a nice witness mark in the area that you filled. Here is why, fiberglass used by GM was formed under pressure several thousand pounds. Your repair has no where near the density and will expand and contract at a different rate than the original glass. There are methods to simulate such density which you have not done. Decent job for a home hobbyist but this would not fly on a high level Corvette.
The car isn't painted yet but, thus far, there's no evidence of any shrinkage cracking around the repair. Sure, there are other ways to complete these repairs but this approach is very common and is a reasonable method for those who don't have the means to undertake more extraordinary measures. If you have any links to a vacuum or press molded repair I'd like to see it. Bet it would be interesting.
Reallly.. you talk 3 minutes about a brush and plastic cup that coast 50 cents ..and just came back with the liquid with no words how to mix it or what kind or or... oh brush
REALLY???? my god
Less resin next time buddy
Good job but you really should use A mask at all times even when hand sanding.
Agreed. I typically wear a full respirator when doing any sanding. However, it makes it hard to hear my voice clearly in the video so I skipped it while filming.
71corvette Ok... thanks for the video.
It also makes it hard to hear your voice, if your dead. Protect the lungs, brother. Add Voice-Over, in post. :)
This guy does not know what he is doing LMAO...ji ji ji...
By all means, please make your own video and show us all how to do it the right way.
I bet he works for Evercoat, but I can tell by his finger nails that he doesn't do this kind of work for a living. I can't believe he ground 3/4 of the panel away. Wow. I had to repair my antenna hole. I just used Dynaglass to fill the hole, sanded it flush to the original panel level and redrilled. No problem. Plus he resined the tape down. Lol.
6:50 secondly...and secondly
Hector Delgado thank you this video is about when a douche doesn't know he's a douche LOL speaks about elementary s***like it's complicated and then overcomplicates the prep and sanding while claiming he's taking precautionary measures yet really only precautionary against his own inexperience and making the antenna delete out to be a structural integrity liability lol! He needed masking tape to use as a depth gauge!!! Wtf?
Way too much talking
Sorry but using fiberglass on a steel fender probably wasn't the best idea. The prefered method would have been to weld a steel insert, that would ensure fender stays straight and strong. If fiberglass was only option, I would have removed fender and added fiberglass from the inside of fender without having to grind steel keeping it strong. IDK just my opinion
It's a fiberglass panel. Hence the fiberglass fibers when he ground it down before applying a patch......
lol did you watch the video???
Gabriel Sandoval hahaha silly..
Wtf is wrong with you... its a fiber and panel - corvettes are fiberglass since forever
Psh, unreal.
Just bought a 77 vette. Thank you so much