You should do a final episode! It could help with maybe students who want to do robotics in the future (like me). Videos like that with the simplified robot would be much appreciated by not only me but a lot of people. Nonetheless, we thank you for keeping us updated and helping us with all the videos. Keep up the good work!
Nice work John! I've been working on a multi-axis arm with planetary gears also and since I have no idea how these joints are supposed to be designed I've gone through a lot of trial and error. Taking a look at your design is really helping me improve my design (or pretty much copy yours) so thank you for sharing this
Nice one. Had that exact gearing idea in my head a few years ago for a 'planned' robot idea that I never found time for. Nice to see it's out in the wild via the makerspace hive mind. Hoping to share another gearing design soon that will be better still for robotics (true zero backlash, high reduction, and very high load capabilities)
Ooh. Tell me more. It would be nice to have an even stronger gear reduction box. This one is decent, but the robot arm could be much stronger. Do you have any links to any designs? Or videos you've done? Or concepts?
@@JohnLauerGplus not yet but hopefully will have something to share in a few months or so. I'll shoot you a link once I'm ready to share it with the world :) probably via a Kickstarter if prototyping goes as planned.
You don't sand gears, you "lap in" gears. Apply a fine lapping compound to all the gears and run them until they get quiet. The lapping compound is basically grease and sanding media and the teeth of the gears will rapidly wear away the spots that interfere on the gear teeth. This has been the acceptable practice since modern gears were invented.
Interesting. I am working on a BLDC version of the actuator now. I'm printing the new compound planetary gear in nylon and indeed I am breaking in the gears by running them raw against each other and it is smoothing them out. However, what lapping compound would you use for plastic to make this process faster/better? I can't find any when you search google for "3d printed gear lapping compound".
@@JohnLauerGplus Loctite has a brand called "Clover." I'd say a nice 200-300 grit would do it. The Lower the grit the more abasive and faster, but finish is not as pretty... higher grits will give a smother, prettier finish, but take longer. After the gears quieten, remove and clean them thoroughly. Add real grease and they will be perfectly mated! THIS is old-school gear perfection!
@03:35 You can simply create a press fit cover for the inside which will in turn hold all the nuts in place. Falling nuts into a PG system is no fun and will not be an issue if the cover is placed.
Good idea. It would add some height to the system, but probably could make the cover be 0.6mm height, so wouldn't add much. Those planetary gears do rub along the top where those nuts are. The top sun gear does push itself up towards the roof of the gearbox. So do the planetary gears, so the smoother the roof, the better. A cover could help that be even smoother than having those nuts exposed. As I've seen the grease squeezes up into the nut holes over time. Although, I do think it makes sense to have some gunk repositories where over time the shreds of plastic can bunch up and get pushed into depressed areas to help give longevity.
Working on it +Mikael! The next step now that the actuators are assembled is to get the electronics going. Using ESP32's in each joint to generate stepper pulses and then will use ChiliPeppr's Cayenn protocol to upload all Gcode moves to each joint. Stay tuned.
@@JamecBond not if you want a touch sensor in each actuator for record and playback. Also, they are $3 each. That's so cheap you can sprinkle them everywhere. Also, running wires is a serious problem and this avoids that.
This is amazingly inventive in the use of materials when considering the potential accuracy of the end product, have you tried making a new arm with the arm, that'd make for a good investment.
the high torque nema 17 is not meant to be on rotation, its the medium torque in there... the high torque is on the shoulder, as it has to support all of the weight of the arm...
ive heard some bad things about mixed vaseline and plastics, it supposedly breaks the plastic down. I personally use white lithium grease. not sure if its true, but better safe than sorry. great video btw
I was worried about that. I searched online and couldn't find much data on the correct lubricant. If vaseline breaks down the plastic, then indeed something else should get used. I'll try the white lithium grease like you suggest.
@@JohnLauerGplus I definitely second the suggestion of white lithium grease. You'll commonly find it used in joysticks and things because it's plastic-safe. 👍
Beautiful, I'm quite curious about the next video where you hook up the bluetooth and use it!! Great design, nice to also see the small fans inside the housing. Nice details of your work.
Cool, what's your agriculture robotics project? I'd love to see more of an open source community sprout (pun intended) around this design so we all benefit.
I just wanna point out that metric isn't the 'english' measurement, mostly everyone in the world uses it except for US. Imperial is actually the 'english' measurement that they moved out of which is 'inches, feet, etc.'
after you break in the gears, you need to wash the plastic dust out of them as it will act as an abrasive along with the Vaseline breaking down your plastic. I would invest in some rubiks cube lubricant from cubicle labs.
not bad but for 3d printing you make hard robot arm. With 3 motors can be done. because you dont use 4 or 5 axis. you print in 2 dimension X and Y(vertical) and Z is leveling. you cant print on X and Z plane(horizontal). EXAMPLE of ROBOT ARM is: Human arm. Entire body is the Z axis from the shoulder start the arm and use it in horizontal way.The elbow is where 3rd motor will stay. You will not have specific X and y motor axis. Motor X and Y must work toghether to make lines and curve. Z motor axis is independent.
Very cool. For the bbs, (or however it's spelled), I wonder if printing a separate assembly - like a self-contained thrust bearing - might solve the problem.
I am now using PETG on my latest design as you can see in Part 3 czcams.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/video.html, but I am hearing robot guys using 3D printing like the flex on PLA better for gears. I'm not quite sure yet.
I don't think steel balls would work much better, but perhaps. Didn't try it, but I think steel against plastic may wear in an odd way. Plastic against plastic seems to wear nicely. Also, these bearings turn out really tight yet smooth rotation, so that's not the part of the design I'm worried about. What I don't like is the power of the stepper motor.
That makes more sense. I've always had really good luck Amazon filament. For me, around 200 maybe 210 if it's been out, it goes down nice. Have you ran a PID tune?
GREAT Stuff !.. and a lot of great info on building it. However, I noticed you didn't put ( or at least I didn't see?) you put vaseline around the airsoft BB's?? Also.. I built one a few years ago, similar to this. but I have never seen anyone use vaseline? I'm curious how long it last? as I used a tube of Lithium White grease that works really really slick and well.. still lasts after a few years!! But cost a lot more than a jar of vaseline . LOL.. so if it works as good. .I'll try vaseline next time !!
Hi there! You cannot imagine how this kind of things makes me happy. Keep going that way! I just bought 3d printer and started with Drone( arduino) I would like see more of this project. I would like know which CPU you are using and how you program it. Best regards!
Great Project! Your first layer seems to have lines between the perimeters. If you use Cura and want to get rid of it, select Off at the setting "Combing Mode"
I've been using a raft to print these gears so that the gear teeth are perfect. The downside is the raft makes that first layer on the actuator parts not look pretty. I probably should do those as a separate print job without a raft.
Because wiring robots is a huge pain and I need/want a temp sensor in each actuator, fan controller, hall sensor for end stop, ws2812 LED for status, and touch sensor for local jogging and programming. We now know how to run signals over the air, rather than needing copper, so can eliminate many wires that way. ESP32's are dirt cheap and a novel way to go these days. Yes, it's all theory until it comes together, but might as well give it a go.
Latest design now has a hall effect endstop. I'm getting about 500 Hz PWM signal to stepper driver before these 35mm steppers freak out. It's looking like 1lb could be achieved, but I'll be doing a payload measurement in Part 4 video in the future. Here's Part 3 now. czcams.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/video.html
Backlash is minimal given how tight these gears are fitted. Those airsoft BB bearings don't move laterally at all, so they're pretty decent. You'd be surprised how little backlash.
The bb's seem pretty annoying to deal with. Have you tried just printing spheres in place? I did that with some print in place bearings I made and they work very well.
That's a cool idea, but those need to be really smooth, so that would worry me you'll never get the smoothness and roundness that you need. Albeit you are sort of averaging them together, so maybe it "mostly" works?
I will say in subsequent designs I just went with cheap off-the-shelf metal bearings because they're worth the simplicity, smoothness, and tightness beyond a 3D printed bearing and they're not that expensive on the low end, but 10 times better than a 3D print bearing.
I think it would be interesting to look at options for bearings, but the way these actuators are all integrated is very nice and trying to get an off-the-shelf bearing in there may not be as elegant. However, I'd love to see if anyone could CAD out a potential design.
@@CinemaTablet I don't think that would be smooth or friction-free or tight enough. Ultimately you do have plastic against plastic since those airsoft BB's are plastic.
That's going to take a while to get all of that going. You will be able to send Gcode to the robot arm from ChiliPeppr from a new workspace, so you'll be able to visually see the robot arm move in the 3D viewer. A typical Gcode command would look like "G1 F200 X2000 Y3000 Z500 A234 B111 C222 D300" where G1 is a move that supports feeedrate which is the F value. XYZ are the base, shoulder, and elbow so going from bottom of robot up. ABC are the 3 wrists from base towards gripper. D is the gripper.
Very cool project! But never ever put Vaseline on plastic parts. Petrol based stuff doesn't play nice with plastics.😉 You should use silicone gel instead.👌
There will be 2 power wires going to each joint. They're not wired up yet. I may end up with a sync signal wire as well unless I'm happy with the Bluetooth or WiFi command sending being close enough on timing.
BTW, check out my new approach of doing a slip ring in the actuator for the 20v power so this turns out to be a zero wire robot. I'm not perfectly happy with it yet because I get some blips on the power, but it may pan out if I can get the design tweaked. czcams.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/video.html
I have nema 34 You did a very good job Can you do a larger model I would like to buy its longest get hold of Milling I am trying to build a milling machine with an actuator arm
Your audio quality is fantastic, it feels like you're talking to me in person with headphones on!
You realise I got a better mic for £30?
You should do a final episode! It could help with maybe students who want to do robotics in the future (like me). Videos like that with the simplified robot would be much appreciated by not only me but a lot of people. Nonetheless, we thank you for keeping us updated and helping us with all the videos. Keep up the good work!
Yeah, but a final video on this would take it to like Part 30. So this will take years.
Nice idea with the “mismatched” planetary gears. Now, you could add a potentiometer to register the absolute angle.
👍👍👍
Nice work John! I've been working on a multi-axis arm with planetary gears also and since I have no idea how these joints are supposed to be designed I've gone through a lot of trial and error. Taking a look at your design is really helping me improve my design (or pretty much copy yours) so thank you for sharing this
Guess credit for the design is Jeff, but your contribution helps immensely. Thanks again!
@@jaredgray7872 Check out the latest flex spline design of the actuator I'm now using. It's even better. czcams.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/video.html
*eyes glued to the screen!*
I love technical builds like this :D
You should check out latest part of the build czcams.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/video.html
Very nice work. Looking forward to seeing how it works out. Super tricky project, so well done for tackling it.
Thanks for doing this. I am printing an actuator as we speak.
Check out the new anti-backlash 50% better torque small stepper motor actuator at www.thingiverse.com/thing:3566678
Fun project. Excited to see it running.
Now all we gotta do is get a ROS package going for this!
Totally agree
Totally agree
Verry good design of bearings
Nice one. Had that exact gearing idea in my head a few years ago for a 'planned' robot idea that I never found time for. Nice to see it's out in the wild via the makerspace hive mind. Hoping to share another gearing design soon that will be better still for robotics (true zero backlash, high reduction, and very high load capabilities)
Ooh. Tell me more. It would be nice to have an even stronger gear reduction box. This one is decent, but the robot arm could be much stronger. Do you have any links to any designs? Or videos you've done? Or concepts?
@@JohnLauerGplus not yet but hopefully will have something to share in a few months or so. I'll shoot you a link once I'm ready to share it with the world :) probably via a Kickstarter if prototyping goes as planned.
@@JohnLauerGplus in the meantime check out Jeff's new design czcams.com/video/sdRGrTHq4hA/video.html
You don't sand gears, you "lap in" gears. Apply a fine lapping compound to all the gears and run them until they get quiet. The lapping compound is basically grease and sanding media and the teeth of the gears will rapidly wear away the spots that interfere on the gear teeth. This has been the acceptable practice since modern gears were invented.
Interesting. I am working on a BLDC version of the actuator now. I'm printing the new compound planetary gear in nylon and indeed I am breaking in the gears by running them raw against each other and it is smoothing them out. However, what lapping compound would you use for plastic to make this process faster/better? I can't find any when you search google for "3d printed gear lapping compound".
@@JohnLauerGplus Loctite has a brand called "Clover." I'd say a nice 200-300 grit would do it. The Lower the grit the more abasive and faster, but finish is not as pretty... higher grits will give a smother, prettier finish, but take longer.
After the gears quieten, remove and clean them thoroughly. Add real grease and they will be perfectly mated!
THIS is old-school gear perfection!
Great work, can't wait to see it move!
@03:35 You can simply create a press fit cover for the inside which will in turn hold all the nuts in place. Falling nuts into a PG system is no fun and will not be an issue if the cover is placed.
Good idea. It would add some height to the system, but probably could make the cover be 0.6mm height, so wouldn't add much. Those planetary gears do rub along the top where those nuts are. The top sun gear does push itself up towards the roof of the gearbox. So do the planetary gears, so the smoother the roof, the better. A cover could help that be even smoother than having those nuts exposed. As I've seen the grease squeezes up into the nut holes over time. Although, I do think it makes sense to have some gunk repositories where over time the shreds of plastic can bunch up and get pushed into depressed areas to help give longevity.
Please show how it works, it would be nice.
Working on it +Mikael! The next step now that the actuators are assembled is to get the electronics going. Using ESP32's in each joint to generate stepper pulses and then will use ChiliPeppr's Cayenn protocol to upload all Gcode moves to each joint. Stay tuned.
@@JohnLauerGplus thanks for the answers keep up the good work. Very interesting content. 👍
Wow..... this is really good job. I hope your effort easier access to robot technology for anyone around the globe. #globalpride
@@mohdyuzairin8719 Thank you.
@@JamecBond not if you want a touch sensor in each actuator for record and playback. Also, they are $3 each. That's so cheap you can sprinkle them everywhere. Also, running wires is a serious problem and this avoids that.
This is amazingly inventive in the use of materials when considering the potential accuracy of the end product, have you tried making a new arm with the arm, that'd make for a good investment.
the high torque nema 17 is not meant to be on rotation, its the medium torque in there... the high torque is on the shoulder, as it has to support all of the weight of the arm...
Yes, i think i messed up putting the larger motor in the base. I caught that too. Good eye.
That wooden table is so nice
That's so funny. Although the video is all about the robot arm, I do think the table behind it helps glorify the whole thing.
ive heard some bad things about mixed vaseline and plastics, it supposedly breaks the plastic down. I personally use white lithium grease. not sure if its true, but better safe than sorry. great video btw
I was worried about that. I searched online and couldn't find much data on the correct lubricant. If vaseline breaks down the plastic, then indeed something else should get used. I'll try the white lithium grease like you suggest.
@@JohnLauerGplus I definitely second the suggestion of white lithium grease. You'll commonly find it used in joysticks and things because it's plastic-safe. 👍
I thought the same.
I believe it depends on the type of plastic, some plastics react to it and some don't. Would depend on what type of filament he used for the print.
Can't go wrong with silicone grease. Used in distillation lab equipment because of how little it reacts with other chemicals.
Beautiful, I'm quite curious about the next video where you hook up the bluetooth and use it!! Great design, nice to also see the small fans inside the housing. Nice details of your work.
Great video for me. I'm working on a robotics project for precision agriculture and received pretty good ideas. Thank you.
Cool, what's your agriculture robotics project? I'd love to see more of an open source community sprout (pun intended) around this design so we all benefit.
@@JohnLauerGplus I'm looking at a "something" to select and pick up fruits. Initially.
If possible, I would like to share in private. May be through Linkedin. Thank you.
Nicely done, keeping an eye on this one
3:21
Nice
🤣 i thought the same and ... 3:33
Perfect! I realy appreciate your work. Keep uploading!
I just wanna point out that metric isn't the 'english' measurement, mostly everyone in the world uses it except for US. Imperial is actually the 'english' measurement that they moved out of which is 'inches, feet, etc.'
Yeah that's what he said, the model is in english "imperial" however the nema holes are in metric
Absolutely awesome, can't wait to see more! (Especially the control interface!)
I'm glad I've found your channel!
Cool project, looking forward to next video!
This is so bad ass!
Great job with the build, looks really neat.
Thanks for sharing and as always Keep Building👍
Wow, beautifully engineered. Great design and walk though as well. 👍
Thanks!
Sir this is the very nice project and I want to implement it too but I'm unable to find the STL of all actuators ... Could you please help me please 🥺
This is actually genius! And controlling it via BT makes it modular too!
Nice prints. Thank you!
maybe you could fine adjust the extrusion multiplier so that you don't end up with a lot of sending.
You should do an ASMR 3D printing! Voice is very soothing. All love from Pakistan!!! 😃
So impressive. Thanks for sharing!
Adjust the current , that screaming is due to too high set voltage regulator on the stepper driver. The stepper motors shall be dead silent
That's a lot of work........Good job 👍
after you break in the gears, you need to wash the plastic dust out of them as it will act as an abrasive along with the Vaseline breaking down your plastic. I would invest in some rubiks cube lubricant from cubicle labs.
silicone based would be best
Oh damn, I wish I have some free time to try to make your arm, nice job.
Beautiful Project. Congratulations.
not bad but for 3d printing you make hard robot arm. With 3 motors can be done. because you dont use 4 or 5 axis. you print in 2 dimension X and Y(vertical) and Z is leveling. you cant print on X and Z plane(horizontal).
EXAMPLE of ROBOT ARM is: Human arm. Entire body is the Z axis from the shoulder start the arm and use it in horizontal way.The elbow is where 3rd motor will stay. You will not have specific X and y motor axis. Motor X and Y must work toghether to make lines and curve. Z motor axis is independent.
Finally a video that addresses the actual interresting part
She Looks Nice!
In my experience, Zyltech's PLA is amazing. even Uncle Jessy suggests it.
Very cool. For the bbs, (or however it's spelled), I wonder if printing a separate assembly - like a self-contained thrust bearing - might solve the problem.
Très jolie canalisation d' évier.
I always found PLA was prone to cracking, I now exclusively use PETG ... just a thought
I am now using PETG on my latest design as you can see in Part 3 czcams.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/video.html, but I am hearing robot guys using 3D printing like the flex on PLA better for gears. I'm not quite sure yet.
Thats passion, really inspiring.
Awsome voiceover
Awesome!
Nicely done!
That is SO COOL! I want to do something like this!!!
It's a really cool project, but the shaky camera drives me crazy!!
amazing work, you should print a tripode for your camera ahaha.
It looks very nice, but I would probably have used steel balls for the bearing. Why did you choose to go with plastic pellets?
I don't think steel balls would work much better, but perhaps. Didn't try it, but I think steel against plastic may wear in an odd way. Plastic against plastic seems to wear nicely. Also, these bearings turn out really tight yet smooth rotation, so that's not the part of the design I'm worried about. What I don't like is the power of the stepper motor.
3:21 had to do it to em
Why not use servo motors and forget the gears?
That makes more sense.
I've always had really good luck Amazon filament. For me, around 200 maybe 210 if it's been out, it goes down nice.
Have you ran a PID tune?
It begins!!
This is awesome! Nice work👍
GREAT Stuff !.. and a lot of great info on building it. However, I noticed you didn't put ( or at least I didn't see?) you put vaseline around the airsoft BB's?? Also.. I built one a few years ago, similar to this. but I have never seen anyone use vaseline? I'm curious how long it last? as I used a tube of Lithium White grease that works really really slick and well.. still lasts after a few years!! But cost a lot more than a jar of vaseline . LOL.. so if it works as good. .I'll try vaseline next time !!
Hi there! You cannot imagine how this kind of things makes me happy. Keep going that way! I just bought 3d printer and started with Drone( arduino)
I would like see more of this project. I would like know which CPU you are using and how you program it.
Best regards!
Then you should watch part 2 and part 3!
John Lauer thanks John! Subscribed!
Great Project! Your first layer seems to have lines between the perimeters. If you use Cura and want to get rid of it, select Off at the setting "Combing Mode"
I've been using a raft to print these gears so that the gear teeth are perfect. The downside is the raft makes that first layer on the actuator parts not look pretty. I probably should do those as a separate print job without a raft.
Nice one mate
Why did you not put the drivers and boards in the bottom and wire it through? Great job btw.
Because wiring robots is a huge pain and I need/want a temp sensor in each actuator, fan controller, hall sensor for end stop, ws2812 LED for status, and touch sensor for local jogging and programming. We now know how to run signals over the air, rather than needing copper, so can eliminate many wires that way. ESP32's are dirt cheap and a novel way to go these days. Yes, it's all theory until it comes together, but might as well give it a go.
@@JohnLauerGplus thanks man
@@williamalkhoury3417 Part 3 shows you it all coming together--thus answering your original question. czcams.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/video.html
Cant wait for the next video!
GJ!!!!
And, part 3 is now posted czcams.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/video.html
Very nice! Encoders? Limit switches? Payload max? Movement speed?
Latest design now has a hall effect endstop. I'm getting about 500 Hz PWM signal to stepper driver before these 35mm steppers freak out. It's looking like 1lb could be achieved, but I'll be doing a payload measurement in Part 4 video in the future. Here's Part 3 now. czcams.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/video.html
Subed for Shure! Awsome sound and text!
Absolutely awesome work, what abouth backlash? Thanks for sharing
Backlash is minimal given how tight these gears are fitted. Those airsoft BB bearings don't move laterally at all, so they're pretty decent. You'd be surprised how little backlash.
And now the latest design has an anti-backlash flex spline in the actuator to help solve backlash. czcams.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/video.html
This is amazing!!. So clean and robust. What is the load it can carry? Any tests carried on that?
It can carry 1 pound.
@@JohnLauerGplus what would be the possible changes for 4 pound payload.? Motors and higher reduction ratios I guess?
@@sharath_naik yes, I think that would be the trick but you may have to move to metal to do that.
Hey thanks for the great video! Subscribed. :)
The bb's seem pretty annoying to deal with. Have you tried just printing spheres in place? I did that with some print in place bearings I made and they work very well.
That's a cool idea, but those need to be really smooth, so that would worry me you'll never get the smoothness and roundness that you need. Albeit you are sort of averaging them together, so maybe it "mostly" works?
I will say in subsequent designs I just went with cheap off-the-shelf metal bearings because they're worth the simplicity, smoothness, and tightness beyond a 3D printed bearing and they're not that expensive on the low end, but 10 times better than a 3D print bearing.
Thats really sweet
Thanks!
Amazing videos 🎉 are you using PLA?
Yes, that was all PLA because I only had an Ender 3 at the time so that was my goto.
it looks like you printed this on the ender 3, if you did, Thank you for doing so, that lets me know big prints are possible on a small machine
I've been very happy with the ender 3. However I did have to replace the extruder plastic parts with aluminum ones because they cracked
Спасибо! Золотые руки.
common... i watched without skipping to the end and we don't see you operating this bad boy...
Don't have it working yet. The electronics aren't easy.
Excellent video. Which 3D did you use and/or recommend?
You should try casting metal
i don't think casting would be precise enough
AMAZING JOB! Wow
Looks interesting! What about just plain sliding bearings?
I think it would be interesting to look at options for bearings, but the way these actuators are all integrated is very nice and trying to get an off-the-shelf bearing in there may not be as elegant. However, I'd love to see if anyone could CAD out a potential design.
Well, I just ment to use plastics sliding against each other. Without any real bearings.
@@CinemaTablet I don't think that would be smooth or friction-free or tight enough. Ultimately you do have plastic against plastic since those airsoft BB's are plastic.
good job , it's awesome
Very nice project! Have you tried any other lubricants? I like white lithium grease since it's not absorbed by the plastic.
I took your suggestion and got the white lithium grease. I'm using that now instead of vaseline. Thanks for the idea!
hello,
It's an impressive design. can you also do a video on inverse kinematics...
That's going to take a while to get all of that going. You will be able to send Gcode to the robot arm from ChiliPeppr from a new workspace, so you'll be able to visually see the robot arm move in the 3D viewer. A typical Gcode command would look like "G1 F200 X2000 Y3000 Z500 A234 B111 C222 D300" where G1 is a move that supports feeedrate which is the F value. XYZ are the base, shoulder, and elbow so going from bottom of robot up. ABC are the 3 wrists from base towards gripper. D is the gripper.
Very cool project! But never ever put Vaseline on plastic parts. Petrol based stuff doesn't play nice with plastics.😉 You should use silicone gel instead.👌
FullFledged2010 He is printing with PLA which isn’t petrol based ;)
Super nice!
So sick!
We need to see how it works...
You need a tripod...
I think you print great one... 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Very impressive, and looking forward to your updates. Probably me being an idiot, but how is power/signal fed through each joint?
There will be 2 power wires going to each joint. They're not wired up yet. I may end up with a sync signal wire as well unless I'm happy with the Bluetooth or WiFi command sending being close enough on timing.
BTW, check out my new approach of doing a slip ring in the actuator for the 20v power so this turns out to be a zero wire robot. I'm not perfectly happy with it yet because I get some blips on the power, but it may pan out if I can get the design tweaked. czcams.com/video/4o3d7_WZ_DQ/video.html
Nice very nice
I have nema 34 You did a very good job Can you do a larger model I would like to buy its longest get hold of Milling I am trying to build a milling machine with an actuator arm
Wow, this video is very informative and challenging as well. Bro ,can you please tell me what is the size of BB ? Whether is it 2 or 5mm?
Cool, i want to do this
You totally should, and if you do, can you post some vids about it. I'd really like to see how other projects come together.
@@JohnLauerGplus Yes, i have youtube chanel for robotics and i real like this sheat))))
Wonder if you can make same with one stepper and air pushing from set stepper to get same movement less power parts?
This is awsome
its look amazing ... nice work ... you have public models ?
They're in the description.
Thanks for sharing!
Nice bro...
My left ear like this video