I work at the call center, it’s stressful to receive 100s of call of customers complaining about their DA parts. Makes it worse since the owner just changed the warranty policy, even if you purchase a 15 piece kit, you are just able to have one part replaced under a onetime replacement within the 10 year frame, the parts are Chinese! That explains the dust on your parts 🇨🇳! Ball joints go bad since the rubber is the cheapest in the market, axles punctured on the rubber boots, defective pressure lines on the rack and pinions and plenty of more sh*t going on! Simply stay away from this company! Yes, the parts are cheap on the website, but do have in mind; cheap becomes expensive !
Sorry thats not from us at Detroit Axle... our studs are not yellow, and my people would have shipped you warranty for free. even if you over torqued the hub. and missed it up.. given you a free warranty even if you mess it up, is better then trying to trash our name. we have 200 people/ families eating from here would ask you to reconsider thanks Mike
Sir I have new brakes and pads in there boxes right now. Why would I lie this wheel hub did come from you guys? I torqued to specifications. I only posted video because I lost time and money.
They have a 10 year warranty, this guy is definitely trying to trash the name for no reason. He doesn’t even specify what exactly failed, nor does he even show it. He is just rambling on about his story of a wheel hub assembly and saying to get moog, when moog has gone downhill in quality.
@@tcekamper Your right I took off the hub and replaced it for no reason. I just wanna run this company's name into the dirt. That makes no sense it sounds like you work for them. I have a closet full of new parts I'm scared to use. Nobodys offering a refund. As a business owner if someone was scared to use my product that was brand new in a box. I would refund them.
I bought a bravex distributor and cap on Amazon ! Left me sitting on the side of the road, called bravex, they said they were sending me a replacement for the bad distributor and cap. Nothing yet! 4 Months! Also used 3 different sets of steering parts from Detroit Axle, had trouble with set up and being warped or too long or shorter than needed. I have a f350, I just got parts for and the castle nuts don’t line up right! Have learned my lesson, I’m going to start using Ford parts for my fords! I’ve lost about 1200 bucks and twice that in time, working the parts on!
I replaced factory hubs on a daily driver 2008 Chevy Equinox front wheel drive back in 2017 with Detroit Axle Hubs. Also replaced the rear hubs with Detroit Axle two years ago. So far, the hubs are showing no sign of failure. The correct torque setting for the big nut on the front hubs or rear hubs with all wheel drive is very important for longevity of the bearings. So, for me, Detroit Axle hubs for the price, are a product.
Thank you for info! I had a plan to go for cheaper brands like Detroit Axle for my VW Jetta but i guess not worth the headache and redoing a replacement considering labor fee is costly! I wonder what your opinion is about FAG wheel bearing, they manufactured in Slovakia and sold under European brand for German cars.
I replaced factory hubs on a daily driver 2008 Chevy Equinox front wheel drive back in 2017 with Detroit Axle Hubs. Also replaced the rear hubs with Detroit Axle two years ago. So far, the hubs are showing no sign of failure. The correct torque setting for the big nut on the front hubs or rear hubs with all wheel drive is very important for longevity of the bearings. So, for me, Detroit Axle hubs for the price, are a good product.
Some get lucky. One side was fine when I sold the car. But as far as installation goes, the axle nut not being torque right would in danger the life of the driver. But the issue with this hub isn't installation it's the bearing in the hub. The hub should be able to spin with no noise. A loose axle nut would result in a wheel completely coming off the vehicle. That's why there is a pin. But trust me, that would be a different type of noise, lol.
I put 2 on a 2008 dodge ram 2 wheel drive about 3yrs 30 thousand plus miles ago. They don't howl or grind and seem to be ok. Sometimes I do get a vibration in the front end Sometimes But guess it could be other components it does have 261000 miles
My DetroitAxle front wheel bearings on my 2010 RAV4 I installed over 4 years ago, now has 20K miles. It has been grinding the past 6 months. I haven't replaced it yet, since we just drive it only around 500miles/month since the pandemic. I am leaning on ACDelco brand but I can't find one for my RAV4. Maybe I should just go with OEM, but boy, even the stock one only lasted me 80K miles, mostly freeway driving only.
Haven’t had any issues out of my Detroit front end kit, on a 3/4 ton Sierra I abuse frequently pulling loads. There is a torque spec for the axle shaft which is the key to a long service life. “ too tight is not alright”
You can try some timken hub/bearings, I just installed some on my truck after the factory ones wore out @ 200000 km I am told the factory ones were also made by timken, they look like they are pretty solid
Bought 2 moog hub assemblies for silverado 1500. Been on truck since feb 2021. One is failing now. Been making noise since august. So even so called good brand parts fail.
I agree. Too many reviews that do not actually test the product. I bought some ebay hubs with 10 year warranty from AM Auto 3 years ago and put 23k miles on them. I recently posted a review on that listing stating just that. Nothing more, just that they have lasted 23k miles. I actually pulled the rear wheels off to check for play in the bearings/hub. So far, so good... The oem right wheel bearing lasted only ~58k miles. Nissan Altima. Nissan quality is not what it used to be imo.
I bought wheel hub for 2500 HD one lasted the quarter mile the other one when I said 6 miles but I did write them on Facebook and they sent a new pair no questions asked
Was a diesel mechanic for 17 years - I got parts from detroit axle (sway bar links - trash, the pressure shafts are much smaller then OEM and loosen up every week or so) Ball Joints - trash - they lasted less then 6 months, then they were worse then then ones they replaced. I still have the hubs and wouldnt put them on anything that some one might drive down the road. The only reason he hasnt had brake issues is the certification to manufacture/sale brake parts in the US much tougher Vs the trash suspension parts. PS every tool I own came from Snap-on, MAC, Matco and a couple from Cornwell.
I'd be willing to bet the guy that made this video did not use a torque wrench when he tighten down the axle onto the hub and he over tightened it by using an impact wrench instead of a torque wrench, which probably messed up the bearing. That could be wrong but I'm almost sure I'm right
Was a diesel mechanic for 17 years - I got parts from detroit axle (sway bar links - trash, the pressure shafts are much smaller then OEM and loosen up every week or so) Ball Joints - trash - they lasted less then 6 months, then they were worse then then ones they replaced. I still have the hubs and wouldnt put them on anything that some one might drive down the road. The only reason he hasnt had brake issues is the certification to manufacture/sale brake parts in the US much tougher Vs the trash suspension parts. PS every tool I own came from Snap-on, MAC, Matco and a couple from Cornwell. If it maters all of my torque wrenches came from MAC
people talking about torque, i wonder what percentage use it on jobs like this. Some dont give a crap. I suspect tire places would rather have to tight than loose which is going to have some type of effect. Many places dont seem to care or at least with suspension parts, so your dammed if you do and dammed if you dont. I do agree that these specifications should be used, but places we think are using or doing it right are not. If I have to stand over and watch im gonna try and do it myself
I have a set of Detroit Axle hubs and CV Axles on my Hummer. I have over 70k miles on them with no issues, I'm going to say you got a defective part, or it was over torqued or installed wrong.
Only can install one way. You can't mess it up. Over torqued probably wouldn't hurt anything. Mayne under torqued would be a big issue. Most of the parts are defective. If they weren't, they would be the number one company in the world with prices. If it's too good to be true, it normally is.
Trick tip I do with wheel bearings even if it's OME I take Green Grease why because that's the best grease in the world no comparison and I take the Abs sensor wire off spin the hub and cake the inside with the best grease on the planet. Let me tell you! Dead Silence!
I will try this next time. Something is causing some shake with my Ford Flex on highway. Idk what it is someone changed my breaks and 3 days later the caliber scratched my brand new wheels. The left out the bolts lmfao so I’m wondering if they messed anything else up. I wanted to do it myself but a friend needed to make some money. Or I’m wondering if it’s the hubs.
Good thought - I still have the Detroit Axle hubs I got last year(after having every other part I got from them fail from 1 - 6months, I got Moog hubs and thinned some Hi pressure grease with 85-140 and put a couple of tablespoons in each hub. smooth quite and no leaks( I was worried about leaks)
You can’t expect anything that’s 75% cheaper than normal to be quality. Even the cheaper bearings from part stores aren’t that good. You need to use a quality torque wrench to properly torque the bearing you can’t use an impact gun at all to tighten the big nut it should all be done my hand. Cheaper bearings fail quickly if you do not properly torque them. I get customers all the time buying cheap crap like this and they pay me to install them. Then a few months later they need to do it again and pay labor again. It would have been cheaper to buy a quality bearing from the start.
Media Guy yeah moog was bought out a while ago. They are still decent compared to others. There are some really good aftermarket companies for European vehicles. You absolutely need to torque the wheel bearings or they will fail not matter what brand you use. I’ve had cheap part store bearings last a long time if you torque them properly. Back in the day you could use an impact gun to torque bearings because they were made so well lol
WARNING: Hello I bought a kit for my Silverado and the little silver nuts with the blue nylon are to soft of a metal to use safely on a vehicle. I just used a little 8 inch hand wrench and the nut pulled the threads right out .So I hope nobody uses these nuts and bought better nuts. Somebody could get killed driving down the road with these faulty low grade nuts.
I dont know where u got your hub from man lol. When I got my hub bearing assembly from them on Ebay I got a 10 year warranty and it's been 6 months with mine on and it's been a dream so far.
You got scammed buying eBay crap my friend. It some china crap from over sea saying they are Detroit axle brand. It happens all the time on eBay. I’m pretty sure Detroit axle gives you a lifetime warranty on everything not 3 months. I bet it took like 2 weeks for the stuff to show up at your house after u ordered it. I learned my lesson no car parts from eBay or really anything to be honest.
IMO he under-torqued and the bearing slowly ate itself. Every FWD bearing I've ever done is about 200 ft lbs, and that's quite a bit. I could see an inexperienced person thinking the force they were applying was enough, when they were actually around 40-50 short.
Detroit upper control arm are failing two weeks after installed tie rod ends are failing also and I didn't even use the ball joints in the or the axles just spent 500 on control arms and wheel hubs you get what you pay for Detroit I'll be calling you tomorrow
It OK wheel bearing like any other wheel bearing made to OEM spec cir Ocoee specs. Yeah torque it to the correct specification weather quality torque wrench in you do not have an issue it's a simple wheel bearing we've been making wheel bearings for over a hundred and under the years now probably over 200 years at this point they were on covered wagons before they were on automobiles so come on now just torque the thing correctly and be quiet all right.
If you bought harbor freight tools to install them yourself, that tells me right away your no mechanic and installed them improperly. I've been using Detroit Axle products for over 6 years and not once have I had an issue.
Was a diesel mechanic for 17 years - I got parts from detroit axle (sway bar links - trash, the pressure shafts are much smaller then OEM and loosen up every week or so) Ball Joints - trash - they lasted less then 6 months, then they were worse then then ones they replaced. I still have the hubs and wouldnt put them on anything that some one might drive down the road. The only reason he hasnt had brake issues is the certification to manufacture/sale brake parts in the US much tougher Vs the trash suspension parts. PS every tool I own came from Snap-on, MAC, Matco and a couple from Cornwell.
I've gotten mechanic's tools from HF before(and numerous other manufacturers), been working on cars for almost 30 years. Nothing I have ever fixed has failed, not even once in almost three decades, and I've repaired damn near everything. You know why? Because I never buy bottom of the barrel parts and I do things by the book all the time, every time. I've seen "mechanics" in shops with 5000 dollars worth of tools that couldn't diagnose a drivability issue if you held a gun to their mother's head, yet I've diagnosed them over a phone call. Go figure. Good tools will never make a mechanic any more than what he is, but a good mechanic can turn all the same nuts and bolts with a Pittsburg that you can with a Snap-On, but he's got lunch money to eat somewhere nice.
Before we go trashing less expensive brands as crap think about this one point. This particular bearing needs to be torqued exactly to spec in order to perform it's best and we all know the vast majority of guys, many pros included, don't do this. It's the force between the CV Axle and hub that maintain the proper position of the bearing inside the assembly. Not doing so is like driving your car down the road with the wheel lugs nuts torqued to 20-foot pounds, not going to get too far. Improper installation with lower cost parts is a bad recipe.
What if I were to tell you that not only should that nut be torqued right, but it should also be replaced? What if I told you harbor freight has a nice torque wrench for $30 that any smart person would grab while grabbing everything else needed. When you're working on your own car, you tend to follow the rules. Not to mention, the moog hub is still going strong. I'm just trying to help someone. But I'm just an automotive locksmith, not a mechanic.
I have a theory. I have a 2000 F150 4x4. Popular trucks 1997 to 2004. At 200K miles within 6 months one side then the other failed. 1st side Oreily's $149 other side Detroit Axle. After 2+ years still running just fine. So we'll see. My point? Some vehicles that are super popular a company can't afford to half A$$. 20 years with the only new truck I ever had and prob will ever have. Boomer gen sold out to China companies like Moog Timkin and TRW.I want US made but to buy what they will cost I need a 25 dollar an hour job too Don't ever believe in globalism one-world rhetoric its a first class ticket to WHOMP WHOMP WHOMP!
We'll I decide to go head and use the breaks that I bought from them at same time. They have been holding up for 6 months so far. But maybe its hit and miss with the parts. I just know I didn't wanna change the hub for the 3rd time. So I went with moog and its still driving great.
I work at the call center, it’s stressful to receive 100s of call of customers complaining about their DA parts. Makes it worse since the owner just changed the warranty policy, even if you purchase a 15 piece kit, you are just able to have one part replaced under a onetime replacement within the 10 year frame, the parts are Chinese! That explains the dust on your parts 🇨🇳! Ball joints go bad since the rubber is the cheapest in the market, axles punctured on the rubber boots, defective pressure lines on the rack and pinions and plenty of more sh*t going on! Simply stay away from this company! Yes, the parts are cheap on the website, but do have in mind; cheap becomes expensive !
Thanks for that good information
Sorry thats not from us at Detroit Axle... our studs are not yellow, and my people would have shipped you warranty for free. even if you over torqued the hub. and missed it up.. given you a free warranty even if you mess it up, is better then trying to trash our name. we have 200 people/ families eating from here would ask you to reconsider thanks Mike
Sir I have new brakes and pads in there boxes right now. Why would I lie this wheel hub did come from you guys? I torqued to specifications. I only posted video because I lost time and money.
You wanna refund me on the parts that I have brand new in boxes that I'm scared to use? If So I will respect the company and take down video.
They have a 10 year warranty, this guy is definitely trying to trash the name for no reason. He doesn’t even specify what exactly failed, nor does he even show it. He is just rambling on about his story of a wheel hub assembly and saying to get moog, when moog has gone downhill in quality.
@@tcekamper Your right I took off the hub and replaced it for no reason. I just wanna run this company's name into the dirt. That makes no sense it sounds like you work for them. I have a closet full of new parts I'm scared to use. Nobodys offering a refund. As a business owner if someone was scared to use my product that was brand new in a box. I would refund them.
@@tcekamper Well if moog quality has went down I sure can't tell. My car rides nice and quiet now.
Appreciate the heads-up......I was seriously considering buying from them.
I bought a bravex distributor and cap on Amazon ! Left me sitting on the side of the road, called bravex, they said they were sending me a replacement for the bad distributor and cap. Nothing yet! 4 Months! Also used 3 different sets of steering parts from Detroit Axle, had trouble with set up and being warped or too long or shorter than needed. I have a f350, I just got parts for and the castle nuts don’t line up right! Have learned my lesson, I’m going to start using Ford parts for my fords! I’ve lost about 1200 bucks and twice that in time, working the parts on!
I replaced factory hubs on a daily driver 2008 Chevy Equinox front wheel drive back in 2017 with Detroit Axle Hubs. Also replaced the rear hubs with Detroit Axle two years ago. So far, the hubs are showing no sign of failure. The correct torque setting for the big nut on the front hubs or rear hubs with all wheel drive is very important for longevity of the bearings. So, for me, Detroit Axle hubs for the price, are a product.
I bought some detroit axle wheel bearings for my car and is been over a year and is still good
And then you sold the car.
Detroit axle is trash
@@xandervk2371 right lol
Thank you for info! I had a plan to go for cheaper brands like Detroit Axle for my VW Jetta but i guess not worth the headache and redoing a replacement considering labor fee is costly! I wonder what your opinion is about FAG wheel bearing, they manufactured in Slovakia and sold under European brand for German cars.
I still got Detroit axle wheel bearing on my 07 Prius, changed October 2021 and still going April 2022. Let’s see if it lasts a year
Did it last?
Glad I watched this. I bought suspension for a Saturn n it sucks. Keep seeing good reviews on Detroit axle too.
I paid $85 each for my two new Timken hubs for my 2008 Jeep Liberty - good looking stuff, and Timken brand has been around a very long time.,
I got a front drive shaft for a jeep liberty that failed right away. They are sending me another hopefully it will work the second time lol
I replaced factory hubs on a daily driver 2008 Chevy Equinox front wheel drive back in 2017 with Detroit Axle Hubs. Also replaced the rear hubs with Detroit Axle two years ago. So far, the hubs are showing no sign of failure. The correct torque setting for the big nut on the front hubs or rear hubs with all wheel drive is very important for longevity of the bearings. So, for me, Detroit Axle hubs for the price, are a good product.
Some get lucky. One side was fine when I sold the car. But as far as installation goes, the axle nut not being torque right would in danger the life of the driver. But the issue with this hub isn't installation it's the bearing in the hub. The hub should be able to spin with no noise. A loose axle nut would result in a wheel completely coming off the vehicle. That's why there is a pin. But trust me, that would be a different type of noise, lol.
I put 2 on a 2008 dodge ram 2 wheel drive about 3yrs 30 thousand plus miles ago. They don't howl or grind and seem to be ok. Sometimes I do get a vibration in the front end Sometimes But guess it could be other components it does have 261000 miles
My DetroitAxle front wheel bearings on my 2010 RAV4 I installed over 4 years ago, now has 20K miles. It has been grinding the past 6 months. I haven't replaced it yet, since we just drive it only around 500miles/month since the pandemic. I am leaning on ACDelco brand but I can't find one for my RAV4. Maybe I should just go with OEM, but boy, even the stock one only lasted me 80K miles, mostly freeway driving only.
I'm a ac delco fan. What about moog?
Haven’t had any issues out of my Detroit front end kit, on a 3/4 ton Sierra I abuse frequently pulling loads. There is a torque spec for the axle shaft which is the key to a long service life. “ too tight is not alright”
This is a frequent occurrence with ALL bearings. Even Timken has quality control issues.
You can try some timken hub/bearings, I just installed some on my truck after the factory ones wore out @ 200000 km
I am told the factory ones were also made by timken, they look like they are pretty solid
I love Timken too
Bought 2 moog hub assemblies for silverado 1500. Been on truck since feb 2021. One is failing now. Been making noise since august. So even so called good brand parts fail.
All factory parts are good, and they fail, so yes, even acdelco parts fail.
I agree. Too many reviews that do not actually test the product. I bought some ebay hubs with 10 year warranty from AM Auto 3 years ago and put 23k miles on them. I recently posted a review on that listing stating just that. Nothing more, just that they have lasted 23k miles. I actually pulled the rear wheels off to check for play in the bearings/hub. So far, so good... The oem right wheel bearing lasted only ~58k miles. Nissan Altima. Nissan quality is not what it used to be imo.
As a car flipper. this is all I buy :). Fix it n Flip It!
Better ofd with rockauto economy option atleast it will work for a few years
Someone needs to sue them for life endangerment or visit the owner
I bought wheel hub for 2500 HD one lasted the quarter mile the other one when I said 6 miles but I did write them on Facebook and they sent a new pair no questions asked
Why mine last almost 2 & 1/2 years, still junk like their booster shocks and crossing fingers about the front struts? 🤔 🤐
Depends on what u get from them. I been lucky so far.
Same with MOOG junk all the same risk
Had the same problem
Oh shit I bougt tie rods ball joints and stabilizer links.. and buy it over a year now and don't use it yet
Was a diesel mechanic for 17 years - I got parts from detroit axle (sway bar links - trash, the pressure shafts are much smaller then OEM and loosen up every week or so) Ball Joints - trash - they lasted less then 6 months, then they were worse then then ones they replaced. I still have the hubs and wouldnt put them on anything that some one might drive down the road. The only reason he hasnt had brake issues is the certification to manufacture/sale brake parts in the US much tougher Vs the trash suspension parts. PS every tool I own came from Snap-on, MAC, Matco and a couple from Cornwell.
i replace for mi tahoe barieng 5 yers ago syill good
You should try their (Rebuilt)! rack and pinion no leaks just can't get an alignment on it why? Your rack is not good! GEE THANKS!!!😞
I'd be willing to bet the guy that made this video did not use a torque wrench when he tighten down the axle onto the hub and he over tightened it by using an impact wrench instead of a torque wrench, which probably messed up the bearing. That could be wrong but I'm almost sure I'm right
Was a diesel mechanic for 17 years - I got parts from detroit axle (sway bar links - trash, the pressure shafts are much smaller then OEM and loosen up every week or so) Ball Joints - trash - they lasted less then 6 months, then they were worse then then ones they replaced. I still have the hubs and wouldnt put them on anything that some one might drive down the road. The only reason he hasnt had brake issues is the certification to manufacture/sale brake parts in the US much tougher Vs the trash suspension parts. PS every tool I own came from Snap-on, MAC, Matco and a couple from Cornwell. If it maters all of my torque wrenches came from MAC
@@tomr3422 no one gives a fuck if you were a diesel mechanic. Stop copy and pasting the same shit dumb dumb.
@@tomr3422 yes this guy is wrong I torqued to specs. They just suck
people talking about torque, i wonder what percentage use it on jobs like this. Some dont give a crap. I suspect tire places would rather have to tight than loose which is going to have some type of effect. Many places dont seem to care or at least with suspension parts, so your dammed if you do and dammed if you dont. I do agree that these specifications should be used, but places we think are using or doing it right are not. If I have to stand over and watch im gonna try and do it myself
Going on year 3
I have a set of Detroit Axle hubs and CV Axles on my Hummer. I have over 70k miles on them with no issues, I'm going to say you got a defective part, or it was over torqued or installed wrong.
Only can install one way. You can't mess it up. Over torqued probably wouldn't hurt anything. Mayne under torqued would be a big issue. Most of the parts are defective. If they weren't, they would be the number one company in the world with prices. If it's too good to be true, it normally is.
Not gonna cover them but it happens 🤷🏽♂️
I'm dying laughing......WOMP WOMP WOMP WOMP
Trick tip I do with wheel bearings even if it's OME I take Green Grease why because that's the best grease in the world no comparison and I take the Abs sensor wire off spin the hub and cake the inside with the best grease on the planet. Let me tell you! Dead Silence!
I will try this next time. Something is causing some shake with my Ford Flex on highway. Idk what it is someone changed my breaks and 3 days later the caliber scratched my brand new wheels. The left out the bolts lmfao so I’m wondering if they messed anything else up. I wanted to do it myself but a friend needed to make some money. Or I’m wondering if it’s the hubs.
Did you tighten up the lug nuts properly? Could also be cv Axle on its way out.
Good thought - I still have the Detroit Axle hubs I got last year(after having every other part I got from them fail from 1 - 6months, I got Moog hubs and thinned some Hi pressure grease with 85-140 and put a couple of tablespoons in each hub. smooth quite and no leaks( I was worried about leaks)
You can’t expect anything that’s 75% cheaper than normal to be quality. Even the cheaper bearings from part stores aren’t that good. You need to use a quality torque wrench to properly torque the bearing you can’t use an impact gun at all to tighten the big nut it should all be done my hand. Cheaper bearings fail quickly if you do not properly torque them.
I get customers all the time buying cheap crap like this and they pay me to install them. Then a few months later they need to do it again and pay labor again. It would have been cheaper to buy a quality bearing from the start.
Moog used to be the go to aftermarket option but even they went down the toilet, as did Timken. You cant really trust any parts these days except OEM.
Media Guy yeah moog was bought out a while ago. They are still decent compared to others. There are some really good aftermarket companies for European vehicles. You absolutely need to torque the wheel bearings or they will fail not matter what brand you use. I’ve had cheap part store bearings last a long time if you torque them properly. Back in the day you could use an impact gun to torque bearings because they were made so well lol
I did torque the axle but to specifications
Mine went bad
WARNING: Hello I bought a kit for my Silverado and the little silver nuts with the blue nylon are to soft of a metal to use safely on a vehicle. I just used a little 8 inch hand wrench and the nut pulled the threads right out .So I hope nobody uses these nuts and bought better nuts. Somebody could get killed driving down the road with these faulty low grade nuts.
I dont know where u got your hub from man lol. When I got my hub bearing assembly from them on Ebay I got a 10 year warranty and it's been 6 months with mine on and it's been a dream so far.
Good luck on collecting on that 10 year warranty
1 out of 5 products are a dud.
You got scammed buying eBay crap my friend. It some china crap from over sea saying they are Detroit axle brand. It happens all the time on eBay. I’m pretty sure Detroit axle gives you a lifetime warranty on everything not 3 months. I bet it took like 2 weeks for the stuff to show up at your house after u ordered it. I learned my lesson no car parts from eBay or really anything to be honest.
I put them on my silverado and not even 2000 miles they started squealing, took them of bought better ones. The detroit ones were wrung out already.
2 hub assemblies for 50 bucks, you get what you pay for.
Seriously that's pot metal cheap a single SKF or Timken hub for my Titan is $150 and I think $300 for OEM.
You bought it from EBAY, not Detroit Axle. No telling what was done to it before you got it.
Limited life time warranty that's all.
You probably over torqued the the axle not based off your symptoms a torque wrench isn’t cheap aka snapon Matco Mac for good ones
IMO he under-torqued and the bearing slowly ate itself. Every FWD bearing I've ever done is about 200 ft lbs, and that's quite a bit. I could see an inexperienced person thinking the force they were applying was enough, when they were actually around 40-50 short.
Probably more to do with the install
I was going to say this guy sound the type of men who doesn't know bearing are adjust to specs and not like if they were nuts
I agree
Detroit upper control arm are failing two weeks after installed tie rod ends are failing also and I didn't even use the ball joints in the or the axles just spent 500 on control arms and wheel hubs you get what you pay for Detroit I'll be calling you tomorrow
It OK wheel bearing like any other wheel bearing made to OEM spec cir Ocoee specs. Yeah torque it to the correct specification weather quality torque wrench in you do not have an issue it's a simple wheel bearing we've been making wheel bearings for over a hundred and under the years now probably over 200 years at this point they were on covered wagons before they were on automobiles so come on now just torque the thing correctly and be quiet all right.
If you bought harbor freight tools to install them yourself, that tells me right away your no mechanic and installed them improperly. I've been using Detroit Axle products for over 6 years and not once have I had an issue.
Was a diesel mechanic for 17 years - I got parts from detroit axle (sway bar links - trash, the pressure shafts are much smaller then OEM and loosen up every week or so) Ball Joints - trash - they lasted less then 6 months, then they were worse then then ones they replaced. I still have the hubs and wouldnt put them on anything that some one might drive down the road. The only reason he hasnt had brake issues is the certification to manufacture/sale brake parts in the US much tougher Vs the trash suspension parts. PS every tool I own came from Snap-on, MAC, Matco and a couple from Cornwell.
I've gotten mechanic's tools from HF before(and numerous other manufacturers), been working on cars for almost 30 years. Nothing I have ever fixed has failed, not even once in almost three decades, and I've repaired damn near everything. You know why? Because I never buy bottom of the barrel parts and I do things by the book all the time, every time. I've seen "mechanics" in shops with 5000 dollars worth of tools that couldn't diagnose a drivability issue if you held a gun to their mother's head, yet I've diagnosed them over a phone call. Go figure. Good tools will never make a mechanic any more than what he is, but a good mechanic can turn all the same nuts and bolts with a Pittsburg that you can with a Snap-On, but he's got lunch money to eat somewhere nice.
A bad Craftsman blames his tools
Straight from china
Never go cheap on car parts unless you’re going to sell. Don’t play with your life like that! Buy OEM or premium parts.
So it's cool to buy junk to risk someone else's life?😊
Buy cheap get cheap
I suspect ebay is made in china.
Before we go trashing less expensive brands as crap think about this one point. This particular bearing needs to be torqued exactly to spec in order to perform it's best and we all know the vast majority of guys, many pros included, don't do this. It's the force between the CV Axle and hub that maintain the proper position of the bearing inside the assembly. Not doing so is like driving your car down the road with the wheel lugs nuts torqued to 20-foot pounds, not going to get too far. Improper installation with lower cost parts is a bad recipe.
What if I were to tell you that not only should that nut be torqued right, but it should also be replaced? What if I told you harbor freight has a nice torque wrench for $30 that any smart person would grab while grabbing everything else needed. When you're working on your own car, you tend to follow the rules. Not to mention, the moog hub is still going strong. I'm just trying to help someone. But I'm just an automotive locksmith, not a mechanic.
I have a theory. I have a 2000 F150 4x4. Popular trucks 1997 to 2004. At 200K miles within 6 months one side then the other failed. 1st side Oreily's $149 other side Detroit Axle. After 2+ years still running just fine. So we'll see. My point? Some vehicles that are super popular a company can't afford to half A$$. 20 years with the only new truck I ever had and prob will ever have. Boomer gen sold out to China companies like Moog Timkin and TRW.I want US made but to buy what they will cost I need a 25 dollar an hour job too Don't ever believe in globalism one-world rhetoric its a first class ticket to WHOMP WHOMP WHOMP!
We'll I decide to go head and use the breaks that I bought from them at same time. They have been holding up for 6 months so far. But maybe its hit and miss with the parts. I just know I didn't wanna change the hub for the 3rd time. So I went with moog and its still driving great.
Detroit Axle totally crap don't buy it never.... totally agree
you probably beat them in , you don't sound like a mechanic to me......
I wouldn’t buy any parts from Detroit axle I have brought brake pads and rotors for my pickup truck and my car and all were their parts and junk
Seriously dude stop playing with the bag HAHA its not a fidget spinner.
Two hubs for $50 should have been your first clue! Use only MOOG bearings!
don't buy used bearings.
Detroit axle is bad ofcourse.. everybody says that. You should have researched first..
This is the research lol