WOW - that thing could go directly to a Tractor Pull! Great to see an Ag family working together to try and preserve the tools that grew our Nation. From a Ranching Renner in Wyoming.
Renner Stock Farms.... Congratulations on your "find"!!... a great addition to the "family"!! Just so you know, ALL diesel semis up through to the early 1980s had a Series Parallel Switch that switched the (4 battery) 12V system, over to 24V for the starting circuit on the starters. The cid of the engines did & does Not matter, they All used 24V Delco-Remy starters back then. You Can change your V12 over to a newer "high torque" 12V starter. The CR (Comp. ratio) of the n/a V12 is the same as your n/a V8... at 18.7:1.... as are all the n/a series 71 engines, except for the (long ago) 1 & 2-71 engines. The 12 in your JD, must have some pretty "small" injectors in it... with it not even showing a hint of "soot" when you suddenly opened the throttle on it, wide open (WOT).... possible 55's or even 45's... which would also keep the torque down, so as not to over-stress the 5020's power train... designed limits, though personally... I am not aware, factually... of how much hp & torque the power train for that tractor was engineered to handle with reliability. N60 "green tag" injectors should get it to 390hp with std. timing and 2,100 rpm... max. The 12 "can" be taken up into the 4 digit hp levels.... but, requires knowledge, "tricks" (re; secrets) and some "hand built parts"..... for me, my 4 year degree in Diesel Engine Design & Theory, Specializing in 2 cycle and studying under one of GM Diesels lead R&D engineers (designer of the prototype 71 engine) at GM Diesel..... has helped me to "build" 12's to those kind of power levels.... and even 6-71's into the 500 to 600hp range with great reliability & longevity. The turbcharged versions are 17.0:1 (with Cross-head style pistons) as I'm sure you're aware. One of the "Must - Do NOT Do's" for longevity of any of the 2 cycle Detroit Diesel.... is to NOT let them IDLE for more than a few minutes after working hard for the N/A's, and No longer than necessary on the "T" engines.. just enough to let the turbo(s) cool down immediately after they've been working hard.... building boost under load. Two of the Must DO's... is to Keep the top end (rack, valve bridges, governor), tuned to specs and injectors correctly timed (height settings)... and NEVER let the blower drive-end seals start leaking oil (internally) and blowing it into the airbox... thereby "coking" the intake ports. I always removed and re-sealed the blowers on my 12's, every 100 - 120K miles...or, once a year as Preventative maintenance.... and put well over a million miles on each of them without having to re-build or send them out for re-man (a MUCH better option than a "rebuild"). I'm sure your also well aware by now with your other two 8-71's that you NEVER use Anything but a 40wgt Low Ash spec oil in them, unless your running them in Cold winter temps, under 32 degrees... then the same Low Ash spec oil in 30wgt... again, as long as the temps are at 32 or lower. I've know many who have used Straight 40 wgt.... but, Not LOW ASH..... to the detriment of their engines. Would be Great if you could get a 6-110 n/a or T (660cid - 5 x 5.6 B&S / 18.0:1cr) to convert into another 2050... Now THAT, would bring you some attention.... a "T" version, conservatively at 349hp will yield as much torque as a 12-71 with N55 or N60 injectors... and of course you can go larger on the injectors. The 6-110 and Series 149 engines use the same injector housings, which are NOT compatible with the Series 53, 71 or 92 heads, just so you know. They are Longer in length on the injector cup housing, then the other 4 series (including the 51). Word of caution if you ever do look for a 6-110... and IF you find an early one (1945 - late 1954) which is Centrifugally aspirated... do NOT bring it home, unless it is running well, and you will NEVER run the engine over 2,000 rpm (2100, absolute maximum, and not 5 rpm over that!). The compressor turbine was over-driven at 33% and due to the materials available at the time to make them, they would Not tolerate ANY engine speed over 2100, Absolute Maximum... or else they would "grenade" the turbine and parts would go into the engine (cylinders)... and they had a sufficiently enough of them that did so... mostly in Mining Haul trucks on down-grades, that they redesigned the block to except a roots blower... which they all were (roots blower, scavenged) from 1955 until they ended production in late 1965. Tens of thousands of them were produced, and used exclusively in the famous "RDC's" (self propelled - Budd Rail Diesel Cars) or "Budd Liners" of the 1940s - 1970s and even later (lots, still in service on "tourist lines"), they were the lead power on the big Euclid TS-24 scrapers (earth movers / "buggies"), with 6-71T pushers in the rear, 50 to 75 ton Euclid mining trucks, drag-lines and other heavy equipment, Many Thousands were used and highly revered in marine applications, especially... as well as gensets, etc, etc. The Budd RDC's utilized Two, 6-110NA's for each RDC... One for each "truck" at each end of the "car", and were rated at 275hp each. The 6-110T was not available until after the roots scavenged block went into production in 1955. Sadly the only thing that kept them out of the OTR truck market... was their weight - at least during the time era they were in production. If GMD / DD had hung on to the mid 1970s that issue would have become null & void, up against the Cat 3408 and the Cummins KT/KTA series, as the 6-110T weighs in at 4,000+ lbs.... DRY wgt. The Major single reason that the 6-110 did not make it into production as power for heavy duty highway trucks (semis)... was the centrifugal blower, "grenading" at even the slightest amount of crank speed over 2100.... as witnessed in Mining trucks of the era, as well as the single 1950, modified GMC 950 (dubbed 954) that went on lease to PIE on their mountain division for evaluation. The block was redesigned to accept roots blower scavenging, beginning with the 1955 production models... the highway truck's drivetrain, also had "issue's" with being able to stay together under the 6-110's torque output. The bottom end of the 6-110's were Massively "over-built" in the block webbing, bearing supports and the bearing themselves.... enough to handle outputs of over 800hp, as proven in GM Diesels own Dynamometer test cells under full load for over two weeks straight. It's a real shame that GMD decided to drop the 6-110.... and in doing so, they completely misread the needs of the Over The Road Trucking industry's growing needs for hp and torque.... and the ability to "hold" that torque in the grades.. which the 6-110 could, due to it's higher internal inertia (higher piston speed), thanks to its longer "usable" power stroke travel, compared to the series 71, and even the later series 92 engine platforms. The series 71 and 92 engines developed the hp & torque... however, they were not able to "hold" it for as long in hard pulls compared to the turbocharged 4 cycles (Cat, Cummins, Buda, AC, etc)... due to their Very short "usable" power stroke travel before the scavenging sequence began, as well as the relatively short (compared to the much longer stroked 4 cycles) and much slower piston speed (less internal inertia) per rpm (as well as, much less reciprocating "mass"), due to the short "total" stroke length of only 5" for the Series 71 engines. Have you ever thought of a 6-71T, TA or TiB conversion in a 2050? Don't think they have enough power??.... 450 - 500hp from a 6-71 platform is Very Doable... and with reliable longevity! Marine 6-71TiB's with ratings of 465 & 485 hp ratings were (& still are) commonplace in the "sport boat" & small yacht sectors of boating as well as some fishing boats. I built a 6-71TA back in the 1980s, for a good friend of mine who was an Independent Owner/Operator and owned a Long nose GMC (7500 series?)... and it dyno'd at 492 hp at the wheels on a chassis dyno, in direct (had a Fuller/RR - 13 dbl od) at 2,250 rpms, and factoring in, approximately 6 - 8% total frictional hp loss between engine accessories and drive-line losses, would equate to approximately 520 - 531+ flywheel hp. He put over 760K miles on it with no issues, before he had to retire due to personal health issues.... but he drove it and faithfully maintained it as I suggested to him to do, for longevity, reliability and continued performance. I happen to know of a rancher over in Australia, who has a very nice JD "2050"..... with a 16-71(NA) in it!! It's very conservative with "little" N55 injectors, to help keep the power low enough so as not to break too many parts. He does Not "work it" on his land... it's only for show at AG Shows, occasional Sled Pulls, etc, etc. Oops!!, my apology for the "book"... my favorite subject got away on me. Will be watching for you's at Rantoul.... have Fun with your new "toy"! : ) PS: I'm NOT a "mechanic"... but, I do hold a 4 year degree in Diesel Engine Design & Theory, and specialized in 2 cycle diesels (especially GM Diesels), during the mid 1960s (1963 - 1967), also attended one of GM Diesels Training centers just to get some "hands on" perspective from the mechanics view of them. I was also very fortunate to have been personally "mentored" (1964 - 1967) by Mr. P. Nicholas, who retired from R&D at GMD (DD after mid 1965) and who was one of the lead designers of the very first prototype GM Diesel engine.. which was a 4-71.
A farmer in New Jersey has a couple 5010's and 5020's with Detroit Diesels in them including two 12V71's and a couple of 8V71's. A very neat and unusual combination for sure.
I love the sounds of the V-series Detroits ! Years ago, I used to drive an International cab-over, with a 12-71 in it . Nothin' but sweet noises, and a lot of oil, came out of that beast.
@@dannaumann9758 How much 2 stroke oil did you go though with your 8v71. 2 stroke detroits are semi total loss lubrication. i got a silver 8v92 out back.
Those detroit 2 strokes have high alloy metallurgy and i just get soft junk in my OMC 528CC wankle 2 stroke cheap rotary which does not load the bearings as much even if i tuned it to 8 hp per CID i cannot get the low end torque of a 2 stroke! why is that? My 8v92 silver 2 stroke turbo rods an crank are chrome, nickle moly and a touch of vanadium and are very hard like tool steel, my rotary sled motor is made od much softer steel as the 2 stroke make more power and required lees oil and runs under higher peak loads i guess.
You are lucky to have your gramps. We live in an insane period. The GOOD LIFE is being buried. What is happiness? Working with your family in the environment of a family farm. ITS BLOODY HARD WORK not for everyone. But you get up with the chickens, work on these fabulous machines, smell the cut hay, deal with the corn. I can go on. And don't forget those damn black cows..... they are awesome!!!! Whats left of my family are weiners who sued me to sell the ranch. I am trying to snag a 100 ac in another state. Downsizing for sure but I will die this life style. Keep up the deere work. My tractor is currently a diesel allis. Will need to due for now. But I am always on the look out for a 4020 or 5020.
What a find! Only 56 days to Rantoul don’t get too deep where you can’t get it there. All of the cosmetic changes you pointed out will make it shine a little better. Looking forward to seeing you and the tractors at Rantoul. Farmer Ken
TOTALLY AWESOME TRACTOR! THANKS SO VERY MUCH FOR SHARING THAT WITH US! ABSOLUTELY LOVE THE SOUND OF THOSE DETROIT DIESEL ENGINES! THEY TURN DIESEL FUEL INTO HEAT,NOISE, AND POWER!
I have to say your Grapmps is really awesome. I saw his Machinery Pete interview and collection tour. This is going to be so cool. Looking forward to watching this come together.
Them 2 stroke detroit are made out of some high alloy steel for the rods and crankshaft to take the constant loading. i heard is n13 nickle,chrome moly steel carberized/nitrided. the crankshaft is heat treated and cryogenic cooled! my 8v92 silver turbo has god know what in it.
I'd like to put a Cummins 903 in the 1972 1020 that was passed down from my grandfather. That ole 3 cylinder won't pull our larger disks but I know that 903 wouldn't complain one bit.
When the 12v 71 is in a R35 Euclid Rock truck it has a radiator the size of a pickup bed there is no way you could work this tracker hard in the field you would melt the engine right out of the frame
Check Grandpa out driving that big truck that's going to be really nice when you guys do what all you want to do it sounds pretty healthy those tires will look great on there you guys stay safe and have a good one hope to see y'all around😎💚🤙🏽🤙🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👊🏼👊🏼
@@kevincasady8992.... I'm 72+ years old, 4 year degree in Two Cycle Diesel Design from the 1960s, have been involved with Detroit Diesels (from stock to Highly modified) all my life.... and have yet to see a "yellow stripe 105 injector"..... would you care to "enlighten" me on these??
@@Romans--bo7br I was told the yellow stripe was just a paint mark a injector builder put on them after they were tested. They were supposed to be the hotrod trucker injectors back in the 70's, knew a couple guys who said they ran them, they were not anything factory though, built by a little shop in Nebraska if I remember correctly.
Those are some awesome cool tractors. I would love to be able to restore the old tractors. I have a 3040 John Deere. But I can't afford to put all the money in it it would take to make it look new again. So I just use it like it is. Still a great tractor though.
I'm so glad you take the time to film and show the world these awesome machines. I would love to see these in action. This show that you talked about, is that open to the public? City guys and gals would like to know.
Not sure that your starter weight is welded together. I have never seen it on partsbook, but it appears on 1969 Deere 5020 promotional movie and I have the same double starter weight. I am looking at your built . I have gathered all components to do 6030 ps build as well.
All fine and good. I own tractors. I build race cars. I farm, ranch, build stuff. At 65 I know - costly - that one modification creates many issues up and downstream. I have never modified a tractor and never will. But I am very curious of the gizmoness of it. In broad strokes, how do you make the tractor live with more power?
THAT IS SO FRIGGIN AWESOME!!!!!! I LOVE THAT THING!!!! I really hope you just set up a camera so we can watch this project!!! That thing is so awesome. I can’t friggin wait to see that thing pulling a bottom plow!!!
Nothing wrong with bondo just needs to be used properly. I would get the hood and rear fenders wet blasted then bodyworked. If definitely get rid of that orange lettering them Freightliner emblems and them awfull lights on them air cleaners. I'd also go with green air cleaners but definitely a nice project but year get rid of that pearl in that paint it's yucky. It'll be nice when you guys are done .
Where do y’all buy replacement fenders and other sheet metal. My dad is restoring an old 820 right now and the hood, grill assembly, and fenders are garbage.
🤣 Without muffles, You know nobody ever used it seriously or they'd be doing this in sign language. It's awesome 👍 is this a kinze deal or someones home brew?
Awesome tractor . It sounds like a rocket , how fast will it be in top gear ? I'm looking forward to the updates on this rebuild . I love all your tractors. Do you only have a John Deere collection ? Have you ever tried looking for an International 4100 or a 4300 ?
It won’t be any faster in top gear, the Detroit sounds like it’s about to send parts out the side but it’s only turning 2500 rpm at the most. Our collection is pretty diverse, and I believe he actually bought a 4100 we just haven’t picked it up yet
@@RennerStockFarms Thanks , My boss put a 6 v 53 Detroit in his grain trucks in the late '70s . Yep they were loud the one I drove most had twin stakes between the cab and the bed . The other truck was a Ford 700 gas that we also installed the 6v53 in .. I found out the hard way that 3000 rpm was too much I think I cracked both heads . It handles a 550 bushel load than a 200 bushel load . Thanks again for all your videos & time it takes to edit them ..
@@kennethcarlton2860.... is your 6-53 n/a or "T"? What was the Original application of the 6-53's?... what did they come out of? If the heads cracked on your 6-53, it was "possibly" more as a result of sustained 190 / 200 degree engine temps..... NOT 3000 rpm, although 3000 rpm is, about the limit for the 6-63.. in "stock" form. The Series 53 (and 71) are "capable" of well over 3000 rpm..... "IF" you set them up correctly to do it.... there are certain parts that need to be changed in the valve train and governor, for them to "live" at higher rev limits. Personally, when it comes to the 6-53, I would keep at around 2,850 max, just to be safe. The 3 & 4-53's (stock) can go to about 3200... 3300 is really "pushing it".... but again, the Series 53 is capable of much higher levels, but unless you Really know what you're doing, and what parts you need, as well as how to properly set up the rack and governor settings, and in the correct sequence (even for "stock" settings!)..... I wouldn't advise it, unless you want parts scattered all over the place. Where did the heads "Crack"?..... between the valve seats or on the exterior of the heads, or ?? Are they 2, or 4 valve heads?
Probably not honestly. Our biggest expense is our time, and to get everything lined up and adapter plates made would be expensive. We are going to do our own repower over the winter
Why would anyone want to destroy a perfectly good tractor by putting that engine in it. Poorest excuse of an engine detroit ever made. All they do is make noise and smoke
That tractors original owner lived just down the road from me
Love the screamin demon
Is this a Kinze conversation? He is a genius.
Nice Sound Oh Yes Sir Work Done Good One To Have
WOW - that thing could go directly to a Tractor Pull!
Great to see an Ag family working together to try and preserve the tools that grew our Nation.
From a Ranching Renner in Wyoming.
Renner Stock Farms.... Congratulations on your "find"!!... a great addition to the "family"!! Just so you know, ALL diesel semis up through to the early 1980s had a Series Parallel Switch that switched the (4 battery) 12V system, over to 24V for the starting circuit on the starters. The cid of the engines did & does Not matter, they All used 24V Delco-Remy starters back then.
You Can change your V12 over to a newer "high torque" 12V starter. The CR (Comp. ratio) of the n/a V12 is the same as your n/a V8... at 18.7:1.... as are all the n/a series 71 engines, except for the (long ago) 1 & 2-71 engines.
The 12 in your JD, must have some pretty "small" injectors in it... with it not even showing a hint of "soot" when you suddenly opened the throttle on it, wide open (WOT).... possible 55's or even 45's... which would also keep the torque down, so as not to over-stress the 5020's power train... designed limits, though personally... I am not aware, factually... of how much hp & torque the power train for that tractor was engineered to handle with reliability. N60 "green tag" injectors should get it to 390hp with std. timing and 2,100 rpm... max.
The 12 "can" be taken up into the 4 digit hp levels.... but, requires knowledge, "tricks" (re; secrets) and some "hand built parts"..... for me, my 4 year degree in Diesel Engine Design & Theory, Specializing in 2 cycle and studying under one of GM Diesels lead R&D engineers (designer of the prototype 71 engine) at GM Diesel..... has helped me to "build" 12's to those kind of power levels.... and even 6-71's into the 500 to 600hp range with great reliability & longevity.
The turbcharged versions are 17.0:1 (with Cross-head style pistons) as I'm sure you're aware. One of the "Must - Do NOT Do's" for longevity of any of the 2 cycle Detroit Diesel.... is to NOT let them IDLE for more than a few minutes after working hard for the N/A's, and No longer than necessary on the "T" engines.. just enough to let the turbo(s) cool down immediately after they've been working hard.... building boost under load.
Two of the Must DO's... is to Keep the top end (rack, valve bridges, governor), tuned to specs and injectors correctly timed (height settings)... and NEVER let the blower drive-end seals start leaking oil (internally) and blowing it into the airbox... thereby "coking" the intake ports. I always removed and re-sealed the blowers on my 12's, every 100 - 120K miles...or, once a year as Preventative maintenance.... and put well over a million miles on each of them without having to re-build or send them out for re-man (a MUCH better option than a "rebuild").
I'm sure your also well aware by now with your other two 8-71's that you NEVER use Anything but a 40wgt Low Ash spec oil in them, unless your running them in Cold winter temps, under 32 degrees... then the same Low Ash spec oil in 30wgt... again, as long as the temps are at 32 or lower. I've know many who have used Straight 40 wgt.... but, Not LOW ASH..... to the detriment of their engines.
Would be Great if you could get a 6-110 n/a or T (660cid - 5 x 5.6 B&S / 18.0:1cr) to convert into another 2050... Now THAT, would bring you some attention.... a "T" version, conservatively at 349hp will yield as much torque as a 12-71 with N55 or N60 injectors... and of course you can go larger on the injectors. The 6-110 and Series 149 engines use the same injector housings, which are NOT compatible with the Series 53, 71 or 92 heads, just so you know. They are Longer in length on the injector cup housing, then the other 4 series (including the 51).
Word of caution if you ever do look for a 6-110... and IF you find an early one (1945 - late 1954) which is Centrifugally aspirated... do NOT bring it home, unless it is running well, and you will NEVER run the engine over 2,000 rpm (2100, absolute maximum, and not 5 rpm over that!).
The compressor turbine was over-driven at 33% and due to the materials available at the time to make them, they would Not tolerate ANY engine speed over 2100, Absolute Maximum... or else they would "grenade" the turbine and parts would go into the engine (cylinders)... and they had a sufficiently enough of them that did so... mostly in Mining Haul trucks on down-grades, that they redesigned the block to except a roots blower... which they all were (roots blower, scavenged) from 1955 until they ended production in late 1965.
Tens of thousands of them were produced, and used exclusively in the famous "RDC's" (self propelled - Budd Rail Diesel Cars) or "Budd Liners" of the 1940s - 1970s and even later (lots, still in service on "tourist lines"), they were the lead power on the big Euclid TS-24 scrapers (earth movers / "buggies"), with 6-71T pushers in the rear, 50 to 75 ton Euclid mining trucks, drag-lines and other heavy equipment, Many Thousands were used and highly revered in marine applications, especially... as well as gensets, etc, etc.
The Budd RDC's utilized Two, 6-110NA's for each RDC... One for each "truck" at each end of the "car", and were rated at 275hp each. The 6-110T was not available until after the roots scavenged block went into production in 1955.
Sadly the only thing that kept them out of the OTR truck market... was their weight - at least during the time era they were in production. If GMD / DD had hung on to the mid 1970s that issue would have become null & void, up against the Cat 3408 and the Cummins KT/KTA series, as the 6-110T weighs in at 4,000+ lbs.... DRY wgt.
The Major single reason that the 6-110 did not make it into production as power for heavy duty highway trucks (semis)... was the centrifugal blower, "grenading" at even the slightest amount of crank speed over 2100.... as witnessed in Mining trucks of the era, as well as the single 1950, modified GMC 950 (dubbed 954) that went on lease to PIE on their mountain division for evaluation. The block was redesigned to accept roots blower scavenging, beginning with the 1955 production models... the highway truck's drivetrain, also had "issue's" with being able to stay together under the 6-110's torque output.
The bottom end of the 6-110's were Massively "over-built" in the block webbing, bearing supports and the bearing themselves.... enough to handle outputs of over 800hp, as proven in GM Diesels own Dynamometer test cells under full load for over two weeks straight. It's a real shame that GMD decided to drop the 6-110.... and in doing so, they completely misread the needs of the Over The Road Trucking industry's growing needs for hp and torque.... and the ability to "hold" that torque in the grades.. which the 6-110 could, due to it's higher internal inertia (higher piston speed), thanks to its longer "usable" power stroke travel, compared to the series 71, and even the later series 92 engine platforms.
The series 71 and 92 engines developed the hp & torque... however, they were not able to "hold" it for as long in hard pulls compared to the turbocharged 4 cycles (Cat, Cummins, Buda, AC, etc)... due to their Very short "usable" power stroke travel before the scavenging sequence began, as well as the relatively short (compared to the much longer stroked 4 cycles) and much slower piston speed (less internal inertia) per rpm (as well as, much less reciprocating "mass"), due to the short "total" stroke length of only 5" for the Series 71 engines.
Have you ever thought of a 6-71T, TA or TiB conversion in a 2050? Don't think they have enough power??.... 450 - 500hp from a 6-71 platform is Very Doable... and with reliable longevity! Marine 6-71TiB's with ratings of 465 & 485 hp ratings were (& still are) commonplace in the "sport boat" & small yacht sectors of boating as well as some fishing boats.
I built a 6-71TA back in the 1980s, for a good friend of mine who was an Independent Owner/Operator and owned a Long nose GMC (7500 series?)... and it dyno'd at 492 hp at the wheels on a chassis dyno, in direct (had a Fuller/RR - 13 dbl od) at 2,250 rpms, and factoring in, approximately 6 - 8% total frictional hp loss between engine accessories and drive-line losses, would equate to approximately 520 - 531+ flywheel hp. He put over 760K miles on it with no issues, before he had to retire due to personal health issues.... but he drove it and faithfully maintained it as I suggested to him to do, for longevity, reliability and continued performance.
I happen to know of a rancher over in Australia, who has a very nice JD "2050"..... with a 16-71(NA) in it!! It's very conservative with "little" N55 injectors, to help keep the power low enough so as not to break too many parts. He does Not "work it" on his land... it's only for show at AG Shows, occasional Sled Pulls, etc, etc.
Oops!!, my apology for the "book"... my favorite subject got away on me. Will be watching for you's at Rantoul.... have Fun with your new "toy"! : )
PS: I'm NOT a "mechanic"... but, I do hold a 4 year degree in Diesel Engine Design & Theory, and specialized in 2 cycle diesels (especially GM Diesels), during the mid 1960s (1963 - 1967), also attended one of GM Diesels Training centers just to get some "hands on" perspective from the mechanics view of them.
I was also very fortunate to have been personally "mentored" (1964 - 1967) by Mr. P. Nicholas, who retired from R&D at GMD (DD after mid 1965) and who was one of the lead designers of the very first prototype GM Diesel engine.. which was a 4-71.
A farmer in New Jersey has a couple 5010's and 5020's with Detroit Diesels in them including two 12V71's and a couple of 8V71's. A very neat and unusual combination for sure.
I love the sounds of the V-series Detroits ! Years ago, I used to drive an International cab-over, with a 12-71 in it . Nothin' but sweet noises, and a lot of oil, came out of that beast.
I drove an 8V71, made more noise than anything. Oil leaker, oh hell yes! Never had to change oil!,
@@dannaumann9758 How much 2 stroke oil did you go though with your 8v71. 2 stroke detroits are semi total loss lubrication. i got a silver 8v92 out back.
Those detroit 2 strokes have high alloy metallurgy and i just get soft junk in my OMC 528CC wankle 2 stroke cheap rotary which does not load the bearings as much even if i tuned it to 8 hp per CID i cannot get the low end torque of a 2 stroke! why is that? My 8v92 silver 2 stroke turbo rods an crank are chrome, nickle moly and a touch of vanadium and are very hard like tool steel, my rotary sled motor is made od much softer steel as the 2 stroke make more power and required lees oil and runs under higher peak loads i guess.
What 2 stroke oil were you using? Be carfule with the synthetics as they burn cleaner
These are total loss oiling engines.
Very nice tractor thanks for the video of John Deere 5020 big Detroit diesel engine
Where did the V8 that John Deere made at Waterloo, Ia. end up. I saw the V8 being made in the foundry at Waterloo, Ia.
Sounds like two transit buses drag racing. In other words - AWESOME!👍
Awright! A buzzin’ dozen!
This tractor should have an alternator on to charge the battery....
Exit on this video was bad ass!
Thanks! I think I’m going to use that one more often
You are lucky to have your gramps. We live in an insane period. The GOOD LIFE is being buried. What is happiness? Working with your family in the environment of a family farm. ITS BLOODY HARD WORK not for everyone. But you get up with the chickens, work on these fabulous machines, smell the cut hay, deal with the corn. I can go on. And don't forget those damn black cows..... they are awesome!!!! Whats left of my family are weiners who sued me to sell the ranch. I am trying to snag a 100 ac in another state. Downsizing for sure but I will die this life style. Keep up the deere work. My tractor is currently a diesel allis. Will need to due for now. But I am always on the look out for a 4020 or 5020.
What a find! Only 56 days to Rantoul don’t get too deep where you can’t get it there. All of the cosmetic changes you pointed out will make it shine a little better. Looking forward to seeing you and the tractors at Rantoul.
Farmer Ken
TOTALLY AWESOME TRACTOR! THANKS SO VERY MUCH FOR SHARING THAT WITH US! ABSOLUTELY LOVE THE SOUND OF THOSE DETROIT DIESEL ENGINES! THEY TURN DIESEL FUEL INTO HEAT,NOISE, AND POWER!
Any 2 stroke sled does that too, Rotax 850 Etec turbo R, Polaris 850 Patroit turbo and Arctic Cats 858 2 strokes jimmies!
I have to say your Grapmps is really awesome. I saw his Machinery Pete interview and collection tour.
This is going to be so cool. Looking forward to watching this come together.
What a badass fleet
Sweet!
I want one!👍
That sounds great. I always liked the sounds of the Detroit Diesel 2 strokes. The buzzin dozen in a tractor is crazy!
Them 2 stroke detroit are made out of some high alloy steel for the rods and crankshaft to take the constant loading. i heard is n13 nickle,chrome moly steel carberized/nitrided. the crankshaft is heat treated and cryogenic cooled! my 8v92 silver turbo has god know what in it.
Listen to that na 12-71 purr music to my ears
that is one awsome sounding tractor
John Deere and Detroit diesel excellent combination!
Haven't watched you guys for a while. The 5020 is great sounds beautiful I will have to keep watching
Can’t wait to see this in person
Motor sounds great !
I'd like to put a Cummins 903 in the 1972 1020 that was passed down from my grandfather. That ole 3 cylinder won't pull our larger disks but I know that 903 wouldn't complain one bit.
Don’t do it you’ll bust the rear end they where bad about doing it from the factory that Cummins would demolish it
Can't wait to see that thing with a big plow going down the field.
Sounds like a great plan can't wait to see it finished
Kinda like the bass boat Green!
That’s one awesome repower. Can’t wait to see it done. Evansville is only an hour away from me.
Great video thank you
That’s Awesome !!!!!🤩
Please leave the metal flake hahaha. What a unit. Just needs different front rubber
Absolute monster
That Detroit diesel sounds good!
When the 12v 71 is in a R35 Euclid Rock truck it has a radiator the size of a pickup bed there is no way you could work this tracker hard in the field you would melt the engine right out of the frame
Using that same logic, you could never work this tractor as hard as that rock truck, therefore you wouldn’t need a ginormous radiator.
Check Grandpa out driving that big truck that's going to be really nice when you guys do what all you want to do it sounds pretty healthy those tires will look great on there you guys stay safe and have a good one hope to see y'all around😎💚🤙🏽🤙🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👊🏼👊🏼
Davey wills ol 5020 he pulled that tractor every year in the county fair
Sounds awesome
Hermosos motores y el sonido que se escucha yo tengo uno aquí en Michoacán México en L Cárdenas en un volquete 1962 gracias gringos x el invento
Need somebody like me around. I'd have that body and paint work perfect, and not just by shaping body filler.
Can’t wait for Rantoul!
Me either, counting down the days!
the 5020 is probably the only gear train that will handle the 12-71 plenty of parts around to keep it going for years
And a deaf farmer is born.
Bad ass!!!!!
Hey let’s get that on a dyno! Those 12-71’s are good for 400-450 at the flywheel, could be interesting. Muscle Tractor Madness, dig it!
Two or three windmills and yellow stripe 105 injectors...650 to 700+ on the hp! Would need a fuel truck every two rounds though!
@@kevincasady8992.... I'm 72+ years old, 4 year degree in Two Cycle Diesel Design from the 1960s, have been involved with Detroit Diesels (from stock to Highly modified) all my life.... and have yet to see a "yellow stripe 105 injector"..... would you care to "enlighten" me on these??
@@Romans--bo7br I was told the yellow stripe was just a paint mark a injector builder put on them after they were tested. They were supposed to be the hotrod trucker injectors back in the 70's, knew a couple guys who said they ran them, they were not anything factory though, built by a little shop in Nebraska if I remember correctly.
john deere king tractors
Great tractors- looking forward to how the new one turns out.
Could you give a video tour on the rebuilt barn sometime?
Absolutely, that video is coming out next week!
Those are some awesome cool tractors. I would love to be able to restore the old tractors. I have a 3040 John Deere. But I can't afford to put all the money in it it would take to make it look new again. So I just use it like it is. Still a great tractor though.
Why swap to a power shift?
I bet they're nabers in a 20mile radious love them 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😎
I'm so glad you take the time to film and show the world these awesome machines. I would love to see these in action. This show that you talked about, is that open to the public? City guys and gals would like to know.
The Half Century of Progress Show in Rantoul, Illinois, it is open to the public. I highly recommend this show if you can make it. It is august 26-29
Awesome
Would love to hear it howl pulling a 14 bottom plow.
I agree the paint has to go!! Needs the Big tires on the front as well!
They came in yesterday 👍🏽
With 852 cubes under the hood it could Pull One "State" to another.
ive come to the conclusion you guys are trying to collect all of the kinze repowers with detroits lol.
The John Deere 5020 was offered from 1965 to 1971
Not a big fan of that sparkly paint either! Quite the machine!
I take it the rooster has been fired.
Cool but I also think those air filter housings are ugly hanging off the side but that's just me
Not sure that your starter weight is welded together. I have never seen it on partsbook, but it appears on 1969 Deere 5020 promotional movie and I have the same double starter weight.
I am looking at your built . I have gathered all components to do 6030 ps build as well.
Double starter weights are real, but this one is clearly two regular weights welded together
Do you have a series on the kinzie repowers I asked on tiktok figured this is a better platform to find that on
Not a series, but there are a couple videos on here of the ones we have
just dont let the rack get stuck lol
All fine and good. I own tractors. I build race cars. I farm, ranch, build stuff. At 65 I know - costly - that one modification creates many issues up and downstream. I have never modified a tractor and never will. But I am very curious of the gizmoness of it. In broad strokes, how do you make the tractor live with more power?
THAT IS SO FRIGGIN AWESOME!!!!!! I LOVE THAT THING!!!! I really hope you just set up a camera so we can watch this project!!! That thing is so awesome. I can’t friggin wait to see that thing pulling a bottom plow!!!
Driving that without hearing protection? Hope you don't mind going deaf 🤣
Huh?
I agree I dont like the metal flake either
Nothing wrong with bondo just needs to be used properly. I would get the hood and rear fenders wet blasted then bodyworked. If definitely get rid of that orange lettering them Freightliner emblems and them awfull lights on them air cleaners. I'd also go with green air cleaners but definitely a nice project but year get rid of that pearl in that paint it's yucky. It'll be nice when you guys are done .
Congrats on 10k. Road to 100. Nice video
Thanks Colton!
I seen that tractor for sale in Ohio auto & RV
my ears are still ringing from 50 tears ago no thanks
Yep maybe a nice Cat….
1100 lsw at the back
Where do y’all buy replacement fenders and other sheet metal. My dad is restoring an old 820 right now and the hood, grill assembly, and fenders are garbage.
🤣 Without muffles, You know nobody ever used it seriously or they'd be doing this in sign language. It's awesome 👍 is this a kinze deal or someones home brew?
And Yes, you can get a small gear reduction 12v starter off eBay from DB Electric that will start it all day off one battery
Wow. The dude had one with a 16v71!? How would he fit that in there!?
With no room for a radiator or fuel tank! I am not sure how he is going to finish it lol
Matching Bullhauler turnouts...
Did you buy Dave Will’s 5020?
Awesome tractor . It sounds like a rocket , how fast will it be in top gear ?
I'm looking forward to the updates on this rebuild . I love all your tractors.
Do you only have a John Deere collection ? Have you ever tried looking for an International 4100 or a 4300 ?
It won’t be any faster in top gear, the Detroit sounds like it’s about to send parts out the side but it’s only turning 2500 rpm at the most. Our collection is pretty diverse, and I believe he actually bought a 4100 we just haven’t picked it up yet
@@RennerStockFarms Thanks , My boss put a 6 v 53 Detroit in his grain trucks in the late '70s . Yep they were loud the one I drove most had twin stakes between the cab and the bed . The other truck was a Ford 700 gas that we also installed the 6v53 in .. I found out the hard way that 3000
rpm was too much I think I cracked both heads . It handles a
550 bushel load than a 200 bushel load . Thanks again for all your videos & time it takes to edit them ..
@@kennethcarlton2860.... is your 6-53 n/a or "T"? What was the Original application of the 6-53's?... what did they come out of? If the heads cracked on your 6-53, it was "possibly" more as a result of sustained 190 / 200 degree engine temps..... NOT 3000 rpm, although 3000 rpm is, about the limit for the 6-63.. in "stock" form. The Series 53 (and 71) are "capable" of well over 3000 rpm..... "IF" you set them up correctly to do it.... there are certain parts that need to be changed in the valve train and governor, for them to "live" at higher rev limits. Personally, when it comes to the 6-53, I would keep at around 2,850 max, just to be safe.
The 3 & 4-53's (stock) can go to about 3200... 3300 is really "pushing it".... but again, the Series 53 is capable of much higher levels, but unless you Really know what you're doing, and what parts you need, as well as how to properly set up the rack and governor settings, and in the correct sequence (even for "stock" settings!)..... I wouldn't advise it, unless you want parts scattered all over the place.
Where did the heads "Crack"?..... between the valve seats or on the exterior of the heads, or ?? Are they 2, or 4 valve heads?
Grandpa, I think we all work better under pressure to make it right.
So what was Jake's opinion?
Jake likes it, but is itching to get better frame rails on it!
Why is it so slow
How many horsepower does it have?
Should be about 450
That's a lot!
Just one gear?
He ran it in a couple
What's up with them ugly front tires?
Same thing with the ugly frame rails, he used what he had.
De-crap that tractor!!
I know this machine. Why didn't you bring home Johnzilla...asking for a friend
We never asked if it was for sale, we have enough projects right now lol
@@RennerStockFarms yeah...I'm sure you do. Good luck. You guys will have it tip top in no time. Hope to see them in Rantoul
6 volt
Less talking and more showing you fixing the tractor would be nice. 👍
Watch the other videos
Wouldn’t it have been cheaper just to build your own 12v71 from scratch rather than buy someone else’s garbage and redo it ?
Probably not honestly. Our biggest expense is our time, and to get everything lined up and adapter plates made would be expensive. We are going to do our own repower over the winter
@@RennerStockFarms ok , good luck my friends ….p.s. thx for the response 👍😎
Did you just eat a bugger what
Why would anyone want to destroy a perfectly good tractor by putting that engine in it. Poorest excuse of an engine detroit ever made. All they do is make noise and smoke
@Joe Scheller, and leak oil.🤣🤣