yeah for regen You want a V7 regen torque arm from Grin - amzn.to/3Wf82r6 . I spoke about that in my previous video. It can be pretty dangerous. I have 3 torque arms on my motor right now Lol. But yeah for anyone else reading this. Regen makes your motor axle wiggle back and forth extremely crazy and a normal torque arm doesnt work for that. V7 regen torque arm from grin is the solution !! I still need one.
Regenerative (Regen for short) braking: A motor runs by putting a current through a coil, creating an electromagnet that forces physical magnets to move. When the current stops, the momentum of the bike forces the motor to keep spinning. In that state, the physical magnets creates an electrical current in the coils. That electrical current is fed back to the batteries. However, with the motor still engaged (so that it is forced to keep spinning) there's a resisting force that will slow down the bike over distance. That can be used as a brake. It's similar to the engine brake in big trucks. My bike has regen when the brake is applied. So, I can pull the brake level just enough to trigger the brake sensor and it goes into rengen braking. Regen is good when one is needing to slow down, wither because s/he is coming to a stop point or going down hill where gravity will cause the bike to roll too fast.
@@Legate_Lanius saw that, but 💰💰💰 I’m sure. i have a hard time getting hyped up early about anything in this day and age 😂🤷♂️ Justin seemed stoked about it, i didn’t watch the videos yet. The drag from welding the clutch in my motor didn’t seem to make a giant difference in pedaling? my bike is already like pedaling a tractor. Freegen sounds cool but does it warrant a giant expense I’m not sure. I’ll have to watch those when i get a chance
Grintech is collaborating with the inventor of a Regen system that keeps the free wheel clutch in the motor but adds a clutch on the braking rotors. That allows the brake levers to become Regen brake levers with the harder they're pulled, the more braking. Justin & his partners are trying to start selling the motors with Regen this year. It was just recently that Justin made the big break through announcement. People nowadays seem to drive automatics & not stick shifts that much & have lost the art of downshifting to brake in cars & on motorcycles where the brakes aren't used much except for emergency stops.
Thanks again for trying to spread the usefulness of regen and linking to the Grin Regen vid. But, hey, no one has to use it. Managing the motor shaft rocking back and forth is no joke. I've been watching folks on the endless-sphere site DIY crazy clamp style torque arms for over ten years!
Justin did a video where they red loctite the clutch assembly onto the axle to remove that play, but then you need a heat gun i believe in addition to the gear puller to get the clutch assembly off to repair the planetary gears . But yeah i can feel that play and I’m going to red loctite this B
It would be cool to tweak a throttle sensor and add a small hard point at the mid point location. Then, acceleration or braking areas would be more intuitive
I will be adding regen in the future. I commute over the West hills in Portland. I'm constantly replacing or adjusting my brakes. I have a heavy bike, but I have upgraded the brakes to 220/203mm rotors and four piston calipers in the front. Maintenance-free braking sounds amazing.
Spend money on decent pads and discs 👌🏻 Regen is only good if you can adjust it otherwise it's like throwing an anchor off the side of the bike while lightly braking before a slight corner
@@MaNNeRz91 it can just be from the weight of the bike. Bicycle brake pads don't have much surface area. Compared to like a motorcycle or a car. Most bicycle brake pads really aren't cut out for 30MPH speeds. And we are beginning to see ebikes like ANIIOKI (i think) where they are using giant huge 300mm rotors and 4 piston calipers that aren't traditional bicycle components
@@EBikeBuilder_ agreed but it could also be down to the pad material and even the rotor material. I had high pad wear before I switched to floating discs and sintered pads. I also experienced bad fade before that even with the floating discs before switching to the sintered pads. I do agree massively on the size selection we have being small. I have always said the same as you about the size of the pads being to small for the application and should be closer to pitbike brakes on the bigger. bikes sur ron and upwards. But that's why I tried to find the best combination of disc and pad. I've burnt through a lot of different makes. Cheap and expensive. Until the ones I have now worked better than the rest. Still quite cheap too. Even though I said buy decent pads in my original comment I didn't mean expensive. ✌🏻
Good Vid Bro , I live in a Hilly Area It would Prolly be Good for me , Only Thingy I was wondering about I would loose the Ability too Fee Wheel down hill , Is that Right? or can you still Coast down without much regen , One Day i will Try it 16.08 you answered my Question Thanks ,I never said I wasn"t Impatiant LOL Watch out for them Bees Talking about Brake Pads Ive got too relpace my back set Last Week they Don't work no more
yeah, I have drilled 6 giant holes in each side of my G62 motor, due to the increased workload of regen, where the motor no longer has a chance to "rest" when you are coasting. But you should be able to either adjust the regen braking current, so its not braking as hard, maybe that would help with the heat?? Is it a QS205? I hear those can get quite hot. and if you want regen something like a QS273 might be more effective. You should be able to configure the regen and monitor temperatures of the motor in such a way where it shouldn't overheat or damage the motor. Vesc has a feature called Temperature Compensation where it starts to throttle your power early so that you still have some 'temperature' buffer remaining and regen braking force available. But yeah if no temp sensor I would be careful. Also gotta make sure regen charging voltage and current isnt too much for the battery cells and bms etc
@@rufusirvin5279 Yes! Another vote for Statorade and cooling fins on a Direct Drive motor. Most folks watching this know that Statorade not effective for geared hub motors (like the motor EBikeBuilder is using here).
@rufusirvin5279 It's a 72v 5k 3t hub motor on 26x4. No cooling fins or statorade yet. I'm running with a sabvoton 72100 at maxed out settings for now. The battery is 72v 60a beast. I've already blown up a controller and a motor with this batt 😎 Running regen off the throttle or the handbrake at 33a was awesome indeed. One ride i did 35 miles of bike path with regen on and when i got home the motor was on the verge of going up in flames. Don't think that level of heat my motor was at is safe.
@@KingKola_ good point if true, is that because of a diode or some other electrical component in the battery combiner that doesn’t support a reverse current flow?
@@lukenorton8243 There’s different types of hub motors. Direct drive hub motors can do Regen. And geared hub motors which are commonly found on most EBikes cannot do Regen because there’s a one way clutch inside of them that allows them to freewheel and coast, but does not allow regen braking. I’ve welded the clutch assembly in my bafang geared hub motor , and I’m using a controller that supports Regen. To know if you have a geared hub motor, its a matter of identifying the motor. Bafang are geared hubs, most e-bikes are
@@EBikeBuilder_ ok thanks ya I figured due to my having gears and clearly no regen must be geared I’ve seen people welding the clutch Was that hard. Guess you have to open it up
Im watching this video, 10 min in im so confused what you're talking about xD My man you start a sentence, within that sentence you start 5 different sentences, which seem to have their own subtopic xD. Worst part is, you seem to forget the first one, so you never actually finish that train of thought. Is hard to watch but still somehow entertaining thogh^^
Remember that you probably need to also modify your torque arm if you do regen. Grin has a video on that.
yeah for regen You want a V7 regen torque arm from Grin - amzn.to/3Wf82r6 . I spoke about that in my previous video. It can be pretty dangerous. I have 3 torque arms on my motor right now Lol. But yeah for anyone else reading this. Regen makes your motor axle wiggle back and forth extremely crazy and a normal torque arm doesnt work for that. V7 regen torque arm from grin is the solution !! I still need one.
Regenerative (Regen for short) braking:
A motor runs by putting a current through a coil, creating an electromagnet that forces physical magnets to move.
When the current stops, the momentum of the bike forces the motor to keep spinning.
In that state, the physical magnets creates an electrical current in the coils. That electrical current is fed back to the batteries.
However, with the motor still engaged (so that it is forced to keep spinning) there's a resisting force that will slow down the bike over distance. That can be used as a brake.
It's similar to the engine brake in big trucks.
My bike has regen when the brake is applied. So, I can pull the brake level just enough to trigger the brake sensor and it goes into rengen braking.
Regen is good when one is needing to slow down, wither because s/he is coming to a stop point or going down hill where gravity will cause the bike to roll too fast.
I will add regen with grin's Freegen tech when it will be available. That's some next level clever stuff
@@Legate_Lanius saw that, but 💰💰💰 I’m sure. i have a hard time getting hyped up early about anything in this day and age 😂🤷♂️ Justin seemed stoked about it, i didn’t watch the videos yet. The drag from welding the clutch in my motor didn’t seem to make a giant difference in pedaling? my bike is already like pedaling a tractor. Freegen sounds cool but does it warrant a giant expense I’m not sure. I’ll have to watch those when i get a chance
Grintech is collaborating with the inventor of a Regen system that keeps the free wheel clutch in the motor but adds a clutch on the braking rotors. That allows the brake levers to become Regen brake levers with the harder they're pulled, the more braking. Justin & his partners are trying to start selling the motors with Regen this year. It was just recently that Justin made the big break through announcement. People nowadays seem to drive automatics & not stick shifts that much & have lost the art of downshifting to brake in cars & on motorcycles where the brakes aren't used much except for emergency stops.
Thanks again for trying to spread the usefulness of regen and linking to the Grin Regen vid. But, hey, no one has to use it. Managing the motor shaft rocking back and forth is no joke. I've been watching folks on the endless-sphere site DIY crazy clamp style torque arms for over ten years!
Justin did a video where they red loctite the clutch assembly onto the axle to remove that play, but then you need a heat gun i believe in addition to the gear puller to get the clutch assembly off to repair the planetary gears . But yeah i can feel that play and I’m going to red loctite this B
It would be cool to tweak a throttle sensor and add a small hard point at the mid point location. Then, acceleration or braking areas would be more intuitive
itd be kinda cool if not sitting on seat was what shut regen off for easier coasting
I will be adding regen in the future. I commute over the West hills in Portland. I'm constantly replacing or adjusting my brakes. I have a heavy bike, but I have upgraded the brakes to 220/203mm rotors and four piston calipers in the front. Maintenance-free braking sounds amazing.
Spend money on decent pads and discs 👌🏻
Regen is only good if you can adjust it otherwise it's like throwing an anchor off the side of the bike while lightly braking before a slight corner
@MaNNeRz91 I have high-end brake pads, calipers, and rotors
@@David-rr4rr and you burn through pads? What speeds?
@@MaNNeRz91 it can just be from the weight of the bike. Bicycle brake pads don't have much surface area. Compared to like a motorcycle or a car. Most bicycle brake pads really aren't cut out for 30MPH speeds. And we are beginning to see ebikes like ANIIOKI (i think) where they are using giant huge 300mm rotors and 4 piston calipers that aren't traditional bicycle components
@@EBikeBuilder_ agreed but it could also be down to the pad material and even the rotor material.
I had high pad wear before I switched to floating discs and sintered pads. I also experienced bad fade before that even with the floating discs before switching to the sintered pads.
I do agree massively on the size selection we have being small.
I have always said the same as you about the size of the pads being to small for the application and should be closer to pitbike brakes on the bigger. bikes sur ron and upwards.
But that's why I tried to find the best combination of disc and pad. I've burnt through a lot of different makes. Cheap and expensive. Until the ones I have now worked better than the rest. Still quite cheap too. Even though I said buy decent pads in my original comment I didn't mean expensive. ✌🏻
Good Vid Bro , I live in a Hilly Area It would Prolly be Good for me , Only Thingy I was wondering about I would loose the Ability too Fee Wheel down hill , Is that Right? or can you still Coast down without much regen , One Day i will Try it
16.08 you answered my Question Thanks ,I never said I wasn"t Impatiant LOL Watch out for them Bees
Talking about Brake Pads Ive got too relpace my back set Last Week they Don't work no more
I tried regen for about a week and liked it but noticed my motor ran twice as hot 🔥 I'd rather replace pads over a 5k watt motor.
yeah, I have drilled 6 giant holes in each side of my G62 motor, due to the increased workload of regen, where the motor no longer has a chance to "rest" when you are coasting. But you should be able to either adjust the regen braking current, so its not braking as hard, maybe that would help with the heat?? Is it a QS205? I hear those can get quite hot. and if you want regen something like a QS273 might be more effective. You should be able to configure the regen and monitor temperatures of the motor in such a way where it shouldn't overheat or damage the motor. Vesc has a feature called Temperature Compensation where it starts to throttle your power early so that you still have some 'temperature' buffer remaining and regen braking force available. But yeah if no temp sensor I would be careful. Also gotta make sure regen charging voltage and current isnt too much for the battery cells and bms etc
Sounds like you are running a direct drive motor. Are you using Statorade and cooling fins to keep the motor cool?
@@rufusirvin5279 Yes! Another vote for Statorade and cooling fins on a Direct Drive motor. Most folks watching this know that Statorade not effective for geared hub motors (like the motor EBikeBuilder is using here).
@@NoInfoFoundi still need to try a dd hub some day 🤙 build in Regen, i like that 🎉
@rufusirvin5279 It's a 72v 5k 3t hub motor on 26x4. No cooling fins or statorade yet. I'm running with a sabvoton 72100 at maxed out settings for now. The battery is 72v 60a beast. I've already blown up a controller and a motor with this batt 😎 Running regen off the throttle or the handbrake at 33a was awesome indeed. One ride i did 35 miles of bike path with regen on and when i got home the motor was on the verge of going up in flames. Don't think that level of heat my motor was at is safe.
Great info...but please try and refrain from saying "like" so much it is annoying.
Sry m8 it’s annoying to me too Idk what my problem is tBh
It's important to know regen will damage 99% of dual battery systems.
@@KingKola_ good point if true, is that because of a diode or some other electrical component in the battery combiner that doesn’t support a reverse current flow?
@EBikeBuilder_ it's usually the combiners that don't support the back flow of electricity distribution equally.
I thinking breaking is cool
How do I know if I have a geared hub or not
If I have gears 1-5?
@@lukenorton8243 There’s different types of hub motors. Direct drive hub motors can do Regen. And geared hub motors which are commonly found on most EBikes cannot do Regen because there’s a one way clutch inside of them that allows them to freewheel and coast, but does not allow regen braking. I’ve welded the clutch assembly in my bafang geared hub motor , and I’m using a controller that supports Regen. To know if you have a geared hub motor, its a matter of identifying the motor. Bafang are geared hubs, most e-bikes are
@@EBikeBuilder_ ok thanks ya I figured due to my having gears and clearly no regen must be geared
I’ve seen people welding the clutch
Was that hard. Guess you have to open it up
Im watching this video, 10 min in im so confused what you're talking about xD
My man you start a sentence, within that sentence you start 5 different sentences, which seem to have their own subtopic xD. Worst part is, you seem to forget the first one, so you never actually finish that train of thought.
Is hard to watch but still somehow entertaining thogh^^
@@itisatrap683 😂😂
@@itisatrap683 i have many thoughts about regen 💭 spewing out of my brain 🧠 in a highly disorganized discombobulated manner
@@itisatrap683 stop by my channel after a few drinks 🍺 Bud.
Yeah thats how Tesla's work with regen